LONG EXPOSURE photography tutorial | Choosing the PERFECT SHUTTER SPEED

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I'm in the Faroe Islands and today we're going to talk all about long exposures [Music] more happy funny fantastic to see you all again I'm back in the Faroe Islands this time with James Pops's well just here for just two or three days and what I wanted to do see there's so many amazing waterfalls and would do for a lot of rain is talk to you about taking long exposures the things that I do the things I think about when I'm taking long exposures so I'm going to try and take long exposures have all sorts of different things the sky obviously waterfalls the ocean some waves and just try and experiment with different exposure lens and just show you how different that can look in camera I'm also going to look at polarizers we look at nd filters just to try and create a different effect and I may even do a composite image of a shot taken with a long exposure or waterfall for instance and then no long exposure on the sky so I want to just try a few things experiment a little bit as well so I'm really looking forward to it hopefully we're going to get some amazing weather and I'm so glad to be back here it is such a stunning stunning place [Music] okay we found a fairly good spot to do a long exposure so the first thing to talk about is a long exposure of just seascapes and what I find for when there's moving water over rocks is around about one and a half to three seconds works really well you know it depends on how fast the waters going over but if you go much more than three seconds it just becomes sort of mush so I try expose in at one second maybe one and a half to two and a half and three and then when you've got a good exposure length big wave coming so when you've got a big expert when you've got the right exposure length then basically you want to experiment with the tide all the waves coming in and then the waves coming out and it's a really good idea to look for a part of your composition where waters sort of going at over rocks so you're trying to create lines leading the eye through the image to the sort of distance now on my camera at the moment I've got a circular polarizer and a 10 stop and D filter because it's the middle of the day and that seems to work pretty well I've got it about I've upped the iso a little bit because i've not got a six stopping when i've got a ten stop filter and it looks pretty good so I'll take a few of these and then we can have a look at them ha [Music] sorry [Music] you watch the world from the place beneath so the important thing is just to check the tie times because noise you get really wet [Music] so now come to the side of this amazing rock stack we've before we were right over there looking this way but we managed to get a boat all the way around and then we've got on the rough side of the ocean so the water's going a lot faster now and I've got to really be careful with my shutter speed because if I have probably one or two seconds that's going to be too long so I've got down to probably around about a half or a quarter of a second and I can do that just with my polarizing filter I want to keep my ISO as low as possible so I've got it down as low as possible and I've got it on f13 just to try and so I'm using my aperture to control the shutter speed and as long as I'm between sort of FA and f/13 I'm fairly happy with the quality of the lens there it is so spectacular here so spectacular and then the other thing with taking along the exposure of water is you just got away so now's a good time so I just switch it switch it on and grab that shot we've got like some blue here and it's not all white and that's quite good because that looks really great oh this is so amazing it really doesn't get any better than this [Music] don't you wait on to the [Music] this island actually makes a good long exposure shot so I don't usually do these very much how about a 10 stop ND filter in and the shadows and the sort of highlights in the sea sort of just look a little bit better when the Seas just slightly smoothed out but I feel that the clouds look better when it's just like a probably about a quarter of a second exposure so I'm going to take two exposures and then I'm gonna combine them in some magic in Photoshop but when you're doing this when you're taking longer exposures and you've got an ND filter in sometimes you get a color cast with that filter ideally you won't get a cold cast but if you do it's usually not a big problem because you can sort that out with the white balance tool afterwards you just need to take the the little dropper in the white balance in Photoshop or Lightroom and just click on something that you thought was about grey and then you can just tweak it a little bit or you can just mess about with white balance what I think that this looks pretty good it's got a slightly blue hue anyway which i think looks really nice take this and we can go and chat about some more long exposures [Music] I really hope you can hear me now cuz a really close to the river but yes you can see I've just set up my camera and I'm going to show you the filters in a minute but what you can also see is I'm I'm in the river I'm actually in the river when you do waterfall from long exploding waterfalls it's really important to have the water coming through you shot it makes such a big difference to the look and the feel of the image I've got a polarizing filter on and I've also got a three-stop and B filter on to try and get it to around about one second which is what I like my waterfall so I've done it about one second and I've got a line leading all the way up to the waterfall as well so no you're I can follow that that the shot all the way up and it really is all about getting in the water for wooden doing waterfall don't worry about getting wet feet and then like what I got today which is my walking boots you need wellies right I'm gonna get in and take this shot so as you can see I'm back in my studio now I wanted to tell you a little bit more detail about some of the longer exposures that I talk because after I've got back looked at them in Lightroom and started to look at some of the exposures and the shutter speeds I think there's a lot of information I can tell you whilst I'm back here as well that I didn't tell you when I was in the Pharos and in terms of that shoe that I just did right at the end it started to throw it down with rain and I got loads of water specs on and I wanted to explain that I still got a shot which I'm gonna show you in a minute but I wanted to explain you know it was throwing it down with rain and I didn't get the one that was just lined up at there so you won't you won't actually see that that shot but it happens sometimes that's photography I mean the important point is that when you're in a waterfall you want to get in the waterfall like always making the point there because if you're in the waterfall and you're actually water's going past you then it's going to create a much better composition so this this shot here I took is a good example of that you can see that it's worked quite well now this was actually Beth of a second and this is something really interesting that I probably didn't realize if I'm honest and tell us start making this video and compiled in it just how different a shutter speed that I use on my photos for taking long exposures and some of them end up not being long exposures more like blurred water exposures so this shot here was fifth of a second and you can see that the water is still blurred it works really well and it just gives you it still a little bit of detail in the water what I like is that detail in the water so if you see these two shots here the first one I've got quite a long exposure I think it is just let me just let me check what it is yeah the first one is a third of a second but then because the waters really moving really fast I felt that I didn't really show the sheets of water coming down in this waterfall so I went to it ended up on a 200 a second still got some blurred motion and I felt I sort of taught that that that that sort of long exposure effect you know really well in camera to hundredths of a second so I suppose where I'm trance a is you don't have to shoot like one second two second long exposures to get the right effect so let's have a look at some other photos and we can sort of go through these photos here and you can see maybe if we start with the longer exposures and get to a faster exposure just the sort of things that I think work well so at the longest exposure and I don't shoot these very much you know you might be shooting like a minute long and you might just be blurring but I'm still water so it might be a lake or something like that a little bit like the shot I did of the island where I had the blurred water at the front and it almost looks like milk I suppose I don't tend to like that that much so moving up and going a little bit faster so if I got a waterfall that I feel the water crane a quite a nice pattern in the water and it's those streaks out into the dark areas of the water I want then it and to shoot around five to ten seconds this one here is 8 seconds this one was 12 seconds in sky and I think that that works quite well but then when you get to water in the ocean and waves and fast-moving water falls then you're starting to get to faster shutter speeds to capture that movement correctly which is quite interesting so so this one that you saw in fact I've got a print of it here which printed out this print here hopefully you can see that so this water here was a half a second and I really liked that I thought I think that comes out really well this half a second exposure in this water and I tried this at multiple different exposures but yeah that worked really well that was a lot of movements in this water and I had to wait quite a long time to make sure that got the blue there because it was so blue so blue this water but it had a lot of white sort of froth on it then that sort of you know took away from this blue color with a combination of both of them create this really nice texture to the water but that was a half a second and so so if we look at this shot here this was a fifteenth of a second so this is a wave coming in this was in Iceland and the water was just cashed in the back of it and I found that a fifteenth of a second just allowed the water just to move a little bit and you could always see that the the direction the water was taken here these sort of sort of lines that waters creating as it's or breaks but don't think that you know you you can stop at a fifteenth of a second because as I showed on the waterfall that was a two hundredth of a second and then this shot here that I took in the Pharos in March this the shot I remember taking this thinking I'm going faster and faster and faster to try and capture the movement of this wave I ended up shooting it at two thousandth of a second so and you know I've still crap you know it's all almost frozen it but I've still got a bit of movement by the wind blow in the water off the top of it and the light catching it so as you can see there it makes a really big difference you know what to speed that you take and it can really change the and impact the feeling of the image what I like to do is try and just get to the point where I've got some movement but I'm still creating a little bit of detail and depending on how fast the waters moving it depends on what shutter speed you need for that and also you just definitely get a polarizer if you have no other filter a polarizing filter would be the one to get and then an ND filter and know of these that I use any grab filters so it was just polarizer and D filter okay just a couple more things so it's that time of year which seems a long time off but this in my top I think there's 40 photos these are my top 40 photos from the last year and 12 of these are going to appear in the calendar now I'm gonna have a bit of a competition I'm going to talk to you about next week with these but 12 of these are going to appear in the calendar and next week I'm going to be giving away a Benro 400-pound tripod so you might want to tune back in next week to find out what the details of that but I'd really don't know how I'm gonna Whittle that down to 12 images it's really hard it's really really difficult maybe I need to get your help a little bit and the other thing is that I want to mention is is I was in the Pharos with James Pops's if you haven't seen his channel go and check it out I'll link it at the end of this video and next week I'm chatting to James about a number of things as well so make sure you tune in to that you know he's really knowledgeable guy and a fantastic photographer as well I've caught him with a tripod so you you tune in for that as well okay thanks ever so much for watching I hope you enjoyed it and until next Sunday bye [Music] [Music]
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Channel: Nigel Danson
Views: 62,136
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: photography, landscape, shutter speed, long exposure, long exposure photography, long exposure tutorial, nd filter, filters, long exposure photography tutorial
Id: t4w0ENeYVK8
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 15min 50sec (950 seconds)
Published: Sun Jun 09 2019
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