Woodwork Project: Making a Wooden Hinged box

hello in this project I'm building a wooden hinged box this is kind of box that might work for pens on a desktop as with a lot of my projects I'm building to the scale based on the wood I have available and I need to have three equal size lengths out of this board first of all I'm going to measure up and cut off one-third a score with a knife and then chisel a recess to help with sorry check the square this will be the front of the box the remaining two-thirds I'm going to plane up now to make sure it has a nice edge this two-thirds is going to make up the back and the lid for the box and I'm going to cut the recess for the hinge while the two-thirds are still joined this way everything will line up so first of all I'm marking the depth of the wood and I'm looking to find the center point this is where the rod for the hinge will go this rod is three millimeters so I measure down half the distance and then half the distance of the rod today using the table saw I cut down to that depth along the edge of the board by cutting both at least two-thirds at the same time I guarantee that everything should line up and make a couple of passes on the table saw because the curve the saw is slightly narrower than the diameter of the rod see that rod fits in the recess there and here's a piece of matching wood sapele in this instance which I've cut down to fit in the recess and cover the rod with a rod in place I'll glue in this piece of wood to cover the hole I gently tap this into place and I just check that the rods move freely and haven't been affected by the glue when everything's glued up I'll remove the rods I'll cut off the excess and I can now plane down as I get closer to the board I adjust the plane to reduce the depth of cut so by the end I'm just taking a very very slight amount once everything is planed flush this filler pieces barely visible but I made a modification on later boxes and rather than cutting the recess in the edge of the wood I actually cut it across the surface like so in this method the Philippe's of wood is even less noticeable and I can also hide it inside the box rather than on the top with everything now ready for the hinge it's time to cut these two pieces to length once again a nice score and chisel to make it easier to crosscut and I have my three pieces they should all be square and all the same length two of which will have the recess for the hinge rod and they start to get this something like this so just to test the hinge I will put the rod in and line up in the back and the lid now it's time to start cutting the shape for the actual hinge so first of all I mark the depth of the lid along the back initially I'll mark up with pencil but as I get ready to make the cuts I'll move on to scoring with the knife I chose a width of three centimeters for the hinge on the back although this is arbitrary and I chose three centimeter just because it looked like a nice size I'm marking up which bit I'm cutting off as I've made that mistake far too many times with everything laid out I'm now marking up with the knife the knife will guide both the saw cuts and the chiseling I'm going to do to remove the excess wood using the square and the knife I transfer the markings to both sides so I can work from both directions who's to gauge to transfer the depth mark ensure it was the same on both sides with the back piece securely in the vise I first chisel against the knife cut there to help guide the saw I cut to just above the depth and I can adjust a final bit later and make a series of cuts along the length of the excess wood just to help with the chiseling and start to remove the excess wood with the chisel around this point my camera ran out of battery but we can all understand what chiseling looks like so this is a backboard with the recess cut I'm then going to measure up and transfer that onto the lid so that I can make a mirror image so the two pieces of the hinge fit together again I start the mark up with pencil and then transfer to a knife and use the square to transfer the markings to both sides of the board this is a simpler process than the back of the hinge as I just cut off the shoulders no need for any chiseling having cut down from the top I can now turn the piece sideways in the vise and cut down from the end to remove the shoulder I'm taking my time is the accuracy of the saw cuts quality bull if I take too much off at this point the hinge will be too loose and those two pieces should fit nicely together now that's a nice tight joint which would be great if we were building a box with an overlapping joint but this is got to be a hinge so first of all let's make sure everything lines up I do this by inserting the rod I'm in attacking quite lightly there so for the hamster function we need to cut away some the excess root which is great on the joint so TVs using the pile and I'm rounding over from the inside pop the box to a couple of MIL in from feedback of the box I do this on the main part of the hinge and also on the hinge shoulders to an inch works it's a little bit tight and a little bit creepy there but we can work that in and just with a little bit more filing and marking up the tight spots I haven't marked out the angle of this curve it's just done by I use a curving stroke here to get it nice and rounded and take off any flat spots depending on how well I've cut things I may have to go back with some tools to this process a few times that's looking much closer now for the hinge basically constructed take this opportunity to do a bit of sanding as once box is constructed sanding the inside of the box is gonna be a little bit difficult and none marking up the height for the front of the box and I'll just play that down to size with the back of front pieces sausage I need to cut the recess in the bottom take the bottom of the box I did this on the table saw unfortunately at this point I realized I dropped a major clang er and I'd actually cut the recess in the lid as well which obviously I didn't intend to do I decided to make a feature of this mistake and I had a small piece of beach lying around from a previous job so I decided to cut this down and use it I simply glue the beach into the lid and clamp it up while it dries the next jobs to cut the end pieces for the box so first of all I rip some beach to the height I want it an N cross cuts two squares for the end with young pieces in position it kind of looks like this again I'm marking up which end is which as I'm going to be measuring and cutting to the dimensions of the job rather than from a plan and this means things should fit nicely when I've got them finished so I mark up the height of the front and then I take the measurements and mark the width of the back and also the top I'm going to recess this about four or five millimeters I want to be left with the recesses in the end pieces that should give me a nice strong joint with everything cut I use a chisel to tidy up the saw marks I never do a basic dry assembly you can see everything in position I check that lid so the beach inlay is nicely glued up now so all that remains is to tidy it up by planing it flat to the end and the top I just smooth it off with a card scraper I give it a nice sanding I actually like the end result so much that I kept this as a feature in future box builds I cut the engine to length just shy of the length of the box and just smooth off any rough bits left by the Soaring I also give the rod a slight coat of wax that will stop the hinge from squeaking and make it easier to open now I have to assemble the hinge before I glue the box together because once the end caps are in place the rod can't be removed a quick last test of the hinge because once this is glued together there's no going back so after a dry assembly with all my clamps ready and start the gluing up process once a glutes in position I'll start a clamp and as I go round I'll check for square to make sure I haven't hauled anything out of shape Wells clamping I can make some slight adjustments as I go I keep checking the lid still opens now I'm happy everything's square I'll leave that to glue up so that's been gluing up for a day now now it's just a question of fitting the bottom I'm using a 4 mil ply as the bottom here so that also can include up that's the construction of the box complete now it's just time for final preparation first of all I'll give you a good sanding all over now I want to round off those front corners again I'll use the file to do this I use a rolling motion with the file to ensure there aren't any flat spots a new sandpaper to smooth everything off and also to break the corners on the rest of the box so nothing is too sharp and I'm gonna finish this box with few layers of Danish Oil which I'll just wipe on initially I'll leave the first layer to dry for a day or so so Saunders other jobs come under the knife sanding before applying another layer I applied three layers overall on this job and the final layer I applied with a fine grade wire wool and here's the finished box this is a variant on that design that are made this time I've inset the front panel a little bit and allowed the lid to overhang I've also added some detail on the bottom to match the overhang of the lid well thanks for watching and please subscribe for more projects

Channel: Adventures In T-Shirts Woodwork

Views: 65,204

Rating: 4.8280659 out of 5

Keywords: woodwork, wood work, project, box, wooden hinge, hinge, pencil box, make, craft, hand tools, caprentry, adventures in t-shirts, how to, home made, woodworking, making, woodworking projects

Id: z0FsrBC7l4I

Length: 25min 25sec (1525 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 05 2017