So today we’re going to give you seven painting
hacks on how to make your painting experience more efficient and faster because, let’s
face it, it’s something that’s absolutely needed in every home renovation. Whether you’re
going to be selling your property or you’re just remodeling your home, painting is always
a part of it. So I want to give you seven tips on how to make that easier for you.
So tip #1 is for repairing any holes or nail holes from pictures that you take off the
wall to use DAP DryDex. I really love using this product because it is fast drying. And
the biggest thing about it is that it doesn’t shrink or crack. So typically on a normal
installation, you have to do two coats of drywall mud to fill any type of hole. This
will eliminate that. It takes one time. And the nice thing about it is it goes on pink.
And then once it’s dry, it turns to a natural wood-filler look, so you know when you’re
ready to go and start priming. But its great because you don’t have to work twice the
amount of time to fill these holes. You can just putty it in, and then you’ll be able
to paint… this’ll turn to… actually, it’s starting to turn already. It’ll turn
to like a wood-filler look, and then you can just go ahead and prime that and be ready
to paint. So tip #2 is to use a large 18-inch nap roller
to roll your walls and ceilings. This is probably going to be the thing that saves you the most
time because, typically, normal roller pads are only 9 inches. So if you have twice that
distance, you’re going to be cutting down the amount of time it takes to apply that
paint. Now, this is one that’s made by Purdy. I bought an extension pole as well with it.
This will go up to about 8 feet. So this will make it easier to roll large rooms like this
that have cathedral ceilings. But applying the paint with a long roller like this is
going to save you basically half the amount of time with the regular roller.
So tip #3 is to use the proper nap size for the type of walls that you’re painting.
So most flat, smooth drywall walls, you want to use a 3/8-inch nap roller pad. And then
for anything textured, you want to go to a ½-inch nap roller size. Main reason for this
is that if you use too big of a nap roller, you’re going to apply too much paint to
the wall, and it’s going to take longer for you to actually smooth out that paint
surface. But if you have a textured ceiling for say, the more nap, the more paint you’re
able to apply, and it’s going to be easier to fill in all the cracks and divots that
the textured surface has. So always use a ½-inch nap roller for textured ceilings,
and 3/8-inch nap roller pads for smooth walls. So tip #4, I have to give a big shout out
to Idaho Painter who is here on YouTube, he’s the one who gave me the advice on this one,
and that is to use a corner roller pad. And basically all it is is a standard roller pad,
but it has the edge that’s completely covered by the fleece of the roller. You’re able
to cut in and roll all at the same time having a roller pad that has the side covered like
this. Typically, you always have to paintbrush the corners of a ceiling, but this eliminates
that step. So anything you can save a couple of minutes doing is well worth it. So thanks,
Idaho Painter, for this tip. And as you could see, it gets all the way into that corner.
It’s obviously smearing on the side wall, but we’re going to be cutting in the walls
with the regular paint, but this eliminates the step.
So tip #5 is to use drywall stilts to cut in the ceiling of the wall color that you’re
using. Being able to walk on stilts makes it a lot easier to walk around the room and
be more efficient with your painting, rather than getting up on a ladder and moving every
4 feet with that ladder, takes up time. Walking on stilts will allow you to do that all on
basically one motion and speed up the time of painting.
So we’re going to put some stilts on. This is going to really help out with cutting in
the ceiling and not having to use a ladder, essentially, to do all your cutting in. So
really, you just have two straps on them for your feet. Typically, I find that the bigger
boots are easier to wear when you’re doing this than using tennis shoes. You know, it
just kind of holds on there better. Any time I use tennis shoes, it’s really tough to
get everything anchored down properly. So I actually have a strap that’s missing on
the back, but… All right. So your stilts really allow you to get up
as if you’re just standing and be able to cut in. Really makes it a lot easier than
moving a ladder around. It’s a lot easier on your neck, too. You’re not looking up
as much. So the kind of brushes I like to use is primarily
Purdy brushes with the angled type where it has like a slant on the brush. And I typically
use about a 2 ½-inch brush. I think that gives the easiest amount of coverage and ability
to cut in. But the angled part of this brush allows me to get right into this corner and
just do full swoops. I think the real key of creating straight
lines with a paintbrush is using motions that are continuous rather than dabbing back and
forth. If you can get like a half an arm’s width stretch all on one swoop, it’ll keep
that line a lot straighter rather than just dabbing little pieces at a time. If you’re
dabbing things, it just makes it harder to keep nice, straight lines. So try to keep
your motions continuous with brushing, and that’ll allow you to cut in a lot easier.
Tip #6 is to use an oil-based primer for any water stains or stains that have come through
the drywall. Using an oil-based primer will ensure that it’s blocked and that you don’t
have to come back later to address any of the issues. The last thing you want to do
is use a water-based sealer that ends up still bleeding through, and you have to come back
and repaint. So it’s going to make things a lot more efficient for you if you start
out with an oil-based prime blocker. We actually specifically are using the Sherwin Williams
ProBlock Primer, and it’s an interior oil-based primer.
Okay, so we’re going to spot-prime these water stains with the ProBlocker. It’s basically
an oil-based primer. Really, the oil-based primer is going to be your best bet to block
out any stains. In my mind, I don’t see any reason to try to do an acrylic water-based.
Just go with the oil-based; you know it’s going to cover. So I always use a disposal
mini-brush for this because I don’t want to waste a whole roller. But obviously with
oil-based, you don’t want to use your nice paintbrush with it or you’re going to have
to really clean it up with acetone or mineral spirits.
So you could see how this turns to a natural color now, kind of like a wood-toned color.
So now it’s ready to go ahead and prime. So another great place to use this oil-based
primer are the knots on your wood. You can see how this is bleeding through. So if you
used oil-based on that, that’ll keep that stain from popping through.
So tip #7 is going to save you a significant amount of time, and it’s always something
that probably takes more time than painting all the walls, and that is to paint all your
doors. You always pretty much have to paint your doors when you paint all the walls. Otherwise,
it’s going to look unfinished. They came out with a great product that I think is going
to be really efficient for your time. It’s called the Stack Rack. And this kit allows
you to paint four doors, both sides, at once essentially. You’re really cutting down
the savings, like pretty much paint all the doors in a house in one day versus stacking
them and leaning them against the wall and taking several days to do. So use the Stack
Rack the paint your doors. And here’s a bonus tip for you: use a carpet
shield plastic film adhesive plastic to cover any carpet in your area. No matter how safe
or careful you are, the likelihood of you spilling paint on the carpet is very high,
so use a plastic carpet shield to protect your carpet.
Hey, if you like these tips, please give us a thumbs up. It helps other people out. So
give us a thumbs up.
