Hi. I'm Rick Steves, back
with more of the best of Europe. This time, we're in Italy
for the wildest horse race in the world,
and we're not alone. It's Siena, the Palio,
and a whole lot more. Thanks for joining us. ♪♪ Tuscany seems to be every Italy
connoisseur's favorite region, and for good reason. Here in the heart of Italy, the rustic soul
and historic charm collaborate, seducing travelers into
tossing their itineraries and settling in. We'll enjoy an "aperitivo"
on a great square, marvel at exquisite art, eat cheese
in an Etruscan cellar, settle into a farmhouse B&B, learn to make "pici" pasta, taste one of
the world's finest wines, prepare for a festival, and go to the races. Italy packs
55 million people into an area about the
size of Arizona. Between Florence
and Rome is the region of
Tuscany. We start in Siena, explore the
Chianti region, and then visit
wineries near Montepulciano
and Montalcino. Back in the 1300s, Siena was a major banking,
trading, and military power. It was in a league with
Venice, Florence, and Genoa. It had a population
of about 50,000 people -- that was one of
the biggest cities in Europe -- about as big as Paris. But after being weakened
by a devastating plague and conquered by
its bitter rival, Florence, it's been a backwater
ever since. Siena's loss became
our sightseeing gain, as its political
and economic stagnation preserved
its purely Gothic identity. Its population
hasn't changed for centuries. It's still around 50,000. Siena's great central piazza
is Il Campo. Like a people-friendly
stage set, it's the heart of Siena, both geographically
and metaphorically. The historic junction of
Siena's various neighborhoods, or "contrade," it fans out from City Hall as if to create an amphitheater. The square and its buildings are
the color of the soil here -- a color known to artists and
Crayola users as "burnt Sienna." Sprawling before
the City Hall backdrop, the gently tilted piazza offers the perfect invitation
to loiter. This is a major university town, and a mix of students, locals,
and tourists lounge comfortably, as if it's
their community living room. The great sights of Siena date from long before
the country of Italy existed. And these sights
have a consistent theme -- The Republic of Siena
is independent and perfectly capable
of ruling itself. The Mangia Tower,
built nearly 700 years ago, remains one of Italy's
tallest secular towers. Medieval Siena
was a self-assured republic, and this tower stands like
an exclamation point -- an architectural
declaration of independence from both the pope
and the emperor. 300 winding steps
take you high above the town. Your reward -- a bird's-eye view down at
the uniquely shaped square and a commanding view
of the Tuscan countryside. Beneath the tower, the City Hall
is open to visitors. Its historic rooms were, for centuries,
the home of Siena's government. In the "room of peace" the republic's council met under instructive
14th-century propaganda showing the effects of
good and bad government, with a message that seems
remarkably applicable today. Bad government -- a dictatorship counseled
by greed and tyranny -- results in a place
you wouldn't want to call home, with run-down buildings
and violence in the streets. But good government -- with
wise and virtuous leadership -- results in a utopian republic where the shopping's brisk, construction's booming, students are attentive, and women dance freely
in the streets. The message: A community
ruled by a just government enjoys peace, prosperity, and is a great place
to raise your kids. For a portrayal of that
"good government" in action, drop by the historic hospital
of Santa Maria Della Scala. A series of idealized frescoes shows medieval Siena's
innovative health care and progressive
social welfare system at work. The city, rather than
the Church, ran this hospital, illustrating how far secular
society had come in Siena by the 1400s. It took in and raised orphans -- from wet nurse
through schooling -- to a civil wedding. And this wedding
is not arranged; it's based on love. Sienese society
cared for its poor. Bread was given to the needy. Note the loaves are cleverly
stamped -- to prevent resale. The hospital was run by
secular doctors and nurses. In a slap to Church authorities, this well-fed monk looks bored as he seems to ignore
a dying patient's confession. Siena is a stony wonderland where people, rather than cars,
fill the streets. It's that time
in the early evening when friends gather and stroll. Like in any Italian city, the people of Siena are out
and making the scene. This ritual is called
the "passeggiata." It's like cruising without cars. In fact, throughout
the Mediterranean region, early evening is the time
to be out and about. The "passeggiata" is ideal for
getting together with friends, and I'm joined by my friend
and fellow tour guide, Roberto Bechi. With Roberto, my "passeggiata"
includes a little history. Rick: I just feel there's
so much history all around. Roberto: Yes, especially
on this road here. Rick: What happened
on this road? Roberto: This road, in the
Middle Ages, was called "Via Francigena." Rick: "The way of the French."
Roberto: Yes. It's where all the pilgrims
who were passing through, from France to Rome. Rick: This is the
pilgrims' route! Roberto: Yes.
Rick: For centuries! Rick: And people are walking,
to this very day. Roberto: Yeah, but they do
"passeggiata." Rick: "Passeggiata" today. Roberto: Oh, I love
the "passeggiata." All the Italians
love the "passeggiata." Rick: Everybody's out.
Every generation. Roberto: Every generation going
up and down on the main road, shopping, looking at
the last fashion... Rick: What are the fashions,
who's got a new baby... Roberto: Absolutely.
[ Both laugh ] Italy is a
culture of piazzas. Ever since Roman times, the piazza has been
the heartbeat of the community. And in Siena, Il Campo is
perfect for a nice "aperitivo." We've grabbed a front-row table
to enjoy a "spritz." That's a favorite drink: mixing Aperol, white wine,
and fizzy water. Rick: I love the "aperitivo." "Aperitivo" is Italian
for "happy hour," basically. Get a cocktail -- and, you know,
it's not a cheap cocktail -- but it comes with
lots of nice munchies and the best view in town. Roberto: Yes, in the main square
of Siena. Rick: I love it. Siena's 13th-century
Gothic cathedral, with its striped tower, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary
and covered with art. The richly ornamented facade
bristles with ornamentation: Its striking mosaics framed
by patriarchs and prophets, saints, and gargoyles. Grand as Siena's cathedral is, it's actually the unfinished
rump of a failed vision. After nearby Florence began
building its huge cathedral, proud Siena,
not to be outdone by its rival, planned to build
an even bigger church... in fact the biggest church
in all of Christendom. But Siena was so hilly
there wasn't enough flat ground to support
such an enormous church. What to do? Build the oversized church
anyway, and prop up the overhanging edge by building the Baptistery
underneath. The cathedral we see today was intended only to be
a transept, or wing, off the envisioned nave,
or main part of the church. These towering marble arches hint at the immensity
of the vision. But the arches were
as far as Siena got before construction problems and a devastating plague
scuttled the project. I'm standing atop what would have been
the front of that church. Had it been completed, this square would have been
not a parking lot, but the nave itself. It's fun to imagine that if Siena's grandiose plans
had succeeded, I'd be looking
straight down the nave of that massive church
toward the altar. The resulting church
is still impressive. It's richly decorated
from top to bottom. Peering down from above
are 172 heads. They represent
the popes who reigned from the time of St. Peter
to the 12th century. The exquisite marble floor
is paved with Bible scenes, intricate patterns,
and allegories. This one represents Siena as a she-wolf at the center
of the Italian universe, orbited by such lesser lights as Rome, Florence, and Pisa. The greatest artists of the day helped decorate
Siena's cathedral. In this side chapel,
St. John the Baptist, carved by Donatello,
wears his iconic rags. And high above, playful cherubs
dangle their feet. This memorial to
the Sienese pope Pius II features a statue of St. Paul
carved by Michelangelo himself. And in another chapel, you'll see why Lorenzo Bernini is considered the greatest
Baroque sculptor. His St. Catherine
is in spiritual ecstasy. And St. Jerome
caresses the crucifix like a violinist
lost in heavenly music. A highlight is the church's
Piccolomini Library. Brilliantly frescoed, it captures the exuberance and optimistic spirit
of the 1400s, an age of humanism
when the Renaissance was born. The frescoes look
nearly as vivid now as the day they were finished,
over 500 years ago. They celebrate the life of
one of Siena's hometown boys -- who became Pope Pius II. Each of the scenes
is framed with an arch, as if opening a window
into the real world. ♪♪ The back streets of Siena
have changed little since the days
of the Renaissance. Make a point to
get away from the crowds and enjoy a quiet moment with
the timeless magic of Siena. All over town, shops tempt you with edible
Sienese specialties -- gourmet pasta, vintage Chianti, wild boar prosciutto. Rick: Looks very good!
"Tutti Toscana?" Butcher: "Qui prodotti
di Siena." Rick: Siena?! ...and a delicious
Sienese salami. Rick: This is salami? Butcher: "Assaggio Della casa.
Si chiamo finocchiona, un salami
fatto..." Rick: Mmm! "Complimenti." Siena's claim to caloric fame
is "panforte," a chewy local delicacy that
tempts even fruitcake haters. Siena offers a delicious
range of opportunities to enjoy the hearty
Tuscan cuisine. Characteristic "tavernas"
serve local dishes in a grotto-chic atmosphere -- this one under a fine old
medieval vault. I love bruschetta, and my favorite is
without toppings, just the olive oil and garlic. Rick: I like it as simple,
because you can taste the oil. Roberto: The olive oil.
You can use your hands here. Rick: You can use your hands?
Roberto: Absolutely. Rick: That's nice.
Roberto: Like this. I've ordered
my pasta "bis." That gives me half portions
of two different pastas for the cost of one,
doubling my taste treat. Rick: Mmm. That's light and nice
with the truffle. I like that. Roberto: Yes, absolutely.
It's a good match. Rick: Wow. Tell me the story. And we cap our meal
by descending into their ancient Etruscan
wine cellar. Dating from 300 B.C.
and roughly hewn by hand, this former tomb now houses the
taverna's fine wine and cheese. Year 'round, it's the perfect
temperature for wine and the perfect humidity
for cheese. And, as a travel writer, I feel it's my solemn duty
to confirm this. Rick: It's nice.
Matteo: It's perfect. Rick: I bet the
Etruscans liked this. Matteo: Definitely!
[ Laughter ] Across Europe, festival
traditions go back centuries, and are filled with time-honored
pageantry and ritual. Entire communities
hurl themselves with abandon into the craziness. There's no better example
than here in Italy: Siena's Palio. Twice a year,
that spirit shows itself in a five-century-old
city-wide competition that culminates in
a crazy horse race. Siena is divided into 17
neighborhoods, or "contrade." With their mascots and flags, these have long been competitive
and filled with rivalry. [ Crowd singing in Italian ] Each July and each August, the entire city readies itself
for the big race. Its centerpiece, Il Campo, is transformed into
a medieval racetrack as tons of clay
are packed atop the cobbles, and bleachers are set up. Before the race, competing neighborhoods gather
for communal dinners that last well into the night. There are rousing choruses with everybody cheering
their "contrada." [ Crowd singing in Italian ] For days, processions break out
across the city. With waving flags
and pounding drums, it all harkens back
to the Middle Ages, when these rituals
boosted morale before battle. [ Applause ] A highlight of the parade is the
actual banner, or "palio." This "palio," featuring
the Virgin Mary, (to whom the race is dedicated), will be awarded to
the victorious "contrada." Finally, with what seems like the entire city
packed into Il Campo, it's race time. Bleachers and balcony seats
are expensive, but it's free to join the masses
in the middle. The snorting horses and
their nervous riders line up, jockeying for the best spot. Silence takes over. Once the rope drops,
there's one basic rule: There are no rules. [ Indistinct cheering ] They race bareback like crazy
while spectators go wild. Life stops for these
frantic three laps... just 90 seconds. [ Cheering continues ] When the winner
crosses the line, the winning "contrada"
goes berserk. Tears of joy flow,
people embrace. The winners
thunder through the streets and eventually
into the cathedral, filled with jubilation. Then the winners raise
their coveted "palio" high: Champions...until the next race. ♪♪ While the Palio takes Siena
by storm just two days a year, the charms of
the Tuscan countryside can be enjoyed all year long. The fortified farmhouses and
castles of the Chianti region are reminiscent
of medieval days, when this was part of
the battlefield where Florence and Siena fought. Today the stony walls
are peaceful, growing ever more graceful
with age. Chianti, with its rugged hills
and farmland, charms visitors with a slower,
more rustic lifestyle. This farmer
prunes his olive trees, employing a lifetime
of experience to maximize the fall harvest. In his vineyard,
as they do each spring, tender shoots are bursting out
of their gnarly vines filled with promise. South of Chianti is
a region called the Crete, where the hills are more gentle. This quintessential Tuscan
landscape features clay hills -- the topsoil washed away
by ages of rain and wind -- and iconic lanes of
cypress trees, planted to slow that erosion. The dramatic beauty
of the countryside changes with the season,
and with the time of day. In the springtime the rolling fields are
splashed with colorful flowers. The Tuscan terrain is dotted
by rustic yet noble farmhouses. All over Europe, farms are
renting rooms to travelers -- now harvesting their rural charm
as well as their produce to help make ends meet. Here in Italy, farmhouse B&Bs
are called "agriturismos.: Our "agriturismo," perched on a bluff
overlooking pristine farmland, is perfect for those
who want to settle in and fully experience Tuscany. After enjoying a great day out, the guests gather for
a convivial happy hour. Under the oak tree... enjoying the view... sharing today's experiences,
and dreaming about tomorrow's -- the relaxing vibe is
a vacation dream come true. It's a family business as Isabella keeps
the hospitality flowing, while husband Carlo
mans the barbecue. As evening falls, we gather
for a cultural experience. Tonight, we're learning to make
the local favorite -- a pasta called "pici." Isabella is a patient
and engaging teacher. It's a hands-on experience, and it's great to have a coach. Isabella: We'll recognize that.
[ Laughter ] Rick: The kids
take part as well, as everybody's learning
and having fun. Then, as if a reward for
all the kneading and rolling, we sit down together and enjoy
the fruits of our labor. This is good travel -- a crossroads of American
and Italian cultures, eating and drinking together, while creating memories
of a lifetime. With our Tuscan farmhouse
as a base, there are plenty of things
to experience within a short and scenic drive. This is wine country, home of the famous
and much-loved Brunello Di Montalcino. And vineyards welcome guests
who call ahead. We've got appointments
with two wineries, a large corporate winery first, and then a smaller
family-run farm. The Altesino winery
is elegant and stately. It looks out over
an expanse of vineyards with the hill town of Montalcino
on the horizon. Guides take visitors
on an informative stroll through the entire
wine-making process. Rick: So, how old
do the vines get? Guide: A Sangiovese vine
naturally arrives at 50, 60 years old, but there are wineries
that still have the vine from a century ago. Here, it's clear modern
technology complements tradition, and after centuries
of trial and error, wines are better today
than ever before. Each year, 70,000 bottles of this producer's
prized Brunello work their way through
this exacting process. It's a labor-intensive industry, but right now, the grapes
are doing all the work as they age in their oak casks. And each tour ends up
in the tasting room, to help visitors appreciate why
Brunello is so highly regarded. Nearby, the much smaller winery
of Santa Giulia offers a more intimate visit. Taking visitors
into his vineyard, Gianluca enjoys sharing
the fine points of producing his Brunello wine. Gianluca: The grapes that we use
for Brunello is called Sangiovese.
Sangiovese "grosso." By law, by the DOCG, Brunello Di Montalcino
must be 100% Sangiovese. This is the most important
difference between Brunello and other imported red wine
from Tuscany. This soil is a mix
of clay and sand. The characteristic of the clay
is that it keeps the water, the humidity, underground. If you give water, you stimulate the root to go up
to find the water. If you don't give water, you
stimulate the root to go down, to go deep, to find the water. And they find minerals, too,
underground. So the taste of the grapes and the taste of the wine
then is different. Producing such a fine wine requires a huge investment
and lots of expertise. Surrounded by
stainless-steel vats that produce
10,000 bottles a year, father and son
monitor the process, carefully tasting and discussing the potential
of this year's vintage. [ Conversing in Italian ] The aging process carries on
in oak barrels. There's more tasting as the wine continues
its long journey to the bottle. Seeing father, son, and grandson together amid
these towering casks is a reminder that
this is a rural art form passed from generation
to generation. To cap our visit, Gianluca's mother is
orchestrating the final touches of a delightful lunch, which of course includes
homemade pasta. It's a local feast with everything farm-made
here in Tuscany. The enticing array
of Pecorino cheeses, prosciutto, and salami are all an ideal complement to what this family believes
is the best wine in Italy. As they share their Brunello, it's clear the family
appreciates the happiness their work brings to wine lovers not only here
but all over the world. If anything characterizes
the Tuscan lifestyle, it's a knack for taking time
to savor simple quality... Rick: Here's to good wine
and good family. ...whether it's wine, food,
art, or friendships. I hope you've enjoyed
our taste of Tuscany, from rich and exuberant Siena to the rustic
and equally rich countryside. I'm Rick Steves. Until
next time, "la vita è bella" --
that's "life is beautiful." And keep on travelin'! "Ciao." Oh, baby.
[ Laughs ] It's a great way
to decompress after a busy day of
sightseeing. [ Laughs ] No, okay, I'll do
it, okay. In fact, the biggest
in Christendom. All Christendom. -When I die,
lay me in Tuscany. -With a glass of
Brunello Di Montalcino. [ Laughs ] ♪♪
