- Hi, I'm Davin Reckow with Hagerty, and I'm the dirty hands behind
all the Redline Rebuilds. - I'm Ben Woodworth, also with Hagerty, and I am the guy behind
the camera for all these. And yeah, we're here today to dissect and go through out Ford
289 Redline Rebuild. - Here we go. - All right. - Look at that clean shop floor, huh? - [Ben] The shop. So what do we have here? - Sweet, so here we have
a 1964 by casting number Fairlane 289 Ford engine. If you're a Chevy guy, it
looks like it's all built backwards because the oil pan, the pick up is in the front of the
motor instead of the back. Of course, the exhaust
manifolds are on correctly going out the back, but
the distributor hangs out the front. But, for all intents and
purposes, this is an original motor. It came out of a garage
that had been sittin' for quite awhile. It's actually not too
horrible on the outside. But, it's definitely been leaking some oil and has some time on it. So, it's ready for some freshening. - Just some details here. It's grimy, it's rusty. Okay, so getting started here. Oh, shiny new engine stand. - Yeah, we got blessed with
a brand new engine stand. - [Ben] Okay so, break
down is typically pretty straightforward. I mean you're just unbolting everything. - Yep, basically just unbolt everything. Start at the top, down,
and pull the tin work out of the way and so on and so forth. - Well, is there anything
you're looking for as you break down the stuff? We basically know we're
doing, obviously we're going into this knowing we're
doing a full tear down. But, like what stuff
are you making note of? - Well for instance,
if you were going to be reusing the valve covers,
you know I'd be looking for rust holes in them,
that type of thing. Those are actually in excellent condition being new old stock on there. And, then after that,
you know I'd be looking at the intake manifold, making
sure that there's no cracks, no huge warps in it. Look at the threads,
inspect them as far as being stripped out. And, then once you get that
off, you start to really see the tale of how this was cared for. That nasty sludge build up that's in there is, in my mind, a lot of heat cycles and a lot of no oil changes. So the oil ran a little
longer than it should, and the motor was warm quite
a few times I would say. It doesn't appear to have an issue like with the head gasket because then that oil would be more of I call it a coffee color 'cause I like cream in my coffee. But, it would be real brown and frothy. - And, that would be from
the coolant getting into it. - That'd be from the
coolant mixing in, yeah. - [Ben] At this point when
you're tearing it down, there's nothing catastrophic about it. You're not thinking about like oh man, - [Davin] No. - [Ben] this thing threw a
rod, or anything like that. This is just an engine
out of a wrecked car that's been sitting for 30 years. - Yep, but as I go
through it, I like to put together a list of all the
pieces I'm gonna change or need knew, you know
like a new crank bolt, like a new water pump, you know name it, fresh rocker studs. (Ben laughing) Yeah, that's, like I said, very ugly. - Yeah, that is. I mean even when we took
it to Thirlby to have them clean it. They were at it for
awhile with the scraper. - Yeah, and they like to scrape stuff off before they fill their parts
cleaner full of the gook, get the big stuff off. I don't blame 'em for that. - [Ben] So we knew
going into this this was going to be an upgraded engine. What do we know? I mean the whole point of this. Kind of walk me through. - [Davin] Yeah, so what
we knew is this was just the run of the mill 289, two barrel cast iron intake, you
know the low power version of that. I don't want to call it
mundane because it's still a V8, and it's still snappy. But, we wanted to go with
more a build to the Cobra Shelby type spec, you
know the next upgrade which would take this from, what ballpark about 260 horse roughly up
to in the 310s, 310 zone. - [Ben] So this is Ford's
version of the like the Chevy smaller, the 350 small block. - Yeah, this is Ford's small block, 289 cubic inches. It's a four inch bore. And, in that four inch bore, it's the same as a 350 at that point. It just has a shorter stroke,
so it likes to rev quicker which is a benefit in certain aspects. - [Ben] With this being
a 289, it went into a lot of cars in the mid '60s. - Yes, it went into everything. I mean the big pieces it
would go into would be a Fairlane as a for instance. Of course it was in the Mercurys as well, Mercury versions. But, you did have the
Ford Falcons that got the upgrade. You had in your especially
your lightweight packages. And, then the onset was into the Mustangs. So this particular motor is
what they refer to as the early or the five bolt engine. It only has literally
five bolts across the back where the bell housing attaches
to it for the transmission. In '65, they changed it to six bolt. I'm assuming they realized
that it wasn't quite strong enough. They were having some issues. And, doing that though,
the package also got a little bit wider in the backside of it as far as the transmission. So this smaller, narrower
package, you know fits nicely in some of the littler cars. And, then also keep in mind that Ford from an overall packaging standpoint, this motor is quite narrow. And, part of the reason it was able to go in in such a versatility
of cars is your Falcons and your Mustangs were
all shock tower cars. And, when you do the shock
towers, that engine bay gets really narrow. The hoods might be just
as big as anything else, but the shock tower, the
package area is really narrow. So it really limited it. But, this motor is narrow, so it helped you know fit that V8 into those cars. - So even with the performance upgrades, you're still at a narrow width. So you can do those upgrades
without having to worry about making room under the hood. - Correct, yep. - [Ben] Continuing on
with the disassembly, walk me through kind of. - Yeah so here just basically took off the exhaust manifold and
then take all the head bolts out. There's been some
discussion relative to none of the head bolts come out. They all break. I honestly have not had that issue, but I can certainly see
where it could be a problem. But, that would be with any engine. It wouldn't be specific
to this particular one. And, you can see it is grimy. In fact, it's really interesting. There was actually a little chunk of nail and a piece of wood in the intake area. So I'm not sure how that got there. (Ben laughing) - Interesting. - It is so grimy. The reason I have a pair
of pliers that'll grab on the inside. And, what I'm doing here
is I actually have to pull those lifters out and ultimately tap them out of the holes because there's so much varnish build up because the
block has a casting piece, let's call it an inch of a bore. Well, the lifter hangs on the topside and on the bottom side. Well it hangs more to the
bottom, and what'll happen is you'll get varnish
built up from the oil on the bottom side, but
they have to come out that way. Well, you have to get it past that, so you gotta break off gunk
if you will, to get it out. So it's just flat out a dirty engine. That's what happens. - And, you're not reusing these lifters? - No. No, we're gonna replace
the hydraulic camshaft with a solid lifter camshaft
for that bump in horsepower. - [Ben] Off comes the oil pan. Anything under here that
you were worried about? - [Davin] No, I didn't
see anything that was surprising here. I mean when you start
getting into this area as you're pulling the
rods off, you're looking at the rod bearings, not
so much that you're going to reuse 'em by any means,
but you're looking at it to see what kind of wear they're in. They were pretty well wore,
but thankfully we caught this motor to some
extent before it started damaging the crank meaning
you had to really cut it, you know make some big cuts to it. Because as those bearings wear, they start to hammer on the steal
part of the crankshaft. The bearings are the wear item. The crankshaft should not be,
and likewise with rod ends. So you know you want
to maintain that engine before that bearing starts to get so bad. And, there's no grooves
wore or none of that. So we were actually able to, as we'll see, able to get away with just a
polish, you know to things. - So this one spun
unlike our hemi which was locked up to the last piston. You didn't have any problems
getting these pistons out? - Yeah, this one spun
fairly well, but we did have to knock em that last little ridge 'cause they had a ridge of carbon. Not so much wear in the bore, but carbon. So we had to knock these out. (laughing) I love how they jump back in. - [Ben] Obviously not reusing the pistons otherwise they wouldn't be treated so. - [Davin] No, exactly. - [Ben] To a drop onto the floor. - [Davin] And, with
any engine disassembly, make sure that it is very
specific when you put the main caps back in,
likewise with the rods as far as the caps for them. But, the rods have to go
back in the same hole, and the caps have to
go back on the same rod obviously. But, then the caps also
have to go in the same spot in the mains and face the same direction. - Oh okay. - So you want to make sure
before you pull them off that they're marked in
some fashion that you can repeat the assembly. So specifically, I forget on
this one if it had an arrow, but lots of times it'll
have an arrow, or a dot, or something that says
forward more or less. And, then these are actually
cast in you know one, two, three, four. They usually don't label it in the manual. They go on one way. - [Ben] Right, and then
as far as all the rods go, you usually use a tap. - [Davin] Yep. I got a number punch,
cheap little number punch that you use just to tap
'em one through eight. - [Ben] All right, out
goes the crankshaft, out goes the camshaft. And, that's not being reused right? 'Cause we're going to
a more aggressive cam. - That's the first
camshaft, even the hemi, I didn't have to, but
that's the first camshaft I had to physically beat out of the block because, again, the grime on the block, or on the cam was so bad it
did not want to slip through. It would rotate. It would rotate all day long,
but it would not come out of the bearings. - Just those little built
up ridges of things. - Yep, exactly. - All right, so here we go. You've messed with them
trying to pull them out, but they weren't coming, so. - Yep, so just push 'em back in the hole (Ben laughing) and drop 'em out the bottom. - Nice, all right. Down to the block. - Yep, so block is done,
now we're onto the heads. And, just basically I'm
using a hammer there to tap the keepers out of the retainers. They tend to seat themselves anyway. And, you can see obviously
they're equally as grimy and grungy as the rest of the motor. - [Ben] I would say not
quite as messy as the hemi but still pretty grimy. - [Davin] Yep. - [Ben] I love seeing all
the parts on the back, all just like lined up. This sort of thing where
you really get to see what all goes into. - [Davin] Yeah, when you
spread the motor out, it's amazing how much space it takes. It's very gratifying when
you put it back together, and you regain all that space. (laughing) - [Ben] A whole table's worth of parts. - [Davin] Oh man, yes. - [Ben] All right. - [Davin] It was an eight footer. - To Thirlby we go, once again. And, here's what we were talking about. They're scraping the
heck out of this thing before they put it in their parts washer so they don't end up with,
yeah I mean you can see. - Yeah, you can see the pile. - All this down here, just
amazing amounts of gunk comin' off there. I would not want that job. - [Davin] No, Dave can have that. (Ben laughing) - [Ben] Lots of old gaskets to scrape off. - [Davin] Yeah, and we
didn't help him either. We let him take all that out. - Yep. So, there was a question,
and I answered it in the comment. But, what these three big green bins are which the shot happens fast,
and you don't really see what's going on. - Yeah so, the very
first one, you can see, has a huge chimney coming out of it. That's the fire and brimstone area. - That's just what, heating? - Just bake the daylights out of it. - So, you're just baking
it to try and like get everything off? - It's the same principle
as a self cleaning oven. - Okay. - I mean you just heat
the daylights out of it, and that stuff burns off. - Okay. - For the most part, it's all oil, so it burns, you know it
burns off pretty well. It turns to charcoal. So the second one, you go
through and it actually bead blasts the whole assembly. It's almost a shot peen function. And, then the last one is
almost a pure tumble and-- - [Ben] Cool down. - Cool down. Blows air across it and tries to get out all the shot blast and
what's left of the residue. - Yeah, all right. So he pulls it out, and
then the big check is. - Yep, this is the first
go, no-go if you will for the block reuse. He's doing a magna flux
function where you use this magnet and this
powder they spray to it. If there's a crack, it
will collect in the crack and almost like stand up if you will or highlight where the cracks at. - The crack affects the magnetic field. - Exactly, yep. That indicates if you
gotta, and lifter valleys are the first, most prone area for a crack to be at. And, it's not to say
that if you have a crack in the block in this area
that the block is junk. It just means you've got
different work for you. Lots of times they can be repaired. There's a stitching process of overlapping screws, for the most
part, that'll fix those. - Cool. But, we passed that test. No cracks, all good to go. And then? - Onto the boring bar. - So there are some questions
of people were like, I guess maybe they missed this shot. I don't know. But, people were like
why would you hone it without boring it first. And, I mean we did bore it. - Yeah, we bored it
first and then honed it. The only reason you
would hone without a bore is if the diameter of the
hole is such that you can clean it up with a bore or a hone I mean. If you can just clean it up, put new, let's say it's still the
size, and it's still round, you're just literally re-ringing a motor, you can freshen up that
crosshatch with just a pure. - [Ben] For oil retention? - Yeah, for more your
sealing of the rings. So you can put a fresh crosshatch in it and a fresh set of rings,
and clean an engine up that way opposed to if you don't need to. But, as soon as you're out
of size, you have to bore. And, it never makes sense to,
I guess there's maybe some circumstances where it would make sense to bore one hole versus all of them. - And, when you say out
of size, you mean out of circle, or out of just
the size where a piston and a ring in available? - Both. Well first off, you have
to keep a certain clearance between the piston diameter and the wall of the cylinders. So they're never dead on because
your piston's gonna grow. You know you want that hole to be so big, an X amount of clearance in there. But, at the same token
you don't want it too big to where the piston
actual rock in the hole. It will destroy itself. It'll knock the skirts off. And, then you have nothing quite honestly. - [Ben] And, that is done,
you're just measuring it. - [Davin] Yes, yep. So you go through, you make the bores. You check 'em for roundness
as well and taper. Taper's really the biggest wear function. They'll change top to bottom. And typically speaking, pistons are, with exception of having
custom pistons made, you know off the shelf
pistons are typical size of standard, 30 over,
40 over, and 60 over. That's just a very general statement. And, then associated
rings with them as well. - So do you remember
what we bored this to? - This is 30/1000ths over. - Okay. Now, is the order in which
you do all this important? - [Davin] Yeah. - [Ben] When you're
dealing with the block? - [Davin] Yeah, 'cause
you want to make sure, again, you're kind of
going there's two ways you're looking at this. You're looking at that
constant is this block usable? Right, so let's say you had one cylinder or all the cylinders were
so wore that you would have to sleave 'em. There's a point where
it doesn't make sense to sleave all eight cylinders
unless of course there's some huge valley relative to the block, something's rare. - Rare, or the numbers match your chassis, all that sort of stuff. - Yeah, exactly right. But yes, you would bore them first and then deck the surface. Everything's relative
to the crank center line as far as how it's machined. - [Ben] And decking is
simply you're making it flat again, so it creates a good seal with the gasket and the heads? - [Davin] Exactly, yep. - [Ben] All right, onto the hone. And, that's essentially polishing
and putting the crosshatch pattern in. - Yep. That honing process is your final. So you rough cut along the boring bar. It's very repeatable and
tolerance is fantastic. But, this is really your
fly hair that you're working out with the hone, and you're
putting that crosshatch in there to create the
good seal with the rings. - There you go. He's checking it with
the micrometer there. - Yeah, block is all ready. - Onto the heads. Now these heads needed
a decent amount of work. And, part of it was voluntary, I guess, and part of it was necessary. - Well yeah. Yeah, all of the above. So going with a fairly
more aggressive cam, you start to stress the
production, pressed in studs. So from Ford and a lot
of the manufacturers did the same thing, they use what
they call press in studs. So you have that cast
iron boss, they're drilled to a certain size. There's X amount of press
fit between the cast iron and the steal stud. As you start to increase
that lift, it puts more force trying to suck that stud out. And as you change that,
obviously you're not going to be opening up the
valve, and, you're going to be losing performance. Ultimately you're going
to have parts laying in the bottom of the pan. - So we went through and
pulled those studs out. He's got a hydraulic press,
for lack of a better word, that draws them out, and then goes through and drills and taps them. - [Ben] So this is then being tapped, and then those studs will be put in later in the assembly process. - [Davin] Yep. - [Ben] So he flips the
head around, and then what are we seeing here? - So here, he's taking the valves out 'cause we put hardened seats in this. - [Ben] And, the point of
hardened seats is what? Normally are the seats just the cast iron, the same material, or they're actual? - Yeah, in normal, in
this vintage of an engine, these were all designed to
work with lead gasoline. Today's gasoline is all 100% lead free. So it's tetraethyline or
something along that line, but at any rate it was what
was put in the gasoline at the time actually as a lubricant. But, then also it had
properties for temperature. The newer call it lead free gasoline. And, I saw newer, it's only
been around for 50 years. (Ben laughing) It tends to burn really
hot on the exhaust side. So hardened seats take more temperature, and all the temperature
tends to be concentrated all on the exhaust side
opposed to on the intake. - Okay. - So when things you know a big term is yeah I had hardened seats put in it. That typically is being
referred to as the exhaust side. It's not to say that you
don't replace the intake seats because you certainly
can if they're wore out. - [Ben] So both were replaced on this? - [Davin] Yes, they were. - [Ben] They were just
worn, and you figure since we're replacing
'em, you might as well put the hardened seats in. - [Davin] Yeah. - [Ben] And, is there such
a thing as hardened seats for intake, or you only
do it on the exhaust? - [Davin] Well yeah,
for the most part, it's just on the exhaust. - [Ben] 'Cause it's more
of a pure heat function. - [Davin] And, then they
get a you know multi angle valve job to 'em. And, that's for flow and for sealing. - [Ben] Gotcha. - [Davin] And of course,
surface the bottom of 'em, so they match up nice to the head. - So back over to Mike. And, Mike's doing what over
there on that little red press? - So Mike in this little red press, he's putting new rod bolts in. - [Ben] Okay. - [Davin] The majority
of your rod failures are the rod bolts themselves. They stretch, fatigue,
the end cap comes off, and the piston starts
to go all willy nilly with everything else. - Getting slapped around by the crankshaft and everything else. So these rods got new bearings, new bolts? - Yeah, you get new
bushings in the small end, at the piston side, the small end. So he got new bushings there
and cleans them up as well. He also, in this shot
here, he's resurfacing the, call it the width of the rod. So that way, as they-- - [Ben] Where they mate. - [Davin] Yeah, where they go together, you get enough clearance, rod clearance. - [Ben] So because you're
taking material off then, you're basically changing it into an oval. - [Davin] Well, this is on the surfaces. - Right, but if you take
the middle out of a circle, you're turning it, maybe not
oval, but like football shaped almost which brings you to-- - Right, so he cleaned up both surfaces. So he cleaned up, call it
the perpendicular surface to the bolts, and then he also cleaned up the parallel surface to the bolts. So he cleaned up side
clearance and mating surface of the cap and the rod. And, then that certainly
necessitates resizing that big end. - [Ben] And, you're sizing
that, when he sizes that, he knows what bearings are going in there? So then he sizes it to the-- - [Davin] Yeah, he sizes
it back to spec, yeah. - [Ben] And, then the bearings
have both an ID and an OD, so they fit in there,
but also fit to the-- - [Davin] Crankshaft, correct, yeah. - [Ben] Cool. So he's got his little
measuring tool up there. - Yeah, so this is basically
honed just like is being used for the block on itself, same principle. And, then you have a three pronged gauge that he's setting them on to measure it. At the end of the day,
it's really comparator really more than it is anything else. So he sets it up to the nominal size, and then from a comparator function, it's X amount over or X amount under. - Okay. All right, nearing the end. - Up in that upper right,
it's a little heating element. So what you do is, we're using these as a, pistons can be assembled in two ways. They're either press
fit, or they're referred to as pin fit. And, pin fit allows you
to push them on by hand, and then use E clips or
clips to hold the wrist pin relative to the piston. - And, that's what the Volkswagen was with just the little clips. - Yep, the Volkswagen,
the Harley, the hemi. We did those all that way. They call 'em a floating wrist pin. And, then you have press fit where the pin is literally press fit into
the small end of the rod. - [Ben] So you can see
him setting up right here. - [Davin] Yep. So as you warm up that
small end of the rod, the hole gets larger by nature of expansion and contraction,
- Expansion and contraction. - Exactly. And, literally that pin
just slides right in. And, as soon as that cools, it's in there. It would take a press to push it back out. But, you don't press them
in because you always risk a concern of not getting them in squared. It's easier just to
heat 'em up and do this. I mean that's not to say it can't be done. - It seems like it goes a
lot, I mean when I set up the shot it all happened a
lot faster than I thought it was going to, and as
soon as he put it in there, it pushed right in. - Yeah, he uses like a little hand push to just push 'em in. You can see it laying there on the table. - [Ben] Oh yeah, so he's
just using his hands to-- - [Davin] So literally,
he's just taking that rod, setting it in there and going (hums). And, it's as easy as that. And, by the time it gets over
here by the plastic rack, you wouldn't be able to push
it back out with a hammer. - That's crazy. All right, so this is
just quick polish, right? There's nothing really that
needed to be done with the-- - Yeah, Mark went through
and measured everything. Everything was to size or
within the specifications. And, then just did a quick polish on it to take off an roughness and that fashion. - All right, almost back
to the assembly process. - So we got a beautifully clean block. Some people like to paint
after they assemble. I prefer to paint before
we assemble 'cause that's the cleanest that block's gonna be. And to me, as long as I
take my time, I still end up with a good piece. It's kind of like painting
a wall and then putting the trim on. Or, putting the trim on
and taping off the trim to paint the wall. There's two blues in the Ford world. There's a lighter blue
and then the darker blue. And obviously, we went with
the darker blue on this one. - Looks good. - Yeah, it even matches the Travers there, the banner. That's slick. And, we prime 'em. You know we prime 'em
with epoxy primer there to begin with. And, then this happens
to be a single stage instead of a two stage with a clear coat. We opted for a single stage. It's got a lot of gloss to it. It looks really good. It holds up very well. We said before, there's a place for-- - There's a place for rattle cans. - Yeah, selling rattle can,
engine paint, and that. But, even if you had to shoot this outside with some paint, it'll hold
up better in the long run. - Yep, back in the shop. All right, so first step? - [Davin] First step after
everything's cleaned up is start putting in freeze plugs. They fill up the holes
relative to the casting process into the water jacket. And, they do serve a second
purpose as if you happen to have water, the idea
is that those plugs would pop out if it froze. I would not rely on that. I wouldn't start a motor with water in it 'cause I've seen plenty of
'em crack below that water. - [Ben] Still plenty of places for water to get frozen and expanded,
and the bad things. - Yeah, it's amazing
the power of hydraulics. - All right, so it looks like
you're putting something in where the camshaft. - Yep, so here we're putting
in camshaft bearings. They're very specific on
where the hole is at relative to the hole. The hole in the cam
bearing is very specific to the hole in the block. You want to have them line up, otherwise you'd plug your oil feed. So your cam would not get
oil, and that wouldn't work very well. - And, then as quickly as we put it on, we gotta pull it off. - Yeah, we had to take it off. And, the reason for that
is you need to put half in from one side and half
in from the other side. In hindsight, I could've
stuck 'em all in first and then put the freeze plugs
in later, maybe next time. - Maybe next time. Especially with this sort
of thing when we get started with the video shot, once the stuff's in, like you can't go back. - No, exactly. - I mean there's some
stuff like if we had to. - Some stuff, we can take back. - But, when you're hammering stuff in, it's a little different. So you got a couple little
threaded plugs there. - Yeah, they're threaded
plugs in the back, and mainly because they go
directly to the outside world leak path-wise. I put just some Teflon, liquid
Teflon on to seal 'em up real good. And, then on all the freeze plugs and in this cam plug as
well, I always use the Hitac it's called. And, it's just a sealer,
but it's not an RTV sealer. It's more of a form of gasket function. - [Ben] So first part of
the performance upgrade being installed. - [Davin] Yep, first part
is this flat tappet camshaft but on a solid lifter. And, what that allows is the solid lifter is over the hydraulics perform
better in general terms because they're a little more efficient. Because you with hydraulics,
you're relying on oil pressure to keep that lifter solid,
but it also is quieter because you do not have
any mechanical lash or gap. So in a solid lifter
camshaft, you have to set up a gap in there so it has
room for expansion again relative to heat. But, in doing that, you can
get a little more aggressive cam load because you know
exactly where it's gonna be at if you will. - That's crazy to me that things as like when they're in your
hand that are as solid as steal-- - Oh yeah, that it changes. - That it changes. And, that not only that, but
we know that, and then it is engineered-- - To do it. - To do it, and to be
managed in the whole process of to not only work when it's
cold but then also to work when it's heated up. I don't know. That stuff is always cool to me. - So I'm sure everybody
noticed that I used two different kind of lubrication. I have in standard molly-b-dium. I never can say that right,
white grease if you will. And, I use that on usually on all the rod, on all the bearing type functions. But, on the camshaft,
I like to use that red camshaft lube that comes with them. It tends to stick a little better. And, in the camshaft,
if you think about it is hanging out in midair,
and you don't want all that lubricant to drip off of it. - Right. - And, with the molybde-mum,
it's not as sticky. So it does tend to drip off. But of course, when it's
trapped by a bearing, it's not dripping off. It's stuck there. - It's being held in place. - And, it has some economic benefit to it. - [Ben] Every time you
do this for all these, it always confuses me. It's like well you haven't
put the crankshaft in yet. - [Davin] You forgot something. - [Ben] What are you
tightening everything down for? But, walk me through why you do that. - So, one of the key areas, I would say, is the first error of
any assembly, okay, is again we've talked about
the engineering standpoint of why there's clearances. They are important, and they're designed to do certain things. So in this case, you have
your multilayer bearing and steal trapped around it. Well the bearing surface,
I mean it has its function relative to a bearing. But, it doesn't work at
all without lubrication. So if the bearing was, let's
say the exact same size as the steal part that's
going inside of it, it would still gaul up and freeze. It would not do its function. You have to have a thin
layer of oil in there to act as its lubrication. So what I'm doing here
is, and the only way to measure this, the
best way to measure this is to physically know what that size is. So what I'm doing here
is I'm taking the two half shell bearings, trapping them inside the cap and the block just like it's going to be assembled. I am torquing them exactly
the way they're going to be torqued down because that takes any deflection or
anything funny out of it. This is how it will be. And, then I'm going through it and using a comparator again, but
it's set up based on a mic. So there's a value for the
bore, and then I'm comparing that in a plus or minus fashion. - Previous to this, you
see in the background, you were. - [Davin] Yeah, mic-ing
the crankshaft up, right. - [Ben] Gotcha. - [Davin] So right there I
happen to be measuring rods, but I do the rods and the mains, they're the same principle. So you'd get a nominal
value, and what the size is. - Right there, you're on. - So let's just, argument's sake, this isn't the number,
but let's say it's there two inches on the number,
well then when I go when I put the bearing in the caps, and I measure that, I
want to see 2/1000ths. I want to see that hole
to be 2/1000ths larger than the rod as an example. - So you're giving that
2/1000ths there is for the oil to be and to keep it lubricated. - Right. And for a good rule of
thumb, a piece of paper is 3/1000ths. That's pretty sticking thin, but it makes all the world of difference. And, in this motor actually, spec-wise, 'cause I remember I'm always
interested in what the factory specs were or amazed
maybe even sometimes is the clearance for these rods or mains were roughly I think is was .0009. So just a shade under a
thousandth which is really tight, but then up to three and a half. - Oh okay, so you had
all kinds of room to-- - Yeah pretty good room. There's a where you want
to be at you know relative to spec too. I tend depending on what
the motor's being used for, I'll stick to one side versus another. So in a street application,
I tend to stick a little tighter because it's gonna see a lot more mileage, that type of stuff. And, then on a race
motor, you tend to stick a little bit higher, a little looser. It's faster type of thing. - Faster meaning less friction? - Yes, exactly. - Less things getting
in the way of getting that power to your wheels. - Right, yep. - [Ben] All right, so
(blowing raspberry) getting some more goop on there. - Yep, that's more of that molly lube. Then of course, the main cap has a seal because it's external. Up here, that's the only
seal on the crank shaft is on the rear main
seal which is the token, I got a drop in the middle of
my motor on my garage floor where is it from? Main seal, virtually every
time unless of course the valve covers are peeing all over. All right, so now here I'm
doing the same principle as on the main caps. So I take every one of
the piston assemblies, put the bearing in, torque down the cap to the spec, and then
compare 'em in right there. And, the same idea, I'm
looking for that clearance. - [Ben] So that first show where you were on the crankshaft, those measurements, you're doing those both for
the mains and for the rods? - [Davin] Yes, yep. - Now, anything special, again, we talked about the camshaft being more aggressive. Was there anything in regards
to the pistons going in? - Yeah, the JE pistons
were what's considered, I think it was a four
or five CC valve relief. So that technically is
a recess in the piston. So instead of being dead
flat across the top, you have a little extra. - Okay, so you can see. - Yeah, there you can see it. Clearance for the intake
and exhaust valves, but that calculates into the
compression side of things. So you could have, where
the two happens to be on that piston, you could have
actually a dome right there. So that dome, if you remember on the hemi, we had that big dome that
went up into the chamber? You could do the same
thing on these as well. And, that dome could be,
gosh it could be pretty big. And, you could also have
a dish that could be up in the 36 range, 36 CC is
almost a quarter inch deep in there, and that's to
bring that compression down. - So what was the target compression ratio we were going for? - Target compression
ratio was nine and a half. And, I ended up calculation-wise at 9.46. - Close enough, I guess. - So close enough, right. - Does the compression ratio now change what kind of fuel you have to put in it? - That's why I skated
towards the nine and a half. Originally, this motor
would've been like 10.2, 10 and a half, somewhere up in that range. And, the reason, I shouldn't
say that particular motor was not, but the high
performance version would've been in that range. And, the fuel back in that
era had more oomph to it. It had a higher octane rating. And now, it's hard to
get, not hard to get. It's always easy to get '93,
but '87 is certainly more economical. So I targeted in that nine and a half, so it at least gives you
the zone of I can pull up to the gas pump and get
'87 to '93 all the time. So where it likes, it'll
you know be able to get fuel for it without an issue. - [Ben] All right, so
what are you doing here? You've got everything numbered. Is it specific rings
to specific, like why? - Yep, everything's numbered
because, well quite frankly, when you went home that night before. - (laughing)Right. - I stayed up into the
wee hours of the night filing pistons which is an
entertaining as I don't know. It would make watching
grass grow entertaining. - That was not the only instance of things that I went home and you
know put my kids to bed and slept, and you were up until two a.m. doing something extra because otherwise there's really no point in me being there for a shot that would last
all of one or two seconds and would take you four or five hours. - So to get back to it. So basically what filing
the rings means is so you take every ring with the exception of call it the corrugated
ring which is the oil control ring. You really have four rings. You have an upper ring,
a second, you know, a top ring, a bottom ring
in the compression area, and then you have an upper
and lower oil control ring, and then you have the
middle ring, if you will, in that oil control area
that's the corrugated deal. But any rate, so what you do is you take the rings, and you set
'em you know one inch down into the bore that it's
going into, and then use a feeler gauge and you check
how much those end gaps come around. So as an end gap comes
around, and for instance, in this one it's 4/1000ths
for every inch of bore, so 16/1000ths overall. - Okay. - That's what you want that gap to be at. And, the reason for the gap
is again back to the heat scenario. That gap is gonna close up as it warms up. And, you do not want the ends
to hit against each other because then they have to
go this, and then they start to make a whole lot of ugly again. So it's a real fine,
you know when they say an orchestra's very fine tuned? Well, there's an orchestra, I'll tell ya because every engine has
to have that balance, otherwise anything off, and
it's not gonna last very long. That's not to say it won't last. - It's the fine tuning. - Yeah exactly. And of course, rings in general as well, like I mentioned, you have a
top ring and a bottom ring, and you do not want to
get them flip flopped because they may be
different upper and lower. Pretty much all the piston
rings if it's specific to that, they'll have a dimple
that not only which way the ring goes, up or down,
but then also relative to which groove it goes in top or down. - Lots of stuff to keep track of. - Yeah. And, you know these
are a molly ring again. You don't want to over
spread them 'cause you risk cracking 'em. That's why the tool's handy. But, you can put 'em in by
hand, but then you start to get fingertips that
looks worse than mine. - All right, in go the pistons. - [Davin] All right, so it's pure and simple piston assembly. You can see I upgraded on our tool here. So I have a nice little clamp deal. It does work really nice. And of course, oil the
daylights out of everything as you can see. - Yep, and you're, I mean
obviously it's important to put them all in the right places. Are these numbered
differently than other engines we've assembled before? - Ah yeah. (laughing) It's funny you should mention that, Ben. Yes, seemingly every, there
must've been some weird engineering seminar where
they all got together and brainstormed on how they could differently order you know
the firing orders on stuff because everyone has their
own idea it seems like. So if you're very hard
grained in the direction that one company does, when
you go to the next company, you better check it about
12 times because you'll probably get it wrong 11 of those. Hopefully the last time
is the correct way. So yes, for instance in Ford land here, the passenger side front is number one, and then they labeled
them, and it's specifically to the firing order, so
you have one, two, three, four. - [Ben] All on one side? - [Davin] Down the passenger side, and then you have five, six, seven, eight on the driver's side. - [Ben] From the front to the back. - Unlike another favorite
bow tie brand that has them the opposite, but even different then, number one is on the diver's
side front, and it alternates odd to even. So all the evens are on
the passenger's side, all the odds are on the other side. - So they can get you in a lot of trouble treating a Ford like a Chevy. - Yeah, there's two
places it would bite you. First off, you know
pistons have an orientation they have to be in because
you want the intake relief to match the intake valve
as opposed to the other way which wouldn't work very well. And, then, again, you
want to have those rods in the right order, in the right space, otherwise you could get things messed up. And of course, then when you
go to put the plug wears on, that's a whole 'nother field. Learning experiences. So here, we're ready for the timing gear. So timing gear slides on, I'll
say like all the rest of 'em. But, what's different than,
the hemi would've had it, but we didn't use it. We opted for some different
ways of fueling it. But, that big silver,
it looks like a pulley quite honestly, that's the
eccentric for the push rod on the fuel pump. Or, I should say the arm on the fuel pump. Because your arm sticks
in there a good six inches it seems like. And, then as that
rotates, of course it goes basically up and down
on the rod and gives you your pumping function. And again. - More goop. And, there's a swinger on
there for the lower gear. That's what that last
little piece is right here. It's an oil slinger, so it picks up oil in the bottom of the
pan, and it slings it up on the chain. - That's cool. - And, now you have a
fairly large aluminum cover. That's your timing cover. It's a timing cover, water
pump, fuel pump, pan, oil pan mount. I guess we're gonna use
all the functions in there. - [Ben] All in one. - And of course, the crank seal too. Yeah, crank seal went in there. That was already installed. And, then you have the
harmonic balancer that has the numbers on here. Those are beautiful from
an after market standpoint. I'd highly recommend. And, one of the reasons
to actually change your, we didn't use the stock one,
for one particular reason, and that is harmonic
balancers on a stock function always have there's a
steal band and a steal hub, and they're separated by a rubber band that's inside of it. It's a bonding agent
and a rubber dampener. And, those'll crack, and then they'll lose their tension, and that outer
band will start to slip. It causes you two problems. One is, as it turns or
slips, your timing mark moves on ya, so now the timing
gets to be different. But, the worst part is
if they start to rattle inside themselves and then
shake the engine apart 'cause you can get out of balance there. - It's not harmonic anymore. - It's not harmonic, or harmonica. - Yeah. Hey, who's that guy?
- Hey, look at that. Yeah, and then you have
your, this motor is intended for all kinds of accessories. It'll have an alternator,
no power steering, (laughing) no air conditioning, pure. All you need is an alternator
on this, that's it. That's all any engine ever needs is that. - So it doesn't have to power
all that superfluous stuff. - No, that's right. - Who needs power steering
and air conditioning? - If you want all that,
take the bus I guess. (laughing) Here's the oil pump going on. Obviously, we'll put the timing cover on, but sometimes we'll have
the pump on already. In this case, we've waited. But because of that, you
can see the timing cover completes the pan route on this engine. - Okay. Oh yeah, I can see that right here. - The bolt side of it as
much as the, yeah exactly. So you have you know your oil
pump, the actual gear part of it is right up here. And, then your pickup tube here that goes into the oil pan. That's the big sump section of it. - [Ben] All right, getting
ready for the gasket here. And, that's just what clear silicone? - [Davin] Yeah, I'm using
clear silicone here. You could use black,
orange, whatever color you want to use. That's independent. What I like about the clear silicone is when it oozes out the
sides, you don't see it. So it looks clean and
crisp with that cork gasket hanging out there. - So there were several
comments of why on earth would you put a cork gasket in there? - Oh yes. Well, and there's always
also the why on earth are you putting silicone on a cork gasket? It's already a sealer. Well, it is, but it's not in the corners 'cause there's a gap. And yes, is cork gasket my favorite? No, it's not. A one piece rubber is great
if they're a precision gasket. Some of 'em are, some of 'em aren't. And, then the other side of it is you know there's some of these
that are like a multilayer kind of a rubber cork mixture. Those are probably the best
because at the end of the day, the cork gaskets, they will
dry out, and they will crack, and they will leak. I mean that's what happens with cork. Unfortunately that was in
the kit that we bought. It is what it is. It'll be fine for many, many years. - And, sometimes it's just an
availability issue too, right? - Exactly, yes. - If someone is actually making one. - Yeah, there's some situations
where they're not made for it. For this one, yes, we
could've got a cork gasket, or a rubberized gasket. And, these have rubber
to some extent, just not to that extent. What's really tough to find
is the self turning bolts 'cause you have self tapping
you can buy them all day long. But, finding these self
turning ones is exceptional. - If we could only find that
for the rest of the engine, then we wouldn't even have-- - [Davin] We'd just sit and
grab coffee all the time. - [Ben] We wouldn't even need you anymore. - [Davin] Oh no, you gotta
have somebody to drink the coffee. And, I'll say that I
took these original bolts and actually plated them. - [Ben] Oh, that's cool. So all these shiny it
looks like brand new bolts, are the original bolts? - Yeah, the original
bolts at least that were on the engine when we tore it apart. There's always argument maybe that they're not the right bolts, but that's
a whole 'nother discussion. - They look right to me. - But no, so, I took
these, I cleaned 'em up in an ultrasonic cleaner,
got 'em very nice and clean from that
aspect, and then put 'em in like a tumbler, and little
stainless rods in there and it tumbles around and polishes 'em. And, then there's a three,
call it a three part, three step process for zinc plating. And, if I haven't had access to it thanks to a very good friend of mine in his restoration shop,
and we did those ones late evening again, but
there's also if you had, where you wanted to do all
these yourself as well, across the country there's
plenty of plating companies. Find one on the web, you know locally. And, they would charge
you probably 50 bucks for that lot. They're all gonna be the
same, and so on and so forth. Take 'em in, and they'll go
through the process for you. Which after I spent the
four hours doing it, 50 bucks would've been nice. I would spend that. All right, so here the heads are. One thing to kind of scroll back, unfortunately you're not
gonna be able to see it. Again, another one of
those late night clean ups that my mind says I always have to do is I did a little
polishing or porting work on the, call it the
backside of the valves. So in the port fashion,
so you have your valves that go into the, get covered up, but when you have your seats
in there like we're showing there's always a ridge in
there because you're machining into the casting, then
your seat is typically smaller than that hole or
idea of a counter bore. So I just take a die
grinder and go inside there and clean that up just to smooth it out. I don't get crazy with the porting, but it helps the flow
about 30% really easily. - Okay, so that's just a
simple performance thing you're taking off any hard ridges. - Exactly. - And, that's just to increase, and do you do that both
exhaust and intake? - Yes. - Okay. So you're just smoothing
the airflow in and out? - Exactly. - I dig your little stand here. - You like those pegs? Yeah those work nice. It gets 'em up off the
ground and around the bench and not flip flopping 'em so much. And, of course you can
access and put the valves right here. - When I think of the Chevy small block, and then also the hemi-- The hemi would've been really nice. - Yeah. Yeah the hemi, it was all you could do for one person to lift one of those heads. - Yeah, Santa was very
good to us this year, a couple extra toys. So back before we put on all these rings, and we can show just
like the last two here. So here you have obviously
these are all on, but you have the valve is
hanging up out of here, and there's a seal right here. - That's all these guys down here. - Yeah, right down here,
these are the seals by themselves. Of course, the valves tips up here. But, you see there's like some shims, or exactly shims, but
so what happens here. So now in the order of assembly,
right, keep going back. - [Ben] Back? - [Davin] There is it. - [Ben] I mean there's
five seconds in between. Oh you're measuring the-- - [Davin] Right here. - [Ben] We can probably
find it in another shot. There you go. - [Davin] There we are. All right so what my point is here is the springs need to be
set at a certain height. They have an operating height. These were at one inch, 750
if I remember correctly. So what you end up having to do is, so you have your retainer,
and you have your spring obviously in the assembled fashioned. And, at the seat height, or
where they're at right now, or the valve is closed, you
have a specific distance from there to there, if
you will, that compressed height of the spring. The unit here is just a
micrometer that basically opens, gets longer, but it has
a measuring device on it. So you can see what the number is. So what you do is you keep
a keeper and a retainer and you assemble it 100%
like you would over here, but instead of using the
spring you use that gauge. You just tighten it up, and
you measure what that gauge is and then you shim it accordingly. You want to be, you know if it calls out you know one inch, 750, you
want to be plus or minus 5/1000ths is what I shoot for. Obviously, nominal's the
best, but if you happen to be a little bit over or a
little bit under, it's fine. - So you're just using
your calipers over here. - Yeah, calipers to make sure my shims are the sizes they need to be. - [Ben] Gotcha. - [Davin] Shims, I got
them all through Thirlby's. They're readily available
through a machine shop function. - There's a good shot of you
adjusting the height there. Cool. - And again, in all these type of deal, you can slap 'em all together. You know you can take any motor
and just slap 'em together. That's not a problem. But, that blue printing
function that you hear a lot of, that's what this is. It's just measuring it and
putting it all the same. Or, you know whatever
the clearance needs to be or in this case, the heights. But, you put 'em all the same
'cause then every cylinder is gonna perform evenly,
or at least a better chance to perform evenly. All right, so there's
the head gasket going on because it's such a shiny surface and the head gasket really
doesn't change color very much 'cause there was a
question of whether we put head gasket on it? Yes, we did. - [Ben] Yes, a head gasket goes on. - [Davin] One thing, on this engine, and most of 'em are, but
this one specifically, the head gaskets, you can't flip 'em over 'cause they're not
symmetric in that fashion. - Okay, so left has to go on the left, right has to go on right. - Well it has to be up. - Oh okay. - They're symmetric right to left. They're not symmetric up
and down if that makes sense on the head gasket. - Gotcha. And, then what's your lower
chart you're looking at there? Is that an order for-- - [Davin] Yeah so, I'll
give a dollar to anybody who remembers or still has theirs. So way back when, probably in the '80s. God, that doesn't seem that long ago, but roughly in the '80s in my
subscription in high school, I got this in the mail. Every year, you would
get something special in a plastic wrapper
from Hot Rod magazine. And, that is what came in. And, it's a beautiful little diagram of, I'll say most of the
engines, and it gives you just general torque specs, mainly your, you know this chart here
is the torque sequence which is very needed. You know you want to
torque everything down in a sequence that's involved. - Take that Google. - Oh yeah, exactly right. (Ben laughing) And, that chart has never failed me. It's the best. - That's awesome. It's fun having little stuff like that especially when it hearkens
back to your like early days of being a car guy. - It's at least 20 years old. - All right, so here
finally are the threaded. - Yep, so here's the threaded studs. These went into the water jacket. So that's why we used Teflon on 'em, again, to seal it up, make
sure it doesn't have any leak. You don't want to leak
up through the threads. - And, double nutting
just 'cause they're-- - Yeah, double nutting them,
and you're not torquing the daylights out of 'em
'cause you're not trying to pull the thread out
'cause you are bottoming out. You could easily, I'll say
easily, pull the thread up. But, you want 'em hand tight, but I use the double nut and a wrench 'cause I get a better feel for hand tight. - [Ben] And, onto the next one. Hey look, there's another head gasket. - [Davin] Yep, another head gasket on. - [Ben] And, the torque
sequence, and more studs. - A little more wipe down. Onto the distributor. - There were several people
being like why on earth would you put the old distributor in there when you can just by a
knew one or do some type of electric, you know computerized
something or whatever? - Exactly. With this particular engine,
we could've done multitudes. There's a lot of other solutions. So yes, you could've done
an electronic upgrade. We stuck with the original points on this. We could've also done a
dual point distributor. Which one of the
performance options for Ford was a dual points. I look at it as kind of
dual trouble as well, but that's maybe another discussion. In myself as a car guy,
I see my responsibility as to use the parts
already produced if I can. If they're not junk, use 'em. And, these are not junk. So yes, I took the extra time. Is it economically
feasible, you know one way or the other? Well, you can always argue that. I mean it depends what your time is worth. - [Ben] In our case, it's cool to see it get cleaned up and be used again. - Quite frankly, most people
don't see how easy it is. I think I had an hour
into cleaning that up. - And, what we'll see
later is we took this time to do a how-to video of how
to rebuild your distributor. So we double-dipped a
little bit on our content. And yeah, it's one less
piece of junk that's going to the junkyard if you're
that type of person that cares about that sort of thing. - Well if you're a hot
rodder, you already are 'cause you're already not
buying a brand new car. (Ben laughing) In general, pull it
apart, clean it all up, you know inspect everything, and grease, and lube it, or lube it
and put it back together. So here, we're putting
the solid lifters back in or in. And again, lubing them up and making sure they move freely in the bore and all that. And, then push rods. (Ben mimicking engine sounds) - [Ben] More lube. (laughing) We were accused of A
not using solid lifters which we did, and also
not using rolling rockers. - Well there's two
versions of roller rockers. There's one with tips
which is what we're using, and then there's full rollers. And, a full roller instead of
having the kind of half moon washer at the bottom of the fulcrum piece, that would actually be a
needle bearing in a roller. - Oh okay. - So yes, we took some compromise. We didn't go to the full
blown, full in roller rocker. We used just a roller tip. - So the point where it
actually rocks is a bearing. - Yeah, so yes. Here's your roller tip,
and then this could be a roller going across
that, and then you need a bearing going across. We have, like it would be on a stock, and it would be just a fulcrum style. - [Ben] Now is that something
that was available then? - No. It would've been available
on the aftermarket, but it was not the stock function. In fact, stock push rods, or stock rockers on the Cobras would've
been just the standard or forged you know rocker. - And, so that was part of
this build is we wanted to do more of a period appropriate deal. - As best as yeah. I mean there's areas that make sense, and there's areas it didn't. One of the things that you do get into, and there would've been room. We could've done full roller across here. There would've been enough space. But, those do get into some issues especially when you're trying
to put valve covers on 'em. You might get too tall for valve covers. Granted, the Holman Moody valve
covers had plenty of room. - [Ben] So then this
shot, while it appears as though there's not a lot going on, you're obviously rotating
it 'cause you see the rockers going. But, what are you doing here? - And, you would do this if it was hydraulic or not, the
setting is different. So what I'm doing here is
I'm going through and setting the lash. And again, if it was a
hydraulic can, you would set the lash, but you'd take it to zero lash, and then turn it you know a
quarter to half a turn more to push the plunger out. On a solid lifter, you bring
it to, let's say you bring it to zero, but then you back it off and using a feeler gauge
between the roller tip on the rocker and the
top of the valve stem, and you set that clearance. And, this cam shaft called for 22/1,000ths on intake and exhaust. That's not always the case. It can vary anywhere from 14 to 24. I've seen quite a few different ones. It depends what the
camshaft manufacturer wants. In fact, if you backup right here. So right here, looking at
it today, I see one thing that we did wrong on this whole build at this point in time. And, that's right, in fact I'm
pointing to it right there. (laughing) So the learning experience
is when you're assembling certain engines and you buy
the kit of freeze plugs, and when you have all the holes filled in this particular brand
that has a bow tie on it. You typically have extra plugs. And, I have no idea why,
but it's a generic kit that covers a multitude
of configurations, right? So when I had an extra
plug sitting on the table and putting all the
freeze plugs in the oil gallery plugs, it was of no alarm to me that I had an extra one, right? Completely blew it off
because we did not pull all the plugs out. - Right, you didn't have it in your mind of I pulled this out,
something needs to go back in. - Exactly. And, it was so gooped
that when you look back at the engine block
with all the goop in it from years of abuse, you
cannot see clearly, at least, that there is a plug
that goes right there. Now, what happens with
that plug, the function of that plug is to seal
off that passage way of the oil feed from the right to left standpoint of the lifters. So you get all kinds
of oil going down this because your oil pump
remember is up in here. So it fills all the way down this, right? But, it doesn't create enough
pressure to push that oil up the push rods and then
onto the rocker arms, and the springs and so on and so forth. Where you see that at is
if that plugs not there, when you're priming it
you don't get excessive amount of pressure like 60 or 80. You get, what'd we have 20, 25? - Yeah, 20-ish, yeah. - So at that point it was like-- - Something's wrong. - Uh-oh. (laughing) So what is not shown 'cause we clearly put the intake manifold on. - Yep, ready. - And, boom. - Yep, one of our commentors caught it. It's like oh look, it's there. Congrats to you, I
forget what your name is, but yes you caught it. We forgot to put that plug in. - But, we caught it
immediately when it was on the test stand, and we were priming it. So we started priming
it, and we're like uh we're missing something. - All right, so last
little bits of stuff here. - Yeah, so we put in a
Fram Ultra Guard filter which meets and exceeds
everyone of the OEM specs. So I know everybody has
their brand preference. I have my brand preference
on everything as well. This may or may not be
my brand preference. But, the point is it's
a perfectly good filter. We had some concerns, as well as we had concerns with all the parts
and pieces that we use. And, I get it. That's cool, and that's
the beauty about this is everybody had their preferences. - That is a huge fuel pump. - Yes. They had extra time to
design this fuel pump because they put a fuel
filter in the bottom of it which is a fantastic idea. As opposed to having it
along the line somewhere, you take it really from
you know a couple added leak paths to only one
'cause you can't lose. You only have one spot that's sealing. And, of course it had that real long arm that goes up in there. So you eliminate that a camed piece eliminates a push rod which
is a potential failure point. - [Ben] Distributor. - Yeah, dropped the distributor in. Of course, setting that
in there making sure you know you want to rough set the rotor to be at number one, firing number one. And of course fully engaged
with your oil pump push rod. This one has a hex. You have two mating hexes
that have to come together, otherwise it won't drop
all the way down there which is simple enough
to take, it happens to be a 5/16ths hex, a long
extension, just rotate it a little bit till it drops straight down. And, there we are, look at that. Those are some beautiful
valve covers by the way. - They do look good. - And, putting clear coat on the intake, and all the aluminum bits,
keep them nice and clean as well. - [Ben] Oil. - [Davin] Have some GT
performance racing oil from Pennzoil, and also we
added extra cam break in lube. - [Ben] Per the-- - [Davin] Per the cam
manufacturer as well. And, I don't remember if we showed or not. Again, we primed it. That's when we caught
that it needed to be-- - Oh yeah, I think you showed it. I think it was in here somewhere. Yep, there it is.
- There we go. Yep, so there we're priming it. - And, over here the engine
stand, I was giving you the oil pressure. And, that's when we were like oh, oh yeah. - So we finished off the
shot, and there's a break in the day. - In between this shot and this shot, Davin pulled the intake manifold off. - We pulled the old switcheroo
and put the plug in. - Movie magic. - Yes. - [Ben] All right plugs. - Put in plugs, of course the seal there. And, then we hooked up
some mufflers on this one instead of wide open headers. I thought that was a good idea. - [Ben] It still sounded great. - Yeah, it does. And, these are, (coughing) excuse me, call it a factory tri Y header. They're after market built. They're not originals. They're not the cast iron version, but they are a tubular version. - [Ben] All right, wires, air cleaner, ready to rumble. Fuel. - [Davin] Yep, put some fuel. - Now, did you end up
going with a higher octane? - Yeah, I put in '93 octane to start with. And, then that way it's always a safe bet. Once it's in the car,
and you're putting it under load, and all that
because it's difficult to catch spark knock, if you
will, when you're doing it with no load on it. It'll spark knock under
load but not free wheeling. (engine revving) - Oh sounded good. - So that's the first
motor we've had on there that doesn't have solid mounts. And, I was amazed at how
much it rocked on that stand. It was fantastic. (Ben burbling) (laughing) - Yeah, you can see the
rubber mounts right there.- - Yeah, the stock mounts on it. - So there's it. You got another one going. Nice work. That was awesome. It looks good. It sounds good. - It does. - Lots of folks helped us out,
appreciate that as always. - Yes, the quality of
the parts are amazing you know today. So we're at five more cubes than that 289 originally was, thereabouts. And, we're at 20% to 25% more horse. 20 I guess it would be. Based on the parts that I
put in it for another build, that would be at about 310 horse, and at pretty low, I'll say
low, but it's about 4,500 RPM peak as far as that 310 is concerned. And, then it carries through nice. So that dyno sheet was pretty. There's no reason to
think that this would be any different. I can't wait to slide it into a car which who knows what that might be and take it for a roast. That'd be fun. - That would be. All right, well congrats
on another successful build and another couple months here, we'll have another one for you guys. - And again, thank you for
all the amazing editing because you know-- - I can take credit for all the shooting. Thanks to Sandin who edited this, another one of our video
guys here at Hagerty. Did an awesome job as usual. But yeah, if you guys have
any other questions about it, feel free to leave those in the comments. And as always, like, subscribe,
share, spread the word, and we'll see you next time. - That's right. Take care. - See, yeah. (engine revving)
