STEVES: Hi. I'm Rick Steves, celebrating Easter
all across Europe. Easter is the most thoughtful
and sacred of Christian holidays. It's a time of quiet reflection
and passionate ritual, swinging from great sorrow
to great joy. Across generations,
and across cultures, Easter celebrates
both resurrection and the promise of new life. ♪♪ Across Europe, Easter is steeped
in history and tradition, and it also marks
the end of winter and the start of spring. Tracing the entire
two-month long celebration, we'll start with the craziness
of Carnival -- in Venice with masked balls, Slovenia with monsters
on the rampage, and in Switzerland, we'll see the finale
of Carnival, what we call "Mardi Gras." This is followed by sobriety 40 days of Lent. Then, from Palm Sunday with rituals ranging
from Spain to Slovenia, to Italy and the Vatican
to Greece we'll trace the day-by-day story
of Holy Week, when Jesus was arrested, tried,
and executed. We'll see the secular traditions
that accompany Easter that world of kids,
chocolate eggs, and local delicacies lots of wonderful
holiday treats, home cooking,
and traditional dishes. Finally, we'll experience
the joy of Easter Sunday as various cultures
across Europe celebrate
the resurrection of Jesus, along with the return of spring,
each in their own way. While Christmas celebrates
the birth of Jesus, Easter remembers
the central Christian event his suffering, crucifixion,
and resurrection. For Christians, it's the story of how Christ died
to save humankind from sin, and bring the gift of salvation. For nearly 2,000 years, those events described
in the Bible have been expressed
through great European art. The story, called the "Passion," begins a week
before Easter Sunday, as Jesus and His followers make a triumphal entry
into Jerusalem. It's called "Palm Sunday," because as he approached
the city, a huge crowd welcomed him
by waving palm fronds and shouting joyfully, "Hosanna!
Hosanna in the highest." But the chief priests
and Jewish elders felt threatened by Jesus, so they plotted to arrest Him. For 30 pieces of silver, one of Jesus' 12 apostles,
Judas, agreed to betray him. Eating his last supper
with his disciples, Jesus said, "One of you
will betray me." Anxiously, they asked,
"Lord, is it I?" After the meal, Jesus and his disciples went
to the Garden of Gethsemane. He asked his disciples to pray
with him in his time of need, but they fell asleep. A troubled Jesus asked God
if he could escape his fate. He said, "Father,
if you are willing, take this cup from me. Yet not my will,
but yours be done." As Jesus prayed, Judas arrived
with a group of armed men and, as was arranged,
identified Jesus with a kiss. Jesus was arrested, and the apostles,
afraid for their lives, fled. Jesus was bound, handed over to the Roman
governor, Pontius Pilate, and charged with treason. Pilate saw no reason
to convict Jesus. But the crowd shouted,
"Crucify him!" Pilate literally
washed his hands of the problem and turned Jesus over
to the mob. The crowd spit on him
and whipped him. They taunted him, mockingly dressed him
in a royal robe, and crowned him with thorns. Ridiculing him, the people said,
"Hail, King of the Jews." Jesus was then made to carry
his own cross up the hill of Golgotha, the place of execution
in Jerusalem. He was stripped. His hands and feet
were nailed to the cross. The initials above his head
stood for "Jesus of Nazareth,
King of the Jews." Dying and in despair,
Jesus cried out, "My God, my God,
why have you forsaken me?" Then, breathing his last,
he said, "Father, into your hands,
I commit my spirit." As evening approached,
Jesus' grieving friends gently lowered his body
down from the cross. Wrapping him
in a shroud of linen, they placed his body
in a tomb carved out of rock and protected the entrance
with a large stone. On Sunday morning, Mary Magdalene and the women
who came to anoint his body went to the tomb and saw the stone
was rolled away. An angel told them not to worry,
and that Jesus had risen. Bewildered and frightened,
the women fled. Suddenly, Jesus appeared
and said, "Do not be afraid." He instructed them to tell
the apostles that he was alive. When the apostles saw Jesus, they couldn't believe
it was him. To prove it was actually him, He encouraged them
to touch his wounds, and they broke bread together. After 40 days,
Jesus blessed his followers and told them to go out
and preach the gospel, the good news
of his resurrection. Christians believe he then ascended to heaven
before their very eyes. This remarkable story has helped shape Western history
for 2,000 years. While Christians have celebrated
Easter since ancient times, the festival itself actually has
pre-Christian roots, and it's no coincidence that it
happens at the start of spring. Like Christmas replaced
the pagan festival of Saturn in the dead of winter, Easter likely replaced
the celebration of Eostre, a pagan goddess of spring. It was a time of renewal,
birth, and fertility. Imagine the bleakness of winter
in ancient and medieval times the despair, the short days and long nights, barren fields, the hunger, and the cold. Imagine the need for a promise
that summer will return, and the joy when, finally,
the fields spring to life and once again bear fruit. Imagine also the comfort
in knowing that God or the gods had not abandoned you
and your family. Rituals,
whether Christian or pagan, gave people hope, reminding them
that the darkness of winter is always followed
by life-giving spring. The Church wisely adapted
the pagan seasonal calendar to fit the story
it wanted to tell. It rebranded this winter season
of scarcity as a time of purification
for Christians, and called it "Lent." But before
the deprivation of Lent, there was a rowdy festival
period of "anything goes," and this hedonistic fling
is Carnival. Carnival, which culminates
in Mardi Gras, or "Fat Tuesday" in English, has a wild modern
interpretation: big parades
with marching bands... crazy costumes... and overindulgence
of every kind, such as here,
in the Swiss city of Luzern. But these modern traditions actually have pre-Christian,
pagan roots. A memorable way
to experience these traditions is in the countryside
of Slovenia. Whether it's in the mountains
or the valleys, a common theme is a visitation
of masked, hairy creatures. Some are called "Kurents," and others are called, simply,
"the ugly ones." These woolly monsters
parade through villages, making a racket -- rattling and clanging
their bells from door to door, chasing away evil spirits, and trying to frighten off
winter. Homeowners eventually come
to the door and, to quell the clamoring mob, they give the leader
a sausage... ...and a few cups of wine
for the gang. The "ugly ones" swing their hips
wildly with satisfaction. This ritual is a remnant
from the distant past, when families were persuaded
to share food during hard times. Another band of characters
also roves from house to house. A group of ploughmen pull a colorful wagon
decked out in flowers, representing fertility
and the coming of spring. The homeowner
is asked for permission to "plough for the big turnip." The ploughmen then drag
the fanciful plough behind men dressed as horses. This "wakes up the soil" in preparation for a season
of bountiful crops. Cracking whips
announce the procession. [ Whips cracking ] After the symbolic ploughing
and sowing, the homeowner offers
the merry band eggs and sausage, and wishes them good health
and a good harvest. The best-known Carnival
celebration in Europe is in Venice. Each winter,
Carnival casts a spell on Venetians and visitors alike. Following a tradition that
originated in the 13th century, the city slips behind a mask
of anonymity as Venetians promenade, pose, and pretend to be
someone they're not. Authority is challenged.
Rules are broken. The goal: to indulge
in all the pleasures that will be forbidden in Lent. An elegant disguise is both
transformative and liberating, but it's the mask, so symbolic
of this enigmatic city, that functions
as a cloak of invisibility. The pleasurable appeal
of anonymity is as powerful today
as it was in the Middle Ages. As dusk falls, the back streets
come alive with strangers. Now as then, in Venice,
decadence rules the night. In palazzos off the Grand Canal, elaborately staged parties take the aura of mystery
a step further. Behind their masks,
all people from bankers to bakers
are equal. Tonight, no one
knows who is who, and reality seems
a distant dream. And, as it was centuries ago, what happens in Venice
stays in Venice. [ Bells ringing ] Finally, with the arrival
of Ash Wednesday, the party's over. Repentant revelers go to church for a Mass that marks
the beginning of Lent, a 40-day period of fasting
and reflection as Christendom prepares
for Easter. The priest marks each
worshiper's forehead with ash, which symbolizes
purification by fire. The 40 days of Lent represent the time Jesus spent
in the wilderness. He was preparing for the culmination
of his ministry on Earth and being tempted by the Devil. It's a time when Christians
reflect on Christ's suffering and on our own sins. During Lent, people give up
a favorite activity or food. It's a time
to put aside distractions and focus on God's presence
in our lives. Historically, Lent was
the final stretch of winter. The last of the meat
was finished during Carnival. There would be no eggs
until spring. Through centuries when simply
surviving the winter was a challenge, this was a time
that required a strong faith. As the world awakes from winter, the austerity of Lent
gives way to Holy Week. This week, from Palm Sunday
to Easter Sunday, is the most sacred
of the Christian year, and Europeans mark each day
in unique ways. Holy days build emotionally
to the Resurrection. Ranging from Spain to Slovenia
and Italy to Greece, we'll peek in
on each of these days. [ Bells ringing ] Holy Week begins
with Palm Sunday, the day Jesus entered Jerusalem
to a hero's welcome. In Rome,
the Vatican kicks off Holy Week with a beautifully orchestrated
High Church event. The faithful
fill St. Peter's Square, facing the greatest church
in Christendom. Forests of palm fronds are a reminder
of Jesus' triumphant entry. Cardinals and bishops
add to the glory of the day, and the pope arrives with
fanfare to bless the palms. While the pope
gets the TV coverage, Palm Sunday
is celebrated across Europe in churches
both grand and humble. In Tuscan villages, parishioners
have olive branches blessed. Whether palm or olive,
both are evergreen, and both symbolic
of the promise of new life. ♪♪ In Spain, Holy Week
is called "Semana Santa." It's celebrated with unrivaled
pageantry and emotion, most famously in Seville,
(or "Sevilla"). Here, Semana Santa
is an epic event that stirs the soul and
captivates all who participate. On Palm Sunday, families dressed up
for this important day head into their parish church
for Mass. Then, promenading
with palm and olive branches, they make a loop
through the neighborhood, eventually returning
to their home church. Afterwards, they visit other
churches throughout the city, each displaying
elaborate floats. Sevilla has many religious
brotherhoods, or "fraternities," that are entrusted with the care
of venerable floats that carry a statue of Christ
and the Virgin Mary through the streets
during Semana Santa. These floats
have a dual purpose: to teach and to honor. They provide parents with a way
to talk to their children about the last days
of Jesus' life, as well as how to deal with
complex emotions like suffering and grief. Sevillanos hold a special place
in their hearts for Mary. Floats with Mary
evoke great emotions, and remind them
of the grieving mother who has lost her only son. Every neighborhood church
has its own unique Mary. All are the grieving mothers
of the crucified Christ, but each one represents a
different aspect of her sorrow. And there are other floats. This one, nicknamed La Borriquita,
or "The Little Donkey," depicts Jesus' grand entrance
into Jerusalem. ♪♪ La Borriquita leaves its church and begins its procession
through the narrow streets. This marks the official start
of Holy Week. From now on,
every day until Easter Sunday, the city is enlivened
with dozens of such processions. These ritual parades first filled the streets
of Sevilla 400 years ago. They're designed to present
the story of the Passion the death and resurrection
of Jesus in a way the average person
could understand. Today, some 60 fraternities
each make the journey on foot, carrying floats in processions
like these from their parishes to the city's cathedral,
and back. The journey, through miles
of passionate crowds, can take up to 14 hours. Strong men called costaleros
work in shifts. As a team,
they bear two tons of weight on the backs of their necks, an experience they consider
a great honor despite, and indeed because of,
the pain involved. The caped and hooded figures
of devoted penitents surround the floats. These are an icon
of Semana Santa celebrations. Unfortunately,
for most Americans, these masked figures evoke
the Ku Klux Klan. But these outfits pre-date
the racist KKK by centuries. And ironically, the original
purpose of the hoods was to show that everyone
is equal in the eyes of God, and to ensure that sinners
could repent in anonymity. Unaware of the confusion their cones may cause
many visitors on Palm Sunday, the youngest penitents
continue on their way. Some are into it,
and others not so much. But all take their place
in a sacred Easter ritual that's been practiced
for hundreds of years. While Palm Sunday kicks Holy Week off
with grand spectacle, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday
are quieter. According to the Bible, Jesus disappoints those
expecting a conquering hero, and things move step by step
toward his execution. In every culture, communities take these days
to prepare for Easter. While traditions vary, eggs are a recurring theme
at Easter time. In Greece, Orthodox churches display exquisitely painted
ostrich eggs. Symbolic of rebirth
and resurrection, they hang prominently
from ornate chandeliers. WOMAN: [ Speaking Greek ] STEVES: Greece celebrates Easter
with particular gusto. In fact, all of Holy Week
is a school vacation. Children like Evelina drop by their godparents'
for a little quality time, which, today,
includes dyeing eggs. Here in Greece,
the color is always red, to symbolize
the blood of Christ. These will be great to share
when Easter Sunday arrives. [ Conversing in Greek ] Godparents also give
a big chocolate egg and a special candle
to their godchild to hold at the Resurrection
ceremony on Easter Sunday. As spring emerges,
trees blossom, flowers bloom,
and fields green up. We're reminded of
the earth's newborn fertility. It's easy to understand
how eggs, symbolic of new life, have become tied
to the Easter theme of rebirth. In beautiful Slovenia, in the remote region
of Bela Krajina, where many of Slovenia's
folk tales were born, old customs have been kept alive in villages tucked among
the hills and forests. The region's isolation has
preserved these traditions, which, over the centuries, have morphed from those
prescribed by the seasons, to those prescribed
by the Church. In medieval times, to celebrate the arrival of
spring after months of scarcity, decorated eggs
were offered as gifts. Many families
still dye their Easter eggs according to tradition: spring leaves and flowers
from the garden are pressed onto an egg,
wrapped in gauze, and then boiled in onion skins. After the gauze is removed,
the eggs are left to cool, now beautifully decorated
with stamps of springtime. Today, Slovenian decorated eggs
are a revered folk art and prized gifts at Easter. This woman
is using a delicate technique of drawing on the shell with
a tool loaded with hot beeswax. She then dyes the egg
with natural colors. Finally, eggs are rubbed in
pig's fat to lend a nice sheen. While techniques vary, decorated eggs
with designs inspired by nature add heritage and local pride
to Easter celebrations. Slovenes today
value this humble gift just as they did
in medieval times. [ Women singing in Slovenian ] As their grandmothers did, these village women
enjoy working together as they embroider cloths
to cover the Easter baskets that'll hold their eggs and
special foods for a blessing. [ Singing continues ] The giving of eggs
can come with a playful twist. In Italy, chocolate eggs contain
hidden gifts for loved ones. Here, in a backstreet of Rome, a fine chocolate shop embraces
Easter with enthusiasm. And Antonello is on a mission. With some help
from behind the counter, he arranges
to have a necklace planted inside a big chocolate egg. The plan: on Easter Sunday, his sweetheart
will discover the gift as a re-affirmation of his love. [ Conversing in Italian ] Back in Sevilla,
we saw no chocolate Easter eggs. But there are still plenty
of Semana Santa penitents, and the week is in full swing. This shop's been selling
penitent cones for 200 years, and is full of locals
getting a last-minute fitting. Behind the busy shop, a woman stitches the cones
by hand, just as she's done for 40 years. Nearby, another shop makes the
woven belts and necklace cords that penitents wear
over their robes. The shop is so small, the spinning
spills into the street. Bakeries are filled
with holiday treats, like sweet cookies
and spicy pestiños. Hungry patrons at this tapas bar enjoy meatless pre-Easter plates
of salt cod fritters. And the walls
are completely covered with historic photos
of Semana Santa, while a TV set shows coverage
of the float procession rather than football. At home, children get ready
with a dress rehearsal, practicing the big moment when
they get to join a procession. Juan and Irena
patiently review the plan, and dress up as young penitents. As a reward, they help
Mama and Papa make torrijas, another Semana Santa favorite this one made with bread,
honey, and cinnamon. Families wait in long lines
at various churches for a chance to kiss
the foot of Jesus or the hand of Mary. This intimate moment is treasured
by the people of Sevilla. It's only possible after a statue's brought down
from the altar, and before it's hoisted
atop its float. The most revered
of these encounters is with El Gran Poder,
The Great Power. Here, Jesus,
exhausted from his humiliation and beating at the hands
of his captors, prepares to take up the cross, an acknowledgement of
the burdens we all must carry. Rituals like these make Jesus
accessible to Sevillanos, who are visibly moved
by the encounter. All across town, churches are
enlivened with ritual, and various Marys
play a prominent role. This Mary is called "Soledad,"
or "solitude." She traditionally adorns
the last float of Semana Santa, poignantly reminding people
of her great loneliness after the death of her son. The Mary of Solitude is beloved by those who wait for
this once-a-year opportunity, convinced she will empathize
with their needs and hear their prayers. Easter is a time
of family and feasting. In every culture, special foods weave together
religious and folk traditions. It's a time of music,
blessings, and community as Holy Week builds
to Easter Sunday. Deep in Italy's Marche region, the mountains seem to cradle more time-honored
Easter rituals. ♪♪ A folk band of troubadours
goes farm to farm to help bless
the coming harvest. They rouse the family
with their music. [ Conversing in Italian ] And then, as is the tradition, they're invited to enjoy
a rustic meal: farm-made cheese, salami,
and wine. [ Conversing in Italian ] The holiday spirit in Italy can be found in larger cities,
too, like Siena. [ All singing in Italian ] Like anywhere, in Italy, Easter is a time
when generations come together. Preschoolers bring some Easter
joy to this retirement home with skits and songs. The touching scene takes these seniors
back to their distant childhood, and they respond with gifts. Back in the Tuscan countryside, locals bring baskets of eggs
to their tiny church to be blessed by their priest. These will be enjoyed by young
and old alike on Easter Sunday. In Slovenia, Lake Bled is nestled at the foot
of the Julian Alps. This spectacular
and romantic location is famous as a summer resort, although in the springtime
it can be chilly. But the weather
doesn't stop townsfolk from making the short trip
on a pletna boat to the lake's island. Next to the island's church
is a bakery famous for Slovenia's
Easter bread, called potica. This holiday treat,
much loved by Slovenes, represents
Jesus' Crown of Thorns, and is eaten for Easter brunch. Potica is a log of sweet bread filled with a paste
of walnuts and honey, chopped almonds, and fruit. It's placed
in a ceramic Bundt pan, and after baking it's flipped
to reveal the finished potica. This busy baker will make
a couple dozen of these today in anticipation
of the coming feast. Back in Slovenia's Bela Krajina, a self-sufficient old farmer wears the region's
traditional white linen, which he wove himself. He packs up his Easter feast
for a blessing: smoked pork,
representing Christ's body, horseradish root
for the nails on the cross, potica for the Crown of Thorns, and hard-boiled eggs dyed red
for the blood Christ shed. It's all packed into a basket and covered
with the embroidered cloth. For centuries,
it's been a tradition for Slovenes
to gather during Holy Week to have these baskets
of symbolic Easter foods blessed by their priest. Some go by boat
to the island church. Some gather
at humble roadside chapels. And others bring their baskets
to timeless village churches. On Thursday of Holy Week, the events of the Passion
accelerate. Jesus, whose ministry lasted
just three years, knows his destiny:
betrayal, followed by execution. Back in Italy's
remote Marche region, in the stony village
of Cantiano, Jesus' destiny is brought
to life for all to see. In the evening,
the entire town participates in a dramatic re-enactment
of the Easter story, retelling it
as they have for centuries. Townspeople consider it an honor to play a part
in this epic Biblical story. On this night, Jesus gathers his 12 apostles
for their Last Supper. Villagers and visitors alike
are transfixed as he tells his disciples,
"One of you will betray me," and they respond,
"Lord, is it I?" With Good Friday
only hours away, Cantiano's church
is dressed in mourning. Crosses and artwork are covered,
draped in purple, representing the Passion. Holy Thursday is
one of the most sacred Masses in the Catholic calendar, full of ancient ritual
and mysticism. This day is also known
as Maundy Thursday: "Maundy" means "mandate," and refers
to Jesus' new commandment. On this day,
according to the Bible, he told his apostles, "Love one another
as I have loved you." [ Priest speaking Italian ] Jesus demonstrated this
commandment at the last supper, when he washed the feet
of his disciples. When a priest washes the feet
of his parishioners, he's reminding them
of this mandate. Doing this humble job, customarily given
to the lowliest servant, illustrates the depth
of Jesus' love and the love he called others
to show each other. [ Speaking Italian ] STEVES: This gesture
is followed by the Eucharist. Also called Holy Communion, it symbolically re-enacts
that last supper, and is a reminder of the great
sacrifice of the Crucifixion. The bread and the wine
are taken together by Christians to remember
the body and blood Christ gave so they could be forgiven
and saved in the eyes of God. For Christians, this is
the essence of the Easter story. Back in Spain, in Sevilla, various religious fraternities parade on different days
during Holy Week, so preparations continue
all week long. This fraternity is putting
finishing touches on its float before it hits the street. Men, women,
and even young children are all members
of neighborhood fraternities. For centuries, these groups
were mission-based, and today, all are still
involved in social causes, such as helping the poor. Excitement fills the air,
and so does laughter, as flowers are prepped
and arranged... ...candles are set out
for the penitents, and petals are plucked
for showering upon Mary when she takes her turn
parading through the city. This is tender work,
and great care is taken to make sure that the floats
are perfect in every way. Floats with Mary are often the most anticipated
during Semana Santa, as she is beloved
for the suffering she endures and her empathy with the people. This Mary is known
as "Estrella," and inside her namesake star she carries a relic
of the cross. She'll have her moment
later this evening. Out on the crowded streets, floats slowly make their way
to the cathedral. [ Man singing in Spanish ] Centuries of Flamenco singers have serenaded Mary and Jesus
with love songs as they process
through the city. Traditionally spontaneous,
these passionate songs occur when a singer is
so overcome with emotion, he must break into song. [ Singing continues ] [ Applause ] As dusk settles on Sevilla, a long line of silent,
black-clad penitents escort one of the city's
most moving floats toward the cathedral. The float portrays
the dead Jesus, taken down from the cross and mourned by the people
who loved him most. Among the most dramatic
of the week's processions, the float is decorated simply with purple iris
and a single red rose, symbolizing
the blood Jesus shed. As night closes in, penitents' candles sway like
fireflies dancing in the dark. The entire Holy Week in Spain
is a glorious spectacle. After a full day,
it's hard to imagine more, and then the Mary
known as Estrella appears, ethereal and radiant. A shower of petals
rains down upon her as if heaven itself
is thanking her for her immense
and loving sacrifice. ♪♪ On Good Friday,
the day Jesus was crucified, in churches and communities
throughout Europe, the rituals of Easter intensify with more processions, plays,
and Holy Masses. [ Clattering ] Back in Italy, in Cantiano, the pre-dawn streets
stir with groups of young men. Their purpose:
to awaken the town. According to tradition, no church bells ring
on this sad day. That's why
it's these crude noisemakers that announce
the Good Friday message: Jesus is dead, and it's time
to gather at church. In the dark
and gloomy main church, the community many people
just moments out of bed gathers, dressed
for the mountain chill. The mood is somber
as the priest leads prayers. The ritual Procession
of the Seven Churches begins. The priest
leads his congregation to the next church
for more prayers. From there, with the priest continually
praying and reciting psalms, the procession continues. PRIEST: [ Speaking Italian ] STEVES: Eventually, the entire gathering
reaches the cemetery, where hundreds of candles illuminate both graves
and burial niches. The living remember
their departed loved ones in this time
of communal mourning. In many Christian traditions, during Good Friday
the bells are still and the services are stark,
without music. People leave in silence.
It's a time of mourning. [ Monks chanting in Latin ] In monasteries,
like Monte Oliveto Maggiore, monks chant to sanctify the day. The music and rituals
of Good Friday are less joyous as the focus is
on Jesus' suffering and death. [ Chanting continues ] Nearby,
in the hill town of Gubbio, hooded penitents,
like those in Sevilla, take the sadness of the day
into the streets. As they leave the church
and process through town, they sing the Miserere, a lament expressing
the pain of the Crucifixion. The holy statues
are carried high, as if floating
above legions of mourners. Penitents carry plaques showing
icons and tools of the Passion. And common citizens,
both adults and children, are part of the procession showing that this ritual,
centuries old, continues to be passed on
from generation to generation. Processions like these,
with their heartfelt songs, seem to flood every corner
with great emotion. And throughout Europe, Passion Plays
stir the same emotions. In Slovenia,
the medieval town of Skofja Loka is famed for its Easter play. This version was written
by a local monk in 1721, and has been performed
ever since. With a cast of a thousand locals
and 70 horses, the play is staged in various
squares all across the town, with the action coming
from all sides and captivating the audience. It's a departure from the
standard version of the Passion, a morality play that feels
both medieval and modern. One message suggests
that we're all equal, whether king or cobbler. Then, when a tormented soul
is ravaged by devils, we ask ourself, "How will I choose to live
my own life?" MAN: [ Shouting in Slovenian ] STEVES: But the most dramatic
moments come when things return
to the traditional narrative, and all eyes are
on a suffering and dying Jesus. Passion Plays make
the torturing of Jesus visceral. As told so vividly in the Bible, Jesus suffered greatly even before being nailed
to the Cross, stripped, humiliated,
and whipped. Here he hangs bloody
and nearly naked in the bitter cold. Back in Italy,
at Cantiano's Passion Play, the main square becomes a stage. Under a full moon,
in the crisp air, the entire village
packs the square to witness
this timeless re-enactment. Villagers
take their roles seriously and perform the Passion
with passion. For the faithful here,
it's an honor to participate, a sign of devotion and respect. Some of these people play
the same role for decades. The entire town becomes a set as Jesus is led
to his crucifixion. For the finale
of Cantiano's Passion Play, the entire cast trudges
to the top of the hill. With Jesus in the lead,
carrying the cross, it's an unforgettable
and powerful experience. Then, far below, the village gathers
for the dramatic last scene: the resurrection of Christ, represented by a shroud blowing
from a radiant empty cross. In Greece,
in the city of Nafplio, the warmth of spring
is in the air and crowds of people
are out enjoying the weather and preparing
for the big Easter holiday. Here, Easter is celebrated
with a distinct style. For Greek Orthodox Christians, it's the most celebrated holiday
of the year. Because Eastern Orthodox
Christians use a different calendar
than Western Christians, Orthodox Easter usually falls
on a different Sunday. The Greek Orthodox ritual
may feel exotic and mystical to many Western eyes and ears. But the storyline is the same,
with a few mesmerizing twists. While worshipping, Orthodox Christians believe
standing empowers prayers, and incense helps involve
all the senses. The priest typically has
a long beard, a sign of wisdom,
experience, and respect. He periodically retreats behind an icon-covered wall
called an "iconostasis." Then, to involve all gathered, he circulates
among the faithful. [ Man singing in Greek ] In the Greek Orthodox tradition, the events of Good Friday
start the night before. For hours people gather,
eventually packing the church. As candles flicker, all generations
chant and pray together, awaiting each step of
the Easter story as it unfolds. The cantors
blend music and prayer to heighten the atmosphere
of reverence. [ Men singing in Greek ] Eventually, the priest
brings the crucified Christ out from behind the iconostasis. [ Priest singing in Greek ] After being carried
around the church, Jesus is lovingly decked
in flowers. The passionate congregation then crowds around
to kiss the feet of Jesus. The ritual of mourning
continues through the night. Around midnight,
as Good Friday arrives, women decorate
what's called the "epitaph," or symbolic tomb of Jesus,
while the choir chants. Well into the wee hours, it's a family affair
filled with tenderness as flowers create
a fragile and beautiful monument to their loss and love. [ All singing in Greek ] [ Man singing in Greek ] After dawn,
a Good Friday service is held. Christ is removed
from the cross. His body is then carried
behind the iconostasis. Eventually,
the priest re-emerges, carrying a shroud representing
the crucified Christ. He reverently leads it through
the congregation of mourners. Eventually,
the shroud is laid out flat in the ceremonial coffin, and blessed with flower petals. As in any funeral, loved ones
pay their last respects. Here, either with a kiss,
or, if you're small enough, a trip beneath the epitaph. Once again,
the Orthodox mysticism, enhanced by music, incense, and intensely felt prayer,
heightens the emotional impact. [ Bell tolling ] On Good Friday evening,
the funeral procession starts as the epitaph is carried
out of the church. Even as a visitor, I felt
as one with those gathered, sharing a familiar holiday,
but in a new way. Churches
from three neighborhoods all perform the same
ritual funeral procession as they carry their individual
epitaphs through town. The three parades converge
on the main square, and the epitaphs gather
on a stage with the bishop overlooking what seems like the entire
population of Nafplio. The bishop,
flanked by the town's priests, gives an Easter message, reminding his flock
why Jesus died, and why there's reason for hope. [ Bishop speaking Greek ] Holy Saturday is the day
Christ's body lay in the tomb while his followers mourned. In Western Christian traditions, it's a time of thoughtfulness
and waiting, of vigils. But in the Orthodox Christian
world, like here in Greece, Holy Saturday is a celebration of what Jesus' soul accomplished
on that day. On Saturday morning, the Greeks pack
their church yet again to remember how, while his disciples
were mourning on Earth, Jesus descended into Hades, bringing salvation
to the souls of the dead. That's why Greeks call this
Saturday the "First
Resurrection." Worshippers venerate
an icon of Jesus pulling Adam and Eve
out of the fires of hell. This is the pivotal moment when Christ has defeated
the devil and death. The priest has changed out
of his mournful black vestments and into hopeful white ones. Much happier
and more animated now, he tosses dried flower petals representing
the broken chains of hell over all gathered. Late Saturday night, the people spill
from their churches and fill the main square
yet again, this time, with a palpable sense
of expectation. [ Indistinct conversations ] It's almost midnight, and Easter Sunday
is just a couple minutes away. Here in Greece, people can hardly wait
to celebrate the Resurrection. On this day, Christians everywhere fill
the churches and the squares, and they declare with great joy,
"Christ is risen. He is risen indeed." [ Fireworks exploding ] When midnight strikes,
fireworks light up the sky, and finally
Easter Sunday is here. The Holy Flame, which literally travels
from Jerusalem to Athens, and then to towns
throughout Greece, is shared, along with the ritual
Easter "kiss of love." And it's not over yet. Everyone then heads home for
the biggest party of the season. People carry the Easter flame
home as a burning candle. Raising it above their heads, they make a cross
above the doorway, symbolizing that the light
of the Resurrection has blessed their home
for another year. A long table awaits
as the extended family gathers. They have a competition to find out whose Easter egg
will be the strongest. Sighs of disappointment
from losers are mixed with the laughter
of winners, until the proud victor, who'll enjoy a particularly
blessed upcoming year, is declared. Traditional holiday dishes,
like a thick lamb entrail soup, are devoured. It's a joyous family gathering. The feast continues into
the wee hours of Easter Sunday with lots of meat and eggs,
and no shortage of Easter bread. [ Bells tolling ] It's a new day, filled with promise both
spiritually and metaphorically. Flowers trumpet
the full bloom of spring, and the earth reawakens
from its winter slumber. Back in Spain, the sun rises
above a serene Sevilla. It's peaceful
after so many parades and ritual-filled days
of Semana Santa. Now, families simply enjoy
time together. In contrast, back in Italy,
in Florence, the pageantry has yet to peak. Easter Sunday starts
with a grand parade. A lumbering, decorated wagon is dragged
by white oxen through town as it has been
since medieval times. The procession ends
at the steps of the cathedral, where a crowd has gathered,
filled with anticipation. At the end of the Mass, a mechanical dove,
representing the Holy Spirit, rockets from the high altar
directly into the cart, igniting fireworks. It's a spectacular way
to announce the Resurrection. And back at the Vatican, St. Peter's Square
is once again filled as this 2,000-year-old tradition is celebrated
with another huge Mass, bringing together
an international crowd and a global audience. In addition to St. Peter's, worshipers fill venerable
churches throughout Rome, which are busy with
Easter Masses all day long. As is the case
everywhere in Christendom, communities come together with
splendid, yet dignified fanfare, all to celebrate
the Resurrection and the promise of salvation. ♪♪ And then, as if famished by all
the processing and church-going, across the lands families settle down
to ritual feasts. It seems the gift of Easter
and the promise of spring brings out a deep-seated urge to gather loved ones together
and embrace life in its fullest. Throughout Italy,
Easter Sunday is a special time for family and friends
to celebrate the good news. Sacred traditions
rich with symbolism survive most vividly
in tiny villages. Grandmothers make holiday rolls
called ciambelle. With a gentle touch, the dough is kneaded
and then shaped into rings. The ring shape represents
the Crown of Thorns. Meanwhile,
grandfather tends the oven with wood from his olive trees. When the coals are just right, the ciambelle arrive,
as if on cue. And drawing from the practice
of a lifetime of Easters, they're cooked to perfection. In his cellar,
he cuts a cured pork salami, hung there to dry especially
for this Easter breakfast. As all generations gather,
the feast begins. Grandfather slices
his prized salami. He blesses the occasion
with a toast. MAN: [ Speaking Italian ] STEVES: Eggs and a variety
of holiday breads are shared. [ Laughter ] The ciambelle are served with
a small glass of vin santo, again recalling
the body and blood of Jesus. On Easter Sunday, it seems everyone has
a place to be, and I'm fortunate
to join friends in this Tuscan farmhouse. To be so far from my own home
and loved ones yet feel so welcome
with this family is a memory I'll treasure
for the rest of my Easters. And after the meal, the kids,
so obedient at the table, are now free to storm
their chocolate eggs for the gift
traditionally hidden inside. [ Cheering ] Joining the parents
and grandparents looking on, we all recall similar Easter
moments from our childhoods. [ Indistinct conversations ] BOY: Grazie. MAN: Prego. STEVES: And in Rome, older celebrants embrace
the holiday egg theme as well. Enjoying a personal moment as an extravagant
Easter banquet awaits, Antonello gives Manuela
her big chocolate egg. MANUELA: [ Laughs ] STEVES: She discovers her gift, a celebration of their love
and commitment to each other. ANTONELLO: [ Speaking Italian ] STEVES: In Slovenia, family and friends
have also gathered. The Easter table
is laden with food thoroughly blessed
the day before. There's a timeless joy
in this intimate scene, as parents laugh together, children do the serious work
of cracking eggs, and a grandmother cradles
her baby granddaughter trying to make sense
of her first Easter. And after a long winter
and Lent, it seems like there's more
than enough ham and potica to last through spring. Children across cultures,
probably yet to appreciate all this resurrection
and rebirth symbolism, certainly know the excitement
of an Easter egg hunt. Back in Greece, this community has organized one
in the town park. It's a mad scramble to find
as many eggs as possible as quickly as possible. And as is so often the case, the tearful little one
who missed out gets a little extra love. In villages all across Greece, families are grilling lamb, eating, singing, and dancing. ♪♪ It seems there's a spring lamb
on a spit in every backyard. The roast takes hours,
but no one's in a hurry. It's an all-day affair. People move between households, checking on each other's lambs
and socializing. When the spit stops,
the feast begins. Lamb off the bone, lamb off the fingers, beer, wine, music, more food, more fun, more lamb. People party all day long. Eventually, the village
ends up back at the church, dancing and singing. Together, they celebrate as they have every year
for all their lives, celebrating the hope of renewal at yet another joyous
Easter Sunday. I've always enjoyed
how exploring other cultures brings more meaning
to my own cherished traditions. I hope this holiday journey has given new meaning
to your Easter as it has mine. I'm Rick Steves. Thanks for joining us,
and Happy Easter.
