Fairbanks Power Hammer Cross Rail Part 1

[Music] we're starting on our next project here this is going to be a collaboration job that i'm doing with or i'm doing it for eric over hand tool rescue he has got a part is a raw casting that needs to be fully machined and it's off of a fairbanks model e power hammer and this this power hammer restoration can you'll be able to see it over on his channel and he's got some different components that need to be machined and he sent me this one here and we're going to go ahead and finish it out for him i do have a print he provided me a print that i need for the part so size of hammer e i've got everything highlighted there so i've got all the dimensions that i need right here in this column to work off of so this is the cross head this piece right here is going to be the cross head that we're working on and he said that the pitman goes through the bore here so we've got to bore it to size and the pitman goes through here and then we've got some holes to machine through here we've actually the way we're going to do it we're going to bore some holes through here on both sides and i'm going to install some bronze bushings for that and the pins the linkage pins that go through here he's going to have some cotter pins i believe to keep them in place so we're going to bore these put some bushings in there and then the backside is going to be split so after we get our board done we'll go to the knt mill and we'll come in here and we'll split this we'll machine this to the proper width here and then split it and then we have to set it up and actually drill it counter bore it drill and tap the bottom side there so that this will serve as a clamp the casting letters and numbers right here was a concern to me because i've got a dimension that i need to machine this thickness to and when i do i need to take it off evenly on both sides so all these letters and stuff are going to be gone and eric said that was fine they don't need to be on there so i'm just going to make sure that i have a couple of good photos just in case he does need to reference these letters maybe it's a part number i'm not sure but this is going to get machined off there i don't know about inside here they're a little bit rough but we may be able to just dress them down and clean them up the the spacing in here is already a little over what the dimension of the drawing is so i'm not really sure um a simple way to get in there and machine that out so we may just leave this part alone right there because he's got another part a linkage arm that just kind of fits in there like that and then he'll be able to you know put a spacer on each side of it so all right so let's go ahead and get started on it we're going to use the monarch lathe and we'll chuck this up in our four jaw get it running true and get it board to size first thing i'm going to do before we go to the lathe is i want to clean up some of these parting lines here from the casting this will uh kind of smooth it out get rid of some of these really sharp edges and probably help me do a little bit indicating on there as well my plan was to chuck this in here and maybe indicate these these two ods and in the face so we'll just clean some of those high spots down and smooth it up a little bit [Music] i've already got the truck preset here and we're gonna see if i can hold this thing so we'll be holding here and here and hopefully right there on the top so i'm going to be pushing it back up in there like that let's see if i can get it kind of level things to come down a little bit just get it held and i'm going to end up using my copper pads yeah i got it crooked still crooked so i need to come up with it that's the problem it's one of those tricky ones and once you get it though it'll it'll indicate nicely a little bit better all right i think we'll roll with it right there so i'll go ahead and i'm going to use these pieces of copper here because i needed to have a little bit of slipperiness there to be able to bump this thing around and the other reason is on these sides here for these two jaws well including that one there because this isn't a tr straight machine surface there i could be biting on the heel back there on this jaw on one of the jaws towards the back and you'll never you'll never get it indicated you need to have all of your contacts in the same plane whenever you're using a four jaw so i just line up the copper pad there with the front of the even with the front of the jaw and once you get all four of them in there you know that all four contact points are in the same plane looks like i'm still a little bit crooked but we definitely got some indicating to do from there i'm gonna probably bump the face around a little bit try to try to get it from doing this right now it's kind of doing this a little bit so we need to kind of bump it around to where it's sort of straight this way and then we'll work on this direction right here going to start this just kind of watching it i'm going to i'm going to come back here and i can see where my high spot is this section here unfortunately just doesn't look very well centered it's a little wobbly all right we got it looks like we got it pretty straight right there it's not too far off and go ahead and start indicating with the jaws now i'm going to use this surface gauge here as a just a reference like a pointer you can use it like an indicator so we're touching on this side right there so that's the side it needs to push over that's the low side so we're away there just are touching there that's looking better there but you can see what i'm what i mean by just use that as a as a reference you can have it where you just come up and scratch it and then reach over and look and you can see the gaps and you can tell about how far side to side we're looking pretty even and this one there we're away it's looking pretty good this one's a little bit further so i'm going to move this one one more time and of course you got a couple high spots on that casting too so you got to just kind of average it out with what you think is the best surface there all right that's not looking too bad right there so we'll go ahead and move it out here to this side and kind of do the same thing away closer so we need to hit this side there looking pretty good i'm going to keep fine tuning it but i just wanted to you know show you how you can use a surface gauge to help indicate in a casting right here something that's not round a little oblong you can certainly use this right there you can do the same thing you can use the curved end come in here indicate that id there as well if that's what that's what you want to line up on but you can see we're getting it pretty darn straight right there pretty darn good i think we're ready to set up our boring bar and start boring it now [Music] [Music] [Music] we're getting our boring bar set up i'm going to use my loris inch and a quarter and i've got this micro 100 grade carbide brazed on tool i went ahead and cut the back of it off so that it would fit inside the hole also give a little bit of relief under there on the bottom of the cutting edge so to level us out i just very simply let's take a full size square tool like that and this little level here and just hold it on there and i just get it level and then tighten the bar up so we know we are our tool is going to be leveling on center line with a neutral rake so just get this set up so that i know it'll it'll go in there because we got a pretty close clearance there on the tool bit inside this board till we get it opened up it's approximately inch and a half now it's right out inch and a half and we got to bore this to 1 and 13 16 so 1.812 1.813 somewhere in that range there i'm just going to make sure that we got our clearance that we need it looks like we'll go ahead and be able to take our first cut right there we'll go ahead and work on our touch off makes our bars clear in here and by the way i forgot to mention we've got it stretched out here i know that the tip of the tool will extend a half inch outside of the part here go ahead and give that a try and see what it looks like [Music] looking pretty good we'll probably just go ahead i'll run through there and just get a you know establish a cleanup pass about that bar adjusted so close on center line so it's right there near the uh you know the bottom there of the uh of the casted hole so we'll just go on through there and let it do it let it let it do its thing [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] just about to the end here you can tell that the hole is just slightly offline from the axis cutting a little heavy on one side all right so that's the end what i want to do is i'm just going to put me a little red mark here on the ways just kind of know about where the end of the cut is going to be and i decided what i'm going to do is uh let's go ahead and get this in faced off nice and clean because that's another one of our dimensions is end to end right there so we'll face this side off clean and then we'll finish it on the other side when we go to the mill and then we'll come back to our bore there i just want to see where we ended up on our first cut there so one inch 550. just going to use another one of our braised on tools here [Music] [Music] so i told you i got the dimensions over on the print so i'm just getting a measurement there i took a 16th off so we were at nine and one eight total length and that's going to give us approximately 7 30 seconds to take off each end right there but i've also got the dimension even though this is cast it's saying that we should be 9 16 from uh this face here to this face here so we still got a little bit more to take just going to go ahead and get that down a lot closer [Music] [Music] [Music] all right going back in with our boring bar just go ahead and get this thing to size i got to change feed direction there that was 50 i'm gonna try a hundred thousands here total there we go all right 100 000 to pass [Music] our bore is actually starting to come through the sidewall there i don't think that was supposed to be this i don't think it was designed that way where it's open but that's just how it is that's how it was cast but uh we're getting pretty close we should be within about a sixteenth of an inch to our uh finished size so because of the uh the long reach on this bar and all the tool pressure that you get telescope gauges want to unscrew there i'm gonna be taking this probably in three finish cuts now to to equalize the uh tool pressure of the bar with it hanging off like that because i want to try to you know hit my size the way i want so let's see right now we are at uh 1.7 40 45. so it's 50 55 65 so a little over 65 thousandths to come out of it so what i'll do is break it into three cuts we'll take 20 000 so i'm gonna slow the feed rate down to uh five thousandths we'll take 20 20 and then uh you know mike it and take our finished cut and it should put us right there where we want since you are equalizing the tool pressure on the bar we're down to our final cut there we took our two 20 thousands passes our borer looks nice got a good smooth finish there our tools holding up good so let's go ahead and see have a little over 20 thousandths to remove out of there 785 six eight seven seven eighty eight so that's twelve thousandths plus another twelve that's twenty four plus one twenty five so it looks like twenty five thousands to get us at one point eight thirteen i'm just going to double check it here yep seven 788 so that's yeah 25 000 so i'm just going to dial that in because that 5000 shouldn't uh make a difference on the tool pressure there on the final cut i think it's going to hit it right on size all right here we go this is going to be our final pass for the bore and we should be there let that cut move through there we'll check it at the end and once this is done we're going to be going out of the lathe and we're going to go over to the milling machine and set up to do our split there on the on the opposite side let's check our board to find out if we hit our size it looks like we nailed it 8 13 1.8 13. i don't know if you can see it or not we're there it's a half half thousandths over nominal but i'm not sure what it's going to do whenever we split this thing so hopefully it's going to maintain its size but you can also go through there with a flat disc you know a quarter inch rod with some memory paper and go through there and flap that you could probably easily get you know a thousandth out of that by knocking the uh the tool marks down so i'm real happy with that it looks good i am going to go ahead and chamfer this corner right here i can't see the back end so we're going to have to do that one later by hand but uh we're pretty much done let's just get it chamfered we'll get it out of here time to take this thing out of the lathe and go to the milling machine with it now just reverse our process to get our pads out all right there we go i'll do some cleaning here to get the chips out of the chuck and i'll see you over on the milling machine okay [Music] [Applause] do [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 199,108

Rating: 4.9445972 out of 5

Keywords: Abom79, Fairbanks, Fairbanks Power Hammer, Fairbanks Power Hammer cross rail, Fairbanks cross rail, Power Hammer restoration, Fairbanks power hammer machining, machine shop, machining, Monarch Lathe, lathe work, surface gage, 4 jaw chuck, indicating a 4 jaw chuck, manual machining, manual machinist, job shop, industrial repair, Aloris boring bar, Micro 100, Micro 100 carbide tool, brazed on carbide tool

Id: kj_0VEH-pRE

Length: 29min 16sec (1756 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 30 2021