KTM 350EXC-F tips with Adam Riemann - part 1

number three hey guys welcome to part 1 of a series of bike setup videos this is the long term abb project bike which is a 2012 KTM 350 xef the whole purpose of these videos is just to show you how I prepare a bike for riding or racing you ask any pro rider if they're not confident with the front end of their bike they cannot ride and the front end of the bike start and more importantly the front tire this is the preferred tire of the motor ex KTM off-road team it's the Pirelli scorpion MX mid soft the only downfall is that being a soft tire they do wear out quickly especially if you're cornering quite aggressively you'll see the knobs on the side start to chip this one this tire has pretty much had its day you can see most of the way around I've broken off all these side knobs this time around I've gone for a bit more of a harder wearing tire this is the Pirelli scorpion MX extra X it's a new tire on the market I haven't actually used one yet so today is going to be a good test run as you can see the main difference is it's got beefier side knobs so you've got a 12 mil spanner for the rim lock axle spanner tire levers pump and a t-bar with an 8 10 12 bit of grease I'll show you why later okay first things first get your 10 mil t-bar and just back off these axle clamp bolts you don't have to whine them out you just back them off then with your axle spanner now don't don't take that nut all the way out just wind it all this to the last thread and leave it there reason being is that most of the time your accents really stiff by leaving that out a bit you can just give it a whack and it cracks the axle free all the way so even now I could just grab that and we're out let as much air out of the tube as you possibly can back off the rim lock don't undo the nut all the way just back it right out I'm doing this all outside in the bush just to show you how easy it is you don't need the luxury of a workshop to change a tire just kneel into the wheel and break the bead front tires are so easy especially if you've got a soft front tire that's already off that side break the bead away that side done I just go offset to the valve and the rim lock here just move over to this side a bit won't go into too much detail about actually changing the tire you've all got your own methods I'm sure but it's so easy front ties are very easy just get it started beauty about these tire levers is that they just grab the inside of the tire and you can generally get away with some fast tire changes without pinching the tube once you've got to about their halfway you can just rip it off the rest of the way get either side boom off okay just locate the tubing silts see it's poking through right there just pull it out take the tube out completely make sure that it's right out of the valley just pull it up like that put your foot on the tire grab your tire lever and with that little lip of the lever let's put it over and push it through a bit get over front wheels front ties are so easy like that that's as good as off just peel it the rest of the way done now at some point in time someone's gone and put talcum powder on a tube and the rest of the world followed I'm not sure why talcum powder is probably good if you've got a rash on your arse or something but for a tube and a motorbike I found the best thing that I use the best thing to use for me is grease there's a lot of good rubber greases on the market and the whole point of greasing the tube is to let it squirm inside the tire when you're ripping along its speed and hitting rocks the whole reason you get is because its fire pushes against the rim and in the process pinches the tube now you've all heard of a pinch flat when a pinch flat occurs it's because you've hit a rock or something at high speed and the tire grips the tube and just pinches it and you can see how easy you could get a pair of pliers anything and just pinch that pinch a hole in it when it's greased I can look you can barely even grab it you'll find that once you've got half of it covered you can use that grease and the grease on the gloves just work all the way around you just push down on your tire it kind of opens up just plop it in there like that have a bit of pressure in the tube makes it a bit easier and you can just feed it in without even touching it really just open it up and it will slot itself in kind of help it in there so start with the rim lock and the valve hole the base just line up the valve as best you can close to it don't worry about getting it in yet and just make sure that you get the rim lock down in one side of the bead first like that we're on and then from here you can basically fit the tire halfway on by hand just grabbing the other side with your fingers sort of help that bead come over the rim and you push down rest that into your knee push down with this hand pull the tire up with this hand and kind of feed it on sort of like a tire machine and we're on that's one side you can see that valve stems right at the hole and to get that in there you just come around the back there's the valve hole just lift the tire up like that you can get your hand in the back just to help it and just poke it through like that it's that easy one very important thing you've got a check which I forgot to show you is the rotation of the tire a lot of tires like this are designed to work one way you can see that chiseled edge which in rotation is the the rear edge of the tire this is your steering or braking edge of the knob they've taped that away for what I don't know whatever the design is but this is a one direction tire you have to check that I completely flipped it I've just put that on as too busy showing you the other split things but anyway look for the rotation of the tire okay starting opposite your valve stem and your rim lock just get that very first edge of the tire lever inside on the rim the beauty of these levers is they have a minimal edge inside the rim so when you're coming over it's not scooping the tube and wanting to puncture it so same thing with the other one just a little grab you feel it go in then pull it back it's so it's so easy when you've got to there just put your knee there that'll sort of keep it in place the same thing again you can take fairly big bites when you get to about there cross over this side it's all very easy right pull that lever out leave that one here and just work your way and you sort of want to close in on the rim lock last as you start getting closer just take smaller bites that bees just about ready to flip over just pull that pull that rim lock back you can kinda just have it there prepared ready to flip the last bit over it's really important to make sure that rim locks back and then you're basically home just tip that last bit on let's get your bike pump on there go for your life okay two things to check for is that as you pump air in you'll notice that the rim lock will extend all the way out which is a good sign it means it's not caught up anywhere inside on the bead or the tube isn't under it if the tube is under it it'll want to pull it right back and if you do that up you're just basically going to clamp the tube and pinch it the other thing to check is that the bead of the tire is set properly now it doesn't have to be set properly all the way around the rim it just has to be set on the rim lock before you tighten it up I'm pretty confident that's all in place so the valve caps on and just do the rim lock up with a ring spanner about that length that's plenty of leverage get your tire lever make sure it's spotlessly clean there's no grease on the tire lever stick it between your brake pads and just prise them apart a bit push the head back into the caliper that's just going to make it easier for the disc to locate slot your wheel in you've a bit of pressure on this fork leg and just push it the back you'll find the axle just find its way through and you heard that clunk that means the shoulder of the axle is home you want that home completely take your axle nut get it all the way in and you should be able to get a bit of tension on there but you want it to spin now that's bound up and this side of the axle is actually spinning so by making sure that that can spin freely it's the first part to making sure that fork leg can settle in a natural position on the axle and as it tracks up the fork it's running true and not trying to bind as it compresses okay when you're at this point nip up the inside pinch bolt on the opposite fork leg that'll allow the axle to be fixed and then you can tighten the nut the rest of the way once you've got that side tight back off that pinch bolt so it's loose again I'll show you why later you can do up these ones firm they don't have to be over tight it's quite a it's quite a good locking system they just need to be firm this is the last part of fitting your front wheel you want to make sure you can see how much this fork leg can float and if you've bet if that axle is bound up in that fork leg when you're putting the axle nut on you can whined and pull the fork leg in and that will make you front-end feel so stiff and rigid and handle terribly so you'll want to make sure your fork leg can relax into a central position which you'll get you you'll start to know what exactly where that is a good way of checking it it's just to give a little wriggle that's pretty much in the relaxed spot but before you tighten it up take your bike off it stand pump up the front brake and just push down and compress the fork and that's pretty much the last procedure that will help that fork align centrally tip them up and you're ready to ride you you

Channel: ARiemann1

Views: 383,718

Rating: 4.8940663 out of 5

Keywords: KTM, 350EXC-F, Adam, Riemann, Australasian, Dirt, Bike, Magazine, Motocross, Motorcycle

Id: n6roPN4QoAs

Length: 14min 8sec (848 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 19 2011