How To Repair a Water Damaged Plasterboard / Drywall Ceiling

hey guys James here today this video I'm going to show you how to repair or damage plaster ceiling before we get started I'll tell you a little bit about some of the tools you're going to need and a little disclaimer I'm not a professional plaster board or drywall I'm a bit of a jack-of-all-trades and I think I'm pretty handy at this sort of stuff but there are better guides out there if you want to do learn the techniques of how to pass the ball or how to actually do plastering properly and for general to them all around how to i think i'm across it so first of all tools we're going to be starting with the repair hammer and tape you'll need a power saw or a handsaw to cut some of the Timbers for framing around the opening at your prop saw Stanley knife for cutting a new plaster board probably a battery drill level for marking out where your cuts going to go two coats of base coat one coat of topping coat just a final coat you can sand clean bucket three sets of trails small medium and large sanding block drop sheets obviously before you start it that's pretty important put them down to protect the carpet you know probation roller sub-prime the undercoat for the raw plaster board and then you're going to need your finished coat of pleats alright I'll put a link below in the comment section and some of these tools you need so you look that up later let's get started with the repair all right so you can see the ceiling is pretty bad it's got quite a sagging it through the middle here it's been waterlogged for such a quite a long time that it's it's set pretty hard with this dip in it sometimes you can re screw them back up if this one is quite wet quite waterlogged so cut it out so first thing you need to do is determine the size take it back to where the ceiling is flat and you can do that by sticking a level up here and just seeing where the ceiling is okay consider my fingers under each side is touching the ceiling my sheet that I've got is 1,200 why submit ring back in that bowl Patti he's pretty much about where it stops Rocking so the next thing I like to do is open up a little section in the ceiling where the worst affected area is you know maybe a couple hundred millimeters just so you can get your head up there and have a bit of a look and see which way the rafters on the joists are running take your gyproc saw but there's still a bit of water damage plasterboard there so I'm going to take this right the way back to that bulb head and then I'll stick my hand up and see how far back to the timber this side and then I'll cut it back that way and same across this way and some across the back just to try and get an area where you can actually get back to timbers a little like pop up and see where some of these timbers are okay so you can see our next timber is back here because over here where our hole is it's pre sag still until it gets back to about here so they don't have to chop it all the way back to at least this one and then over here on the side and guys can see that that's where the joinings on the sheet to pass these timber here but still pretty sag is timber all the way back through so you've got cut it back there and then on the other side of that light fitting the other joint in the sheet runs back through there so now that I wear my timbers are I'll just keep cutting through now that I've hit it timber I've continued back along the side of the timber so I get to the joy in the sheet and then back along the joint this two corners are looking fine it's really just this side here that's still water damage and ideally it'd be great if I depended on those timbers and then when you just basically fix the sheet up but it's too wet still in that area so I'm going to go back further than these Timbers here so one of them is I'll measure the full width of a sheet back here 1,200 I'll see what it's looking like at the joint I'll cut that all the way back and then we can basically get a 1200 sheet just in to this patch here so you can see here this is the sheet that I'm going to use width wise measures 1200 so perfect for that patch up there okay so it's duty work done all the plaster boards cut it out next stage now is the trimming we're going to put two with trimming around the edges of this basically for two reasons number one so the old plaster that still might have some slight defections can be deflections I should say it's screwed back up nice and straight and to that our new plaster boards got something to screw up to as well and now a little tip once you've done the demolition keep a piece of the ceiling sheet that you've got there if it's painted so that way you can match the color now it's simply a matter of cutting out blocking to size all the way around so we can trim out the opening you know they're cut it's a matter of sliding these blocks in so it's half on each side of the sheet up here now what that's going to do even though there's still a SAG in part of this sheet is trimming we can actually screw up to that in a couple of places pull the pull the sheet back up flush now that's all blocked up we're just going to prepare the rest of this great for the gyproc so it's time to remove any old glue and screws that might be left on the old rafters next step now is to take some plasterboard screws and secure the existing plaster board back up to these battens of web fix dinner now the openings prepped just a matter of measuring to this sheet now we just mark the plaster board top and bottom use a Stanley knife just scroll the back of the paper we cut it the size yep it's going to fit I also just need to mark out the hole in my downloads going to go so I can pull that through now just play a little bit of glue just some of the center afters you're not going to believe it but I stopped up put it the wrong side all these videos they are turning down how to patch a ceiling as well because we have to patch that hole up the trick to putting these screws in is making sure that you don't pull it pass the face on the gyproc I just want to go slightly in but not not so you break the paper you go too far and they pop through the actual plaster board so there you go once you do with my stuff up and all now it's time to get ready to set these joints we're gonna put some tape on here fill them with plaster and we'll patch this hole while we're going okay so now that we're going to start on our setting some of the things that we need are some tape so for bite joints and things I think we'll go with a paper tape some of the tools you've got your little broad knife for inch then you go up to say a six inch and then I think a twelve and then above to actually that could be a twelve first product we're going to use is called a base coat and that goes in a two code system so you put it on one with your tape then you come back second coat Arcas drive and then we finish it off with bottom or top coat first of all take a little 4 inch scraper and just run it along all the edges just to make sure that there's nothing hanging down if there's any old bits of paper or anything like that in the way just get me Stanley knife just try and cut those old bits of plaster okay so now going to mix up this base add a little bit of water to a clean bucket don't a too runny we also don't want it too too stiff so it's actually looking pretty good but that's it for manufacturer says you know 10 or 15 minutes but let it stand for a little while and then we'll apply it while we let that mud sit for a couple of minutes repair model stuff up from earlier okay so depending on what Tim you got laying around for the patch I've got a bit of 90 someone's gotta open it up so I could actually fit this timber through for the patch guys on the trick here is to take say a 50mm screw and just put it in the center what that does that gives you something to hold onto now you might ask what do we put tape on the joints basically is to reinforce it if you just put money in there if there's movement between the two surfaces you'll get a crack along that joint so it just basically holds the two surfaces together bind to them and once you put your mud over it it just makes it a nice stiff joint get a little dab you start coming along in the advance pushing a little bit of mud in as you go try and fill any voids in maybe starting one in pull it straight just lightly work your way along with your hand and then come back over it with the trail just to set it in a little bit and once that's up there you don't want to pull it too hard because you don't want to stretch the the tape out okay so there you go guys that's first coded so we've got the tape in the width of our first trailer so you're really just a matter of reinforcing it you don't want too much mud in so it's not sitting too proud and it also doesn't matter if it's a little bit ugly on the first coat because we've got two more coats to go after this we're going to use the middle-sized trail next to go over it with another base coat we've got butt joints they say you should fan it out probably at least about 400 millimetres just so that you take out any imperfections you've got a standard recessed joint where recessed joint was meeting each other you only probably have to go as wide as this trowel really just to fill it in and get a nice smooth surface get really like it start in the middle let's sort of pull it back just to get it on and then you can smooth it out with the trowel so what I mean by feathering the edges it's almost like holding the trail on a bit of an angle this is exaggerated and putting pressure on the outside corner so that it just tapers it from nothing back into water joint okay so that's second coated and like I mentioned before though plastering expert so they go too harsh on me but main thing is not to leave any lumps and bumps just try and spread it out maybe a trail with wider than what your first broad knife let me put a top coat over this which we then feather out wider again and because it can be sanded you're getting into to take out any of affections just by rubbing it back and getting nice and all right you have something the very last coat is what we call the top coat and it's a premix product we skim over the top just a nice creamy consistency all right for the final coat your widest route just to spread it out nice and wide over these buckets all right there's definitely a bit of an art to that look so don't claim to you're an expert I'm pretty happy with that so I'm reasonably thin enough so that now when it dries I can come back and sand it okay so we're back and the ceilings are dry and ready for sanding you can use your little sanding block with a little bit of sandpaper on the bottom of it sanding pad or you've got these little sanding blocks you can get you can see there with the tapered edges you can pick those up from the plasterboard supplier now just a matter starting in the middle and then working your way out to some feather the edges that's dusty work funds it off flush back where it's supposed to be now for a good three months primer to seal that alright so they have a guys one water damaged ceiling repaired so sort of being cutting out plastered and painted it's not really that hard to do so I hope it gives you some inspiration to get out there actually try and tackle the project like this yourself hardest part is probably getting this setting right with the plastering watching YouTube videos a bit of practice and you'll work it out alright if you liked the video give it a thumbs up like and subscribe I'll catch you next time see you guys

Channel: Our Build

Views: 667,817

Keywords: How To Patch A Plaster Board Ceiling, How To Patch Plaster, How To Patch Drywall, How To Repair a Hole In Drywall, How To Repair A Plaster Ceiling, How To Fix A Water Damaged Ceiling, How to Repair Wet Drywall, Wet Plaster Repair, Gyprock Repairs, Drywall Repairs, How To Tips For Plastering, Video Of Plaster Repair, James Mason Builder, Home Improvement Tips, DIY Advice, Sanding Plaster, Painting Plaster, Plastering Tools, Renovation

Id: gTBmVoW8lr8

Length: 14min 5sec (845 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 16 2016