I built a HELLDIVERS 2 helmet! 3D Printed, Full tutorial

hey everyone welcome to the channel my name is John and this is my very first video here today we're going to be making a hell divers b-01 tactical helmet um it's kind of the grunt helmet from Hell divers if you don't know what hell diers is it's uh a video game that hell divers 2 just came out recently um and I've been putting way too many hours into it it's basically Starship Troopers the video game and I can't get enough of it so we got to do some justice and put a helmet on the shelves here um a little background about me since it is my first video I've been doing 3D printing prop making stuff for about a year and a half now so not a super a long time but I feel like long enough to have a pretty good handle on it I've learned some good tips and tricks and I just hope to share a lot of that with you guys so um we'll take you through the full process my full process anyway there's a lot of different ways to do this but we'll go through my full process with this particular build get an awesome looking helmet at the end and hopefully you guys can pick up some of that information as well um so we're going to hop into the slicer settings here I'll go through everything um from slicer to finish so you guys get the whole process um the files I'm using are from Galactic armoring it was part of their February patreon bundle which I believe was like $15 you can also buy the files I think directly from their website um and there's also some free files for these type of helmets floating around somewhere on thingy verse imprintables maker World things like that as well so uh let's get to it [Music] guys all right so here we are in Orca slicer I have the file pulled up and I've actually already had and G and sized it to myself I Believe by default these come sized for 24 in diameter head U my head is about 23 1/2 in so I size it down to 97% instead of 100% if you don't know how to do that super easy you just click on your file you click this little scale button here and you type in whatever percentage you want you just have to make sure that you do that for each piece otherwise they might not all fit together um outside of that this comes pre-plated and presup it pretty well the default profile for this is actually for an x1c I have a p1p so I had to change that up here uh to make sure that it works with my printer don't forget to change your bed type if you need to as well um I'm going to print this in a16 layer height makes the details A Little Bit Stronger especially on areas like this cryo Port back here and some of the vents up front everything else on this quality side is basically default if we go to strength the only thing I changed is they had it on a cubic pattern by default I changed that to gyroid I pretty much print everything in gyroid it's a very good balance of strength durability and it doesn't add too much print time at all if any everything else on here is default um speed I don't touch that at all uh support um enabled support they have it default to tree Auto supports um I actually had to change that to tree um slim supports um and I just ignored this stuff here because it's going to try to take away your top interface W walls so I just put no on that you want this top Z distance to be about2 millim that's basically the distance between the top of the support and the structure that it's supporting so if you take that down to a zero then you're basically fusing the support with the print itself not impossible to get off it just takes a little bit more elbow grease to get off and you might have to file some of those support s down cuz you're probably not going to get all of them off make sure that that's there um I don't know why it wouldn't fit on my build plate um on the p1p when let's going to tree slim but that's what I printed on it worked fine for me threshold angle I left at 30 remove small a overhangs was checked everything else on here I left a default another thing to note here at the dome is they do have it prepainted for support So if you click on it and you go to support painting you can see that they've blocked out a big section of it here they've also left a section of it here support so you are going to have a tree that builds in the middle here and I think that that is because of kind of the flat nature of the top of the helmet here a lot of times domes like traditional domes like a a daredevil Helmet or an Iron Man helmet or something that has like an actual Dome on top you don't need to support the middle of it because it basically stair steps its way up um so you're not ever really printing on thin air but because this one's kind of flat on top I feel like that's why they left it in there so I didn't mess with that I didn't try to print without it I just left that in there as well so if you slice that plate this is what you get here everything looks good nice and supported so we're ready to move on to Printing and I'll see you guys in the garage for the first steps of processing all right hey we're down in the garage now I know it's a little bit different lighting the Acoustics might not be great but it's kind of what I have to work with so I also know that it is a little cluttered don't worry I know pretty much where everything is so it it's fine the prints came out really good we have um this is that back piece here uh you can see I haven't taken the supports or anything off yet kind of wanted to show you guys how it would come out how it would print these should be pretty easy to remove um here's the visor piece here that kind of goes on the front and not too bad there and then we have the big dome piece which pretty standard supports for that this is that Center support in there that I think again just helps that little flat spot kind of build up we do get some good stair stepping you can see in there that we'll have to smooth out to make this look really good and that shouldn't be too hard to do at all all right so we got most of the supports off here however this little face piece here that goes over your mouth did have some supports that would just get sucking these little grooves down in here um I'm going to probably have to hit those with a metal file and just file them down uh cuz they are just they are just glued on really really hard um other than that everything else came off some little rough edges at the bottom where they were attached to be expected the back piece looks really good really no issues with that one and then the Dome uh looks great as well all right guys so we're going to smooth down some of these edges here these kind of rough ones that got through and all I'm going to do with that is you just take a metal file you can use sandpaper metal file just goes through a little bit quicker and we just kind of drag it over to get those edges knocked down all right all the big stuff has been knocked down uh these are pretty smooth they're going to need a little bit more sanding and probably a little bit of Bondo filler in some of these places just to make the bottom of the helmet really smooth feel that's the part that a lot of people neglect is they don't do the bottom the underside um this will obviously be covered but some of the this stuff up by the visor is still going to be seen so I want to make sure that that's nice and smooth as well we'll get to that a little bit later but metal file around the rough edges goes a long way all right so we're ready for the next part here you can see there's a little bit of wardrobe change and a haircut it got pretty cold here in the Midwest I don't really like working in a 45 degree garage and I never really know how spray paint's going to react in that so um took about a week break and now we're ready to get back to it the next big step is going to be smoothing out the print um while it was cold I did go ahead and Pla weld it together you can you can see some of those welding seams in through there um I'm really good at video recording so I forgot to record how to do that but I am going to show you guys why I do this and why it's very very very stable and how to get a really good result with that it only takes a couple seconds if you guys are really comfortable with pla welding feel free to skip this part um but I'm just going to go through it real quick with these two little calibration tabs and I'm just going to weld those together and show you guys how that that is done all right so the first thing you want to do is you want to have your soldering iron turned on um I like the little bladed tip there it gives you a good surface area to really get in there um and then you want to tape your tabs together or tape your pieces together that you're going to be using so they're not sliding around on you and all we're doing with this is we're just melting plastic on one side and then kind of pushing it over to the other side um so you don't really need to worry too much about this it's pretty easy to do you just want to want to make sure that you don't go super heavy-handed and push down really hard and push through it these Tabs are really thin so they're about probably the thinnest thing that I've ever really done this on and it's still pretty forgiving and so it's just melting plastic on one side and kind of pushing it over to the other side you can go back and forth side to side it doesn't really matter as long as you're just pushing melted plastic into that seam and kind of on the other side you can then go back and try and smooth it out if you want if you kind of care how it looks and this is really good for if you're welding swords anything these bigger things that you really need to uh have some good structural Integrity on and you can see here that we have a pretty solid weld not the prettiest thing in the world but if you're doing this on like a sword or something that needs structural Integrity you just put a little Bondo or wood filler on there and you can smooth that right back out but the reason we do this is it makes this very very strong I mean these are not coming apart I could bend it and snap it and make them come apart but for the purposes of holding stuff together and fusing Parts this is a really really easy way to do it so we're ready to start smoothing the print down now and there's a few ways to do this um I've done pretty much all of them the Bondo acetone just sand Prime sand Prime on repeat um the way that I like to do it that's that I find is the fastest and most efficient for time to get those layer lines smooth is using just some uh UV resin this is just some lgu pla gray it bonds with the pla helmet really well and it just gets in there and Smooths it really well it is a more involved process because you do need more items to do this you need the resin um I always encourage people to get some talcum powder some actual talcum powder um because you kind of mix that in with the resin and the cup and it helps the resin thicken up a little bit and helps fill those lines a little quicker then you also need a couple brushes or foam brushes um big spreader brush and a little detail brush so it doesn't pull up too much and you need a you need a spray bottle of icy propyl alcohol to wipe the resin off last but not least you need some sort of UV light to cure the resin so a lot of material is involved in this but once you get everything set up and you have everything it's actually a pretty quick process and another thing also resin is not really good for you to breathe or to get on your skin so make sure you wear proper PPE while doing this um but the the theme is pretty simple you just kind of paint the resin on it's self-leveling it's liquid so it's going to fill in all those grooves pretty good and I'll probably do about half the helmet at a time cure it do the other half cure it and then just kind of probably do two or three coats of that across the whole thing and when applying this resin remember it is UV activated so do it in a room with no sunlight if you're in a garage don't crack the garage if you're in a window or in your room make sure that the shutters are closed the blinds are closed cuz any sunlight in there can start to cure the resin before it gets on the print and worst case it starts curing the resin in the bottle and then you have to throw away the rest of the bottle so what we're going to do is we're just going to pour the resin in we're going to mix it up in our little cup and this is roughly a 2:1 ratio it's not really an exact science for this put the lid back on your resin bottle so you don't spill it and then we're just kind of mixing that talcum powder in there so while doing this resin brushing Tech Tech you use the Big Brush obviously for the majority of the coverage the little detail brush is basically to spread out the resin that's going to try to pull in these little corners and stuff those little detail Parts on the helmet if you cure it while it's pulled up there you're going to have a thicker bit of resin it's going to be harder to sand out it's not worth it just use a little detail brush sometimes you can use a toothpick or even a popsicle stick as well just to get that little pulled resin out of there and move it around uh be sure that you also hit the unders size of the visor area the bottom of the helmet the edges around the bottom um just to make everything really nice and smooth kind of all the way around really easy to forget those parts all right so we're done with the resin coating I still wearing the respirator I haven't wiped it off with the uh IPA yet but you can see there is a lot of stair stepping right here up at the very very top and the reason that we do the resin coating and that I think it's the fastest we look at that now horizontally you can barely see any stair stepping we haven't done any sanding any primer any Bondo wood filler nothing at all this is just with two quick coats of resin it took about maybe 15 20 minutes total to do two coats and a curum so next thing I want to do is I'm going to spray the whole helmet down with iced prople alcohol wipe it off that just gets rid of any of the uncured resin and gives you a safe handling surface and just gets rid of any of that like tackiness that comes with resin so we have a totally resin coated uh helmet now and a nice bit of mask beard if anybody tried to maintain a beard through Co you know all about that um but next step is to sand this down it is pretty smooth but it is not perfectly smooth there's still some imperfection there's some areas where kind of the resin pulled and ran a little bit you can kind of see those little ridges there all that's just going to have to be sanded out and unfortunately with 3D prop making there's really no way to avoid sanding so um get used to it however with resin it is a little harder than standard pla or like pet G so I do recommend picking up some sort of electric sander it doesn't have to be an orbital uh the mice Sanders are super nice as well um but we're going to start with about an 80 grit sandpaper some people do 60 grit some people do 120 anything between like 60 and 120 for that first coat just to knock down some of that excess resin and start that sanding smoothing process oh and a side note definitely wear a respirator when you do this as well be a well vented area you can open up the garage now open up the windows whatever um but this is going to create a bunch of little micro pieces of resin and you don't want to be breathing that in so the helmet is ready to go I went ahead and washed it off already make sure after you sand you go through you give it a good rinse maybe use some soap and a soft sponge just to really get all the debris off of there before you put on that first coat of primer um it'll make a world of difference um in helping that primer kind of stick in it here so this is ready to go um I've also got the little accent pieces I just taped them to a little piece of cardboard here so that the spray paint doesn't blow them around um I've got my homemade spray booth here um if you guys want kind of a tutorial on how to make that or you're interested in this it's very easy it costs probably less than $50 I think and it's basically just poster board a filter and a HVAC van so um I can put that together sometime leave me a comment if you if you're interested in seeing how that works um but we're going to go ahead and put the first coat of primer on everything and uh see where we're at quick side note I'm using the dupli color sandable primer here I've used the Rustoleum sandable primer too they're basically the same I don't know that this one is significantly better I was just kind of trying it out I think it's a few more dollars it can I don't know that it's a few dollars better than just the rum stuff I haven't noticed a huge difference but it is nice so with this Koda primer be really generous with it it wants to go on wet you need a nice thick layer for it to really fill in and if you have any overruns or any drips or anything like that you're going to be sanding it down anyway so not a big deal be generous with this coat so the first coat of primer is now dry we still have a few little layer lines that we're going to have to put some Bondo on or spot putty if you don't have that you can use uh wood filler as well works really great so really the resin did a great job of filling in most of these layer lines there's just a couple spots on top that I put the putty on kind of right there on the sides right where it starts stair stepping a little bit towards the top of the print a couple little areas down on the bottom and then I always make sure to do a little bit on these bottom edges that kind of sit on the build plate because they can get a little rough get a little porous looking especially if there's a support that was used there or anything like that and you want to make sure that you don't miss this part because anyone looking up is going to notice that so um really the biggest thing with this kind of stage of the print is the more time you put into getting things nice and smooth filling those layer lines in sanding it really well even if you have to sand and Prime multiple times the better result you're going to have don't skip steps or don't rush in this part and then get to a basically finished product that is a little bit disappointing to yourself because oh if I had spent 10 more minutes with the Bondo or 10 more minutes sanding then these things that are showing through in the final paint layer wouldn't be there anymore it's a lot harder to go back and fix it after you've painted everything than it is to fix it in this stage so spend some time on this really get everything nice and uh smooth exactly how you want it to be so it's the next day and the helmet is ready to be painted I sanded down the spot putty in the primer with a 220 grit sandpaper put another layer of uh filler primer on top of that and then a wet sand with 600 grit paper so it's nice and smooth and ready to rock a quick recap of my whole process was just two layers of you V resin um and then we did a sanded that down with an 80 grit then we did a layer of filler primer on top of that added spot putty do the obvious uh marks and Mars that were going to be on there then sanded that with a 220 grit one more layer of filler primer on top of that and then a wet sand with 600 grits paper um I have a sink that I do the wet sanding in it's super easy to do if you haven't done it you basically it's exactly what it sounds like you just get the helmet wet and you get the Sandpaper wet and you get in there and just sand it down like like you normally would dry what that does is it helps give it a very smooth surface so something that's going to be really shiny like if you were doing say like a Doctor Fate Helmet or something that really shiny metallic gold wet sanding in progression up to like a 1 1600 or even a 2,000 grit sandpaper is a great idea cuz it's going to give it that really nice polish this I just did one round of w wet sanding with the 600 grit because it's not a super bright super shiny helmet I just wanted it to be smooth enough and have a little bit of that like metallic shap to it without being a like mirror reflective type surface um if you don't have a sink that you can do this or a hose that you can wet sand in go to the hardware store grab a Big 5 gallon empty paint bucket fill it halfway up with water and you can wet sand with that just dip the helmet or the part in sand it dip it in rinse it and just keep going back and forth with that super easy way to kind of work around not having a utility sink for paints I'm going to go with uh the first layer we're going to hit it with the Rolan this is just a flat black it's a very dark helmet pretty much all the way around and so this will give us a very very nice base coat there and especially with the fact that the helmet is pretty much a matte black through this kind of uh Rim Mohawk type area and then the front through here is a matte black and then I believe even up through here this kind of like visor border area is all kind of a matte black on there so that'll give us a really good base coat for everything else while also coloring the appropriate shade for the areas that need it too and then the other color I'm going to use use is this I haven't tried this yet but it's a metallic dark metal it's a kryon metallic dark metal um we'll see how this works the helmet itself is not if you look at all the reference images it's not completely black so I wanted almost like a gunmetal type finish to it with a little bit of that metallic Sheen without being too bright but without being completely black if you don't want to do this and you have black laying around you could absolutely do this with like a flat black for the Mohawk and the visor uh part here and then a like satin black for everything else we totally fine um I'm just going to give it a little more bit of a metallic look so we're going to go with this here um and then for the yellow paint I have this old can of Montana black that I used for a Boba Fett helmet for the kill stripes on the side of it it's technically a melon yellow but it's going to be close enough for me I'm not too worried about it so that's what we're going to do for the yellow accent mark on the helmet on the first coat here you start with kind of a light to medium dusting and then you go back in and fill in the blanks you don't want to go too heavy cuz you don't want to cause runs you're going to have to standand back down later here you can see that everything's been taped off and we're just going going in and filling in everything that's not supposed to be that matte black while preserving the face visor and the Mohawk all right so I just finished I put on the coat of this uh this kryon metallic dark metal paint and it is not it is not the move this is very silvery it's not nearly as dark as I had hoped it was going to be it's a beautiful paint it looks really good and it covered really great it's just not going to be the paint for this project so I went and picked up a black satin and I'm going to go over this with a black satin at this point I've covered all the dark gray metal Parts with the black satin and I've raped the helmet to paint those yellow accent marks I chose to go with the two thick lines in the vents and then the one big thick line on the left side of the helmet so the helmet is finally painted I had some issues with the paint on these little side vent pieces where it kind of uh orange peeled up pretty good I don't know why it did it it's just one of those things that happens sometimes it could have been the humidity it could have been the temperature could have been the paint could have been it was dust on there I have no idea why but it orange peeled up on both of the side vent so I had to wait for that to dry which takes like 14 15 hours cuz then you have to sand it back down to get a smoother coat of paint on it you can kind of see here on this side right through here there's still a little bit of that orange peeling on there but you know this is a hell divers helmet we go down and we're fighting bugs with flamethrowers so this is a little this is a little blowback from that flamethrower that melted that paint up in my lore for this helmet you know I could sand this whole thing back down and get it perfect again um you have to decide is that worth your time for me not really we're going to battle damage this Pro tip anything that gets messed up during the way that's kind of a small easy fix you just battle damage over it and it looks good in the end so this is looking pretty good to where I want it to be a couple other things we have to paint I have to put the skulls on the side I haven't quite decided how I'm going to do that yet I think I'm going to try to use a stencil technique um just print them out on a piece of paper and cut them out slap it on there and paint it the only issue with that is that thin printer paper is going to want to kind of peel or kind of roll up a little bit um when it gets wet so I'm going to have to do it light enough to not do that but also heavy enough so that the skull actually uh sits on there that's my plan for now ideally if you have like a cry cut like vinyl sticker maker thing just make a vinyl sticker slap that on there clear coat over it that'll be way easier I don't have that so I'm going to go with the stencil uh we'll see how it works here you can see I've taped off everything except for a little window to paint the skull on I printed out two different sizes of skull I chose the smaller one cuz the big one was way too big the small one might be just a little bit too small but it's good enough we'll put it on there and see what it looks like the skulls are painted on it came out better than expected it's not perfect this one will need a little bit of clean up with a just a white brush and some acrylic um and then this one actually came out pretty nice I'll have to go in by hand with a brush and manually paint the little eyes which are not going to be perfect circles but again battle damage right and then I got to paint little nose piece on there too so I'll just do those manually with some black acrylic paint and then it's just a matter of adding some little metal areas where the paint's been scratched off from Battle damage and giving it a nice black wash gluing in the visor and uh we're pretty much done all right we got the skulls on there we got the eyes paint in um they look like skulls they're not perfect you know like I said a vinyl sticker a decal would be way easier to do I didn't have that so we may do um next is what I'm going to do is kind of add some battle damage some patent chipping um that kind of exposes the underlying metal um the way that I do that there's several ways to do this if you have like a silver acrylic paint you can do that I just use some um like Chrome or silver spray paint that I have laying around just kind of depends on what's available to me um and I just use like a piece of cardboard and I just spray this onto there and then with my dedicated weathering brush I just dip it into that and then I go around and make those little chips um it usually turns out pretty well after that we blackwash clear coat and then we'll glue in the visor when adding this type of paint chipped style battle damage it's really important to think about how a helmet would actually be used in the field it's going to be these Corners these areas that stick out a lot that are going to be most often taking any blows or getting scraped when you're diving around things like that so a lot of the chipping will happen on these really sharp strong edges um and then go back later and I'll add some basically paint chips like you know if shrapnel was flying or debris were flying that would hit the more broad side of the helmet but most of this style battle damage is happening along the edges so now that the Finish is damaged we got those little paint chips on there but this doesn't really complete the battle damage cuz it still looks like a new helmet with just paint chips so next thing we got to do is do a black wash and that's what's going to give it that kind of greasy grimy field used look um and to do that you just take some water and some acrylic black paint I use a cup just put it in a cup stir it around you're going to go over it multiple times with different layers let it sit for 10 to 30 seconds depending on your dilution and then you wipe it off with a paper towel and you just kind of scuff at it wipe it off with a paper towel that's going to kind of tint everything in nice dark black and look like there's oil in there and naturally it's going to settle into a lot of these like little grooves down in here and these little little gaps and crevices and get darker kind of towards the deeper areas and stay lighter on the areas that would get brushed up more my black wash is done here you can see it gives it it's pretty quick to do it doesn't take a lot you're just kind of building up those layers and now we have that kind of grimy look in there the light might be a little too bright there but you can kind of see there's some like uh looks like oil or dirt or whatever now I mean blackwashing a black helmet you're not going to get a lot of the depth that you do if you black wash say like a daredevil helmet that's red or an Iron Man helmet that's red and gold right but you can see it really well on these kind of vents where it kind of settles into the bottom there just like dirt or or wet mud wood um and then along the yellow striping as well some a bit over the skulls and it kind of helps to dim down some of those paint chips so it doesn't look like a new helmet with just chipped paint right kind of gives it that better uh more field used look you could go back and do a brown wash with this same thing you just use brown paint instead of black and give it that kind of different dirt type look but again it's a really dark helmet it's not going to stand out hugely I'm happy with the way this looks so I'm just going to wait for it to dry and we're going to clear coat it and put the visor in my helmet has been clear coated it is looking pretty good ready to put the visor and I do this a little bit different um if you're going to actually just order the visor because it is technically have like a or it does technically have like a little vacuum formed ledge on there I believe Galactic Armory is selling the actual vacuum form visors like I mentioned earlier I don't have a vacuum former so I'm going to do this the way I would do like a Mandalorian visor and the way that I do that is with this here um this is just uh acetate plastic this is I believe 4 mil mil is the thickness of this which makes it the same thickness as like the Hobart welding mask Shields that a lot of people will use for the t- visors in the Mandalorian um helmets and so I get that instead you get a five pack of these for like 12 bucks and then you just get some window tent of whatever grade you want this is limo tent and just like you would tent a car window or anything you just put it on it's just soap water and you just kind of lay it on it sticks it aderes really well it's a lot cheaper mean I can get two t visors out of one of these for $2 as opposed to you know $10 for a hobar visor so this is the way I do it and just like that we are all done the helmet is totally finished um it looks pretty good I my camera was turned off when I was recording the uh visor the battery ran out um so I didn't get to put that in there but really all I do for this is I take a sheet of printer paper or notebook paper I just put it in the inside of the helmet and kind of hold it so it blocks out this area from the inside I take a sharpie or a marker and I just Trace all the way around the outside um through the outside of the helmet and then that gives me a good model of what a perfectly fitting visor would do I cut that out but I leave about a half inch um extra width from where I traced to where I'm actually cutting out and then I just put that down on my uh my visor template my plastic and I cut that out and we end up with something that looks a lot like that enough space on there to go around enough space that you need to if you need to trim it off you can and a good area for the glue to adhere to without being visible in the visor as well so that's what it looks like hot glued in I added some pads in there for a little more snug of a fit and so yeah that's it I played the game a little bit last night and I noticed that my skulls are a little bit off they're about 10% smaller than they should be and they should really be placed right about here instead of kind of up here so I mess that up just a touch not a big deal I'm not too worried about it just like me this looks pretty good from far away so we keep it as it is um if I get a wild hair one day maybe I'll go and fix that so I'm happy with it it fits perfectly we're ready to rock don't mind the beard it's uh cosplay is not beard friendly but uh that's it guys thanks for watching hell divers see you in there

Channel: JohnsPrintLab

Views: 9,520

Keywords: helldivers, helldivers 2, 3d printing, 3d printed prop, cosplay, helldivers helmet, 3d printing cosplay, 3d print, 3d printed armor, 3d printed helmet, 3d print finishing, how to smooth 3d print

Id: 4Rn4UB2YlDE

Length: 29min 45sec (1785 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 19 2024