Lathe VFD 1: How to wire a 3-Phase motor and VFD

[Music] welcome back to cloth for t2 I'm James today we're gonna get started on some upgrades for my Grizzly geo 602 lay and we're gonna start with a three-phase motor and a variable frequency drive to add variable speed capability to the lathe this is something that I've wanted for a long time but it's something I've been putting off but I finally had something that made up my mind if you've been watching the tool post grind or build videos you've no doubt heard that sound the good news is that is not in the spindle bearings that is actually in the motor itself if I disconnect all the belts and spin the motor shaft it makes that same horrifying noise now it may just be a centrifugal start capacitor switch or something in the motor but it doesn't matter as long as I'm gonna have to be pulling the motor out of there anyway I might as well put something back in that I want now I'm hoping that this turns out a little bit different from many of the other VFD install videos that you've probably seen on youtube I'm hoping to actually go through this and look at every step in detail explain the parts I chose why I chose them what the the ratings on the motor mean how to program the VFD and actually how to do the install and get it set up and working from beginning to end so let's go over the bench and take a look at the parts okay this is the motor and the VFD that I purchased for the lathe the motor let's take a look at the motor first and let me show you what it is and why selected this one this is a Leeson electric motor this is what's called an IEC metric motor and that's just particular that's just a particular size this is a dat frame and this is the same as the motor that comes on the Geo 6:02 lathe it's got a mounting foot on the bottom electrical box on the top and then the shaft on the end is keyed with a captured key at a shoulder and it has an m6 screw in the end to capture the pulley or the gear or whatever you put on the end of the motor so by starting with you can start with other motors and build adapters and mounts but by starting with a DAT metric motor this will drop right into the lathe and there's no mechanical work required in order to put this thing in so let's go down and look look at this motor there's the catalog number you can look that up if you like so this is rated for continuous duty duty continuous you know some motors are rated to run for some period of time with some duty cycles so they have to be turned off to cool this one is rated for continuous duty which is what you want on a machine tool it's rated for 3/4 of a kilowatt which is one horsepower and again that matches what's on the lathe from the factory again I think this thing is going to produce more torque because of the way it's driven with a vector drive but we'll get into that later the amp rating there's 2 amp ratings here this is it's 3 amps or 1.5 and that depends on what voltage you run it on you can see the voltage down here it's rated for 230 volts or 460 volts what's going on is this motor has twice as many windings as would actually be required and you can either wire them up in series so that you'll it'll run on 460 volts or you can wire them in parallel so that it runs on 230 and if you're running it on 230 it's gonna be it's gonna require 3 amps if you're running it on 460 it's gonna require one-and-a-half amps we're gonna be running it on 230 so we're looking at 3 amps current rpm 1740 call this 1800 rpm with some slippage to develop torque and so these motors come in a couple of flavors you know depending but if you're running on sixty Hertz there's basically two flavors you can get them that run at 1740 or 1800 rpm or you can get them to run near 3600 rpm and the difference is just the number of coils in the motor the number of magnetic poles that are in the motor the one that runs at 3,600 has essentially two poles there's more than that cuz it's a three-phase motor but it's essentially a two-pole motor so that the rotor makes one revolution per electrical cycle this one has twice as many it's four pole motor so that it takes to electrical cycles to make one full revolution of the motor hence we're running a little less than 1800 rpm and that 1800 or 1700 rpm is the speed of the stock motor on this lathe so I got efficiency eighty-five percent power factor the other thing that's here that you may or may not be familiar with this service factor this one is rated at 1.15 and essentially what that gives you an idea of how well the motor meets its specification and how much reserve is there so the 1.15 means that this motor can run and deliver 15% more horsepower than its rating on a continuous basis now that doesn't mean you want to do that but by looking at this you can get an idea of how how long the motors gonna last and how it's going to handle overload so it's a measure of how well the motor dissipates heat as well so if you have a service factor of 1 it means it just meets the rating that's closer to kind of consumer level gear 1.15 is better than that the motor is gonna last longer be more durable in this application there are much higher service factors if you want to pay for for a motor pay more for the motor you can get these as high as 1.5 and you know that's a motor that's rated to handle at one point 150 percent overload but the 1 1 5 should be just fine for this application again this is a home shop and this is not gonna see heavy industrial duty and even if it did I think this would be fine one other thing that's down here you see that this is an inverter rated motor so a three-phase motor is designed to just be connected to a three-phase supply where the power is sinusoidal you have three phases sine wave power and if you're going to run it on a VFD in this case it's rated for a pulse width modulated variable frequency drive you're actually not providing a clean sine wave you're providing a pulse with modulated sine wave and the the maximum excursion voltages can be higher and so you want the insulation winding of the windings in the motor to be rated for those higher spikes and in this case so you do want if you're gonna be running a VFD you want an inverter rated motor and this one is let's see what else is here intrusion prevention code this basically just tells you how well the motor is sealed up and this one is actually has dust and oil seals on the input and the output shaft and the rest of the motor is entirely enclosed so these are the specs if you're running it on 50 Hertz ah just stop moving around here these aspects if you're running it on 50 Hertz and then the last thing down here is the speed range this one has ten to one speed range now in theory what this means is this motor can be run at one-tenth of its rated speed of 1740 rpm so if we're talking about 60 Hertz it means we can run this motor all the way down to 6 Hertz without without overheating in theory and you know the difference between theory and practice in theory there's no difference now I I'm not gonna do this I actually don't know what the VT means I'll have to look that up but the running this down ten to one I'm probably gonna run it down that low but since this motor is cooled using a fan that's attached to the motor shaft if we're running it all the way down at six Hertz or in this case you know 175 rpm it's not going to be getting the same cooling air but if we're using a VFD to drive it with the same torque then it's gonna be producing the same heat without the air so I'm ultimately going to put a supplemental cooling fan on the back of the motor and rig that up with the VFD to provide air flow when the motor is running slowly okay let's take a look at the VFD it is the VFD I bought this is a tico Westinghouse l5 10 so one horsepower VFD these are commonly a available I just bought this on Amazon but you can get them from pretty much any industrial supplier any you know motor warehouse kind of place take a look at the the tag here see if I can get this you can read it okay this is the the model on this is the l5 10 101 h1 you and all of these the l5 10 is the the model of the inverter and then the rest of the numbers and letters here actually break down essentially the information that's down here below it so this is rated for a one horsepower point 75 kilowatt motor which is exactly what I'm running now the VFD can actually run motors that are smaller than that but you have to dial down the current that it delivers and their settings to do that so this is designed for AC input of one phase 120 volts and there's a fairly wide range it can accept fifty to sixty Hertz now the reason that you can run it over such a wide range and range of frequencies is that this AC input is not being used to but run the motor directly instead this AC input is being converted to high voltage DC and then that DC bus is being run through some insulated gate transistors from IGBTs to actually commutated create the output waveform for the motor so again i'm running this on normal household voltage in north america which is 120 volts 60 hertz and then the inverter is going to output three-phase 0 to 240 volts 0 to 600 Hertz at up to 4.3 amps so what's going on here is we're actually stepping up and converting this voltage that's on the input to three-phase voltage on the output which is you know what you have to do if you're gonna run a high voltage or in this case you have low voltage 230 volt motor off of normal 120 volt household current when you only have a single-phase now this is capable of 4.3 amps output and you saw on the motor the motor only requires only draws 3 amps so what's going on with the 1 horsepower and the higher current rating there's a couple things one is that the current flow is is a little bit different on PWM than with than with a normal sinusoidal waveform but the other thing is going on is that this is actually rated for a hundred and fifty percent overload for one minute the idea being that the VFD can provide additional current that's required to start a motor in in hard starting conditions where it's got a load on it so you can actually draw 150 percent rated power for up to a minute and this VFD will handle that now if if you didn't have a VFD that can handle that you just wouldn't be able to start the motor is hard not a big deal and this one is actually ul listed surprise surprise okay so we've got the motor and we've got the VFD I do not want to just go stuff all this stuff into the lathe and then start wiring it up for a couple reasons one is that I don't want to discover if I have a problem and I need to use the lathe at I have to rip everything back out in order to put the old motor back in so I'd like to know that everything is working I'd also like to get all the programming sorted out and you know figure out if there's anything else that I'm going to need to buy or you know that I don't have on hand I'd like the installation in the lathe that goes smoothly especially since I'm going to be taking the controls on the lathe apart to remotely control the VFD and what's all that stuff sun wired I do not want to have to put that back so let's start by looking at the wiring on the motor the electrical connections on this motor are all in this box on the top so let's start by opening that up to take a look at what we've got okay this is what's referred to as a nine wire motor so what's happening in here is there are nine wires that are coming up from the various coils in the motor body to these nine terminals on the top now it's a three-phase motor we're actually only going to connect three wires to this but the reason you've got nine wires coming up is because it's is a dual voltage motor it can either be wired to run 230 volts or 460 and the way you do that is by shorting the wires together and connecting them in different combinations to either put the coils in series or to put them in parallel so there's a wiring diagram see if you can see that there's a wiring diagram here on the inside of the lid showing low-voltage which on the nameplate is 230 volts and high voltage which is 460 so if you have high voltage you want you to shorted to you 5 V 2 to V 5 w2 to W 5 and if you look that's exactly what we have is those three shorting bars are up on the top and then the phases are connected down here that's high voltage we want low voltage which means we have to connect the bottom two terminals in each set which means we have to move these shorting bars down to here and we need to connect the three on the top here together now I don't have shorting bars for those so once I move these down I'll just go ahead and move all three of those onto the same terminal and so they'll be connected so that's easy the other thing we need to do is need to connect to ground now I've actually seen other videos where people are thinking that these are the ground terminals that you're supposed to use and yes these are ground terminals and can be used but they're outside the box I don't know of how well you can see it but this little shiny spot right down here inside is a ground terminal that's inside the box it's hard to get to but if you take out this one screw and move this block it's easy to get a wire down onto that and that's what we're going to do before I go any further the other thing that I want to address is right now the cable entry is through this gland right here on this side side of the motor and that will be pointing straight up when the motor is on the back of the lathe and I would instead like the cable to come in from this side so we're gonna pull this box and rotate it 90 degrees so let's start by just pulling the box off just to make it easier to get it everything else and then this box just comes free and you have to sort of wiggle it a little bit to get it off and there's a gasket on the bottom here that seals it to the frame of the motor so let's start by moving the shorty bars ha you know what the shorting bars were stacked up they did provide extras so I am gonna use those ok and that's the motor rewired for low voltage bars their bars across the top okay now the phases come in and connect to these bottom terminals actually you know they could be the middle terminals too so the three phases are going to connect here and the ground is gonna connect here okay here's the cable that I'm gonna use this is an SEO Oh W cord so it's flexible it's got four conductors inside green for ground plus the three phases and this is going to be oil resistant flexible rated up to 600 volts so this should be a good service cord to use for this application and I have to strip the end of it it's going to be coming in here and I want to have enough wire to bring the ground around and connect it down on the bottom so I'll strip about this much of it and see where that leaves it's probably all probably strip it just a little bit longer now I'm just very carefully slitting this with a utility knife and know this is not the right way to do it my hope is that by just scoring it I'll then be able to tear it I didn't cut all the way through the insulation because I didn't want to risk cutting into the wires underneath but I just scored it and then that's allowing me to peel it because cable gland has a rubber grip on it and there's actually a little piece of membrane in there that I had to poke and make a hole with a knife so that the cable could go in so just run that in probably to about there so the cable gland is gripping on the insulation but we don't have the thick cable inside here that we have to deal with so I'll just clamp that down now I'm gonna use ring terminals not Spade terminals or not not terminals with a fork on the end I'm actually going to use a ring and the reason is because I don't want these things to rattle loose [Applause] [Music] okay that's the ground and I'm gonna put the ground on first just because it's so hard to get to so I'm going to move the terminal block by loosening this or taking out this one screw that's holding it down and that will then allow me access to the ground screw down here okay I've been messing around with this for a few minutes I think the best thing to do is just do it this way pull the pull to cover the frame of the cover back the box back good solid ground connection you know we can get everything else pack on top and put the terminal block back on okay there we go so we've got the ground on under there now we just have to hook these three phases to these three and I'm gonna do this in such a way that they're the same length because at some point later I may need to swap one of them to get the motor turning the right direction okay that's that we've got the motor rewired according to the diagram for low-voltage and we've got our phases connected and I've used I've gone white black red I'll use the same ordering on the VFD for t1 t2 t3 and we'll see if that ends up being correct if not all we have to do is swap one wire in order to make the motor rotate in the opposite direction and we can either do that at this end or we can do it at the VFD end it doesn't really matter but that's it for the motor wiring so let me put the cover on and let's seal it up okay okay now we need to hook the other end up to the VFD now the VFD has a series of terminals down here on the front it's actually got two rows of terminals the ones up on the top are low voltage and those except for the relay which could be higher voltage but these terminals are for external controls and analog input and output but it's these these are the control circuits of the VFD there's also a serial connector so you can hook it up to a bus system to control it and then the power terminals are down here below there's two ground terminals that are attached to the heatsink and then you've got l1 and l3 which are the line and neutral they're on a three-phase input there would be three input terminals here but there's only two on this one and then the three output phase is to go to the motor so I'm gonna go ahead and hook the motor up this is the other end of the cable that it's attached that we just attached to the motor and I basically gave it the same treatment I just stripped it down and crimp terminals on the end now I used a ring terminal for the ground because we have an exposed screw to put that under but for the three phases I used forked terminals here because they have to go into the into the the screw lugs on the on the front the screw terminal so let's connect the ground first and then we loosen all these screws and we'll put the we'll connect the three phases to t1 t2 and t3 check and make sure those are fully secured okay that's the output now for the input power I have some heavier cable this is 12-gauge service junior so this is SJ e oo w so this is that just means that it's only rated for 300 volts instead of for 600 volts but that's gonna be fine because we're only dealing with 120 on the input now this is 12 gauge to handle the additional current because when this steps up the voltage it steps down the current as well meaning to get the four point three amps maximum that it could be outputting on the phases it can pull up to 19 amps if you're running this all the way at the low end of the hundred volt supply so we'll be using 12 gauge cable for that I'm not going to wire this up just yet because ultimately when this goes in the box will have a contactor I'm just gonna do this temporarily and I have a line cord that I use for testing that's already got some terminals on the ends and I'm just going to go ahead and use this now this is not heavy enough to handle 19 amps but it doesn't matter because we're not gonna be running any load on this we're just gonna do an initial bench test so we hooked this up the same way ground first okay that's all we should need for an initial test so let's plug this in power it on and see what it'll do I've got tape on the output shaft here just to make it easy to see on camera if it spins and so I'll plug it in and see if the blue smoke comes out okay I got zeros flashing on the display she's not at all what I expected expected to come up at 5 Hertz and to be able to run it okay when we unplug it and grab them [Music]

Channel: Clough42

Views: 180,491

Rating: 4.8225193 out of 5

Keywords: Lathe, VFD, 3-Phase Motor, VFD Upgrade, VFD Wiring, Motor Wiring, Teco VFD, Westinghouse VFD, Teco-Westinghouse, Leeson Motor, 1HP motor, Motor Nameplate, L510

Id: apQKgs_D0DM

Length: 24min 16sec (1456 seconds)

Published: Thu May 31 2018