How to repair a hole in ceiling - drywall plasterboard

what's going on guys I'm bill and welcome to Bill's out to the time I'm going to show you guys how to fix a hole in the ceiling so if we have a look up the top here we've got a hole in the ceiling if I poked around the edges it's actually pretty soft so I'm assuming it was previous water damage that's slowly bubbled over time and a given way either way the repair process is going to be exactly the same let's get straight into it boys let's do this alright guys so this is the hole that we're dealing with like I said you can tell here the inside of the drywall plasterboard do block shape whatever it is that you guys want to call it is actually starting to crumble and break away so that's a good indicator that we've had a bit of water come through here at the same time if I poke around the edges you can see it's got little soft sections so if I poke around in here it's actually pretty soft especially around here you can see there it's completely detached so the first thing we're going to do is open this section here up and see how far back the damage actually goes it shouldn't be too hard my finger goes straight through what I'm going to do is just pull apart a little bit to the section here especially where it's really flaky and crumbly you can see that just completely falls apart that bit there's actually pretty solid so I'll just work my way around get a good feel of exactly what's going on in there where this crumbly section stops the size of the hole isn't going to make a difference a repair process is going to be exactly the same and it's actually pretty easy to repair these ceilings we're getting ready to paint all these ceilings and walls in this proper property so I'm just going to quickly go through this one here keep pulling it apart until it no longer wants to break as we've got here so that is all now nice and solid so that's actually the hole that we're working with Neal little bit bigger than what we started with but it doesn't really matter like I said the repair process is going to be exactly the same so I'll just pull apart any of these little sections here and I think that'll just about do it so we've got a nice little hole now up in the ceiling looks a lot worse than what it was initially but this is what's actually involved in order to repair it so now that we've got exactly the area that we need to work on the rest of it's nice and sturdy so we're not too concerned about anything else now I'll show you guys how to fix this alright guys so now that we know exactly how big the area is that we're dealing with with broken away all this blue section here the rest of it is nice and secure what we're gonna do next is take our tape measure now send a lot of people get really caught up on this section here they struggle to cut a piece of drywall or piece of plaster board or to prop whatever it is that you guys want to call it to fit the hole that's not what you're supposed to do what you actually do is cut any kind of piece of drywall as long as it's bigger than the hole then we're gonna cut the hole here to suit our actual piece that we're gonna fill it in with and I'll show you guys what I mean so what we're going to do is take a tape measure this right across roughly how far you want to go so I'm going to take our measurement from the edge here where I've peeled it off all the way back to the other side so we've got here about 260 millimetres and we'll take our width we've got here also 170 so 260 and 170 so something important that you guys should be aware of is the size of your shading now the thickness of your shading is different on your walls and your ceilings if we have a look we've got two scrap pieces here this top one is 10 millimeters thick that's generally useful walls and then we've got the thicker piece which is 30ml now when there is used for your ceiling so we've got two scrap pieces look almost exactly the same except for the thickness so just be careful whenever you're cutting for your ceilings you're using a 13 mil piece of drywall plaster board to Brok sheet so - 71 61 minutes ago roughly and I'll show you guys why in a second so we'll just mark that with maybe I'm lucky we've got a war in the radio - 72 70 across 160 same thing on the top doesn't have to be exact as long as we're cutting that patient that's actually bigger than the area we're working with now we're going to do is take our artillery knife very straightforward we've got our markings all we want to do just cut that paper score the top of it and that's it so we just run out blade all the way down put on it slide give a little tap on the back and that will simply snap right in that position from the back so now we've got our new base cut and ready to go what we're going to do now is transfer the measurement over onto the damaged ceiling so all we're going to do I'm please pop that over the top cover as much of that damaged area as possible that looks pretty good pretty much where it is now and then we're going to take our pencil and just simply trace around the edge once that's done we've now got our marking up on the ceiling ready to be cut out so you can see the area that I've traced around that's pretty much all the area that's going to be cut out what I'm going to use now is my multi-tool and just cut this one here oh you don't have to use a multi tool you can use the utility north scroll around the edge and then snap it and work back slowly you can use a plaster board saw and just cut that through multi sword works nice crisp and clean and very very fast and effective so like I said I'm using a multi-tool [Music] [Music] so now I pretty much cut all this piece there's only a little bit left holding it together and you can say that I've now removed my crappy piece out of the way so now this section he's been completely cut out I've got my filler piece ready to go back in here it's going to have a perfect fit what we need to do now is actually run some timber in on top of this ceiling the reason for that is it provides backing support and it also helps keep the new piece of drywall or plasterboard G brach sheet and nice and flush with the existing ceiling what I'm going to do in this case here is I'm going to run two pieces of timber running straight across so all I have to do is cut two scrap pieces of timber making sure that they're just nice and flush that's pretty much the only criteria that you're going to need and also long enough to make it all the way across so let's get two pieces of scrap pieces of timber so now we've got two scrap pieces of timber like I said as long as they're flat and they're long enough that's all that really matters in this case we're just going to slide them all the way through have them sit nice and flush up against the ceiling I'm going to put in two pieces here and then what I'm going to do is take the couple screws and we're just going to screw those on the outside of the existing drywall gyprock glass the board whatever it is you guys want to call it and that's going to secure our backing plank in place always handy to carry a couple spares in your hand you want to hold on to the piece of timber in order to actually have the screw drive in so you don't push the timber up out of the way same thing on the other side you want to make sure your screws at just below the surface you don't want them sitting flush or protruding at all and so I like to countersink them just a little bit into that drywall gyproc plasterboard now that's all screwing we put our backing plate ready to go and we can install our new piece of I really got to find another way to say this plus the board shape drywall shape your proxy we're going to put our new piece up on top so now we can thank you our new place push them into position and then we'll take our drill and screw that in as well and that should sit nice and perfectly flush so I'm going to do is I'm just going to put two screws in line with those timber pieces that I put in so now the ceilings been patched up we're ready for our joint compound so before we apply our joint compound you can either use fiberglass mesh or paper tape that's a reinforcing system either way whichever one makes you happy that's the one that you should use what I like to use is fiberglass mesh the only time I actually use the paper tape is whatever I'm doing large jobs or complaint shooting so what I want to do first is just take a little scraper take away any of those little imperfections it'll make it a little bit easier 20min and work with and also easier to apply my joint compound so just at least right back now that's ready to go so what I want to do first is I'm going to take my father glass mesh and I'm going to cut my pieces ready to go once I find the end of this same will as joint so roughly get my measurements that's the other benefit of having the adhesive one you can just stick that on the ceiling and we'll get back to that later on why do you this whole ceiling is going to be painted so I'm not too concerned if I've got fingerprint marks or anything like that on here when it comes to your fiberglass mesh in particular try not to overlap your mesh so even if you cut it a little bit shorter it's a lot better than overlapping overlapping is going to make it a lot harder to apply your joint compound it's harder to get a flush and more than likely your joint knife is going to get stuck on it and end up ripping everything off so we just cut these nice and short keep them on the ceiling for later and now I'm going to mix up my joint compound what I'm using in this case is just a quick set so we've got a 10-minute rapidset joint compound and the reason why I'm using that is just to have it dry up a lot quicker now before I actually apply my joint compound and my mesh what I like to do first is just filling this joint with the toilet compound so I've got it completely running all the way through before I actually put on my mesh a lot of people tend to put the mesh on top and then try and smear it through the mesh not a great idea it's a lot easier to just get through these joints and cracks and then after maybe answer my phone so we'll just fill up all these joints first before we actually run our tank pushing and getting it in as far as you can now that we've got that along we can apply our mesh so we'll get a little pieces a mesh that we just hung up on the wall or on the ceiling line them up [Applause] [Applause] and there we can finish patching off our ceiling so just being very careful when you first put it on trying to smear all the version let's all hold it roughly to place now but the first coat not really too concerned on how it goes on we basically just want to talk to holding position fix everything in place and then we'll worry about upon our second and third coat so at the moment we're just kind of skim that all the way across especially because it's a quick set we haven't got much time to a worker so just a little close-up of what Marlin looks like at the moment it's not pretty by any means by remembering this is only the first coat we've still got a second and third coat to go and that's where we're going to do all our perfecting so at the moment this one here is a quick set I've got 10 minutes of work time need to get it on there as quick as possible and let this one here set and then we're going to get back onto it when it comes time for our second and third coat and we're going to be able to perfect that so if you're one at home doesn't look very pretty and you can see the same so you can see the tape underneath don't be too concerned we're going to be able to fix that on our second and third coat so once the first coats completely sink we'll take out joint like and we're just going to run it over the surface removing any of the high spots just a bit easier than standing you might want it a couple of high schools so we just want to quickly get realized then we can take our sander we're using a 120 grit sandpaper and we're just going to give it a quick likes and followed by our second and third coat so this time around we're going to pull out our second coat of compound we're going to go a little bit further than what we initially theeth the first section came up to about here this time around we're gonna go out a little bit further than that and we're gonna try and fit around our compound so we're gonna try and put a little bit more effort this time we're not using it we said it's a topcoat and we're going to go as fine as possible towards smooth out any of those imperfections and balance everything out so we just got to run this all the way across just first get it all on me and then I'll spread that all out [Music] so now that we've got this one here fairly level what I'm going to do is switch over to my bigger mine and I'm going to use the bigger knife to give that nice consistency all the way across this helps get a nice level finish and an important thing to note is that the better job you do at patching the less sanding you're going to have to do so it's worth putting in a little bit more time into your patching to make sure that you don't have to do as much rending especially when up on my ceiling working so what I'm doing is I'm trying to pin that out putting a little bit more pressure on the edge up just to squeeze out that material and try and feather everything else so you can see that I'll actually remove some of the compound that was up on the ceiling and I'll show you guys a close-up of what that looks like so have a closer look up at the top you can see just how much of a better finish that is now we're feathering out the edge so you can see it's very very fine all the way on the edge it's not too much of a concern at the moment because we can still send that off when we come back to our third coat but for the moment this is actually looking pretty good so it's nice flat level smooth surface that we're working with everything's pretty much feathered out it'll just take a very very light sand after this one here sets and then we'll get done on our third color and we should be ready to get started on painting so now the second coat is completely dry we're ready for our third coat it honestly looks pretty good at the moment if I really wanted to I could leave it on the second coat and not go through the final coat however because it is a ceiling I want to make sure that I offended that up just a little bit more so I'm going to give it one last scene just a light chain will do it [Applause] we just get all the product on there then we use the big annoyed and flatten everything out spread it out nice and consistent so now we'll switch over to the bigger knife and we can use that to flatten everything you know make sure we feather our edges now we'll let this one here dry once again once it's ready give it our final sand and we're ready for painting oh my gosh how the third coat is finally dry it's now time for our final send once it's said that what we're going to do is simply paint it now usually what you do in this case is apply a primer before painting especially on this patched area here but in my case I'm using a paint and prime ceiling paint now so I have to apply the primer separately but like I said just a quick sense that's all it takes me off and I'll show you guys a close-up but I said this is a close-up of the finished patched area so the reason why we've spread it out so far is to simply blend it in and that's what the most important thing is to just feather your edges so you can say all the way around it is a feathered that's what's going to give us our perfect transition so now I'm going to get straight into painting and I'll see you guys in a bit all right guys once it's been primed and painted this is the finished product so it's a very simple straightforward procedure hopefully now after watching this video you can get out there and do some of the repairs yourself if you have any concerns or questions put them in the comment section below as always guys like comment and subscribe until next time I'm bill thanks for watching Bill there too

Channel: Billshowto

Views: 768,476

Keywords: how to fix a hole in the ceiling, hole in ceiling, repair, diy, fix, how to, how to repair, patching drywall, patch, hole, wall, ceiling, drywall, drywall repair, gyproc, how to patch a hole in drywall, water damage, how to fix a hole in drywall, drywall ceiling repair, water leak, how to patch, repairing drywall holes, damaged, how to fix drywall, how to patch drywall, joint compound, mudding, how to fix hole in ceiling, patch drywall, repair drywall, home repair, drywall hole repair

Id: ZsDKL0jP4_s

Length: 18min 52sec (1132 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 02 2020