How to Make a Silicone Glove Mold of a Skull

foreign ERS welcome to grunge haunts and props um my name is Chris Leonardo and if you watched any of my other videos you know that I love skulls so uh today we are going to make a silicone mold of a skull so that we can make a ton of skulls with foam or Loctite expanding foam you can even make resin skulls with a silicone mold um so stay tuned and enjoy the video so just bought this on Amazon I thought it was a cool looking skull and you know I've already made three other molds with it they're kind of getting old and tattered so we're gonna make a new one I'm gonna try the smooth on um brushable silicone this is a this is a little more expensive um but um it's easier to work with and it's intended for this type of mold whereas the the other silicone I purchased is more intended for Block molds so I believe this has a I guess this has a 20 minute pot life so each layer you know I have 20 minutes to apply the silicone and then reapply it so I'm not waiting several days um so to prep the skull you're going to want to put clay in the Deep recesses and any under you know major undercuts so underneath this um skull there are some are underneath this Clay on the skull there's some undercuts under here so we want to minimize that as much as possible by just adding clay you know you want oil-based clay that's sulfur free sulfur will destroy the silicone for whatever reason so you just plot apply the clay you know in the undercuts and this will keep your mold from tearing and also your keep your uh castings from ripping apart when you try to demold them now the only downside is that you know this Clay is going to minimize some of the cool detail that's already on the skull but you can see I did the undercuts under here kind of made a base for this dish so that when you are you know you're going to have your glue mold upside down and you're gonna be pouring in this is where you're gonna pour the silicone performs this little area here and so you want to keep that nice and flat you want to make sure that the you know there's all these undercuts are taken or filled in did some of the nose and the eye sockets as well First Step we're going to use some relief spray this is uh a man release or ease release um it's designed for silicones urethanes so we're going to use this spray it a couple layers of this on here you want even coverage you don't want this to pool up but you want to get it everywhere including the board okay we're gonna do our second coat here it only takes about five minutes for for this to kind of dry okay let that dry and we'll start get this open we've got a you know an A and B and we're mixing equal parts A to B by volume or weight so we don't have to measure we can just do this by volume you really want to shake these up good what's the stuff I use uh you can just get from the dollar store like these are crafting sticks Popsicle sticks um these are a dollar for chip brushes two of them use one of those so I'm just gonna grab a bunch of these sticks because I'm going to be doing several layers also be cutting the rounded part of this so that it's flat so that I can scrape the bottom of the buckets or the cups that I made so that's flat the other thing you really want to do before you get started as well is cut some keys so you can either use some of it and um you can use like something similar to like an ice tray or something you know with smaller little divots that's plastic and you can make keys or if you've got other done other silicone projects you can use you know remnants or scrap pieces of silicone so I always save my silicone in a container that's that doesn't work or there's a failed project or old project and then just use an exacto knife cut keys right out of this is flat okay so we got a little sliver slice of the old silicone now you want to Bevel the cuts on this so that you don't have an undercut when you're trying to put because you're going to be putting plaster on top of this um and if you have it beveled the wrong way it'll just crack and break as you're prying off the plastic or the plaster so so just do a little bevel in it so we need a total of one two three four six keys for the bottom and then I like to do a key on each side of the top okay we got our keys set those aside oh and we need gloves for this this stuff's nasty you don't want it on your skin okay we've mixed up Parts A and B of the rebound 25 now we're going to pour each individual parts into a small container and mix it all in one big container so I've marked on here the level of which you want to put your A and B at start with the B [Applause] like this this is just particle board with a like a malware malware coating on it these are great for silicone silicone does not stick to that coating so you can find them at you know Home Depot Lowe's um and and it you know it's what they use for like closet shelving and stuff like that okay I'm mixing the B first always foreign [Music] and make sure you close up your lids on the hey this starts the clock right so we have 20 minutes starting from right now once you touch these together that's all the time you have you want to mix this very thoroughly every little bit every bit of it mixed together I'm going to scrape the sides scrape the bottom just keep mixing it over and over usually takes about a minute or two to get it all mixed together you want to do it you don't want to whip it then you're getting air bubbles in there you want to just keep working it around the sides and the bottom without whipping it air bubbles are the enemy of silicones so silicone molds and let's just start I'm going to start with the kind of um on these bubbles settle out of this I'm going to start with eye sockets and nose just because of the kind of undercuts so we want to get make sure we have coverage on that and that will limit the amount of bubbles that we get in there so usually what I do is I start at the top let it kind of run in there stipple it the first layer is supposed to be a nice thin layer we're not going to add any thickening agent to this this stuff is really thick also use a straw and just blow on it to get air bubbles out [Music] thank you okay looks pretty good let that dry and we'll come back and do the second coat okay it's actually been about took about 45 minutes to an hour for do a partial cure so we don't want it fully cured which is a six hour mark but we also don't want to still runny you want it to be kind of kind of tacky to the touch when you touch it you don't want to pull it apart um what it is kind of pulling up with on there but I think that's kind of okay as I'm not just on the bottom part so we're ready to go ahead and mix the next round of silicone um normally I would go and put in some vivex which is a thickener thickening agent thixotropic agent um but this stuff's pretty thick already so um I was kind of expecting it to be a little more runny for that first application and I don't know if maybe I've stored it too long or didn't mix it up properly but um I thought I mixed it pretty well so I'm gonna go ahead and just do a whole another second round with with no thickening agent since it's thick already and then we'll we'll do some thicker layers afterwards so let's get started I had just enough in the last batch so I'm gonna go ahead and fill these all the way to the top and do um a little more a little thicker layer [Applause] foreign just doesn't seem like it should be this thick I've never used this product I've used only the blue silicone there that's that's for block molds rather than brush on applications and I just used it for a brush on anyways just because that's what I had um so I haven't used this before maybe it's supposed to be this thick but I mean I could almost just use the popsicle stick to trowel it on right you know without even using the brush but I want to make sure I don't have any bubbles so I'm still gonna use the brush now you would normally want to use a some sort of color tint to change the color in between layers I don't have any um they're kind of expensive and you know it takes a week to two weeks for delivery from smooth on so I just not gonna use it hopefully I'll be making a thick enough picking up layers that it won't be a major deal you're going to want the base to be a little wider than this I've got two more layers to go I need to put the keys in second to last layer that'll be the next layer I want to get these started at least around it and this doesn't have to look pretty on the outside because any excess will just cut off [Applause] foreign okay we are going to be doing our third layer here popsicle sticks again this one's going to be another full um cup full and this time we're going to add a little bit of the 5X thickener I just want to do like a few drops of this stuff it really thickens it up so I got four drops in there and we're already thick so [Music] okay so we're kind of just gonna trowel this stuff on it's pretty thick it's kind of like consistency of icing or for a cake or something like that [Applause] [Applause] so for the keys um so we're gonna have a shell on top of this it's going to be a just a plaster um material but it's going to split open so we want to have three on the bottom to key in on each half so replacing these about a half inch from three quarters of an inch from the actual um master just push those right into the silicone okay now and do three on the other side this is for so the plaster mold will seat properly to or the silicone will see properly with the master mold okay so we got those in there now I want to see the front one in the back one step away from finishing at least the silicone portion so we'll do the fourth layer uh after this dries up Okay so we have waited for the silicone to fully cure and now we are going to do the plaster bandages as a support shell mother mold um probably better off using some sort of um resin mold or hydrocal plaster full plaster but I don't have any of that I have bandages so that's what I'm going to use for this and it'll work for our application Superman I mean I'm I'm an amateur at this I've only done a few molds several resources out there online um you can go to well smooth on it provides a silicone here they had a ton of tutorials and videos how-to videos on their website and um you know do a Google search online Roberts alone he's a master um mold maker he's amazing to watch and you could go to biddy brick in the yard they've got a lot of tutorials a lot of good supplies there too so um you know this is a pretty straightforward easy mold so I'm comfortable doing it and uh I think you could do this pretty easily as well so um so we're going to start with the plaster strips here you want to do these in kind of short strips so then you just fold these into three sections of three Baptists at uh off Amazon pretty inexpensive for these bandages and I've used them a lot and the reason I'm setting these up beforehand um is that you do only have about 15 minutes once you get started before this plaster starts to kick so we kind of want to move fast so the supplies are going to want beforehand set up ready to go you're going to want a bucket of warm water oh right here a bucket of warm water and then and just some fascinating okay so for the first trip again we're gonna do a shell right so it's gonna be an overlapping shell I want the base shell or yeah the first half to be on the front um because I do a lot of half skulls so in those scenarios I don't need to use the back side sometimes you most people would do this you know sideways split I'm going to do it front and back so you take your strips and you're just gonna dunk them into this warm water and start applying it again we're going to work fast okay just a quick ring out we're gonna take the strip fold it in half for your first strip this is going to create a nice seam for your shell that plaster you just kind of rub that in there make sure to get in deep into the keys push that right in there all right I'm going to do a smaller strap I'm just going to repeat this process make sure to hold on to the ends of these strips because once they kind of fold over sometimes just permanently stuck there again these Keys you want to really force that material all around it foreign just push into these crevices and undercuts really want this to get all covered around it you can see this actually feel this is already starting to harden on the top this is what exothermic as well so it has a exothermic reaction when it sets which kind of makes it warm so you when it starts getting warm and heating up then you know you're running out of time you're really just again massaging the plaster into the bandage make it nice and smooth okay we're good and we're gonna let that set and uh do the second half okay we waited about 30 minutes 45 minutes for this um to dry it doesn't have to fully cure um once it's dry to the touch you can apply the second layer second shell um first step is uh plaster is going to really adhere to itself so we need to put Vaseline all along the brake line here make sure you're getting it in the edge too because it will stick and break your mother mold if you don't just rub this liberally all along it make sure you get the base to it down below and I would go about an inch the actual plaster we want about half inch over the overlapping the other shell so we're going to put Vaseline on about a full inch of it just to make sure now we get started with the second shell remember the first one we're gonna fold it so it has a nice seam and place it about a half inch over the other one okay and we're gonna go ahead and let that set okay um I've had time to dry and the plaster is all set so we're gonna try to de-mold this and hopefully we don't have too much trouble find out it's pretty stuck on there okay now we got to get the shell off the shells came off and now we need to cut out the skull of a silicone I realized I was supposed to put two keys on the back and one key in the front because I'm gonna have to cut this silicone here to release to release the skull inside so I kind of messed that up I wasn't thinking forward on that cut it you just use you know exacto knife you don't want to go in a straight line you want to go you know wavy or Jagged line try to just cut as little as possible anytime you're cutting silicone you want to do some sort of jagged or curved line so that the silicone will seat together now I'm going to just slowly pull this off it turned out pretty well you do want to clean up clean out all of the clay and everything that's still stuck in the mold I won't really know until we cast it so let's let's do that all right and that first casting will figure out all this this embedded clay in here as well we're just doing a Loctite foam in this instead of some sort of mixed EAB expanding foam I use mostly lock type easy to get fairly inexpensive you can sand it you can spelled it you can spray paint it things you can't do with this other standing foams okay [Music] when I do this I actually seal it completely I'm doing a full skull to seal it off and that takes longer to cure but it uh it takes longer to cure but it expands more slowly and has more detail so that should work set that over to the side I don't know if you've used Loctite foam before but the uh you don't have to use the whole can at one time so if you use part of the can just clean it off and find your duct tape where is that and just close off the end with duct tape and that will keep for several weeks all right we'll let that expand and we'll come back and see how see how we did okay this is the moment of truth uh we're gonna take this part and demold this lock type foam skull and see how it looks coming off nicely well that looks pretty good so yeah the mold uh works great you know the Loctite has some imperfections and looks like it didn't cure all the way so we've got some bumps in there but um you know picks up the detail really well all the seams in the skull line are there so uh this was a success it isn't might have demolded it a little bit early so we've got a bubble coming out in the eye here but uh looks great so that everything worked out wonderfully and uh we'll be able to make multiple skulls out of this this silicone mold and uh I'm happy with it and here is the final product a silicone skull mold you can now make a ton of skulls on the cheap hey if you enjoyed this content or found it useful please like this video also if you're a Haunter or Halloween Enthusiast consider subscribing to this channel to get updates and notifications anytime we put out new content um thank you for watching and as always happy Hunting

Channel: GRUNGE Haunts

Views: 6,090

Keywords: Haunter, Halloween, Spooky, Scary, Creepy, DIY, How to, How to make, Haunted, Haunt, Haunting, Haunted house, cemetary, Haunted mansion, Gory, Bloody, Bleeding, blood, slime, fake blood, easy blood, blood slime, blood and guts, guts, brains, organs, special effects, special fx, costume, skull, skulls, skull lantern, lantern, skull light, skull pillar, skull fence, cemetery fence, cemetery, foam skull, silicone mold, silicone glove mold, silicone mould, loctite skull, tons of skulls

Id: RCfeJEjWw_I

Length: 41min 41sec (2501 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 28 2023