How To Revive Abandoned Cars and Trucks! 1974 F350 First Start

ladies and gentlemen welcome to another episode of junkyard digs my name is kevin brown and this is my faithful companion captain poopsalot just kidding this is koda and this is a 1974 f-350 dually four-barrel 460 four-speed ranger xlt beast of a work truck and we're gonna see if it'll run and drive once again so let's get to it now you may notice there's also another truck over there that there's a 68 f-100 that i'll be doing in a separate video you can check that out right up here if i remember to put it in if i don't head to the channel and check it out there and while you're there make sure you hit subscribe currently there's only 39 of our viewers that are subscribed so if you're one of those 61 head down there and turn that red button gray so we can make even more great content for you guys without further ado let's take a look at what we're dealing with today all right now that our intro is done it is time to change shirts and tell you exactly where i am and why these are significant that right there is a 68 f-100 like i mentioned from oklahoma and this right here it's a 74 f350 from oklahoma my buddy jed had taken a trip down south with an empty trailer traded a couple trucks and brought these back and eventually convinced me that i should own more problems so here i am if you recognize where i am right now this is where we did the thunderbird revival the honda atc revival and ride with derrick and where we pulled that rotary snowmobile from that right there is a 303 cc rotary so it should go without saying that jet has been a huge help to us making content in the past and it should go without saying that if you guys need diesel work done that's the place to go without further ado i'm gonna put this thing down so it stops biting me and get to work all right cody want to tell them what we're dealing with here today so this is pretty much just your typical 70s one ton with a few key features that make it really neat like this the smack hit brush bar nice thick solid bar brush bar all the way around moving back we have a sweet 70s spotlight right here seems to still be in functional condition hopefully uh and right below that unit five is peeking through the paint so i gotta wonder is this a fire truck at one point with it was probably being one ton it was just a cab and it might have had a firebox on the back and some farmer probably got it and turned it into this up top we have some sweet clearance lights i really hope those work those are badass coming past our tow mirrors here really faintly in the paint right there the word smokey on the driver's door so i have my suspicions that this might have been a fire rig turned farm truck a little beyond that we've got a split window in the rear and then this sweet toolbox tank this thing is built to withstand a nuclear bomb looks like we have no tank connections so we have to figure all that out and then of course if you're down south working on the cattle ranch what are you gonna have on your truck besides a flatbed and this thing's a really nice one it's gusseted and welded up and full plated and it's got this bumper bar all the way around the um strap hooks it's like jh manufacturing maybe cutouts for the lights big old bumper hitch right there we got our duals and probably a 10 and a quarter rear axle nice beefy headache rack up here interesting i haven't seen this before usually you have like half skirts that come to here and then your rangers and higher models will come to here but this has a leather pouch and pockets on the bottom that go all the way down to here moving inside we have this beautiful seat cover over a seat that's if i had to guess probably in really good shape oh wow no that's really ugly actually is that supposed to be green or brown a lot of mold on the steering wheel the dash has got a few cracks in it our ranger xlt badge a couple kick-ass switches over there probably for our running lights and some other surprise i don't know about big old leather headliner and whatever the hell this thing is oh wait i know exactly what this is this is your old stetson holder right there that holds your cowboy hat oh my god this truck is so southern ah check that out it's like a factory ford cargo light switch that's badass i've never seen that before most importantly though this right here big old four-speed transmission boy some kind of hood ornament that probably was really cool there's now missing dang it oh yeah oh yeah that's what i like to see a giant crow what the what is this oh that's probably the hood ornament put that back on in here we have a four barrel holly sitting atop 460 cubic inches of hell yes wait a minute no it's not i was told it is but it's not that's an fe so you can tell it is by the way it is so to identify an fe versus a 460 uh or just in general identifying an fe it's very simple and it's all about this seam right here in fe the push rods go through the intake so the intake extends underneath the valve cover and then meets way down here and the heads are like some kind of like three-quarter length head it looks really weird so if you see that seam right there that means you have an fe if i had a guess this is probably a 390. all right sitting here in post i feel like i could have explained that a little bit better so let me draw a couple diagrams to show you what i'm talking about with that seam alright this is a ford fe engine here's the intake here are the heads and this is where they meet notice how that seam is under the valve covers since that intake has the push rods going through as you can see it proceeds underneath the valve cover and part of the valve cover gasket actually seals to the intake instead of just the cylinder head for comparison here's a more regular motor this is a 327 rambler v8 notice how that seam the red line is external of the valve covers and do not go beneath it this is regular for most engines which is what makes identifying the fe so easy for the fun of it here's a picture of a buick nail head these things are wild in fact if you notice the valve train actually crosses its own path i have one of these i'll build some day if i ever get the parts or the heads back it's been almost three years anywho back to the truck so i bought this truck knowing that there was an issue with the fuel system and now i know what it is it's not hooked up should be a pretty easy fix uh this would honestly probably drop a battery and hit the key drive home however there's not a lot of entertainment in that and definitely no educational benefit for our viewers so i'm gonna go through this as if it was a truck sitting out in the woods and show you guys everything you need to do to do your own revival on this era of ford and honestly cars in general for the most part every single car you ever touch ever is different they all have their unique reason they were parked they all have unique problems unique systems and schematics nothing is the same but everything's the same because a carburetor is a carburetor an ignition system is an ignition system valves are valves and an engine is an engine so if you understand the basics of each system and its components you can make anything run so starting out i'm walking up to a truck i know nothing about two things i'm gonna do before i even touch a battery to bring it near the truck thing number one get this air cleaner off and make sure there's nothing living in that carburetor i don't want to suck a bunch of down into that car oh you appear to be clean checking for mud dauber nest my sticks leaves anything that might have happened because who knows maybe this sat for five years before someone put an air cleaner on top of it step number next does it have liquids i do this every time i don't always show it on camera sometimes it gets cut out we forget to film it bubble ball but we're pulling the dipstick to check the oil and it is obnoxiously thick and needs change really bad all right let's go for coolant i heard pressure pop when i open the lid so i know the system's at least to one psi it's sealed chances are it's probably okay i see some anti-freeze in there i definitely need to add some water before we drive transmission oh wait that's right it's a manual never mind before we usually do any actual long road trips with vehicles we revive i'll always crawl underneath and check the transmission level and the differential level it takes 10 minutes to check both of those cost you four dollars in liquid to fill them because they're usually pretty much full but it will save you having to replace the trans or rear axle if they're empty this one i did see has a bunch of grease packed up inside one of the wheels over there so the o-ring on the end of the floating axle probably leaks and needs replaced so i should probably check that fluid level before i even leave here all right next step take your hand open the carburetor all the way and then close it all the way do that a couple times make sure nothing's binding and nothing's going to catch and hold your throttle stuck wide open in some weird scenario a lot of times random springs and random spots will get bound a wire will hang in the way it's happened to me more times than i want to admit that fire something up hit the gas and just goes whoop and you gotta shut her down because your springs are something goofy don't trust work other people did before you got it go through everything yourself so you know what you're about to ride or drive is properly correct it's like why i never take any cars to other shops to be worked on because i want to work on them myself i do all my own work so i know what's wrong i know it was installing correctly or slapped together with rtv that was me next up we're just going to look for battery cables make sure they're properly bolted on doesn't fall off and spark into anything cause a fire i got a positive i got a negative just checking radiator hoses make sure everything's present just give it a good once over all our wires are here nothing's chewed off it's looking good once all your visual checks are clear and everything looks good go ahead and throw a hand on that fan realize it's a clutch fan and that's not gonna work then go into your toolbox and grab a 15 16 if it's a ford or who freaking knows what's going to be today if it's a chevy and put a ratchet down there on that crank wait for the motorcycle to drive by and then turn that over do a couple rotations just to feel that the engine is good if it's sticky pull the plugs dump atf down the cylinders let it sit and just roll it over keep refilling them pb blaster atf whatever you want until you get that thing to roll over smooth it's it's a crucial point for longevity of a motor is to make sure you're not running dry rings up and down i've been told this truck runs i know it's ran within the last two years i think gotten those last time and actually ran and drove has like a vehicle versus just a motor sitting here running but i'm not too worried about doing a dry start on this motor at this point it's all up to you what you want to do next you can pop that carburetor off and start doing carburetor things which i know i'm going to have to do before i can really drive this today because despite it probably working the accelerator pumps probably jump oh it actually works and the power valve or valves are probably bad but generally you're going to want to take that carburetor off and rebuild it you can do that now or you can do what i like to do and go get the battery and throw it in because i like to have you know a little bit of excitement to keep me moving with the next steps instead of just working for an hour and a half and hitting the key and driving it off that's not a lot of fun it was fun at that have some rewards as you go so yeah let me go grab the battery all right we're going to take a 60 second pause from the video to talk about something very important how expensive 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first order that's k-e-e-p-s dot com slash junkyard digs i knew learning the spell would pay off someday all right let's have some fun now if you're lucky the vehicle you just purchased or are reviving has a set of keys in it if you're unlucky it does not but that's okay that's an easy fix this is all part of that knowing how systems work and then just knowing components of different vehicles so when it comes to cranking or hot wiring a car a ford is stupid simple you need about three inches of wire and you can make this sucker run this right here is your starter solenoid in our 79 bronco revival i have a great explanation of how these work and how you can hot wire around them for simplicity's sake i'll go ahead and just play that clip right now so what this does one of these will control the solenoid from the key and engage that magnet down into the contacts and let continuity flow across from this post through to this post and out when this is energized this is not energized the spring opens it up and these just sit here with nothing passing through and this one goes to the ignition system so that the draw from the battery does not affect the ignition system as much because these ignition systems run on nine volts so when you have nine volts and you take a big draw from the battery to turn the motor over that nine volts goes down to like seven and it's not enough to make a spark so this connects straight into that and actually while it's cranking it gives it 12 volts so yeah basically these two are separate until this wire gets power a plunger connects these two and then these two get power this right here goes the starter and this right here runs 12 volts to your coil because while cranking you want 12 volts to make up for the voltage loss that the battery's going to have from running that big-ass starter and the regular 9-volt supply would not be enough to keep up with that so that's what that wire right there does to hot wire one of these is dumb simple but i'll tell you right now do not steal cars only do this if you're in a bind or you don't keys for vehicle you just purchased all you're going to do is pop this guy off and pop this guy off you can take two wires wrapped around here hook one to here to turn your ignition on and tap the other here to crank and when you want to shut it off you just unplug that one on this dual prong style right here that is all it takes to make one of these run or you can do what these guys did and run a wire all the way to the positive side of the coil like such now i will say doing that will make your engine run it will not make your alternator charge you'll have to close a contact inside this voltage regulator which may be in one of many spots on these trucks to close the circuit for the alternator and make a charge i don't exactly remember which wire it is i want to say it might be the yellow one but don't quote me there uh pull up a schematic of whatever style charging system you have because they will differ figure out which one needs 12 volts input to close that contact which you can hear when i do this and you will have a charging system so that's ignition chevy's similar thing find that wire close the voltage regulator and put 12 volts to this wire right here however on a chevy that solenoid is down on the starter so you just trace the wires back figure out which one runs that solenoid and just clip it up here wherever it is and short it out into the battery post most of your chevys is going to be an hdi ignition system those went 12 volts all the time fun fact if you put an hdi system in a ford it needs that 12 volts ford is only going to feed at 9 volts and it's not going to run right run a new lead to that or take out your ballast resistor and get 12 volts to that ignition system so at this point you've got everything wired up to where you either have a key and everything's factory or you have a wire wherever it needs to go to put power to your coil and your starter starting out usually i won't even put power to the coil i just did a starter for this test that accelerator pump did work earlier so i won't be surprised that this thing pops off right now when i hit the key but i'm going to go in there and just tap the key and listen for any weird grinding or cracking or whatever noises might come out of this motor and if anything's wrong i'm going to stop and walk up here and be like well what the hell was that and stare at it for five minutes till i get an idea so let's do that so at this point you know you have a motor that spins over and sounds marginally okay i'm sure whatever that noise was it'll go away one of those scenarios everything did spin and continued over the whole time so i'm not too worried about that i know fees love to bend push rods so it's probably something goofy in there and the weird thing is they'll bend and push off and they'll just run forever these things are immortal the next step at this point is going to be disconnect your coil lead right here hold it up to something metal keep your hand away from the end of it a few inches keep your arm off anything metal try not to touch the truck at all and kind of hover in there and hold that right there while someone cranks the vehicle so inside the truck our key is turned on i'm going to take this right here and hold that in here and watch for spark and then just touch this to that post i talked about earlier and crank from up here as you can see we have great spark and what you just heard was the engine was kind of rolling over soft and then went and you could hear the starter working harder if i had a guess that was oil pressure actually building in the motor so it's not always a cause for concern but if stuff starts cranking harder sometimes you might want to stop and roll it over with a ratchet again so we now know that this truck has spark which is excellent but let's say it doesn't i'm going to pop this cap off and we're going to take a look at the points inside okay well never mind someone has converted this over to electronic ignition in most cases there's a set of points right here and you're going to take a piece of sandpaper and put it between them and scrub and clean those up let me dig through our videos and see if i have a good example to throw in right now of us doing that and it working properly our points are definitely corroded though as you can see they're very white right there i'm just going to open these up and put a piece of sandpaper in there and clean them up and you want to wipe them off when you're done or blow them off the best you can okay now i'll go turn the ignition back on and if those are working i'll be able to open it apart so what this is doing right here is this coil is charged all the time it has a positively powered all the time when it's on and it's grounded through this body of the distributor through this point everything on this plastic piece up until this little brass arm right here is insulated so right now those points are open and what that does is it cuts the power to that coil by removing the ground so right now the coil has no power in it when you close it it recharges that coil and because the way these are designed there's a long metal core in the middle with wire wrapped around and when you remove the ground it discharges all the power it has soared up out this wire so whenever you remove that ground anytime you want it will make a spark out of that coil by deleting the ground from the system what you can do is utilize that ability and time it with this cam right here in the center the sixth lobe cam because this is a six cylinder then when the engine rotates the cam rotates see i can just barely move it by hand and when that cam opens this arm it interrupts that ground and makes this part and those lobes represent all six cylinders which is why the timing of your distributor is so important there it went so when your points get corroded they will never make that connection to charge the coil in the first place that's why you got to clean those up ideally replace them if you're on the field like this just stand them off so we get to go for a little bit all right welcome back i hope you learned something another thing to check clean this right here make sure this little tab is good make sure he has enough spring in him if he's been bent down for some reason he will not reach the contact up here so come bend him up give him a little more spring clean this edge the best you can make sure he's properly seated in there make sure everything moves now's a good time to pop off the vacuum advance line and go ahead and suck on that and see if your vacuum advance is working it is so we're gonna go that was really gross it took a little while but it hit me we're gonna rotate our cap upside down and look at all those points then come in with a flat screwdriver or a knife and clean all of those points and then put everything back together and try again so we should now have spark our cap is back on pop this back off crank it try again and hopefully you'll have spark if not you may have to replace the points i've seen some where they're just so gone or they're the back sides aren't uh making any continuity and they just need replaced but generally a points or condenser is all that's going to be wrong you can test the coil too by the way let me find a clip where we show that all right so what we're doing right now is we're testing out our coil because apparently we don't have another one of those so anyway what i got going on here is i just directly hot wired the positively the coil to the battery and then we threw an auxiliary wire here under the negative side of our coil and we pulled our original coil plug off here which goes the distributor and we put our spark plug on it and basically what we're going to do with this wire is when we kind of touch it to a piece of metal we're basically doing what the distributor is doing and interrupting the coil and that discharges its spark so if you see here [Music] got a nice clean piece that we can get a ground to and if you look at the spark plug the spark plug is indeed sparking so at least as far as that goes our coil's good in all my years i have never seen a bad coil so a lot of times people just replace them to replace them and i don't really know why if you do make sure you carry the old one with you because if it's made this far what's going to stop it from continuing on now okay quick pause one thing i never did discuss in this video was ignition timing and installing a distributor slash making sure one is installed properly in the part two of the series which is what you're seeing right now i do a really good walkthrough of installing a distributor and the importance of ignition timing you can go check that out in that video as for all of those who message me twice a week asking how to set their ignition timing the answer is literally in your hand you have a phone i know this because you've messaged me use that and just google it thunderhead289 has some excellent videos about installing distributors and ignition timing so does jegs so does a thousand other people i'm getting kind of tired of people messaging me essentially asking for me to google stuff for them all the answers are in your palm with today's technology all you have to know in life to succeed is how to properly google a question i literally got an ad about googling stuff while making this so we know we have spark we know we have rotation in the engine sounds like it has compression nothing sounds detrimental and unhealthy inside let's go ahead and get something flammable down that carburetor and see if this thing will make some noise all right we got some gasoline uh sometimes i like to use two-stroke because there's a little extra oil in there help that top end after it's been sitting for a while but i didn't bring any today so ah right now [Music] alrighty so we have a running motor now we get to the fun stuff making it a good running motor all right step one the thing everyone always screws up and the thing that is usually nine times out of ten the issue the ignition system not actually the carburetor these are pretty forgiving a lot of people put two or three carbs on a car and spend a ton of time working on a carburetor and it was an ignition system all along be it the timing was set wrong there's a bad spring inside the points bad condenser is bad i'm not you 80 of the time it is ignition not the carburetor so the first fe i ever worked on taught me this one the hard way always always always verify your firing order and i probably should have done that already prior to this but like i said this is supposedly a running motor in the last couple years so i didn't think it would be an issue i thought it honestly thought it'd run a little better so we're gonna pull up google 390 fe firing order we're going to look at basically everything google pulls up because it's going to pull up whatever the hell it thinks is relevant to you and i don't know how many times people have looked up the firing order for 302 and google's given the first three image as the wrong one especially because the 302 has two firing orders always cross reference whatever data it is you're working with with another source or a few sources to make sure what you're about to go through all the work to do isn't incorrect to start with so this one's one five four two six three seven eight another way to do it is right here on the intake this stamped firing order three seven eight so yep there's our firing order step two find number one on the cap now on forwards there's literally often a little number one or a dot or a line on the cap to show you which one is supposed to be number one if you don't have a number one on the cap you can trace the number one plug wire on a ford it's one two three four five six seven eight the way numbers work chevy likes to make you do math to go one three five seven two four six eight we're gonna find the furthest forward spark plug very carefully trace that wire to right here which is indeed where there is a little number one on the cap so number one is in the correct position now we're going to look at our rotation direction so we know where number one is we're now going to look at which way the distributor rotates on our phone it's going to be going this way so it should be one five so i'm gonna trace him all the way and these these get bundled up and i don't know how many times you'll trace it and it'll look right but it's wrong that's five so one five four should be the very back one it is indeed and eight all right so our firing order is confirmed it is correct that is not our issue with why this thing doesn't appear to be running on all cylinders next we're going to look at fueling issues and before i take this carb off to work on it i want to know is it too rich or is it too lean if it's too lean we probably have jets that are clogged and systems need cleaned out and this will need thoroughly rebuilt if it's too rich it's probably a bad power valve and we can fix that right here right now there's a very simple way to do this and this works for any engine get it running manually add fuel and it can be a secondary source or just pull the choke if i put a little fuel in and it starts running better it is too lean as it sits if i put fuel in and it starts running worse it's already too rich same thing with the choke if it's sitting there idling or trying to run and you pull the choke halfway or all the way out and it gets better it's too lean if you pull the choke all the way out and it dies it's too rich so let's go ahead and fire this up and see what it tells us so according to that if you add any more fuel it wants to die out which means you're probably too rich which means your power valves are probably blowing i do have a way to test it let me go grab a screwdriver now granted it's hard to tell because the way it's running but to recap the symptoms we're seeing is more fuel equals sad and less fuel potentially equals better we can't really just put less fuel in what we can do is turn our mixture screws all the way in and remember when you're turning in mixture screws do not ram jam them tight that will ruin a carburetor just snug them down like i mean like like an inch pound of torque until they stop turning and you just let go so what i'm doing is shutting off all the idle circuit fuel from the mixer screws which means we effectively have less fuel going in the engine it shouldn't run if it runs better right now because there's less fuel we absolutely definitively have a bad power valve let's see and it runs worse interesting okay well i'm going to do the opposite of that i'm going to go out one and a half turns with these mixture screws there's always a chance it was too lean and me just dumping fuel in was not atomizing properly and it was just choking on it now that's too closed and it died so we're not getting excessive fuel into the system this carburetor might actually be still functional all right so we've got some plastic line that is around for fuel lines on this truck i just hooked my little boat tank up should be good to go there is a tank selector on this truck and i don't know where it wants to be i'm gonna leave it where it was and unhook this to watch if we get fuel up front so we'll just set him right there where he'll just spray feel on the ground instead of you know somewhere i could start a big fire now this is another big thing you guys are going to run into if your fuel pump works honestly it's a 50 50. sometimes you come up to a vehicle and there's already an electric field pump on it because the fuel pump quit years ago a lot of times your fuel pump will work but the lines might have a hole in somewhere and if there's any holes in the line it's not going to draw fuel it's just going to draw air because air is lighter than fuel in that case pop the rubber line off the intake of the fuel pump and run it to a bucket somewhere or like a one gallon jug hanging off the bumper and sometimes hopefully like in this case you'll just be good to go [Music] thank you so the alternator and the fuel pump work i pulled the terminal thinking i would shut that off but the alternator worked so it just kept it just still had voltage to the coil either way it's nice and flush now we got all the out of the lines which is a key component make sure you're always running fresh gas you've seen us run stuff off of what's in the tank before and i've learned that that is a big no-no with the bronco when it started gluing all the valves in the valve guides and now we need a new motor run an external tank until you have time to verify that the tank is either good and clean or you flush it out and put fresh gas in either way whatever you do always put a filter before your fuel pump so you catch all that and don't pump it in your carb so i'm gonna fire this back up and it should sit here and run on its own fuel system now come on come on oh the keys off ford tech tip what you just saw there why did it run with the key off that 12 volt wire i said that bypasses the ignition system and runs 12 volts right here will have power when cranking if your truck starts just like that if it starts when you hit this crank position of the key and as soon as you go back and run it dies in chevy's you usually have a bad ballast resistor um fords i don't think they actually use a legit ballast resistor i think it's a resistor in a wire somewhere but either way the problem is when it's running that nine volt system to this coil has a problem but the 12 volt crank system is still good so now that i have the key turned on let's see if it stays running as you can see it's running better now but we're still missing a cylinder so now i need to figure out which cylinder is missing and why to do that i'm going to start unplugging plug wires until i unplug one or two that don't make a difference let's start with number one i'm not gonna touch anything on the truck by the way or else i'll get shot [Music] number one is operating that one makes a big difference that one makes a big difference [Music] that's a really healthy cylinder there it is [Music] so now we know that this one right here is our culprit he is not making any power and makes no difference to the idle quality when i unplug them which one are you oh and i found the problem just like that so when i did my visual inspection earlier i did not visually inspect enough to find that this plug wire has been cut so i'm gonna get rid of him give me a plug wire in there and see how much better it runs i don't have as many of those wires with me as i thought but i found one that should work emphasis on me should all right let's hit the key and see if it's smoother still not making a difference though at this point i'm going to pull the spark plug and inspect the ceramic portion see if it's cracked see if we're maybe grounded out somewhere over there and the spark is not making it all the way into the chamber all right the next clue to the diagnosing our misfire adventure i have not loosened this plug as you can see i can wiggle this plug once again one of those weird things that i can't tell people to look out for but now that you've seen this video you'll probably keep an eye out for it close good all right time to do the old cliche and get the compression tester all right so let's do a quick recap we've determined that no matter what we do with the fuel settings of the carburetor that cylinder does not get picked back up we've determined that no matter what we do with the ignition that cylinder does not get picked back up we've determined that the spark plug and the ignition system in general is not an issue because we've diagnosed all the pieces one at a time and nothing's changed now it is time to move on to compression and see if we have any a normal healthy motor should be above 120 it should be like 120 to 210 especially for a stock motor like this you start getting the aftermarket camshafts and your dynamic compression as in what it is actually spinning over in real life versus on paper it will be lower so i would imagine we should see all of 120 to 150 here if this is working because this is a stock motor one thing to note when doing a compression test you need to hold the throttle wide the heck open or else it will not properly operate okay what the hell it didn't even move so i'm gonna move that tester to a different plug it is a brand new one i just picked up don't know if it works or not i'm gonna move it to a different plug and make sure everything is happy all right so we've got the compression tester hooked up to cylinder number five right now i'm gonna go ahead and crank the motor over and we'll see if there's compression to show you exactly what i was talking about with opening the throttle i'm going to crank it until the needle stops moving and then lean in and open the throttle and you should see the needle continue on to i don't know probably another like 30 more psi if i had to guess yeah you can see it put on another 15 psi so it's not huge but actually sometimes be the difference between a good and bad motor this motor has a bit of wear in it making only about 100 psi but yeah she runs good enough for what we're doing so what does this tell us it tells us that the compression tester gauge works just fine and that there is indeed no compression in cylinder number eight now is that because there's a hole in the piston is that because there's a bent push rod i don't know i do know that fe motors are very notorious for bending push rods so i'm going to go ahead and pull that valve cover and we'll have some answers good news is everything looks fine bad news is everything looks fine let's roll it over a little bit and see if both those valves come open and close well the valves seem to be working just fine this went from how to do a revival to what the hell's wrong with this truck real quick all right so we have our horoscope and in turn we have our results so as you can see we have our piston and it is very clean it should be pretty greasy and grimy and dirty like this over here but instead everything on this side is nice and shiny which means it's been steam cleaned and as you can see right there on the wall that's all coolant that's that's literally coolant coming out of right there might actually even be a cracked head i don't even know that might not even be a head gasket it's a lot of fluid right there either way there's our answer why cylinder eight is dead the best we can do for this now is just put it all back together and drive it around seven lungs until you get a new head gasket or a head on this motor i don't know how many times i've tried to film how to do a revival and they every time i do that something weird happens and i have to either scrap that part and just do it like a regular revival or if i follow through with it this happens if we have a bad motor for the most part though we completed this revival we went to the ignition system we went through the key system and everything else to get this thing to run and then i showed you a bunch of tips on how to diagnose misfires which you're always going to have on revivals and then after that it's just carb stuff which we've done a thousand times pop the sucker off take this bowl off take this metering plate off put a new power valve in put new seals on put a new accelerator pump back in put it all back together put new gaskets underneath it and put it all back on and you should at that point have a finished fuel system tune it just like you do everything else and then you should have yourself a running driving vehicle after that it's just the usual stuff go through the brake system get new tires on it go through any bushings grease everything make sure there's no broken or damaged components underneath the vehicle that you can fix and you're good to go with that being said i'm gonna go ahead and put this thing back together and we'll see if it drives around the yard at the lease all right i have all of our sadness reassembled let's go ahead and hop in and hit the key because there's nothing else gotta see if this thing still drives one thing i never mentioned change your thermostat pretty much always bad i think i got my firing order wrong that's what an inquiry firing order sounds like doggy all right let's see if she moves [Music] hey [Music] there's no power steering so that's fun but she does run and drive kind of no power oh brake flight went off brakes work hell yeah well well there you have it she's running and driving but i have some definite motor work to do at this point i guess i'll hop on the road and take her back to the shop here in a couple days when i'm ready to work on it throw a head gasket in it and then decide what the hell to do with it i hope you guys enjoyed this uh wasn't exactly what i had in mind for a how to revive your own truck but i think we still got some good tech out there so either way get out there put these things back on the road where they belong we'll see you guys next time right here on junk our digs make sure you subscribe to junkyard mooc and everyone else peace

Channel: Junkyard Digs

Views: 396,837

Rating: 4.9489007 out of 5

Keywords: abandoned, revival, first, start, first start, run, drive, and, will, it, can, we, junkyard, digs, mook, how, to, DIY, fix, car, truck, F350, flatbed, do

Id: 4GL1mBGCZXo

Length: 45min 58sec (2758 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 03 2021