How to make a wooden hinge Dave Stanton

Dave here how are you today I'm going to show you how to build a hinge from wood that's exactly what I've done with this blanket box that I've just finished building there it is there Timber hinge stick with me I'll show you how to do it if you like what I'm doing give me a thumbs up and subscribe to the channel it's really easy and it costs you nothing it's easier than you think this is the piece of stock that I'm going to create the lid for a box and it is 18 millimeters thick this could be three quarter it could be half inch it could be 10 millimeters it could be 12 millimeters it really doesn't matter but this particular one is 18 millimeters the first thing we need to do is create a hollow and also another piece that is around these will end up marrying into each other to create the hollow I used a three-quarter inch nosing bit I just took it so that there was about a millimeter of flat either side when I put this over the router table very important because if you take the full amount out as you're pushing down there'll be nothing to support as it's coming out on the outfeed of the router table now that you have the hollow done put that to the side we create the route and how I created the round on this was I used a 3 8 Round over cutter I ran it through the router table on one side and then I turned the piece over and ran it through on the other side I spent a little bit of time adjusting it and I had my Hollow there waiting and I could just keep on popping them in and checking until I had a perfect match now the same thing's going to happen if you're using half inch stock use a half inch nosing bit and a quarter inch round over easy these are 50 millimeters wide or very close to it so I needed to use some stock that was longer than 1100 millimeters long because I'm going to lose around three millimeters per cut now there's around 20 of these Knuckles so 20 times three is about 60 millimeters I'm going to lose in sawdust so make sure you've got enough actually make sure you've got a bit more than that so you can cut a few spares it's handy we've got our round over created on that length now we're going to rip it to width and that's this width here the knuckles of the hinge are going to be required to do a fair bit of work so give yourself a little bit of space at the back here because also we're going to cut this part into being a receiver for the knuckle I'll show you what I mean in a minute so I made mine about 30 millimeters wide next thing to do after I've ripped 30 millimeters on the table saw so I've got a really nice long length of this particular profile then I'm going to set up my table saw sled I'll put a stop lock it on with a clamp I'll cut the end off to start just so I've got a nice Square end and then I'll feed the timber across to the stop I use a pencil with an eraser on the end to hold the piece of stock in position and then trim it as each piece comes off use your pencil and write on it so I just wrote number one on that one the second one it comes off I'll write number two number three number four and so on and pile them all up doesn't matter if I put them out of order because they're all numbered there's a reason now once I've done all that I then take this over to the drill press and I make a jig Now The Jig has got to be able to hold this perfectly so that when the drill enters the wood it's going to be dead center of that Circle so this we've got a semicircle here 80 millimeters wide nine millimeters to the center of the circle of half the width of the Timber and nine millimeters down from the point of the arc from the from the arc so that's going to be dead center so no matter where this rotates in the hinge it will always be pivoting from the center of the circle that we've created for the hinge okay so the drill press you have to set this up so it's perfectly perpendicular it's going to go down straight your fence and your jig have to hold this bit of wood perfectly straight up and down it can't be tipping over at all it can't be tipping this way at all make a jig glue The Jig together with this sitting in the center of it at the perfect position put some stops in either side glue them on to the backing board let that dry so every time you put another piece in to the drill press it's going to put that hole in exactly the right position I used a quarter inch drill and I've got quarter inch down for my hinge once you've got all these cut then we can move on to ripping this piece our Hollow so we feed in the knuckles onto our dowel you can see they're going in nicely so we have our pieces fed on feed them on in the order that you wrote on them one two three Etc here's the interesting part we get our section with the hollow in it put on the table and I'll turn it around this way for you so you can see it easily we put it beside it like so can you see it there I've got that one piece there Slide the up the next knuckle up to it and roll it over like so where that knuckle is we can now put a little pencil mark on there I'll bring it up and show you so there you can see we bring the knuckle up and pull it up against there and you can see I've got the pencil line we're going to rip to that width on the table saw right the way along next we have to create the easing section on the back of the hollow and I do that by setting the table saw to 15 degrees minus the left hand tilde so I'll tip it over at 15 degrees and I'll lower the blade down so it's only protruding above the table by nine millimeters then I get Vents and I put it onto the left hand side of the blade I'm not going all the way through my plan is to come halfway up this is important this is what I don't normally have my fancy on the left hand side it's normally on the right hand side I set the width of the fence to the blade by doing a test I just do a little test cut where that pencil line is that's what I want to cut off now that will allow my hinged piece of wood to go past 90 degrees by 15 more 15 degrees more you can set whatever angle you want you can go to go to zero or 90 and so the hinge will only open to 90. now you're going to take this ripped piece of stock that's got the relief cut into it to the table saw sled and you have left the stop in exactly the same position don't touch that leave the clamp on it slide the piece of hollow along dock the end off to start get it nice and square then do exactly the same process as I did before number them doesn't hurt as they come off one two three holding the piece with a pencil with the Eraser on the end stack them all up put them to the side now the next part this is so easy we're going to get some blue tape every second knuckle we're going to rotate over pull them all up nice and tight and put some blue tape over the whole lot to hold them steady it's an idea to have some baking paper or something like that underneath so you don't get glue all over the place put it on a board of some sort so that it's not going to have the knuckles all over they've got to be perfectly flat run glue right the way along the receiving piece on both sides and then it's a matter of piece of wood on that side as well clamp it all up I'm not going to tell you how to clamp it up don't put too much pressure on it just put them in now remember every second knuckle is going to be rotated over so the number is not going to be showing to you now this is important so you'll have one will show two will be not shown it'll be flipped over three will be showing up to you four will be flipped over five showing up and so on this is important because that will maintain the Grain in the same direction we're not going to turn the piece of wood around backwards we're just turning it over now that we've got it clamped try and leave all the top open if you put too much pressure on the board might pop don't put too much pressure on now what we've got to do is we've got to get all of the parts of the receivers and we're going to glue across the back and we're going to push them in alternating all the way down so and they will set up Proud by one or two millimeters that's fine leave them like that don't put too much pressure on just push them in so that the glue is going to squeeze out a little bit at the back let it dry sand it all down take the loose pin out and then get a pencil sharpener and sharpen the end like an arrow that'll make it a whole lot easier when you try and put the pin back in this is such a simple way of creating a Timber hinge if you like what I'm doing give me a thumbs up and subscribe to the channel it's really easy and it costs you nothing there's a link down there click on it and click on it again once you've subscribed and the bell icon will come up click on notify all and anytime I do a video you'll get an email saying Dave's doing something on YouTube fine all right thanks for watching and I shall see you next time bye this is so much I love this stuff I love it

Channel: David Stanton

Views: 17,754

Keywords: hinge, wood hinge, wood hinges diy, how to wood hinge, how to make wood hinge, diy wood hinge, dave stanton, dave stanton woodworking, festool, woodworking for mere mortals, woodworking art, woodworking, david stanton, wood working, how to, do it yourself, carbatec, tso products, easy woodworking, stanton bench, carpentry, wooden hinge, diy woodworking, hinges, wooden hinges, how to make, woodworking tips, wood hinges, diy, wood, box with wooden hinges, how to make wooden hinges

Id: SIssx3Qt0ik

Length: 11min 13sec (673 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 29 2023