How to Quickly Remove Internal Weld Seams from Steel Tubing

well hello there and thanks for checking out next level carpentry you know i'm really excited about doing this video because i want to reveal two things to you and the first thing that i want to announce is that this video is a prequel to the long-awaited outfeed roller stand video that i've promised what i'll show you is one aspect of that build and i want to show it to you as a stand-alone process because its use and application goes far beyond what will be shown in this single roller stand build video and the second thing i'll show you is resolution of the little teaser i put in at the end of the end of the end of the last video where i gave you a shot of this cool tool regardless of some of the comments i got on that video this has nothing to do with alien space probes but it has everything to do with metal fabrication in general and the roller stand build video in particular and what you're seeing here being revealed to the world of makers everywhere for the first time ever is a tool that i've named the seems impossible internal weld seam removing tool i invented and created this tool to quickly cut out the internal weld seam from the inside of square steel tubing so the two closely fitting pieces will sleeve together like this this one is the first one ever created and i'll show you in a few minutes exactly how you can make one just like it out of wood this version works great but make sure you watch the video to the end to see a new and approved version 2.0 build out of billet aluminum with a cnc that looks amazing and works as good as it looks version 2.0 is designed to be adaptable to any size square tube inch and a quarter od or bigger for one size fits all versatility how cool is that i take credit for inventing and making version 1.0 but credit for version 2.0 goes to greg porter of greg's garage his channel is on youtube and he's responsible for most of the improved fit finish and features of this version 2.0 and i'll introduce you to greg later in the video when we talk more about this amazing little tool and i'll link to a video greg did for his channel where he shows his ample cnc milling shops while making this new and improved version we'll also give you some exciting information about a pre-order arrangement we've put together if you can't or don't want to make one like we're going to show you so stay tuned for that and now i'm going to give you some background information so you understand the problem that this tool solves and why it matters and you can skip ahead to the time stamps shown here if you want to jump right into the build part watch the tool in action or if you just can't wait to meet greg if you're still with me i'll start by explaining that when something like these roller stands are being manufactured the various materials and components are specified for each individual part so everything works together as designed adjustable parts that need to have a slip fit like this height adjustment can be mass-produced with accurate tolerances so they function properly and the pieces that slip fit together like this for telescoping action are said to sleeve together in order for two pieces to sleeve together snug enough to be stable but loose enough to slip smoothly without sticking during adjustments the inside dimension of the outer piece and the outside dimension and inner piece have to fit properly seems simple enough right but as you might suspect it isn't and any maker that attempts to find two pieces that sleeve together like this quickly realizes there's a problem the material i use for these out speed roller stands is inch and a quarter od square tube with nominal eighth inch thick walls which should have an internal dimension of one inch square right right theoretically a piece of one inch square od tubing should slip inside for a sleeve fit right again not so fast the problem you run into is that while the inside dimension of the tube is just slightly over one inch square there's an internal weld seam to deal with you can see that the smaller tube does indeed fit nicely inside the larger tube but the weld seam protrudes just enough that the two pieces don't have a sleeve fit with each other and that's because the weld effectively reduces the clear inside dimension to one inch by 15 16 which is clearly too small to fit and is a deal breaker when makers run into this problem they usually figure how tough can it be set about filing chiseling or grinding to remove the weld it's not impossible to do a short piece or two up to a few inches long but results are slow frustrating and marginal at best anything longer than three inches or so becomes exponentially problematic the most common work around for the problem is to use an outer tube with a thinner wall thickness so that the resulting inside size measuring from the weld is a bit over one inch by one and a sixteenth inches these dimensions allow the pieces to sleeve but it's a sloppy fit like this you can see that's what i did on my original version 1.0 outfit roller stands and you can see the wobble and the height adjustment here i've been working on this dilemma for a few months now trying to come up with a practical way to remove that stubborn internal weld for a better sleeving fit for the upcoming version 2.0 roller stand build video series a quick youtube search for videos that show how to remove that internal weld brings up a few do-able but rather crude methods for getting the job done i'll add links to these alternate methods in the video description for you if you're curious the first method is to just grind a groove in one face of the internal tube so that it clears the weld inside the outer tube if i were recommending this groove method which i'm not i would first mark the weld location on the outside of the outer tube and then transfer that weld location mark to one face of the smaller inner tube then i would notch a block of scrap wood so that its offset edge lines up with the groove that i want to make and the outside face of the smaller tube and then i'd clamp the tube to the block and use the edge of that block of wood as a guide for an eighth inch cut off wheel in an angle grinder to quickly grind a groove of the right depth in the right location for this method after grinding i run a file over the face and the rough ground edges to remove the little micro burs on there and then you can see that i get a functional but crude sleeving fit of these two pieces it works but i don't like it because it limits the two tubes to one orientation plus it's not a next level solution in my humble opinion and if the inner tube is flipped and for end the groove no longer lines with the weld and the sleeve fit doesn't work that way either another method i found involves making a custom ground piece of tool steel and then basically driving it down through the outer tube with a hammer to scrape away or broach the weld to remove it again it's functional but both a crude approach and a crude end result the third approach i found was using a similar piece of tool steel but with it connected to a piece of all thread that when turned with an impact wrench gets drawn through the tube again relying on a scraping action to remove a non-centered weld this method would be difficult to achieve on a small size tube like this because the weld seam is centered in one face of the tubing causing clearance issues there's links to these videos in the video description so you can see the technique i'm crudely trying to demonstrate here so for a cleaner faster and repeatable process that is capable of removing weld from tubes of any length whether the weld seam is centered or not i figured a grinding or cutting action would be required true is that is it's doable with short pieces of tubing because you can reach in and grind out the weld from both ends it's not pretty but it is doable i don't know about you but the way my mind works is that once i get a conundrum like this stuck in my head it's difficult to let it rest until i come up with a solution that i'm happy with after some pondering what first came to mind is this set of solid carbide burrs which are capable of cutting weld but are difficult to keep in position for the cutting action required the light bulb moment was when the idea of using bearings to hold the cutter in position within a snug fitting block of wood could solve the problem it took a bit of detailed designing to refine the apparatus for functionality but i think you'll agree when you see this in operation that it's an elegant solution for this age-old problem i made my seams impossible version 1.0 specifically for the inch and a quarter od square tube with its nominal eighth inch thick walls that i use for the roller stand height adjustment tube i realized that it would take a carbide burr with a larger diameter than the half inch size i already had to make the required one thirty second inch oversized cut to remove the internal weld cleanly and completely an online search led me to this three quarter inch diameter solid carbide ball burr with its long shank that had all the specs needed for the seems impossible tool to work a bit extension or two or three like this are needed for long pieces of tubing and the diameter of the connecting end determines the outside diameter of bearings needed to hold the spinning burr so i chose ones from my router bit accessory kit with an id of one quarter inch and an od of 5 8 of an inch once i had the initial concept and all the required components it was just a matter of making a block with the right dimensions for the whole concept to work with all that background in mind it's time to start making so let's i plan to use solid brass for my prototype but couldn't find it locally so i started with a block of maple instead i straightened ripped and thickness planed the block until i got a snug but not tight fit on the inside of the inch and a quarter od square tubing next i routed the corners off the block using an eighth inch round over bit to allow clearance for the rounded inside corners of the square tube next i cut a piece two inches long that needs to be laid out for a series of concentric holes to make sure i remove the entire weld seam and then some i want to end up cutting one thirty second of an inch out of the inside wall of the square tube in the process of cutting the weld away the burr is 3 4 inch od which is 6 8 of an inch which is 12 16 of an inch which is 24 30 seconds of an inch in diameter or 12 30 seconds of an inch radius so for a 1 32nd inch deep cut bit needs to be centered in the width of the end of my maple block and just 11 30 seconds from one edge which will leave one thirty second of an inch protruding coming up with a dimension that way is like one commenter said going around my elbow to get to my thumb so if you didn't follow the process i'm marking this one thirty second of an inch less than three eighths of an inch from the edge of the block and i find it much easier to locate these holes on the drill press when i drive the tip of this needlepoint desco pro scratch all into the crosshair marks on the end grain of this wooden block after carefully marking the center on both ends of the maple block i go to the drill press and i drill a 5 8 inch diameter hole one quarter inch deep from one end of the block and another 5 8 inch diameter hole one and a half inches deep from the other end of the block these two opposing holes leave a quarter inch thick wood web to separate the bearings which holds everything together during use the accuracy of laying this out on wood and drilling with the drill press from two different directions leaves a lot to be desired but it is all accurate enough to work for this application but it's also inaccurate enough to explain the reason why i contacted greg of greg's garage to do this professionally with a cnc next using the center of one of the 5 8 inch holes as a guide i chase it through with a 9 64 inch bit for the burst shank to pass through that slight amount of extra diameter just assures clearance for the shank of the burr i believe i missed spoke earlier i'll use a 17 64 inch drill bit to chase through the 5 8 inch holes for clearance for the burr shaft finally i run the seams impossible block over the table saw blade to center up a 1 16 inch deep 3 32 inch wide mini dado to the face of the block to allow clearance for the weld because the block passes through the tube before the weld is cut off and the last thing i need to do is widen the slot on the bit extension side of the block to provide access to the allen wrench that's required to tighten the bit extension screws and i clean up the end of that access slot with a little rat tail file to make it look professional it ain't no cnc but hey it's gonna work great and there it is then seems impossible version 1.0 serial number zero zero zero two now i just push a bearing into each end of the block until it hits that small dividing web push the burr shaft in from the short end slip the extension over the shank from the other end and tighten the set screws and if you have alignment issues like i'm having here just carefully run a quarter inch drill bit through the center holes of the two bearings to get everything to line up all hunky-dory and that's yet another argument for the value of cnc machining for making this instead of a drill press in a cabinet shop you might have to grind a smidge off the set screws so they don't stick out so far that the extension won't turn in the block all i did was just fire up the drill and let the rotation of the extension rub away the little bit of wood that it needs for clearance and a quick word of advice from experience clamp your sieve's impossible block in a vise before you spin it for the first time so that the spinning screw heads don't cause the block to blow out and leave you starting over and you can see that the spinning action of the bit extension in the block wears away a little bit of wood that was rubbing on those set screw heads giving it nice clearance for smoother operation the last touch i'll put on this little block before putting it to use is give it a heavy coat of paste wax which will help it slide a little better inside the tube i think that's everything you need to know to make your very own version 1.0 seems impossible internal weld seam removing tool and now i'm going to show you what it looks like in action oh yeah when everything's laid out accurately and done correctly the cutting face of the burr extends that one thirty second of an inch beyond the cutting face of the seams impossible block it's hard to see in the camera here but this rolling action on the work surface shows that the cutting face of the bur is indeed extending beyond the face of the block if the burr would spin free above the work surface top at this point then you won't get the overcutting action desired for a smoother sleeving fit of the tube and this is the key feature of the seems impossible tool that it cuts the entire weld away plus a little bit more by leaving a nice clean machined finish on the inside of the tube for its entire length to use this seems impossible just clamp your piece of square tubing in a vise at a downward angle this helps clear chips as they're cut and prevent jamming next orient the slot with the weld and slip the extension through the tube and chuck a drill to it i like to add a few drops of coot neural to the burr to reduce heat and extend its useful life run the drill at a slow to medium speed while pulling the tool through the fluid blow out loose chips as you go if necessary and add more oil if needed because the cut is made as the tool is being pulled when the block comes out the far end of the tube reverse the tube and reverse the cutter to finish up the last little bit of weld seam by pulling the tool through in the opposite direction when you're done cutting the weld out of a tube push a rag or towel through the tube with a stick to remove stray and stubborn particles assuming the bit and bearing holes are drilled accurately one pass through a tube is all that's needed for a flawless sleeve fit think that's faster better and easier than pounding or pulling a blunt force tool through to scrape the weld off yeah me too as good as the version 1.0 seems impossible tool is at removing internal welds it just gets better with version 2.0 looking close at this version 2.0 you can see the same configuration cnc milled into a three-quarter by three-quarter chunk of aluminum the one i have here is an early prototype that has all the final features of the version 2.0 but the production models will have the classy orange anodized finish you see on these sweet layout squares and by the way these cnc machined layout squares are already made and for sale through greg's garage website and you can check those out through the same links in the video description i'll have more on that in a minute but i'm going to push pause here for a second and say that if you like the original content you're seeing here in this video i'll ask that you consider subscribing to next level carpentry if you haven't already it's free you know and as a subscriber you'll be notified each time a new video like this is uploaded so that you can be one of the first ones to see it after it rolls out if you think this video is punch worthy go ahead and punch that thumbs up button while you're at it so that the quants over there at youtube know that i'm not asleep at the switch over here on the next level carpentry channel there's a link to amazon in the video description and that takes you to a list of most of the tools and supplies that you would need to build a seems impossible tool of your own as an influencer amazon pays small ad fees to next level carpentry that help offset the cost of video production here on the channel so i always appreciate it a lot of the tools and stuff that you see here are available locally so just use the amazon as a last resort if you can't find it locally or you're on lockdown and unable to get out and shop like you normally would as always there's a link to teespring in the video description in case you want to sport one of these next level carpentry t-shirts this one's got my favorite saying on it and uh you can also get stickers posters and signs from around the shop through that link and those sales help support video production here at the channel too so i appreciate that as well and even though no starbond ca glue products were used in the making of this video i don't want you to miss out on the exclusive fifteen percent off discount code that next level carpentry viewers get just by watching videos here on the channel so uh follow the link in the video description below and enter special offer code nlc at checkout from the starbond website and you can score that discount on any of the great glue products that they have for sale there they're great products it's a great company and i think that's a pretty great deal so check it out and now let's get back to the video where you'll learn all about the benefits and features of the version 2.0 seems impossible block and how to make one of your own or how to get one if you're interested so let's go the key feature of the seems impossible version 2.0 is that it's adaptable because the main part of the tool is made out of metal it has really tight tolerances so that virtually anything that this tool can fit inside it can you can cut the weld seam out of it naturally the bigger the tube the simpler that is and it can even work on a rectangular piece like this provided this tool fits inside that profile and the way it accomplishes that universal design is by making a sleeve or a jacket to go around the metal that makes up the difference in the space between the size of the metal block and the size of the tube that you're removing the weld from the jacket can be made out of any number of things the high density plastic is probably the best for a a long run of this if you have to do a lot of parts but for these it's simple to make that jacket out of a piece of wood i've got a couple of scraps here that i'll make jackets for for these and my advice when making a jacket because the pieces are so thin and so small is to start very big so your fingers are clear out of the way until the very last part i'm not going to go through the details again here but i use the same joining ripping and thickness planing process to get the blanks down to size for the bigger profiles i'll just make the blank fit for the smaller profile i'll add one extra step because the pieces end up so delicate and small and i don't want to get my pinkies in that close to the blade when making those parts after a few minutes of milling i've now got a block of maple that fits snugly inside each one of these tubes i put that micro dado in one face of each of these blocks to clear the weld seam so you can see these slipping in and out of their respective tubes you can easily imagine that at this stage to build a version 1.0 seems impossible block it would just be a matter of cutting a two inch piece of the block then locating and drilling the same holes as the one done previously in the video the exception with these blocks at this stage is that the blank i made for making a jacket for the seems impossible version 2.0 for the inch and a quarter square tube is much larger than necessary for the finished jacket that i'll make in this process i leave the block oversized intentionally as a safety factor for milling the three-quarter by three-quarter dado in one edge of the block for the smaller tube the milled cnc block of the version 2.0 seems impossible tool is exactly three-quarters of an inch square so all that's involved in making these jackets is to plow a three quarter by three quarter dado in the edge of the block where the weld seam notch is centering the dado up on the weld seam so that the tool cuts the weld out as it's pulled through the tube again the exception is the inch and a quarter square tube where i'm milling the dado in the edge of the block instead of one of the faces that's just a technical difference but as you'll see doing it this way makes the whole process safer obviously all these dados are the same depth so i'll put a mark three quarters of an inch up on the face of one of these blocks and use that to set the blade height and lock it in dados are typically made with a dado blade stack or a dado blade set but for these dadoes i'm just using an eighth inch kerf flat type grind ripping blade and the reason is is because these blocks are relatively small and it takes a fair amount of pushing force for plowing the whole three-quarter inch dado in one pass so i'm gaining a large measure of safety and sacrificing only a small bit of time so the trade-off is well worth it i use a rule to center up the three-quarter inch dado in the face of the block where there's a slot for the weld clearance i want this dado to be snug fitting on the seams impossible block so i'll start a little bit shy on the width of the dado and then dial it in with a test fit of the actual block and now let's see if the camera can stay in focus as i make six successive cuts an eighth inch wide three quarters of an inch deep to plow the three quarter by three-quarter dado i'm after and as i'm making these cuts i'm mindful of the fact that it's the two outside cuts that matter most because of their location and if i make seven passes instead of six that's not going to be a problem and there's nothing to get anxious about here because as long as the slot is snug it doesn't matter if it's so precisely set it up over that weld slot i'm sure it could vary by a sixteenth of an inch one way or the other and still cut the whole weld out so i'm not stressing about that part looks like i've got about another 16th of an inch to go this mark looks lined up well that one's got a little room to go so i'll widen the dado this way how's that for a guess folks that will do nicely i may have this groove just ever so slightly too deep but it'll be very simple to add a thin piece of paper for a shim in the top to hold the block in place if necessary and with the rotation test you can see that that slot is too deep because the bit spins freely above the table top instead of digging into the top as i turn it i lowered the blade exactly three frog hairs before locating and plowing the dados in the other blocks [Music] by making that small height adjustment i'm able to get the perfect fit that i'm after for this block and i won't need a shim to make it work the jacket for the rectangular tube is a little tricky because the block is only 7 8 of an inch thick so it gets a little fragile when making the dado and i've got to pay special attention to the height of the blade coming out the back of the block because an oversight there is just an accident waiting to happen i made this slot ever so slightly wide but as you'll see the screws that hold the seams impossible into the jacket will compensate for that without any trouble as you can see by the jacket profile that i've sketched in on the end of this block this jacket is more dado than jacket which is why i left it in this bigger piece of wood i've got a big piece to hang on to while cutting the dado and then i can much more safely rip the jacket free of this bigger block than i can plowing a dado in a small block to start off with and because the dado is centered in the edge of this block because the weld is centered in the face of the tube i can just flip the block end for end and set the fence half as many times to center up the dado in the edge of the block and i got a good fit on that it's slightly loose but that's okay the screws will hold it tight in place and because the sides of this jacket are so skinny they're barely an eighth of an inch having a zero clearance throat insert plate on a table saw makes this all a lot more possible because that zero clearance insert keeps that skinny leg of the jacket from dropping down in next to the blade and getting hung up while i'm making these successive cuts and now to rip this jacket from the bigger block safely i'll double check that the whole jacket blank is parallel and then cut the jacket off as scrap leaving the solid piece of lumber between the blade and the fence in other videos i've talked about the importance of sequence in millwork carpentry and working in the shop and this is a perfect example it's outside the box thinking to cut the piece as scrap but in this case it makes the whole thing workable smart and safe and it's easy at this stage to run that 8 inch round over bit along the corners to finish up this jacket and as they say in real estate it's all about location location location well in millwork it's often about sequence sequence sequence drilled and tapped holes in the seams impossible 2 block allow for attaching it to the jacket that corresponds to the size of tubing you're working on uh there's two holes that go from the top to the bottom they go all the way through and there's ones that go in through the side as well those are drilled and tapped and the idea is to attach the tool to about a two inch long piece of jacket material for removing the weld but because the tool is so new we're still developing best practices and i've noticed with the fact that it's pretty easy to make these jackets in long pieces that i suspect that it'll be just as easy to use the tool by sliding the jacket in full length and then just pulling the tool through that jacket rather than attach the jacket to the tool time will tell if that's a good idea or not but for now i'm going to go ahead and attach this to this 2x2 jacket just to show you how that procedure works and in case i forget to mention it the screw holes are tapped for an 8 32 thread and i've got a selection of different lengths here depending on how far through the jacket i choose to go with those screws here as we can tell the length of the jacket really doesn't matter but we suspect that about two inches long is the sweet spot once the jacket is cut just clamp it in a vise slip the seams impossible block into the jacket and then chase through the two holes with an eighth inch drill bit this locates the holes on the other side of the block when the screws are driven in once the holes are piloted choose a screw length that works good with the thickness of the jacket you're working with and then give it a depth mark for a counter bore so the screw heads can clear in this case where the jacket material is thick the counter bore holes diameter isn't all that crucial but the depth is kind of important so pay attention to that next remove the tool from the jacket and chase through the piloted hole with a larger bit so that the screw shank clears i'm using an 11 64 inch bit for this one the socket head cap screws i have have a 332nd inch hex head drive in them and i'll use a t-handle wrench to attach the block to the jack and now the jacket is firmly attached to the seams and possible block and there's really nothing new or surprising here using a seams impossible 2 for removing a weld i just checked the piece of tube in the vise line up the tool add cutting oil and give it a go and i have to pay attention to the weld location because in this size tube the weld is off center so i have to make sure the groove in the block and the cutter line up accordingly and i'm not sure if you can see it but i didn't get as much over cut on this tube as i'm looking for and i also don't know if that's important because it depends on how tight of a sleeving fit you get with a smaller size tube i did a second pass on this 2x2 tubing and i put a little up pressure on the drill to put a little down pressure on the cutter and that little adjustment gave me the 132nd of an inch overcut i was after in the first place because the weld seam is offset i can't just pull the tool in from the other end to remove the little bit of weld at the other end of the tube like i did with the smaller tubing but that could be ground out if it was necessary and i'm sure you could achieve the same thing by adding shims between the block and the jacket but that would make it harder to pull through the tube so maybe this is a better solution and i think time and experience will tell for the sake of experimentation and curiosity i'll try to cut the weld seam out of the rectangular block by using a stationary jacket and pulling the seams impossible tool through it i'm kind of thinking that this might be the go-to method for relatively short pieces of tube just because it saves the trouble of piloting counter-boring and screwing the jacket to the block and i quickly learned that got to make sure that the extension is firmly chucked to the cutter or it'll come off in the process i'm getting some remarkable cutting action there so this idea has merit i think it's just cool to see that whole weld seam piled up in the bottom of the jacket as a little pile of shavings sweet and it looks like an added benefit of pulling the tool through the jacket allows the cut to be made all the way out the back end of the tube to save an extra step of grinding there at the end and i guess that leaves just one more example which is the 3x3 tube so let's see how this works with the stationary jacket method this jacket fits a little sloppy in that tube so the results might not be quite as good let's see and i'll just turn the tube over so you can kind of see this in action and it makes a little easier to add oil to the cutter just like that one 10 inch long internal weld seam reduced to shavings easy peasy well i gotta say i am completely satisfied with the performance of the seems impossible to tool having the bearings firmly set in a piece of metal rather than having them bouncing around a little bit in a block of maple is definitely worth the extra effort to get that done i really like having a jacket that's the length of the tube and just pulling the tool through the jacket saves the messing around with pilot holes but for uh repetitive work uh the movable jacket is a good idea this could be made out of that high density plastic possibly if uh you found yourself in a situation where you needed to do this numerous times a day or a week that might be a better solution but with all that done you get a pretty good idea of what the seems impossible is capable of and the features are the seems impossible too i'm not really sure how this will all fit into the video but at the beginning i promised that i would introduce you to greg porter of greg's garage on youtube i first met greg he commented on a couple of live premiere videos made a couple comments on some videos at next level carpentry i went and checked out greg's garage his channel on youtube which is just one small portion of the world that is greg porter he's an amazingly talented guy and just an all-around good guy and i want you to meet him i'm excited to introduce you to him and i will tell you right now though that when you're done with this video you gotta go check out greg's garage the first video he has is like his title video is uh called the bleep that welders say and it's got welder jargon in there but it's tastefully done and it is flat out hilarious if you know anything about the world of welding even if you don't you get an idea of uh some of the cut up that those guys can come up with so got to go check that out on greg's garage but with no further ado i want to introduce you to my new friend greg porter greg's an architect and runs a youtube channel he's a musician he's a cnc machinist all that kind of stuff and it's been a pleasure to work with him on this project so i asked greg if he would add a few comments say a few words about our project and he won't ask you to but i'll ask you to check out his channel check out his world there's a lot going on there it's pretty great so i'm done yettering next level carpentry audience meet mr greg porter of greg's garage hey greg hey matt and hello to the next level carpentry nation thanks for popping into the video here thanks for having me it's been an absolute blast working on this project with you it's always so much fun to combine metal working and machining and woodworking and see what pops out the other side i appreciate y'all you've done for me and for this project it's been my pleasure matt working through multiple design iterations to arrive at a solution that actually does something is my favorite thing to do and you've been such a wonderful teammate through the whole process thanks for sharing a few words with myself and the audience here thanks matt and to the next level carpentry audience i hope you enjoy the videos now that you've met greg i'll tell you that you can watch the live premiere of his video showing the cnc process for making a seems impossible 2 block on his greg's garage channel on youtube just follow the link in the video description below and it'll take you to that video naturally these sequential live premiere videos are a one-time event but you can always follow that link to watch his video that shows the fascinating cnc process for making that little block the precision and accuracy of a cnc machine in action uh is always amazing to me i'm excited to announce that there's also a link to greg's web store in the video description or you can buy a seems impossible tool of your own if you don't want to make one either out of aluminum or wood on that web page the tool is available either as a complete setup like this with everything you need to start removing internal weld seams or you can buy it as just a bare tool if you want to provide your own burr and extension and the other various hardware because this video is produced on a specific date and time always refer to that webpage for current information for pricing availability etc for the seems impossible tool because information there will reflect any changes that occur over time since neither gregor myself have any idea what the demand or response for this tool is going to be based on this release of this video we thought that a pre-sale arrangement was the best way to go forward details of that are on greg's webstore page but basically that pre-sale is going to run from august 22nd through september 7th 2020. we set the introductory pricing at 40 bucks for the bare tool and 150 bucks for the complete set just as you see it here it's all ready to use as long as you provide a few drops of kootenairel to make it run more smoothly and last a little bit longer as you might suspect pricing and availability of the tool after the pre-sale is subject to change without notice but we don't expect it to fluctuate significantly from the pre-sale pricing arrangements i want to wrap up the video with a shout out to the patrons of next level carpentry listed here everyone on this list goes above and beyond to help support production of videos like this with content that's completely unique to youtube and they do that by signing up as patrons through patreon if you're motivated to see your name on a list like this in future videos just follow the link in the video description below and sign up as a patron at whatever level you're comfortable with as patrons to the next level carpentry channel you'll have access to a growing library of patron only videos that i'm assembling there and you have access to them just by becoming a patron i recently uploaded episode number seven of the master your joiner series where i showed how to make precision bevels on a joiner and uh this little mock up here is the result of that video project and along with other episodes in that series you'll learn how to get your joiner to perform at the next level so if you're interested uh go ahead and follow that link and check it out as always i really appreciate the extra support of this group of folks now i've got to quit gathering on so you can jump over to greg's garage channel on youtube to see the live premiere of the video that he did showing the amazing cnc process for making the seems impossible tool so as always until next time thanks for watching are you wondering how to go about planing perfect parts for a pentagon on a joiner that seems impossible too

Channel: Next Level Carpentry

Views: 469,586

Rating: 4.9272199 out of 5

Keywords: seam, weld, weld seam, seem, square, steel, tube, tubing, grind, file, cut, shave, broach, melt, torch, cutting, sleeve, fit, internal, external, pipe, toob, slide, piping, ridge, bead, adjust, adjustable, adjustible, sleeving, adjustment, locking, height, length

Id: ozSE7Wrdb1o

Length: 39min 6sec (2346 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 22 2020