Is the Ender 5 S1 Fast and High Quality?

hello this is Irv Shapiro with make with tech and in front of me here this very impressive set of boxes is an Ender 5 S1 now this is a printer I've been waiting for for a long time the second printer I owned over three years ago was an original Ender five and over the years it was truly one of my favorite 3D printers I like the box design it just seems to make sense to me that it would be more stable and produce higher quality prints at higher speeds and in fact I found the original Ender 5 was maybe 20 or 30 percent maybe even 50 in some circumstances faster than a traditional Ender three because I could crank up the speed and because of the Box rigid box design there'd be less vibration but I wasn't satisfied with my original Ender 5 so I upgraded it I upgraded it a lot by the time I donated it to a local school about six months ago it had a 32-bit control board it had Auto bed leveling it had a new all-metal hot end it had a direct extruder I had reinforced the cantilevered bed just a bit all things I thought would improve the printer well creality has now released a printer that's my Ender 5 with all of the upgrades I envisioned and more specifically this Ender five is claimed to be very fast so folks stay tuned and let's learn something together foreign [Music] Tech is a whole Community it consists of a user form at forum.mequotech.com where thousands of people exchange ideas about making stuff a lot of 3D printing stuff and you can even share photos and files with each other it includes models.makertech.com a unique repository of 3D models where you don't just select a model think of it as the canva of 3D printing if you're familiar of canva the graphical design program you select a template and then you modify it the way you want and then you download your model making it very unique and of course it includes this YouTube channel so if you enjoy what I'm doing if you want to support me in doing more please subscribe to the channel if you like the video click on like but most importantly share this channel with everyone you know now let's look at some of the basic highlights of this Ender 5 S1 so it's 250 by 250 by 280. uh that's a pretty typical print size actually slightly smaller than the Ender 3 S1 the Highlight from creality is it's fast at up to 250 millimeters per second now I've seen those claims from creality in the past they weren't always true about some other printers we'll see if it's true about this one to do it it takes the same Sprite extruder which is a really good extruder that's used in the S1 series on the Ender 3 and it adds a different configuration with a much larger heat Block it's physically larger I'll show you pictures of this and that allows it to heat up the filament more rapidly so can be extruded more rapidly other highlights include Auto bed leveling built in it has the ability to add acrylic panels around the outside to make it an enclosed printer I really like this design I'll talk about that a little more later on it has a of course a 32-bit control board running a variation of marlin to a touch panel with a new configuration of the software that's very very easy to use and it sells at least in January beginning of January 2022 which might be the time of sales but it sells for 5.79 so that's a hundred dollars more than the current selling price on the creality site at 479 for the Ender 3 S1 Pro so is this box frame worth it well it may be if you're looking for a lot of speed because the S1 Pro one of my favorite 3D printers nowadays is not any faster really than the standard Ender 3. now on the other hand it comes with three basically sections of Parts this is not going to be a five minute assembly and so in today's world where a lot of printers consist of bolting on the Gantry onto the base and you're basically done I have some concerns about the difficulty of assembling this now I'm not going to do the assembly on camera because I don't think it's a good use of your time anymore since creality produces just really excellent videos on their site for assembling their printers so I'm going to go off and assemble this printer I'm going to do some initial prints and then I'm going to come back and tell you what I learned now something you need to know is that I did not pay for this Ender 5s1 the folks at peergear a Amazon distributor or distributor of Technology products and 3D printers that I've worked with before provided me this Ender 5 S1 at no cost now in today's world I get two to three requests a week from manufacturers that want to provide me with products for reviews I declined the vast majority of them so there's plenty of product for me to review I can get plenty of product at no cost so there's no incentive for me to necessarily give a good review just because I got the printer for free well it's already been a very long morning so I hope you don't mind if I drink a bit of coffee while we discuss this very interesting printer this morning you see unrelated to 3D printing I was trying to pay a cable television and Internet bill what a frustrating experience I've been in the software industry for over 40 years and this website is unintelligible to me back to the Ender 5 S1 I feel like a bit of a Dr Jekyll and a Mr Hyde on the one hand this may be the very best 3D printer that creality has ever manufactured it is truly a high-end industrial grade machine or at least a prosumer grade machine capable of printing at very high temperatures capable of being enclosed with a hundred dollar enclosure kit from creality and capable of both excellent quality while printing quite fast on the other hand because of engineering requirements as a direct result of the need to or the desire by creality to make a printer of the prince very fast to set up if your slicer is a bit more complicated and you see I'm a Mac User the version of the slicer that came on the SD card is for Windows machine only so I thought I'd just download The Standard Version current version of creality I use it all the time no profile for this so I took a standard Ender 5 profile and I made some modifications and my initial prints were very stringy yet the sample prints off the SD card we'll talk about these in a minute were perfect so it took me a while to get things under control I'll show you exactly what I did towards the end of this video so make sure you watch to see that segment now let's take a step back and talk about assembly the Assembly of this printer is not difficult at all but it's long and the reason is first you take these extrusions you bolt them on the base well the first thing you'll notice is there are no sort of slots for them so you just sort of have to line them up over the screw holes and then the screws go in from underneath so you have to use a trick I've used on a lot of 3D printers pull the printer off the edge of the table so you can get to the screw holes underneath not too bad but don't tighten them all down because you're going to have to put a Gantry on the top and you're going to want these to be able to wiggle around a bit to get the screw holes on the top lined up so get it all assembled with your screws lightly finger tight then go to opposite corners and start tightening things down both on the top and the bottom to get it squared up like I said not difficult but it took a bit of time next you have to assemble the print bed and I'm going to move this slowly because it's attached to a stepper motor and stepper Motors are DC motors so when you apply current to a DC motor it turns when you turn it manually it generates electricity generates current that's going to go into the control board and unless they have diodes on the control board ensuring that current doesn't go back into the control board it could damage it so always move the parts on a 3D printer very slowly if they're attached to stepper Motors well you have to bolt this onto the back Z gantry and it's not hard to do I did it upside down the first time the stepper motor goes on the bottom make sure you put the separate motor on the bottom if you haven't flipped around the other way it's not going to fit so then you have to bolt that in the cable management is next Cable Management on this printer is excellent you can only see part of the printer from this view but there are no cables hanging all over the place but there is one unusual feature you can just see at the top of the screen I'll show you a better photo of this and that is there's something that looks like a Bowden tube in the top this is a direct extruder printer so what is this tube well it's literally just the guide for the filament you can pull it in and out of this end it locks on the other end and you need to pull it out to get the filament in initially potentially when you're loading filament it's also used as part of the cable management system to hold the cable on the top up and away from various parts so follow the instructions from the cable management you want to get all the cables tied down properly they give you some custom clips overall when you're done you have a really robust printer that can print very fast now my only problem was the table was wiggling around so you want to put this printer on a solid table that's not going to wiggle around I have it on this adjustable table that I really like that goes up and down so I can use this as a standing desk or to work on at in a standing position but uh you really want it on a stable base so overall very impressive next let's talk about this hot end and I'll see if I can grab some photos off the creality website to show you some close-ups of this if not I'll take some myself it's an impressive piece of engineering it's basically the Sprite extruder from the Ender S1 series that's a high quality extruder that's capable of pushing a lot of filament and that works very well because it's a direct extruder with both flexible and non-flexible filaments but in the case of the S1 that extruder that pulls the filament through is right on the hot end in this case there's an extra large heat break a set of fins in between the extruder and the hot end why do you need that well this printer can go to 300 degrees Celsius and it can do that at very high speed that means that even more so than the S1 Ender 3 S1 Pro which is also 300 Celsius it needs a larger heating element so the heating element on this printer I don't know if you can see it here maybe you'll see it in some of these close-ups is quite large that also means that you need a slightly different nozzle the nozzles that are used for this have a much larger screw area to get through that high at end so it can butt up to the throat above it so it's quite a different setup in addition on the back here I'll make sure you see a picture of this is a unusually large fan but it's very very quiet and then there's a 3D printed Contraption underneath here that directs the airflow right to below the nozzle where you want to cool it off on the bed now it's interesting because creality never uses 3D printed parts so my guess is they were experimenting with the design of this part till the very last minute maybe in later versions of this printer it will be injected molded but on my print it's a 3D printed part probably in a material that can handle higher temperatures so impressive had it but because of all that heat and the extreme Cooling it's likely you can get more stringing so I found I had to lower the temperature below what they recommended to about 180 degrees Celsius when printing PLA and I had to increase the retraction of a table all this that I'll show you at the end in order to get decent prints now another criticism you'll see on the web about this printer is there are none of those nice knobs that creality puts on a lot of printers now to adjust all the belts and this is the same setup as most quality printers it uses belts and uses little wheels to attach to extrusions now to adjust how the devices the head and everything else run on the extrusions you have eccentric screws that can tighten the wheels or pull them apart you have to make sure you check those on your printer when you first set it up and my belts were a little loose so I need to tighten them but they're no wheels here well it ends up there are screws at the back and there's actually a lock screw that locks it down so everywhere there's a belt there's a way to adjust it it's a more industrial process than just turning a knob but this is a more industrial 3D printer so that didn't bother me at all you'll notice when you're printing with this printer there are very good controls for adjusting parameters while it's printing you'll also notice that when you're in the front menu system there's no save parameters option that must happen automatically now before we look at I'm going to move my coffee cup out of the way so I don't spill it on myself before we look at a bunch of these prints I want to talk about bed leveling because it's a bit unusual so to level the bed you turn on the printer yes it's pretty darn quiet in fact this might be one of the quietest printers uh that I've used now you go to the front panel which is very clear it's a new setup I'll show you some close-ups of this and you go down to settings and then level method there are two level methods one is called aux level and the other is called Auto you want to start an AUX a picture of a house on the screen you want to hit that picture and what that's going to do is run the print bed all the way down to the bottom then measure the distance to the top and run it up to the top now my printer when it came out of the box it ran it up to the top to the home position there are about two millimeters between the nozzle and the bed and I looked at the knobs underneath and they're really nice big knobs on this printer to adjust the bed height there wasn't enough screw distance left so what I realized is that the first step in manually leveling this printer is to adjust your Z offset that's the offset between the bottom of the CR touch that's the auto bed Leveling Sensor on this printer which is basically a rebranded style BL touch and you have to adjust the Z offset so that the bed moves up so just below the nozzle and you do that with a piece of paper in there and you want to be able to hear a gritty noise when you're pulling the paper back and forth so oxbed leveling start by adjusting the Z offset when the home position now I've already done that so it's pretty tight but this is on spring so I can push down on this insert a piece of paper here and listen to the sound hear that sound when I pull through it's not tearing the paper but it's rubbing pretty good that's the sound you want to hear then you can go to all of the individual Corners so I'm going to hit the two button here it's going to take it to this opposite corner and then you can adjust your paper adjust the knobs so in every position you hear that same sound when you're pulling your paper through at that point you have manually leveled the bed so step one hit the home button step two adjust the Z offset so the center position is causing the paper to just catch just be tight then check all your Corners I would go through twice because as you adjust the corners the other side is going to move a little bit next go to auto level hit start you can take the paper out in fact you have to at that point and you can go ahead and level your printer now a good technique would be to bring your bed up to temperature before you do this auto level step so I bring the bed up to about 40 or 50 degrees you don't need to go higher when you're Auto leveling so I'm going to let this go to the top position and let it begin Auto bed leveling so you can see a little bit I'll speed it up a lot and then we'll look at the prints from this printer foreign [Music] okay now let's look at some prints well the first thing I did is I printed the two models that came on the SD card the SD card on this printer is a full size SD card I may have already mentioned that's the same size as the Ender 3s1 Pro not the Ender 3s1 so the pro in this printer may share the same control board I didn't open it up to actually look inside it starts with a rabbit very small print I've noticed the printer manufacturers have small print samples now so they print quickly this the printhead was really moving printing this it was moving quite fast uh this is a beautiful print there's nothing to say bad about it there was almost no stringing at all between the ears where you're likely to see stringing next was a benchy and the Banshee was beautiful um clear um layer lines were not very viewable this is in hatchbox pla a beautiful print then I printed in some creality red pla this beautiful model which is designed for folks like me that need a place to store their glasses it actually goes this way so they don't lose them I love this model comes in male and female versions and uh this is a beautiful print but there was a lot of stringing now the string is very fine stringing but there was a lot of stringing on the other hand the surface is just really really nice uh the numbers on the bottom the label on the bottom is very clear next I decided to print a vase this phase comes from the models that makerotech.com site it's a site I produce that has a variety of model templates set of models of templates you select a template then you can customize it to make things exactly the way you want them how many twists how high how wide how big wonderful wonderful site that I'm very proud of and we're in the process of moving towards release candidate one where we're going to load over 500 templates onto the site that will allow you to configure tens of thousands of models very exciting so aside from that though this started printing very slow then I remembered there's a problem with creality printers quality printers implement the standard Marlin power fail recovery here's how it works every time your printer changes layers it goes to a new layer height it takes and it saves that layer height to the SD card now that's fine when you're printing traditional prints not going to have any impact but the layer height is continuously changing in a vase mode print so the printer is trying to save those overheads to the SD card say writing to an SD card relative to other things is relatively slow so it causes phase mode prints to print very slow and in fact because they're printing so slow you get a bunch of drips and drabs around the printer they they don't look as good as they should look so you have to disable power fail recovery well guess what on this printer once you start a print I couldn't find a way to do it before you start the print but once you start a print in the tune section there's a disable power file recovery option you just click that on alternatively you can do what I did and just turn it off completely and the reason I turn it off completely is it doesn't really work so you're printing a big old layer you save the layer height you start printing a layer you're halfway down a layer that takes five minutes to print and the power goes out when the power comes back on your printer is going to try to start again at that layer that's going to cause a layer shift I've ever seen one so yes your print might complete but it won't really work the better technique is just put a UPS on your 3D printer for 50 to 100 bucks you can get a UPS that'll last a little while if your power is going to be out for a really long time power fills not recovery is probably not going to work anyways because your printer is going to the temperature is going to fall when they bring the nozzle temperature back up it won't stick to the filament that's already there so I think a UPS is a better approach so how do you permanently turn off power fail recovery well in the G-Code start code you add a command the command which you can see here on the screen is m 413s0 so you go into your slicer you go into manage printer you go to the G-Code start code and you add that to the G-Code start code and that's what I did so once that was done this printed quite quickly and it's a beautiful print I like printing vase mode prints that don't have uniform surfaces because the variations in the surfaces make them seem to make them stronger this is just a very nice print next I wanted something really complex I wanted to see if I could do a flexible item with moving Parts but I wanted to see if I could do it really fast so I cranked the slicer profile up to 250 millimeters per second I've been printing at 120 and this dragon which really is quite nice printed in six hours and 54 minutes now I also turned on a Cura feature this feature is also available in prusa called lightning infill where it minimizes the infill that was probably a mistake for this Dragon because you have to put a lot of force on the wings to get them in the base they print separately and the lightning infill was not strong enough for that purpose in addition I pulled a lot of it off there's a really lot of stringing on this model so I wasn't enough stringing that it almost impacted the quality so I thought okay let me slow everything down and see if I can eliminate the stringing so I printed this at 120 millimeters per second I turned off lightning infill it took nine hours to print about a third longer um and it's a much stronger print a better print overall but there was still a lot of stringing and just as there was stringing on this model which you can see here but there was no stringing between the ears of the rabbit or on the benchy so they must have something set differently so I began doing some experimentation and I'll show you the result of that experiment I ended up setting these settings for the highest quality prints 120 millimeters per second I dropped the temperature of my pla print down to 198 I might go one degree lower I set the print bed up to 65 they had it at 50 in the default and the reason is I saw a little tiny bit of warping in some of the samples that I don't have here on the screen that I print so I believe that's because the fans are so good that it might be cool off the print a little too fast and it might warp a little so I made the print bed a little bit warmer I set either cubic or lightning info 15 percent and I actually turned on horizontal hole expansion just a little bit I'll show you why later I might have to adjust that a little more I think on this particular printer I haven't measured it precisely yet it's all over extruding just a little bit now when I did that I then printed a calibration cap and this calibration kit came out pretty good I have a caliper here let's take and oops let's zero it out and let's put this in let's see if I can direct this so you can see it so let's get it in the right spot here and it's supposed to be 20 millimeters it's 20.12 that's pretty good let's go here 20.02 and there is no stringing at all on this print so then I printed the kickstarter torture test for 3D printers and this is a beautiful print I'll show you a couple things that are important you'll notice there's a lot of stringing at the very top well many 3D printers won't print the top of this Tower at all because the Stires the spears whatever the correct pronunciation there somebody write in the comments how to pronounce that they're very very very thin but down here at the bottom where they're about one to two millimeter stalks there is no stringing at all the overhangs here whoops well the pins are supposed to come out on here and the first three pins did come out the last two are not coming out so once again I might drop the temperature one more degree and make the retraction just a bit higher or a whole expansion a bit bigger to get those last couple pins out but one of the features on this print that often causes a problem are these overhangs here and they're really really clean on this print and this overhang on the bottom is real clean now why is it so clean I think it's those excellent fans I think there's good Extrusion control good temperature control and excellent fans so what is my conclusion about this 3D printer I stand by my earlier statement that this may be one of the best 3D printers creality has ever made it's very rigid it goes to 300 degrees it has excellent excellent fans it has autobed leveling in included it includes power fail recovery but I wouldn't use it because I think it's more trouble than it's worth they've also done some interesting things the stepper motor on the z-axis is physically bigger and a different model number than the other stepper Motors and on the other creative printers I have so they've done things to ensure that at higher speed it will operate properly so who should buy this well if speed is important to you with high temperature and high quality it's worth the almost 600 bucks if you don't need the speed you can get the high temperature by gaining an end by buying an Ender three S1 Pro it's about a hundred dollars less you won't be able to enclose it though because this has this square body that is easily enclosed for a little more of a hundred dollars with a kit from creality if you just and you can have a little less quality qualities not necessary for you there's some Delta printers out there I'm going to be reviewing a new one that do a good job and we'll see if they've upped their game in terms of quality in general I found the Delta printers and I have an FL Sun super racer that I love I use it for a lot of prototype prints because it's so fast it's even faster in this printer and but the quality is not as good as I can get off of this particular printer so there's a lot of choices today for people you can buy a really good 3D printer from 250 on up if you're looking at the top end of the market I think this is an outstanding outstanding Choice that's fast high speed enclosable has all the features we need well folks thanks for watching I hope you enjoyed this I hope you learned something today if you did give me a thumbs up subscribe to the Channel please share the Channel with everyone you know and go to models.makertech.com to find 3D models that you want to experiment with in print and go to forum.makotech.com to discuss the things you've learned have a great day and let's continue to learn things together

Channel: Make With Tech (MakeWithTech)

Views: 23,232

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Id: dkz4KO6VDDI

Length: 33min 31sec (2011 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 08 2023