Klipper BLTouch Clone Setup | Easy Anycubic Mega S 3dTouch Tutorial

what's up everybody jj here and today i'm going to show you all of the steps involved with getting mesh bed leveling working on your 3d printer i'm going to be using a bl touch style probe to probe the bed and i'm going to cover everything the hardware how to install it how to rig it up and wire it correctly the firmware how you get it actually talking to your printer and then configuration at the end there's a lot of calibration and configuration you need to do to get it running as smoothly as you need today i am going to be using the anycubic mega s as my printer and it is running clipper firmware but if you're interested in mesh bed leveling a lot of these things will work on other printers or on other firmwares there's a lot to cover here so i bet anyone will learn something from this video i did want to mention that this is a 3d touch not an official bl touch this is a clone of a bl touch i got this one off ebay for about 13 and you should know the potential downsides of getting a clone versus an official one it could be inaccurate it could not last for a long time or it could not work at all out of the box but i just kind of wanted to try it out so i just went with the cheap one this is also proof that this channel is not sponsored that i bought the cheap one off ebay and so my opinions are going to be genuine with this one this channel is just funded by myself so if you do find this video useful hitting that like button below really helps me out and helps me keep continue creating videos like this enough of that let's get on to the installation first off the hardware you're going to need a way to mount the sensor onto your printer there's so many options out there to just print for most printers i would recommend searching thingiverse or wherever you find your 3d models online type in the name of your printer and bl touch mount and there's probably so many different mounts for whatever hot in setup you're using i'll link a couple popular ones down below the next issue to tackle is wiring and this is what gave me the biggest issues for a couple weeks i had it mounted on there but i couldn't get it to turn on i thought my probe was just a dud but then i realized i'm color blind sometimes i forget just how red green color blind i am on here there's three main wires that go to your main board there's brown red and yellow and those brown and red wires look opposite of what they should be it took me about two weeks and then i asked my wife what they were and she said i had them backwards so that's why it wasn't turning on and so you'll probably need to reverse the plugs here they need to be in red brown than yellow and then they plug right onto the main board of the anycubic mega s the try gorilla has headers ready for this one you just plug it right in i'll link the pdf down below that covers a lot of the wiring for this one with the probe i got it did come with a one meter cable but since i have all these cable chains i did have to extend the cables a little bit which is pretty easy just cut them in the middle add some wire extensions fairly simple if you're used to a little bit of soldering and the soldering i since i already had it out i used it for the next step the next two wires you have there's a black and white wire those are your signal and ground for when the switch should be closed and with the anycubic mega s there is a pcb on the hot end in this picture and that's also what i did i wired on jumper headers you might have some of these just laying around or you can just solder it directly and not put the header in there the header makes it easier for you to take it off later if the need ever arises to avoid soldering there is a way to remove these plugs from this housing and put them into the wire harness that's going to your printer i'll link another video down below where someone used that process it was a really great way to do it if you don't have a soldering iron if you don't know how to solder and don't want to learn just use that but if you're okay with soldering this one's a fairly simple solder job and that's basically all you need for hardware just plugging it in and there's five wires you need to connect to your printer the hardest part is making it look good it did take a while to get these wires slung through all the cable chains and down into the printer and making it look fairly good but once it's done it's always done you don't have to worry about it again it might be worth taking 30 minutes or so to really make sure it looks good and now that your hardware is in place we can move to the firmware side of things since i am using clipper i'm going to be showing you the config files i am using they are my github with the config files are linked down below i'll also link to some marlin firmware for this printer if anyone is still using marlin and wants to get bl touch working on that the big difference there is with marlin to change your firmware you need to recompile the entire firmware and then load it onto your machine whereas with clipper it's just a config file on your raspberry pi super easy to add so here we are in clipper you can go to your configuration printer.config edit that here's the three sections you're gonna need to add these are with all the features that i've added to it and i'm going to go through those your bl touch configuration you do need a sensor pin in your control pin those are already wired up the x y and z offset i'm going to cover those in a second we're going to need to manually calibrate those these two stow on each sample and probe with touch mode that way when it's probing the bed it doesn't pull the probe all the way back up into there it'll make sense later it just makes probing a little bit faster and i've done the test and it's just as accurate if not more accurate to not pull the pin up between tests your safe z home this is where you want it to do the z homing i did it about in the middle of the bed speed is just whatever speed it takes to get there z hop z speed i just left it 10. bed mesh these are some settings later for how you want it to actually mesh the bed and there's a bunch of different configuration options you can use whether you turn them on or off these are just what i've decided on but for different people for sure i would recommend configuring it whatever works best for you another important thing to do now is adjust your z extruder minimum height so since it always sets 0 0 0 and where it starts printing once you've meshed your bed if one part is lower than where it starts printing so it's gonna need to travel to negative z offset so here on my position minimum on my stepper z i made it negative five that basically means it can go a little bit below it's not really going to go to negative five you could use negative one or two depending on after you've meshed your bed that's something that helps avoid some errors you might get later on now that you've done that hit save and restart and your probe should be ready to go the light should be red on there and when you turn power onto it it should probe up and down a couple times that's just it calibrating making sure it's all working correctly but the clipper website does have some steps we should go through on the first install just in case so here we are at the printer ready to start going through calibration first thing you need to go through is the initial tests section on the clipper website and they've got all the commands listed on the website but i'm going to run through them now so bl touch debug command pin down your pin should drop down and the light turns off next you run pin up the pin pulls back up and the red light turns back on now we're testing to make sure the little sensor in there is correctly triggering next you run query probe and probe open is what it should be right now since it's extended and not currently touching anything next get it ready to run and then with your tip of your finger push the probe up just a little bit enough until the red light turns on but not enough that it fully pops back up then run query probe and you should get the triggered output next you can release and the light will turn back off after that test is complete you can just run command pin up it is nice in the fluid firmware on the terminal to rerun a command you've recently run you just hit the up arrow button on your keyboard and that will cycle through previously submitted commands now that we know that the sensor is correctly working and correctly triggering we can try a full z probe this is one where you will need to keep your hand on the power button of your printer mine is back here in the back the command is g28 and it's going to test your z-axis and so it's going to come down and try to touch the bed so this is when you want to keep your hand on the off button of if it doesn't correctly trigger it will try to just smash into your bed so be careful on the first time you do this it first goes a regular g28 measures your x y and then we'll try your z-axis there we go there we go so it goes through and does it twice once quicker and then once more accurate same way it does with the x and y-axis so now you know your probe is working correctly and it's not going to damage your bed by just crashing into it and we can move on to the calibration so the first things we need to calibrate are the x y and z offset so the amount you printed might have come with an x and y offset i used those as a starting point but i did need to fine tune it after that so get yourself some tape and something to write with tear off a little piece of tape issue the probe command that will probe your z-axis where it's calibrated to run introduce the tape put it under under where the probe is right now and put a little bitty x so after that mark is made under the probe we're going to need to move your nozzle directly over that so i would issue g91 that takes it into relative positioning and then a simple g1 command x make sure you view it really straight on to get your x-axis and then view it straight on from the side to get your y-axis calibrated in and if you go the wrong direction just reverse it and now you just total up your numbers here so the x would be 30 and my y column would be negative 17. so enter those numbers as your xy offset in your config file you can go through and make these as accurate as you want but a little bit of offset isn't going to be the end of the world the z-axis we're about to calibrate that's where we do need to be very precise so with this you will need a sheet of paper we're going to be using the paper test to calibrate your offset but different than normally running this test you only need to run it once and then you'll be set forever and the automated commands here makes it really easy to run so first you should home your x y and z axes now we can again say probe calibrate and after it does the x y and z calibration it moves the nozzle to where the probe was and that's where we're going to start the paper test so the command you can enter is test z z minus and then whatever number you want so initially i'm going to start with pretty big moves because there's a big gap there so start with like three millimeters do that much again now it's getting in close so get your paper in there you can feel it touching start with point one and there we go i can start feeling it so with this you should just step through until you get good pressure on your paper or however you like to calibrate your paper test i like to do it until i get a little bit of friction but not too much another nice command there is here test z z equals with just a minus or positive that bisects your last two test points and those commands really help with that final fine tuning of the calibration but after you do this and you run your first print if it's too far or too tight then you can just come back in here it's really easy to come back and adjust these offset but after you've got it precisely dialed in you can run the accept command and that saves it into your config file and that's all it is your printer should be calibrated and ready to go you can home all of your axes and get ready for your first calibration so with fluid over on the left side there's the tune and this this is my current bed mesh it's not great but that's the point of mesh bed leveling is that it solves for any of your inconsistencies you have here i'll clear out the profile so we've got no meshes loaded after you've home the x y and z you just hit calibrate and it runs through and starts probing all your points i do have a pretty dense mesh probe here since i don't have to probe very often i don't probe before every print i've actually hard mounted the bed here which is something i would highly recommend you do after you've got it working it's a really cheap and easy upgrade that helps you keep your mesh for longer i simply went to the hardware store and picked up some of these nuts these are just quarter 20 nuts they don't actually thread onto the screw they're just sitting around there and pressing on the bed this was maybe 1.50 for 10 of these and i only ended up using eight of them but now the bed won't lose calibration if you bump it since there's not just a spring it's bouncing off of you can touch this and you're really not going to throw it off calibration and here is our mesh it looks the same as the last time i've run it that's another thing i would recommend if you run the mesh the first time especially i would recommend running it again and make sure the meshes look similar if they look fairly different you might need to rerun some calibration or make sure everything is fully tightened down on everything but if it looks close to the same of your last one you can hit save as i would just save it as the default and then it will restart clipper and now you should be ready for some nice level printing i think that wraps it up that covers just about everything you need to get your mesh bed level working perfectly you should be having some perfectly smooth first layer prints and for anyone who's on the fence been thinking about it for a while i would recommend trying it out it really wasn't that hard to set up just knowing that first layer is going to be smooth and even every time is such a huge benefit if you're having any issues with getting your setup let me know in the comments down below i'd love to help you out on that or if you have any other thoughts on mesh bed leveling or your installation process that i didn't mention here also be sure to put that down below those comments can really help other people out but that about wraps it up for this video go out there print something amazing today and i'll see you in the next video [Music] you

Channel: JJ Shankles

Views: 992

Keywords: JJ Shankles, JJ, JJ 3d printing, 3d printer, 3d printing, anycubic i3 mega, how to, bltouch, bltouch klipper config, bltouch ender 3 v2, bltouch ender 3 pro, bltouch ender 3, bltouch setup, bltouch vs 3d touch, bltouch anycubic mega, anycubic mega s, anycubic mega bltouch install, klipper 3dtouch install, bltouch calibration, klipper calibration, klipper mesh bed setup, easy auto bed leveling, auto bed leveling, marlin bltouch, voron bltouch, 3d printer software, 3d touch

Id: EC7sC86AFxA

Length: 13min 39sec (819 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 17 2021