How To Plumb a Bathroom With One Vent! Two Sinks, Toilet, and Tub/shower!

all right so out of the end of this three inch pipe here we're going to be running to the toilet but we branch off with a three by two y and then we're gonna be installing this it's kind of a turnaround but the reason we put this on here and so that we can get within five feet to that shower so that we have within a five foot trap arm because that's the maximum trap hey guys we're out here at a remodel where we're going to be adding a bathroom to an existing house and today we're going to be piping a bathroom group using only one vent instead of a vent per fixture and we're going to be doing that using upc plumbing code so we're in the master bathroom here and there was no plumbing previously in this room so what we're having to do is tie in in this mechanical room behind me and there's a spot where there's a four inch stack that we can tie into for the drain and then of course we'll have to find a way to get a vent up to the attic and tie into the existing venting i'm cutting this piece out so that i can put the lion to tie into the bathroom so this will be placed in there right where you see the saw sitting right now so you want to keep this nice and clean no sand in there anything that would cause that seal on the rubber coupling to not work so i did get that y in um nobody flushed so that's good [Music] i gotta bend these copper lines that are in our way off just a little more i got to carefully do that so that our drain can get right underneath of that so the next part now is we're going to run our main line over we want to maintain that quarter inch per foot so that comes out to a quarter bubble on a torpedo level so we'll run this main line over to the bathroom group where we're going to have more wides and we'll explain more on that so if you have a toilet going into a pvc line you know that you have to have at least a three inch pvc pipe and you can do up to according to upc in minnesota we can do up to three toilets on a horizontal branch on a three inch pipe before you have to go up to the next size with which is four inch pvc the next thing is is we got to get the section into this 90 so let's keep getting this main piped in towards the bathroom group so this is the first y for our bathroom group so this branch is going to go to the shower and then it's going to y again and catch the lav behind me and then this will continue on to the toilet so this is going to be the first y of the horizontal bathroom group so you'll notice when i'm putting in a y like this i'm putting my level on the end of the pipe to make sure that the next branch is also coming in at a quarter inch per foot so not only the pipe graded but the the branch has to start grading so that the branch going into there will also be a quarter inch per foot all right so out of the end of this three inch pipe here we're gonna be running to the toilet but we've branched off with a three by two y and then we're gonna be installing this it's kind of a turnaround but the reason we put this on here is so that we can get within five feet to that shower so that we have within a five foot trap arm because that's the maximum trap armor so we're gonna we added more fitting so that we turn around and head back for the lab we'll be backtracking a little bit and since we did those turns and because we're going to have two sinks with a fixture across it's cold we will be putting a clean out on there so that if that ever had blockage it could be cleaned out so this is the fitting we're going to use to offset this toilet riser 18 inches off the wall and then our distance off the back wall which is this wall will be 13. i like to go 13 and just to leave more room behind the toilet in case anyone ever decides to do any kind of board or any type of detail behind the toilet so i'm going to put these fittings together and line them up and try to get as close as i can but if you were 12 and 7 8 or 13 and an eighth off the back wall it's not worth stressing over it's that's within the margin of error so i've got the first piece cut here and we are still playing around a little bit i'll um before i glue it i'm going to dry fit this one into place but you want to make sure you get these cuts as square as possible otherwise they'll end up being a different length than what you intended i'm going to dry fit this section together and put it in place to make sure that it's landing where i want it of course it helps actually if you don't prime it you notice i primed it but should be close enough we can make it work so when you measure in between two fittings for the piece of pipe you want to go end to end and then add three inches in this case so whatever the two hubs are combined you'll want to add that together all right so i pre-built this section and made some marks with sharpie so you'll see i've got some marks here given it's a little bit off of here but then i have a mark here that'll line up with the last fitting joint so i'm going to pre-build this whole section and then quickly install it so that if anything needs to move a little bit if my marks were a hair off then i still have room so you gotta i have some uh i have some tolerance if if stuff's not exactly where i want it but you gotta move quick to do it that way otherwise it sets up and then it's locked in right wherever it was left it doesn't hurt to just double check that grade so put your level back on that pipe and make sure the pieces of pipe you've put in previously didn't move or anything because sometimes that can happen with if you didn't have a good bed underneath it's easy for something to drop down and you might not even realize that you have a section back rated you don't want to have any sections of pipe back rated so always double check so i'm pretty happy with where the marks ended up i was able to just go in at an angle and then spin this angle piece down with the 90 on it and we're exactly level and where we want to be and there's grade on each section of pipe all the way to the y so what i'm going to do now is put in the riser pipe that'll stick above the concrete for now and then we'll back fill this in just to lock it in because if you don't lock it in stuff will be moving on you when you're starting to pipe the branch and we don't want that we want everything locked in so it can't move and everything will be more precisely plumbed in so here this is one of the shorter riser pipes i've done but this will this will come out of this 90 and then our toilet flange later we'll glue inside of this four inch pipe so we're going to glue this in and then the concrete will finish around it and then we'll cut it at the concrete height and the flange will glue inside of the pipe so here we're setting this y but we have to make sure that beyond the y to where we're going to the tub that we're within five feet this is a two inch drain for a tub shower it could be an inch and a half but i like to stay with two inch just because of hair can clog the drain so what we're going to do here is set this wide so that we are no more than five feet long here it's it's gonna be almost exactly five feet but that's no problem so what i'm gonna do is cut this at five feet since it's so close and then excavate a little more sand out of here so we can make it work at our maximum trap arm length the trap arm is this section all the way over to the shower so to get that at the maximum five feet we have to make this y come this way so then this is the piece that will go in between there and then this section off the branch is the wet vented section that is heading over towards the sink so the sink will dump into the wet vented section once again you can see here i'm checking my grade making sure we've got enough we are good to go there and then it's not a bad idea until the glue is set up to just get some sand packed right under there you can see we've got really nice material here why not use it make sure once again we're locked in all right so right now i'm running this last section and we're actually going into the wall and this is going to be this is technically this is technically the vent for the whole bathroom group but also our sinks are going to dump into this okay you may have noticed throughout the process i've been kind of running my fingers and all these shavings go flying that's super important because on the inside of the pipe if you left that you can see how like hair and that type of stuff could catch and start making restriction in the pipe on cell core pipe generally the the burrs come off super easy with your fingers so i've got my stand pipe for the sink drains and the wet vented section of this and all this pipe piping is going to be in the wall so we're running out of time today but tomorrow morning we're going to come back and we're going to pipe in this vent here then the fixture cross right here along with a clean out and this can go above or below it doesn't actually matter and then we'll have two arms that come out at the center of our sinks that will be all for tomorrow so that's the last thing i'm gonna do is glue this stand pipe on all right we're back here day two we're gonna finish up this vent here and then also put in the fixture cross and then stub out to our centers of the sink so there'll be one on either side here and then we'll also stub out the water with our water brackets so the next step is going to be to set this fixture across to height i always like to go 20 inches off of the floor to the center of the stub out height and that would be a rough floor you're going to have a little bit of variance on what they put down for floor coverings but it shouldn't be enough to matter and the reason for that is so that the trap comes into the cabinet and connects to the drain at the correct height so if you know all your details you can always change that and play around with it but i found that 20 inches off of rough is a good number for any circumstance so let's get this cut to height and we'll um start putting it all together all right so i've already made a little mark where the center of this center drain is going to go into here so this center is the same as the center so what i do is i take my tape measure and i'll make a mark 20 inches looks like we're right near the top i'll hook the bottom plate that's where i want the center of those arms to be so then i can line up this right with the center of that line and then this where this bevel changes that'll be the inside of the hub that's right where i need to cut to get this set right to the correct height so before i glue the fixture across on i'm going to recover this end and we're going to drill through our two studs at the correct height that way we don't get any shavings in here and that way if i pop through with my bit i don't slam into this fitting because then it'll be another parts around i only bought one so you can notice when i'm gluing that going the fitting normal but on the pipe end i always put three quarters of the dauber only down not the full dauber otherwise you end up with primer hanging way down below and it's a good habit to get into because if you ever do an exposed pvc then it'll look a lot nicer so before i set the arms i'm going to connect this pipe here this is the vent pipe venting the whole bathroom so i'm going to get the clean out installed and then the pipe into that because then that way this is set left to right because if i do it beforehand then it's going to move my pipes to the centers of the sinks and i don't want that so i want this locked in and then i can lock in the arms after all right so i've set the vent of course you don't want to forget to put some pipe dope on here i'll get that in a second and put it on but then now we're going to put these trap arms on we're going to set them one inch off of center of where the exact center of the sink is and the reason for that is if you ever have a sink bowl too far back to the wall it'll allow some trap swing so that you can get into a tighter you can get your trap installed in a tighter spot and if that bowl isn't off it's not a big deal to extend the trap out further so it has a lot to do with setting yourself up for success on trim so always go an inch to about two inches off center with this stubble from where your actual sink center is going to be so this will be one to two inches off of the the real center that will be when the cabinet is set alright so i got the pipe dope here the reason for this is because if you ever had a condensation ride down this pipe it could drip out that's more unlikely but you still want to have it because of the main reason which is because there's sewer gas you don't want to get sewer gas going into your house that's not safe so you always have to go in hand tight one and just snug this up a little bit and of course you don't want to over tighten because if this this is going inside of the plastic and this is plastic so if you over tighten you can split your tee then you have to cut it out and start over sometimes you're in a spot where you're touching hub to hob and if you break your teeth it's even more of a project to replace so never over tighten these so our center here is 14 inches off of raw framing that's where our finished center is going to be so as long as i'm about right where i'm at even i'm 15 and a half that will work to be one to two inches off so what i'll do is then that comes out pretty much flush with the stud which is easy and then i can just measure to the inside of the hub now before it sets up i take my level and i just want that to be graded back slightly into the wall quarter inch to be exact for this next part we're gonna do a little trick to get this trap arm exactly where we want it so what i what i did here is i took this which is 20 eight and three quarter to the end of the pipe and i transferred that onto the floor 28 and three quarter right here so that is that same numbers to the end of the pipe now right here i'm an inch and a half off from where the center of the sink will be which is what i want i want to be roughed in an inch and a half off so all i have to do now is line this fitting up with the center and then hold it straight and measure my piece from the end so now i'm measuring right now i'm measuring from this mark to the end of this fitting here so we measure that we have 16 and an eighth plus our inch and a half to go into this hub and into this hub which will be a total of 17 and 5 8 for this cut one thing you want to check also is even though these are pretty short trap arms you got to still maintain your grade so i set these pretty close to center but the hole is oversized enough that i can pick it up and we can get this trap arm set to a quarter quarter inch per foot so it'll be about right there when i'm done you'll notice when i'm gluing i try to make the lighters facing out and right side up just like in the ground when the letters are up in the ground the only difference is they got to be facing out and right side up in the wall so the inspector has to be able to read what kind of pipe you're using to make sure it's compliant with the code one tip if you don't have any plumber's tape or plumber strap around for this if you're tipping up the pipe a little bit to get your grade you can just use your pex tubing cutters and just snip a piece of plastic off of a little off cut and then that can go in underneath just as a shim just to hold this pipe in place so you might be wondering why i have two different length trap arms and the reason is is i don't know at this point if they're going to select a light fixture that's going to center on both sinks so if they choose that and they center between it the box for the light fixture will still miss this two inch vent or whether they do a light fixture centered on each one of these centers my pipe's not in the way that is one of the most common things an electrician will get upset at a plumber for as when the plumber puts the two-inch pipe right on the center of their light fixture and they have to use a shallow box so it's one little detail that's pretty crucial one thing i didn't mention is the vent for this bathroom it goes into the attic so you're either going to be tying into another vent or running a through a new puncture through the roof and that'll have to get a roof flashing so if you're not comfortable with roofing of course you have to get a roofer involved to install that flashing so in this case we're going to tie into another vent and you want to tie into an equal or larger vent for adding a bathroom like we are in this case all right so now that we're completely done with this pvc in this room let's kind of go over how this works and why we designed it the way we did so this system is vented through one two inch vent the whole bathroom is vented through one two inch vent so the way you do that is you have to follow the rules in chapter nine i believe it is with how to vent a horizontal bathroom group and it talks about having the toilet first and then following your fixture sizing beyond the toilet you can only do four more fixture units on a two inch so if i had like a shower and a tub i would have had to run this three inch to the next y so what we're doing here is this is the trap arm for the toilet technically and then this is the trap arm from here for the tub running this way so as long as we do the toilet first and we do the sink last we follow our sizing and we follow our trap arm lengths we can vent this bathroom with one vent so the trap arm length on this two inch is five feet of course so that running to the top is really close to five feet actually the way this worked out and that's why you can see i came further this way and then backtracked just to get this pipe shortened since the trap arm starts from here and runs to the where the trap will be located in the sand so now let's kind of move focus over to this double lab set up here so technically with this double lab set up the sinks are venting from here since this is the vent starting right here up on a conventional this is also venting the lavs but technically this vent in this case is wet vent because this pipe below here is not only a drain but also a vent so this vented section i'll just point to it is obviously from here and up into the attic but the wet vented section is from here down around there and all the way to where this y is so that would be considered the wet vented section right there up to the bottom of this fixture cross so that wet vent since we followed all the criteria all the air for each fixture for the toilet for the tub shower over there and for the two sinks here it's drying air from this pipe to all those fixtures when they have when they're being used okay so now that we got all the pvc installed we need to get some water to all these fixtures so there's going to be a hot and a cold to the lav hot and cold to this lav there's two here and then there's going to be a cold water jumper running over to the toilet and then we're going to run a hot and cold jumper under the concrete over to the tub shower unit so let's talk about where how do you know which lines to tie into so in this case here it's pretty easy so we have an on-demand water heater in the mechanical room back here so in here i'll kind of point this is the cold outlet there or sorry cold inlet there and then the hot outlet so that's the cold feeding the unit and the red one is the hot coming out we've followed those lines back they go up over the mechanical room and come down in the wall right here so you can see we've already done it but these are three quarter half by half press tees if you don't have a pro press tool though you can drain the system off and solder in and you notice we're going half to a whole bathroom but you can do up to a full bathroom on half inch lines so we'll run from here across feed these two lavs and then we're going to drop into the sand with some jumpers running over to the other fixtures as needed all right so the first thing i'm going to do here is install these brackets for the lavs and then we'll have a couple more holes to drill through the bottom plate to get those lines into the sand that are running over to the other fixtures but right now we're gonna put these brackets on right where we want them so these brackets mount to the studs and then these clips go on because you can see they open and close so that you can pop them on the pecs and then they tighten onto the bracket and onto the pecs when they're when these little tabs go through the holes so those will hold the stub outs into the cabinet of the sink in place so that you can put on you can either do copper sub outs through these or packs in this case i'm going to do pecs and we're going to do pex angle stops which are shut offs underneath the cabinet all right so this bracket i've i've set the spacing how i want it you want to be a minimum of about four or five inches because you don't want your trim discussions to overlap underneath the sink so it's good to have a spread here and then also to leave room from your drain stub into the sink again so your discussion doesn't hit your drain or and if you put a discussion over your drain piece later you don't want that to hit either so the next thing is we're gonna we're gonna get this right where we want it height wise and here you can eyeball a little bit left to right and we'll get that mounted right where we want it so i'm just leveling this bracket and then i'm going to set the other one the same next to it so for now i'm not going to nail it although we have all the holes drilled you can see i've fished some water lines in here we've already done the tie in here with three quarter by half pro press tees like i said earlier you can solder that if you don't have a pro press tool it's adapting to pex and then we just did two ball valves so we could get the water up and running for the customer again so i'll be able to crimp on the other side of the ball valve and then run the lines through i'll be teeing out for this sink keying out for this ink and then teeing down to the run one to the toilet and then i'll actually have to add one more hole there for the jumper that runs to the toilet so let's get to it yeah so here you can see that i left a space between the fitting and that space is so when this ring called the otico ring in this case crimps the pecs will push out of the end as it compresses so it's almost like you could say oozing out of the end of the ring and you don't want that pecs to be contacting before you crimp because that is putting pressure on the bar basically it's a steady pulling force on the barb and over time that barb could break right off of a brass fitting so this more applies to brass but it's a good it's really good to do it as a habit on all your crimp connections fittings like viega brand come with a pre-built in stopper so those you don't have to worry about it you just push them all the way in and crimp them but if you don't have a stopper then you have to leave that slight gap between the ring the ring and the end of the pipe are flush and then you can see that gap in between the end of the pipe and the fitting and as when i crimp it that'll push that blue bit of pex on the other side out just a little bit you can see as i compress that a little bit more pex is sticking out the end than when we started so if that didn't have a gap and that's pushing against the brass that's not good that could break and fail over time so here i'm just going to line up where it needs to go and i always have my sharpie on my hip pops out and i just make a mark right where i want it to line up i mean i don't usually get as carried away to measure off of here you know it's i guess over time with working you get better at eyeballing and one thing you notice that i'm cutting this and putting this so that the hot is on the left side might seem obvious but it's pretty easy to get caught up in what you're doing and accidentally put the hot on the right side but to be standard it has to go on the left so i'm going to put on this side first since it's going to be inside of the stud so and then i usually like to put a piece of pex on too so i'm going to put this drop down while i'm at it and then i'll do the left side of the t last and that's just so you're kind of doing the pre-building method i call it where you pre-build everything you can instead of putting yourself in an unnecessary tough situation as you can see here this will disappear into here which it wouldn't have been able to be crimped then i'll flex this on now you can see that's lands in the wood stud but that's fine so here we have a just for demonstration a piece of pipe and a half inch pex tee and this is standard crimp packs not expansion or anything like that so the ring i don't know if you've seen i slid that ring on like that and you want this to pretty much be flush maybe just a hair past the ring like like so and then this push is on and then you're also leaving a gap on that stopper so that when this compresses that pecs will come out but it won't be touching the stopper if it's touching it'll be at the end of the crimp so if that that you don't want to be touching all the way down on the stopper just because it puts unnecessary tension on the extra stress on the fitting so then you simply grab a hold of this with your crimp tool and this part let's look at it from this angle these this will be almost closed when you're done and what that's doing is setting the what are pretty much like gears right here so that that that steel ring is locked in that closed position and then that's compressing back to here you can see those rings it compresses the plastic over those rings there so that the water can't leak and it's crazy but you can still spin the fitting after it's been crimped with this style and it doesn't hurt anything it's still going to hold so this is my stub out piece i'm going to use and if you kind of go in sideways and then splay it open a little bit then you can still push it in that way you don't have to pull the clip back off and then i'll simply put my rings on and put it together so you can tell that that one rings falling you just got to make sure that as you're crimping that you get it in there okay now the water lines are done we have these two half inch tie-ins here with ball valves um we have we tested them by turning on the water and then we just shut the valves off after but all the connections seem to be holding we have a hot and a cold for this lav on the left a hot and a cold for the lav on the right and then you can see we have three jumpers that go into the floor you have one jumper for the toilet cold supply you have a hot and a cold that go to the tub which we're going to install after the concrete has been patched and the wall is framed there so that's three lines total running below the concrete one to the toilet for the cold toilet supply and on these you'll notice also that we as far as the location for where this goes you want to be seven inches over from the center line of the toilet you want to be seven inches over and seven up which is exactly a two by six technically five and a half inch block with an inch and a half wall plate for a total of seven inches to the bottom of this line so it's perfect to just nail a block on the bottom and talon it onto the top of the block and that's a perfect toilet roughing so then here we have the two lines and you can see we kind of just have them capped and hanging out for now because later these will bend up like this and we'll connect these to the shower valve with the tub spout but that's going to be a later phase of this project so we basically have them roughed in we'll also set that p trap and all the wasting overflow at that time too so we kind of have this roughed in and ready to go for the next phase of the project all right thanks for watching don't forget to like and subscribe if we've earned it and also i look forward to seeing you in the next video [Music] you

Channel: J&RS Build

Views: 539,674

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Id: dir9x5RShG4

Length: 35min 27sec (2127 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 12 2022