I Built My Own Helldivers 2 Helmet (and you can too!) #helldivers2 #3dprinting #cosplay

so the Galaxy is an unforgiving and dangerous place that's why you need your very own b01 tactical helmet to help keep your noodle and your family safe cuz you never know when a bot drop or bug breach can happen and today's video I'm going to show you how you can make one for yourself so let's get [Music] started so if you don't know what the exactly this helmet is this is the b01 Tactical helmet from the current popular online game hell divers 2 and while this isn't a gaming channel so I'm not really going to dive into the game itself too much got you there uh hell divers 2 is an online co-op Squad based game you drop in Smash some bugs blow up some toasters complete some objectives and get the heck out before things get too hairy it's a great game I'm having a ton of fun playing it but one thing that I'm actually really hyped about for the game itself is just the Aesthetics of the game it has a very very consistent theme when it comes to the design of the creatures the planets the environments but especially the armors within the game and they've got a very much Starship Troopers Halo ODST kind of vibe to them but with their own spin on them and luckily because of one how popular the game is and two and how great the models themselves look there is a ton of available models out there now for those that want to build some of their own armors and other things from the game of itself so we're going to start with the b01 Tactical helmet and I'm going to show you how you can make one so first things first before you can actually print your helmet you're going to have to get the files for it and you can get the files from multiple different sources and I went with Galactic Armory I'll have a link in the description it's not sponsored Affiliated or anything but I have used Galactic Armory in the past uh for my heavy Mando suit those are mostly Galactic Armory files as well and I like the way they do the models so I downloaded my files from Galactic Armory and then I got to print in and I actually printed the helmet twice uh first I printed at 100% scale uh I taped it all together I tried it on my head and I looked like a bobble head uh one problem that I noticed happens a lot with at home cosplay is people print helmets and make helmets bigger than they need to uh it's always nice to have a comfortable helmet with tons of room the problem is you end up looking like a bobblehead if the helmet's too big and I really don't like the bobblehead look so I reprinted the helmet at a slightly smaller scale um the original model is designed with a 24 in circumference on the head my head is 22 1/2 in so I scal it to I think 94% and that worked out pretty well although it is a little tight and we had to do a little bit of cheating so we'll get to that later now when it comes to print settings I like to print my cosplay stuff a little bit sturdier than most so I do three or four walls uh 25% infill usually four or five top and bottom I'd rather it be a little bit heavier and be a little bit more rigid and robust bust especially when you're working on it and sanding it and whatnot um then it'd be a little bit lighter and risk breaking so that's just what I do and of course I print everything in ABS or ASA uh simply for the fact that I like working with that material better it's easier to postprocess it's way easier to Sand by itself and you can acetone weld it or attach stuff together with like 3D glue now because a lot of Cosplay stuff has curves and weird shapes you probably are going to have to print stuff with supports depends on your printer depends if you can fit stuff in full piece or if you're going to have to slice it up so I'm not going to dive into all the specific settings that I use but after you get everything printed clean up your supports clean up any brim or flashing then you're ready to start postprocessing and this is the part of the build that is the most timec consuming and is the most annoying so I have a specific way of post-processing normally I like taking the parts fresh out of the printer and going right to sanding or at least doing one sanding pass before doing any priming or filling uh with this helmet I tried something a little bit different the first thing did was put two heavy coats of primer filler and you can get primer filler that uses airbrushes I just went with the rattle can method uh simply for the fact that I don't have an airbrush set but I do need to get one because doing these kind of projects with rattle cans gets expensive really quick actually you'd be surprised so I went with a heavy coat primer filler and then I hit it immediately with my Black and Decker Mouse which is an electric sander and I like using this for the first and sometimes second pass of standing simply for the fact that it just knocks down those High edges really quick it it's really good for giving that first once over to just you know get it down get it smooth quick now with abs it is a little bit more temperature resistant than some other Plastics so you can really go at it but don't hit one area too hard too quickly or you'll end up actually melting the plastic which isn't good and after that first pass is done make sure everything's nice and clean and then I go in with a Bondo uh glazing putty and I use that to fill in any areas that are very rough so ver surfaces on 3D printed objects usually aren't too bad but it's areas like on the top here uh where you start getting some really noticeable layer lines uh overhangs that's where you're going to notice you're going to have to do a lot more work to get things smoothed and unfortunately with this armor I couldn't cheat like I did with my heavy Mando suit and use some sort of texture because the models in game are nice and smooth so I had to go and put in the elbow grease to get everything nice and smooth on my helmet so primer sanding filler primer sanding filler just keep repeating the cycle keep repeating the cycle until you get it to the point where you're happy with the helmet so after the first few passes with the electric sander I started hand sanding um different grits use finer grits as you get closer to being finished and the last thing I do is a wet sand with a high grit sandpaper I think I use 320 or 400 and that just goes and gives it one last smooth over uh before you go ahead and get it ready for paint now when it comes to a assembly there are a few different schools of thought I'm personally of the belief it's a lot easier to post-processed Parts before attaching them together uh it just makes it a little bit easier to get in some of the little nooks and crannies and handling may be a little bit easier again depends on the design of the part and that's what I did for this helmet uh there's three main parts to this helmet and then some smaller uh glue on details uh but for the three main parts I post-processed everything separately and then before painting I attached two of them together so the first front part here is actually not firmly attached and that's for sizing reasons but uh the top and the back here these are actually separate parts and I glued them together now you do have a few different ways of uh attaching plastic parts um if since this is ABS I could have just acetone welded it or use something like 3D gloop here but since everything was postprocess and there was paint and Bondo um you weren't going to get a clean surface to use those adhesives so what I did was pretty simple uh I just used hot glue from a hot glue gun uh to just kind of hold everything in place in its final position and then I went through and just used um epoxy on the whole seam so I just got everything in the position I wanted with hot glue made sure I was happy with the alignment and then I filled the entire joint in with epoxy and uh this is going to be the last thing that breaks on it so after that was done it was time to paint now when it comes to painting um you have several different options you could paint this bright fluorescent pink if you wanted to if that's your goal go for it but I wanted something a little bit more screen accurate so I went with metallic black stainless from kryon again in the rattle can and then I heavy weathered it so after uh several coats of paint and again when you're applying your final color light coats it's better to do many light coats than few heavy coats it also help with running uh after you do your painting I go ahead and do any accent paints so for these yellow stripes here I just masked it off with masking tape sprayed that with some yellow paint again kryon gloss Sunbeam is the yellow I used and there's several different designs I used an in-game uh model inspired uh paint scheme for my accents you could do whatever design you want if you if you want you know a yellow mohawk down the center you you do you it's your helmet and then four of these accent pieces here um I just used a stainless silver paint uh that I had I think it might have been kin I don't know where the can went uh but a silver stainless for those glued them on um super glue and epoxy it Ed the right glue for the right location and then for these other little areas um I just Ed a paint brush and again some uh silver paint for that and then I like to dry brush my model so I don't have an airbrush so I can't do airbrushing uh fine detail but I do want to put some kind of of scuff marks on it make it look like you know it's a helmet it's been to a war zone it's been bashed around so I use a technique called dry brushing that's where you use a small paint brush with very short very stiff bristles you put just a little bit of paint on it so what I do is I dab it in the paint and then you dab it in like a cloth or something so there's barely any paint on the bristles themselves and then you just kind of go around and do little streaks um on you know ridges edges um I put scuff marks you know make it look like you know ricochets or you know hell divers dive around a lot so you're going to have a lot of bumps and scratches on your uh your bucket so go around put any wear you want on it if you want to do a a pristine look don't bother with that if you want to do you know some bug guts or some oil you do you make it you know it's your helmet customize it the way you want and after all that is done then I go in and I do the weathering and for that I use a very very simple method um and it's just a wash and all that is is a cup of uh black acrylic paint and water diluted so it it's I don't know what the exact ratio is 1: four 1 to five I don't know just put a little bit of water put a bunch of black paint Stir It Up and then just dab it over the entire helmet I just use a paper towel for that let it dry for a minute or two just let it set a b then go again and dab it again and just do that several times and you get this nice kind of weather look it makes the helmet look like it's been you know it it's been through a few drops it's you know the yellow is nice and dirtied up it gives your exhaust a little bit of wear to them um I like to use the brush to make sure that it's it's heavy in the uh little corners and little divots you know areas where you think Grime would build up in a helmet um you're going to be a little bit heavier there with your weathering again there is no real set way to do this if you have different techniques or you you're inspired by different ways of doing things do it that way it's your helmet and after the painting is done the weathering is done it's time for the final assembly so the first thing I had to do was attached this front piece and because I scaled this for 94% this helmet actually doesn't fit on my head Joy hatless me for a second here it's tight and I probably could get it if I really forced it but getting it off would suck so what I did was and I totally stole this trick from Galactic armories instructional video by the way um I justed used elastic bands here uh so I used hot glue I glued one side let it dry pulled it tight glued it onto the other side of the armor and then I used one more piece here um that's only glued on one of the one sides of the armor so you don't get any light escape uh from there and that allows the helmet to Pivot in the front here so I can put it on and the last thing we have to install on the this helmet is the lens itself because you don't want bot oil getting in your eyes during a uh an extraction there and when it comes to this lens this lens I've got a story for you because this dumb lens cost me two days work and that was because I tried to vacuum form the lens as you can see this lens is not vacuum formed we'll talk about it in a second but I tried to vacuum form the lens and it kind of went okay and then didn't so so what happened well first thing first to to do some vacuum forming you need a vacuum former I don't have one so I built one now luckily I had a bunch of scrap wood on hand um so it didn't really cost me anything other than time to make one you just make a wooden box I use some silicone around all the seams to make sure no air would Escape drill a hole on the side to stick your vacuum hose in and drill a bunch of holes on top so that it basically a reverse air hockey table so it sucks the air down put a little gasket around the outside boom you got a vacuum former uh nothing complicated there uh but when it came to actually vacuum forming the lenses uh first thing was you need a specific kind of plastic I kind of figured you could use pretty much any plastic so I bought some pet sheets off Amazon yeah they don't work they turn opaque they don't work and basically as soon as I got them hot enough to start forming yeah they went from clear to opaque and you couldn't see through them apparently you need petg sheets of plastic which I can find on Amazon Canada but they're 5 in x 5 in which is too small for the lens uh bigm car has them and it would have cost me probably $50 to $80 to get one sheet of plastic so um yeah also my plan for tinting I figure you know what you know I remember that the kitties back when I was in high school they used the stuff called Nightshade to uh to tint their headlights on their their 99 Honda Civics cuz that was cool back then so I figured you know what I'll I'll vacuum form the lens and then I'll uh I'll just tint it with some spray on nightshade um that'll be nice and easy I don't have to fiddle with dying or whatever so I bought the can of nightshade so after the vacuum forming failed I figured you know what I'll just take the last sheet of uh clear plastic here I'll just spray it with Nightshade and I'll just cut a hole out and I I'll use that to make the lens and unfortunately that was a really bad idea because while this actually looks pretty good from this side um this is the side you spray and when you look through it I don't know if you could see on camera the image is blurry as heck so not only is it really dark and tinted which is what you kind of want cuz you don't want to see the eyes through the lens um the image looks like somebody slapped welding goggles on your head and smeared the lenses with Vaseline it would give me a headache after wearing this for 5 minutes and it did so I busted out the credit card again I hit up Amazon again and I went back to Good Old Reliable welding lens uh replacement and that's what I used it's the same stuff I used in the Mando helmet and hey you know what yeah it's missing some details there's supposed to be like a little Ridge under the eyes and a little bump here but you know what it's good enough so I went with that and of course uh just to make sure the bucket fits a little bit better on my noodle I put a little foam on the inside so that holds it in place when I wear it and it doesn't rattle around like a bobblehead so yeah that's how I made my b01 tactical helmet so make sure you subscribe to the channel because you don't want to miss out because after making this one helmet here you know what I'm going to make the whole suit yeah I know I have the T45 power armor that's currently on Hiatus because I just don't have enough room room uh to do a project that big right now um waiting for the weather to get nicer so I can you know sand outside put some hell divers tactical armor is a much smaller project and hey look I've got everything printed already so I guess this week I'm working on some uh Democratic sanding along with some uh potential Freedom bondoing as well so if you want to help support the channel the content I create and the things I do check out the links in the description some of them are affiliate links go a long way of supporting the channel don't cost you anything extra while you're down there don't forget to like that smash button if you have any questions or concerns or comments leave them in the comments below so uh yeah don't forget to swish some bugs spill some oil and spread some managed democracy [Music] cheers

Channel: Nero3D the Canuck Creator

Views: 27,865

Keywords: 3d, printer, printing, 3d printer, 3d printing, 3dp, fdm, fff, filament, voron, nero, nero3d, nero3dp, diy, reprap, hell, divers, helldivers, helldivers 2, helldivers II, II, cosplay, cos-play, prop, helmet, bucket, b-01, tactical, helmet prop, democacy, super earth, HELLDIVER, DIVER, two, galactic, armory, props, lens, vacuum, form

Id: rv--3t_rg7I

Length: 16min 31sec (991 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 14 2024