Kitbashing a Chaos Dwarf K'DAAI DESTROYER From Total War: Warhammer

the total war Warhammer Series has always been an excellent source of inspiration for my kid bashes from necrophax Colossus rotting leviathans and god-marked soul Grinders designers have always gone above and beyond to bring to life entities from Warhammer fantasy that were often just a block of text or a fragment of our work and in turn I've tried to bring those Creations to the and so with the release of the new Forge of the chaos dwarf DLC for total World War Hunter 3 creative assembly has given me the task of building something inspired by the new roster of units specifically the kidai Destroyer these demonic fire Elementals are bound within the giant engines of War built in the image of flashard these Bastille machines unleash Carnage among the enemies ranks this video I'll be creating one of these for use on the tabletop When selecting a basis for this conversion my immediate Choice was the chaos Space Marine Forge fiend not only is it a war machine containing a bound demon it is also incredibly similar in scale and style to the game's interpretation of the kadai Destroyer so with the base kit selected I set about removing the parts required to build the forge fiend's torso before cleaning them up of any mold lines and remaining sprue tabs the first modification came to the rear of the model specifically the trailing pipes and cords that act as the forge fiend's tail I wanted to replace these with something else later on so they needed to be removed the bundles from each half of the Torso were clipped away and smoothed flat again with a knife before gluing the Torso together the fortune kit also can be built as a Muller fiend and it was the large forearms from these builds that I'd use in my kit bash the right arm was assembled as per the instructions but before I attached the bicep piece I first clipped with a small armpit strut and kept it to one side removing the struts allow me to position the arm as I saw fit and gave me the option to Repose the model slightly I first selected the larger of the two pairs of rear legs and glued the Hooves to them helping to feed into that bowl aesthetic from here the right leg and arm were then glue to the Torso whilst the glue was still setting I then repositioned the model against a ruined pillar found in the time warm ruins kit so the right arm rested against it this new position helped to lift the model into a slightly more upright posture this may seem like a small change but a theme I would repeating across this video is also the silhouette of the model my intention was to make the kit less identifiable as the original kit from a quick glance helping to sell it as being something new after adding the second rear leg I then reattached the armpit strut it did require a little modification to help it fit against the new position though but after a few quick modifications it was glued into place from here the armor was added to the legs followed by the Assembly of the left arm the arm was built as instructed before being glued to the Torso as well the biggest change to the model was the replacement of the head instead of either of the kits options though I instead opted for a bull head from the Gorgon kit but this did need a slight change before it could be attached to the Torso the first of these were the removal of the dangling details from this section of horns this would get in the way later and so the details were clipped and shaved away from here the gorgon's head was assembled while the head I chose was different I would still use the original Forge fiend neck it was a little too long for the ball Motif I was going for though plus by modifying the length of the neck it would also be contributing to changing that silhouette that I mentioned earlier too short in the neck I first used my clippers to remove the frontal ball joints the ball head was compared and more modifications were made until the head could fit against the neck the shortening of the neck was continued using my hobby saw I removed the two halves of the rear ball joint by making a cut along the rear armor panel once removed the edges were cleaned up two of the rear spines were also removed and I continued to make several comparisons and small adjustments between the head and the neck and the neck and the Torso to ensure that everything was fitting together properly once the parts were lining up I made the joint permanent with a little glue with the basic structure of the model complete I could then work on adding some additional details the first of these were the back armor panel but before it could be added I needed to remove the chaos star this symbol was representative of chaos undivided rather than hasht the deity of the chaos dwarves so to remove the obvious star I then carefully shaved away the diagonal arrows the bulk of the plastic was cut away before the surface was returned to a smooth finish using a scraping motion the central circle was then filled in with a dwarf iron breaker Shield a few of the rivets need to be cut away first but once the shield had been glued into place it gave the model a little more Dwarven flare to help bulk out the shoulders a little and to give the model that slightly more bullish look I took these wing sections from the Hal Drake kit the struts were clipped away and smoothed out from both sets of wings the shoulder pads that came with the forge fin kit were also modified slightly by removing the small tabs from the inside this would allow me a little more freedom when I came to gluing everything together the rounded indentation in the wing was a place across the shoulder and the shoulder pad was attached so it held it into place completing the destroyer's shoulders in a similar fashion to before the insides of the smaller shoulder pads from the kit were also smoothed out before being attached to the rear legs to create a tail for the ball one of the molophene's tendrils were clipped in order to flatten out the base I made the cut just below the rounded joints before flattening it out further with my knife from here the tendril was glued into place where I removed the cables from earlier on creating the effect of a tail the 4 train torso features three joints allowing various legs and tendrils to be attached as my Destroyer was a quadruped the middle joints would be unused so to fill this in I first measured the hole before super gluing a seven millimeter ball bearing into the gap this filled in the hole perfectly and created the appearance of a steam chamber or other container one of the final areas that I focused on in this build was the head the more organic look the gorgon's head didn't blend well with the mechanical aspects of the model to help resolve this I took a little inspiration from the unreleased kadai destroyer from Forge World that features a number of sharp blades and panels over an organic head these were created from More Hell Drake parts the sharp triangle sections were clipped away at the base and smoothed out from here another Hal Drake armor section was glued beneath the jaw before the Triangular arm sections were attached along the jawline more armor was acquired by breaking down the haldrig's head the jaw was removed from each half of the head using my saw this was followed by the removal of the side prongs using my clippers once removed the cuts on the side fins and top of the head were cleaned up the upper section of the Hal Drake's head was reversed and checked against the destroyer's head the armor wasn't quite lining up properly so both the head and inside of the armor were both trimmed until they were lining up in addition to these changes the haldrig's teeth were also removed with all this done the two halves of the head were glued together before being attached to the destroyer's Head I Then followed this up by trimming back the side fins that were removed earlier after being clipped back the fins were glued to the gorgon's cheeks completing the head all that's left to do now was to add a few extra details to the model the first of these were a couple of steering wheels found in the torox kit these were attached to the forearms which helped to continue that archaic mechanical creature in addition to these a few fire Slayer shields were also fix to the arms just below the shoulder pads like with the previous Shield this gave a nod to the war machine's Dwarven Origins then some chains from the blood Crushers of corn were glued to various points on the model the final step was to take the tendrils that I'd removed from the beginning of the build and attach these just behind the head the tendrils needed a little trimming and cutting to fit into place but once it's attached they help to bulk out the neck area a little further separating destroyer from its original Forge and more fiend base kit all that's left to do now was to work on the base I first compared the ruined pillar from earlier against the destroyer's arm and marked out where it should be placed from here the rubber was glued to the base and the Destroyer followed the base was then further decorated by several small lumps of torn up Cork floor tile cork is incredibly easy to work with and can be easily ripped up into realistic Rock shapes these were super glued across the base in various sizes and shapes in order to break up the empty space and with that the model was ready to be painted when it came to painting the model I wanted to begin with a dark starting point so settled on a black primer coat this was applied across the whole model using my airbrush but some regular spray can paint could have been used instead I wanted to give the armor panels a rich red but the black base coat would have made getting a brighter color a little harder so I decided to lighten these Surfers up by spraying a little light gray on them I specifically chose Carradine Gray from the tooth in coat range mix in with a little airbrush thinner but feel free to use whatever light gray you have to hand and whatever method of application you prefer be it airbrush dry brush or even a rattle can the results are by and large the same the airbrush will give you a greater degree of control though which you can take advantage of by applying less paint to the areas that you wish to remain black the red itself was achieved by spraying some sanguine Scarlet across the armor again it was applied through my airbrush while it could have just as easily been applied via a regular brush the airbrush does massively speed things up I applied this in several coats until I'd achieved a rich red color on the armor panels recreating the scheme employed by the kadai Destroyers in Total War with the red achieved the banding on the armor was then tackled for this I used some Spartan bronze and carefully painted all of the trim this proved to be a long and tricky task in some areas but just remember to take your time and try not to over spill onto the red areas of the model continuing with the metallics the remaining mechanical details were then painted with sir code silver these areas included the claws spikes Pistons tail and Joints like before this was done slowly and carefully just a knot to over spill one detail that I wanted this model to have was a degree of grime and weathering whilst being excellent Engineers I imagine that the chaos dwarves are far less reverent to their work than their other Mountain dwelling cousins but before I could recreate this accumulation of soot and other foul substances I first wanted to protect the paint that I'd already laid down this would be done by giving the entire model a coat of gloss varnish the accumulation of grime would be created by applying some streaking Grime across the entirety of the previously painted areas I applied this via my airbrush but again a regular brush could have been used too I ensured that I created a good solid layer which might seem like Overkill but this will be resolved later just remember that streaking Grime is an enamel based paint so you will need to use a thinner of some sort to clean out your brushes when you're done as regular water won't work after giving the grime a chance to fully dry it could now be strategically removed from a few of the surfaces to leave behind the grimy deposit in the recesses essentially anywhere you'd expect Grime to accumulate naturally this was done by wiping a glass cleaning cloth across the surfaces a tip that I picked up from the artist's Opus Channel as the cloth is soft and free of lint it can easily lift off the grime when wiped across the surface without leaving fluff or other damage behind the gloss varnish makes the removal much easier too as the streaking Grime won't stick as easily to a smooth surface the result of this process is the return of the bright red albeits with a slightly dirtier and worn look the recesses are also a lot darker helping to bring out the details of the miniature in much the same way that washes and highlights do to help further the weathered effect some Rust streaks were then targeted into a few of the recesses in the silver metallic areas again this is another enamel paint so make sure you use spirits to clean up your brushes afterwards with the grime and rust effects completed they needed to be sealed in place to prevent more from being removed so I applied another coat of varnish this time I used a satin varnish instead as I didn't want the surface to be too glossy in its finish with the armor completed I could work on the remaining areas which included the more fleshy parts and pipes foaming on from the total war design I decided to create a glowing magma-like effect but to help her brighten these areas up first I need to apply a coat of white paint over these areas I chose to use some Tamiya xf2 through my airbrush a regular brush application would work too but it's generally slower on a larger model like this I steadily built this up until I had a decent layer of white across those organic looking areas following this a few runes were painted across the armor in white before being oversprayed with a little more Tamiya xf2 this would create the effect of glowing runes This Was Then followed up with some Imperial fist contrast paint again applied via an airbrush this coupled with the white base coat resulted in an incredibly bright yellow that would serve as the brightest and hardest points of the heat effect to represent the cooler spots of the glow I created a mixture of magma drop flame and a little Vallejo glaze medium which helped to tone down the intensity of the orange somewhat this slightly subtler orange was then steadily laid up onto the raised surfaces leaving the recesses as the brighter yellow this created the effect of heat coming from within the model cooling slightly as it moved outwards resulting in some darker spots of Orange while the airbrushing of the white did have a degree of overlap onto the non-organic surfaces I wanted to push the effect of the glow even further by highlighting a few of the edges closest to the glow with a small line of Trooper White from here more Imperial fists was brushed on over the top giving them that reflected yellow light and with that all that's left to do now was to paint the base the cork chunks help to add a little texture but this could be built upon with some texture paste specifically some volcanic Earth from AK Interactive I chose this dog paste as volcanic rock would tie in nicely with the magma effect on the Destroyer this paste was layered across the whole base including the cork Rubble the texture paste helped to create a more consistent surface without losing detail or detracting from the realism after giving the paste plenty of time to completely dry I then dry brushed some wizard gray across the rocks and Rubble it also helped pick out the rough texture before them picking at the edges of the larger pieces of rubble and rock piles using some car carrot and gray the small skulls and bones on the base were then base coated with dragonfang washed with a little battle mud washed to darken the recesses before finally highlighting the edges with some lighter skeleton Legion the edge of the base was then tied it up with a layer of Doom death black everything was sealed in with a final coat of satin varnish before a few final Tufts of grass were super glued around the base which left me with this [Music] and here we have the finished kadai Destroyer based partly on the unit from Total War partly on the original unreleased miniature and with just a Sprinkle of my own ideas the result is a suitably imposing demon engine that would make for a great centerpiece in a chaos dual Force if I were to field this as a miniature on the tabletop I would most likely choose to base the rules around the cities of Sigmar and run the Destroyer with Hydra ripples allowing me to follow it up with a few dwarf units and a steam tank or two now the process of building this model was quite tricky while I had a couple of good sources to draw from finding parts to exactly match either of the designs was easier said than done my main critique is the head something more enclosed may have looked better but I think the result is still recognizable enough as I could die Destroyer I would also say that the glowing effects need a little more work to get it right even so it was a fun build and pushing myself out of my comfort zone is always beneficial so if you haven't done so already make sure you check out the new Forge of the cast dwarfs DLC the total war Warhammer 3 and let me know what other units from the kennels dwarf roster you'd like to see me tackle in a future video if you're looking to recreate this miniature and color scheme I'll include all the kits and paints used in this guide in the description below along with some affiliate links to where you can pick them up for yourself now before I go let me say a big thank you to my patreon supporters and channel members who help keep this channel going especially my experts here and above supporters who are Jonathan Hart matcha savitski Tim Daniel Dowling you can Falk johans Jonathan sunsteed Morgan Mr Grimm pale juice swedsman and the Googles and my sergeant-level channel members who are fair statement Mr Jared hess95 notings and paints Mark Taylor whale tussler and Philip poyer if you're interested in supporting me you can hit the join button below or find a link to my patreon in the description supporters get a whole host of benefits including ad-free access to my videos sneak peeks a private Discord Channel and exclusive merchandise speaking of merchandise I also have a few t-shirts and mugs of for sale featuring designs drawn by me you can check out those by following the links below or by going over to petethewargamer.com so until next time thanks for watching and goodbye

Channel: Pete The Wargamer

Views: 108,277

Keywords: Wargaming, Miniatures, Warhammer, Games Workshop, Tabletop, Tutorial, Guide, How To, total war, chaos dwarfs, warhammer 3, total war warhammer 3, total war warhammer, kdaai destroyer, total war chaos dwarfs, total war warhammer 3 chaos dwarf, chaos dwarf warhammer 3, chaos dwaf kdaai, warhammer iii, chaos dwarves, kdaai warhammer 3, warhammer kitbash, age of sigmar, age of sigmar kitbash, age of sigmar conversion, warhammer conversion

Id: -E4Lfz84XKs

Length: 20min 1sec (1201 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 30 2023