Klipper Initial Setup : Making sure things are all good before printing

so you've gone ahead and installed clipper on your 3d printer and you're ready to go ahead upload some g-code and print that benchy however there are a few things you're going to have to go over before you start melting and pushing plastic so let's go ahead and get that started so for the video today i will be using a voron switch wire as the example printer however the steps i'll be going over are pretty much printer agnostic we're going to be assuming you installed clipper and you have a default configuration for whatever printer you are using so we have a baseline to start from i won't be going over creating a full configuration from scratch that would be a much more in-depth video however the steps and the processes that i'll be going over today will apply to pretty much every printer running clipper so the first thing we're going to want to look at is our home screen now in this case here we are running fluid however again all the supplies to mainsail and octoprint as well and what we're going to be looking at here is simply ensuring that everything is registered and everything is showing up as it should be we're not getting any errors both of our temperature thermistors for our bed and our hot end are reading roughly room temperature there's no big temperature difference between the two the source of that could be for example that you have your thermistors as the wrong type in your configuration so one is not reading correctly at this point you can also go ahead turn your fans on make sure your fans are responding and we are going to go ahead and check our end stops now with fluid and mainsail you do have the option of querying end stops directly within the interface and as you can see right now if you are running octoprint you do have to enter a command it's query underscore and stops and that will tell you the status of the end stops at that point so since we're using fluid here we're going to go ahead and use the built-in feature and what we're going to do at this point is push each end stop and hold it down and then refresh and we can see that it is triggered we're going to do that for our x and our y and with this printer we do have a inductive probe for our z end stop and to make sure that works you can either move it next to the bed or you can place something metal underneath it and we can see it's triggered there now if you go to query your end stops and you see one is triggered when it shouldn't be that means the pin is inverted now correcting an end stop that is triggered when it shouldn't be is a simple procedure all you need to do is find the end stop pin for that specific access in the configuration and either add or remove an exclamation point and this will invert it and then save and restart so now that we have confirmed that all of our end stops are reading correctly the next thing we're going to do is what's called a stepper buzz and what the stepper buzz command does is it moves the requested motor one millimeter in the positive and then the negative direction you can use this to double check that the motor assignment is correct and the right motor is moving when you command it to and also that your motors are hooked up correctly and not backwards so with the voron switch wire here we have a core xz based motion system we have a single motor for the y and then x and z are controlled by two motors that are working in tandem so i'm going to go ahead and run the stepper buzz command for the y motor and you should see the motor move in the positive and then the negative direction now we'll do this several times i believe it's 10 times and then afterwards it'll pause now at this point you can go ahead and if the motor is moving in the opposite direction that you want it to so it's moving negative then positive first you can go into your configuration again and then where you find the direction pin for that specific motor you can either add or remove an exclamation point to reverse the direction of the motor now if a completely different motor is moving so in this case say we requested for stepper y to do its motion and the extruder moves obviously something's hooked up incorrectly so either unplug and move the wires around for the hookups for the motor or go into your configuration and move the pin assignments for the motor depending on how your printer is built and if it's easily accessible switching the cables around might be the easiest way or you might have to do it in firmware now you do have to be aware when testing your motors in something like a core xy or in this case corex said when you request for example the x motor to move only one of these motors is going to move so you'll see it move on the diagonal axis so in this case only this motor right here is moving when i request for the x motor to move and you'll see it move upwards and to the right now with a core x y system ensuring that both motors are correctly assigned and moving in tandem for the correct motion is something you will have to double check when you go to do the homing procedure so after you've gone ahead and done stepper buzz confirmations of all your motors and they're all behaving as you request you can go ahead and home your printer for the first time now i do recommend when you are homing your printer for the first time keep your hand next to the power button that way you can turn your printer off if something goes wrong [Music] now with a linked motion system like core xy or corex said if you go to home your printer and you do not get the motions that you want there are reference charts because you will have to either invert one motor both motors or switch the cables for what motor is plugged into which axis so you may have to swap on a core x y based system for example your am b motors around or you may have to invert one motor or the other because sometimes you'll have a case where it'll move fine on the x axis or be inverted in the y axis or vice versa or it'll be completely inverted so i do have the charts up right now so if you do need to reference those go ahead and pause it they are also linked in the voron discord for each printer specifically now what i normally do is after i confirm my motion is correct and it homes correctly i move on to setting my z offset on this printer here there is only the inductive probe for your zed limit switch so it does behave as a virtual end stop so when it comes to adjusting the z offset you have to adjust it here in the probe section so in this case i've gone ahead and i've already done setting my z offset i went in there with the piece of paper as a shim and my z offset is 3.05 millimeters so for example though on another printer such as my voron v2 where i have an inductive probe for leveling the gantry and then there's also a fixed micro switch for setting your z offset for the nozzle or on a printer such as an ender 3 where you only have a simple micro switch for your z limit you would go into your stepper zed section of the configuration and where it says position and stop this is the value you would adjust to set your offset there at this point i like to go ahead and confirm that my printer's nozzle and the bed location itself are set up correctly and i can use the full volume of the print bed so what you can do is go ahead and home your printer again and then tell it to move to x0 y0 and ensure that your nozzle in this case for example is sitting directly over the front left corner of your printer bed if your printer nozzle is not over that corner of the bed you are going to have to go into your configuration and adjust some settings there to ensure that when you go to print you're printing on your print bed and not printing in air so just to show you how it is set up on my switch wire here on my x-axis i do have full travel so at x0 i am over the print bed and at x 250 i am over the print bed now on my y axis you can see i do have things a little bit different though i have 240 millimeters of usable print volume however the travel is actually 251 millimeters and it homes at y maximum so how i have it set up is i have my position of end stop is 240 millimeters because it homes to max and that is as far as it can travel on the bed and the minimum position is actually negative 11 because i can travel in front of the bed 11 millimeters but that is dead space so i don't want that to be in a print volume so i can travel up to negative 11 in front of the bed but zero is still on the bed itself and my maximum position is 240 so what this means is it knows it can travel 251 millimeters but it goes from negative 11 to 240 millimeters on my y travel so this way when i go into my slicer and set it up and tell it i have 240 millimeters of y when it's printing at y 0 for example it is on my bed so the same thing goes for your z axis tell it to move to whatever the maximum point is that is safe and ensure that it can fully travel to that point and then enter that value for setting your z axis maximum so now that we have the x y and z motion set up correctly and everything's homing properly we are going to go ahead now and calibrate our e-steps for the extruder now when it comes to calibrating your e-steps for the extruder i don't like to have it hooked up to the hot end at all i do like to have it extruding in air with as little resistance as possible the reason for that is your e-steps are super critical when it comes to other parameters within your printer such as flow pressure advance input shaper tuning etc so when you tell your printer to extrude a certain amount of filament that should be how much it extrudes when you run it through a hot end for example you do induce variables such as melt temperature potential for a partial clog there is resistance there you do want this to be as accurate as possible so when you tell it to extrude a certain amount that's how much you should be getting when it comes to how much is coming out of the nozzle at that point that is something you would adjust through flow for example so we are going to go ahead and calibrate our e-steps here since this is a bowden setup i do have a short little piece of ptfe in here just to guide it and so i have a reference point so what i'm going to do is go ahead and trim it flush so that i can measure how much comes out of the extruder if you are running a direct feed setup what you can do is remove your nozzle and then mark a tick 100 millimeters up or 110 millimeters and then when you extrude 100 millimeters then you have a reference point to see how much actually came out of the extruder now to make this process easier and quicker we are going to add a line to our configuration under the extruder setting here and that is called minimum or min underscore extrude underscore temp zero hit save and restart this will allow us to cold extrude so it doesn't have to be at a minimum temperature to push plastic through the extruder this can be a safety issue though so make sure you do delete this line afterwards otherwise you may have an issue with cold extrusion and potential jamming so what we're going to go ahead do now is just tell our extruder to extrude 100 millimeters of filament now once it's done extruding you're going to go ahead and measure it and in our case here we are actually pretty close we're extruding 101 millimeters of filament so i'm going to go ahead now and we're going to adjust the e-steps to compensate for that now this printer configuration is a newer configuration so that means it is running with rotation distance instead of step distance for controlling how much movement there is per step now if your printer has an older configuration and you are using step distance you would just have to go through and do the math to confirm what that value is now that it's been adjusted so step distance is how many millimeters it moves per step whereas other firmware such as marlin is how many steps per millimeter so the same process for adjusting your e steps is the same there it's just reversed now in our case here we are using rotation distance this value right here of 22.678 this is the value for a bond tech dual drive gear extruder and we are running four to one gearing at 16 micro steps so the only value you actually have to adjust is this rotation distance value here and since we are over extruding this value here would have to increase a little bit so since the value needs to increase we measured 101 millimeters of movement we wanted 100 millimeters of movement and we're going to times that by our current value so now we have 22.905 etc we're going to add that value there we're going to save and restart and then we're going to go ahead and extrude another 100 millimeters of filament and there we go now i have exactly 100 millimeters of movement when i tell it to extrude 100 millimeters of filament now my case here this printer has two extruders so i would do the calibration again on the second extruder just in case there is difference between the two now when it comes to your x y and z steps you should not have to adjust those on pretty much all printers out there if you're adjusting your e-steps that means something is not aligned correctly and then you're getting into trig movement if your belts are parallel to your axis of movement and everything is assembled and square you should not have to adjust your e-steps for your movement they should be correct because it's a mechanical thing when it comes to gearing for extruders and because they're pushing filament with a potential variable diameter you do have a little bit of play in that regard so that's why you commonly see adjustment of e-steps on extruders but you really don't need to be adjusting them for your x y or z motion if your prints are coming out dimensionally inaccurate you may have other issues such as incorrect flow settings or your plastic may be expanding or contracting more than you've designed for and you may need to account for that in the design of the printed object itself and the last thing we're going to want to do before we do any printing on this printer is go ahead and calibrate our pid tune for our hotend and our extruder it's a very simple command it's pid underscore calibrate heater equals whatever heater you're going to be doing so if you have one extruder it's going to be extruder and if it's the bed it is heater equals extruder underscore bed is what the command would be for your target this would be whatever temperature you plan on printing the most often on this printer so in my case here since this is a pla machine i would be calibrating my extruder for 200 degrees celsius in my bed for about 60 degrees celsius if it's an abs machine you may want to go with 240 and 100 for example so you want to do your pid calibration for the temperature the printer will most likely be running at the most this will ensure that you have the most accurate temperatures now you don't need to go and redo a pid calibration if you're going to be printing a couple degrees warmer colder but if you are going to be printing a lot of pla and then suddenly switch over to printing a lot of abs you may want to recalibrate the pid tune this will just ensure that you have more accurate consistent temperatures but for one-off prints odds are you don't need to go around and reconfiguring pid tunes each time you switch between one plastic or another now with pid tunes of course this is probably the first time your printer is going to be heating up if it's a new build so you do want to ensure that you are in the room that you are able to turn off the power to the printer if something goes wrong something starts overheating running away for example keeping a fire extinguisher handy isn't a bad idea just in case especially with a home built printer you never know or if you decide to flash clipper on an anet 88 for example so just keep an eye on your printer this isn't really something you want to be doing remotely while you're in another room watching tv so i believe that's everything that you should be going over before you move on to actually printing with your printer now while you may be tempted to do a benchy or some other generic print as your first print you really should be starting off with some sort of flow calibration now when it comes to doing a flow calibration that's relatively simple all you're going to do is print a hollow cube with one wall at the nozzle diameter that you have installed so in my case here i have a 0.4 millimeter nozzle so what i would do is simply print a hollow cube with one wall no infill no top or bottom layers print it at 100 flow ensure that i have my settings for a 0.4 millimeter extrusion width and let it print and then what you're going to do is after the print is done and cooled remove it from the bed measure it and that will tell you how accurate your flow is so if for example you tell it to extrude a 0.4 millimeter wall and you measure 0.39 millimeters that means you're under extruding slightly you're going to have to bump up your flow percentage a little bit if you measure 0.42 millimeters for example well that means you're over extruding and you are going to want to lower your flow percentage certain features such as top layers bottom layers and infill you may want to adjust as needed as well for example in my case i like to over extrude my infill just to ensure that it's a little bit stronger and the last print calibration you may want to do before you move into actually printing with your printer is doing a pressure advanced tune now i have done a separate video on my channel and i'll have that link below on how to do a pressure advanced tune with clipper there's a nifty little macro built into it so it only really takes one print to do it correctly and then once that is done you can go ahead and start printing to your heart's content but there is one thing i haven't gone over yet and that is the cool feature that everyone wants to use clipper for and that is input shaping now in the next video i'm going to show you how you can slap an accelerometer on your tool head hook that up to the raspberry pi and cancel out rigging on your printer almost completely so you can run at crazy high acceleration rates save a ton of print time and still get amazing quality prints so make sure you're subscribed so you don't miss that video and if you like this video make sure you hit that like button if you have any questions make sure you ask them in the comments below and if you want to support the things i do and the content i create i have links in the description as well i hope you found this video informative and i hope you learned something new today so as always be safe out there wash your hands and have yourself a great day thank you [Music] [Music] you

Channel: NERO 3D

Views: 160,687

Keywords: voron, voron design, v2, v2.4, v2.1, v24, v2.2, v2.0, vzero, v0, v1, serial, request, cereal, overview, intro, 3d, printer, 3d printer, corexy, core, xy, abs, enclosed, klipper, skr, setup, pid tune, pid, tune, input shaper, input, shaper, pressure, advance, PA tune, pressure advance, homing, buzz, help, initial, guide, switchwire

Id: T-knWbh1Gg8

Length: 18min 50sec (1130 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 22 2021