How to Make a Brick Wall Cutting Board

today I'm going to show you how I made this brick pattern cutting board let's start by marking and cutting several pieces of this walnut board not only I would use my miter saw station for something like this but I have the fence torn apart right now for another project I'm designing now go ahead and rip out strips for the first glue up the width of this piece is just slightly wider than the finished brick is going to be which in this case was about two inches after stealing one of my daughter's lollipops I claimed the pieces down until they were just clean keeping the maximum thickness that I could out of the original six quarter you know started [Music] next I cut the strips that will be the mortar between the bricks the piece was just a little too long to cut with a garage door down so I had to go ahead and open it for this cut and outside you can see all of the rain water from tropical storm and Mehldau which had just belonged through even with the splitter the wood wanted to pinch the blade so I stuck a shin and the kerf to keep it open making these cuts made me finally break down and buy a dedicated rip blade here's a little trick I like to use to make large height adjustments on my planer quickly now how thick you make your mortar strips is entirely up to what you think looks good but I like to make them a quarter of an inch which incidentally is as thin as I can go on this planer [Music] [Music] [Music] I measure the strips to find the center promptly miss mark the center by an inch and then stack them up so that I can cut them to the wrong lane fall at one time thankfully the shorter half of the strip's was still plenty long enough for what I needed the last piece in this glue-up needs to be half the width of the other pieces so that when you alternate them you get that birth wall effect since I made the main pieces 2 inch I'm cutting this one down to 1 inch since I cut the brick from 6 quarter stock in the mortar from 8 quarter stock I went ahead and trim the maple pieces down so that I would have a flat even glue up after applying the liquid polyvinyl acetate bonding agent in the most inefficient manner I could think of I alternated the walnut and maple strips finishing with the 1 inch thick piece you can see I forgot to trim down that last maple strip and it sticks above the rest of the board let us knock it down with a hand plane once it was dry after the board's out of clamps I Square up one end on the crosscut sled and then cross cut the entire board in half to make the blanks I need to make two different cutting boards since the board is too wide to run through the planer with the grain and I don't have a drum sander I use the router sled to keep this side nice and flat clamping my dust collector hose near the side of the sled was only mildly successful at keeping down the horrendous mess that this thing makes [Music] okay use the router sled to plane this all down flat and I wanted to show you a mistake that I made that I would made before and didn't learn my lesson the first time that is pretty easy to do when it was in the glue up one of my maple pieces shifted upwards while I was clamping it and got out of position like this and that meant that when I was planning this all down flaps I had to take out quite a bit more wood than I intended to get it all even again so these pieces are as you can see a fair bit thinner then I was originally going to make them though I did cut these oversize because I knew I was going to have to plan them down that's not really a problem it'll just be whatever it wants to be whatever size it ends up being is the size it's going to be and we're not going to worry about it but in the future for my reference and yours use calls across the top to keep everything flat and that won't be a problem so the next thing to do is going to be to turn it this way and rip our strips along the fence and cut it up into sections like this and turn them up on its ingrain and then we will make the mortar going the other direction the width that you cut these strips is going to determine the finished thickness of your cutting board in this case I did an inch and 3/4 so that after planing I would have a finished board thickness of about an inch and five-eighths you you so another common mistake that people make is on this second mortar piece you need a long skinny piece here so people will take a long skinny rip out of their mortar material and stick it in like that and say well how else would you do it the problem with this is you have the grain in this running up and down and the grain in this piece is running left and right and you don't want to cross up your grain patterns depending on who you listen to at worst it'll make the entire board crack and fall apart which you know I've seen pictures of at best if it doesn't crack and come apart it will have differential expansion and contraction enough that you feel the bumps so you're going to have raised mortar pieces because this stuff is going to want to expand this way this stuff is going to be fairly stable along its ingrained dimension so what you do to combat that you take several pieces of wood and this is a scrap I had from another cutting board I did and you glue them together kind of like you're making a you know tabletop glue up and then you rip thin pieces out of it this way and then turn it up on edge and obviously you'd need to rip that again to make it thinner but that will give you in grain mortar strips so that everything goes the same direction I cut off a piece of maple plain one side flat cross cut it in half square it up the edges and then glued it together to make a wide piece once that was out of the clamps I squared up the ingrain on one side using the crosscut sled so I have a smooth face to run against the fence I used one of the strips I had already cut to set the fence distance so that my maple strips I'm about to cut will be the same height and right there is where I realized I forgot to put the splitter back in so I turned the saw off and put it back on safety first or at least in the top 5 because of the shape of the board this looks like a rip cut that the end of rain is up against the fence so I'm using my crosscut blade once I had that board cut into strips I turned it in 90 degrees so the end grain is facing up and down and ripped it into quarter-inch strips to match the other quarter inch mortar pieces I had already cut these thin strips had enough flex in them going through the saw blade that it didn't really leave a glue Riddhi surface so I wrapped some sandpaper around the block and gave him a quick touch-up to remove the rough spots this is another application that a drum sander would be perfect for once I was done sanding those pieces would do another glue up which was very much like the first glue up except that instead of running [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] we'll take care of them later I think you're making stuff up now [Music] [Music] I like to do the handle with a half-inch core box bit the formula for how far apart your stops need to be is the width of the board plus the width of the handle centered on the bit don't forget to adjust your fence so that it's centered on the thickness as well [Music] the surface right off of the router sled is very flat but because of the way the bit works you end up with these ridges right here and while that is completely flat to the touch right here it leaves a line there and the reason that is is because when this router bit is spinning through here like this it's compressing these fibers in this direction and they all kind of layover that way and then when I make the pass on this side it's compressing fibers in this direction I might be able to minimize that by taking smaller passes but I am incredibly impatient so the only good way to get rid of these is to sand and since I am incredibly impatient I am going to go with 60 grit on this 90 millimeter Rotex sander the reason that I am going to use a 90 millimeter Rotex instead of the 150 millimeter Rotex is because I don't own a 150 millimeter Rotex you can do this with just any random orbit sander I've done it plenty of times with my five inch rigid but it just takes forever I have this so I'm going to use it there are a few very small knots on one side of the board sweat has filled them with some five-minute epoxy in the mail almost invisible when the board was finished my treatment on boards is a one-eighth inch roundover bid but I almost went rebellious on this one and did a 45 degree chamfer almost I wiped the board with a damp rag to raise the grain so I can sand it back down again with 220 so that when I all the board later the grain does not raise and give me a rough finished surface you didn't think I was gonna let you get a sneak peek did you I was planning on doing a nice quiet oiling but my daughter decided that was the perfect time to bust through the door and yell about how much she loved Elsa so enjoy this nice guitar music instead [Music] [Music] I hope you enjoyed this video if you did leave it a thumbs up if you didn't leave it a thumbs down consider subscribing and I'll see you next time take care [Music]

Channel: Brandon Hartman - Woodworking

Views: 32,528

Rating: 4.9281435 out of 5

Keywords: cuttingboard, cutting board, woodworking, brick pattern cutting board, how to make a brick pattern cutting board, how to make a cutting board, end grain cutting board, how to make an end grain cutting board, maple, walnut, brick cutting board, end grain, brick wall cutting board, how to make a brick wall cutting board, maple and walnut end grain cutting board, diy cutting board, brick style cutting board

Id: WKU_kou2h2w

Length: 16min 49sec (1009 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 07 2019