Lian Li Dynamic Evo XL in-depth build guide (step by step standard build)

hello this is the provoke prawn and here I'm going to show you how to build the Leon Lee Dynamic Evo XL in the traditional layout with SL 140 and 120 Infiniti fans as well as the LCD Galahad 2 cooler and a number of other highlights now I have built previously in this case in a number of different positions and with various different peripherals and I'll link to a video in the description where I've shown off all the different things that you can do with it CU it is a highly flexible case you'll see here for example with an upright GPU mounted and a top mounted 360 mil radiator with Push Pull and various different other setups including reverse fans performance fans and reverse upside down build here which you can see which looks insane and I've done a video separately on how to do that if you're interested but in this in-depth build guide I'm going to talk to you about the format of the case and how to set up in a class iic way that you saw at the beginning so if you're just interested in building in it making it look awesome and finding out more about how to do it and all the different things of interest then stick with me this is going to be a long video so I will leave time stamps to make it easier for you to get around but hopefully you'll find this in-depth video really useful so stick with me now as we go into this case it's a very flexible case as you've seen from those initial shots and has some really fantastic highlights to it including really easy removable dust trays see that massive one at the bottom for example you have multiple USB ports which are also repositionable and I've shown that in a previous video but you got four USB A's and that's something you'll need to bear in mind cuz we'll need connections for that on the motherboard and I'll get to that later on you also seen that you can adjust the motherboard positioning as well so more on that as well most of the panels come off with thumb screws and there are some other little screws holding the glass panels in place so we're going to take it all apart and show you what to do and where things go and the logic of how we're going to set this up obviously make sure to remove all the magnetic dust panels and give yourself easy access to these things now there are a couple of tiny screws holding on the side glass panel and the front one and so take those out and then you just need to pull the panel towards you and lift it up slightly I will make a note here to take care not to lose those little screws cuz they are really tiny so what I do with this is put them back in the case just makes life a little bit easier so they don't get Miss laid so once you've taken the glass off just screw that back into the hole on top there and keep that for safekeeping obviously you'll need to remove it again when you go to put the glass back on when you finish building but it will make life a bit more secure and then do the same for the front panel as well and you can take that off I would recommend removing that panel because it gives you much easier access to the side fan tray and just reaching around later on when you're trying to build it is a bit of a nightmare otherwise the back panel just pops off and you'll see there's two magnetic dust covers on there and then you've got access to a mass of storage capabilities at the rear ssds and hard dis drive storage locations I'm want to show you how to install those in a minute but you'll notice the door here is held on with magnets and that just pops out and these are hot swap Bays with the hard dis Drive SSD trays so they can just come out like that you can unscrew and then tug your drivers out if you want to so if you've got this in a position on your desk where you can easily access it you can just pull the drives out on a whim they also have power cables and data cables coming out of them so basically your drive just pops in you don't need to worry about plugging it in at the other end which is really nice although obviously you still need to plug those cables in and I'll show you that later on cuz I'm going to go into everything you need to know on it and then there's a whole load of front panel connections which I'll also show you later on as well so stick with me for that you'll notice this is a really roomy case even at the back and especially with my cable management which you'll see later on as terrible but this is great because it gives you loads of potential for tidying things up there's already you can see various different cable ties hooks loops and velcro ties in there to make life more straightforward now the tray for removing the drive Bays you can see there's a little screw on there you basically slide that across and then there's two bays in there that you can easily remove and I get to the installation of those drives in a minute inside the box you'll also find a cardboard box full of accessories and I do mean full cuz it's got loads of things in here including an anti-ag bracket for your GPU which I'll show you in a second and a number of other things which I have covered a little bit in the past got an extension lead for your HD audio for example if you're doing a reverse build that's useful you got these blanking plates for the side fan tray if you're putting fans on there so it looks neater you got additional cable ties and more things as well there's loads going on here and it's really well set up to optimize your build the anti-ag bracket is obviously designed to help your GPU if you're putting it in the traditional horizontal format standard installation you can use this to then support it so it doesn't sag over time actually installs on top of the motherboard using the standoffs included and it's really neat and very nice one of the downsides to the build is you will need to take some time to sort out the screws though unfortunately Le includes a little box here with all the various different screws and other things unfortunately all the screws are then bagged up in a plastic bag so you have to sort it out yourself so this is actually very handy once you got it sorted out especially if like me you change the build in future basically you can section off this little box and create compartments for the various different screws and then you just need to go through sort them out and then put them inside there for storage reasons this makes it easy to access those screws when you go to install the various things but it also ensures if you want to change anything in future or add more and you know where they are and they're easily stored it's a really nice highlight I just wish it was already pre-filled for you I know that's a small complaint but just something to bear in mind you will need to spend some time on this luckily as you'll see in a second the manual comes obviously with an inventory list which shows you all the different screws where they go what they're used for and then you can easily just follow that and sort them out you will see the long screws here on the right hand side pay attention to those cuz we're going to use those for a fan in a minute I want to show you that's pretty interesting but here you can see the list of everything that's included and I've sorted them out into neat piles and then you just put them in the box and keep them all contained I would highly recommend using this as well so they don't get mixed up and it makes just life a little bit easier as you're going through the build process pause here obviously if you've lost the manual to see which screws go where and what's for what now I want to quickly show you a bit further on in the build process with one of the other builds I did because there are some interesting highlights to think about before you start building if if you're not aware already this motherboard tray is highly adjustable for example so you can put the motherboard in there and then obviously screw it down with the various motherboard screws that included in there which are the very small ones and once that's secured you can then take the motherboard tray out which is useful because it means you can access the back plate on the back of it if you want to install a standoff for a cooler but it also means that you can reposition it at the rear of the case there are various different thumb screws that you can remove and once you take those off you can then remove panels and move the motherboard up and down now the motherboard tray allows for top bottom and middle positioning and depending on where you put it will impact what you're doing with your build and I'm actually using this in various different ways if you've seen the other videos on it you'll know what you can do in terms of if you position it one way you can put fans extra fans in places but in this logic what I'm going to do a little later on is I'm position it kind of high up because I want to be able to use the strammer cables for with the GPU coming from below think about this sort of logic and what you're going to do cuz perhaps you might want to mount it low down for example you might want to put it on the Bottom Rung that then allows you to top mount a push pull radiator above and still have loads of space up there something to consider so you can do that or maybe you want to top mount so that you can access loads you can see just how much space there is down the bottom once you've done this you'll have extra room down there so if you're doing for example a custom Loop system perhaps you want extra space at the bottom for radiators and reservoirs or other things and if you do it the other way so if you put it at the bottom you can then make use of more fans at the top so if you position the motherboard right down the bottom you can actually put two 120 mil fans at the top rear which is pretty flexible so it's highly flexible but it's worth thinking about this before we get into the build so you can work out what you're going to do and how to do it but you can see that it is really easy to do so it is actually possible to maneuver this around even when you've started building or you're quite far into the build so you don't necessarily need to panic but I just wanted to to demonstrate this now so that it's in your mind as we go through the build or as you plan out your build so you'll see now if you put it in the bottom position that opens up flexibility to basically put more exhaust fans on there so here you can see lean Lee's performance fans for example now we got 2 120 mil fans of the rear and three on the top this is one of several different options for layouts and an interesting one another highlight is you can potentially have 420 mil fans on top isn't obvious from the specifications but it is actually possible I have shown it you can see it here the fans will Mount that way if you want to do that now with the GPU mounting I want to quickly show another highlight here so interesting GPU setup there's a couple of doors at the rear that are held on with thumb screws once you've maneuvered those out of the way you can just basically lift the flaps down and then you can take out the PCI brackets and remove those you'll notice that they're not held on with screws which is fairly unusual most cases we'll hold those in with screws so it's much easier to remove then we've got the anti sag bracket which I want to show you the setup process for cuz it's really straightforward and this is well worth installing but again it's worth thinking about before you go into the full build because you will need to do it to your motherboard and you don't want to get too far in so essentially this is a little bracket that will Mount onto the standoffs and sits on top of your motherboard and you need some initial setup that you can see me doing here so there's a little rubber sticker that sits on top of this bracketing for example that will obviously press against your GPU so it won't scratch it and that's beneficial there and then you just need to line that up and there's a small screw included that you screw it into the little bracket on the bottom here and that's basically securing that down and then we need to just set up the motherboard to install this in a second this is a nice addition and speaks volumes to the various different things about this case you've already seen quite a few different highlights to it it is a wonderful case for building in for variety of reasons so I've installed the motherboard as standard here which obviously you wouldn't do so I'm going to just take those standoff screws out so just the two standoff screws on the right hand side of the motherboard this is an ATX motherboard the eatx setup is ever so slightly different unfortunately I don't have one to B A to cover that right now but you use the black standoff screws that are included in the box and they screw into the ones that already on the motherboard tray the motherboard sits on top of those and then these black ones sit on top of that and then the bracketing for the anti sag bracket sits on top of that and uses black motherboard screws to screw into those standoffs so it sits right on the right hand side here which obviously depending on the length of your GPU is going to offer support either to the very end or somewhere in the middle you'll see later on that I've got 49 in here which is pretty long and it's about 3/4 of the way along in terms of supporting that it's going to vary obviously depending on your build but for demo purposes here's a 3090 and we just plug that into the top slot as you normally would and then once that's slotted in you can then adjust that bracket at the bottom and it's just got a button on the side of it so you just press the button in and lift it up and down and adjust it according to where you need it for the best support so it's really straightforward now obviously this is uh quite late in the build so now we're going to rewind a little a little bit and I'm going to show you some of the steps for ssds and hard dis Drive mounting so for the ssds there's actually a couple of different options and one of them is very flexible so we're going to start with that you need these little antivibration rubber mounts and then some of these screws here that you can see have a very flat top in them and we're going to screw those in now what this does is basically gives you little Clips to then Notch your SSD into the case and you actually have have a number of options in terms of where you're going to pop it and you'll see there are actually masses of these so potentially you can install loads of drives in here if you've got the room so this Kingston Drive will slip in and you can put it in the middle and then you just basically slide it in on the rear here and then you just need to screw those screws down to secure it in place what I found was it's a little bit fiddly if you screwed the screws too far in so just adjust them slightly slide it over and then screw it down so it hold them there now obviously you've got three different positions on this tray where you could Mount the ssds so you could potentially have three which is nuts and you'll notice that you could also Mount them directly to the case itself on the rear so there's a lot of the same sort of holes in there as well now this is really going to vary depending on what you've got installed as you'll see later on I end up with three controllers obviously a power supply unit and a mass of other things so it's not easy alternatively you can use the hard dis Drive B so this works with both ssds and hard dis drives and obviously it has the advantage to being hop swap so you don't need to worry about cables coming out of your ssds which makes life a little bit more straightforward and less fiddly so now what you do here is you have to obviously Mount the drive to the Bay paying attention to how that bay has come out of the hard dis Drive cage because you need to make sure you position the connections on the SSD or hard dis drive so that they will slide in to the socketing on the tray itself when you put it back so it's important to pay attention to that basically the driver has to sit right along the edge obviously the screw holes will line up and that will make life easier these are the same screws by the way that you'd use to install your motherboard as well so they've got a small top to them very small screws so watch out for those and that's that set up and then hardest drives same sort of logic you need to make sure obviously you're lineing it up again so it's near the bottom and then just screw in the screws there are different screws for the hard dis drives obviously now theoretically obviously you could have two hard dis drives or two ssds in here and you can do the same in the other bay so potentially you could have four hard dis drives and then you could have three ssds or maybe more along that tray that I showed you a second ago so if you've got loads of storage or you want to put loads of storage in here there's plenty of options so it's very flexible in that way and then they just slide in and click into place and have that connection on them and then there's the cables that you need to connect to your motherboard and obviously to your power supply unit to power them and send the data to your PC so really nice setup there and because they're hot swap you can just basically pop them out with these now one of the interesting highlights here is you can actually mount a fan on this cage as well so if you're worried about overheating you can add a fan to it now you do need a low profile fan you'll see this is quite a slim one from Corsair that I happen to have so these are smaller than your average fan you can't put a standard 120 mil fan on there it has to be thinner but it will sit on there and then you can put air into that Bay from the outside of the case and use the long screws that I mentioned earlier on basically go through the fan and mount into the cage you can do this on both obviously both those Bays will accompany one of these although you know we both hard dis drives that are inside will get enough air remains to be seen because obviously you know you've got a fan blowing onto something and then potentially that's blocking the one behind but it's nice to have that extra air flow cuz I have seen people comment before that they're worried about that now if you're not going to be using both Bays you can remove them you can take both out or you could just take one out to free up some space in the initial build that I did here with the performance fans I actually ended up using a Corsair shift power supply unit which has this cables coming out of an unusual position which meant that this bottom Bay was in the way so I just took it out you'll notice that there's a little clip that holds the cables in place but just a quick look at that you'll see two data cables and one SATA power as well so pay attention there to what you need but if you are planning on using a shift power supply unit you can see that it will fit if you remove that cage so something to think about and then we've got a lot of cabling taking those bays out does mean that you've got more space though you can see we've got a lot more space down the bottom now and that's freed up and it does make it easier to plug cables in and things and you can see that there's plenty of room there even with all those cables don't forget though we do need to connect things up so if you do have your power supply unit installed make sure you use your SATA power to connect up for example the front power for the RGB lighting strip on the front of the case and also any ssds that you're going to be installing or hard dis drives in those cages they'll need powering too so now it's worth plugging those in and making sure they're connected and I'm going to do more on the powering wiring and such a little later on cuz I actually am not going to use the shift in this build that you'll see so just wanted a demo a few different things before we got into that one of the other things you'll see we have those various different metal hooks for the cable management so you can obviously Slide the various cables through there but the other thing that's nice about them is they're also removable because like the ssds they're basically holding with screws and clips so you can actually you move them into different places you can put them in the same sort of positioning or you can put them sideways on as I have done here which makes them highly adjustable and you can easily position them so not only are they a big sort of loop that sits over your cables but they also have a velcro tie on top so you've got the ability to easily manage your cables without loads of plastic cable ties for this build I'm using a strict z790 motherboard and I'm going to show you the setup process for that now and all the different things in it I'm using a core I 913 900k processor along with 64 GB of Kingston Fury Beast RAM and a number of other things and I am using a Galahad cooler to cool this I9 CPU so more on that in the near future I'm also using a number of mvme ssds including the crucial t700 which is actually a Gen 5 Drive which might not make sense with this motherboard cuz it's only Gen 4 but something to bear in mind we're then going going to install the CPU so I'm going to show you some of the basic setup here if you're not aware already for an Intel setup you basically just need to remove that top cap then gently lower the CPU in taking care not to damage the pins if you do damage the pins on the motherboard it can cause all sorts of problems so be very careful when lowering that in and then just put that latch back down and remove the plastic cap if you're installing two sticks of ram you want to put them in slots A2 and B2 which is the second slot away from the CPU and the fourth slot that will ensure the XMP will work properly and that your system will boot I going to use four sticks simply because I use 64 gigs for various different things including video editing but two will do for most people and if you are using four obviously you don't need to think about where you're installing it just put all four in and way you go so this is actually really nice RGB Ram as you'll see and this is ddr4 cuz that's what the motherboard is and I've done video on this motherboard separately if you want to find out more about that as well as on the crucial dri so the t700 for example which is a really fast drive with its own massive heat sink that you can see there so if you're installing mvme ssds a few tips quickly as well with most modern motherboards you'll have various different heat shields like this one here that you can see take that off and you'll find plastic stickers on the underside covering various thermal pads before you install your drives make sure you take those stickers off but keep the thermal pads in place cuz they are very important even if you have a nice big heat shield like this thermal pads can make a big difference I've done a video on how much difference the heat shields and stickers and other things make that'll link to in the description I'm also using crucial P5 plus and a t700 without that massive heat shield as well and because I just got masses of storage that I need for video editing for games for clips and all sorts of other things you don't necessarily need this many drives but it is a lot easier as you can see than installing hard dis drives and ssts cuz they basically just Notch into place with relative ease but do make sure you put those heat shields back on so the thermal pads can help with dissipating the heat now I'm using the Galahad 360 mil LCD cooler and I've done a video separately on this and how to set it up but I'm going to go through the same process now if you want to do the same and the logic of it and show it off cuz it's a very nice cooler as you can see 360 mil cooler with a really nice radiator the infinity fans already pre-installed which is excellent cuz I'm going to be using infinti fans throughout the build anyway the interesting thing here is that those Infinity fans have the two cables for RGB and fan power from the daisy chained setup and that is a bit more s of old school from Le and Lee and I'll show you the connections for that in a second the pump head has pre-applied the thermal paste and the connections on it are also really straightforward now it has a display on it that's capable of showing things like gifs temperature readouts and Leon Le's logo and more so it's really nice coola it's also got an AC Tech eighth gen pump on it so really efficient and quiet on the side you'll notice there's a USBC connection as well as a larger connector you actually don't need the larger one for the infinity model but you'll see there's also a single cable that comes out here that connects up to the AIO pump pump header on your motherboard the setup for this is actually really straightforward with an Intel build like this I'm just going to use another motherboard to demonstrate this but this connects up to the AO pump header as I've shown on this motherboard formula motherboard is on the top right and you'll see it marked AO pump it may well be aiio cyst pump or something similar labeling like that on your motherboard check the manual to find out where it is but that connects up in that way obviously I'm showing you this outside the case just so it's more visible ible and you can see the logic of the wiring easily this then has a USB connection on the pump head which is required to display obviously the various different things you're going to set up in L connect you need to connect that up there and then run that cable through the case to the bottom and plug it into the USB port on the bottom of the motherboard this needs to be done otherwise the display won't work so keep that in mind obviously the AO pump header connection means the pump's controlled by your motherboard but if you you want to control the display and the RGB LGH you need to do it with this USB connection so that's really important that's connected on both ends both the pump and the motherboard and then we have the fan controller so the fan controller is different to the classic Infiniti one in that it has multiple connections one for RGB and one for fan power usually the one that comes with a triple pack is slightly different but this controller is able to control up to four different groups of fans it does require SATA power so you will need to connect it up a power supply unit I'll show you the logic for that in a minute and what you do essentially with the basic setup is you take the fan Powers coming out of here connect the power to one connector and the RGB connector to the other you can't get this the wrong way around the one with the clips on it is the RGB so this is the fan power and then there's the RGB connector that goes above that now obviously because they're Daisy chainable fans you can connect up to three other groups on here potentially I'm going to show you you how to do push pull cuz I actually wanted to put six fans on this so I'll show you that in a second now included with this controller is another cable which has a little tiny connection on the right hand side on the bottom of the controller and then it has different connections one that goes to your CPU fan header on your motherboard so that means the motherboard can have control over the CPU fans cuz those are the fans on the radiator so there ones going to be cooling the liquid that goes through and then you need a 5V RGB head on your motherboard but only if you want to control the RGB lighting via your motherboard software and that's because the controller gives you the option you can plug in USB and then control the RGB lighting via L connect it's a lean Le software or you can use the 5volt RGB header which you can see here either on the top or on the bottom of this motherboard to control the lighting and sync it with your motherboard software personally I just stick with the USB connection it makes life easier and don't have to worry about loads of cables but that USB connection will allow you to to control the lighting and you get more lighting options via lconnect than do anything else the downside here is now you can see we've already got two USB connections here because we've got the pump head and we've got that controller and there's only two connectors on the motherboard most modern motherboards will only have two sometimes only one very rarely three but we're going to quickly fill those up because as you saw I've also got strimmers to put in here as well so if you do have that same predicament I have some recommendations for you because it is possible to use some other things one of which is Enz X T's USB hub so you can see this is is an additional purchase obviously but it allows you to connect up to four different USB devices into this one Hub that then has SATA power but then also has one cable that plugs into the motherboard so you still got another spare Port then so that's the wiring Logic for the cooler fairly straightforward really easy to set up and is a great little thing to be honest especially when combined with the rest of the Stu stuff that we're going to be putting in here as you've seen from those initial shots and I'll show you some more of what it looks like at the end of the video as well now you don't need to do this but I wanted to demonstrate how this case is able to handle Push Pull which I have done before but in this time we're doing it slightly differently because we're going to put SL 120 Infinity fans on the rear of the radiator as well again we're using that same cable that's included with a single pack of sl10 Infinities so you plug that into one end connect it up as you normally would and then it's got an RGB and fan power connector on it now as standard these cables come with a 5vt connection much like the one we just connected to the motherboard but you also get extra cables included in the box with the cooler which have an adapter that allow you to then connect it up to the controller that's included with the cooler so you can connect up case fans to this control box or alternatively Push Pull fans as we're doing here obviously connecting up these two uses another group on the controller but that means you can then control everything that's on the radiator with this one controller now this is the cable that's included you'll see it has some pins in it that plug into the one that's coming out of the fans and then the other end of it plugs into the control box now for this build I'm using this controller only to control the fans on the radiator which means that in L connect I can see One controller specifically for these and I can manage the fan speed of the fans that are on the radiator directly or o means with that CPU fan connection that I mentioned coming out of the controller and going into your motherboard that the motherboard can control it if you wanted to do it that way so six fans all on that rad now this isn't necessary but it is easy especially with this logic and it's fairly straightforward to do and actually the RGB is still visible through the back of the case as well if you're wondering although not the infinity mirrors obviously and make sure if you are doing this that you face the fans in the same direction so the fans come pre-install facing towards you which means they're sucking air through the rad and you want to put your fans on the other side in the same direction so they're assisting with it before going any further I'd also recommend removing the protective stickers off the mirrored parts and that's simply because they're going to be more difficult to take off when it's inside the case but obviously take care not to scratch these mirrors when you do go about the installation so if you are clumsier I'll leave that decision up to you about how you put it in now we're going to remove the fan trays and the fan tray come off the case in the same way for both the top and the bottom again there's a couple of screws holding them in place and then you just need to remove them and for this I'm using 140 mil fans so these are the 140 SL Infiniti fans unfortunately there's no reverse version of this at the moment but basically you need to make sure you're lining up that fan tray so the way it came out of the case need to think about the logic of how that's going to go back in so what I'm doing here is I'm setting it up so that the fans will be positioned in a way where we're pulling air in from the bottom of the case and also exhausting it out of the top so my goal here is to have cool air coming in from the bottom and hot air exhausting out the top and then obviously we've got exhaust going through the radiator on the cooler as well one thing to bear in mind as you'll see I'm making a mistake here if you're paying attention in that I've got the fans a little bit too far off to the left so I actually ended up having to adjust them because there's still a gap so pay attention to that if you're particularly keen on getting everything right even now there's still too much space in the right hand side that I'm sure people will point out but you can see here when we're mounting the fans on the bottom obviously you can see the back of them um but they do fill up the bottom of the case nicely I've shown what 120 mil fans look like in here previously with reverse blade fans and the gaps a bit large unfortunately at the bottom so it doesn't look quite as nice so I thought I'd try the 140 Ms instead just to show what that looks like and I personally prefer it I just hope that Leon Lee does reverse blade 140 M Infinity fans at some point once that's back in place reattach that screw to the bottom to ensure the fan tray doesn't move around you don't want it vibrating obviously and having horrible sounds when you're using your build and then repeating the process for the top tray obviously the fans are facing in that logic where basically going to be pulling air out of the case and exhausting out of the top you could install the fans without taking this tray out as you can see you got plenty of access to it once you've taken everything else off but it does make life easy so they slide out you can see there's some clips and this is the same on both the top and bottom you have to slide it in a certain direction in order to then maneuver it out of the case and then you just got to remember which way around that's gone when you go and set this up again I'm using 140 mil fans here and the same sort of setup logic and wiring those in in a second and I'll show you the logic for that but this time because they're facing down is the case you will be able to see the infinity mirrors so that will look nicer for sure and I'm obviously skipping some of the steps for screwing this in CU it's a long process this has taken several hours to put together so if you enjoyed this content you find it useful Please Subscribe and give me a thumbs up for all my efforts and hopefully you've seen The Wonder of what's available and what's possible here so now we're putting that tray back in and setting up again take a note of where you've positioned the fans cuz can see the gaps on either side of them and you may want to think about that because obviously you could top mount your radiator as I showed earlier on it is possible to top mount around and you could push pull instead so these sort of trays account for that and as I said you can put 4 120 mil fans on top if you prefer now I'm looking at the logic of where we're going to be positioning the all-in-one radiator and obviously I wanted to demonstrate this with the standard setup initially so just bear that in mind obviously this six fans AR on there there's only three now you're meant to have the tubes on the bottom of the pump head in this instance but I just wanted to see sort of the length of the tubes the interesting thing about this allamong coola is the tubes are actually maneuverable on the radiator side so you can see that you can actually twist them the design to basically maneuver around so you can adjust the position and improve the aesthetic of your build which ends up looking really nice as you'll see later on and because of the motherboard tray being customized you can adjust the position of it as well a quick demo for those that want to put their tubes down this is how that would look not great I don't think and also you need to account for the length of your GPU now I'm setting up and preparing the motherboard further so we have a back plate here that's required for this cooler push the standoff screws for that out to the furthest Corners because this is LGA 1700 so if you're following along with 13th or Beyond coolers you might need 1,700 socket that then slips into the back there and there's no sticky tape or anything on the back of this to hold it in place so you need to hold that there while you flip it over and then put the rest on the next part is there are four rubber washers included in the box and these need to go off over those and these need to go over those standoffs and pushed right down tight over them connecting it up to the motherboard and that will then snugly hold those in place i' recommend tugging at the standoffs and pushing those rubber washes over the top so they're really secure in there it's a bit fiddly but I found if you didn't do it hard enough the standoff has some wobble in it where it's not properly secured so that could then lead to it being loose which is obviously not be ideal and then we can secure the motherboard in place so this is the same process I showed you earlier on with that formula motherboard slip it in and then use the various different standoff screws to screw it in place there should be about nine and you'll just screw those in quickly and carefully and as I said if you need to you can always reposition the motherboard in a little while as well as I do actually so it's worth watching out for that cuz then you can basically adjust your build depending on what you're doing but if you think about it beforehand you won't necessarily have that issue so now quickly I'm going to show you some of the connections so this first one is USBC which is just below the 24 pin power supply cable and then there's usba a so this is that flat white connector that you can see here now this case has four usba a connections on the front panel which means you have two cables to plug in most modern motherboards don't have that but you can buy splitter cables like this one here which allow you to put two into one so that's what I end up doing with this build and I am actually happy to report that it does work so you can use something like this is fairly cheap but again this is an additional purchase unfortunately Leon Le doesn't include include anything like this in the Box it would be nice if they did because it would have made life easier but you can basically use that to then ensure that you can use all the usba front panel connections and it's a bit messy but you can fold most of that behind the case hide the white cables away and only have this black one on display and I'll leave links in the description so you can see that then you have the data connections for your hard dis drives and ssds so those come from those hard drive cages that I showed you earlier on and then there's a front panel connector which is f panel which goes in the bottom right here and that's obviously for your power switch and other things check your motherboard manual to see how that lines up which usually on the bottom right and you plug that in then we've got HD audio which it basically plugs in on the left hand side that's for your 3.5 mil connection so you can plug your headset into there if you want to on the front of your case where the USB connections are plug that in in the bottom left and set that up and then there is a 5V RGB header and that is for the front panel RGB strip that comes on the case again as before look for the 5vt RGB header on your motherboard usually in the bottom middle is sometimes on the top right varies from motherboard to motherboard and then I'm plugging in that Corsair fan to a Cy fan header as well so if you're using a fan on the hard dis Drive cage don't forget that for this build I'm using a corset hx1 1,500 I power supply unit this is a modular piho that I've done a video on separately but I'm going to show you the wiring Logic for this and what to plug in so you can think about it beforehand obviously this will vary but mostly these ones are really easy to set up and here's a load of cables that are included in the box but we won't need all of them and I'm going to be using strammer cables but we'll get to that in a bit but we've got the 24 pin power supply cable and that's always on the right hand side and again I'm showing this outside the case on a different motherboard just so you can see that so that plugs in there and you need to make sure that's well secured it's split into two parts on the power supply end and so push that in until it clicks into place you'll see there's a clip on the top of it which makes it easy to slot in but you need to make sure it's pushed in on both the motherboard and on the power supply so it Clips in nicely and otherwise your motherboard might not on and that will be a problem and then we have two CPU power connectors these are eight pin CPU power connectors not every motherboard has them some have two some have one some have one and a four pin but this motherboard has two eight pins so we plug in the two connectors the CPU end plugs into the motherboard so the part Mart CPU plugs into the motherboard the other end plugs in to the modular power supply where it's marked CPU and that's that setup and this is where those would plug in in the top left now if you have a cable that has one8 pin and one four pin you can actually split these connectors so that it will still work so it's possible to do that if you need to the other cable we need is this flat sat power connector this is Daisy chainable but as you've seen I've mentioned already it it's needed for the hard disk drives for ssds it will also need it for the fan controllers if you're using a cooler as I am with the Galahad cooler for example and obviously for the sl120 fans as well so it's multi-functional you might need two of these depending on how many controllers you've got but they are Daisy chainable you can connect up multiple different things to them with these the power supply when you're installing it make sure the fan faces the back of the case because it will be pulling air in through the venting holes on the rear there so we just pushing that in place there is also a little shelf inside the case which it will sit on so it sits into there and then you just got four screws that you screw into the rear and secure it to the case as well so it doesn't move around obviously it's quite a big power supply as you can see is 1,500 Watts it's pretty massive possibly unnecessary I've done a video on what power supply you need for your case if you want to find out more about that but the you can see how much space there is so then obviously once that's in then we can plug in the cables that I showed you earlier on doing the two 8 Pin power supply cables for the CPU and then I'm going to set up the streammer cables which I've done a video on separately but these are extension cables essentially with RGB lighting so that plugs into the motherboard and then runs through to the back and then the power cable for the 24 pin connector just plugs into that and there's another cable that goes to a controller I'll show you that in a minute it makes the front of the case look a lot nicer but there is a lot more cables to plug in and think about now I'm going to quickly secure the cooler so working out making sure it looks okay I wasn't overly happy with the tubes covering the Ram uh but you can reposition the motherboard so that is something to think about so the tray for this pops out and you can see that you can easily just Notch it out of there and then pull it out of the back take care cuz I did manage to bruise my thumb on this if you've watched my videos recently I wondered why my thumb looked horrible it's cuz I bruised it on that tray by accident once it took ages for that to recover so F in the chat for me but then you basically put the radiator on and and use the little screws to secure the radiator to this tray this is only if you're doing a standard installation though obviously you'd use that like this but if you're going to be using Push Pull stick with me because what you'd use is the other fans to secure it instead but the standard setup I wanted to show just in case you're not being crazy and aren't using six fans you don't necessarily need to as I said but it is awesome and it does have the space to do it this fan tray is also flippable so you can swap it round you can make it face the other way you could potentially Mount the radiator on the back and hide it away which is interesting so there's plenty of options with it now we're going to install the pump head note that it has got pre-applied thermal paste on it so take care not to rub that off during the installation process this also has the Intel bracket on it already so you don't need to worry about that but it will work with AMD so if you are doing an AMD build you can use this there's details on how to do that in the instruction manual so now we're lining it up with the top of the CPU and those standoffs that we set down earlier on take care with this to gently put it in place and then you need to use the thumb screws to secure it down we do need to make sure they're well secured so there's good contact now for this one we're using these thumb screws here with the four dots on the top of them around the outside of the screw holes I'd recommend using your hand at first to screw them in and go one corner to the other so bottom left to top right top left to top bottom right just to basically give even pressure across it now I'd also recommend making sure that they are nice and tight though you need to ensure that there's a good tightness here if it's not tight enough then your CPU May overheat but also be careful not to overtighten them because you don't want to damage the motherboard either so is a fine art but the number of times I've accidentally put it on too loose and then found the CPU is running too hot if you're worried what I'd recommend doing is running some benchmarks after you built your PC and see what your temp's like and if you do find that they are a bit hot in the very high 90s then it might be simply that it's a bit loose and it could be something as simple as that so if you're not using the standard radiator installation but are doing push pull instead then what you use is the fans I showed earlier on so 120 mil make sure they're facing the same way as the ones on the front in this case obviously exhausting so they're pulling air through the radiator inette and then pushing out the back of the case we need some additional screws cuz they're there aren't any of these included with the cooler but you can purchase radiator screws separately with fairly easy basically long radiator screws pass through the fans through the fan tray and into the rad and then they hold the whole thing in place rather than the small radiator screws that we use in a minute ago so you just need to do that setup there it is a bit more fiddly because you kind of have to hold the radiator in place while you're screwing it in it's actually a bit beneficial the way I've done it because you can see I've still got the small rad screws in the top here so this is one way to do it and then once you've secured some of the fans because they're daisy chain they just click into place you can just put that final one in and then secure that down and then you just need to think about the wiring for it again cuz we need to make sure those cables are all running to the controllers so we're now pretty far into the build subscribe if you haven't already come on do it you know you want to it's free and then you take these cables from the fans on the front and we need to run those to the rear now one of the interesting highlights of this if you're not aware already with the Leon Le UNIF fans is they have a little cap on them which allows you to adjust the cabling of them this is really useful cuz what happened to me is I found that the cables for this were basically running the wrong way and it looked a bit messy so they're going off to the right and I wanted to go to the left what you can do is you can just pop that cap off and then adjust it so the top cover comes off and then just can be flipped round and then you can maneuver the cables so they face in the direction you want this means you can KNE things up a little bit and make it tidier obviously I've run it through one of the rubber areas you could even potentially run it at the bottom of the fanr to make it even neater and there's plenty of space to make things look really tidy in this case as well and to tuck cables away which is beneficial now just as a reminder we need to use the controller for the AO for these fans and the ones on the rear and as I said you could use a single controller for all the fans I've got set up in this if you wanted to so this controller has a double-sided sticker which you can put on there and then you can find somewhere in the case to stick it onto it's a good idea to do this but also to plan it out before you do it because I made a mistake of thinking the bottom would be a good spot for this I was thinking that was near where the cables were coming from uh the bottom of the rad on both the front and the back and that the USB connection would run to the motherboard really easily here and the SATA connection ction but the one thing I forgot was the CPU fan power connector so just think about where you're going to plug in all the different things so obviously the RGB connectors and fan power connectors from both sets of fans plugin now I chose group one and two for this the reason for that is that you can then make a mental note of that and then when you're in the ELC connect software you can look at those groups and you can adjust the fan speed specifically for those six fans on the radiator in L connect to account for your CPU temperatures whether that's creating a custom curve or using a standard one and just flicking the speed around on the fly if you're adding in other groups of system fans and connects them to the same controller that means you can separate the logic out a bit more then this control box obviously needs sat power don't forget that cuz that's important otherwise the fans will not turn on and the USB connection so you can control it via LC connect as a reminder you'll also need that CPU fan connector and the RGB connector if you want to control the RGB from your motherboard software but that's where I then realized obviously I was going to have a problem because this is too low at the bottom of the case and I can't reach the cable for the CPU fan connector so I ended up moving it to the top now not a major issue cuz the stick was still there but obviously you don't want to keep removing and resticking a sticker like that cuz it might end up losing its stick and that's one thing to think about I also have to put two more controllers in here yet I need the strammer controller and another sl10 Infinity controller simply because I wanted to separate out the system fan cables now you don't need to do that but I want it to have two different controllers one for the CPU Cooler and one for the system fans just for the Simplicity of it and you'll also notice that I do add in a rear 120 mil fan as well so the AO pump connection don't forget this one is on the bottom left to the CPU here or alternatively it's on the top right you need to run somewhere for that cable it was a bit long so it's a bit fiddly and I ended up running it to the back of the case and then through and round and down so it was a bit neater and Tred to tuck some of it away it is unfortunately a bit messy there but that's just the design of this motherboard then the tubes weren't in the right position for me the blocking the ram a little bit I thought maybe if I rais the motherboard up put it into the higher position that would then reduce that but also I wanted to do this because I'm using the trimmer power cable so the RGB extension cable for the graphics card I figured that if I had more space at the bottom to run that cable it would put less pressure on the GPU cable but also show off more of the RGB lighting it also means there's a big gap between the fans and the graphics card something to consider obviously you could also do vertical mounting in this case as an alternative and upright GPU mounting as I showed as well you can then reposition the tubes on the radiator as well and NE things up and it also comes with some velcro ties so you can tie those tubes together and make it look a little neater it is nice to be able to adjust this and customize the position of it depending on your aesthetic and it's designed to do that as well so you don't need to panic don't forget though we need to make sure we connect up that USB connection otherwise you won't be able to control the display via L connect you may need a firmware update as well and those things can be done via lconnect 2 so get lconnect downloaded as soon as you've set your system up Don't Panic as well if your fans don't spin up immediately because sometimes they'll set to zero RPM on the first boot if they're brand new so that's worth watching out for but you should find if you've connected everything up that they do spin up and do light up as well so I run that USB cable through to the back then around the back and down and into the bottom of the motherboard as I said I had to use a USB hub for this though because with multiple different things requiring USB you do need those extra connections so with the strammer c don't forget to plug in the 24 pin power cable from that into the extension cable and then that cable with the RGB Lighting on it also has a little connector which needs to go to the strummer's own controller so the strammer both the 24 pin and the pcie one that goes to your graphics card require powering and control via separate controller which is different from the all-in-one cooler controller and the infinity controller and so more USB and more sat power and other connections are required but this is the cable that plugs into that I've done a video separately on the 24 pin and the other pcie connections with the stammers if you want to see that wiring guide and just tips on that I'll link to those and the description and this is fairly straightforward but you can see is completely different to the other controllers so you can't use it sadly for the fans and it does mean that you need to think about the space in your case if you're going to be doing it but that's a good thing about this Evo XL is pretty massive so there is plenty of space in there for this and then now we've got a load of USB connections so that's something to keep in mind and also don't forget we need SATA power for all these things which is why I said earlier on you might need more than one Sata cable cuz if you're putting in hard dis drives ssds and multiple controllers like this chances are you'll need more power for all of these different things bit of a fiddle and loads of extra cables but luckily because of the positioning of the GPU it should be fairly easy to install an extra sat cable if you need it into the power supply unit obviously that comes with your PSU so being modular it's fairly easy to install when you need to so for sorting out the USB problem with this build I actually end up using corsair's USB hubs I mentioned NZ XT earlier Leon Lee also does one so there are various different options but like the NZ XT one this is a four port USB hob it's also magnetic so it will stick to the case so rather than needing stickers so that's better official but I'm plugging in the multiple different controllers into it and then using that to then control them via One USB connection it requires SATA power so it needs to be connected to PSU and obviously to your motherboard but then that means that you are freeing up the other ports so I have one port dedicated to the all-in-one pump and then the other one is dedicated to all these other controllers so lots of controllers to deal with lots of cables to deal with make sure they're all connected up and obviously you can see my cable messed here it is a mess and I'm aware of that so just feel free to criticize if you want to and then we're plugging in the graphics card so this is my 4090 and you'll get an idea of the size and what I was talking about earlier with the support bracket for it and don't forget that obviously notching it back in on the rear and then putting those standoffs down on that flap to hold it in place and that'll secure it nicely and then we have the 600 WT stre cable so this plugs in you've got to be careful not to put tension on it but the good news is I found that it doesn't really have an issue because of the size of the case it's not pressing up against the cable with the glass and because of where I've got the motherboard position you can see that you can see plenty of the cable and you can make it look pretty neat and get maximum RGB lighting going on there as well so I'm actually really pleased with how this has come out at the end it looks really nice as my main build and I'm really happy with the overall design of it it is a little bit fiddly though and again there's another cable that needs to be plugged into this and obviously you need that special cable from your PSU to connect up to the other end of that PCI cable too and then you need to make sure it's connected up to the controller and then that that's all powered again I've done separate videos on those streamers if you're a bit confused or if you want to know more about them and how to set them up but they are pretty nifty they just work as extension leads so it's basically neatening things up and allowing you to sync the RGB across the case even more so if you're really into RGB that's the way to go but you can see it does complicate things a bit and then I've got the other leanly Infinity controll there which I'm using for the system case fans so the ones that I installed on the bottom of the case and the top of the case and that single one at the rear that's not necessary but I thought it was worth showing the logic of how I've done it you could just use the all-in-one cooler controller instead and still connect up most of those fans with the exception of the rear one and then once that's done even if you do have a cable shame I'm happy to report that you can close the SSD tray on that the magnets just pop in there and it's held in place and then you can put the door on and obviously we've got that venting at the rear for the hard dis Drive fan and for the power supply unit and so should have good calling and it does shut nicely and then this is the final result and one of many different styles of build that you can do in this case which as I said I have demonstrated now if you want to see a video in depth on all the different things that you can do with it all the different formats if you want encouragement for maybe considering something else or maybe you want to do upright GPU mounting for example then check out the links in the description but as a standard build I think it looks absolutely stunning this has been the provoke Pro and I hope you enjoyed this video if you did subscribe and check out the links in the description to find out more thanks very much for watching you've made it right to the end of the video you brilliant Legend you if you've enjoyed it click that subscribe button give me a thumbs up and drop me a comment down below if you've got any questions if you really enjoyed it consider joining the channel and see the benefits of doing so check out these other videos you might well find them interesting or useful and most importantly have a great life

Channel: The Provoked Prawn

Views: 62,081

Keywords: Provoked Prawn, The Provoked Prawn, O11DEXL-X, O11DEXL-W, O11D EVO XL, O11 Dynamic EVO XL, O11 Dynamic EVO XL features, O11 Dynamic EVO XL review, O11 Dynamic EVO XL guide, O11 Dynamic EVO XL builds

Id: RjUwRy6FOs8

Length: 56min 14sec (3374 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 12 2023