Jyers Firmware Guide/Overview for the Creality Ender 3 v2

this is evan with eb 3d printing in this video i'm going to give a quick overview and guide for js firmware for the ender 3v2 i will link to this github page in the description below first you may be asking yourself what is chairs firmware well chairs firmware is a custom fork of the stock marlin firmware that comes on the standard ender 3v2 it takes the stock firmware and enhances it by unlocking options that were either not available or makes existing options better next you may be asking yourself well why would that make me want to upgrade the stock firmware works just fine and you would be correct reality's default firmware works well out of the box so to say but it can be better so in the following sections i'll go over a few ways that the chairs firmware improves upon creality's default firmware the first feature that i'm going to cover that js firmware unlocks is eprom saving creality stock firmware does not support eprom saving or at least it did not support a problem saving newer builds may have implemented this feature what creality's firmware does instead though is take the settings and stores them or tries to store them to an sd card if you do not have an sd card installed guess what your settings aren't going to get stored with eprom settings enabled the ender3v2 is able to save your settings such as bed leveling mesh z offset pid auto tune and other data to the main board storage and that data stays on the main board even after the power is cycled off and cycled back on your printer is then able to pull this data from the main board and use it for printing purposes the second feature that js firmware includes is the recognition of the m600 command by the ender 3v2 this may not be a main attractive feature for some but if you've ever wanted to do a multi-color print using the marlin built-in m600 or advanced pulse feature is a lot more user friendly than trying to use some post-processing script or custom g-code by default the ender 3v2 does not accept n600 commands from the slicer if it encounters an m600 command in the g-code it ignores it and continues printing the advanced pause feature allows for parameters such as unload length unload feed rate fast load reload length reload feed rate and purge length meaning that the printer will handle the bulk of the filament change operation you just have to make sure that the filament is removed and replaced into the extruder to do this in prusa slicer you need to make sure under printer settings custom g-code that the color change g-code is m600 semicolon advanced pause then when you slice your file click the plus icon next to the layer height bar to select the layer at which you want to do the color change in cura you have to go to extensions post-processing modify g-code then enter the layer at which you want the filament to change you can also specify the part location for the nozzle during the filament change when the filament change occurs the nozzle will park at the designated location the screen will prompt you to insert filament to continue do not press continue yet this is when you remove and replace the filament however if you take too long the nozzle will go into cool down so once you have the filament changed you may be prompted with the nozzle reheat screen press continue to reheat the nozzle once the nozzle is reheated you will then be prompted saying that it is up to temperature select continue the extruder will then reload the filament and then purge out the previous color once the printer is done going through the purge cycle it will pause to let the filament cool this is when you use something like a pair of tweezers or a pair of pliers to pull the filament away from the nozzle once the printer is done the pulse cycle this is when it will continue printing here is a demonstration shep cube with a filament change from white to black inserted at layer 50. the third benefit that jr's firmware offers is the option to pid autotune from the display instead of having to connect via interface such as pronterface or octa print you can just do it right from the display to reach the pid tuning menu you'll want to go to control temperature pid then select either the nozzle or bed you'll want to set the temperature to a temperature that you most frequently print at say 200 degrees celsius for pla and then just wait for the nozzle or bed to reach the desired temperature to give a quick overview pid or proportional integral derivative is essentially a control algorithm that the printer uses to set and control temperature this algorithm determines how fast the printer heats up or how consistent it holds that temperature the more accurate this algorithm is the more consistent your bedded nozzle temperatures will be once the better nozzle reaches that temperature it'll go through cycles these cycles will fluctuate the temperature up and down with each cycle using different values for the pid tuning the number of cycles will depend on the number you've set them at typically 5 is enough after the printer is done running the pid auto tune for the nozzle you will be prompted with a pid tuning done screen click the scroll wheel to confirm you will be presented with the new pid values for the nozzle then hit back scroll down to the bed and repeat the process for the bed once the bed reaches the temperature it will be in the same process as the hot end by fluctuating the temperature up and down although the fluctuations will not be as drastic just like with the nozzle once the bed is done running the pid auto tune you will be presented with the pid tuning done screen click confirm and you'll see the new values is at this point you'll want to save these values to eprom so hit back back then back one more time and scroll down to store settings your new pid values will now be stored to eprom one time that you'll want to perform the pi to auto tune is when you notice your better nozzle temperatures fluctuating quite frequently and having swings of 10 or more degrees celsius between the highs and lows this indicates that your pid tuning might be slightly off the fourth benefit that i will cover that chairs firmware offers is the option for manual mesh bed leveling as i explain a bit about manual bash bed leveling you will see me going through the process in the background this feature alone could single-handedly be the main attraction for upgrading your firmware to chairs manual mesh bed leveling could save many frustrating hours of trying to get that perfect first layer what the manual mesh allows for is ender 3v2 owners who have not yet or do not want to install an autobed leveling system like the bl touch to essentially get the same benefits of an autobed leveling system what the manual mesh allows for is you move the printhead to set points around the bed manually and at each one of those points you set the z offset for the printhead uh for jr's firmware you have the option of a three by three which would be nine set points or a five by five which would be 25 set points the more set points you have the more accurate your mesh would be to set the z offset at these set points it's almost the same as the four corner turn the knob method where you take a piece of paper like a post-it note and drag it under the nozzle until you feel that piece of paper vibrating you want it snug but not snug enough to where it buckles the paper when you try to move it once you have the right z offset you move to the next point using the next point option of the display menu after you're done setting the z offsets for each of these set points you can then store that mesh to the eprom which your printer will then pull from during the printing process but in order for your printer to use this mesh you will need to add the line m420 s1 to your start g code in your favorite slicer to get to the manual mesh menu you'll want to scroll down to leveling and click the scroll wheel if you do not have a mesh level already active you will want to select create new mesh this starts the leveling process leveling active will be checked off once you have created a new mesh next we will go into the create new mesh menu the z position is the height of the nozzle currently away from the home or zero position i will touch on micro step up and micro step down in a little bit go to mesh value takes you to the previous set value for the point your nozzle is currently at if there is no mesh that value will be nan to raise or lower the nozzle click on z position scroll right to raise and scroll left to lower the nozzle after you've gotten the nozzle close to the position relative to the piece of paper you can use micro step up or micro step down to low raise or lower the nozzle by 1 100 of a millimeter to precisely fine tune the nozzle height after you have the correct nozzle height click on next point to go the next point and repeat the process until you are done the mesh once you have a mesh established you can then view the mesh through the mesh viewer menu you also have the option to show mesh values and have the mesh be asymmetric mesh viewer allows you to then fine tune the mesh by showing you the highs and low points of the bed which you can then adjust through the manual tuning menu option once in the manual tuning menu option you can then select mesh point x and or mesh point y and go to a specific point of the mesh once you are at that point you can adjust the z offset for that particular point using the microstep up or microstep down option this is extremely useful if you notice parts of your first layer are off you can then adjust the points around that part of the first layer to fine tune it the last feature that i'm going to mention as there may be others that i've missed but this one really stands out is display customization this allows the user to customize the display to their liking you can change things like brightness of the display from 255 the whole way down to one you can change the progress as so it's displayed as hours and minutes there's a whole bunch of ui color customization you can do you can change the cursor color menu line split line color the highlight box um progress percent progress time the status bar text status area text the coordinate text this is where the nozzle is during the printing process and as you can see this this allows you to make for a very uniquely customizable display you can even turn the display off so if you're printing at night and you want the display off you can turn it off you just click the scroll wheel to turn it back on as we go back to the main menu here you can see that you know you can change just about every aspect of the display now that we've gone over some of the benefits that js firmware offers it's now time to pick a version that's right for you i will link to this page in the description below but looking at this list it can be a bit overwhelming for new users to understand what they are looking at i'm going to simplify that process by explaining and demonstrating the differences between each version looking at this list the very first question you should ask yourself is do i have an enter 3v2 or not if the answer's no then this firmware more than likely isn't for you the second question you should ask yourself is what motherboard version does my ender 3v2 have there are two motherboard versions that the end of 3v2 can come with from creality the first is the 4.2.2 version of the motherboard and the second is the updated 4.2.7 version of the motherboard which fixes some of the overheating stepper driver issues that the 4.2.2 had so now that we need to figure out what motherboard you have i'll give you a demonstration of how to figure that out the first thing you want to do is remove the display once the display is off next take the two and a half millimeter hex key and loosen the three bolts and t-nuts that hold the display bracket on and then remove the bracket once the bracket is off you take the two millimeter hex key and remove the two top motherboard housing bolts you will have to just slide the bed forward to remove the rear bolt once the rear bolt is out unplug the machine and proceed to turn it on its side being careful not to drop it again take the two millimeter hex key and remove the three bottom bolts of the motherboard housing mine will look a bit different than yours but the bolts are in the same locations and they're the same size bolts after all three bolts are removed slowly remove the motherboard housing cover there will be a 40 by 10 millimeter fan that is attached to the motherboard this connector will be hot glued on just gently lay the cover on its side you will want to then look for the reality logo in the middle of the motherboard the version number will be below either 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 next you we will just reverse the process and reassemble the motherboard housing starting with the three bottom bolts once the three bottom bolts are in we'll flip the machine back over and install the two top bolts now that we've figured out what version motherboard you have the next question you have to ask yourself is do you have a pl touch or not the answer to this is pretty straightforward you will either have a pl touch installed or you will not if you have a bl touch installed you'll want to look for versions of the firmware that have bltouch in their name it'll either be the standard 3x3 mesh or the 5x5 mesh or the unified bed leveling mesh which is a 10x10 or a 15 by 15. if you do not have a bl touch installed you will want to look for versions of the firmware that have the ender 3v2 default firmware or manual mesh or the ubl no probe 3x3 or 5x5 now that we've determined if you have a bl touch or not i'll go over the different mesh styles for each firmware i'm going to start with the no pro versions of the firmware if you have a bl touch you can skip over this section i'll leave a timestamp in the description below to take you to the bl touch section the first up if you're completely happy with the standard four corner turn the knob style leveling you'll want to pick this default version of the firmware this gives you all of the same benefits of js firmware such as display customization pid auto tuning m600 filament change and eprom saving but without mesh leveling if however you want to incorporate manual mesh leveling into your printing you have two options first option is the standard bilinear mesh which is represented by these manual mesh versions of the firmware right here the second option is unified bed leveling mesh which is represented by these ubl no pro versions down here these these meshes are built the exact same way as i demonstrated in the manual mesh leveling section of this video the difference between them is the algorithms used to calculate the mesh in the firmware to keep this video from dragging on i plan on doing a dedicated video going over the differences between unified bed leveling mesh and bilinear mesh but for now just know that they are built the exact same way they're just calculated a little bit differently for the bl touch variations you have two options for building the mesh they are the same as manual probing that is bilinear mesh or unified bed leveling mesh bilinear mesh is represented by the bl touch 3x3 or 5x5 variations up top unified lev bed leveling mesh is represented by the ubl bl touch variations right here in the middle these unlike manual mesh are not built the same way the bilinear mesh variations are built how you are probably familiar with bl's hudge building the mesh that is probe importance in a straight line across the bed then moving back and probing another set of points across a bed in the opposite direction a unified bed leveling mesh is built quite a bit differently it is built from the middle of the bed out it probes points in a back and forth motion from the front to the back and left to right on the bed another difference once the meshes are built is the mesh view is displayed differently as well unified bed leveling mesh probes as significantly more points than bilinear mesh so the mesh viewer displays a lot more points as you can see by the screenshots presented as i mentioned in the no probe section i plan on doing a dedicated video for unified bed leveling right now though if you would like to go with unified bed leveling my one suggestion is that your printer is at least very consistent and that you have upgraded to yellow springs or even better silicon spacers the last two choices you have in regards to picking a firmware include the number of pro points and speed the number of pro points affects both manual mesh and bltouch versions of the firmware and are represented by the 3x3 or 9 pro points or the 5x5 or 25 pro points so here's a quick demonstration showing the difference between the 3x3 mesh and the 5x5 mesh these are both bl touch variations and they are also the high speed versions which i'm going to discuss in a little bit but as you can see the bottom does three pro points across the bed and then it goes back three pro points the five by five does five pro points across the bed and then it also goes back five pro points three by three and five by five are both options for the manual mesh probing for the bilinear mesh and uvl mesh 3x3 and 5x5 are only options for bl touches by linear mesh the ubl mesh for bltouch uses a 10 by 10 which is 100 points or a 15 by 15 which is 225 points typically the more pro points the more accurate the best will be for both manual and bl touch the last point i want to make is when choosing a firmware you have two options for speed this only affects the bl touch versions of the firmware but you have a choice between building your mesh at a regular speed or building your mesh a little bit faster which is represented by these high speed or hs versions of the bltouch firmware here's a quick demonstration showing the difference between the high speed mesh and the normal speed mesh the top as you can see the with the normal speed mesh the probe fully retracts between each probe point and each probing of that probe point on the bottom however with the high speed mesh the probe just goes down and touches the bed twice before it moves on to the next pro point and repeats the process so now we've gone over the different variations of the jr's firmware and you have one picked out that you want to install the first thing we have to do though is install the display firmware so from the main jr's marlin github page we go to code download zip we save that once that is done downloading we click show in folder now this is a zip file so we need to extract it i use 7-zip you can also use winzip to extract this you can also use the built-in windows file extractor i just prefer 7-zip it's quick and easy so you extract to marlin at that extract once it's extracted we dive into the folder we go into display firmware firmware sets now there's different sets here um the original basically uses the original icons gotcha and custom have different icon styles that they use um i just go with the original so what we do is we copy this take this over to the sd card we paste it now after we paste it we have to rename it so we take off the original so that way it is just named dwin set and then once we rename it we basically go up to drive tools and hit eject now that is the sd card is ejected we're going to head over to the printer and install it once we're over at the printer anytime you're working on the electronics of the printer you want to make sure the power is off and the power cable is unplugged after the power cable is unplugged we'll want to go ahead and remove the display from the mount and then disconnect the display cable from the back of the display after you have the display cable disconnected you'll want to go ahead and take the two millimeter hex key and remove the four bolts holding the back of the display case to the front yeah what would be an eb 3d video without me dropping the wrench and apparently also a bolt after the four pulls are out just pop the pack of the display case off you'll then want to take the micro sd card and insert it into the sd card slot on the back of the display after the card is inserted plug the cable back into the back of the display there's no need to reassemble it for this part once the cable is into the back of the display we'll want to go ahead and plug the printer back in and power it on once the power is on the screen will be the normal blue color but then you'll see it switch to this bright blue color once it switches from the bright blue color to the orange that's when the display firmware is flashed you'll want to go ahead and power off the printer at this time and then we'll go ahead and do the reassembly process after we unplug the display we will start by removing the sd card from the sd card slot and then putting the back of the display case back on making sure it's popped securely in place and then reinserting the four bolts that hold the back display to the front we'll tighten those down once those are tightened down we'll want to go ahead and put the cable back into the back of the display and putting the display back on the mount and then just turning the power back on making sure that the display firmware is correctly flashed and as you can see it's correctly flashed so now that we've gone through and installed the display firmware it's now time to install the motherboard firmware you have the version picked out that's right for you me personally i use this bl touch 5x5 high speed for the 4.2.7 board so alls we do is click on the version we want to download save the file once the file is saved show in folder right click on the file copy take that over the sd card paste once it's pasted same thing eject now that the sd card is ejected we're going to go over and install it onto the motherboard now that we're over at the printer with the microsd card that has the motherboard firmware installed we want to make sure the brass contacts on the micro sd card are facing up insert the card into the motherboard slot we power on the printer and now we wait a creality logo will pop up after some time and a progress bar will begin to fill up once this progress bar is filled up that means the new firmware is installed we can check this by going to control scroll down to info and make sure the build number matches the build number of the version of the firmware we've installed the final prep before printing mainly pertains the bl touch versions of js firmware there are a few more steps we have to take to make sure everything is ordered before we start printing first up is the probe x and y offset this is the offset of the probe tip to the nozzle tip the printer needs this info in order to have the proper home location to begin bed leveling for the building the mesh i'm going to demonstrate what happens when you have an incorrect probe all set as you can see something doesn't look right the probe is nowhere near close to the center of the bed as it homes and then as it moves to the first probing location the probe is actually off of the edge of the bed after the probe tries to probe this first location it'll just stow the probe and then say that leveling is complete when it didn't level anything so what we're going to do is we're going to cancel this and then go set the correct x y probe offset location to do this we want to go control advanced probe x and y offset the x offset for the stock location is negative 44 and the y offset is negative eight after this one thing i forgot to do is store the settings so make sure you don't make the same mistake i did and store the settings after the settings are stored we'll go back and try the bed level again confirm leveling as you can see this time the probe is in the center of the bed so that means we have at least the correct x and y offset as it moves to the first location it is still on the bed as it probes the first point and that means we do have the correct x and y offset next up is the z offset the z offset is the height difference between the probe tip and the nozzle tip in reference to the bed in order to set this we'll go to prepare z offset we will first want to check the live adjust checkbox this will move the printhead to the home location once the printhead is in the home location we'll then want to adjust the z offset down by clicking the scroll wheel on the z offset label will then turn the knob left to lower the nozzle closer to the bed this step is much like manual leveling where you take a piece of paper and continue to adjust the height until the paper is snug but not snug enough that the paper buckles when you try to move it you'll want to listen for or feel for the buzzing of the paper between the nozzle or bed this lets you know that the nozzle is at the correct height once you have the nozzle at the correct height you'll then want to store this settings by scrolling down and clicking on save one last piece of info i want to give on prep work is preheating anytime you want to set the z offset or level of bed or manual level of bed you'll want to preheat it this is due to heat expansion causing dimensional changes between the nozzle tip and the bed uh so pick whatever material you're printing with to preheat and then once it gets to temperature set your things the last section i'm going to cover are slices of setting changes you need to make in order to have js firmware work properly so first up starting in prusa slicer what you want to do is you want to go over here this top left corner you'll go to printer settings down to custom gcode and the section we're going to focus on right here is the start g code so somewhere in your g-code you should have a g28 command which homes all the access after that g28 command you'll want to add the lines either g29 which generates a new mesh before every print or m420 s1 which loads the saved mesh that you have currently stored in ebrom now i want to reiterate this for the bl touch bi-linear versions of jr's firmware you only want one of these two commands in your start gcode either g29 to generate a mesh or m420s1 to lotusa mesh you do do not want both in your start gcode i have both of these in here for just demonstration purposes and if i were to generate a g code right now it would the printer would ignore the m420 line because of this semicolon before it semicolons designate comments in um g code which the printer basically ignores and skips over for by linear mesh i would highly recommend using the g29 command because the print bed on the end 3v2 is so small that it takes a few minutes before every print to just run a simple mesh and generate the mesh with m420-s1 yeah you're loading a saved mesh you already have but if you ran a print took that bed off and then put it back on with creating beds being so inconsistent in their flatness you may not put the bed back in the same exact spot so like the high point or low point of the bed may be slightly off which would cause your mesh to be slightly off so that's why i highly recommend the g29 command over the m420 s1 for bl touch probing for manual mesh leveling you only have the m420 s1 option now moving on to unified bed leveling i'm just going to touch on this a little bit like i said i need to dedicate a video for this because it's this is just way too many options but to keep it simple i highly recommend for unified bed leveling to generate the mesh before running any print and then save that mesh to the eeprom through the display to load that mesh you'll need to add the line g29 l0 l the l designates loading the mesh the zero designates loading the first saved mesh you have stored in eprom which would be the one you stored from display after that you'll need the line g29 j the j basically probes uh probes the bed before the print like doing the g29 command but instead the j adjust your current saved mesh based off of the pro points that it it generates during the j command now the number after dj represents the number of pro points this number is squared so if you have no number it probes three pro points if you have two it probes 4 if you have 3 it probes 9 4 16 and so on and so forth so that is the main difference between the bilinear mesh and the unified bed leveling mesh is you can actually adjust current saved meshes with the unified bed leveling mesh where the g29 you have with bilinear mesh you have no such option next up we have cura this should go a lot quicker since i already explained everything in prusa slicer alright so for cura you're going to want to go over here to this top right corner the drop down printers go to manage printers next up you're going to want to go to machine settings and then let me adjust this really quick so you can see it come on there we go okay so again and we're going to focus on start g code you after the g28 command homo access you're going to want to add the line either g29 to generator mesh or m420 s1 to load a mesh again you only want one of these two not both or if you're running the unified bed leveling mesh versions again you'll want to add the g29 l0 followed by the g29 j2 the last slicer of the free slicers that i'm going to go over is idea maker so in idea maker you want to go over here to this play icon press the play icon and then the gear icon that brings up the advanced settings menu you want to go over here to g-code and again we're going to focus on the start g-code tab after g28 you'll want to add the lines either g29 or m420s1 if you're using unified bed leveling mesh again you'll want to add the line g29 l0 followed by g29 j2 and that is it for slicer settings changes you need to make for jr's firmware well that wraps up this sort of overview slash guide to jr's firmware if you would like to support jake or jared's and his work i have a link to his patreon in the description below if you would like to support this channel you can do so through the coffee link in the description if you have any questions or comments feel free to leave them in the comments section i'll try my best to answer any and all questions i can if i can answer there's a link to the jr's wiki below as well if you like this video and want to see more content from me well you know what to do until next time i'd like to thank you all for checking this out and i'll see you in the next one

Channel: EB3D Printing

Views: 78,189

Keywords: Creality, CrealityEnder, Creality Ender, CrealityEnder3, Creality Ender 3, CrealityEnder3Pro, Creality Ender 3 Pro, Creality Ender 3 v2, CrealityEnder3v2, Creality v2, 3D, 3dprinting, 3d printing, 3d printer, 3dprinter, 3d prints, Jyers, Marlin, Jyers Marlin, Firmware, Bltouch, Manual Leveling, Ender 3 v2

Id: ZqFIpoekTXY

Length: 37min 4sec (2224 seconds)

Published: Sat May 15 2021