Have You Ever Seen a Lathe Tail Stock, This Small ???

the next sub-assembly i will attack is the tail stock it just looks like a lot of fun and i think i've got some of these pieces already complete seeing that we have a drive handle here with the square hole in the center and it is very similar to find it there you go right here i'm going to do these both at the same time well not at the same time but in the same general time frame because they're very similar clean them up drill a couple of holes in them this guy is already made from a previous video it's the 100 square drive the casting itself is a fairly nice little casting so we're going to turn that into that i may take some creative liberties with the way this locks they're asking for a one-thirty second split across the back and up the side so that the whole thing flexes like a like like a split clamp not sure i'm going to go that route i'm going to know when i get there i would like to drop a slug in there that's split and have the slug come together and pinch this guy right here since we already have a spot for it instead of actually adjusting the casting just maybe add a couple pieces there's the casting for the bottom plate i will make these i will not thread them all the way down that is absolutely pointless to do that if only the top exposed point is required to be threaded what's the point threading the whole thing it's wasted you can also make this a little bit bigger diameter should you care to for strength i may also do that i'll know when i get there let's start by taking the file to this guy here make it look like something other than what it looks like right now and there's a slight mismatch in this casting i can't really complain too much top to bottom you can feel it it's an offset but i will file it in and then i will blast it after its file to get that satin finish back on it that'd allow it to take the paint a whole lot better so let's get with the files get with the benches and magnifiers and make something let's do it one thing that i think is very important to point out when you watch an accelerated video like this is having a variety of files is certainly an advantage so use the right file for the right location if you have to use a smaller file use a smaller file if it's a big area then use a big file so you don't have the mismatch from the individual strokes of the smaller file and on some of the closer more detailed work i may be using the tip of my finger like right there for instance i was using the tip of my thumb the tip of my index finger now as a guide for that file so i'm using my other hand as well as the hand driving the file there's a lot of there's a lot of feel for work like this you're not just going to go ballistic on this and start removing material and you can but it's going to show up in the final product so as you as you blend planes break edges too and just see how everything comes together and ultimately the part will come to you be patient keep the files clean and don't be afraid to use your fingertips and such and register the files against that okay let's give it a blast and bring it back to looking like a uniform casting cosmetically not too bad after the first blast you can see some pits that show up after the fact i mean if you want to take it all the way down that's entirely up to you but i think i like some of the cast inclusions just gives it some authenticity i did not file down anything i know will get machined so we'll just take it from there everything is symmetrical about the center line the center line on this is this spindle right here all right after a little bit more file work on the opposing corners i think it looks a little bit closer to round and to me that's very important actually when the faces come off on the end it's going to look a little bit better because it's also offset that way first order of business will be to establish the bottom true to the center line of this that is absolutely critical i want that to be nice and level i want it to be on location so i'm going to use this as a banking surface and i'm going to establish this in the center and flat because this could be all over the place that is no bueno so let's figure out how to hold it get it done after a closer inspection i am aware that the lock area is a little elevated from the rest of the cylinder so just to establish a reliable plane i've indicated the top rib of this to zero actually it's to five but it's not moving so either the indicator is broke or it's good it's good and i'm going to put a cutter in here and i'm just going to dust that little area right there it'll probably leave a witness stripe along the back but then i can invert it and trust that surface it's not going to influence anything out of kilt that's the next step moving right into the machining of that top lock surface i am coming up with the table ever so slowly and i do not want to gouge the top of the cylindrical surface ultimately when i clean off the material that will cooperate i do plan to have a small stripe down the center of that red stripe down the back of this part i know it's going to happen i'm expecting it i'm okay with it and that gives me a true vertical surface or a true reference surface to do the opposite sides i might as well in this orientation since i'm true to the front and rear of the part establish the left and right side of the tail stock assembly itself so now not only is the backbone true to the world the top of the part true to the world but it's also perpendicular and square to both ends small details and everything should come together quite well just take your time okay we have parallel faces front and rear and a nice clean surface across the top that we can trust to do the bottom now i'll flip it over and establish a nice flat bottom parallel true to the top and we can just go from there now that i can trust the top of this little casting to be flat and a good reference surface i've secured it in my vise as such using a one two three block as my vertical reference i've got a pin and a drill chuck and i'm going to visually line up that boss on the front of the casting as the center of my universe at that time i'm going to indicate the size of the part sweeping it like i would sweep a hole or any other block to find the center and i will see exactly how far from center each one of these sides is i'm looking for something very symmetrical the sides of this casting are vertical they're nice and flat only the front and rear edges or the top and bottom as it's positioned have a little bit of draft to it you can see the crown and there are several different ways to approach this but there's no way that's going to be safer or quicker than the other so i'm going to start off with centering it up here i will put a reference cut in here very much like i did for the steam engine frame that reference surface will be very handy but you want to maintain a good solid reference point between the center of the spindle and the bottom and the bottom to the v grooves where you're going to have a mismatch in the height from the tail stock to the center then you're going to turn tapers on all those giant parts that you cut so let's set this thing up on a tripod and get it ready for a little bit better look adding a little bit of red to the reference surface gives you a red visual halo of overlap with whatever device or pin you decide to align with and i'm very pleased with this alignment at this moment digital readout will be zeroed x and y i will now sweep the body of this to see exactly visually how close i got to being on center this will be a big tail for future operations with an indicator mounted to the spindle i'm going to track either side of the part to see exactly where the casting is in relationship to where i visually place that pin now if there is any mismatch you have to decide at this point what do you want to do do you want to take the casting out and trim it down to line it up or do you want to balance out the table right now to the digital and to put the pin back in and see how that looks compared to what your eyes told you and that's exactly what i'm doing here i decided to center on the casting and put the pin back in and go back and see if i can live with the error that showed up on the on the digital i was three thousandths out so i'll take it first feature in the vertical format is the spindle bore and the end cap threaded features so this is a stepped hole do not make the mistake of reaming a 187 hole all the way through this particular part you'll ruin it so we're only going to go so deep with the spindle size and then flip it over and tap the other end but we're going to do all the features in line that is an end mill in the drill chuck initially just to make sure that the reamer tracks a nice straight hole so once you've pilot drilled i always put a right there that's an end mill that establishes a nice concentric hole for the reamer to follow and it usually works out very well camera position is shifted i am on the opposite side of the machine that is the right hand side and the camera is behind the vise there is a small flat under the spindle area where there is some work to be done so i'm going to take this opportunity to straighten that out with this end mill and i'm going to put my witness surface on the bottom so when i flip it i have something to shoot for all right that is a reference surface that is approximately two thousandths of an inch lower than the finished surface needs to be so when i flip this up to do this surface i can hit this surface and go plus two i'm going to take this opportunity to flip the part and tap the back side of this guy now i'm going to make sure that i use the same surface against the stationary jaw that way my y-axis is fairly well established i've put a pin in the drill chuck the size of the pilot hole come down lock it off ever so gently hold that in there snug it up don't over torque it because you can knock it out of location put your finger on the pin without pushing the pin and feel for any type of tick or knock or ding or anything that would say you're not there another good way to check whether or not you're on location with a setup like many of you guys this streamed it take a piece of paper in there use it as a punch if you're on location you'll have a nice clean hole if you're not on location you won't all right let's tap it so now somebody had asked the red pen that i used to mark up my parts these are highlighters part markers that i got from stan zynkowski at the bar z bash a couple years back provided by american rotary and i got a bunch of them i love them so look these guys up big sponsors of the bash if you've ever been there thank these guys and stan of course there we go do next operation following the fly cut of the bottom i'm going to drill the two clamp screw holes that secure the tail stock to the bed ways center to center is the most important dimension here because there's a matching plate that you will need to fabricate at a later time to make sure the sub assembly is complete without moving the part we're going to move right along to the 172 threaded hole that needs to go in the bottom of the spindle this particular pin is just the same body diameter as the tap and will allow me to position this hole correctly and allow me to tap it and not get a five o'clock surprise i'm going to use a much larger drill than required to create the center drill feature right there because i don't have a center drill long enough to get down there i'm just going to peck away at this nice and easy and when i see a diameter form that i like i'll sit there for just a second let it dwell so it centers up and then i'll put the correct size drill in and finish the drilling and tapping i think this view right here gives you a pretty good perspective on the use of the gauge pin to position that hole you can see the body of the tap extremely close to the front of the casting so it's good to plan ahead the part is still positioned in the original setup from the fly cut operation we're going to put the v grooves in the bottom now and historically these v grooves if you think about the way this cutter is working it's a climb cut on one side and a conventional cut on the other side of the same slot so it is advisable if you're going to run a cutter like this through a piece that you run it through the same slot twice because one side is going to have a much superior finish than the other side and you may just see that here in a minute i will run it through twice but you can see how the material clings to one side and that is also due to the surface footage at the very center of a cutter like this being extremely slow so crank up the rpms and have at it that's a four flute half inch diameter carbide 90 degree cutter to do this final inspection of the feature this pin should be a couple of tenths lower than the top of that 50 thou gauge block let's hold that sucker down we're just shy of the zero i would say that's about two tenths to give or take i'll take it for what it is this is going to determine the center line to the rest of the machine and if i can get the headstock as close or at least match this reading that'll have true center lines all right not bad i'll take it the tail stock spindle itself is a 3 16 diameter 187 i guess that's about five millimeters almost it's called roll component it's got a through hole on one side and a tap tool on the other side so that you can drive it in and out one side of this is going to be a number four taper that i will ultimately bore in because buying a small pin reamer like that for one hole is just not cost effective so i'll board it relatively simple after it comes off the lathe it goes over to the mill and gets a slot or a key in the bottom key way on the bottom so that it doesn't rotate as you turn the crank candle to engage it this is the actual slitting operation that is a piece of 187 cold roll steel i need a 32032 keyway in that 25 deep put that tool on center i got to come up 77 and a half once i scuff the bottom locating surface where the roll where the where the pin is sitting and then as soon as i scrape off some of the black on the pin itself i'll just go in the 25 requested all goes well this should work let's find out that's pretty small next phase of the operation is to get a 172 screw and put a dog on the front of it that engages that slot keeps this thing from turning you're gonna like how that's done stick around next piece of the operation is to make a set screw that is a set screw that is a 172 by 0.93 long so i can't even feel that laying in my hand i have to turn an o 31 diameter on that o 31 long [Music] this is really fun i like this all right here's the set screw that needs to be modified and i got to tell you there's not going to be a whole lot left to hold on to so when you do something this small you've got to get very creative and when i say small i mean i mean that that is tiny so here's the plan i have there you go that's better i have a piece of brass here that i have tapped out to the 172 thread that that currently is let's put this through the middle [Music] and i'm gonna back it down into the hole flush with the face or somewhere there abouts now here's the key not that key the key to success take another one put it in from behind and run it down until you hit the one that's already in give it a little torque there you go now you have a solid slug to work with 5 16 you can easily hold this and if you have to turn away the brass which is exactly what i'm going to do i'm sure i'm going to hit it that is not a big deal that's it that's the arbor that's going to help me do that and it's going to be absolutely bulletproof let's take it over to the lathe and prove that okay on the first attempt i got bit by the commercial hardware wizard the brooch uh of the hex drive was actually deeper than it should have been and when i cut the lead on this i engaged the bottom of that brooch pocket and lost the tip so if you're going to do this don't face any of the end off just go for it so that's what we're going to do here for the second try line it up by eye just barely dust the front and make that 0-31 loss on the end so okay back to the bench [Music] this is the jam screw coming out this is the piece that i want hopefully a 172 screw with a very small tip on it i say that's a win normally the next piece that i would do is the tail stock spindle cap but since i'm going to put dials on this the same as i put on the cross slide i feel it's a redundant video footage to do that if you haven't seen those dials go back and watch the mini dials for the mini lathe so through the magic of video editing we're going to accelerate this process to a ridiculously fast pace and make this happen let's do it cinch that down visually come up with an index mark for the top stick it back in the very same jig that created this groove right here and we're going to transfer a little bit of a index mark to the top of that take it back to the lathe part it off test fire get in there and of course no tail stock is complete without a crank this guy is chocked full of inclusions and a couple of mismatches more so on the inside than the outside the inside is looks like it might have had a flow problem or some other issue but i'm going to try to get that as smooth as possible now putting this in the lathe would be the easy way out but it's got this little protrusion right here for where the crank handle goes and that would just totally eliminate the fact that you can put this in the lady to do it so we're going to break out the file hit it with the file then we're going to punch a little broach a square hole through the center and put the 1 16th hole right there for the brass handle let's do it [Music] after considerable file work and a little bit of tlc i got the outside of this to shine the way i wanted it to the inside still leaves a little to be desired and this is a pretty rough casting this is a part that you want to see is appealing and i just gotta say that this one's a little bit rough but i did the best i could keeping everything symmetrical true about center now we gotta broach a square hole in the center and put the 1 16 flat in for the crank candle and i'll assemble it and show you what it looks like if you do have an ugly side i would say put the ugly side towards the main build in towards the dial it'll be the least visible make sure the outside shiny because everybody knows that the tail stock crank handle is shiny all right let's do it camera is currently positioned behind the machine on the left hand side and if you'll notice the ribs in this crank are at 45 degrees that puts the high spot of the square going through the center the height the corners of the square going through the center will be in line with the ribs it just gives it more material if it were rotated square to the ribs then the points of the broach would be on the shallow side it's going to make sense when i punch this thing through there so let me put the square in and put the small 1 16 handle spot face feature right there and i'll show you exactly what i mean it'll make a lot of sense this should go pretty quick [Music] hopefully this particular part although it is a relatively simple part is a perfect demonstration for the use of your absolute and incremental zero positioning like right here the outrigger hole for the crank handle i've changed over to the incremental setting on my digital and i've zeroed out that hole too so now i have two zero points available to me it's easy to return to the center point for the broaching operation after you do the 1 16th rheem hole this is the same broach that i've used for all the square features on this model and having recorded the number for the feature that i want to create this particular operation is relatively easy real time on this little square hole in the middle was seven minutes actually the entire operation the drilling of both holes the reaming and the broaching this was a seven minute part beautiful all right let's touch fit this thing check it out this particular slug is a transport slug for things that i just don't want to see get lost with any kind of luck the piece is still in there there you go this is exceptionally small let's see the tip on that that is the key way for the spindle spindle's threaded on one side and we'll have a 4.0 taper on the other side currently not in i'm not going to lie to you about that but if i don't get something together here i'm just going to lose my patience because this is awfully tedious [Music] all right here's the stationary index piece 1032 thread there's the index mark coming around sooner or later there it is now that index mark had to be put on after this was installed so that it would clock on top of the part 540 left hand screw let's line it up with the key and slide it through so far so good i do have a preferred fit for my index dial and there's the index dial sorry guys no numbers on this now if all goes well when i cinch everything down this index dial will turn with the screw and this other part stays stationary crank and here's what i meant about line up the diamond with the points you can see how close they would come to the outside of that center hub now this thing is is drastically off center not drastically about four thousandths off center but i did that so that the wheel spins concentric as opposed to perfectly visual for those deep hole drilling operations i want that wheel to spin nice and straight of course i'm only kidding this is a 172 screw just about 1.8 millimeters in diameter and last but not least okay moment of truth here we go watch this part right here i like it [Music] these little guys will ultimately be swedged into these handles but until the final assembly i'm not going to swedge anything and there's a lock that goes on here they've asked me to split this in half thread the bottom half through hole on the top and squeeze it and flex the entire casting but i'm not sure i'm going to do that i think i'm going to knock this out to a larger diameter put a steel insert in there that's threaded on the bottom and clear it on the top and when the insert comes together top and bottom it'll pinch the diameter of the part i think it'll just for my model that's the way i want to do it making small changes along the way but the split will absolutely work if that's the way you want to pursue it go ahead and do it and for these guys i will probably hollow this out it's only oh 62 it's about a millimeter and a half diameter i will probably hollow that out and when i push it through the hole i will center punch it from the opposite side and flare it forcing the jamb but i'm very pleased with that it came out nice let's get a little bit lower angle on that for you and it's my new overhead camera rig so you can see the assembly as it happens there she is [Music] that looks almost full size until you do this gotta love it i'm having way too much fun with this guys thank you very much for coming along for the ride as i make subtle changes to already established components i may point them out in shorty segments and upcoming videos but for now i think this tailstock video series is done i have a tremendous amount of footage on this and you wouldn't believe what it took to get this to a reasonable video so if you had to watch two parts i do apologize for that but it is what it is thanks for watching i hope everybody is well joe pi here at advanced innovations in austin texas i'm out you

Channel: Joe Pieczynski

Views: 25,032

Rating: 4.9867606 out of 5

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, Pm Research, Mini Lathe, Scale models, miniatures

Id: wKxEFPrZ9fo

Length: 40min 13sec (2413 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 27 2021