The best 30 raw materials to begin perfumery with in 2024

your first 30 perfumery raw materials that is the title of this video and that is what I'm going to be covering so if you're looking uh to get into perfumery and you don't know what to buy you don't know what to start with then definitely watch the end of this video so as someone who teaches perfumery on YouTube um a question that I get a lot and I mean a lot is I'm new to perfumery I want to get started but I don't know what to buy and this is completely understandable because if you look online uh you'll find hundreds of fragrant raw materials which you can use and and there are thousands of them in the world so how do you know which you know few um to begin with especially you know if you're in a budget like most people how do you know the best things to get so that is the topic of this video now this is actually something I've been thinking about for a while and part of the reason for that is because I've been thinking about releasing or trying to release a starter kit on my online store the fragrance Foundry which is um an online supplier for perfume equipment primarily um but I also wanted to have a starter kit so you you know if you're a beginner and you want to get your first set of raw materials uh you could pick up something which would be what I think at least is the let's say ideal kind of stter Kit so done a lot of thinking about this and when thinking about which are your first raw materials uh what should be included in such a starter kit I think there are a few important factors so the first one is I want it to be a good value beginner friendly starter kit so the emphasis there on that um you know firstly it should work for you as a beginner it should kind of give you everything you need to get going and give you let's say the best selection of stuff while at the same time being as budget friendly as possible I you want to get the most stuff for the least money right you want something that is really good value so that you can get started in perfumery for the lowest investment possible because you might go and by all this stuff and see that you don't actually like it right um so I think it's good basically to find this balance of being as functional as possible while also being budget friendly and one of those factors that comes into into that is actually the number of things in the kit now some starter kits have uh 20 or so things and I think it's quite hard with 20 raw materials to actually have enough to be able to do a lot with it um whereas when you start getting over 50 I actually think you don't need 50 things to begin with you can begin with 20 if you want to um but I think the sweet spot is around maybe 25 to 35 and because after going through all the raw materials and trying to work out what I think would be in a great starter kit I've landed at this number which is roughly 30 give or take you know there are some things which aren't quite so important if you wanted to minimize a little bit or some things you can add on as extras if you want to go a bit further but I think this kind of number around 30 raw materials um this gives us enough stuff to work with to give you a really good starter kit that's still pretty affordable so as for the raw materials which are selected in the starter kit I think there are actually a few more criteria that are pretty important now the first one is I think it's important to have some of the most famous and common raw materials and that's because there are certain molecules for example things like hideo and IU super that if you've looked at any perfumery content you probably heard about and I think it's pretty important for a beginner to have these molecules that everyone's talking about online um most perfumers are using all of the time um and obviously there's a lot of molecules you know that use frequently um but I think in this kind of starters kit or beginnner kit or whatever you're going to get into your first purchase ideally you would have some of the like at least the most famous and the most commonly used things because you know that's just useful to have right the other thing is I actually think it's important for you to have a lot of different Accords and potential Blends that you can make with a starter kit um because it would be really easy to get a load of Simply famous or common raw materials that you wouldn't necessarily be able to do anything unless you picked them carefully so what I also think is important in that selection of your raw materials is to make sure that a lot of potential ACC cords are already included so having a set of a small set of raw materials that gives you a large number of potential Accords that you can make now obviously in perfumery you can always make let's say infinite numbers of Accords um as many as the set of raw materials give you you could try out different things but there are a there are quite a few well-known let's say or more classic Accords and I especially think as a beginner getting started these are a perfect place to start off so in this kit I'm thinking you know can you make a basic fuer a basic Shea an Amber ACC cord you know Citrus Accord than like that so I'm trying to do this in my selection now I also think it's important to be able to actually go and make some kind of final perfume formula with your beginner's kit potentially even you know a few different types that you could make so again for this it's important to be able to have at least a mixture of top mid and bass notes and also to have a mixture of both raw materials that can scaffold out and give General structure to a perfume and also raw materials that can actually uh you know make up part of the personality of the perfume so there's a lot of things to think about about however I spent a while thinking about it for you with all of my experience so that you know if you're a beginner and you're a bit lost um you can now follow this list and hopefully um this will get you quite far with a minimal investment okay so welcome to the landscape of perfumery raw materials so I'm going to use this picture as a little bit of analogy so we've got a lovely landscape here now the thing about this landscape is it's got loads of different biomes so for example at the front here you've got this cool little deserty like scrub land in the middle you've got this grassy Plains which looks completely different then you've got this nice River Aquatic area with these little mosses growing in the sea and then you've got an island in the Middle with a cool Little Rock and again this looks completely different maybe some insects living here you got this kind of on top of this Cliff you've got this um you got these like pine trees this like Conifer forest and then out in the back you've got all these misas it's like arid desert you've got like a kind of volcano like a maybe there's lava inside of here and the back you've got loads of snowy mountains oh and then up here of course you've got like the celestial stuff as well like you've got the moon and some stars and then up here you got some nice clouds now the point I'm trying to make is that if you think about all of the raw materials and perfumery there are thousands of different raw materials and you can imagine them a bit like species of say different plants or animals that sit across the landscape now there's a lot of different ones obviously we can't cover them all in a starter kit and some of the species are very common you find them in lots of different biomes whereas some of them are very Niche so for the starter kit I want to focus on trying to cover a fairly wide variety of these different biomes like different categories you know classes of raw materials and then also specifically or in particularly try to focus on the common ones so that when you're going to let's say paint your own Landscapes or do your own you know Renditions you've got the tools that are going to help you make the most things possible right so we're going to have a limited number of raw materials but I want to make it so you can you know we pick a good selection so we can do as most as possible with them so this video is going to be the 30 raw materials which I think are a good 30 to start with so we're going to start off with Citrus so Citrus raw materials um this is a very important classic perfumery category of raw materials and these ones are all very like zesty um you know like juicy fresh kind of smells most of them are top notes so they're going to be you know that smell that comes out of you especially when you're opening a perfume when you're spraying it um and let's see what I've put so the first one I think is very important is Bergamot FCF now bergmont is probably the most famous uh Citrus raw material in perfumery it's been used traditionally used in a lot of traditional perfumes but it's also still used today it's just a very nice fresh zesty uplifting smell uh it's also what's used in L gr te so you can get an L gr te note with it that's much more of a niche use case um the thing about bergmont is also a bit longer lasting some of the other things so this is quite useful because it helps often have your citrus note which is usually very very fleeting in perfumes last just that little bit longer so bamont is I think very important to have if you're going to pick one just pick bergmont now FCF stands for furo cumarin free and the thing about bergmont oil is that natural bergmont you find it contains a certain type of chemical or the class of chemicals is called furrin and essentially they're little bit dangerous because um they're photosensitizers so when they get on your skin they can react with the sunlight and cause you kind of nasty Burns so because of that uh normal bergmont is actually quite heavily restrictive use and perfumery now there's another type of bergmont you can get called bergmont FCF standing for fumin free so it's had these removed and it smells very very similar however it's just a lot safer so this is one I recommend you go and buy so next scent we have orange oil now orange oil is just another very classic top note you know and it's you know not much for me to explain here the smell of oranges I think it's a pretty essential one um yeah so I would say as a beginner it's a very useful note to have now on top of this we've got lemon oil so again um you know not the most interesting thing ever but it's just very one of those nice uh fresh zesty Citrus notes you can use all the time in lots of different types of perfumes now I found orange oil to be a little bit sweeter and lemon oil to be much more fresh and kind of it's really um you know that really bright kind of zingy note so they've kind of got different use cases I find orange oil for example can go well um especially more in like darker or more Woody um kind of perfumes and I find lemon oil can go especially well in like aquatic really bright fresh uh perfumes now of course you can use all of these three together to go make a citrus a cord so this is the idea of the kit is like there's a lot of different things you can do with it now another thing that you could could add this one isn't quite so fundamental I wouldn't put this in the core kit but something you could optionally add is one of the Ides uh so for example alide C10 this one smells a little bit like the kind of waxy Orange Peel so especially if you want to take your citrus note and add that little bit of extra Sparkle and lift to it and an alahh is something you can use or to go for a little bit of a citrusy effect in your top note without actually using a citrus um again say you're going for a fresh air kind of thing then you can add one of these alahh so these aliphatic alahh as they're called um you don't need to know too much about them in your very first steps in perfumery um but there are lots of different ones going from C8 up to C12 are the main ones and you you know if you want to add on one of those just so you know what an aldic smell you might have that term thrown around if you want to know what that smells like then you could always pick up one of the alahh highes as well right so next we have the Aquatic or Marine category so in this category I've put a couple of things so the first one is if you want to have that classic aquatic notes and there are a couple of things which are really commonly used here and these are helional and kalon and these are essentially if you want to get that really fresh watery smell that actually smells a little bit like water or something like that they also both have a little bit of a fresh kind of melon smell you know that kind of Juicy watery smell you get when you have a melon both of these often are used together helion now and Kon the thing about kog is it's extremely powerful which makes it a bit harder to dose as a beginner and also this one is quite a polarizing smell so um often some people just have grown to hate the smell of K because of some of the perfumes it's used in so I'd recommend having hel now first because you can actually use this in other um perfumes that aren't strictly aquatic perfumes just for a little bit of a fresher effect um but if you really like aquatic perfumes or you want to explore that category then definitely get both of them so the next thing I got for you is dihydro merol now this one um you could categorize it differently it's not strictly an aquatic note but you know I had to take a little bit of Liberty of the categorizations uh for this little presentation for you guys um I probably class it technically as aromatic but it's an aromatic note with a very fresh watery facet to it so I put it in aquatic for this version now dihydro merol is a certain smell some people love it some people hate it but it's this very fresh um kind of herbaceous watery smell and it's a distinctive and iconic smell that's used in a lot of fragrances especially ones that were famous in the '90s and I think it's very important for you to at least know what this smells like regardless of whether you love or hate it um because you know if you hate it then at least you know what it is and then you know to avoid it but if you love it then you know you can do a lot of really nice things with this and you can either dose it very strongly to give you that um strong effect and it really helps your perfume smell like some of those classic perfumes you know like DB it off cool water especially if you combine it with the Helen the c or and if you just use touches like little small amounts you can actually just freshen up your perfume so I think this one is really cool raw material then finally we have ambroxan now again you categorize this a little bit differently you could put this in Amber um but it's also to some degree a marine smell and this is actually a molecule that was originally uh used not directly but because it was found in something called amree which comes from Wales now this is classically used in perfumery but now they've worked out to synthesize this much more pure version of the molecule and this is used in most commercial perfumes as kind of like an exalting agent so it kind of boosts it up um on its own it's got a very nice like a bit of an ethereal Serene ambery Marine smell very nice but you can put in a lot of things just to boost them it can help a little bit with fixation and just amping up your perfumes making them a bit more rounded um making them just smell a little bit better it's almost like adding sometimes you could say your MSG to your perfume right so next we're going to move on to the traditional notes as I'm categorizing them so this is not a proper uh category in perfumery like traditional notes um but as you'll find with categories and perfumery um categories on perfumery can kind of change depending on the context and there's actually a lot more in terms of categorization um I can't cover that in this video um but I will cover it in my online course however for now um for the purposes of this kit I thought it was more appropriate to pick categories that were logical for the kit rather than just um put everything in let's say what would technically or more canonically be its main category because then you might have categories with just one thing inside of them so you know and in the context of the kit I think it actually helps you use the kit by C ing them in this way so in this traditional category I've put things which help you make up traditional cords um specifically things that we use traditionally to make up perfumes now some of the notes that we use traditionally are scattered around the categories I'll talk about those um but these ones specifically definitely have a little bit of a traditional theme to them so firstly we're going to start off with labdanum now labdanum absolute is one of my favorite raw materials in perfumery this smells lovely it's like a very warm balsamic resinous kind of smell a little bit of a honey it's definitely got an Amber side to it and for this one you can either use the absolute or the rid it doesn't really matter now what you can go do with this is you can first you make a classic Amber cord which is in combination with vanillin which I put in the sweet note section um but it's also you know vanilla's technically a traditional note too because it's been used for about a 100 years or so um but also then you've got a Shea type formula so Shea is another very classic perfume Accord and you need lbum to go and make that now as well as she you've got another very classical type of Accord um and all of these Accords the Amber Shea and fuer which is this third one um you can actually make up a basic version with the kit I did that on purpose very intentionally um but these three are also very useful in your fuger so you've got lavender um you've got veros or Oak moss and osala silate so in a fuer you also would use something called cumarin which again is in the sweet note section so we'll talk about that in a bit and you'll actually find a lot of these traditional notes um you can actually kind of you know use a lot of um you know there's not that much difference between the Shea and the fuer so you can kind of use the notes found in both of them and kind of mix and match a little bit here and there but essentially Lavender is that kind of very classical um let's a herbal uh top to midn note so if you want a kind of you know a bit of a herbal smell a bit of an aromatic smell a bit maybe rustic and it's also a little bit soft and sleepy so lavender um you can use that you know in different types of perfumes or as part of your fuera cord then veras or oakmoss so probably more traditionally you would have oakmoss as a key note however oakmoss became quite restricted by the ifra and you know also oakmoss is quite a like thick smell so it's like a imagine a thick a little bit of a Tangy kind of deep um little bit of an earthy Woody Mossy smell now veros is the main constituent inside of Oak Moss but it's you know a lot less well it's not restricted by the AR firstly so you can use as much as you want and it's a lot cleaner smelling so oakmoss itself is like imagine purely like un unfiltered kind of smell with a lot of like darker kind of natural elements to it whereas veros is like a much cleaner single molecule which encapsulates a lot of the smell um but it's sweeter it's more powdery cleaner and it's therefore probably a little bit more versatile and because you know again it's not restricted unlike the actual look Moss um you can get an ifra um unrestricted version of okas by the way or a less restricted version so you look out for that um but I would recommend if you're not going to buy both then probably actually start with phos now we've also got Amos salal and this is another very classic note it was used a lot in Fes it's not actually integral to the structure of a fuer but nonetheless it was used often a lot alongside them and it um was said at the time to kind of contribute towards a little bit of a clover smell so that's why I put the picture of the Clover here um this thing I also find it's got a slight little bit of a a vet facet to it it's got a bit of a cleaner facet you know a little bit soapy that's probably because it's used in so many soap formulas traditionally and but again I think this one is actually very useful and it also serves as an introduction to the salicilic class of raw materials and you can see how those um you know make different effects in your perfumes so finally then I've got Puli essential oil now this one is really important in perfumery actually Puli as a smell is very herbaceous and it's quite pungent earthy um you know and a lot of people or some people don't like it at all some people really hate it some people really love it um but you know there's different levels of using pachuli yes you can make a pachuli bomb like perfume where you just go and stick a lot of pachuli in it and you'll get a very like you know 60s hedgehop kind of smell coming out of it and but that's not the only way to use pachuli and even if you don't like pachuli there are lots of other ways of using little small amounts in certain compositions um to actually give very good effects so this pachuli um can go in both your sheeper and your fuer first if you're doing a traditional perfume and but also in more modern like Gourmand style perfumes you can mix it with sweet notes to make like a yeah like a Gourmand thing um inspired by like you know like Angel that kind of perfume and so you can mix it with your vanilla and then you know you can just experiment with Puli as it's a bass note um you can see you know what adding a little bit of patuli or a lot if you like it does to your bass note you can use it to construct different bass notes so you can use in combination with your musks and your Woody ambers and to give certain types of effects so I think Puli is pretty important right so next talking of musks look at these guys come on like look at them this is my little musks right they're all little happy musk buddies and they all look kind of Fairly similar but different at the same time and that kind of summarizes the musk so there's a lot of musks in perfumery and you know most perfumers have a large palette of musks and if you get serious about perfumery then at some point you should do that too however to begin with uh you want to start somewhere so let's think about you know adding I would say a kit of like kind of three or so musks and you should be able to get quite far with just that so the first one that I would suggest um the one that I like to use most this is like my most used mask um I think it's just extremely nice and useful is effen brasselet now this one is I think it just sits nicely in the middle of all the musks it's a little bit sweet it's a little bit powdery um it's a little bit soft um it kind of does a little bit of everything it's a bit clean fresh it's a bit animalic as well it's a bit you know it's just a little bit in the middle and it's quite soft and subtle but it's also still noticeable so you can put this in pretty much any perfume um any perfume especially that you want to um add something in the bass note too it can kind of create this nice uh soft effect in the bass note so I would say as your go-to musk this you can't really go too wrong with now the next musk that I put in the kit is something called galaxite now this musk is is maybe the most famous musk of all um and one of the most widely used ones I myself actually don't get on so well with that musk because I'm a little bit anosmic to it I don't smell it very well at all um so this is actually a common thing with musk a lot of musk they very big molecules um not everyone can smell all of the musks um so actually a lot of the reason lots of different musks you use can be because if you've got a lot of musks usually everyone's got at least a few of them that they can smell and this is because it's they're big molecules and it gets kind of the limit of what your nose can actually detect so galaxolide is a very traditionally popular one and I because of that I think it should be in the kit um you may not have the same experience as me and also this one goes in as part of the Gan Accord which is a very famous Accord and I wanted you to be able to make that Accord with The Beginner's kit so for that reason I included it now the problem with Galaxy is it's actually got a lot of environmental concerns a bit more recently because it's found to be very persistent in the environment it just doesn't really biodegrade and so much of this is used in like laundry detergent and stuff like that that actually it's starting to a little bit of a problem so if you want a more environmentally friendly version um that you know doesn't have these biodegrading problems uh you know something that you may be able to smell if you can't smell galaxolide like me you can try Randal now in perfumery there is never really uh usually a one-on-one replacer that does an absolutely perfect job some cases a little bit better than others um with galaxolide there isn't anything that absolutely just you know will do the exact same thing as galaid um so it's not just like you know you can think oh if I have raandy it will be the same but uh the general consensus seems to be that raandy is probably the closest uh thing if you want to drop something in in place of it so you know you can go and get galaxolide or Randal or both it's up to you now aside from that I think cuz musks are quite an important category in perfumery because they're one of the things that really make your perfumes last longer and it helps you construct your bass notes I thought you know why not have a free choice of another musk so there's a few different options you can can pick um so firstly probably my favorite one is Habano and this one is a clean hot iron musk so it's like that smell when you do the ironing it's a bit of a hot metallic smell and it's quite modern I really like it another one you can do is muscone this one is a little bit more powdery it's quite strong so if you want to have a nice musky powdery Bas in your perfume you can drop in a little bit of muskanon now while muscan is a bit more of an animalic musk you've also got amaly and this one is actually naturally found in ambr seeds which is a type of plant this one is actually quite a powerful musk that comes through in all kind of stages of your perfume it's a little bit sweet a little bit powdery um yeah so this one could be another one you might like and finally you've got something like edeni which is a bit different actually from some of the other musks so this one is a musk which has a bit of a top note impact so this one often comes a bit through a bit more in the top note doesn't last necessarily as long as they have musks but this one is a bit sweeter a bit more fruity so if you're going for like a sweet fruity composition this could be a really nice musk to drop in to get a like a fruity clean fresh Berry effect in your perfume there's a lot of different options for the musks doesn't really matter what you pick I would say effen brasselet is probably my opinion the most important one to have um I think galaide you ought to have and then you know pick something else as well right so next we have the sweets or Gman notes so this is quite a broad category um if you say Gman it strictly means like edible stuffs this could include a lot of things like the smell of popcorn or smell of coffee um I'm going to tell you about a few things which I think are quite important to have so the first one is vanillin this one is actually a traditional note as well it's been used for a long long time and this can really about going just about every perfume um you know it adds a sweet note if you add a lot of it it basically is a vanilla smell if you add a little bit it can just had a touch of sweetness also very longlasting so it's good in your bass note now um the actual smell of vanilla that most people know is actually just vanillin because most of the time um you know when the flavoring industry is making all their food products that you find in the supermarkets and most of the time um you know in most products because real vanilla is very expensive it's actually much cheaper to use vanilla which is synthetic molecule and it's also used as a flavoring it's not just a perfume ingredient so this is actually the smell that most people recognize as vanilla so this does a very good job at getting you a vanilla smell now aside from that you also got another one which is perfumery called e molto now this one is also sweet but it's less vanilic and this one is imagine more of like a caramelized like tofe a bit of a jam kind of smell so this one can go and add like a nice big like radiant sweetness to your perfumes and actually this one often helps with the seage as they call it as well which is that effects you know when you're walking around and your perfume can kind of follow you around a little bit this stuff's very powerful um but it's also very popular and very common um you may or may not like it so much but I think it's a good thing to have in your starters let's say arsenal of raw materials so as well as that we've got cumin now this one is an interesting note this one has been traditionally used in perfumery for a long time um it's also used in those fuer records that I was talking about before um but on its own it actually smells a bit sweeter it's some people describe it as a haylike smell um it's also got a sweetness and a bit of a maip pan facet to it this was actually used to be used for things like cinnamon buns um and then it was found out that you know you're not really meant to eat but some people still do um I think it's banned by the FDA in America or something like that um anyway cumin is another useful note it can be used to make sweeter cords actually just a lot of different types of things it's also got a bit of an Amber side so you can use an Amber perfumes get the idea now another thing I thought would be good to have is something like a bit of a sweeter heliotrope note so if you don't know heliotrope is a type of uh flower and there is something called heliotropin which is quite a famous Mo perfumery that that um you know is like a a bit reminiscent of that flour so it's a it's a soft floral smell um but unlike other florals which are just quite strictly floral and this one is very sweet and it's a bit of a fruity leaning Direction almost a bit of a cherry like smell so if you want a nice lovely kind of soft uh powdery Cherry sweetness smell you use something called heliotropin now unfortunately this is Bann in most places because it can be used to make uh certain substances which you are not allowed to make um so because of that you've got a couple of options you can either use heliotrop and diapy acety which doesn't smell as strongly but it's still retains its character pretty well or you can use veride which is actually closer to vanillin it's somewhere like between a vanilla and a heliotrope smell and this one it's very longlasting you can use in your bass notes and you can use it to construct a heliotrope a cord um alongside other things for example analid which is also in this kit and I'll cover that a bit later so I think it's nice to have one of those kind of notes because it means if you going for the strictly like Classic Bakery style of sweetness you've also got say a more floral kind of sweetness um that you can use for different types of perfumes so you've got a bit of variety in the things you can do with a kit right so now we have I think you know what this is Woody notes so there are loads of Woody notes you could use uh in perfumery and obviously it's going to be very hard to fit just within a couple but I'll think you know I'm going to show you what I think at least the most important and say you're going to have to just pick free uh kind of what your options are so I think first of all a very famous one of perfumery is is super now a lot of people don't even know necessarily it's a woody note but it is a kind of Woody Amber molecule and it it what it smells like is it's a bit Woody and it's like this nice velvety kind of um Cedar like a little bit Woody effects and this thing is very diffusive and radiant and because of that it's it's very famous because it's actually used in perfumes especially these days in massive amounts because of that lovely effect it gives most people like it can be used as much as 50% of the formula some cases so as a beginner I would definitely recommend this would be probably in the top three things that you should have um this one's very important now aside from that I also think vertifix is a good one to have and there are lots of different types of Woody notes and one of those types are Cedarwood notes now the thing about Cedarwood oil on its own is it's kind of um it's a bit more traditional but it's a bit harder to work with um because it's kind of complex and strong and can over power your perfumes quite easily now of course CED wood is a very good note to have as well so if you can have both but verto fix I like to think of it as the modern clean seawood molecule that you can drop in you can use it a lot more liberally and it will give you a nice Woody note that's a lot cleaner and it will make your perfume smell a lot more modern so it's much easier to use especially as a beginner if you want you can make you can get both and then you can actually make your own kind of clean Cedarwood cord by having something like say like four parts verto fix and one part Cedarwood or something like that so finally this where it gets a bit tricky um the thing with the Woody notes is honestly they're requireed a lot of different things you may want to have um so IID say pick one of these free if you if not you know you could even get all free but I would say try to pick one of these so firstly you've got yugino as an option now this is not purely a woody note it's a bit of a spicy note as well but I didn't want to have any like a spicy category for this uh raw materials set because I think there are a lot of good spicy notes you can have but I wouldn't say they're exactly what you need as a beginner unless you really are a big like fan of spicy notes so eugeno is probably the like most canonical spicy note of all and this one is found naturally in cinnamon CL loes and it's a very warm like Woody spicy smell that you probably recognize instantly it's useful especially in Christmas time Accords because you know it's often use around Christmas as a spice um but you can use it really in a lot of things you can actually use it in certain fruit and flour Accords as well so it's very useful raw material now if you like more traditional perfumes and you want to focus in on your say sheas and fuet and you like something that's a bit darker bit more routy bit more earthy and still quite warm then I'd recommend picking V essential oil which is actually one of probably the most like traditional notes again in perfumery so this one would be another good option I find it can be a little bit difficult to work with sometimes doesn't necessarily fit in every composition um but you know it's a really like important note to have as a perfumer so this could be another one you could choose then finally uh you can also pick a sandalwood note because this is another big category of Woody notes um so if you can afford Sandalwood essential oil then that would be great um that stuff can be very nice but I would say always stick to good quality suppliers and when you stick to good quality suppliers sound or can get really expensive so if you can't do that but you still want a sandwood note then probably um the best thing to do would be just like in the Cedarwood case how instead of Cedarwood As Natural you can get verto fix which is like I call the clean modern molecule um that you can use for a Cedarwood note for Sandalwood there something called back tunel and you can go and get that and it's like a clean modern Sandalwood note doesn't capture obviously all the complexity of Sandalwood but it does a pretty good job of actually you being able to put in your formula and get a nice Sandalwood impression for what is you know like an inexpensive molecule so that's what I recommend for the Woody notes pick one of those free or if you want you know just get all of them so now we're on to the florals now floral category is very big and very important in perfumery and you'll find floral notes actually very important in creating the heart often in the midn notes of your perfumes they can be really important in helping them to kind of project and have a little bit of volume so you actually notice the perfume uh when someone's walking you around and even if you don't want to have a Flor note in your perfume you may still add little bits of floral um floral notes just to help your perfume perform like you want it to perform so the first one the classic absolute most famous like the ISE super of the floral notes is one called Hedon now this one is very diffusive transparent note you can use it to really construct out the structure of your perfumes and you can use it in most perfumes honestly and it's quite a sweet floral note and it stems from a bit of a Jasmine side of things so it also obviously works really well with Jasmine Accords um but it's not actually limited to that you can use it in a lot of different cases next I would recommend getting some kind of Rose thing so you'll see with a lot of these florals um you can usually get a natural not always but usually a natural which is very expensive and then you can also make your own version via an accord however as this is a beginner kit I think that's a little bit too advanced at this stage and requires too many raw materials so to keep it simple it's easier to actually just go and use a version of the notes now for all of these I'll give you more expensive or less expensive version so for Rose if you can afford the real essential oil or absolute they're both a bit different but realistically doesn't matter which one you pick um that would be great however not everyone can afford that I didn't for a long time when I started and if you can't do that then simply buy Rose Basse there's some really good ones out there like fish's rosessence base or Jan's Rose jco base and they do a really good job actually in the formula and they are a nice rose smell so you can just use one of those instead next um same thing for Orange Blossom um or or narrow so if you can get narrowly essential oil or orange blossom absolute or something like that yeah that's great um but if not you can use orano which is you know a big component often of the chords to make um those notes so you can just use that instead and you can still kind of construct um colog with it which are a classic type of citrus perfume that often use these notes or you can even use it in other perfumes as well next we got Violet so actually um they found that a lot of the smell of violets comes from these molecules called the ionones and there are loads of different ones but they all smell very similar so I really think as a beginner and a begin kit you just want to get one doesn't really matter which one um but I recommend meth iron and Gamma and that's because you can use this one to make that famous grman Accord I was talking to about a little bit earlier when we were talking about the galaxolide um that one also has the hone and the I super from before but if you want you can pick a different ion so beta ion is maybe one of my favorite ones and that's got a bit more of a Woody raspberry leaning note to it and but there are loads of other ones you can pick from as well now in perfumery Lily molecules are very important but there's also a lot of them and a lot of them smell quite similar there is definitely variation between them and you know different ones have different directions but um I would just pick one and the one I would recommend is uh called floral and this one is I just think the best like um in the similar how effen brasset I felt like for the musks it's this great inexpensive musk you can use all the time and it's just about in the middle it's just like your perfect generic one for me floral is like that for the Lily molecules however there's different things you can pick as well you can both use these in the future to make your own Lily a cord but these are really useful um actually when you're making perfumes I find they're very useful and if you want to freshen up a perfume and help it radiate a bit without actually adding a more let's say a floral with more personality something like a rose or an orange blossom can make your perfume smell more strongly in that direction whereas Lily molecules are a lot more soft and subtle so you can throw them in without having to make the perfume smell like a lily or if you want to go for a lily smell then you could use that as a centerpiece of your perfume and then use other notes like maybe hon and you know some lighter kind of fresh notes to you know help balance it out then finally I would say try to pick a Jasmine note so Jasmine is the other really big floral and perfumery if you can afford Jasmine absolute that's fantastic um if you can't then Poor Man's Jasmine they used to say it's something called elong elong now I don't really like this myself um it's a much cheaper flow um I think it smells a bit like an aned kind of smell but you know traditionally that was something that was used often to replace Jasmin so you can pick that otherwise um you know you can use something like Hedon and then you could use a Jasmine base if you want to get a Jasmine Basse that's very good too or if not um you can also use Benz or Sal silate and this isn't really as a replacer for Jasmine but this can also give you it's a blender that's often used with Jasmine so you can kind of get that now and then get Jasmine later um and it can also be used up in a lot of other types of perfumes to kind of you know help structure the perfume so it's another thing that's can be nice to have right so next I thought we would add some fruity or tropical notes into the kit so for this firstly I decided to pick anos sahide uh now this is a little bit of a cherry note but it's not super Niche like just if you want cherries because if you did that then you probably pick Benz alide Anis alide is a mid tobas note so it lasts a long time and it leans in that heliotropin direction so that thing I was talking to you about before um that makes it quite nice and useful for Fruity floral perfumes you could make uh sweeter fruity perfumes out of it you could make sweet perfumes out of it floral perfumes out of it depending on what you use it with so it's this nice kind of um it's a very complex the Nuance smell but I think it's really nice and I think a lot of you guys will think it's really nice as well it's got a cherry facet to it but it's got a floral facet a little bit of a like almost a hayik facet to it um as well and it's also got a bit of a sweetness but it's you know it's not too overbearingly sweet either um now another thing I think is good to have is either alide c18 or c14 so these are um quite widely used notes um alahh c18 smells a bit more like coconuts whereas alahh c14 smells a bit more like peaches so it doesn't really matter which one you pick but the thing about these two notes is they aren't actually technically chemically speaking alahh tides they're technically lactones and they give your perfume this lactonic effect and this can be very useful to create this kind of soft um you know it's quite a Creamy Feeling to your perfumes they work very well with Jasmine notes um also if you want to make a panina colada kind of tropical style effect you can use them in that so I think it's good to have one of these at least so you know what kind of effect they can add to your perfume and then finally I thought um maybe the most canonical or widely known famous tropical note is CIS space 345b by fish now there are a lot of tropical notes you can use um but c space has been you know perfected by perfumers at femish one of the uh biggest perfumery companies in the world and they've kind of honed in the smell it's meant to be black Curr Bud smell so not actually a picture of a passion fruit which I've put here um but you can really use it for any tropical smells like mangoes passion fruits guavas uh black current buds that kind of thing and it's this lovely blend of these different tropical molecules so you can go and buy these separately if you like that kind of thing make your own tropical smells um but you know if you're going to pick one thing for a startkit I think Cass space is very nice and easy to use and it can give you a nice tropical smell to or perfume so yeah and with that we've covered pretty much uh well we've definitely covered 30 raw materials so those are the ones I recommend now you can go beyond this of course there's those more categories that I haven't covered in this video and in this sta kit and and I think you know these are all things you can go and explore later and get into for example you've got green grassy Sals and animalic smells some of these can be like you know sheep's wool or like very comforting smells um some of them can be a bit more like uh let's say nasty um you've got like fresh air kind of smells theic smells alderic smells these are like you know fresh clean soapy things and there's way more categories that I haven't even touched on now I will um you know like I said before I'm going to touch on categorization in much more detail in my online course um but as a beginner I think that you know just looking at all the ones that I went through um I think those raw materials looking at them in terms of those categories can work really well for you and I think you can get very far um you know by taking note of all the things I said about those raw materials getting those raw materials and you be able to make a lot of cords and also make some decent perfumes out of them so if you're looking to purchase any of these raw materials um like I said at the start of the video and the whole idea for me originally making this kit was I really wanted to make like what I thought would be the best beginner starter kit um and since I've got the online store the fragrance Foundry where I sell perfumer equipment I thought I would add that starter kit onto that online store so to make that happen I've actually been working with um a supplier called Harrison Joseph which one of my favorite perfum re Ro material suppliers um I buy a lot of my stuff from them actually and I worked with them to go and make the starter kit for the fragrance Foundry so they produced these starter kits and we work together to make essentially pretty much all of the raw materials in this video at least the 30 core once and we've got that starter kit now available online if you're in the UK you can purchase that from the fragrance Foundry website or you can also go and get it from the Harrison Joseph website and if you don't live in the UK then good news because Harrison Joseph ships internationally so on the fragrance Foundry page there will be a link to the page on the Harrison Joseph website so you can go and purchase of that anywhere in the world pretty much now you don't have to get these raw materials uh from us of course uh you can go and get them anywhere you want so if there it's not convenient for you to buy it from here um I think we've done it really good value so honestly I don't know if you about to get them this cheap anywhere else I kind of doubt it um but you know you can go anywhere else to buy these so like perfumes Apprentice for example is another good online store U if you're in Europe there's like things like pcw the hexar there's a lot of different options check out my main perfume recourse video on a full list of suppliers now what I will say though is make sure you use a quality uh raw material supplier so this is a supplier specifically tailored to selling perfumery raw materials and the reason for that is there are loads of different essential oils you can find on the internet and but i' say 95% of those are not of the quality level that you want to have for perfumery so usually a lot of these are way more like Mass Market um you know made in like big extractions they're lower grade and they're not really I would say um the level of quality you want if you're making a fine fragrance perfume a lot of them are used in like a lot of Cheaper products and for aromotherapy and other things like that so make sure you are buying wherever you choose to buy from a quality perfumery raw material supply same even for synthetics some of these synthetics you'll actually notice the difference in quality between a bad quality supplyer and a good quality supplier can be very big so again refer to the suppliers list on the raw materials section of my perfumer guide that'll be link to that in the description and if you just want to make sure you know if you don't want to worry about it and just get like you know know you're getting the right stuff good quality stuff then you can just purchase the kit on the fragrance foundry.com anyway so there you have it so these are my 30 beginners raw materials so in the future I'm going to be doing some more videos with this kit of raw material matal so if you got those raw materials you might be able to follow along essentially I'm just going to be like if you get this kit um once you got all these raw materials what do you do with them and what are your first steps and I'm also going to be giving you some advice on different things you can actually blend with uh this kit so some of the things I talked about in this video for example maybe like a Shea or an Amber cord some other stuff um I'll explain to you how you can use this kit and actually go and blend those up and then you know with that you're pretty much getting started doing perfumer so I hope you enjoyed this video if you liked it uh be sure to give it a like And subscribe to the channel for more videos just like this and see the future videos that I come out using the kit and until then good luck with your perfumery and I'll see you next [Music] time

Channel: Sam Macer

Views: 39,999

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Id: ZtpRaN61MLA

Length: 44min 20sec (2660 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 15 2024