How to Make Perfume like Lost Cherry

hi friends welcome back today we are making lost Cherry by Tom Ford released in 2018 the nose behind this according to Fred grantia is Louise Turner and looking forward to making this I have not made this before this is a blind creation um but I'm looking for it not just because of the Cherry notes but because this contains Benz alahh a fair bit of Benz alahh and I am a fan of Benz alahh love love love it looking at the structure of this fragrance most of it is in Jasmine mugay notes now I'm guessing most of that's heon let's see yeah 30% of the juice is in heon then another 6% is in sandalore another 6% is en cumarin 10% vanillin 20% isoe super ooh 12% havano yeah there's some uh I'm finding that a lot of fragrances a lot of modern fragrances um have this kind of vibe they are a majority of hon ISO super some kind of musk Sandalwood material uh vanilla that stuff 80% 90% of the formula is that and then with all the other notes sprinkled in with that last 15 to 20% of the formula you have you have the uh personality you have the what makes the formula what it is so let's get to work on this what I think I'm going to start with today is the Woody Musk vanilla base so we're going to start with our isoe super per usual now what I'm making here is going to be roughly 9 G when I'm all done it'll be a 20% concentration right straight in the odap param category and I'm hoping this will be good I'm hoping this will be good I found this formula on bass notes on the bass notes Forum I certainly hope this wasn't a purchased formula I have no interest in uh stealing someone else's work if someone someone does a let's be honest someone does a gcms analysis nobody created these fragrances right Louise Turner is responsible for this fragrance everyone else is basically basically copying her but for those who put in the work to buy the gcms analysis put in the work to interpret the gcms analysis and then sell that work as a product I don't mind purchasing that for study formulas but I have no interest in uh publishing that work uh it's not mine not mine to give away so I'm hoping uh I'm hoping this is uh maybe a personal gcms analysis but um it's all right if someone asks me to take it down then what I'll do is I'll just remove the formula from the show notes I'll keep the video up because I'm not giving the exact percentages when I'm talking um but I will pull down I will pull down the uh the show notes okay next up and Bren now how much ambroxan is in here it's almost 2% of the formula is ambroxan and bro and broen is one of these funny materials where a little can go a long way and if you use too much you might actually get to the point where you start wondering you start wondering why can't I smell the amb roxin there's kind of a limit I believe to what your nose can handle with ambroxan now that's a uh relatively inexperienced opinion I've only had um a couple experiences with dosing ambroxan where I'm like N I don't think more ambrox is going to make it stronger where it's actually you've got to dial it back and then re refigure your uh your formulation next up we're going to do nor lanol we are just doing basically a drop and a splash of nor lonol this is a very strong material oh no I think that might no we still need a splash that that'll do it okay next up we're we'll add in our hion I'm using hon HC I do believe the formula just said heion but I'm wondering if if you look at a gcms analysis I don't know if it says um what it says on the molecule readout how you can tell if it's heion or hon HC it's the same molecule different isomers of the same molecule but it's still the same molecule so I wonder if it's one of those things where you have to analyze the the gcms then you actually have to put together the formula that you're the the juice and compare it to your reference compare it to the the actual fragrance that you're trying to recreate and then with that then dose the hion to heion HC ratio and I I'm wondering here I'm thinking out loud I don't know if that's the case don't know if that's the case same thing with ISO super how do you know if you're using ISO super or Timber silk or silver Amber which of the pachuli eanon you going to use okay all right we're going to do a few more we are going to do all of our musks we're going to do our sandal Woods our veras and then we're going to do the the sweet stuff we're just going to get the sweet stuff out of the way so this this is a fair bit of material we're putting in here um yeah Fair bit so let's start let's just get our veros out of the way veros otherwise known as everil molecule name is methyl atrate if you're new to the show um Oak m one of the major molecules in Oak Moss is methyl atrate and when you use Oak Moss you get a beautiful earthy herbal aromatic opening and then as it dries down over time all that's left is methyl after rate at least that's what my nose smells I'm sure there's more to it than just that but that's what you smell so after 2 days on a strip you smell Oak Moss you smell veras so with veras you get that Oak Moss smell but you don't get that nice opening that you get with Oak moss and I do Wonder we're moving on to ebanol I I do Wonder with Oak Moss how much of that opening are you actually getting from Oak Moss how much is actually being covered up by say Rose or leather or lemon bergamont whatever it is I'll have to look into that all right ebanol we using ebanol and sandalore as our Sandalwood notes that'll do no no no one more good okay eom ebom a very nice sweet Sandalwood note we use sandalore this is a bit more subdued than ebanol bit smoother softer a little more fruity yeah little more fruity I just got in three new sandal woods today Australian Sandalwood myor sandalwood and Hawaiian Sandalwood it's interesting smell of smelling those I'll have to do a quick little review video on U on those materials on smelling the differences between those materials there are subtle differences but they were a joy to smell okay let's move into our musks we're going to start with Habano I believe this is the last material I will use that is neat everything else is at a 10% or a 1% dilution so Habano boy something about haban I've been using a lot of this lately yeah been using a lot of it hanany is wonderful balide is one of the white musks if you're wondering what a white musk is it's a musk that's not a deer musk right it's not an animalic deer musk okay I'm not paying attention here here we go with a white musk you get the soft elegant musky aspect the sweetness but you don't get deer hide you don't get wet animal I won't say wet dog does not wet dog if you've ever been out in the if You' ever been out in the forest and you smell you smell an elk deer wild animals smell and uh the animalic musks like muscone musone and then some of the mixtures like Shang gred Shang gr I don't know how do you say that orone I think orone or aouch t t tonone there's I should do a review on that there's a whole bunch of animalic musks that all smell a little bit similar um those are not white musks those are you more animalic musks we're moving on to exalto here there's not much and then there are Nitro musks most of which have been banned at least in cosmetics in uh the EU something about them being uh they get absorbed into the system maybe they're fat soluble they they store in your fat cells for example like musk amb Bret I believe uh and I don't know if it's harmful to reproduction or uh not sure what the consequences are but stays in your system and um the EU has banned it again I haven't seen the studies I don't know what the uh consequences are it was serious enough for them to ban it in the European Union but in the United States uh no action was taken I think those musks are still unregulated so like musk zylene musk EMB Bret uh the are nitr musks they're Nitro musks because of the structure the the molecular structure of the musk I'm not a chemist but there must be some nitrogen going on in the Nitro musks I'm just guessing I don't know tell me if I'm wrong they smell amazing the nitr musks smell amazing and there's a reason why the barber shop fragrances of the past don't smell they're not around today cuz you using things like musk EMB Bret musk xylene um and those are hard to replace okay next up vanillin just over 10% of this formula is vanillin and I'm going to need a new dilution luckily I have just enough for this formula cutting it close I'm going to do four more ethyl vanillin this is like vanillin it's like vanilla vanilla but more like vanilla ice cream it's a little sweeter creamier little tastier going to be honest this is this is really nice but it is uh it's sweet okay three more next up ethyl maltol now I have a hard time smelling ethyl maltol I'm getting better at it I've been making enough backarat Rouge 540 and uh Ood for greatness at least the base that starts those fragrances are the same uses a lot of eth Malto so my nose is getting used to it this is a little more caramel a little bit more like cotton candy it's still sweet it's still sweet but the nature of the sweetness is different now there's only 0.002 G in here which means we're doing one drop and then a splash now if you're ever in Google patents and you see something called ethyl praline it's ethyl Malton two more cumarin fair bit of cumarin yeah I've got enough made a dilution recently wonderful I do love cumin the first time I smelled cumarin wasn't actually cumarin per se I was smelling tonka bean and I remember thinking oh my gosh that's what I smell in wajan in uh parfams de Marley Wan and I was all about that tonka bean for a while and then when I purchased cumarin and I smelled cumarin I said oh that's tonka bean I had no idea and for a while I didn't understand why would you use cumarin you can just use taban Well turns out one of them is cheaper all right benzoin cam okay benzoin Cam this is the last part of the base come on this is a little sticky oh I love benzoin cam I know I say that pachuli dark is one of my favorite dark pachuli is one of my favorite uh fragrance materials I had forgotten about benu and cam this stuff chocy it's almost like Cola there's vanilla in here here caramel oh this is fantastic now just a word of warning perfumer's Apprentice sells a benzoin they sell benzo and Cam I think actually that's where I got this benzo and cam resin I think it comes 50% in benzo benzoate but they also sell a benzoin in eth all I wouldn't suggest you get that it is a benzo and tincture and it it unfortunately it probably serves a purpose why else would they sell it right why else would they sell it if it didn't actually serve a purpose in perfumery but it is lacking the beauty and Clarity not Clarity the be Beauty and depth of the benzamin cam resin okay we have finished let me do a spot check here yeah we have finished our base we're going to add those and then we have oh that's a lot of stuff okay have our florals are do that one okay yeah cool let's do it so let's give this oh my gosh this thing's almost full I mean look at this we have more than half of the materials left and if you can see this it's we're almost full we are almost full all right that's there's some swirly stuff in there I know Theo the camera close-up is going to get this but watch As I push that around you can see you can see some of the materials that aren't blended with the others yet which is why I do this push things around get them to really blend okay that's nice yeah that's nice all right let's give it a dip and we're going to let this chill we'll call this base all about that base about that base next up we're going to stick with our more bottom notes um except for the eugenol we're going to add some should we add eugeno yeah we're going to add some eugeno um we have pachuli gak wood veal acetate and then some eugenol and ISO eugenol we're going to add those in then we're going to move to our Rosie uh and Benzel acetate but we're going to move to our florals then we're going to move to the more sweet cherry-like notes then we're going to finish with the green notes let me think of this though do we want to end with the green notes yeah looking at the green notes most of these are kind of considered top notes so we'll see how these green notes affect the sweet base the woods the you know all the Cherry material we'll get to see how that uh we'll get to smell how those are affected so let's start with our light pachuli oh yeah light but still strong got this one from Eden Botanical it is fantastic just three drops pachuli is great for giving uh giving things a chocolatey Vibe mixes it's so such an interesting material it uh goes with a lot it it works well with so much next up gak wood I've learned that there's two kinds of gak wood there's two species of tree that are considered to be gak wood the one I've got is bulnesia sarmenti but there's another one gyakum Sanctum I think I just read that gyakum sanctum is also known as Palos Santo paos Santo yeah Palos Santo didn't know that I thought Palos Santo was like Sandalwood okay gwood where am I looking I've lost it all right guak wood now this is less than 1% of the juice and I'm assuming its function in here is to just add a little Umami little smoky Umami kind of like if your soup is missing something you just add some chopped up bacon you just you know sear some bacon and throw it in there I think that's what our guyin is doing bacon all right next up vial acetate the stuff is thick as all get up when you're using it neat luckily I'm not using it neat I have a nice 10% dilution here when you're using it neat it also has a beautiful color it's a nice rich brown it's like Vier little leathery dry grassy green Vier I don't know how you describe vver without referencing vver it's such a interesting particular smell so not sure I can describe vial acetate without saying the word vver two more ISO eugenol and then eugenol now there's such a little amount of eugenol in here I can't help but Wonder was this a impurity did they in the in the formula is there only ISO ugol but it's like slightly impure I don't know how this works friends I'm just I'm totally guessing here is there Trace Amounts of eugenol within ISO eugenol I know that I do know that you can buy citronellol that is not not that is that has some say Nal in it some geranial in it that is not pure um so I wonder but you know that's this is what the formula says so we're going to put in our ISO ugol and our eugenol now ISO ugol is like eugenol but more Woody it's a little deeper last longer it's a little heavier heavier in the nose not as smooth warm little more a little more edgy scratchy a little more hiss to that warm clove note that you get with yugol yeah yugal is like a pure tone in my nose where ISO yugol has this white noise kind of layered over it it's subtle but it is there okay now we need very little that should do it okay okay we've got our base we're going to call this woods and spice we're going to dip and then we have three more groups that we are going ooh don't don't spill Ryan done that before all right let's smell the base very nice the vanilla is particularly strong but it's balanced out with the iso with the with the iso super the Woody notes the sandalwood the musk the musk is chilling it out and but the heon isn't making it pop like I thought it would if you watched the last video with uh double v double venil however you say it um a little he on and IET super to that vanilla base just was like an amplifier was like an amplifier but then I guess we added the musks and it toned it down so maybe this isn't line but this is very nice starting point a very nice starting point let's smell the addition of our gak wood Veo acetate eugenol ISO yugol and Puli okay yeah the guak wood is adding a little smokiness little bacon little bacon to it and the eugenol and ISO eugenol is adding a very nice warm spice to that smokiness all of it on top of that sweet smooth base this is this is great this is great absolutely wonderful okay next up we're going to do our floral materials now we have let's start with the fenthol alcohol let's see where are you feny ethyl alcohol okay got it fenel ethyl alcohol otherwise known as phenol ethanol or phenol ethyol or phenethyl alcohol or any mix and match of those words this stuff has a lot of names I like to call it P EA okay got it let's move it over here okay next up I grabbed the wrong material no I didn't never mind got the right one okay next up we're going to move in alphabetical order we're just going to start from the top Anil alcohol oh oh haven't used this in a while H it's floral it is anic I get the anic nature of it I'm more familiar with Anis alahh this is like Anis alahh but without the waxiness it's like a it's a little powdery and sweet a beautiful flal little bit like a hin yeah and just a touch almost in the balsamic direction there's not much of this in here just a drop and change yeah good stuff citronellol there is so little citronellol in here wondering if I should even put it in but given the smoothness and the unoffensive of the base that we're using maybe a little citronell o goes a very long way we'll throw it in okay next up damascenone from fisho strong the mascone is strong there's not much in here this is a fruity very ripe fruit like a deep dark Plum yeah it's an amazing material but but you don't need much don't need much at all in fact you could say you use the mascone in Trace Amounts all right next up neura doll let me smell this I can smell things right out of the bottle other times I cannot we'll let that rest okay and roll it all again not much of this just a drop okay let's smell okay nura doll H it's sweet I get the floral nature of it doesn't smell like flowers floral but I can see how it contributes to the floral aspect it's a bit more Woody and soft there's a green aspect to it there's a green aspect to it but I'm getting more like Woody Woody floral okay nura doll noted one more time we'll smell it for good measure okay next up we have two more we're going to put in here heliotropin yes heliotropin there's a fair bit of heliotropin in here here's where one of the main Cherry notes comes from heliotropin also known as piperonal can't get the uh pure stuff word on the street is you can make it you can use it to make drugs so you have to buy it for from a company that has already gotten authorization from the DEA to buy this stuff and they will dilute it typically they dilute it to 20% in something like Benzel benz8 so I grab that 20% dilution and then I just make a 50/50 ethanol heliotropin 20 and I've got it my 10% dilution next up and finally on our floral more floral notes we have other stuff that floral but kind of in the sweeter Direction um benzil acetate now this is a departure from the other floral The Rosy floral notes because this is you know jazz J Jasmine like jasmonic how do you say that we don't need much that will do that will do okay let's give ourselves a swish nice I love seeing the materials blend inside of the bottle something mesmerizing about it all right let's dip and we'll let this sit I'm going to call this florals and we're going to get through the other materials before we evaluate next up we have the more sweet materials we have Benz alahh can't wait for Benz alahh then we have an an anic alahh dyl anthranilate Raspberry Ketone and I'm going to put citral in here as well in fact we're going to start with a citral I know it's more of a top note I have this categorized as a citrus it's bright but there's a floral aspect to it there's a sweet floral aspect to it that I think uh makes me want to put it on the the uh sweets team cuz everything else I'm putting in here except for Raspberry Ketone I've got classified as something that is sweet and EIC alahh is is a maybe a close call that might just that should probably just be in the waxy alahi it group but whatever all right bendz alahh hiide just over 1% in this formula ifra tells me final product is limited to .25% okay looks like we're uh not following ifra here oh Lord I love this smell it is absolutely amazing Benz alahh it's the main note it's the main molecule inside of bitter almond bitter almond is almost pure Benz alahh okay I overdosed the Benz alide a little bit so the opening of this the opening of this fragrance might be a little hot on the uh almond smell on the sweet almond smell next up Anis alahh or an ANC alahh yeah definitely anic I get the anic but I also get the alahh it's it's it's waxy alytic um and we have just over a quarter of a percent of the formula is in Anis alahh okay perfect that will do if anyone watching this has smelled lost Cherry would love to hear from you I've um actually I have smelled this before there I don't know how many cherry fragrances there are now for La for Tom Ford um but I know I I've smelled this along with bitter Peach Electric Cherry I don't know what are the other Cherry ones the other fruit ones they're doing all right dimethyl anthranilate it's like methyl anate but not nearly as strong at least not coming out of the bottle I also believe or what I should say I have also read on the internet that a dimethyl and thran late will not form a shift base with alahh don't know if that's true if you know the answer to that please comment last up for this group Raspberry Ketone otherwise known as framon this stuff's also strong it's nice it's sweet it's fruity small amounts it's raspberry esque I recently heard uh from a review Aon Terrence Hughes was doing a review of something and he was talking about Raspberry Ketone and he made an interesting comment he said Raspberry Ketone has a knack for cleaning up some very tough materials or some a harsh a harsh formula I don't have the exact quote but that's what my brain remembers so I think the next time I run into a roadblock and I've just got some harsh stuff going on maybe I'll throw in some Raspberry Ketone see what happens okay we will give this little blend okay let's dip we're going to write sweets sweet fruits on this sweet fruit and we're not going to evaluate we're going to put in all these green notes first okay five materials to go we're going to start with the tried and true steril acetate yeah this stuff is good very common it's green it's not waxy green it's like uh leafy green but an aggressive leaf yeah sometimes called G gardol okay next up cis3 hexano acetate cis3 hexanol well we're going to do cis3 hexanol next so um let's do the cis3 hexel acetate first there's only boy very little of this in here okay okay next up cis3 hexanol cis3 hexanol is also called Leaf alcohol if you ever poking around patents or formulas it's also called Leaf alcohol it is also occasionally called pipol or pipol p i p o l I've seen that less frequent than cis3 hexol or or um Leaf alcohol but I have seen it maybe it was a brand name maybe it was a trademark brand name of one company's offering of cis3 hexanol and nobody wants to say cis3 hexanol CU it's a lot to say okay next up glyco Lal G Coal also known as Ivy dioxane H it's been a while since I've smelled this it's definitely softer H it's smooth a little more creamy almost milky okay perfect friends we have one more material an ingredient and a molecule I have not used before this molecule is so volatile on the packaging it says keep refrigerated I don't know what happens if I don't keep it refrigerated but I keep this refrigerated this is ethyl 24 Deca dn8 otherwise known as pear Esther there's not much I see why they call it pear Esther this is like a juicy ripe pear and we're going to put it in one drop yeah perfect okay take that pet back G to give this a little swish and while I'm waiting I don't know why I use the pet usually I shake it at the end we're going to dip I'm also going to apply this on my skin even though ifra says I shouldn't do this because balide is roughly five times times or or four times over the accepted amount I hope I don't get sick I hope my skin doesn't fall off because I'm using too much Benz alahh all right that should be enough let's review going all the way back to our base remember Sandalwood vanilla musk straightforward a little bit of benzo in cumer and it's simple straightforward it's smooth it just smells good it's sweet little musky little Sandalwood it's just a great place to start next up we added in the veal acetate the Puli the is the iso eugenol eugenol and the gak wood yeah definitely getting the eugenol iso eugenol and that smokiness from the gak wood now I've noticed over time that gak wood the gak wood that I use can get stronger over time and um that means occasionally some of the formulas that I blend can get very smoky after a few months okay next up we add the floral materials this included the heliotropin so at this point I would be expecting to smell a little more cherry let's see it smells sweet and fruity not sure that I'm getting Cherry it's absolutely lovely but I'm not sure it's Cherry I am getting the Dem masone that ripe deep rich ripe Plum I'm definitely getting the damascan okay now we added in the more sweet materials dimethyl anthranilate we had the benzal ahid um our Raspberry Ketone the anic alahh now we're getting cherry we added the Benz alahh too here okay Benz alahh is needed for a cherry note or at least in this formula that's uh that's much closer this is this is okay this is great this is great now let's smell it when we add the green notes H just a little extra brightness little extra lift the Cherry note is more cherry use with the green notes putting in the green notes uh the glycol Lal CIS hexol steril acetate and the perester that cherry becomes more cherry ow this is nice it's not punching it's not punching off of the strip I've smelled some where it's like holy cow like tone it down not punching but it's very nice very sweet soft elegant let's smell it on the skin o different on the skin it's brighter wow it's a lot brighter wow uh my brain wants to go towards like Bergamot like we have a like that kind of bright note sitting on top but I know it's not there the Benz alahh is wonderful absolutely wonderful oh boy yeah the vanilla musk Sandalwood base is still solid oh my gosh okay on the skin wonderful absolutely wonderful um I can't wait to smell this as this matures over the next month two months um yeah friends give this a try um this is solid this is a solid at least on initial formulation this smells good is it lost Cherry I can't remember uh I don't remember what lost Cherry smells like but this smells like Cherry it's sweet and uh gosh on the skin it's so bright that's so interesting not getting that brightness on this trip um give this a try leave a comment let me know how it goes and remember if you swap anything out let us know what the uh what the um Replacements are and how it goes for you as usual thanks for joining and I'll see you next time

Channel: Ryan Parfums

Views: 1,557

Keywords: Perfume, Perfumer, DIY Perfume, How to make perfume, Cologne, How to make cologne

Id: j2rUaETAafs

Length: 48min 8sec (2888 seconds)

Published: Thu May 02 2024