How to paint DARK ANGELS - Space Marine Painting Tutorial

today i'm going to teach you how to paint the armor on this dark angel and yes those edge highlights are done with 100 dry brush welcome to another artists opus video we have a dark angel hotly requested this is a super adaptable technique today i'm using contrast paints and dry brushing and yeah as i said already those edge highlights are done just with the dry brush so using some really specific techniques here we've dropped down we're using the smaller brushes and there is one stage which you can use to customize your model entirely whether you want a darker dark angel or a lighter one or you want to take this and apply it to a salamander or just take the technique in general and apply it to any space stream whether that be green blue yellow whatever so uh the keystones of this are a weird base coat where we've mixed in purple and then the one thing that you can change is there's a wash stage where you can either use a green a super dark green even a black or a purple and all of those will help you achieve a super like varied result and then you just finish it and do the details and you've got a customized archangel in whichever way you'd like so if you like the video please give it a like please hit that subscribe button really does mean a lot to us we are approaching 20 000 subs that is super exciting do expect a giveaway when we hit that 20k and if you've got any comments or suggestions do pop them down below we'll take all of them on board they really do uh keep us going and they really inform our future content all right as per normal we have our space marine here all of his parts have been pressed on they've not been glued on backpack arms and head is on a stick this is all to make painting things separately a little bit easier so if for example we wanted to be able to get that helmet there we could just take the arm off to get better access in it that type of thing it will make your job a lot easier with the painting time for the first step now you can do this with an airbrush or you can do it with a normal brush or you can do it with a dry brush so how i'm going to be base coating this guy is with a kind of smooshing stippling or however you want to put it here it doesn't matter how you do this just make sure that you get good all-over coverage so rather than approaching it with the normal um kind of calibration green we're actually doing here is we're mixing nagaroth night which is a very dark purple with warp stone which is going to be one of our highlight colors and that is mixing us up a kind of a very very deep uh slightly cooler version of the green that we'll be using on the rest of the model so to get a decent base coat with stippling is pretty much as you'd expect you can combine it with stippling and smooshing and uh just make sure you get all the model you don't want to be getting it with too thick a coat and any areas that have been missed with your priming and the recesses it's really really important to fill those in especially on these guys because otherwise you'll end up with blue recesses that makes no sense whatsoever if you are using uh a brush brush do feel free to kind of pull the bits off in order to be able to get into the recesses it is a really important part to make sure that there aren't any weird colors going on there in the shadows because it it doesn't help kind of a paint schemes overall impression if you've got blue bits in particular poking through now i'm using a small hair because we're looking to be pretty precise i'm also jumping up quite aggressively in color the reason for that is that with this uh we're going to be using quite an aggressive dark wash um a lot of you are probably going to be fairly familiar with the game's workshop take on it using bada black or other pretty strong colors like that to kind of keep the keep the dark angels in the lower deeper end of the green spectrum i am doing a very general pretty soft um in terms of the pressure all over dry brush with the green on this guy now we're looking to hit pretty much every single part of it and don't uh it's dry brushing rather than stippling and we're just looking to buff this right up now interestingly this next step which i'm using a huge wash brush for which is a size 4. you could use pretty much anything here i know that sounds weird but you could be using a purp at this stage you could be using a black you could be using a dark green like i am literally using dark angels green you could mix another contrast like orc flesh with the purple it really doesn't matter too much you're basically looking to darken what you've done already so black green or purple all of those would work absolutely perfectly and whatever you do it doesn't matter particularly what it does on the raised areas it's more what it does the recesses because we are going to be giving this a another stage so i've got some medium and some dark angels green here if you do have dark angels green you've probably got something that looks like that really do shake it a lot it separates quite heavily and uh what i'm doing here is i'm putting down a pretty thin layer you can see i've already tested it on another one of his legs i'm putting down a pretty thin layer of the contrast paint so what i tend to do is start somewhere where it goes on quite heavily i work pretty fast i always drag it towards the recesses and then i will use that point of the model as kind of my palette basically and remove it until i'm happy with the amount that is in that one area if you want them darker and more desaturated add in a little bit of black or even use black if you want them more vibrant use purple or add in some purple and if you want them true straight green then you've got dark angels green or any other washes so we've actually given this guy two of the previous step two of those coats all over we want to be careful here because this and the salamander scheme are actually very very close to each other so our edging uh is where we're going to be concentrating this green which is the only green review so far and as a result i'm removing quite a lot of it and this is going to be a very soft specific and delicate application of it so you're only really looking to hit the edges but it should be very very easy given how dark the bases that you're working from so hopefully you can see here just gently buffing it every single edge i'm going to be across not up and down and that should give me a pretty decent amount of control okay so we're moving on to the next step we are about to add in moot green to what we're doing here we've just been concentrating on these edges for that dark angels feel and obviously moot green is quite a big step up from warp stone so what we're going to be doing is taking a little of each mix them carefully together testing them very important we don't want excess of any of this and then these points here are going to be concentrated on basically edge highlighting our edge highlights so you can concentrate them towards edges you could hit every edge it's entirely up to you exactly what approach you want to go for with this if you have a rounded area like the top of this knee pad you could just be hitting the top bit that would be catching the light like i'm doing here all up to you now what this will do is um just by merit of being next to something this bright also feel free to pop your mini off the base if that makes it easier to catch toes and stuff like that all right so we are at the stage where we're going to be using pure moot green or um semi pure if we're using a brush that we previously had the warp stone glow on i however i'm going to jump to our extra small which is our teeny tiny dry brush and the reason for doing that is uh you have the option to highlight sections within a section on these edges so if we take this knee for an example i've already done this a little bit i'm using the light from my lamp to suggest where i should be highlighting here and that is going to dictate where these precise edge highlights go only looking for edges not looking for buffing panels or anything like that it's up to you you can cover all of the areas in green um absolutely fine no downside to doing that i'm going to try and be a little bit more specific so areas kind of like this gorget here or whatever i can choose to pick uh just the central section okay so on to detailing i've got some of the dark angels green contrast i've mixed in a little bit of vallejo 950 black and for one of our detailing steps and this is completely optional it's just a little bit of icing on the cake as far as contrast is concerned um i am going to be taking my brush and just running it down the recesses with this mix involved this is just going to give us some harder contrast against those edge highlights and keep the recesses shaded and there's a couple of areas where you have little panel details or whatever and just get a little bit of a high level of contrast on now if your guy's got a helmet obviously this uh isn't required but uh this guy is unhelmeted and i get told off when i give my guy a helmet on the belt and a helmet on his head i am i'm not a massive fan of uh fleshy heads on space screens but let's see how this goes so what i've got here is a mix of word bearers red and screaming skull that's my base coat and then i'm just gonna be using screaming skull from above my second step there we go now a couple of washes and a little bit of highlighting and he'll be good i've got word bearers right on my palette i'm gonna grab a little bit of lamy medium you can use whatever medium you like thing if you don't have an airbrush i just mix a higher proportion of screaming skull in your first coat and get a nice flat base coat on this is the wash that is going to kind of push the contrast on this a little bit too much there but as normal what we can do is the area where we first had our wash we can pull from that and then while the wash is drying we've got a fair bit of time with the lamy medium go in there clean our brush and remove and kind of redistribute our wash as we see fit and then it's just a matter of highlighting with screaming skull with a little bit of the brow mixed in and then pure screaming skill and we're good i thought i would pick up here for the detailing stages everything has just been given a flat coat um the silver is below gamer silver plus valet 950 black that's a favorite combo of mine you can see it mixed here into the palette rather than using a darker silver i just use a really good silver make it darker and then we've used these three for the details those have all been washed the gold has been washed with the word bear as red now the reason for that is i want to take it down but i also want to keep it super warm and i really want the gold to be a uh a proper central attention grabber within the middle of this model the gold has been dotted around we've got it on the eagle the skull on the bullet it's on his helmet here stuff like that so there's a nice spread of gold around the model and then details why is the only other color that's been used is screaming skull here so let's rock on with the detailing i'm going to be using a double zero essay so i've got a special that i use for metallics and let's uh let's get on with this insignia on his chest plate okay so for the first highlight i'm just going to be using a little retributer plus a tiny touch of our silver now the silver is an incredibly potent metallic it is completely overpowering so if you want something that looks like it's 50 50 you're probably gonna have to use maybe even four parts gold to one part silver just to get something that kind of approximately looks even close to that now with details like this the angle is really important so i've removed his arms because they're just gonna get in the way you could just give these a retreat a base coat and then a quick wash it's entirely up to you i'm going to spend a little bit of extra time on them because it's such a central bright potential kind of uh eye-catching part of the piece i think it's worth spending extra time on so i'll show you on these wings the full sequence of what i'm going to do so they've all been hit with that mix and obviously if his hand was here i'd be really struggling to get this angle but his hand isn't there so we're good wash off the brush and now you take a higher percentage of the silver [Music] mix that in and then i'll be popping this on the kind of bottom edges of these wings so having done that we're going to jump to pure silver which really will look very bright in comparison and let's get the very ends of these now we want these to look like they are gold not silver so what we're going to be doing is going to be sneaking in there with a little bit of a wash and that's going to pull everything back so step one with this is to repeat our word bearers red you could use a doomball brown or something else that's kind of closer to gold here if you want it the only reason that i've got using this is it's being used elsewhere on the model and then again using exactly the same brush i'm going to start my strokes in the middle of the wings and i'm going to end them where i want things to be darkest there we go i said we're going to be doing some some chitty hacking with this this is casandora yellow which is a extremely warm vibrant paint and it is a fantastic way to turn silver into gold so just got a small amount of that and we're gonna use it to bring up our gold now you can do this before shading the recess if you like um it's entirely up to you and you can dilute it as much as you want but if you do want a incredibly gold gold this is one of the best ways to get it fast and particularly if you've highlighted and you think you've highlighted your your build up to silver too much this is a really efficient way just to be able to pull it back and put it back into the spectrum where you want it to be to be truly gold that is going to stand out though you cannot miss that on that model [Music] okay so we're at the joyful part of the video where you get to watch me struggling to paint eyes i know everyone loves this so just for something a little bit different i'm going to grab a bit of a blue i'm using a hurry man here but it doesn't matter too much i've already given these kind of a uh a base coat of the whites i've just used the bone for that i don't like it when they're pure white because i don't feel that i'm amazing at eyes at this size so i don't want to draw too much attention to them but also that that white white does stand out a little bit too much for my liking so test my brush on my hand and then let's see how we can go here okay now they may not look great but what i'm going to be doing is my secret trick of deleting my mistakes around the edge so i'm going to grab a little bit of word bearers mix up a little bit of a wash and those bits where we went over it towards the top we're just going to delete no one ever needs to know how badly they turned out then we have here our slightly more acceptable eyes our space marine has been taken off his dick what his head has at any rate i've just finished off his hair with a bit of wild wider red which make sure he's nice and pale and then now is the very important part where i pick his facing um he's got a pointing finger which kind of it takes it out of your hands uh a little bit more what he's doing but he can be looking a different direction to the one that he's facing things that i'm considering are like do i want the angle that he's facing at which is generally where people be looking at him from to show off his weapon or not so i want it to be going exactly in the same direction as the finger in which case we can have kind of a really cohesive final feel um i do like how things look side on with the weapon but equally i like his uh i like his very very gold fronting so i get him there make sure he's looking down his nose a little bit not quite that aggressively at whoever he's looking at nice and imperious and that's what we're going for i do like to have a kind of a focal point in a direction that our guys are looking at now for basing i'm going to be using exactly the same method that i used recently on our black templar this is scrag brown and word bear is red i've put them neat onto an agrel nerfed base and then i'm just using a wet brush to fade in between them now the important thing with this is to make sure that you go right up to the edge obviously don't use your favorite brush for this this is a pretty uh a pretty rough and ready technique and i've got a very very sad ancient size three that is reserved for uh for this type of task now as for the dry brushing we've done quite a thick layer there it's up to you how much water you involve in the process um you can have it look kind of like it's been more muddy or more arid and dry entirely up to you i'm just using a medium here and i'm doing a quick dry brush of the scrag which you won't be able to notice too much because there's so much of it in our base coat but then from that i'm swiftly moving through to fire dragon bright i'm not using my dry wash in any particular direction here it's definitely much more of a buffing motion and the reason for that is it's the ground like i'm not simulating a light source or shadows or anything like that it's all being hit from above in my head so everything is just going to be highlighted kind of regardless then quickly we're moving through to the screening skill that we still have on our palette work off the excess of that and then that will really allow us to kind of pick up on these details and give us a lovely effect super quick now we've got the black bass room drawing our guy is looking pretty sweet as ever we've got a couple of very important steps just to time with the base so i'm going to take a couple of our browns this is majority scrag brown hair wash it down quite a lot mixed a little bit with our word bearers red mix and very very carefully we're going to use that to tie him in with his base now you can do this as much or as little as you like i do think he should always do it a bit even if he has dropped like fresh out of his drop pod there is going to be some of his new planetary environment uh working its way up his legs or dust or whatever and i think it works absolutely wonders for just making sure that your guy makes sense as a model in the environment he's in so i'll do a little bit with this mix and then after i've done that kind of everywhere working up to wherever you like it's up to you how far you take it up his legs or his body once that's been done i'm going to jump in with the scrag brown and then a tiny bit of scrag brown and the fire dragon bright and just kind of dot it around in little bits and kind of highlight my highlights as far as the weathering goes but it's a really important step and it does go a massive way to ensuring that your model makes sense in whatever environment that you've based him we are going for transfers now if your transfers don't go perfectly or they tear a little bit or something like that don't despair putting them on as a guideline it's just as good as having them on elsewhere so what i'm doing here is i've got some of our dark angels green contrast and i've also got some white um it's not a dwight um use it on dwight to get the the whitest of whites if you are trying to fix a transfer and any bits where the transfer is kind of flecked off which you can see here you can actually just fade in so what i'm going to do is all the way around this transfer i'm going to swiftly glaze this on and then these little wrinkles um or lighter sections or bits where they transfer my transfer did actually rip and it put some little white bits around it i can quickly go around and basically um fix my mistakes i put a matte varnish on before doing this process just to protect what's there and then with this little double zero i've got plenty of control and i can basically go around and kind of mitigate my mistakes that i've made i had a rip here let's see if i can just and i'm actually um rather than kind of giving up uh the transfer went fairly well so i've got some white on my palette and what you can do is go on and if you see where i've gone over the sides of it with the wash i can go and fix our mistakes there and this is so much easier with something down as a guideline there we go [Music] okay here we go so we ended up cheating and using the transfer came out all right though and we've got our little tips for kind of customizing those super effective paint job as i've stressed many times you can change this however you like using a black a purple or the green like i did or even adding some black into that green all of those will drastically change the end result of this and it's a very very flexible and forgiving technique all in all if you were doing this over an army it's really really efficient like incredibly efficient the two steps of the kind of precise edge highlighting really really add up and over unit 10 guys you'll look down and think that someone spent hours on something rather than having dry brush there which is kind of what we're aiming for with the technique so if you have any questions pop them below if you've got any suggestions future content pop those below as well please give the video a like comment and subscribe and we'll see you in a future video you

Channel: Artis Opus

Views: 87,862

Keywords: warhammer, artis opus, tabletop, board game, wargaming, mini, miniature, hobby, games workshop, painting, Space Marines, Dark Angels, 40k, How to paint space marines, ideas for space marines, how to paint dark angels, dark angles, help with dark angels, dark angels painting scheme, painting heads, painting dark angels space marines, space marine, horus heresy, painting dark angels

Id: HmNBobOcSuU

Length: 23min 23sec (1403 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 30 2020