Is it the VALVES? Single Cylinder Briggs and Stratton OHV VALVE ADJUSTMENT Procedure and Specs

good morning everyone Jeff's little engine service a little bit chilly out here today it's probably about 40 degrees a little bit wet but we still have projects to do today's project is this pool and riding lawnmower very hard to start the engine have put a new battery in it and that helped a bit made sure it was fully charged but the engine still struggles to turn over I'll show you what I mean and basically what we have here is a 16 horsepower Briggs & Stratton overhead valve engine single cylinder now they call them Intex but this is one of the older versions where they just called a OHV set the parking brake so we can start the engine without having to sit on it [Music] see it's just really tough it's struggling so when you have a situation like that nine times out of ten if you've made sure that the battery was good and that the solenoid was good and your starter motor was good nine times out of ten the problem is that the valves need to be adjusted if the valves aren't opening and closing exactly when they should you're getting too much compression built up inside of there when the engines trying to turn over and it's just struggling so let's set the valves to the proper adjustment I have the manual here and we'll get into it so here are the tools I will use for this job we need a feeler gauges we need a long screwdriver we need a 3/8 sockets I always like to use an extension it just makes everything easier we also need a spark plug wrench we need a ten millimeter wrench and we need a Torx t20 bit very small one and you need a brain all right let's do this first thing you're going to need is a 3/8 socket to remove the valve cover and usually get some oil out of here so you'll want to put a rag underneath it was pretty loose already well I guess they really don't call this version the in-text yet I think this was the predecessor to the enttec energy and the way to get this off is just give it a little rap sometimes you have to get a screwdriver in there and pry it off all right want to be careful not to damage the gasket surfaces when you do it this way there we go and try to get this gasket off cleanly and we can reuse it if we have to all right all right so we have our exhaust valve here and the intake I think it's usually the exhaust that causes the hard start the exhaust valve being out of adjustment another thing we need to do is take out the spark plug the reason we have to take the spark plug out is so we can find top dead center on the engine because you do have to rotate the engine to top dead center to adjust the valves and they usually say to try and make sure it's on the compression stroke I don't know if that makes a big difference but we'll do that I'll try to explain this the best I can but basically we're going to rotate the engine and watch the valves and that will tell us when we're on top dead center on the compression stroke so the screwdriver basically I just stick down in the spark plug hole and as you can see when I rotate the engine the screwdriver goes in and out kind of tells you where the pistons at let's try and figure out where top dead center is on the compression stroke let me zoom in here so I'm rotating the engine clockwise and we want to watch for is the intake valve to compress all right so now we should be going down sucking in fuel into the combustion chamber as you can see the screwdrivers moving down and the intake valve was open so it was sucking fuel in it's now closing both valves are closed as the piston comes back up to the top for the compression stroke also top dead center so what you want to do is you want to watch the screwdriver until it gets to the absolute end of its travel let me move the camera a little bit okay so we're at top dead center pretty close to it and you can rotate the engine back and forth and see how the screwdriver goes in and out but once again we want to get to the top point which is right there so what the manual states you do is you find top dead center which is right there and then you continue to rotate the engine until the screwdriver moves down a quarter-inch so sometimes I mark a spot on the screwdriver but I know what a quarter-inch is so I don't know if you saw that it's a rat top dead center here and I'm going to continue to rotate the engine clockwise until the screwdriver moves down about a quarter-inch that's when you were supposed to adjust the valves right there according to the manual and let's get some specs so it looks like the specifications are three thousandths to five thousands on the intake and five thousandths to seventh thousandths on the exhaust okay so let's go ahead and get to business here what you need is a size 20 Torx bit that's the 10 millimeter there let's start with the exhaust valve and break it loose try and loosen up this set screw without get too crazy now I can see the stud is moving so that's not good you want to tighten this up make sure that studs locked in place this set screw free very fragile components because it's a torx set screw I have to get in a different position there we seems loose there but you know I saw that stud loosen up so I'm going to take this off enough to where I can get in there and it is a ten millimeter and it was very loose you checked this one that's not quite as loose fect yeah let's make sure that we tighten up that's does there yeah that's good okay so the exhaust was 5,000 to 7,000 s let me grab my we'll just go 6,000 C Rand make it kind of tight so at this point you basically just turn the nut and this is where you measure between make sure the little seat is still there between the arm and the valve little cap just finger tight this tighter and that's you can see that on the camera try from above here so this is a six thousandths it's pretty tight we can move it back and forth so I think that's pretty good right there I'm going to try and set there then this is kind of a tricky part to just have to be very careful when setting this set screw you have to hold not here and the setscrew torque it's not very much yeah you lock these torques downs down to like sixty inch pounds so that's just a few what four or five foot pounds so not very much so as as I say when you lock those down you're going to want to hold this alright and I have a calibrated wrist so basically what I do is I just put it there and I just tighten with my wrist just my forearm most people can't generate more than about six pounds of torque just by doing that so that's one of the ways I tighten bolts that have a very low torque spec that's about right yep so under the intake the intake was three to five thousands a nice thing is you Justin both goddang and I loosened up that stud again tighten that sucker not too tight an aluminum head so be careful the trick is to hold this nut in place and you're breaking free this dope doc three to five thousands I've got my four thousands right in between I'm going to make it a little tight that's right set-screw lockdown ah okay yeah cover back on right-side up doesn't matter going either way and I forget what the torque spec is basically the torque spec is not too tight you dumbass that's the torque most bolts lawn mower engines everything is aluminum and you have steel bolts going into lift aluminum threaded areas and so it's easy to strip out and always tighten them in sequence this helps better seal in there and yeah I'm going to reuse this gasket because it'll work once you tighten these down again the gasket was fully intact so wipe off some of the oil so you don't have the fire marshal come here after I fire it up we're almost ready to fire this sucker up hopefully we got everything right because if we didn't no biggie the engine will probably just explode on us much better put on some choke see what happens [Music] you [Music]

Channel: Jeff's Little Engine Service

Views: 664,970

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Id: oBo9Op7uKkc

Length: 17min 13sec (1033 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 30 2016