How To Sharpen Your Own Drill Bits - SAVE MONEY

hi i'm rob cos and welcome to my shop today on our video i'm going to show you how to sharpen your own drill bits now we do a lot of drilling in here particularly on manufacturing of our saws and we use carbide drill bits if i had to replace them every time they were dull it would cost us a fortune so learning how to sharpen is important for us and for you stay with us i'm rob cosman and welcome to my shop we make it our job to help take your woodworking to the next level if you're new and you haven't subscribed please do so hit the notification bell so you'll receive alerts when we release a new video and anytime we use a special tool we'll always leave a description down below all right let's get to work a couple of tools you're going to want in order to do this i really enjoy having these magnifiers i just find that the older you get harder it is to see and you want some magnification if you can see it you can do it you want a bench grinder and in particular i think this is the best wheel to get this is called a cbn wheel it's a 80 grit and the advantages are two and as it pertains to drill sharpening drill bits number one it cuts really fast so that means since you're doing this freehand and i'm going to show you both methods doing it freehand and also using a little machine i have if you're doing it freehand you've got to hold that angle the faster this cuts the less time you have to hold the angle the better chance you're gonna have success and number two and this one's really important cuts very cool doesn't it doesn't heat up like a regular wheel does so that means you may be able to do the whole thing without ever having to move to go cool off the bit every time you've got to go dip that bit to cool it down and come back you're trying to find that same angle again so if you can stay and work on that one angle your chances of success are going to be much higher all right let's talk a little bit about the geometry of the bit and you can google all the angles i'm going to suggest that for drilling wood we can keep it really simple so there's a few things that are important number one you have to bring these two cutting edges to a point if you don't when you're starting your drill it's going to wander on you so these need to be sloped and it's not nearly as critical in wood as it might be in metal number two the surface behind the cutting lip must be lower otherwise there has to be a negative angle behind that cutting lip or it will not cut if it engages this before the cutting you're not going anywhere and number three you want to have the center or the point in the center so as you eyeball it this edge and this edge need to be on the same plane and you can do that by eye and i forgot to mention the grinder and it's really not that important in terms of the speed they typically come either 1725 rpm or 30 30 what is it 34.50 i could care less dude you have to turn it on okay so i'm what i'm going to do is i'm going to match up the existing angle that was on you know you can see this has kind of been butchered so we're going to have to restore this i'm going to match up the angle that was already on there so i need to get this surface parallel to the face of the wheel and i need to have it in such a way that i'm going to provide that negative slope on the back side but what i'm going to do once i get that lined up is i'm going to do i'm going to approach the wheel with this cutting lip level and then i'm going to go in and roll like this so that i'm cutting the back side we'll do it and then we'll talk about it i don't stay in any one spot for any length of time so i'm always moving now i'm working this one side until i get what appears to be a nice clean refined edge now that this drill bit is really well actually it's just some stuff that's stuck on there that's good i thought it was actually beat up okay so if i look on the back side it's sloping down so that means my cutting lip is going to engage first so that's okay now what i want to do is match that same slope on the other side so i'll get in here without touching line it up then just rotate it and now do the same thing engage and then roll i think this was used to cut aluminum last and that's what's stuck on there okay now what we've got to do is with again up against the background that allows me to see i'm going to compare this spot with this spot and i can already tell that this one is higher so it's not going to cut evenly so i've got to go in and remove some more material get the cuttings edge parallel to the stone the cutting face of the stone okay make sure that you've got negative slope on the back side of both now when i look at that check both sides i this is high nice thing about this drill bits are relatively inexpensive so if it takes you some practice and you ruin a few bits you're not going to break the bank not quite i'm going back and forth because i'm i haven't quite got those two surfaces ah that might be it there okay again check the back to make sure it's sloping i'm just gonna see if i can pick off that aluminum that's stuck on there all right we're gonna put this in the drill try it out in a piece of wood and see how it works okay let's try this out i got a piece of cherry now i prefer brad point bits for wood but they're a little harder to sharpen and these are readily available but you still get a decent hole now there's a problem with drill bits it's inherent in the design and that is that if you look carefully there's an area where there's no cutting going on it's the reason why in metal you always drill a pilot hole that's approximately that width in wood i'll usually just go in and use a punch or an awl to put a little hole in there to start it so it won't walk on me but i'm going to show you this sharpening device called a drill doctor how that can actually help eliminate that problem now i bought this used so never didn't come with a manual but you can go online and see directions on how to use it i've had to modify it a little bit in order to get the results i want but it's a if i was going to buy one i i would recommend this i think it's a good machine doing them by hand is fast and you get to the point where you can do it then you don't have to bother with the setup time of this but let me show you how it works so this is the chuck that holds it so you're going to put the drill in there and you don't want it to be tight just yet just snug enough so it doesn't fall out now this slot or this uh notch pardon me tab they say put it in the 118 but i'm actually going to come back two notches and before i do that there's a device right here that moves that bolt out and that determines how much you're going to cut off well i'm going to put it all the way in and these jaws are important as well but let me put this in place first so instead of in the 118 notch i'm going to come back to that's actually only one now when you up here you're going to turn that drill bit until those little jaws catch on either side of the flute make sure the drill is all the way in and then you want to tighten up that chuck and you gotta tighten it up firmly now on this side you have a cbn cutter that just spins and that's how the bits get sharpened but the way this fits in there in this orifice is this rim which is not round rides on this metal dowel so you have to be pushing this forward as you go and you spin this and depending on the diameter of the bit you'll have to spin it more times than if you're doing a small one and you just keep doing it until you can tell that it's taking off a very small amount and then you're essentially finished and i always because you're spinning it like this i make my break point at the highest spot and you'll hear it because it'll disengage and then you start another revolution so it's a little bit noisy don't go too fast okay that's enough now if you look closely at this bit you'll still see that you have a fairly wide spot where the bit's not going to do any cutting but this machine allows you to go in and actually reduce that and i'll show you how and this is where the my experience varied a little bit from the directions so i'm going to come in here i'm going to put this back in the chuck they say you can go right from there to doing it but i find you can't so i'm going to go back in the same spot i was meaning that notch is going to be that tab is going to be two notches this side of the 118 but you'll notice that the bit shorter now because of what i took off so i've got to loosen the chuck move that forward let those little jaws grab hold of the either side of the flute or either flute now you're going to go in here and these little white notches line up with this notch these two tabs will they'll find themselves there's a little spot for them to go but that'll automatically get in there [Applause] [Music] [Applause] flip it over and do the other side [Applause] it doesn't do very much but if you look real closely it's gone in and it files a little spot on either flute and what that does is reduces that center spot you see it's much smaller now than what it was so that's going to do less walking when you start first start your cut so if you don't want to learn to do this by hand get one of these and i think you'll be uh you'll be satisfied with it but like i said you have to play around a little bit and one last thing i want to show you about that cbn wheel we use as i mentioned when carbide drill our saws we have to drill through steel blade now this one's been broken but i want to show you how fast when i first started this i bought a special carbide grinding wheel it's green but it took a long time this cbn wheel just flies through this carbide same way that it does a regular steel so on something that bad which and that's the disadvantage of carbide it's so hard it doesn't dull it just breaks so i'm going to go in there i'm gonna flatten that off and i would do this if your if your drill bit is really butchered you may as well just may as well just go back to starting with it squared off on the end now i still i'm i'm missing a whole lip right there and i'm gonna have to go down a little bit farther if you were trying to do this on that green wheel you'd be here for a while this stuff just eats it and i can i'm still holding on to it so it's it doesn't get as hot as you would expect all right see what we can do with that now i'm gonna just find my angle and i do this just by eye do that little bit of rolling i'm at about the halfway point so i'm going to spin it around to the other side remember as you develop that little cutting lip you want that lip to be level when you engage the wheel [Music] now this side is low okay now if you look at real closely i really don't have a negative angle on that back side so i've got to come in and what i have to do is i have to lower the back side of the drill so i'm getting more [Music] slope [Music] okay i've got i've got a negative angle on the back side and if i look really carefully it looks like the two points on either side of the drill bit are at the same height so this should work and i just saved myself a 20 drill bit uh if you like my work if you like my style of teaching click on any one of these videos to help take your woodworking to the next level and i've always said better tools make it a whole lot easier if you click on the icon with the plane and the chisel it'll take you to our website introduce you all of our tools and also talk to you about our online and in-person workshops good luck in your woodwork

Channel: RobCosman.com

Views: 49,081

Rating: 4.949367 out of 5

Keywords: how to sharpen your own drill bits, sharpen your own drill bits, how to sharpen drill bits, how to sharpen drill bits by hand, how to sharpen drill bits on a bench grinder, how to sharpen drill bits with a grinder, how to sharpen drill bits with drill doctor, drill bits, sharpening drill bits, drill bit jig, drill bit sharpener, drill bit sharpening by hand, drill bit sharpening jig, drill bit sharpening machine, rob cosman, woodworking

Id: vXrYfPzepPg

Length: 14min 54sec (894 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 25 2020