Finishes - Prerequisite Course #06

welcome back to work the effort woodworking and the sixth video in my little prerequisite series a collection of videos i'm doing to kind of give an overview of a lot of generalized information for people just starting out in the craft because a lot of people when they get their first few projects there are a lot of terms and theories and stuff like that that don't quite make sense and actually confuse the learning process and i want to kind of give you a little bit of a head start with this series and in case you haven't been able to tell this episode we're talking about finishing [Music] now guys please keep in mind that this course is designed for very entry-level information we are covering some basics right here but a lot of times the basics are somewhat confusing to people that just don't understand the jargon or what the actual products are so that's what i'm trying to cover here you can dive deep into finishing world there are people that love this subject me personally it's my least favorite part of the craft but others out there you know they will talk to you all about big expensive rigs or spraying big witches cauldrons that they mix stuff up with i mean you gotta really be careful around some of these guys and count your pets because you don't know what they're going to be putting into their concoctions i mean they can take it to the extreme we're basic here in fact i'm going to tell you right off the get go my favorite finish and something you will see me use on turning products boxes furniture whatever is a natural oil it's simple bulletproof easy to repair you can't really mess it up okay after that a lot of times i would put some wax on my products just for the feel maybe add a little bit of gloss or cut back a little bit of gloss and sometimes i will dabble with slack or paint those are my four main go-to's but there are a lot of different options and i kind of break them up into uh basically film finishes which when you lay them on there they can be they can actually enhance wood quite a bit but they sit on the surface and a lot of times they change the texture of the product of the wood it doesn't always feel like wood sometimes it can feel very plastically or glass-like and some people like that look others that do it really really well it's almost imperceptible as far as uh feel wise but it gets a very even look to it the second main category are oils they penetrate into the wood or penetrated finishes they don't sit on the surface finally i kind of break waxes out separately because some people will use wax as a finish on their own but a lot of people like me will use it to supplement other finishes it's kind of what sits on top to finish the finishes and of course you always have paint paint is a very respectable and time honored finish and in this little episode that's what we're going to start out with for outdoor furniture there is no better finish than paint i built this little garden bench six years ago for a youtube video it was an exercise and sawing skills and actually assembling furniture with no glue or nails and i literally have thrown this outside in a dirt it's been sitting outside for a while there's no other finish that could have protected this piece like as well as this one did i mean it's got mold on it all that kind of stuff i have no doubt i could power wash this off slap another coat of paint on it and it's going to be good for six or seven more years if i probably don't even have to do anything like this just let it rot out in the garden if i'd left it natural or put on any oil or film finish it would not have endured as well as this thing has now for the most part when we are talking paint most people are talking about you know the gallon size paint cans you get at the big box stores and those are basic you know pigments in some kind of suspension material a liquid that will dry out if you understand paint hit i mean humans been painting stuff for millennium and up until about the late 1800s all paint was a you bought a dry material or you collected pigments from plants rocks or anything like that as a powder and then you added oils to it most commonly it was a linseed oil or some kind of binder to it mix that up and that became your paint and by combining different powders you could get different colors it wasn't until i mean sherman williams came up i think in this country uh well they're credited with the first mass production of the liquid paints that we associate with as house paints and stuff like that today and they used a machine to grind up the stuff and could really mass produce it i will say a lot of those older plants you know life expectancy of furniture makers and carpenters and stuff like that was not very long for out most of human history a lot of it can be attested to the paints that they were using because they used a white lead powder along with the pigments to create the paint powder that they then mixed in in people died of lead poisoning left and right and the sherman williams guy he he devised machines that could handle that powdering actually mass produce it get it into a finer powder so you could get more paint from a specific amount of it and that's why his big marketing pitch was was our paint goes twice as far as as everybody else is but by using machines to make the paint fewer people died which is a really big benefit the paint mixers weren't getting poisoned as badly and they were still selling that kind of lead-based paint all the way up to what the 50s 60s or 70s i mean nowadays lead paint is illegal because you know little kids would eat the dried paint and then grow horns and stuff like that and it was really a bad situation so lead is a poison and it was in a lot of older paints but nowadays we basically have pigments that are suspended in either a oil most commonly linseed oil because it's one of the only natural oils that will fully cure without chemical dryers and stuff like that you have water-based paint and then you have a latex now of the three if you're making furniture i personally would stick with oil based paints they are just much more durable in the long term and they tend to wear better you know those old furniture pieces where you know as the corners get worn off you can see the different layers of colors coming in well those are all from oil-based paints you can use water-based paints but they don't water base is going to dry better dry quicker and it's kind of a little bit easier to apply so is latex paint latex will dry fairly quickly but latex is way less durable i would stick to latex for your walls that aren't going to be getting smudges and brut brushed up against all the time and water-based paint uh it just it isn't quite the same it's not as easy to use for me so for furniture pieces i would definitely stick to oil base but understand oil base paints do have some dryers and you're going to when you clean up your brushes you're probably going to have to use kerosene and stuff like that but if you want to be historically correct i highly suggest you investigate milk paints true milk paints not that stuff they're selling in a can in a liquid form that they're labeling milk paint because those are basically oil or water-based paints that utilize the milk paint color palette i mean the true milk paint which you have to buy in a powdered form and mix up yourself and i like milk paints because oil water and latex paints they sit on the surface milk paint somewhat gets absorbed into the surface and as it dries it forms a very hard almost concrete like protective layer and the pigments aren't transparent but you can the grain comes through you can see the grain lines a lot of times with other paints you end up with a very flat plasticy surface because that's basically what it is and you don't get the character to it you don't get a little bit of the modeling effect of real wood and that's what milk paint does plus the fact that you mix your own so you can select your own color palette now i only know of two companies that actually make real milk paint uh one of them is a small family-owned company that i really like dealing with they're the old-fashioned milk paint company they have a website you can buy off of them and here's their entire selection of colors and all these are traditional colors you you found that people were using for hundreds of years the shakers were known for using milk paint for most of their furniture pieces and they weren't always all bland shakers had a pretty colorful color palette but what's cool about these is you know you got your cream forest blue driftwood was kind of a brown bayberry green which is a little bit lighter yellowy green soldier blue i use with a lot of that a salmon mustard marigold yellow lexington green sea green which is kind of greenish blue salem barn red chocolate slate oyster pumpkin and the two big colors that you're going to use are snow white which is wise they can get in pitch black because those are the colors you use to either lighten or darken the colors you can always mix them up too i mean yellow and blue make what green so you can play around with these colors to get the perfect tone that you want and it's as simple as this let's say how about we do soldier blue today i'll take just a little bit what i do is i put the it comes in a little bag i put them in these mason jars and then i put one of those little moisture wicking packets in there and i find that it keeps a lot longer because once you open up those bags and open up to the moisture in the air it tends to degrade over a few years you know you'll go bad though i've had this selection right here for going on i want to say four years now and it still hasn't seemed to degrade much to me or i can't tell the difference then you add in a wall enough water to make it uh somewhat mustardy but how about you know that's a little dark how about we lighten it up a little bit maybe get a little bit more of a baby blue to it so i'll take the white i keep d you don't want to mix up your uh spoons because a little bit of powder will really affect the entire batch but here's what's cool unlike other paints the color you're going to get will be whatever this mixture turns out to be lightened it up a little bit so that dry powder so now i'm going to add some water in and i like to add just enough so it gets to the thickness of maybe ketchup and then when you've got the right thickness that you like you can go ahead let it rest until a lot most of the bubbles kind of pop out of it and then it's ready to use but you've got to use it after you mix it the longest you can let it sit is if you put in the refrigerator it'll set for over a day but pretty much only mix the amount that you are going to use because this is protein based and it will go bad in a liquid form now what freaks a lot of people out when they use milk paint is remember it absorbs into the wood unlike the latex and oils which kind of flow over it so so we are so used to being able to kind of push that bead of paint so it just lays on top that the first time you use milk paint you'll freak out because it doesn't look right see this is it's not pushing forward it's laying into the wood it's actually absorbing into the wood fibers plus the fact that you might you probably should strain it but i never do see you get little packets of you know like the powder that hasn't mixed up together don't worry about it because one of the cool things is because it does absorb into the wood in between coats you can sand it or if a little hair from your brush pops out like that after it dries you just flick that off because the paint has absorbed underneath the hair into the wood fibers so that's no big deal but that was in there in the latex paint that pretty much be there forever so what ends up happening is you end up having to put multiple coats on to get the depth of color you want but because it's water based as soon as the water flashes off it's dry it's ready to use and cleanup is in the sink with water this can go straight down the drain no issue environmental wise just clean it up with water now you see how it's dried and you can still see the grain coming through that's because i only have one coat on this but it's been about 10 minutes i want you to see how quickly it works you see the little hair from the brush that should just pop right off there we go there we go and then you take sand i've got something really coarse right now just because it's behind me on my set a light sanding it is glass smooth right now all those little indentation rods and you can do a second coat but something i really like doing is i like laying down a base color of something dark like black or red or dark green or something like that and then the top coats you can put on it are different colors and this color will not show through this stuff is pretty high pigment count so you'll get the exact color you lay in they are not going to mix together and that way as people use like your chair or your piece of furniture the hands kind of rub off of it over time it'll rub through the paint you'll get the different colors and it makes it look a lot more antiquey because that's exactly how antiques were done and yes the more coats you see you will still see the grain lines but you won't see the grain color of this soft uh the next class finish i'm discussing are film finishes the ones that kind of sit on top because it kind of goes along with paint which is most of the time latex and oil-based paints sit on top which means in my mind these are more for interior pieces or stuff that you want the the grain of the wood to be the highlight part not just the color and we use these to pop the grain or really make it shine a lot of times it adds a little bit of an amber hue to it or darkens the wood a tad bit and it adds that gloss look that a lot of us find appealing the downside for beginners is i find film finishes are generally a little bit more difficult in the beginning for new students to grasp plus the fact repairs are a lot more difficult for example you know shellac dissolves with alcohol so somebody you know that's that whole thing where don't set your drink down your whiskey down on the on the counter and you need a coaster because if a little lick alcohol comes down you'll get the ring in the wood and you have to figure out how to do how to fix that and if you scratch a very hard film finish most of the time there's no way to repair it you pretty much have to sand it back and then reapply the finish where a lot of the other alternatives it's a lot simpler to repair especially for your beginner now a lot of times film finishes on interior pieces will look better longer and require a lot less maintenance but the maintenance for like penetrative stuff is just put another little bit of oil on there and wipe it off it's not that big a deal so i i don't find film finishes to be conducive for just starting out but i want to cover them briefly so that when you see other educational materials or people telling you you know i use a lacquer finish or shellac or i used a danish oil or something like that you can understand what's happening there now i'm going to start out the uh first of them talking about the lack bug it's a bug in india in thailand and that's where we get shellac and where we originally got a lacquer the lac sheila shellac and lacquer both referenced a resin that that bug excreted and then they would collect it off and you know when i'm talking to kids and stuff like that i always like to say yeah it's bug poo technically it's not it is an excrement but it's not poo so to speak and then though we'll talk about well what is it well do you eat m m's you want to know what prevents the m m from melting in your hand and melts in your mouth and not in your hand it's coated with slack so when you're eating m m's you're eating bug co but it's kind of a fun way to introduce them to the fact that this is actually a biological element not a not a petroleum element which is what lacquer has developed into in pretty much since the 19th century it's a petroleum-based product with a bunch of different chemicals it's one reason why i don't like dealing with lacquer because the the evaporating elements the dryers and stuff like that are there pretty harsh chemicals and if you ever want to thin it down you're using stuff like uh mineral spirits or or xylene to clean it up it's just a lot harsher whereas shellac you know everclear we put in drinks that we ingest yeah you'll get messed up on it but it's not deadly uh you a lot of people will also use denatured alcohol with slack and that works for perfectly fine fyi that's also how you can fix some of those rings on your table it's just use a little bit more alcohol and rub it in or put a little bit more slack on it because slack will bind to itself i like using shellac shellac comes in a couple different forms let's get rid of this i don't like lacquer okay so that comes in a couple different forms traditionally you bought it like this it's that is the excrement of all those bugs and you buy it in the powder and the reference the the viscosity i guess that's the right term of shellac by poundage whether it's a one pound cut two pound cut three pound cut and that's how many pounds of slack you dissolve into a gallon of alcohol now obviously most of us are not making a gallon of alcohol so you just have to do the math to figure out how much of this you put into a certain container to figure out how much is each proportion per gallon now the thinner or the the less poundage you have of slack for example this is a one pound cut what comes out of this can is a two pound cut and i don't have the can of what they call bullseye shellac which you can buy from the big box store but that's a three pound cut i really don't know why they labeled it seal coat instead of shellac they should be calling this dewax shellac and the three pound cut wax shellac but i guess that's too complicated for consumers anyways all you basically do is mix alcohol with that and you get your slack the thinner the cut the more it will absorb in the wood the less it looks like a film finish it's one thing i like about shellac is because a lot of times if you're doing other finishes like oils or something like that shellac is a universal binder it will kind of work with everything you can put it underneath the stuff you can put it on top of stuff it just works wonderfully that way and if you have a wood like cherry that splotches you're never going to get where splotches that's kind of these blotchy little colored variations across it but you can diminish them a little bit by using slack because those splotches are basically where oils and other finishes absorb more into end grain than face grain and if you have waviness you know at some spots the end grain is showing at some spots the face grain's showing so you can get those color variations well if you use shellac it will fill in the pores somewhat so it's going to absorb less oil a lot of times i'll also use slack as a first coat in like my bowls so that i don't have to use as much of the other finishes because it's not going to absorb as much shellac is a very traditional finish it's also very forgiving now normally when you apply shellac you will either spread it out with a brush or a lot of times you'll get a cotton ball and then you'll wrap it around with uh you'll wrap it inside a piece of cot a cotton cloth and you kind of wind it up and get this little dabbler thing that kind of holds a lot of it and you can work it in and if you work it in over time and keep coming back to it that's a variation of a french polish you've probably heard that term before now what i have right here this is a two pound cut they don't tell you that on the can but that's what it is a d wax shellac and that's what i like using the most uh to create a one pound cut of dewax slack basically i fill my jar up halfway with this stuff and then i will fill the rest of it up with alcohol and that basically cuts it in half so this is what i use in a lot of my wood turning and a lot of my work because i like this level of film finish and what now they do as i said earlier they do make a zinzer make something they call shellac and that's uh basically a three pound cut of wax lack and you can see the difference see the wax is in bottom and it settles down so you actually have to shake it up when you use this stuff you can see the color variation of these i don't use the three pound cut very much because i think it leaves a very heavy film finish but we'll show you the difference so right now i'm just going to kind of soak a paper towel with the stuff and apply it onto half see can you see it's soaking into the surface of the wood can you tell that okay i'm going to do the same exact thing with the three pound cut to the other side now we'll say slack does have a shelf life so if you don't use it up in a few months it will go bad but can you see not only the color difference but there's going to be a film level difference and this will draw this will be ready to rock and roll as soon as the alcohol flashes off so it's very very fast as soon as it's a lot less tacky like that right there i'm ready to sand that and maybe put another coat on on of there this one will leave a little bit more but can you see the sheen difference of just the first coat and you keep layering that on and it'll get shinier and shinier and shinier very simple if it gets too shiny for you just get a regular straight alcohol and rub it down and you can actually remove a little bit of slack or cause it to get thinner and get absorbed into the wood so you'll lose a little bit of shine and yeah you can really start to see the shine difference now if you like jet black furniture you can also use you know that super black india ink you get from the art stores because that's basically black ink and shellac so you put down one color of this and then you can continue to layer on new layers of shellac on top of it to thicken enough and it won't come off on your hand absorb it in the wood but that'll give you a really really black finish the other common film finishes you'll see out there are variations of polyurethane and wipe on poly danish oil all these tongue oil that kind of stuff and that's when you're getting into these mixtures and cocktails and you kind of have to refer to a lot of experts because one's brand's danish oil is not going to be the same as another brand's danish oil not even in the same chemicals being used and these are all going to be petroleum-based products and i will say this when i first started woodworking you know i was a follower of the new yankee workshop and he was polling everything danish oil all that kind of stuff and i could never really get very good results because it was an obviously film finish when you put it on it just sat on top of the wood and you could see streaks from whatever i was using apply and stuff like that i didn't get good results until i heard somebody say well use wipe on or cut it back and basically the difference between well there's a lot of differences but the main thing between regular polyurethane and what they call wipe-on is this has the less poly in it it's more of the dryers the mineral spirits or the or the paint thinner that they are using and that just evaporates off quicker but the advantage i found is if i thinned it out with paints mineral spirits or paint thinner was it seemed to soak into the wood a little bit more and kind of level out on its own it was when it was thick and goopy that it left the ridges so if you're applying it with a paint brush or something like apply apply thin coats just a lot of them to get to your thickness desired like and now seem to give you a little bit flatter surface but unlike shellac and lacquer which will actually burn into the layer underneath it that's why they are so cool you can just keep putting layers upon layers upon layers when you start doing the polys and stuff like that technically they don't stick to themselves they don't merge together they need to bind to each other via putting scratches in the layer that's going underneath it so it will sit in those scratches and kind of bind that way it needs a little bit of a mechanical lock to it so you have to sand in between coats but generally you're going to be sanding in between clothes because there'll be little dust nibs and stuff like that that you want to get out before you put the next layer on and on as you build up layers that very last layer that you're not going to want to sand so again it will be perfect make that a pretty thin layer so it will level itself out and by then i mean diluted but personally when you're just starting out yeah stay away from those they'll they reap they smell your whole place will be yeah just there are a lot of easier options namely oils i really like oil finishes i use oil in pretty much everything i make especially the stuff i use to sell they're very easy applied basically you just flood it on the wood let it sit for five ten minutes or until it stops soaking it in and then wipe it off now if you have a really punky wood you know it'll just continue to soak in forever so that's a lot of times where i will use shellac first to kind of plug the pores so not as much will soak in now is oil going to provide a perfect protective finish i'm going to say no i mean not noticeably it's your wood's going to have as much finish as it had regularly it it's mainly a cosmetic thing yes it does harden up the very outside of the wood by such a thin area because what happens is uh when you apply an oil that dries and from my understanding there's only three or four natural oils that will fully cure become hard and that is walnut oil the flaxseed oil which is where they get boiled linseed oil tung oil the true tongue oil 100 tongue oil and that comes from china or that area and one other i'm just drawing a blank right now but what though you apply those in a very thin coat so oxygen can get all around the molecules and those oils will actually absorb the oxygen in fact from my understanding boiled linseed oil will absorb so much oxygen it gains about 10 percent of its weight but that's a very thin coat if you apply it really thick it will take a very long time to cure and that's one of the reasons why a lot of people don't like oils because i use walnut oil quite a bit mainly because i um a lot of times i'm short on cash and i get this next to the salad dressing in the grocery store this is something people put into food and it's a pure um roasted walnut oil i lay it on there and it might take a full week or two to fully cure now i will apply a coat of oil one day and then apply another coat of oil the next day and those kind of build up over time and then you set it aside and in a week or two it's got a nice solid almost a slightly film finish because it is built up because some people don't like it taking so long normal linseed oil not the what they call boiled linseed oil it'll take a good week to cure they add dr metallic dryers to linseed oil and then they caught boiled linseed oil it's not necessarily cooked or heated or boiled those dryers will speed up the drying process but there there there are chemicals out there but boil linseed oil you can apply in the evening and then the next day come out it's going to be pretty cured now i do have uh there is a couple companies that process oils they don't necessarily add stuff to them but it's the their filtering process the roasting processes that kind of stuff it does enhance it i'm a big fan of mahoney's oil which is a 100 percent walnut oil same as i get in the grocery store but they've done some processing to it so it cures much faster and much harder curing naturally over a couple weeks walnut oil isn't the hardest cured product but it is solid but i want you to think about this i put walnut oil on a bowl a salad bowl my customer takes it they put their salads in them they have the fork to knife they're scratching it all up they look at it after a few months they see all those scratch marks and then go how can i make it better well what's the repair pour a little this on there wipe it around wipe it off it's gonna look almost as good as new there is no other finish that is that simple to repair and maintain wipe on wipe off now i will warn you because there is a exothermic reaction with the oils absorbing oxygen these have the reputation of setting the rags which are heavily saturated with oil on fire and if you want a very fun experiment you know soak a rag and linseed oil put it in a metal pail take it out in your parking lot just lay it out there it doesn't have to be in the sun or anything maybe put a paper plate on top of it and wait pretty soon you'll have a small little fire coming out of that that pail it reacts pretty quickly so the rags you use to wipe on the oil what you want to do is spread them out so they have a lot air circulation around so that the heat can escape from them on the ground for a day or two that or put them in a pail with a bunch of water so that you're saturating them down through and then throw them away at a later date or throw them on the fire now having said that that i love oils this is going to be my opinion out there those are oils that cure most oils that i see a lot of di wires and stuff using the sunflower oils the sun the other oils the fragrant oils and stuff like that that aren't nut oils they will not cure especially mineral oil they're designed to be a lubricant they're designed not to absorb oxygen so if you have a nice end grain cutting board and you flood it with mineral oil that mineral oil is going to soak into the center of that cutting board and stay there forever or flow through to the bottom it will never solidify now mineral oil is something that you can drink straight from the bottle if you want to it's not going to hurt you but i want you to think about what you're doing on that cutting board you're cutting chicken you're cutting raw vegetables all that kind of stuff those chemicals have liquids and oils within them that mineral oil can hold that kind of substance in suspension and it's those substances that will go rancid now supposedly most would have some antibacterial mater antibacterial aspect to it but still if you ever smell a cutting board and it smells rancid it's probably not that you haven't been keeping it clean or something like that it's just the oils and juices have been held in suspension in a kind of petri dish and gone bad whereas if you didn't have those liquids in there maybe you just put some walnut oil on the outside to get it nice and fresh looking again it fully cured the hard substance those other oils would eventually dry out wouldn't go rancid and wouldn't be bad my opinion but i would not use any oil that doesn't fully cure now in my shop oils and wax finishes kind of go hand in hand in fact that seems to be the big new wave of finishes out there is getting oil wax blends which you can make yourself i mean i know a lot of people throughout history have been taking oils like walnut oil and then heating it up warming it up and melting in wax beeswax into it and there you go you've got a finish an oil wax blend but me a lot of times i will use oils on my turn pieces and because they're on a lathe and i have some motion in there i'll just stick a stick of beeswax right up to the piece spread it on there using a rag a paper towel or a cotton towel use a specific weight turn up the speed to generate heat and melt the wax into that top layer of wood and that's something you need to take into consideration because when you're using wax you are melting it into the cells of the top layer of the wood so once you go with wax you're going to have wax forever you're not going to get it off unless you plane it off sanding won't do it the sanding will just keep grinding it down in there you've got to remove that wood to get the wax out that's the only way i know to do it so if you're not if you don't ever want to have wax on your finishes because maybe in the future you want to lay down some poly on top of it or anything other than another coat of oil or shellac then you do want not want to use wax at all now as i said i use raw beeswax on my turnings because i have the speed of the lathe to melt the wax into it but on standard finishes you know you can use stuff like uh i know my dad uses bree wax kind quite a bit on his stuff i personally am a fan fan of howard's because i find it it's a little bit more goopy so i can kind of work it in you know wipe on wipe off wipe on wipe off kind of situation because it has a little bit of a citrusy smell to it but there's no reason that i've even used johnson's paste wax on surfaces my router table works great but wax is something that if you're using it as a protective finish i my personal opinion i think it offers a lot more protection than oil but it needs to be replenished it needs to be maintained you need to reapply it you need to buff it but one of the cool things is whenever i do it on the outside of bowls if one of my bowls for some reason is looking a little bit dull after a few months well i can come over grab a shoe shine brush to it and just kind of re-buff up the wax and he'll bring the shine back out so there a very kind of simplified overview of a lot of finishing options but this right here if i was teaching a class of new students or if i was just starting out this would be my go-to set of finishes because they are all fairly safe milk paint not going to hurt yourself with water and powder and you can do a lot of experimentations with color theory and stuff like that by mixing the different stuff together walnut oil shoot people put in their food not gonna go bad with that i do really like mahoney's walnut oil it's about 20 bucks for this whereas that little pint that i get from the grocery store is only about five dollars but if you use it enough you can feel a difference shellac i really like the uh zinser seal coat it's a two pound cut of dewax slack that is already mixed it's a convenience factor the downside is this once you open the can it's not going to last very long because it starts reacting reacting with oxygen in the air and degrades fairly quickly they used to put a expiration date on the top but they found out that people were buying the cans that had the longest expiration date away and the cans that were expiring soon just got left on the shelf so they had a issue that people weren't buying it so they started just putting a lot code that you know most of us don't have the number so if you're buying from a store that has a lot of turnover you can be fairly safe you're getting some that is going to be fairly fresh if you're buying it from a store that doesn't have much turnover you always question it and there have been times where i've gotten some and it hasn't cured it's been tacky for days on end that's the bad stuff this stuff should what's the once the the alcohol flashes off it should be hard enough for you to sand and if you're getting those little gummy things on your sandpaper your shellac has gone bad and then finally wax be it straight by itself or as a finish coat for oils works great really safe to use there aren't very many chemical dryers that will make the experience unpleasant and all of these i don't want to call them idiot proof but they are very very forgiving well i hope you enjoyed this learned a little bit [Applause] get out there have fun little we need your experiments in science if you want to play that route and i want you to remember that it is always worth the effort to learn create and share with others be safe have fun you

Channel: wortheffort

Views: 16,897

Rating: 4.9505062 out of 5

Keywords: wortheffort, basic, diy, beginner, lesson, finish, finishing, oil, wax, shellac, lacquer, danish oil, tung oil, walnut oil, stem, paint, milk paint

Id: TD9SSLrcmc4

Length: 43min 0sec (2580 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 30 2020