Making a 2 x 48 Belt Sander pt 1 Tips #510 tubalcain

hello once again is mr. Pete welcome back to the shop and today I am embarking on a new project and this will be a multi-part video I'm not sure how many but the video will be on the building of a tool by 48 inch belt sander band sander and it'll be based pretty much on the design of the Kalamazoo I have two of these also there's some similarities between what I'm going to do and the Dayton sander and there's a recent video on me repairing this so check that out as well now both of these Sanders use an electric motor and one of the wheels is mounted on the motor so it's possible you could use a motor and belt drive it but you'd have to have a chef so I think this is the easiest way it eliminates parts but you do have to come up with your own motor if you're to build one of this design and I'm also going to make the wheels and that'll be the subject mainly of this video as well as just an introduction to what I'm doing both of these Sanders can be used in the horizontal position like this as well as the vertical position I far prefer the vertical position but of course that's up to you and the job that you're performing at that time now let me break this down just a little bit into what the two different Sanders look like here and the way they built the wheels of the way I'm going to make my wheels my preference here is for the the Kalamazoo based on a belt or a motor now the Dayton is a much cheaper model I don't know if they still make this or not but notice that it uses an open frame motor that allows the grit to get in there and that was the subject of the previous video because this motor was all gunked up and needed repair it uses the 2 by 48 belt it does not have a switch whereas this one has a built-in switch so you just see that this is not as deluxe a model as the Kalamazoo now the Kalamazoo is not a cheap sander I think it's probably 250 or 300 dollars the Dayton is based on stamped sheet metal wheels a rather large one on the bottom about a six-inch ER and then a smaller one on the top and pretty much composed of stampings these wheels cannot really be balanced very well because they're just a stamping rather than machined and it does vibrate it is a useful sander but it's it has its limitations I much prefer as I said the Kalamazoo now the Kalamazoo uses in this case kind of a rubberized wheel on the bottom and they use two different size wheels well of course they do over here or two so this is about a four inch and I think this is a three and a half I don't know why they use different diameters notice that the top one has two ball bearings and the bottom on a course of mounted directly on the motor shaft they both use a rather similar tool rest this one is completely guarded I believe this is an older model because they didn't even provide the top guard but that would be easy enough to make tracking of the belt is always a problem on any sander and since this is all inaccurate stampings they have decided to track the belt by just a mechanism here where you're moving screws in and out and and bringing things into alignment they use a different system on the Kalamazoo and that is the system that I'm going to use and I'll just talk more about this down in the basement because that I'll cover that really when when I make the parts but it is the tracking system is totally different and it is done by tilting the wheel really from left to right the top wheel only this Baldur motor of course is totally enclosed and fan-cooled as 3450 and it's it's really a great motor it can be mounted in this manner or I think they call this an F frame I'm going to design and build mine off of the flange mounts here rather than as a separate unit as you can see this framework here is not even touching the motor where I'm going to mount it directly onto the motor this motor is 1750 rpm and they're getting a little bit higher speed here by using a large wheel and I don't know offhand what they feet-per-minute is but it would be easy enough to calculate but quite dissimilarly this one is a 34 50 rpm with about a what are they say four and a half or five inch wheel here so I believe it runs at a higher speed and you can base your design on whatever motor is available either a 1750 or 3450 and that's what I'm doing I'm using a motor that I had here in the shop I'm not buying one note that this upper wheel on the Kalamazoo is plastic there is no tire on it has two bearings in it but the other one that I have down on the basement has an aluminum cast wheel and it has been machined this one required no machining so it would have been cheaper to make mine will both have cast aluminum wheels top and bottom as I said my design will be flange mounted type of motor but if you use a regular motor like this and try to find a capacitor start as well but using two plates of steel and probably a little bit bigger than this you can mount the motor on this like that and then the other piece here will be welded and cut this to size whatever is necessary and a rather large hole right here through which the shaft and even this part of the casting can protrude and then the wheel mounted directly on there and then this plate will serve as a basis to mount your vertical members so that's how I would go about it if you're gonna use this type of motor which is probably much more common one and a half horsepower is really too powerful I'm just showing you that because that is the kind of a motor that I have available right here on the bench now what I'm gonna do is go down into the basement and start talking about what I have done so far and I've already built a prototype so I will show you that and then start talking about the wheels and since I'm casting them in my old home foundry from 3d printed patterns it may be different than the way you're going to do it because you probably do not have a home foundry but you could machine the wheels from solid stock or you could even probably buy wheels but then you're getting into to great expense and probably not that many people are gonna build this yes this is really an entertaining type of video on how I am doing it because in fact I don't even need one of these centers I already have three of them I mean the basement shop obviously and here is the prototype and I've been working on this on and off for several weeks so I've jumped ahead here I realize but I wanted to show you what my finished version of this it looks like and of course you could certainly modify this matter of fact I'll probably modify it a little bit as I do with a build because I'm essentially going to rebuild this for you in this video but notice that I have a Lumina meal and it's been so long since I did this I have to remeasure their wheels I forgot what they were so this bottom one is five inch more or less the top one is four inch now why Kalamazoo made two different sized wheels I don't know because I did try to get this surface here vertical which means that the poster has to be a little bit off-center this wheel again mounted directly to the motor shaft and I it's keyed and there's a set screw that you can see and then I even put a bolt into a drilled and tapped hole so this wheel absolutely cannot move the upper shaft is one half inch diameter there are two ball bearings in in this wheel and we got a platen here a tool rest again it's mounted on a belter 3450 motor I do intend to put a switch here it really a switches absolutely essentially I had one in stock so at some point I'll mount that switch I think they'll be room in here so that it will be similar to this belt or motor over here the entire unit probably should be bolted to a board or some other type of base and I'll show you what I have in mind later on but this is the plate here and it's about 3/16 thick that is mounted directly by four bolts into the flange of the motor and then the platon bolted on to that and the vertical post there's a spring in here that provides the tension and the tracking is achieved here by loosening this bolt and this can rotate probably about ten degrees in either direction I'll probably put a spacer in here this of course will be cut off and I'll think about the guards and all of that safety guards later on I haven't gotten that far but it is a good running machine so I think I'll take it for a little test right here and then I'll get actually started with the project I know I've been blabbing a lot but this is the introduction to this this video and this project you can skip through things that are too boring by running your video at one and a half or two times regular speed alright you can see it humming is right along a little vibration but not too bad it's not walking around but it should be mounted down since its work pretty well make sure you wear glasses when they use something like this I may be repeating myself sometimes because some of the footage was shot a long long time ago so I forget what I have said but here are the 3d printed patterns and these were done for me again by Kevin Peterson it's a split pattern this is the large wheel it's a smaller hub because again that is drilled and mounted directly onto the motor which is a 5/8 shaft so that'll be keyed as well rimmed and keyed this is the upper wheel and I did change the design originally with a hole that was not cord there's just a lot more to drill and bore and then I added the core prints here and that's mentioned and the other clip here and that gives me a cord hole that is less likely to shrink and less material to remove less machining and originally I bought bearings that would be for a 5/8 shaft that would have mounted like that but I have changed my mind and those are half-inch bore and these are real cheap I think that they were about not think they were $6.99 including shipping alright now I'm going to another few clips here that were done several weeks ago and that is regarding actually molding these casting them and and producing these look sure of course here are already done and then in the following video I will do the machining of the two wheels because of course these wheels have to be crowned I've done that in other videos but that means that they're they're tapered in both direction and that is what allows a belt to track and not to come off of a wheel so let's go to that other video material now and see what I did here out in the foundry and I'm not gonna dwell on that because the video is already too long anyway I'm not sure this video is necessary it's another casting a video but in and this will all be tied together here eventually as I work through a project I might be getting ahead of myself but I'm casting up these wheels and you know Kevin Pietersen made these patterns for me and I've already got what five of these wheels and there's two different versions here now there are there's one here with a smaller hub and by the way these will all be used as I make a belt sander like this a 2 by 48 and the upper bearing here has or the upper wheel has two bearings the lower one is mounted directly on the motor shaft sole regarding these castings of this larger wheel with the smaller hub will mount on the motor shaft as I just said these are rough castings not turned on yet they're almost hot I just made them and I'm making a couple more but I want to talk a bit about the larger one here and that turned out fine matter of fact I got three of them here that that are just fine but no foundry would make these this way for two reasons first of all is it's so thick here that shrinkage could be a big problem it isn't a problem with me because of the way I put the razor in it but now in order to drill and bore a relatively large hole in there that will accommodate bearings that say that's a lot of material to remove so I decided to attempt to cast another one with a core and a sole I'm going about it in an unorthodox manner so let me talk about that and see what you think and if this is a failure of course you never will see this video so this is what the 3d printed pattern looked like originally there was a center hole here I have since drilled at quarter-inch and since I'm going to the core I need a core print so I real quickly turned two of these other about inch in diameter here at the small end you can see it's tapered I already have the other one in place here but I think most of you are familiar with it what a core print is a core print is simply a projection or an addition to a pattern that will allow you or allow me to set a core in place now this is going to be a vertical core and naturally I don't want to make a core box and all the work associated with that for really one or two castings so how am I gonna go about doing is this and that's why I say it might be a failure so I put a double core print on there and what I'm going to use for a core is simply this 1 inch aluminum tubing thin-walled and I cut off a piece I guess it was two and three eighths and I have it packed with sand with foundries and see that now it would be nice if I could preheat this because this is chill that it will cause the middle to chill but the whole idea here is that probably the molten metal will not melt this more likely it won't even if it did it probably won't matter as long as the sand is held in place and then ultimately the sand knocked out of the casting and then it is ready to drill and bore or whatever the operation is that gives me a hole in there of course that is 1 inch in diameter even though I need about one 3/8 but it also reduces the need for a riser here in the middle at least in my experience so there will be no shrinkage here see if a riser wasn't used here in the middle more than likely there would be a big sinkhole so that's the purpose of that that riser and then it was gated here off to the side I showed some pictures of that on Instagram but I don't think I have any castings to show you no so alright with all of that being said let's go on out to the molding bench and I'll show you how I got that set up I already made the mold and I am ready to cast it see you in a minute Here I am at the molding bench and I already had closed the mold and this is in fact ready to pour and that's when I decided well I might as well go ahead and show this before I pour it and then again after I pour the metal then I'll I'll show it to you when I open it to see if it's successful so let me open this for you the core is already set there's a couple other castings in here too for one of my little vices but you can see that the core is set in place it's a vertical core and yes it's going to rattle around in there a little bit because it's not tapered it's not truly the size and dimensions of the core print because if it was a sand core made in a core box of it would be tapered and that would hold it in position a little bit better but I don't think it's gonna be a problem because it's gonna be bored off much larger but but this is what it looks like now so I'm gonna go ahead and close the mold and fire up the furnace and I'll talk to you again in about 60 minutes all right it has been about an hour let's see what we got here at this point it looks okay let me poke the sand out of here let me cool it off and take it down on the bench and we'll see what it looks like I think it's good what I've been doing is making up a lot of castings because once winter comes I can't make any castings till April all right enough on that and a little draw so I have extra jaws and the various sizes well this was if I dare say so myself a resounding success just with a singular sprue and no riser I know that some of the old-timers that are far more talented along this line that may are cringing at some of my techniques but it works for me now others have asked why don't I vent because with a little wire I have never had a problem with with venting remember the sand is very porous and permeable as I guess the word they like to use a lot of the gases can escape now with cast iron probably not and with water base and probably not because steam forms it has to escape but not so with the petrol mounts and so this is what I have compared to this reduces the weight boy these are heavy castex I do not know what I was thinking or why I specified different wall thicknesses to Kevin when he made this but this is one heck of a heavy casting even compared to this I didn't weigh them yet but I guess it doesn't matter I'm just pointing that out now how will I remove there well I will saw it off flush just with a hand axe on both sides and then just bore that out as I proceeded to borrow it for the bearings and I'm going to use these are 5/8 bore bearings I ordered 1/2 inch that reduces the outside diameter a little bit as well so that's probably or that is the road I'm gonna go those are in the mail and yes I could have had kevin produced this in 3d printed it print it but I did not think of it I just didn't think of it so that's why I ended up making these out of a wood dowel and it you know it only took me about 15 minutes to do the both of them with the taper and everything everything so it was no big deal however that makes this thick enough to where I almost had to use a thicker foundry flask instead of a 3-inch but I did a three-inch did work but this guy too awfully close to the top well I cut those off so I can't show you that but let's say that a company was going to make thousands of these a hundred thousand how much easier would it be to use a core and bore that out than to start from scratch like this and have to drill that out by the thousands and also it uses less metal and as I pointed out shrinkage is the big factor as far as I'm concerned I'm just trying to show you different ways of doing things and that about concludes this I beat the subject to death and talk too much and you will see this later in the winter as I go ahead and try to make this this Bell Center unless it's a failure and then of course I have to make my prototype if it's a failure you know I bear in mind mistakes you'll never see them that's why some people think I'm a good machinist because I don't show I don't have to make any mistakes well I make mistakes I don't show them alright I hope you like that out in the foundry so that concludes this first part of the video I've got plenty of wheels cast up and as you can see there were two more that are already machine so in the following video as I said I will drill bar well let's see put a keyway on just all the different operations to make these into finished wheels that are ready to go onto the motor this is to blue cane sayings so long for now and I'll see you in the next part of this video series you

Channel: mrpete222

Views: 35,188

Rating: 4.9408865 out of 5

Keywords: abrasive belt sander, delta sander, kalamazoo belt sander, knifemaker abrasive, knife maker belt sander

Id: nBHOJbtqL7Y

Length: 25min 21sec (1521 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 28 2018