Woodturning - The Ocean Cave Vase (My LARGEST Epoxy Pour!)

well this week we've got some holes to fill lots of holes big ones too so what we have here is a piece of maple that um well there's there's a lot of holes in a lot of uh very distinctive holes holes that maybe look like something and uh anyway I've been drying this piece I think for a year and a half something like that and I think that there's a lot of figure locked up in this piece you can tell by the Ripley outside here that there's going to be some decent grain in there uh and I believe what I'm going to do with this is turn it into a hollow of form or deep vase some sort and like one of the more popular videos on my channel the lemon glitter vase not lemon glitter the purple glitter vase I think that I may end up turning it in this orientation like this and uh that should give us two really big sight glasses on each side of the hollow form which will look really cool all right so first things first uh this is covered with anchor seal as my heater turns on on both sides so I want to trim that away and then uh we'll figure out exactly what we're going to use for a casting bucket and get this rounded so it fits in it properly all right so what you're looking at here is I've tilted the the bed on the bands saw to basically match the taper of the bucket so the bucket that I'm going to use at the very bottom and you come up to say about the 10 in Mark is about a/ in So that equals about 3° on the tilt on the table that way when this piece of wood goes into that bucket it should fit tight all around the bucket and you're not going to use as much resin in theory because of the giant hole in this I was forced to just use a couple pieces of tape to hold the template down on the top of this and you know it was it wasn't really easy to figure out where to put that template I wasn't exactly sure I'm I'm trying to go for lots of sight glasses and believe it or not I am trying to limit how much resin I'm going to use here so the the placement of the of the template was actually very crucial once that was done I'm just using the brass brush in the Jacobs truck here on the lathe to clean up the surface on this piece uh it was just packed full of voids and a lot of dry rot in the center of this so you know it was it was a bit of a battle to try and clean it up so that we didn't get any floaties in the resin afterwards and here's just part of it just using a big screwdriver driver to pop off any pieces of bark on the inside cuz sure enough if you don't do this you're going to end up having a piece of bark come loose and then it's going to be in your cycl last window uh on the side of the vase and you know nobody wants that I certainly don't uh the great thing about this piece is I cut off a lot of larger pieces and we'll be able to recast them with something else okay I think we got it cleaned up pretty good uh it's a little it's not a little it's a lot hard to try and get that cleaned up on the inside but looks pretty good um just keep knocking and more stuff keeps falling out and to show you how great it is when you can tilt your band saw this is the bucket that we're going to use this a 5 gallon bucket that I've cut down and it fits in there virtually perfectly virtually perfectly uh got some we're going have a big resin pocket on this side Lots down in here man this is going to be this is going to be a lot of resin and I'm a little torn I know that um it would be wise to put some sort of a spacer down inside here to take up some room but I just don't want it to affect my design and uh there's lots of voids in this and this is going to take a ton of resin I think the first thing that I'm going to do is glue this in place I don't want to put a rock on top of this because what I my intention with this is to actually put it in the fridge to cool the resin so hopefully the epoxy so hopefully it doesn't uh thermal crack on us okay so you know I've been um working on some sort of a spacer I know that a lot of people really get upset when I don't use spacers in pieces like this so what I've done is kind of Cho this up on the band saw to make it fit uh the way that I want to but you know I need this to be deep down inside of this casting because if I turn this on its side like this after it's cast then I got to make sure that I've got this fully covered in with resin so that's got to go deep down in there but you know if I want to go the other direction with it then with it being deep down inside here it may affect the bottom side of this form and you know I see it all the time time in the comments people get upset oh I can't believe you didn't put a spacer in there but the thing is when this is made I'm hoping that this is going to be worth anywhere between $2 to $4,000 that's what the sale price on this will be when it's done so you know if I had to guess I would say that this is going to take 6 L of resin so you start calculating the cost of the resin and what it's going to sell for and then you put something like this inside of it that really is only going to you're only going to save maybe two cups of resin something like that really is it worth it is it worth having something like this down inside of the casting so you can save a few bucks and then you're limited on your design and you know in the past this is one of the reasons why I don't put stuff like this down inside so that I have free rain with this thing when it gets mounted on the lead and can make it into anything that I want to so anyway that's what I'm doing I'm ditching this I don't like it I don't I just don't see this as being something that I need in here to save a little bit on resin and I hope everybody understands that but uh please leave a comment Down Below on your thoughts on that uh works like this are expensive from me and um having this little spacer in there to save a few bus on risen doesn't make sense this week we're going to be using deep casting epoxy from designer epoxy uh this ends up being the largest pore that I've done for a lathe turning um so yeah we definitely need to use deep casting epoxy and I'm just going to put a little bit of ocean blue in this because I'm going for a water theme kind of an underwater cave theme all right here's your first liter and a half yeah we are going to need a few of these well that's 6 L I'm going to give it more one more and that's it this will bring to 7 and 1/2 L and I know that that may seem a lot and that's because uh this wood is going to soak up some of this epoxy so I need lots for it to pull from on the very top here all right uh let's do the next step and put this in the fridge man this is heavy oh that's heavy okay well uh the plan is to leave it in the in the fridge here for two to three days I'll check on it in two days to see what uh what it looks like and uh I don't know maybe even longer at this I've never had a poure this larg uh so we'll just have to see anyway I will keep you informed formed as the days go by so here's your update on this the uh it's still in the curing stage but uh this is 3 days later uh we lost power yesterday so I couldn't really show you anything and uh today let me uh let me just stick something this and show you kind of where it's at so you know I I think we're safe to put it in the pressure pot now hoping uh I don't think there's any point in Blowing them B maybe they might pop we can try that but um so far so good no thermal cracking and we're talking a casting that's 10 in deep uh I will try and pop those with the torch see if what [Music] happens not really a whole lot I did pop them anyway so as far as how long is this going to take to cure I have no idea it could be ready in a couple days it could be ready tomorrow uh I'm surprised now it looks to be a little thinner over there anyway um let's just throw this to pressure pot and again I'll keep an eye on it I'll leave it for at least a couple days and then we'll see where we're at see you then all right place your bets how do you think this is gone give you a second I think it's a success I don't see any thermal cracking on the top we' got to get this out of here and have a better look at it but early indications are that it worked and I am absolutely stoked about that wow must say it's a little dark than I thought it was going to be but once it's thinned out it'll be a lot uh the uh the blue won't be quite as intense more cat hair go figure while it's not uncommon for me to have issues getting castings out of buckets like this uh this one gave me a really good fight uh I believe the reason for that and keep in mind I only glued this at the top but at the time I didn't realize that it wasn't fully cured and I believe that that's why it was so sticky and holding on to the sides of the bucket at the time oh working up my sweat ear people well man get out right to The Bitter End I think this this one will be going into the recycling there it is no thermal cracking how do you like that wow awesome awesome awesome and 9 and 3/4 I believe when this went in there this was 10 and 1 12 Ines deep so deep cast definitely Le lives up to its name that's for sure so like I said earlier I think the way that I want to mount this on the lathe is in this orientation like this now I would love to trim this up on the Band Saw but this thing is slippery and what I mean trim it off on the band saw trim it off like this but this is very dangerous to try and hold on to yeah I could make a jig or something like that and I might still but you know it's uh it's risky it definitely is and something that you really got to be careful with when you're especially this you can't really get a good grip on it and it's smooth so that will spin into the blade and well bad things can happen from there but I got to figure out exactly where I want to put the top and the bottom I definitely want these uh top pieces here to be like side windows this is still a little soft so we're not going to be able to do anything with this today anyway needs to harden up a little bit longer it's been 3 days but with it being in the fridge I think it's kind of throwing it off a bit and we also have to account for this so really when you're looking at wood pieces this is where we're at so we need to stay Within These boundaries yeah we'll call that 8 and 3/4 I've got to think on this some more before I do this this is absolutely critical what I do here now so uh we can't do anything with this today so hopefully uh we'll be able to do uh do something with it tomorrow but I mean there's no way that it's going to Thermo crack now absolutely awesome all right so it's the next day and for fun I thought that we would waigh this to see what we're dealing with so this is 12.2 2 kg and pound is well it keeps flipping back 26.9 lb so she's a hefty one uh so I'll make sure that when I do drill this that I'll sink the uh the spur Drive in at least this far give us a little bit more security on the lathe and uh overnight I'm going to go for sure pinch it between centers like this so let's uh figure out where we're going to do that all right so yesterday I said that you know things like this are dangerous to cut on the band saw but you know I was also thinking that I need a flat spot for a bottom so you know if you trim off say 3/4 of an inch here then you know if you got a flat surface for this to sit on then of course you take a lot of the risk out of it uh the only issue that I've got is I really wanted this to be kind of the opening area at the very top here but on the other side there's an awful lot of resin at the bottom so basically this would be a lot of resin all on one side and I'm I'm not sure if I want that very undecided exed about that well I don't know it goes down into wood there too maybe we will do that the foot will be probably half resin and half wood so that's not so bad here's where our opening is going to be and basically our foot is going to be in this area right here something like that at least that will give us a flat area to put on the uh the bed of the band saw let's do that so there certainly is some risk here uh I'm fortunate enough that I can cut 12 in under the bearings on the uh the band saw here so I can cut some really deep castings so that's awesome right there is probably the biggest risk because it's not supported all that well uh right in the center there there's no issue at all as you can see I've got a little piece of offcut um Burl actually helping to support it and to keep the costume from rotating when I'm cutting it so that's kind of a little jig it was I know that some people may think this is still kind of sketchy but I think it's even sketchier to try them out this on the Lethe and Whittle it away like I did last time like I said earlier I'm just going to drill a couple of recesses in both sides of this one for the live Center and one for the drive Center that way if it comes off the lathe it doesn't actually uh you know blow through a wall or something like that because it's a heavy casting that's not bad at all I am finding that the epoxy still seems to be a little soft uh but anyway we'll uh we'll get this round anyway and then we'll go from there but it may have to wait another day I can see it kind of indenting a little bit where I've pushed it here to get this piece nice and round we're going to use the number three Hercules from Hunter tool systems again there is a link in the description to get 10% off your next order just use code inlay gy at checkout and that that goes for all of my other sponsors as well I didn't really know how this was going to pan out I in my mind I had a vision that it was going to look good uh but in the end it's actually a lot better than I thought it was going to be so uh doing a deep pour like this was really risky and you know if it had a thermal cracked like the original one that I did the first time I did one of these then you know we certainly know how to repair that but um I I'm over the moon about this piece and I hopefully you guys really like it too and you've seen it in the in the thumbnail so it's it's not like I'm I'm hiding anything from you uh so anyway the goal right now is to get rid of any of the epoxy that's ghosting that you know it's going to be sitting on top of the wood that we don't want it to see like right there and then once that's done I can determine on what exactly what shape that we're going to be going for for this piece you know every time I do one of these I I I try to come up with unique looks so this here I do not believe that we've done something similar to this and this piece was just screaming for me to do that took me a little while to get there but um in the end I really love the way that this piece looks and I hope you guys do as well here's another one of those zoomed out views that everybody likes to see uh the the benefit of having this much wood in these in this casting is the fact that you don't have the Silly String it's all wrapped around you in the spindle and then casting so um that's a bonus this time around uh it's it's it's easier to break apart when it's got pieces of wood in it and that's what it's doing so I I didn't have to shut the lathe off 100 times and and try to remove all these resin strings or epoxy strings uh so anyway while we're watching this I just want to briefly talk about last week's video and if you miss that I'll link that at the end of this video either that or I might put the first one that I did like this up I'm not I'm not sure yet but uh I didn't see it at the time and I'm referring to the um Cherry Bowl with the copper pipe and soapstone and alabaster inl and at the time i' never noticed it but there were so many comments about oh it looks like the phases of the moon inside of the copper pipe and I was like yeah it totally does so in the future I'm going to try and replicate that again but I will do the different phases of the moon in the rim so we'll see how that goes and I don't know exactly how challenging that's going to be but I'm thinking it might be well what do you think um a little disappointed in this uh basically rotten grain so we're definitely going to have to address this I just cleaned off this to make it you know a parabolic shape uh that way maybe we can look look at this and figure out exactly what we're going to do with this uh I really like this this whole area here how the resin is just basically on the edge and it be just a simple thing to clean that off and be done with it but you know I don't know like I I really like this and then it comes around and then we're going to have tons of ghosting on top of this right here so I don't know if that's going to bother me or not I like How It Ends right here so it it gives me some closure but uh ideally I think that I don't know I don't know I actually I think I'm okay with it um sight glasses on the side this is what I was talking about so we should be able to when you put a light down inside of this uh should be actually really cool and it when it shining through including onto the base cuz you know there's lots of resin here in the base uh but you know there's a lot of um torn out grain and Punky wood here that we're going to have to figure out and so I mean what are we going to do here um could just do a gentle curve up and sweep out and then call this you know open this all up and call it a vase I think that's almost too easy too simple I might do the same sort of profile and then possibly leave this upper Edge and then somehow flatten this on the inside and core it or not core it uh use the uh the captive hollowing system and take it out like this I don't know I am a little disappointed in this this is where I cut the bucket off with a knife and that is a good solid eighth of an inch deep that cut is so that kind of I was really surprised when I seen that so that hopefully is that I realize you guys probably can't even see that I'm zoom in here a little bit so yeah that's what I'm talking about right there I don't know if you're picking that up or not but it's in quite deep uh so again we might be able just to fix fix that with some epoxy or something anyway I I don't know like I'm I'm going to leave this as it is I'm going to think on it because um you only get one shot at this and I've got a fair bit of resin invested in this so you know we don't want to uh we don't want to waste it now do we my original thought you know is just rounding this off and then having a small on the top maybe you know swooped in kind of like this affair and you know that may look nice and just ditch this whole wonky edge here bucket Edge we'll call that but I don't know but tell me in the comments what you think you would do but I'm going to think on it overnight I've got lots of time on this this is I'm shooting this over kind of the Christmas holidays here so I'll be able to pick away at this and give it some thought and think about about it anyway uh we'll see you tomorrow all righty so it is uh actually 2 days after Christmas and um still very undecided what I'm going to do with the top portion of this I'm going to take away this kind of sharp corner here I'm going to give this a gradual curve going to make this base smaller as well that base is too large for me but I want to leave this upper detail and trying to keep this upper detail and not make it very similar to the last one that I did like this I'm having a bit of a bit of a struggle with so I'm going to taper it in like I did on the previous one but maybe at the top we'll do a hollow form inside of this wonky Edge anyway let's see what it looks like so I don't know if people enjoy me basically thinking out loud so um I think that we all do it when we're working on pieces like this anyway let me know in the comments if you guys like hearing me think out loud as to what direction I'm going in and why I'm going in that direction um or do you want me to just you know keep it quiet and move it move on with it uh anyway let me know in the comments what you want to see and um I can certainly do this in a voice over but you know it's uh in in the in the time or in the moment um I like to really kind of think things through and it's like I said like when you're working with pieces like this you get one shot at this when once you strip that material off there's no putting it back on it's a it's very unforgiving in that regard so you know I initially started I I turned that foot down below and that'll eventually change it up as well and then as I was cutting in the top here I'm like okay like I'm just going to take a few passes turn the lathe off have a look at it notice a gigantic hole there that must have been buried inside of that um the original casting so you know the the epoxy just couldn't get to it and I'm just going to whittle this down and Whittle this down and I'm just hoping that something really kind of jumps out at me and and says yeah this is this is what I want to be uh the the whole kind of mushroom shape was kind of playing in my head that you can kind of see on the lther now uh eventually I dropped that idea because I thought it looked too uh I don't know something you might find in Smurf land so I decided to get rid of the I'm looking at now going nah this isn't going to work so anyway let me know what you guys think about that do you do you like to hear me talk about the piece on the lath as sitting there and and the struggles that I'm going through with trying to figure out what it's telling me what it wants to be I'd appreciate that so in the end I'm I'm very pleased with the shape of this piece I I don't think that well there's probably a number of things that you could have done with this uh basically essentially turning it into a ball form with an opening on the top was certainly one that when I initially thought about doing this that was the direction that I thought I was going to go in this and then eventually as I was taking down the very top portion of this and it was just kind of really saying to me no I want to be kind of just swooped in a little bit and we'll leave that I'll call it a Bird's mouth Edge at the very top and then you know essentially we'll we'll make this a vase it's it's probably more on the almost the Hol form side of things because the opening isn't real large but uh I think that it's a really cool project and uh hopefully you guys do as well so one little bit of knowledge that I'll pass along here uh working with this top Edge the way it is is actually quite difficult to do uh it's difficult to cut clean uh because it wants to chip out badly and basically what it really boils down to is tool speed so I tried going in the direction of the tail stock towards the headstock and for those who don't know what I'm referring to the headstock is the part of the lathe that's actually driving the work and the tail stock is on the right where it's just basically supporting the work that's mounted on the lathe anyway I tried going you can actually see some chip out right there I tried going in both directions and I found this direction here to be the best but you've got to really slow down your cut as you're exiting the very top of this and I mean really slow it down as the top gets smaller in diameter it it becomes easier to do this without getting Chip out but if you're too aggressive at the very top here you'll probably rip a great big chunks of it and you'll ruin the look um that maybe you're going for and I keep forgetting that you know there are a lot of people that watch these videos just purely for enjoyment and they don't really know anything about a lathe so you know I'll briefly cover that so I'm holding the Hercules gouge or it's not well it's not a gouge it's just called a Hercules and of course it's on What's called the tool rest and the tool rest is mounted in what's called a banjo don't ask me why it's called a banjo that's what it's called and uh of course the bed of the lathe is pretty self-explanatory that's what the tail stock will slide on back and forth the headstock on my lathe does not move while there are some on the market that do this one is fixed traditionally headstocks that are fixed are more rigid and can maybe take more abuse and vibration but uh anyway I keep forgetting that we've got a bunch of people that don't know anything about turning so hopefully that helps well what do you think about a profile uh I am going to turn this into a vase I could cut down inside of here make it basically flat on the inside and then do a hollow on the inside of it and turn it into a hollow form but you know I don't see the point in doing that really but there is a whole bunch of rot in this and uh there's a few pieces missing here um we'll have to pick away at that anyway what I'm going to do is use the starbon thin to stabilize all of this Punky wood and essentially I'm going to probably saturate this thing in this glue and hopefully we'll get all of these small little holes and of course I'll use the accelerator to set it most times when I'm using Deep cast this really isn't an issue because with its long open time it has the ability to Wick into these areas in this case since it went into the fridge the I think that you know the epoxy as it was starting to cure up is not going to flow well because it's cold and I think this is one of the reasons why there was a bunch of voids left behind and a lot of um subst standard Punky rotten grain uh so anyway I used about 2 oz on this and I think it was well worth it I'm going to give that probably about 20 minutes and then we'll trim this up and do the inside and even before I had staron as a sponsor I would use a ton of glue every year I used to just basically use CA glue for for all my inlay work prior to doing resin and um I've said it in the past that I I don't know how you can be a wood turner and not use uh thin CA glue to stop crack migration to harden up Punky grain uh on the inside of this vase it becomes a bit of an issue and we'll see that later on uh and you'll also see me use some epoxy coats on this to make sure that you know we've got a really perfect surface afterwards but I think that with that epoxy being in the fridge it like I said it was so thick that it wasn't able to really migrate into those areas like it ordinarily would and of course you know the the manufacturers recommended depth of por on this is 4 in so you know we're well over twice that so I'm still I'm still very ecstatic that it worked without thermal cracking and you know I know that I've said this in the past that this epoxy I can't speak for other epox epoxies but this epoxy here you can control with temperature um we do end up with some bubbles in this and you know what I'm fine with that because I was going for an underwater theme and the bubbles actually fit right into it so ordinarily I would not like that but in this case I actually think that's very appropriate and I actually really like it there you can see I I just didn't like that foot area I figured I'm just going to swoop it in and um just clean that foot up to be quite honest with you it was just I don't know it was just having it was like another collar on the bottom and it was messing with me so it had to go as for normal my intention is to put a glue block on the bottom of this and that way I can put multiple coats of finish on this and not actually handle the work that's that's very important to me when when when I'm working with shiny finishes uh sorry about my shoulder being the way I guess you can see a bit of it there but uh I decided to move the camera after this but uh I needed a decent size Tenon because this of course is a fairly Hefty piece of wood and resin right now so we'll be able to reverse this I was having issues on the very bottom of this uh as far as lining the tail stock up because I'll take it off here and I'll show you here in a minute but I just couldn't get it to run correctly and part of the problem was that little torn up wood and epoxy in the bottom this was kind of messing with the live Center it wouldn't sit properly so I went over and just ground that off and then now it's not so much in the way anymore and I can you know kind of line it up and then lock it down now of course I get this asked this a lot like why why didn't you just cut in tendon on the very bottom this and part of the issue with that is number one you're going to take size away from the overall height of this which we don't want and um doing the multiple coats of finish you know you never have to get your hands on the work so you can put on perfect coats of finish and then cut the waist block off afterward so I was really worried about breaking this piece off I mean it's basically essentially a resin um panon that I'm using so I decided it was best to just use the 60 grit on the drill to clean off the bottom and not do any tooling after the glue set I was able to whittle this waist block down and this is an ingrain piece of actually spalted Maple from Peppermill production so it'll go to a good use and be used as an ingrain tennin with which in this case it's good and it's bad ingrain is hard to get a good bite on so with and I'm talking about with the Chuck but it's virtually impossible to break an ingrain um waste block like this is so that's the benefits to it uh but as far as getting a good grip on it sometimes that certainly can be an issue now I measured the depth of this uh my stronghold Chu you can put I think it's a half inch so I want it to be just shy of half inch so that the top of the Jaws are going to rest on the bottom of the vase there you can actually see how how much it's moved there so that's why I didn't want to do any tooling so anyway it's important that the Jaws the top of the Jaws are resting on the the base of the of this form because if they're not you're going to get lots of vibration so keep that in your in the back of your mind if you're going to start using these waste blocks that I use hot milk glue hot milk glues melted in an electric frying pan that's how I put it on and as you seen I don't Spar the volume on it at all I'd like to personally thank the new members that have joined my channel and uh that's under the membership tab I think maybe a join button and it's at the bottom of the video um so anyway it's $299 Canadian a month and for that I'm going to try and put up some extra content photos uh progress photos this kind of thing uh and you'll get to see the finished piece before it goes live on Friday and watch the video earlier too that's the plan I like to leave those real time Clips in whenever I can uh this video though was really really long I managed to sneak a couple in here but um again I think a lot of people are really surprised at how slow this is like you can't you can't push resin you can't try and cut it faster than it wants to be because if you do you're going to get massive amounts of chip out and uh well it's just going to really work against you so we're going to drill out the inside of this the outside the out side of this piece isn't completely done I knew that I had to go back and fix some areas where there's some voids where there's still some Punky grain but the CA glue did a good job wicking in deep to seal up a lot of those areas so you know my philosophy on making things like this is I rarely well I I don't think I ever have finished the outside sand it you know maybe even put a coat of finish on it uh before doing the inside side I will never do that because I see that you know if something's going to come off the lathe it's going to come off the lathe when you're hollowing and not when you're working on the outside of it as a general rule and I don't see the point in going in there finishing the outside especially if you got wheels running on it yeah I can put some tape on it over top of it but um only to have it say get destroyed on the lathe and you've lost all that time finishing the outside so I will always do the inside and then once I'm satisfied with the inside I'll move to the outside so hopefully that makes sense I just I've got enough experience under my belt that I know that bad things can happen at any moment and it's sometimes people buy things from me and I'll say well you know I'm not going to charge your credit card until it's done and we're like well why not because well you know I still probably have to put coats of finish on the bottom of it and at any time they can come off the lathe so I typically won't charge anybody's card until I know that it's completed and ready to be shipped we are all set up and ready for hollowing this is the oneway captive system I have the retrofit tool in from Hunter tool systems and that is what the laser is set at for now we'll close that up as we um achieve this wall thickness later on on all right uh hopefully be able to stay with a large boring bar because this is really deep and we're going to be getting some vibration in the bottom of it but let's see how we make [Music] out and talking about things that can go Bad Case in point would be uh Darren's bowl that I did you know that he commissioned for his mother uh that piece was done and I was doing I was doing the foot and what I I was doing I was putting multiple coats of finish on the bottom and on the second coat finish when it was on the vacuum Chuck the power went out now luckily I was using the large uh vacuum Chu that I've got and there's enough of a reservoir there that I was able to get the laad shut off and basically get my hand on it so it didn't fall off of the vacuum Chuck but that's just just an example of of what can happen at the very last minute when you think you're done and uh that has happened to me believe it or not since I've own that vacuum Chuck that is the third time that that has happened to me where the power went out and the other two cases the bowl hit the floor and it skid one one time it was actually you know was spinning so it actually skipped across the floor and it had to be redone so it's always in the back of my mind when I'm using the vacuum Chuck and I'm usually ready for it usually well here's an update uh we're about halfway in or halfway done I should say uh pretty rough going deep down inside of there uh the uh boring bar here is vibrating really bad so I think I'll switch this out to the teardrop cutter and see if that helps us out any but um since we can get in here you can see a little bit of chip out there and of course it's not real smooth right now cuz these are more or less rough and cuts anyway let's switch out the the teardrop cutter and see if it gets any better that thing is working great though I really prefer to use the teardrop cutter in the very base of uh a project such as this and in the transition area as well kind of where I'm working at now uh it also can be quite grabby uh basically The Wider The Cutting Edge then the more grabby it's going to be because it's it's contacting more surface area so in this case this is essentially a new tiar drop cutter and it's got a fairly small point on it so it doesn't tend to be um near as grabby as a lot of uh the previous teardrop cutter that I had that was ground down so far that it was actually quite a wide Point uh I think that you know maybe an improvement to the teardrop cutter would be the fact you know to put it maybe more on a 45 degree angle of some sort uh that would give you more of a shearing cut but uh when it comes to the retrofit tool and I don't know if you notice that the last clip but I switch back to it um once I get down to where I want to be thickness wise especially in the base then a lot of times I will switch back to the retrofit tool and just skim across the very base very slowly and it doesn't give you any chip out this is this is one of the knocks on the teardrop cutter it can give you lots of chip out where the retrofit tool from Hunter tool systems doesn't but it's like I said you know it's a patient game and you can't take very big bites you it's got to be slow and steady and that's what does win the race in this case it's just a few shots here of the laser and the concept of it when the laser drops off the side of the form then you know that you've achieved the wall thickness that you have set between the cutting tool and the edge of the laser right well that's it for me today that has been 7 hours straight I think I had two or three hours into it yesterday so that's how long it's taken me to get the inside of this I uh near the bottom is just I don't know how many times I'm just feeling that I'm I'm on the verge of blowing things up so anyway I'm starting to get tired and when you get tired accidents happens so we'll see you tomorrow anyway uh it's going to be a beauty if it survives see you tomorrow so this is the next day and I I've switched out to the little platform piece that I was using at the end of the day I was like man this is I I'm just I'm one one minute away from completely destroying this piece so I decided to try this tool again I I've got a LoveHate relationship with this tool rest uh one time it basically the boring bar fell off of it and um I was lucky that I didn't destroy the piece then I am constantly always checking uh the distance on the laser to make sure that it hasn't closed up you know so that you know you don't you don't end up going through the sidewall uh unexpectedly uh you can see the two cut marks on the top of that Bird's mouth opening and that shows you how soft that epoxy was I bet you those cut marks are an eighth of an inch inside of the resin area so I'll I'll definitely have to sand that out I did I tried doing some glue on it I I don't even think I bothered I knew that it wasn't going to work so I knew that I was going to have to stand that out uh I've basically got my wall thickness that I'm looking for but I need to work on the opening of this so I'm running the lathe in Reverse I've locked the Chuck onto the headstock make sure it's on there good and tight and I tried a variety of different tools and eventually ended up with the gouge that was the the easiest one to get the upper part of this V done right well there's the inside it's not exactly perfect but you know it's not too bad uh with my laser dying that kind of complicates things I still got lots of thickness uh to do here but you know after sanding the inside and trimming the outside again you know I think I'm going to leave it where it's at all right well sanding next yeah I didn't charge my laser the night before so it ended up dying on me so you know I can get about 8 hours worth worth of um laser time out of that so I'm quite happy with that so on the sanding um started with a 3 and 1 half in diple disc from sandpaper. CA but I found that uh in the end using sheet Goods as far as trying to flatten things on the inside of this vase was the way to go I did um sand The Edge I know there's going to be some people are worried about my hand being in contact with that upper Edge but I sand it around the edge so it wasn't sharp uh so I anyway I did a lot of sheet good sanding and then switch back to this extension that you see here and back to three and2 in Dipple discs and then uh I think it was saying to 180 on on the inside and the outside I might have only gone to 120 on the inside and then you'll see me sanding the outside of this piece too and and so I want to do an epoxy coat on the inside and the outside of this piece mainly just because of some soft grain that's on the inside of this vase that I really haven't been able to get to so it's important to sand before you do any epoxy coating because that will open up the pores of the wood and that will allow the epoxy to weep into the wood because you know I I want the wood to be sealed and I also want these fine little cracks and any little bubbles that are left behind to be filled as well all right well I was going to do an epoxy coat on this piece anyway but uh I was going to sand to about 180 and then do it right down in there you can see the Shadow line we've hit a soft spot so I need to harden that up with the epoxy before we do any more sanding the other thing is this I don't even know what that is that's where the wheels were running uh this one up here looked to be very similar and I was able to sand that one out but this one here looks like it goes in at least qu of an inch in so I don't know I don't know what we're going to do there it may have to stay uh but you know there's still some small little holes here and there uh still got some Punky grain to deal with so you know giv this a coat of pro series inside and out and then letting that Pro Series sit in this area right down in here I think is going to do that a wealth of good and then uh maybe we'll give another triming tomorrow and then sand it and put the finish on anyway uh I've never encountered this before it's definitely strange it's like it's twisted or something could be thermal cracking too that we've just never seen all right boxy coat coming up so like I said we're going to use the pro series here and the pro series is actually designed for this it's it's a top coat finish but it's nice and thin so you know it will penetrate deeply into the wood as long as you can keep feeding it and uh in this case it's a little tough for me to harden up those areas because of where they're sitting uh I'm not overly concerned about how much I'm putting on I do try and rub it into that um cut mark on the top of the bird's mouth but I can see immediately that it's not going to work so you know I'll have to sand that out in the future but it's not really that big of a deal I am using my gloved hand and that will allow me to push that epoxy down into those little Punky areas and fill in any voids that there as well but uh man does that thing ever come alive when the first coat finish goes onto it just like I always say the best part that's an idea what's going to look like this here is still a thing I am hoping that I'm going to be able to turn that away tomorrow still lots of air coming out of it I'm sure this thing is going to look terrible tomorrow um I'm just going to stay out here keep burning bubbles off if I see any dry spots in the wood I'll reapply the uh the epoxy but other than that we'll see you guys tomorrow what do you think okay it is the next day I'm going to try and show this before I put it on here but if I can get the shine to be good here's this piece I was talking about yesterday and you know my my priority is to get rid of this we've got a good epoxy coat on this filled in a lot of holes uh we'll have to redo the inside I will say that with this being in the fridge for as long as it is as it was there's lots of tiny little bubbles in it which kind of adds to the ocean theme to be honest with you but uh my main focus is getting rid of this I'm going to forego the uh steady rest and tail stock let's hope that's not a a problem and I can feel it too and it the wheels had to cause this cuz this is where the wheels were running so I am going to have to hollow the inside of this again I want to try and delete that little area in there so when this time when I run the wheels I'm going to try and run them pretty much just on the wood here and hopefully that won't happen so I've used that steady rest a number of times and I've never encountered that issue before uh the only thing that I can think is when we initially were doing it that maybe it wasn't to its Harden State enough to be using the wheels on it cuz the wheels will generate heat as this thing is spinning so you know that's probably where that comes from and I think that I probably took about an eighth of an inch off it or so and it deleted it and I was just I was really really concerned about that because I didn't see it before and I I just didn't think that you know it was thermal cracking as you see in that 60 grit PSA uh stick on disc you get those again from sandpaper. CA and it actually worked quite well uh you don't have to have such a death grip on it and I do you know like I said earlier I find it's best to go in that direction make it as flat as you can on the inside and then switch back with three and a half inch dimple discs and um there's the very top and I decided I got to sand this out because there just no way that I can get the epoxy in there and it's it's just not taking it so it wasn't really that big of a deal to be quite honest with you okay I'm going to do another epoxy coat with the pro series again to help us with bubbles and Punky grain I figured that doing a second coat of the epoxy was the way to go um if you're curious that is a barbecue a silicone barbecue brush that I'm using to apply that for the new people and uh anyway I think that this was the best direction to go in to give us a fighting chance to get this done in time for this Friday well we're getting as many bubbles as I can burn off so I think they're fighting a losing battle there anyway I'll keep an eye on this a little bit longer and uh we'll see you tomorrow tomorrow we're going to sand this back again but this time we're not going to be doing any tooling we're just going to do some sanding and then we'll get to our first coat of waterlux um I think this thing's awesome it's just I love this upper Edge um I just wish that it wasn't fighting me so bad CU it's definitely doing that anyway we will see you tomorrow so this is the next day uh I figured that I wouldn't show the sanding of this again I didn't see the point uh this is the Triple E buffing compound so I'm buffing this back uh even though camera won't focus and um we'll be able to get an next quod to finish on this piece but one thing that's important this time around is to make sure to use the denatured alcohol to get rid of in all of that buffing compound because if you don't it certainly can affect the finish that you put on over top of that epoxy coat all right this is the first coat of waterlux gloss I'll show the inside first it is not perfect in there got uh some soft wood in in there so's some little divots inside very tough to uh work on this challenging piece that is for sure uh just those sight glasses the windows are awesome spalted Maple little bit of burl action happening this here is old bug passageways that have been filled in with the resin very very cool and the bubbles make it seem like it's water see them pretty darn nice I love it what do you think is this number one it's got to be in the top three that's for sure sweet all right see you tomorrow for second coat well good morning um I must say the water Lo looks pretty nice on the Outside Inside not so much certainly a lot duller on the inside so we'll do another coat on the inside and another one on the outside and hopefully that'll be it to prep the surface on the inside I'm using 60 Steel wall probably could have got away with 40 steel wo I wasn't about to do any more sanding because I just tired of sanding at this point and uh when that's done I buff the outside again with a triple buffing compound and then once that's done clean it up with the denatured alcohol to get it ready for its next coat finish so important do not skip this step uh you can use isopropanol alcohol as another uh alcohol you can use if you can't get the denatured stuff all right this is the second coat of waterlux gloss I keep getting asked if I use any sealers prior to this and if I was I would show them on here I just use the Straight gloss uh waterlux I don't do anything what you see is how I finish these pieces I'm not hiding anything from you I do take my time putting on the last coat of finish though so it's perfect oh yeah this thing's so big I can barely get it on the camera here H really cool man I just I'm really loving this piece that area right there with the kind of the two windows uh the bubbles are a happy accident looks a lot like water to me and we let me know in the comments what you think beautiful beautiful piece and I love the wavy Edge on the top well if there's a third coat which I don't think there's going to be I'll do it the same as this one and other than that see you want to do in the bottom let me know what you think about this beauty so after two coats of the waterlux I'm relatively happy with the surface so onto the vacuum Chuck it goes and again I get this the complete vacuum chucking system from oneway.cab bll gouge and Whittle down this waist block and the glue that's holding it on there I do find that it can clog up the Hercules cutter that mostly the hot milk glue so I try to strip that off before I end up switching over to the Hercules there it is there and I decided to make a little uh recess on the bottom of this a mortise uh something that I don't usually do but all of my Bowls do have a concave surface on the very bottom so they sit nice and flat on any flat surface right well that's going to do it for the video thanks for watching I really do appreciate it let's have a last little chat about this beautiful vase well here we go what do you think about this I love it absolutely love it uh the wood is very busy little cave underwater caves got a lot happening in it too got some bug passages that have been filled in with the resin this so shiny and uh what else we got here little portal there inside the vase got some really nice Burly grain near the bottom bom here and uh I mean overall it's just lots of spalting in this piece as well and this detail the bird's mouth detail I really dig it I would love to do a lot more pieces like this uh here is the very bottom and as per normal there's no finish cuz I'm running out of time even though this was over the holidays I took a few days off um I can't remember what the weight was almost 28 lb was that what it was anyway now it's 3.6 lb that's what it weighs and that is 1.65 kg so big difference in the weight in this piece I will put the metric conversion up on the screen but at its widest point it's a little hard to measure but I think it's 7 1/2 in across and 9 1/2 in tall to the highest wings here and it's around a/2 in thick somewhere around there uh I really love this piece and hopefully the new owner does as well and this piece is for sale if you are curious about it about the price please send me an email to sprag wood turning at gmail.com and I will disclose the price then in case this is a gift um but uh it's a beautiful beautiful vase and I put it near the top of the things I've made so far it's going to look really nice when it's slit up don't forget to put designer poxy in the comments down below to be entered into the next giveaway at 115,000 subscribers when we get there and of course that is only for Continental USA and Canada and along with that if you use my code inlay gy at check out with designer epoxy you're going to get 10% off your order Gabriel tells me that he's given out 10 free color bags or more and uh free shipping within Continental USA and Canada so it's a great deal if you've been waiting to try designer epoxy Now's the Time uh same goes with my other sponsors down in the description down below head on down there and uh click on those links and put some money back in your pocket next week we're going to be doing uh I think it's going to be a vase of some sort could be a hollow form you know how it is with me I don't really know and um we're going to be using some shavings uh resin shavings and I'm also going to show you what you can do with uh resin block pores so hey anyway that'll be next week I I think that it's a cool concept but of course we'll have to see but uh that's next week uh what else is there Eric Hill has sent me should say Eric Hill has sent me two moisture meters to try out so I'm going to use these for a while and give them some feedback and I'll tell you guys about these as well so you know I I'm not going to endorse any products on this channel unless I believe in them so I told them that I want to use them for a little while H but anyway I'll get back to you and them on these and we'll uh we'll go from there all right well that's it take care stay safe don't forget the Bell please share my videos with your friends even if they are extremely long like this one is today and uh hopefully we'll see you next week and for another cool project see you then [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Sprague Woodturning

Views: 524,740

Keywords: resin, maple, resin art, epoxy, woodworking, wood turning, woodturning, petawawa, ottawa, hunter tool systems, designer epoxy, starbond, sandpaper.ca, resin casting

Id: RMhdlRDtr84

Length: 74min 14sec (4454 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 05 2024