Main Spindle Gear - A Design Change You Are Going to Like !!!

hey guys joe pie here at advanced innovations welcome back to the shop you know the one good thing about this kit and there are many good things but the one the one good thing about this kit is there are so many pieces in this kit that if you run across one on a print you know one of these god knows how many 133 actually and it scares you well then don't do it move on however when you get towards the end of the build you're going to have a very short list of a bunch of pieces and they're all going to scare you and this is one of them right here this headstock gear is the houdini of pieces on this model this is one of those features and i'm talking about this oblique hole right here it's a 172 hole this one up here is like the little bull pin so that you can engage the cone pulley but this one right here is the one that locks it onto the spindle if that hole doesn't pop out exactly in the center of that 125 thickness you're in for a world of hurt and as you can see it just says 35 degree reference to clear rim that's great it should also say can't break out the back can't interfere with the undercut in here and many other things that are going to make you want to pull your hair out so that being said c note one fit at assembly right probably this is what we got to do or let's just say this is what i'm going to do this is the spindle for this little lathe this is 17 4 stainless made this last night and it's just straight up turning so i didn't figure it was worth filming but there it is and yes the nose is tapered there you go and for those of you that say gee i wish it was solid or hollow it is hollow so you can make long material you can turn extremely long shafts with this little machine anyway the problem here the problem that i see and it shouldn't be much of a problem so once you have the cone pulley on this thing you have an eighth of an inch worth of space to fit a gear made from this material in that slot these have to spin independently only because when it's in back gear they're screwed together when they're not in back gear it's a direct drive setup excuse me it's the other way around when it's in back here it's not touching when it whatever what i got to do is i have to figure out a way to make a wider gear and fit it right there because i want more room at the bottom where that set screw breaks through at the angle i do not want to hit this cone pulley if you do it'll lock them together and it will completely defeat the purpose of that assembly these two this gear and this cone pulley must spin independently when asked to so here's what i'm going to do i'm going to set this cone pulley back up in the machine and i'm going to knock the center out of it i'm going to put a large counter board right here right in the middle maybe 150 200 deep and when it comes time to turn the gear i'm going to put a collar on the gear a hub and that hub is going to fit down inside of that recess that will allow me a greater land area so that when the oblique set screw comes through i have a tremendous amount of bite and the chance of that gear kicking is reduced considerably and it should be a whole lot easier to hit that too so the first thing i'm going to do is put this in the machine pick some arbitrary number clamp on this diameter right here this is a three quarter diameter i will clamp on that indicate this indicate the face make sure everything is honky dory and i'm going to knock this center out with a small boring bar until it's just some random size because size doesn't matter on this all right let's get over to the lathe i will make some notes i will make some chips and i will make this work check off one of them things that scares you just for sake of showing you the spindle because this came out really nice let's do that and because of that assembly sequence that you just watched if you were to key this gear with any type of keyway square round half round pin woodruff key whatever it would have to be slotted full length or you'd never get it together this is a very unique little setup i made a brass washer for the back of the spindle i increased the diameter of this so it's the same size as the back of the chuck and the back of the faceplate and when this is held tight that spins nice and when it's not held tight this spins nice as well okay let's pop this guy into a three-quarter collet make a big counter bore in it keep fingers crossed as it doesn't uh change anything i don't think it will let's do it and just to keep my promise i do apologize sometimes parts get edited out that i am unaware of this is the o80 diameter solid carbide boring bar that i bored the taper in the nose of the spindle and the tail stock width and when i say oh 80 that's two millimeters in diameter let's zoom in on that for a second that's even too small to focus on this is a 1.5 millimeter oh 62 diameter piece of wire so you can see how small that really is this bar is actually probably smaller than two millimeters or o eighty but that is the smallest diameter hole that it's recommended to bore and i have this exact same style boring bar all the way down to o25 and i'll tell you the hardest part of using the o25 diameter boron bar is setting it on center and making sure that it's clocked this way so that it performs as it should anyway there it is guys that is officially what an 080 boring bar looks like now we can do the parts this recess in the end of the cone pulley is going to be 480 in diameter and about a quarter of an inch deep and that means absolutely nothing they are not specific sizes at all i'm going to use all the surfaces on this as banking surfaces because it's got no bearing on the final outcome all the work is done by the gear here we go so so thank you it's yes i will go back over this and polish this out it's also a real good test to see whether or not the parts that you press together are truly a press fit that boring bar gets a hold of it if it's not a good press fit it's going to move there you go no movement no problem now the hub of the gear can go down in there and i have a whole lot more meat to work with the center of this material does have the 188 required bore from a previous gear production operation so all i needed to do was indicate the face to make sure it was running true re-check the center hole to make sure it was running true and now i can turn the hub on it and part it off to size the advantage of having the hub on is if the gear is too thick you don't have to worry too much about facing it down you'll have a hub to grab a hold of and you'll have more room for that set screw to break through so let's do that so no you'll never know it's there all right quick dimensional check of the actual headstock itself for the width dimension on this i will be right back i think you can see the advantage that a nice sharp high speed steel tool will give you plunging across those teeth burrs are absolutely non-existent and love it partnered off at 126 wide on the big side and then i'll clean it up on some emery and check it on the headstock let's do it this is the final result and i think you can see the benefit to having a wider footprint if you're going to have a screw coming in from the front now you have two options right now and i may exercise one of them they tell you to put a tree pan in the front of this so that you can start your tapped hole in there and come in at an angle well the rejection is going to be a linear movement and i'm just kind of struggling with that so let's take a look at the assembly there's about 10 hours of clearance in there a quarter of a millimeter and it fits nicely in the headstock casting itself now you can see how this has to spin independently of this has to be able to do that it's really important there is a very good possibility and i mean a very good possibility that i may actually drill a small hole in the crown of the larger diameter pulley so that i can sneak an allen wrench through it thusly and tighten up the set screw that will be perpendicular to the shaft that would keep everything nice and straight i'm struggling with that thought because i just don't want to violate the od of this but being small like it is and being on the crown of the pulley it should not affect the belt tracking spindle does have the taper in it for precision between center work so i think i'm going to sleep on that i'm going to struggle with that overnight and figure out this may be a two-day video although it doesn't need to be i'm going to sleep on that i am going to put the bull pin hole in it threaded hole of course and just mess around with this dimension right here and see how that looks the hole could easily go on the top of the crown not hurt a thing so far i like to change the setup for drilling the set screw hole that is going to act like the bull pin is relatively simple i have my gear up on a pair of aluminum risers held down with my little toe clamps that i use and i'm going to indicate the center hole because that's the important feature on this the important dimension on this part so as soon as i drill and tap and the reason i didn't do this in a collet well i just wanted to make sure that i could get the tap all the way through [Music] once the pilot hole was drilled so we'll set up drill and tap a 172 set screw hole on location and then i will show you the decision that i made for this particular extended hub on this gear i think you'll like it [Applause] so so pay extremely close attention to the body of the tap versus the knurled handle and watch the twist in this area take a look at the resistance [Music] that that brass is putting on this tap that spongy feeling is just something that's so uncomfortable you just gotta go with your gut when you feel it if you don't like the way it feels change the tap check the size of the tap drill make sure that you have sufficient lubrication on that tap i'm going to change to another tab i just don't like the resistance anytime you're going to pick up a hole that's already got a thread started in it turn it backwards until you feel a little gentle click i just felt it that means the leads are lined up and the chances of cross threading it are slim to none and this one here feels about a hundred percent better so i'm just gonna go with it this is the bull pin and the thickness of that gear has to be thicker than the length of the set screw you're going to put in this hole where something's going to go slap slap slap when you turn it on so make sure that if this is a 1a thick gear that you use something shorter than that for whatever device you stick in here i'm using a 330 seconds 172 set screw all right take it out clean it up and show you the decision on the cone pulley after some careful consideration i have decided i am going to drill through the dome on the large diameter cone pulley and go straight down through the side here now the original screw that they give you in the kit is this little mouse turd looking thing right here this is a 3 30 seconds long at 0.93 that's about two and a quarter millimeters long and the hub that i put on this gear will consume the entire screw which is good that's exactly what i wanted this will go down through this bite into the spindle and i will put a flat on that spindle at a later time once i've identified where it goes this particular threaded hole that i just put in here acts as full pin to line up with that detent in the cone pulley so when it's engaged one drives the other or one is impaired by the other whatever but you can see that they do hit now when that hole is put in here it does not have to be the size of the set screw which is good it only has to be the size of the key so it's going to be a very small hole i will install the set screw in the side of the pulley assemble the pulley as such place it put the spindle in come down through the cone pulley and tighten the drive gear onto the spindle that's about the only way to do it that i can see just didn't feel good about coming in at an oblique angle and trusting the fact that that set screw was going to end up coming out in that area right there inside the pulley just not going to take that chance i think this is a better way to go and it shouldn't be all that hard to do so let's set it up easier said than done right so the guy here is really small there we go set it up put a threaded hole in there all right it's going pulley tight and just for sake of reference to locate the bull pin hole since it's going to be blind when this gear is installed i'm going to put the access hole for the locking screw in at 90 degrees to the bullpen and i will use that as a reference a visual reference when looking for that should i need it at least i have something to go by and i don't have to scuff up the front of this looking for a pressure difference i'll set it up that's in a really small hole one millimeter hole coming through there very straightforward drilling operation i am coming in exactly half of the thickness of this back elevation on center edge find the center of this pin and it is a 1.2 millimeter hole i'm putting in there just to allow the allen key to sleep through and find the set screw so all right let's clean it up take a good look at how it works let's take a look at the results here approximately 90 degrees from the bull pin hole we have a 1.2 millimeter hole that goes through one side only center of the dome on the brass drive gear itself this particular 172 hole is 2 print and it matches the hole in the cone pulley placement wise this particular hole on the side is 125 from the inside out which is half of the thickness of this right here and if everything lined up i should be able to drop an allen key through this hole on the side and have it go all the way through there we go let's see if we can put something together here now remember if you're going to do this there are really no dimensions on this but the screw that you're going to use make sure it's consumed inside this boss right here this diameter on the inside of the cone pulley can be much larger it means nothing just don't take away the material needed for the drive hole so and that is just like nothing i'm used to working with recently anyway okay i will take its subsurface and that should be subsurface to this diameter and the inside so it doesn't exist assemble it i'm going to use the gauge pin so i don't have any opportunity to scratch up the spindle i don't want to scratch that spindle up until i absolutely have to see that they are currently independent and this should be somewhere in the area where that pin is so let's see if we can find it there we go now if all went well these two should spin independently when i pull this out which they do this gear will always drive the spindle and only when you put the bull pin screw in and engage the cone pulley will the back gear mechanism be effective so that's my fix guys that's all i'm gonna do to that this still spins really nice i have exactly what i want everything's nice and straight spins very freely and yeah i don't think that's gonna i don't think that's gonna hurt the belt tracking or performance in the least and you can blame on it what you want you just say it's an oil hole if anybody asks right but remember in the world of surgical instrument design and that's where i'm from when you put a hole in to allow an instrument to be lubricated or cleaned you also allow dirt and grime to get in so be very generous or conservative with features like that if oil can get in then dirt can get in so be careful about that anyway that's all i got i think we're getting a little bit closer than we were i am very pleased with this guy right here i think that's a great fix if you have one of these kits you might want to try it thank you very much for watching joe pie advanced innovations in austin texas i'm out you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 22,770

Rating: 4.9858718 out of 5

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, Pm Research, EL-1, Miniature lathe, miniature machining, scale models, learn to machine

Id: G1gCOwqepoE

Length: 31min 47sec (1907 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 08 2021