Jessica repairs 400HP AWD Cadillac Escalade!

hey everybody welcome to vice grip garage today i'm going to be your host because derek is out of town for a few days and my going to town rig has a ton of issues that need to be addressed right away so today we're going to be doing a brake job an oil change new battery and also i'm going to be trying to diagnose the check engine light that is preventing me from using my cruise control which is super annoying we got a ton of stuff to do today so let's get started [Music] [Applause] [Music] so i know that this might be boring for some of you guys watching but i also know there's a lot of women that watch and i'm hoping that by you watching me do this today it'll motivate some of you to get out there and do it yourself and just to show you that we can do it too so let's go check this thing out i know you've probably seen this in the background of other videos we've had this for quite a few years now the reason why i wanted this specific vehicle was not only for the interior setup with the third row seating with the kids but i was also looking for this specific color the suv type i've always had yukons tahoes that kind of vehicle so this was a very specific thing that i wanted derek actually found this on ebay and won the bid so he flew to new york picked it up and drove it home for me we've only ever had to put in a water pump and replace the hub so it makes sense that we have to do some basic maintenance on it we bought this used with about 60 000 miles on it and it's getting close to about 130 000 so it's definitely time to get these things done so when i came outside to pull this into the shop this morning the battery was actually dead so we are going to see if it's the battery or the altenew that needs replaced so i actually remember a couple years ago replacing this battery in the winter when it was having kind of the same issues with starting i'm going to fire this up i'm going to put the volt meter on the battery to see if the alternator is still charging if it isn't charging we're going to call o'reilly and get a new one ordered up if it is charging we're just going to swap out the battery really quick so i'm just looking for anything over 13 volts some vehicles depending on make and model you have to rev the engine this one is showing just over 14 so we know it's charging so my vehicle here has these two support bars and i'm just gonna remove those to make it easier to get this battery out of here because that thing is way too heavy for me i threw this up here so i don't scratch up my fender here because i have a feeling i'm going to kind of struggle getting this out of here [Music] not quite as bad as i thought [Music] first thing i need to do is write the date on this battery now i'm just going to put all the braces back in and we're good to go [Music] we got the battery all buttoned up while i'm right here i'm going to go ahead and pop this cover off the air filter and check to see if it needs to be cleaned or replaced at all this actually looks really clean really good i don't even know if i could get this any cleaner to be honest it looks like it has a date of 6 21 so that really wasn't that long ago put this back in and we're just going to leave it alone so for those of you interested this is the 6.2 liter and it is rated at about 403 horsepower but to be completely honest with you with it being all-wheel drive it gets terrible terrible gas mileage we've got a lot of brake work to do to this thing so let's get it up in the air and let's get started these wheels were already on the truck when we got it which i love them but to be honest i don't really know anything about them i thought it was just this one bolt here in the center cap but it turns out we have to take out every single one of these on the outside of the wheel so i just rigged up this little guy here to help me get them off so something kind of interesting that i just figured out is it looks like we can run these wheels like this like we've been running them with the chrome or we can pop these off the center cap and just run them to be black what do you guys think we should do keep them chrome run it black comment down below and let us know what you think [Music] [Applause] [Music] geez these are way bigger than i thought [Music] this part's pretty easy we just have to back these two pins out slide the caliper off and then the pads should fall off [Music] [Music] you can see there's almost nothing left of the pads and you can see where the wear indicator was rubbing on the rotor so i'm going to take these rotors off and take them into town to have them turned and what that will do is it will actually make a nice smooth surface which will extend the life of our new brake pads i'm going to take the caliper bracket off first and then the whole rotor will just slide right off so you can buy new rotors if you want but we like to try to save as much money as possible wherever we can so we can have these turn for about 15 bucks [Music] the e-brake shoes look really really great on both sides so i don't even think we're going to mess with those all right so we're going to run these rotors down to o'reilly's really quick and have them turned and while we're there we're probably going to grab some oil some new brake pads or whatever else we need [Music] okay so we're back with the rotor and i know you can see it's really shiny here i know you can't feel it but it's really really smooth and again that's just going to help the brake pad last a lot longer because it's not trying to conform to all the grooves that were in there before dang it that's kind of heavy so we are going to put the caliper brackets back on but first we are going to put some red loctite on these caliper bracket bolts that's to hold it in place so it doesn't shake at all and i can see that there was some on here previously so that tells me it's actually probably pretty important [Music] we're gonna pop off these old bracket things whatever they are replace them with the new ones that came in the kit if you don't replace them the brake pad can get hung up or get a little bit too loose i'm gonna put some brake caliper grease right here where the brake pads sit and what that's going to do is it's going to keep keep it nice and quiet and keep everything moving around nice and freely i get embarrassed really easily most of you might know by now so going through town with really loud breaks is not something i like to do so derek would probably never do this because obviously one he never has brakes anyway but he just does not care what people think pads are in i went ahead and got the ceramic ones which are a little bit more expensive but since derrick is out of town i don't know how to get the cheapest of everything and to be completely honest this is not something i want to do anytime soon so this will help them last a little bit longer too this is probably going to be the most difficult part is putting the tire on only because it's like literally half the size of me tallness wise if that's a word but um i also just noticed i have a screw in my tire so that's gonna be next thing so some of you might be curious these tires are 285 45 22's they are up there a little bit i wonder what derek would think if i put spinners on this just kidding all right so we're just going to torque these wheels quick pop the plastic back on then we're going to head to the front brakes i'm not going to bore you guys the front brakes the same exact process as the rear brakes plus i can already see by looking at this rotor that it is not in near as bad as shape as the other one so we're not even going to take them in and get them turned so i'm just going to knock this out really quick and we'll be right back with you so i know i said i wasn't going to show you guys this but this is really crazy so the pin that goes on the inside here it was frozen in there essentially so i had used some heat to break it loose if you see this one down here see how this one moves freely this one obviously was not doing that and what was happening is it was causing the inside pad to squeeze really hard and not do anything for the with the outside one so you can see this outside one is essentially brand new whereas this one that was on the inside it's just down to virtually nothing you can see it was metal on metal which i had heard that for a while i just didn't realize it was quite that bad so if you look here you can see all these rust spots that's actually metal from the brake pad that got caught up in the wheel and rusted so here's where we're at obviously i had to get this right rotor turn because the pad was metal on metal got the brakes all done thought we were good to go and unfortunately i found a leak so let's get this thing back down and see what we can find so when i was under the truck i noticed brake fluid leaking i thought it was a line close to the caliper but it was not i followed the leak and i followed the fluid all the way up here all the way up to the back of the master cylinder so basically this master cylinder is leaking out of the rear and we're going to have to replace it now if you have the ability you can rebuild these but i've never done that before and so we're just going to swap that out so you guys know when you put in new brake pads you compress the caliper which drives the fluid backwards and i think what happened is it found the weakest link which happens to be the old brake master cylinder so this is a very universal part to replace typically you have one or two lines to replace and a couple of bolts holding it to the booster so i'm going to get this off of here so not a big deal on newer vehicles like this but derrick taught me on older vehicles typically you would want to use a plier to hold the brake line otherwise when you're twisting the fitting off you could snap the brake line luckily on this one both these fittings came loose pretty easily [Music] so normally derek and i would bleed these in the vehicle because it's way easier way less messy but since it's just me i went ahead and bench put this got it put back in here and i think we're going to be good to go [Music] oh i finished up here now the fun part got to get this truck back up and start bleeding the brakes okay i'm going to start bleeding the brakes closest to the master cylinder and just work my way around i'm going to be using this fluid extractor thing of derrick i think i figured out how to use it we'll see so i think i have a fully functioning brake system now of course you guys know if it's not working properly all i really have to do is bat my eyes at derrick a little bit and somehow it'll just magically be working right again well we can finally move on and try to figure out what this check engine light is as i mentioned before it keeps me from using my cruise control and that can get so annoying when i'm having to make these long trips into town so let's try to figure this out we have a few of these scanners laying around because obviously derrick works on a lot of junk so we need them a lot if you don't have your own you can always go down to your local o'reilly or any part store that you choose and they'll usually scan it for free and they'll even tell you you know what's wrong with your vehicle i actually think derek got this one at o'reilly's and it was not expensive at all so i just scanned this and the only code that it's showing me is a po449 code which says it's an evaporative emission vent solenoid valve control circuit i have no idea what that is i know nothing about it so give me a few minutes i'm going to google it i'm going to see if i can figure it out on my own i have no idea what mechanics did before internet was a thing i just googled the code and literally hundreds of different things popped up different forums pictures diagrams everything so honestly i might be able to do this on my own it looks like it might be something really as simple as just popping one out and putting another one back in i've already called o'reilly's they have one in stock i'm going to run down and grab it and i'll be right back so apparently this is what i need to replace it kind of reminds me of like an air mattress pump from what i've seen online the pictures i've been looking at it looks like it goes above the spare tire so i need to get this thing back up again drop the tire and try to get this figured out well this took way longer than i care to admit apparently my tools for this are missing so i had to go get the tools out of derrick's truck thankfully he had them and they were the right ones just going to crank this this should bring it down and we're just going to let it hang for now good thing i figured out these tools are missing i can order a new set on ebay or something that way i have a set for in here in case i need them again no no no no no something i want to address really quick is you can see this condensation leaking out of here profusely and starting to rot it really bad so i think i know a way we can fix this so what i'm going to do is i'm going to drill a hole in this muffler here i know that sounds a little bit counterproductive but what that's going to do is it's going to allow that moisture to run freely out of here without rotting it there that is exactly what i was going for so this is the guy we're after right here this was connected right underneath here had this electrical connection has this which is connected to the fuel fill there was another hose that was connected right up here the new one as you saw i had all the stuff already connected to it so i think we should be able to just kind of pop it all right back in so i grabbed the new part here it looks to me like this is where the vapors get go through to the solenoid right here and that is the part that i'm fighting right now right here it feels or seems like there might be like a whole bunch of zip ties holding it in there or something it's just it's taking me a while to get it out so i'm gonna have to get up in here and see what the problem is and why it's not coming out so it's just going to take me a little while to get it i think i finally got it it seemed like there was a couple of zip ties up there that i couldn't see but i think i finally got it here so we got the new one here i think it's just gonna be like a reverse process we're gonna just put this one back in the way we took this one back out and hope that the wiring from the old one is still good solo i did come with a new wiring harness so i'm just going to go ahead and use this one as well well that's it it was actually a lot easier than i thought it was going to be i think the hardest part honestly was trying to get this tire down i know i said i was going to let it just kind of hang while i did this but it seemed to be in the way and could not get around it so that was honestly the most difficult part so we're going to get this back on here and try to button her all up okay well i got this up in the air i'm going to go ahead and drain the oil change out the filter really quick normally we'd always use a wicks but they were out so i grabbed a k n don't forget also whenever you're doing this to make sure you write the date on your oil filter oh this is a really messy part i also could write the miles on it [Music] there we go the oil filter is out taking the oil pan drain plug out and do my best to catch it [Music] we use shell or pennzoil in every single vehicle that we have uh fun fact if you did not already know this pennzoil and shell is actually owned by the same exact company today i'm going to use the 530 high mileage oil just because of the fact that it's a pretty high mileage vehicle anyway so that just makes sense we're going to fill the oil filter first derrick actually taught me a trick if you hold the oil this way it flows out so much better than holding it the other direction that's almost full already another thing that some of you might not know is these are actually magnetic so the one thing you want to do when you're doing this is check to see if there's any metal flakes at all and there is actually none at all which is a really good sign on here i wonder what derek's doing today what's he even doing when he's not here okay i got the code pulled up here again i'm gonna go ahead and erase this so the race was successful so right now it's showing that the engine light is off i'm gonna let this run for a couple of minutes because sometimes it takes a little while for the coats to come back on i've had this running for about 15 minutes now and so far all the lights have stayed off so i've accomplished everything i wanted to do today so i think i'm going to take this into town as a test drive return the brake master cylinder core even though it takes about 17 dollars in fuel to get there derrick will still say yeah but it's a 22 core so thanks guys for watching appreciate you all and we'll see you next time [Music] you

Channel: Vice Grip Garage

Views: 623,206

Keywords: motortrend, roadkill, vice grip garage, vise grip garage, vgg, cadillac, escalade, ext, 6.2, brake repair, how to fix brakes, evap

Id: 1CAyPxIhBos

Length: 19min 18sec (1158 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 25 2022

Reddit Comments

[u/Omgninjas]

Jessica's little digs at Derek were hilarious! Especially loved the brakes comment. She also got more done in one video than a fellar could have. So proud of her!

[u/wombat801]

If she did that all on her own..amazing job! Even if Derek was in the corner of the shop giving her the assist she still did a great job on the script, showing how things are done, and overall made a great solo video! I'd watch more on the channel! Her digs on Derek and the VGGisms were spot on and hilarious.

[u/gogozrx]

I got the ceramic pads... Derek's not here, so I didn't have to get the cheapest ones.

🙂