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[Music] hi welcome back now as you saw in the thumbnail uh this is quite big chunk of elm and uh now I was planning on making a live AG a bow out of it nice tall one uh however the bark has come loose and it's quite detached let's say so it's better sense to remove it now as you can see that goes in whole chunk away instead of spinning it on the LA and then you have these kind of chunks flying off [Music] so okay so whenever I'm making this kind of live AG bowls I always try to get all of the outside exposed now to get to that stage I have to flip this uh Bowl blank few times around this is that stage so first I want to roughly uh bring this Corners down a little bit and make a ten so I can flip it around and make a recess on the top and you'll see that all in a just a few seconds uh so here I'm using uh 12 mil uh B gouge uh from Crown this is m42 B gouge uh now the reason I'm using m42 uh steel here is because the regular M2 Steel on this particular Elm with all of the minerals in it um just dolls the tool really really fast so um this is much better choice of of Steel uh in this particular case so uh you can see I've already removed a lot of corner here and now I'm just making a Tenon rough Tenon doesn't have to be anything uh precise in terms of size at this stage so all I have to do is now make a Tenon and now I'll remove the tail stock and this is the next stage just remove this knob so I can put it in a Chuck and this is Wick Mark VM 100 truck with uh step jum do and this will nicely grip on the bottom of the bowl and you can see I still have all of the corners here left so the next stage is to make recess on the top a lot of different ways you can do this I like to hug out the the vast majority of the of the wood with the B gouch and then use squaring scraper to just flatten it a little bit on the bottom and get a real ly straight side of this recess so I can pivot the the ball blank if I need to adjust for the for the rim and you'll see later in the video I actually got quite lucky uh because the rim of this ball blank is actually quite uniform so uh this is the bigger VM 120 chuck with shark jaws and you can see here the recess and that just goes over the Chuck and you expand in it and and that's really good hold now at this stage uh I'm still using tail stock until I remove the the corners and uh here I actually switched to 16 mil diameter uh B gouge again m42 steel it just holds the edge much longer on this particular M usually I don't have problems with M2 steel uh on most other species but on this um the M2 just dos really really quickly so usually here at the top of the edge of the rim it's better to go from the top down just to avoid any breakout so you can see here that process and of course uh once you get the b blank nicely rounded you can increase the speed gradually and just check if everything is nice and stable and like I said I got quite lucky uh with the alignment here at the rim and you want this to get relatively balanced or balanced as best as you can so I'm aligning the highest points and the lowest points so they are all equal and in this case they are so here I decided on the size of the foot which will be decorative foot and it's roughly 1/3 and uh that actually fit uh slightly big BG ger than uh any of my Chuck that I have to grip this size so um there will be marks and I have to return this later and this is just chewing up the bottom and uh now this is something that many beginner Turners have trouble with and that is nice push cut or what I like to call that I learned from my mentor Richard raon and that is sheer cut so it's a cut that you ride the bevel the nose bevel and uh what I like to always teach is just go slowly Don't Force anything let the wood come down to the tool let the wood uh and the Tool uh do its thing uh so don't force anything so just go slowly and it should be okay so this is the general shape here the the sides and everything it's not too bad and this is the first time we can look the complete grain it's a really and lovely lovely grain and especially this part where the spalting is so I'm just taking one more pass here at the rim and uh just continue on all the way to the top now in this case I'll noticed that uh I can go from the bottom to the top in one motion and avoid any breakage here at The Rim which is always a good thing so nice and steady without any Rush here especially at The Rim just let the wood and the tool do its thing [Applause] now what I found out on this particular Elm that grows here in Croatia I get the best possible surface with the spear Point scraper uh not even a sheer cut using a b gou gets me better surface so um I use this spear Point scraper just to remove any knobs or any uh hicup that I had when using B gouch so just lightly go over the surface and just smooth out any imperfections now like I said this Elm is green or wet wood and uh what I like to do is I always sort of surface dry with using old sandpaper and that gives me a better chance to actually sand while it's still wet and you'll see what happens after a few minutes in this clip here you can see I already got a nice cloud of dust coming off the surface so it really pays off to sort of surface dry first with old sandpaper and then use a fresh one to uh actually sand the surface so that's what I'm doing here and you can see a lovely cloud of dust coming off and this is the final step in sanding and that is SC R pad it's actually quite fine I think it's for stainless steel this sort of the surface and removes any sending marks and you can see here this outside is nicely done so we don't have to do much after so now it's time to flip it around and I'll use this same 120 chuck with shark jaws and just tighten this a little bit you don't need to crank it right down there's no point in doing that so the next stage is to drill a depth hole and uh I will actually go all the way to the wooden handle here so just nice and steady um pull it out a few times to get rid of the Shaving so it doesn't build up and uh spin it in your hand so that's not very pleasant so I just nice and steady and now we off to hollowing uh here I'm using again 16 mil diam B gou m42 steel from crown and um now I've seen a lot of issues here with beginners especially when they are close to the center of the ball they tend to push real hard and you really have to avoid doing that the wood in the center is moving uh much slower than on the outside or at the perimeter of the bowl so just uh slow down your feed rate let the wood come down to the tool and do its business so cutting and or scraping just let the wood do its thing so so here I'm just removing the bulk of the wood on the inside leaving the steps on the bottom that always helps out uh when you need to continue down a little deeper and you can see a lovely trail of shavings coming off and I'm using here actually all of the right wing and uh but if I feel uh there is increase in in vibration or any different sound then I back off the the gouge and uh split the The Cutting so I SP in half or third if I have to so you have to adapt on the Fly let's say so this is the first Peak to see how the surface is working here and uh it's not the best surface not the worst uh but what I'll have to do is sharpen the gouge for the last pass let's see and uh this is actually what's happening here so this is one of the two last passes let's say um so I'm trying to get the nice even thickness here going nice and slow especially at The Rim where you're cutting air and wood at the same time so just take your time and follow the outside from profile of the bowl and at the end of the cut here I actually close the flute a little bit so I don't cut with a whole of the right wing at that bulk at the bottom here so always a good time to clean the shavings From the Bench here and that's really better much better surface uh with the sharpened up gouge so um there is a little bit more thickness at the bottom so uh but the thickness at the top of the rim is actually quite good so I'll continue on just a little bit below the top surface and um I'm watching at around 4 5:00 at the Bowl here what's happening because I can't see at the very cutting tip so and uh now we can go slightly deeper once we got the rim thickness sort of established and uh it's done so we're not going come back to that surface again and here you actually can see really well where the shavings come from in terms of uh tool Edge and I always start with the tool slightly closed so the flute is facing let's say 3:00 once I get into the wood I opened it up a little bit to 2:00 and uh that always helps out with the starting the cut although I have a grooves here set from previous cuts uh but it always is a good practice to to have now since I'm here at the bottom of the depth hole it's a good practice to always double check where your bottom is here so I use this uh key from the Chuck just to double check where I am so I know how far I have or how much room I have to play so here I'm just blending the curve roughly I'll get a nice finishing cut once I sharpen the gouch and the thickness here is 6 mil and at the bottom is roughly 12 mil so I have to take a little bit more towards the bottom and I want to get this sort of even thickness and uh you see I go a little further up and this sort of dance with the bevel that is what I like to call is to find the cut and you project the curve from the top uh all the way to the bottom and this is still a rough process I still have maybe one more cut to do again finding the cut and the shavings are in the way so I sort of rub them off and then find the bevel once I get the very tip engaged and start cutting that's my sort of uh Good Steer in terms of bevel where I want to go and then just nice smooth curve to the bottom and I want to double check one more time where I am in terms of thickness and uh if the grain is working if I don't have any major uh chip out or anything like that so the the surface is quite okay and the thickness is actually spot on so basically the even 6 mil thickness all the way to the bottom and here I'm using a bolt scraper just to blend that final a little piece of of Timber that is left at the bottom and blending it to the side and here you have to have that negative 90° from the top of the tool to the surface you're scraping otherwise you'll have a catch so just be aware of that and uh that's the inside all done ready for sanding and uh that's nice flowing curve and same as on the outside I surface dry here with the old sandpaper just to get the surface moisture of the wood and then I use the the drill attachment and sand everything nice and smooth and this is the final step with the Scot bra pad just a little buffing and uh removing any scratches and uh this is Step that many Overlook but if you don't have the bar here The Edge I like to send away any remnants of the loose stuff or bark or anything so here I'm not changing the shape I'm leaving as the nature uh build it or make it I'm just lightly go over with um 180 GD on the drill attachment here and uh just scuff it up a little bit and here just sanding it and always I always um break the edges here as so they're not sharp and you actually have to test this a little bit so just use your hand try it out a little bit so go over all the surface if anything cut up sand it away a little bit and that's sort of a mark of a good in my opinion a good Bowl so the next stage is to just clean up any marks from the Chuck and I could go for a nice diameter for the that specific Chuck uh but this process doesn't take too long so uh just aligning the bowl so it runs nice and through and um I have on the Chuck wooden pad with a paper towel that prevents marring the inside and here on the outside have a little wooden block or pad that prevents the cone from digging into the foot here so just here above the foot I want to blend this ever so slightly there is a little hump here you just go lightly with a small spindle gouch this is 10 m diameter spindle gouch and just go lightly to the very top of the foot and uh here I'm just trimming the foot itself to remove any remnants of the teeth of the Chuck and you always want to do something with the very bottom itself now here it's easiest way to do uh just a simple Groove so after this little she cut cleaning the surface of the bottom and actually making it slightly concave so only the rim of the foot will sit on the table here you see I'm cutting that Groove so two cuts on the left side two cuts on the right side make a nice V GL and again just a little bit of sanding here at the bottom just to blend everything and uh just polish it as the inside and the outside surface with the scotch bre pad and that now that's ready for the oil I forgot about this step actually uh there was a little knob at the very center of the foot so here I'm just using the drill attachment and just sending it away with the uh 360 GD sandpaper so that really doesn't take too long just a few passes and uh that's done now it will be ready for the oil you can see uh the finished bowl without any oil or anything uh once I put the oil on this will all pop out and uh really uh sort of brings to life uh now before that I want to put this in the microwave and dry it out completely uh because this is around 6 mil thickness so that should be uh just a few minutes in a microwave and you can see here the bottom the foot so that's the next stage and uh I'll do that off the camera and show you the final results it's always nice to actually sign your work and uh I didn't notice uh when I start to write with this biography pen that I had the ball a little off in in the center Shot here of the camera so uh bear with me for a few seconds so I write my name my first name my last name the type of wood and the the year that it was made so uh this is Elm 2024 and you can see that's in my opinion much better look than from the stamp that many makers do now this oil I like to use uh is from Steiner company and it's I believe lined oil with a lot of wax in it and a little chunk of dried wax actually filled in so you'll see now how the this oil really brings the the wood to life so really nice stuff now a little less than a year ago I was rough turning this Elm and uh the rest of it I put it on a shelf and just let it dry uh naturally but this one I put in a plastic bag and put it in a corner of my shop and I actually forgot it uh just before the other day uh when I was cleaning the shop and uh uh you can see the sort of this process when you put the wood in a plastic bag most of the wood will Decay or rot away uh but if you stop it in time and uh if the fungus will uh appear like this in this wood here in this Elm uh then you get this lovely uh spalting patch and this lovely discoloration so I'm really pleased with this one how you turned out I'll once I get the more experiments done I'll reveal this technique uh so stay tuned for that so once again thank you for watching my videos thank you for support and uh see you in the next video

Channel: Tomislav Tomasic Woodturning (Dodir Drva)

Views: 53,129

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Id: Q20JXMAZg00

Length: 21min 31sec (1291 seconds)

Published: Sun May 05 2024