Learn Sharpening - Prerequisite Course #07

welcome back to worth the effort boy working and the seventh episode in our prerequisite course series and this one we're going to talk about how to start sharpening your tool because in case you didn't know it everything you do in the craft is designed to efficiently doe your tools and if you can't sharpen you just can't work now I was in the same boat as a lot of y'all starting out and then sharpening kind of seemed like a black art to me and a lot of the people that were telling teaching how to sharpen seem like cult fanatics I mean the vigor with them saying that this is the only way to accomplish a certain task was extreme and a lot of times it was you needed to buy something specific in order to sharpen the way they do so you always had to take everything you read with a grain of salt even the stuff that I'm about to say now I might be advocating one way or the other simply because it works for me but a lot of times that also means that I spent my money a certain way and maybe I'm just validating my choice to the west pet money but no matter what you do sharp it comes down to one very simple philosophy you have two annuals and they have got to meet for infinity those rays have to extend out no matter how much you put it under a magnifying glass it's always going to look the same - Ray's going to infinity if you ever have any kind of curve on the end it's a dull tool even if you have magnified down to no 12000 magnification if there's a roundness it is a dull tool now that might be so my new lead okay doesn't really matter and there that's a key factor because while a lot of times you see people advocating for getting the ultimate sharpness in their tool many times it's just not that necessary to get a specific task done a carpenter does not need the same sharpness as a letter carver neither does a furniture maker a power tool like my lathe I sharpened on a hundred and eighty grit wheel I would never sharpen that my chisel them using hand pressure to make smooth cuts the power of the lathe compensates for a little bit Donis same with your bandsaw your table saw those tools typically are not going to be as sharp as a fine hand tool that you're getting the ultimate finish off of but then again they don't need to be and because all sharpening comes down to just getting two planes going forever into infinity you really only need to adopt one or two methods of sharpening to reach that task now I will tell you this all the sharpening in my mind comes down to doing three things to get a sharp tool you can either sand to an edge you can slice to an edge or you can smushed an edge sanding isn't some kind of abrasion and that's either done with sand papers or some kind of stone or wheels slicing a lot of times is something used with something like a mill file and if you've ever sharpened your lawnmower blade with this right here you're basically taking thin slices of metal off to create that edge and then smishing is something like you would do with a card scraper where you're actually folding metal until you get a perfect edge so let's start talking about sanding now when we're talking about braiding we're either talking about using some kind of sandpaper or a stone via a water stone oil stone or nowadays a lot of times we're talking about DMT our diamond stones and I'm gonna be basically talking about woodworking tools that I use around the bench I do know that attaching sandpaper to some kind of flat substrate be it a piece of float glass or a marble tile or anything that is a very inexpensive way to get into the realm of sharpening it's also the most expensive way to stay in the realm of sharpening but it is completely valid I know denim or the leave valley people that do those hand tool schools every time they set up he brings out you know his big marble scientifically flattened block and he has several rolls of sandpaper and he'll spritz down that block lay out a roll rip it off and he will spend all day long doing sharpening demonstrations maintaining the edges of all the tools that they have at the show for customers to try out and use and he just uses that as the demonstration opportunity he is using basically the scary sharp method but I am willing to bet he goes through a hundred bucks of sandpaper in a weekend doing all those demos because he might sharpen one or two tools then he rips it off take some kind of edge and gets all the glue off where he spritzes it down with contact thing puts on another piece of sandpaper and goes at it again it's that idea that you're running through sandpaper quite often that creates the expense but the fact that week Nielsen is doing that for their demonstration tells you that this is a very valid method of sharpening stuff I just think that he does it because he can get very crisp edges or he can abrade a lot of material quickly with the different grips and he maintains a fresh grit all the time and it's not that messy because you're not getting a lot of slurry from either this grits coming off of stones and stuff like that we'll talk about a second all you're really getting is the metal shavings which he can wipe away with a I'm actually going to skip recommending the scary sharp method for somebody just getting started out because my personal opinion it's a money pit you're constantly needing to buy sandpaper and the grit you need you've always worn out with it's a big headache and the idea that setting it out to begin with you know all you need is a piece of glass of some adhesive and some sandpaper well you know that Canada he's is gonna run you seven three to seven dollars all that sandpaper you're gonna want to buy to has a back stock of it and if you're just getting into the craft actually finding a piece of good flow crack glass or going to the hardware store to buy a nice piece of granite or marble I always get those two mixed up well there's some expense there whereas buying one stone that has a course on one side and a fine than another that might run all I say I paid twenty four dollars when I first got this this particular one this is the stone I first start sharpening with ten twelve years ago in that apartment I've had and this is a Norton water stone it's a man-made product it is not a natural stone which has its plus and minuses which I'll go with wait with you but the expense of buying one stone and not having to do any of the hassle of setting up and clicking those pieces just makes this a great entry level way into the realm of sharpening the tools we would use at a workbench but water stones aren't the only tile stones you will commonly see people refer to oil stones a lot of times in this country we've referred them as hard art consult or soft Arkansas the soft being the coarser of the two now these they come in different colors because a lot of these are natural stones they literally go pick up a rock out of the river Brett bed they will crack it open and flatten it and there's where you get your stones and a lot of old time grant grandfathers they might have one oil in their toolkit and they've got a nice wooden box they cover it up they really protect him when they sharpen they open it up squirt a little some kind of some people would use kerosene or sharpening laughing oil and they would do their loot dance across the stone sharpen different levels now natural stones little stone stuff like that they don't require flattening as often that is the biggest downside I know of water stones whether they being the man-made ones or something like the Japanese water stones which a lot of times are natural stones there are a little bit softer than the oil stones we use in this country these require a liquid and they work by as you work them they break off the top layer of abrasive to refill fresh stones underneath so you're constantly wearing these down to get nice crisp edges of new stones going down beneath them and that creates not only the mess of the slurry but the mess of the shavings and stuff like that which is why a lot of times people use these in what they call ponds or they'll put them in their slop sink do you run water over them constantly as they sharpen them I do know that some Japanese stones require a unique special stone I forget what they call them it begins with the end but you actually primed them up to break off that top layer and it creates a slurry of both the material on this miss stone and that's done and it's a slurry that free-floating abrasives that actually does a sharpening and not so much the stone itself but as you can tell it is a bit of a messy process and it's also a wearing process the reason why you're constantly replacing sandpaper with the scary sharp method is because you are basically dulling the sandpaper as you go along well with water stones you're doing the top layer and then removing it to expose the bottom layer which means that they wear quite quickly see these man-made Norton ones that I tend to like which means you're constantly having to flatten them there's some maintenance involved with it now there is an old trick that a lot of old-timers they would always carry three stones in their toolkit because if you have three surfaces that you rub together eventually they will become completely flat because one will work off the high spots of the other and then you bring in a fresh one that has different high spots that will work off those and you go back and forth and you end up with a completely flat surface in fact that's actually how the Romans made mirrors they would take a metal with abrasives and then they would do multiple versions - together until they became mere smooth side note but with that in mind when I first got into handle sharpening as I said earlier I bought the water stones and I got a combination stone because I've read that the experts told me you wanted one fairly coarse grip a thousand grit in the water stone range and one to polish it an 8,000 grit in that water stone range I would tell you to this day I still think this is the best edges I ever got on my hand tools that 8,000 grit just gave a wonderful polish that I do not get with what I'm currently using which is Diamond stones and the reason why I went with Diamond stones over this fairly inexpensive and efficient way of doing it was because I did all try to open up a woodworking school and the thing about diamonds whether you buy an inexpensive set like I use in my travel kit this is a 1200 grit and a 400 grit one for shaping one for sharpening fYI you'll see people talk about grits and stuff like that you see it doesn't seem that consistent a lot of times because 1200 grit is superfine and one manufacturer but it is medium another manufacturer but comes down to what kind of finish you're getting on your edges and this one gets me a somewhat greyish polished finish you can see a reflection but it's somewhat muddled it's not like a mirror finish again a mirror finish with another step but this is a small enough set that I can carry around with me and my portable kit in case I damage an edge or if I just want to re-establish an edge but for the school I bought a complete set of coarse medium fine and super super fine and the advantage of this is it's not very messy the only mess you have is what of whatever kind of lubricant you use I use simply grain and the metal shavings that come off the edge but you can wipe away with a rag students don't have to worry about flattening it or anything like that and the idea of having 12 students in the class each one having to go walk over to the dry sharpening station flatten the stone then resharpen it it creates a mess go wash their hands and then go back and get back to work versus this right here you just spritz it sharpen wipe off go back to work you don't have those grits in your hand it's not messy it was a lot more efficient but it's also an extremely expensive option then again it is a lifetime option whereas this is the second stone I've used combination stone I've had in my my years but I have to mention this over the yet last year - I've noticed a lot of my professional people I follow an admirer most people seem to be migrating to Diamond stones if they're sharpening a whole bunch even though I do not get as good an edge off the diamond stones as I do that inexpensive water stone but I get pretty close and that might be close enough and I think it just comes down to the convenience and less mess but if I was just starting out in the craft I would go one of two routes I would either buy the combination Waterstone I've recommended for years or just lately I really do like the idea of just buying two small solid not those little paddle things Diamond stones and then finding a method of honing afterwards now in the sharpening realm honing is where the magic happens for most of us that are working at a workbench and need to get on the higher end of the sharp scale in terms of tools and basically use your stones to create an edge and shape an edge and then you use the most ancient of sharpening materials leather to refine the edge and make it just perfect this right here is the first strop I ever bought and I bought it to go along with my mobile kit and what it is is you have a piece of leather on one side this is the inside of the cow and that's just kind of rough and you put some kind of abrasive paste on it and then you have the outside of the cow which is very smooth that just refine the edge and a lot of times you'll see it black because it gets impregnated with the steel that's coming off this is not a new concept in fact if you've ever seen any old barber movie you've probably seen a barber pull out something like this it's got a little hook on it that they can put on a nail or the side of the chair a little handle that they pull it tight then they will rub their razors on the back of the side one side of it has the cow and it has some kind of abrasive paste on it now shaping it and then they will flip it over and then they'll put the final nail polish on it go like that and shave very rarely would you see somebody take that razor blade in the middle of the day to a stone to sharpen though they probably did at the beginning of the day to establish their edge and all day long after that they were just refining it I myself have always used some kind of block this is a piece of flattened white oak that's quarter sawn so it'll be very stable where I glued on a rough side of the leather on one side and the fine side of the leather on the other side and this is the one I used at my teacher's desk my entire time I was running a school and every student had one of these at their workbench and the idea is that as you're using a tool you know every 20 min 10 20 minutes you come over you come over to the poor side you grab it over there you kind of put it where you find your edge and then you would give it a good 20 strokes flip it over do the same kind of 20 strokes find your edge what's happening is you're somewhat compressing the leather and the friction is just kind of smashing with the metal down until you get a nice little burr that you can feel and then you just remove that burr if you did just right a lot of times you'll see a little sliver of light as you remove that bird just work it back and forth until it falls off and this is what gets you the nice polished edge this rival is those eight twelve sixteen twenty thousand grit water stones in the shine and the quality of the edge you can get and you can tell it's sharp because you should not be able to see that edge if you look straight down on it because light only reflects off of surfaces that are coming flat enough to come back at you there's any roundness or a Knick which I think this one has a few Nick's in it so you can tell the difference well light will either reflect off of here or reflect off of there if you see any glint of silver down the edge you know you have a damaged section or it's dull and this is now sharp enough that I can take shavings off of white oak with just pinky pressure it's just amazing how sharp you can get off the most rudimentary sharpening appliance a hunk 11 now you can't do this forever this is kind of refining your work so that you don't have to go back to either the stones or a grinder which is just another abrasive just in a round form to redefine your edge it's much easier to maintain an edge than create an edge and this is maintenance and it's somewhat of a foundation of no I did make a aluminum version of this I would sold I might make them in the future where I put the two different kinds of leather the inside of the cow on the outside of the cow plus some sandpaper so that a beginner would have a means of doing the scary sharp system on one side and refining it on the other I have heard though that the kind of leather that I like to use which is cheap from the Tami Center offcut been where the scraps from the car poster place or in any place that deals with leather you can gently you get their scraps for dirt cheap well certain leathers will their thick will compress a little bit and they say it rolls over the edge to me that's not that big a deal because if you have two angles and this side rounds a little bit all that does is create a slightly steeper angle at the cutting edge but you can reset whenever you go back to the stones or anything like that but I've been told lately that horses but ginger white horse but is the leather that will compress the less lease so it's the the prized stuff to use a sharpening so I did just pick this one up and I'll give it a go for a few few months to see if that's really true so that's how you can scratch yourself to an edge use some kind of abrasive to you establish the edge and get you most of the way there and then use a hunk of leather which is something you can hold in your hand if you have a gouging you give it into a little crevice or something like that to refine it and maintain it so that you don't have to go back to the stones that often leathers cheap sandpaper is cheap but you had to replace it all the time so that it's cheap to get into expensive to maintain water stones in my opinion are some of the best values out there especially if you get a combination stone which they're generally a little bit more money but it's cheaper than buying multiple stones same with oil stones you don't have to get too many options with them they're just a different form plus oil doesn't rust your tools so that's quite a lot of people like it and you don't have to maintain them as much as water stones but diamond stones seem to be away a lot of people are moving now and in the future simply because the price is coming down on them quite a bit and there's so much less maintenance with them plus the fact that when you're using powered options that can generate a lot of heat well the fact that you're sitting on steel that acts somewhat like a heat sink which is why one reason why it's becoming so popular in places like turning and stuff like that that's the fact that you don't wear them out you don't wear them down so they don't take change their geometry and you're not having to constantly flatten them so before we leave sanding and move on to slicing as a sharpening method let's go ahead and sharpen something let me grab my most commonly used budget chisel let's take a mil file and yeah that's dope see you can see the edge let's sharpen it up now the first thing right now we have our rough our coarse medium fine and super super fine right there but you also need to be able to establish the angle you want now there are a lot of different jigs out there that you will see some of the more popular ones or something like this this one from Veritas it has a roller on bottom and you can place the chisel or whatever you're sharpening in here and tighten it up the downside that this one is I've always felt I always found it took so long could you bet we have to slide this little bevel thing on the side then when you put your chisel in there you find which angle you want the depth wise all these little settings then you tighten it all up so you remove that piece and now you have something that will find your angle other versions that people have made this one right here has a little twist thing where you can set the different angles on there then you put this in here and that's where you find your angle is how you want it then once again you rolled it on the roll on a roller to find the angle the one that I use when I do use a jig is probably the cheapest one this is a knockoff of an eclipse and you'll notice that it has a top section that's where you can put a hand claims and a bottom section that's where you can put chisels you notice that this side is round that side is square so it actually pinches it in one spot to square it up over on this side and what you would do is you will slide your chisel in there and then you will have it protrude from this edge out a certain distance to create a certain angle and on the sides they give you that distance out there but what I've done is for my chisels I like to add 25 degrees so I created this oh stop I just press it up against the stop right there and that creates my distance so there I can just tighten it up and that has me a way to roll this back and forth and maintain that angle but this is somewhat of a crunch to get established angles it's not something you need even as a beginner the general thinking is a lot of people got into this carefully measuring the angles because they found that at about 20 degrees shows a minute at about 20 degree angles it would slice through wood very easily but the edge was so weak they folded over and about 30 30 degrees the edge was a lot stronger because the angle right there was that higher play harder to push through which is why you will a lot of times on chisels you will find people going in between 30 and 20 degrees I set mine about 25 just because it's in the middle to find their edge I found that 25 is a good compromise for me but the Lord it is the more fragile that edge is and the more work you're going to be having to do by the way most hand planes they said there's about 30 degrees for the simple reason it's a frog on the plane this angle right here is between 45 and 55 degrees well if you have it 45 degrees that are a chance to the back of the chisel will run on the curtain run on the surface so they do it at 30 degrees because that creates a little bit clearance on the backside for wood to spring back so it just cuts easier that's just a common degree for hand pleasures what I would do is if a student is brand new I will teach him to use this jig just to give them some confidence that they're going to get a good edge but after that what it is is I grind mine on the grinder and I had the platform set so it always gets the same angle then I can just come over here I can rock back and forth you can actually feel when it touches both the bottom and top I lock it in to my wrist and then I raise it up a little bit by lifting my shoulder it moves my whole body and all that does is make sure that all I'm touching is a tip I'm not touching the heel anymore and that right there will allow me to focus all my sharpening on there now because I totally destroyed this edge I'm gonna start on the course but most of the time I would do a few strokes here until I can feel a burr and then I'll move over to the fine and then progressive the superfine so what it looks like and what the amount on it takes is I really did destroy this edge so find my angle come over here in the course lift up a little bit and move it back and forth I only go so far as I now feel burr all the way across it which just means I've removed a month enough material to follow the metal back a little bit at that point I can come over here and normally I don't have to reset my angle with my wrist do the same exact thing and after a little while you kind of learn how long it takes to get that bird and remove it now by doing it by hand like this there is a chance I could induce an angle but you can only sharpen by hand so often before you have to remove so much material that you end up spending a lot of time here to do that one so at which point I will head back to my grinder and I will grind from grind it with that set platform I'll remove the material in the middle and go almost to the edge I never go to the edge on the grinder and what that does it resets both this angle horizontally and vertically so right now I've got my Berger going up very small baroque going across I'll put it on the back sharpen it nope did you just see that yeah little bit there's a silver line on my finger that's the burr that just came off so I will come back find that edge we're just kind of working it back and forth and wipe it off be sure I wipe it very good I do not want any kind of metal shavings being transferred to my leather let's try this horse but I've now I've now done my grinding and shaping and created an edge now I'm going to hone the edge and this is one of the things I'll do this 20 times and then go back to the stones in normal use right here just do 20 strokes okay do it on the soft bone pause alright a little bit and flip it over remove the burr then take a look at it I wish I could zoom in closer I just can't with my camera it won't focus that tight but you can see I believe it right about half of it you could probably see the burr still there a little bit but no matter what that is more than sharp enough for me to do any kind of bench work I need to do so I taught that through it even from the roughest state me toy grinding that edge off on a MILF out what does that take us maybe a minute most of the time it's only going to take seconds to do something like that and if you start out focusing on a little bit of the hand skills of adjusting it instead using a J cos there are lots of different ways of doing jigs to hold things at certain angle you're gonna learn that if you get close to the angle that you're shooting forward you're gonna be okay plus or minus a couple of degrees is not going to make that big a difference so now let's talk about slicing your way to an edge and for the most part when we are talking about slicing we are talking about using fives and thousands then being either a mil file or something like a triangle file well they're basically just steel that has been shaped with these edges and then hardened but never annealed so they are very hard but very brittle whereas most of our woodworking tools because we want to be able to sharpen them they immediately am a little bit which means they soften them a little bit via heat processing so that they can be sharpened these kinds of tools can never be resharpen themselves because they're way too hard and there's something we use quite a bit in woodworking whereas you know a lot of us will use a mill file on our tools like axes which don't have to have that mirror polished finish just to split wood whereas you know if we're using that same axe for carving or something like that we might use a stone which will give us a little bit finer scratches and what these do is they're like little plane blades for metal they take off savings and not so much leave scratches so they remove metal they don't indent metal now a lot of times we are using no files to flatten stuff and create edges on single bevel tools like our axes or even lawn mower blades and stuff like that and we would use a mill file for something like a handsaw to flatten all the teeth so that they're in the same plane but to actually sharpen the teeth we use these triangle saws which have 60 degrees all the way around which just so happens to be the common angle we cut into saw blades now saws are a tool that even I do not sharpen nearly enough but I think it's kind of cool that they design the saws at least in America the English style saws to be sure to be used with the means that we sharpen them the teeth are almost always cut so that the saw will fit perfectly in there so all we really have to do is figure out the rotation of the song and the angle of the saw we want to do depending upon if we are sharpening a crosscut saw or a excuse me a rib saw or a crosscut saw and then just size whichever triangle file you need per - meaning you only want to fit in about halfway up the triangle that way you can use all three sides to sharpen your saw which means that you can sharpen you saw multiple times with one file because you're rotating around now these files do not last forever but they are cheap and cheap so you can consider them very disposable and despite what you might pay sharpening song is really not that hard it's just a matter of maybe pushing through each tooth two maybe three times we even we all way across and you don't have to Reese redo the flatness of the teeth every single time most of the time I would just do a couple passes on eighth key and use that saw for another three or four months again I don't sharpen nearly enough in the old days one of the first jobs most carpenters have was in the morning they would resharpen all the hand saws of all the people that were building into that in the shop has just kind of a entry level of skill most people had which tells you that the first job the beginning job the job they put the person with the least amount of skill was sharping the crews sauce kind of tells you a lot of how much it relaxed your requires to learn this skill and being able to sharpen your saw means that that forty fifty dollars you spend on a nice good quality saw that's a lifetime investment whereas if you're having to replace your blades or if you buy a saw with teeth that are hardened that can't be resharpen well then you end up spending more in the long run learning to sharpen saves you money also my other youtubers out there we have whole videos on different ways of sharpened because you can make them a lot of adjustments on the hand so I always call the handsaw of the smartest tool in your arsenal the hand plane is the dumbest but it all comes down to who does a sharpening who does a setting who sets the angles and stuff like that because of a well sharpened saw is a dream to use you practically have to force it to salt off a line but unfortunately most sauce don't come from the factory sharp yet to have to sharpen before you use them for the first time at least if you're buying ones in my price range finally let's talk about smooshing edges or folding metal in order to create an edge most commonly in our world that's done when you're using some kind of sprayer typically when you're using a scraper or a sharpie and scraping you take it and you use a mill file to remove the old edge and you like to get it perfectly ninety degrees you can use well jigs like this or you can just no no fowl and do it by him it's not that big a deal but if you look in the middle file you can actually see the shavings in there that coming up they just kind of roll up in there you occasionally have to clean that out with either a brass brush or a nylon brush to get those little shavings out but once you do that one you end up with a little bit of a burr off the get-go that's actually enough for you to use a scraper that burr is the wood metal pushed off and you can see you can get shavings with just that but that is a very coarse shaving that is not something that's gonna give you the finest of finishes it's somewhat rough right there that's kind of in my mind like using 220 sandpaper what we really want to do is take that fresh edge and then we're gonna fold it what a lot of times you would do is you'll lay on the side of your workbench start with a burnished or a burnisher is just a piece of metal that's harder than the metal you are trying to sharpen used to be old timers would use a side of a screwdriver something like that but that was back when they weren't using as good quality steel as we have today even the cheap stuff is fairly good quality nowadays that would actually cut the screwdriver so I'm using something I think this is tungsten or magnesium or something like that but what we'd not done is by shaving that off we've actually have a little bit of a burr on the edge we're gonna take this we're gonna lay down flat and we're gonna run it across we're kind of folding that burr over and around and we're dulling this corner right here we're kind of adding a bevel to it we're compressing it down okay you could do that to all the sides all the way around generally when you sharpen a scraper do all the sides that want it's that way you have a different edges you can do and if you look at you watch it you probably see these little tiny shavings coming off cuz those birds that were shaved off sometimes when you're getting it down that edge they just slice off but right now I'm not gonna cut myself running my finger over here I've actually rolled that metal over like that if you're to look at it it would look like too little hook em horns on this edge right here so I'm now going to flatten those hooking horns and by doing that one it's gonna compress out to the side a little bit so I take my edge I'm going to start dead flat pressing those hook'em horns down and then notice I'm going to slowly come over like that so I'm now compressing that metal and folding over ever so slightly and do that all the way around we do that when you have a much smaller burr so now let's look at the shavings we can make see how much finer those are and the surface itself that we're leaving behind is a lot shinier compared to what I did earlier I mean you can hear the difference lots a lot smoother and if you are capable of learning to sharpen that little one dollar card stripper imagine how much money you could save in sandpaper I mean there's four strokes and I just sanded all that area glass smooth ready for shellac so learning how to do those three things sand slice and smush will pretty much allow you to sharpen any of the tools you own but we are first getting into woodworking it's one of those deals that yes we all want to go out and buy the handsaw we want to buy the chisels and stuff like that but it's those accessories that you kind of have to also get at the same time because a chisel is only good for about our said use before you really do need to resharpen it and a lot of times a beginner woodworker won't that their chisel needs to be resharpen so the start doing dangerous stuff like putting more pressure into it so as you're looking to acquire tools the main thing I want you to remember is that sharpening just but any tool out there is really pretty simple you just have to have a little bit of tools to do that one so when you buy the chisel make sure you also buy the stone to sharpen it having said that there are some tools you know like your table saw blades and bandsaw blades and all that kind of stuff they're easier off being sent off to be sharpened or just not even just disposed of I do know that my bandsaw blades with my 14 inch bandsaw they run me thirteen dollars and they last me a good month 13 bucks a month is this is a inexpensive cost to me for as much as I use that tool table saw blades a lot of times those are disposable because they got carbide tips and a lot of us don't have the tools to sharpen carbide properly so and they're not that expensive unless you get the very high quality one so what one of the things that makes them high quality is that they are able to be resharpen so you can put them back in their pack now a lot of times of great originals you will have a sharpening service there are also tools like hand saws and I'm gonna go giimpse myself right here I believe that the first time you get a handsaw re-sharpened send it off to an expert I know Lee Nielsen if you buy one of their saws you can send it back to them and they will resharpen there's lots of services out there go online ask for some reviews of the person who is doing the sharpening make sure that they know what they're doing because the the ability of the sharp burner on the effectiveness of a handsaw is extreme it's not an overly complex thing and it's something you could learn very easily but as a new woodworker I would really like you to experience what a well sharpened saw feels like and if you're sure your own solve that first time you might do it perfectly but ours are you'll probably get you know 50 60 % perfect and you won't really know it whereas if you you have it sharpened by pro first you'll know what a good saw feels like and then when you re sharpen there you go oh I almost made it there so next month we try sharpening again which will take you five minutes you'll get a little closer and the next time a little closer I'm probably the third or fourth time you're gonna be really happy with the way your sharpen your saw you can almost say the same thing about chisels but chisels are so easy to sharpen just go for it well I hope you enjoyed this video exploring the sanding slicing and splitting aspects those are my terms and aren't going to be afraid of sharpening your own tools it is not a black art which is art or anything like that you can do it it is not complex and if you are slightly off the religious gods shouldn't be getting on to you for that one it'll still cut as long as you get two angles boy defne I hope you enjoyed this and remember it's always worth the effort to learn create and share with others be safe have fun and make your shoes cut tool sharp

Channel: wortheffort

Views: 18,061

Rating: 4.9604449 out of 5

Keywords: wortheffort, woodworking, tools, beginner, learn, sharp, sharpening, oil stone, water stone, waterstone, diamond stone, DMT, norton, scraper, saw, chisel, plane, DIY, craft

Id: M8IAMB62Hkw

Length: 45min 39sec (2739 seconds)

Published: Wed May 13 2020