Hydro-static drive Fluid change

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okay so i've got everything pretty well sorted on this tractor everything's running great well it's got 235 hours on it and the only thing that i haven't done yet that i want to do is to change the fluid in the hydrostatic transmission holds just under six quarts and has an oil filter and the service manual says you never have to change it unless it's contaminated and i don't know any of the history of this thing so just to be on the safe side i'm going to drain it and put some brand new fluid in it so i thought i'd take you along for the ride now the service manual suggests that you remove the deck to do this job i don't feel like removing this deck it weighs 300 pounds it's big and heavy i did a video on it it's not that hard but i don't know that it's necessary i mean here's the oil filter right here that i need to remove and to get it out i need to remove this bar this is kind of like they call it an anti-sway bar it's almost like a panhard bar for the deck so the deck stays centered underneath the tractor under hills but that bar goes right across the the oil filter so with that bar in the way you can't get the filter out so i got to take this nut off and i just think it's easier to take the wheel off than to take the deck off so i'm going this route and so the next step is to remove that nut and drop that bar out of the way let me show you what that bar looks like from the other side okay here it is right here see how it kind of goes right in front of the oil filter and i'll try to unscrew that filter it's going to bump right into that bar so we got to loosen that bar drop it down out of the way and then we can just spin that oil filter right off all right so here's a look at that nut and i've got a 13 millimeter socket and i'm just going to go by hand i don't need to want to break anything this is coming off very easy okay there it is it's got a neoprene washer in it so it doesn't have to be torqued to tight and it won't loosen up all right i was not able to drop that bar down because it's kind of locked in there i'm gonna take this nut off see if i can get anywhere with that it's kind of locked in there but i don't know if i can swing it down like that out of the way perhaps to get that filter off i'm gonna see hopefully it will come off just by taking those nuts off and being able to swing that bar down like that okay so i got my oil pan in place there's the oil filter hopefully that's not on there too tight we can break that loose and see if we can get it off okay let's see if we can get this thing off of here oh it's not tighter if it's just been on a long time but it don't want to come off too easy that's budging she's turning that doesn't have to be this tight but what can i do get it off so there we go there we go okay i gotta hope i can get it past this bar this rod sure do hope yay all right that wasn't too bad could have been a lot easier but wasn't too bad so we'll let that whole thing drain out and then we'll pull the drain plug as well should be nearly six quarts in that thing i mean the new fluid looks clear that looks a little dark so i'm kind of happy i'm doing this okay i want to clear off this face here where the new oil filter is going to screw to it there's a lot of dirt there so i want to wipe it clean but i don't want the dirt that i'm wiping to be falling into this rear end housing so i think what i'm going to do is stick some paper towels in there look at that at least when i'm wiping off the top of it all right so now i can wipe off the top this surface right here get it nice and clean without fear of dirt falling right into my differential alright so i'm going to spray some wd-40 on a rag wd-40 is a good cleaner get that surface nice and clean because i don't know what part of that surface the seal on the oil filter is going to mate to and i don't want to get any dirt and grime pinch underneath the seal and have it leak uh i think that's good clearly quite the bottom of it and don't worry about things falling down into the pan all right that looks pretty good okay we've also got a 16 mil drain plug at the bottom here now drain every last bit of oil out of this thing okay we should be pretty well empty at this point all right just a quick cleaning actually oh the rubber gasket there okay it's nice and clean and put a rubber gasket back on our drain plug like an o-ring and we're ready to put this back in just tighten up so it doesn't it's not going to back out but i don't want to crank it too tight that's perfect i don't know what the spec is there but experience tells me that should be good okay and so here's what i'm using genuine cub cadet stuff i'm not going to screw around drive system fluid plus synthetic blend there's the part number and i'm going to use the genuine cub cadet oil filter there's the part number for that as well and so now let's go spin that filter on and start adding some fluid plus to the system okay so here we go i've got a little bit of film a little bit of oil that i put on this gasket and plenty of room here we're just going to spin this thing on there we go all right just made contact i'm just going to tighten this by hand that's good enough right there i don't want to distort that rubber seal it's tight enough it's not going to come off and then when it comes time if i ever want to change this again that should spin off easier than this last one did okay now i'm going to put the nuts back onto this bar let me get started on both sides okay tighten this and this bar is loose so i'm just going to hold it and binding up while i tighten this [Music] kind of bottomed out there on something so i think that's about as tight as that needs to go i remember it had a lot of play when i took it off so i think that's correct and here's the nut on this side bottomed out on something as well and yet there's still play in that bar so that's that's the way it was so that's good okay now we're going to refill it with some fresh oil right through the dipstick hole almost six quarts and i'm just going to put maybe a quarter of this in until we purge everything and then we'll check the level and top it off i don't want to overfill it now it's hard to take oil out but you can always add a little bit okay now we're going to purge the system i'm going to make sure this thing is solid and to purge the system we've got to disengage the transmission start the engine and cycle it full reverse and full forward six times and then engage the transmission in full forward and full reverse six times and that should be it so let's do that so [Music] now i've got to engage it and we'll do it again [Music] so okay we should be done now let's put the wheels back on and take it for a test drive stock them down by hand when i get on the ground just to see how tight they really are [Music] and here we are back on the ground yes perfect you see that right at the line good i'm calling it good all right let's take my test right here oh [Music] [Music] uh [Music] okay test drive went good i went great variable speed forwards reverse got good control good power i mean i can crawl with the thing i can go up to six miles an hour everything went great which is what i expected because i didn't see any issues through the job and i think this thing is pretty well sorted now i mean i don't know of any other things that i need to do to it at this point except use it and just keep an eye out for any issues that might come up but as of right now this thing is good to go so i hope you enjoyed that uh please subscribe to the channel and until next time thanks for watching
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Channel: Dave Raymond
Views: 28,553
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Dave Raymond, Hydrostatic drive, Hydrostatic Transmission, Hydrostatic, Hydrostatic fluid change, how to change fluid in a hydrostatic transmission
Id: 4U_1xZTNMxU
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 18min 23sec (1103 seconds)
Published: Thu Sep 09 2021
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