How to make a BASKETWEAVE cuttingboard

today I'm going to show you how I made this basket weave cutting board so I'm going to start by cross-cutting the hard maple that will make up the main field of this board unfortunately I don't have a sliding miter saw so I don't have the crosscut capacity to go through the entire board and one go yes I am planning on building a dust collection chute for this miter saw eventually after I make the first cut I have to flip the board over and line the kerf back up with the blade so I can finish the cut on the other side I start by cutting off one edge of the maple so that I have a good clean edge to reference off of the fence my blade is a Freud premiere fusion it's a combo blade I think it's 40 teeth and it really struggles going through this eight quarter maple in one go so I end up having to make a couple of passes increasing the height each time I can't remember why I took the splitter off here but it would probably help a little bit with the blade pinching this is only a one and three-quarter horsepower saw so without a dedicated rip blade it kind of struggles to get through something like this so it really doesn't seem to have any difficulty doing it in walnut I'm looking forward to a future table saw upgrade with a free horsepower motor and a dedicated riving knife it's a saw stop or Powermatic if either of you is listening to this whichever one of you responds first has always been my favorite company next I start ripping out the maple strips and I want the finished width to be 2 inches so I'm cutting them to a little under two and a quarter inches so that by the time everything settles and moves and I machine it multiple times I'll have enough material to get back down to exactly the 2 inches that I want even with the splitter installed I still managed to bog the saw down enough to trip the breaker may be the title of my next video will be how to install an electrical sub panel in your shop so that you don't trip the breaker by having to run your table saw and dust extractor on the same circuit here I remove the splitter so that I can lower the blade down below the level of the splitter and make this cut in three passes I guess it was four passes even making four passes and using a splitter it's still managed to bog down enough that I decided to go ahead and turn it off and start this cut again so the way this is going to work is there is going to be a 1/4 inch strip of walnut laminated to each side of a one and a half inch thick piece of maple both of them will be exactly 2 inches wide and it will be milled to be a perfect 2 by 2 inch square this is only 6 quarter inch walnut here so I don't have enough depth in it to just start slicing quarter inch pieces off of here so I'm going to have to cut this to just over 2 inches just like I did this one and then I will slice my strips out this way so they're the correct size it's about 9:30 at night and it is still north of 90 degrees here in my garage I'm dying I'm calling it a night catch you tomorrow here I'm cross cutting the walnut that will end up being these strips the sandwich the made with pieces but when I'm Riesling on the table saw I don't try to go through the entire piece in one go I'll try to come up halfway from each side and meet in the middle for one if there's any variation from 90 degrees in the blade it won't be as pronounced as if you tried to go through the entire length of the piece of the wood and then secondly it is safer than having that much blade sticking up and in this case I may call for cuts to get both lamination started and then I go ahead and separate them after that with the strips cut out it in place you can kind of get a better sense of how this is going to work I cut them at a heavy 3/8 of an inch and then I will plane them down to their final quarter inch thickness these are also still thick and I'll playing them down to one and a half inches for a total of 2 inches by 2 inches these are the center cut offs from those pieces that are ripped and I don't need to rip them down any smaller on the table so I'll just run them through the planer and get all six pieces down to the same thickness at the same time and after that we will go in to glue up the cutterhead cover was obviously removed for photographic clarity and has nothing to do with it having been taken off long before it was ever given to me here the first step in thickness in these parts is to join one side before we take them over to the planer [Music] my wife will be proud that the shirt she bought me has made such a prominent cameo in this film here I'm running the parts through the planer periodically checking them with my caliper to see how close I'm getting to my final dimension using a caliper on your planed wood is probably overkill but my motto is that anything worth doing is worth seriously overthinking [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] missed it by five thousandth four and a half well I'm no Wood Whisperer most people usually say that sanding is their least favorite part of a project but mine is probably doing glue ups I can't really think of anything interesting to say about it but if I don't show it how will you know I did it well yes the finished board at the end of the video but besides that here I'm using those thin cut-offs from the maple board we ripped earlier as clamping cauls this was the only one I did it to and I can't really tell if it made a difference but it seemed like a good idea at the time to paraphrase James of King's fine woodworking this is just the right amount of clamps now that all of the pieces are glued up it's time to rip them down to their final width I don't trust the fence on that jointer it does not stay Square to the bed no matter how I try to adjust it it will not lock down square so if I try to cut this surface flat on the jointer and then rip the other side it's just a recipe for an accidental parallelogram what I'm going to do is I've marked the centerline on these three pieces and I'm going to crosscut them on the sled and then with that half length it will allow me to register the entire thing against my fence and since this side and this side are already flat and parallel to each other if I reference that on the table saw bed and the entire thing up against the fence so that it cannot move side to side that will give me a rip down this edge that is 90 degrees to this side and then I can flip it around and run it through again and then that will give me two sides that are both 90 degrees to the base which is 90 degrees to this side and then that will give me a perfect square [Music] [Music] as you can see here because I had a face that was already dead flat and I could reference the entire length of the piece along the table saw fence that I end up with a perfect in 90 degree corner so I went ahead and ripped the other side down and I just moved the fence over just a few thousandths of an inch at a time until I got this dimension the same as this dimension so when I flip the pieces over like this I can't tell the difference with my hand so that is going to be plenty close enough if I ran it through this way to try to ensure a perfect square it'll make my walnut thinner on one side and that'll kind of ruin our basket will affect but now that they are all square if I turn every other piece sideways like this you can start to see the pattern come together and you can start to see the basket weave effect that we're going for now the next thing I'm going to do is glue up a panel of these things and then start cross cutting them off flipping them up to ingrain and rotating them and then that will give us our final basket weave design so at this point in the build I was really starting to get tired of doing glue up so I decided to hire this guy to do it for me while I sat there and drank sweet tea dude not on the table saw it looks like I can't win either way okay so I went ahead and glued the panel up I put some calls on the top and the bottom with some wax paper you can also put packing tape on your calls but I couldn't find any I want these to be really even normally with some other designs it wouldn't matter if there was a little bit of variation up and down because when I planed it all flat it would take care of that but if I do that on this one it's going to mess up the pattern so I went ahead and used the calls on that okay the glue went really well there was a little bit of shifting in this direction so I have to cut this front edge straight even before I go cutting the strips out of it there's a little tiny bit of lift on some of these boards it's just a couple of thousandths of an inch out of flat so I think what I'm going to do is go ahead and run it through the planer just with the blades barely kissing the surface just to clean that very top layer off of there and once I have those two sides cleaned up then we will start ripping the strip's [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I rolled my planer card over so that I could use its infeed support table has temporary outfield support for my table saw which is either woodworking genius or a really dumb idea well I guess that answers that question please don't fall on the floor and break now after slightly repositioning the planar cart to eliminate that gap I continued to rip the rest of the strips which ended up being 9 in total okay with all of the strips crosscut out of there it's time to turn them over and see how we did not too bad to make it easier on myself in both glue set up time and board alignment I decided to do this glue up in three parts first I glued up two segments of four strips each and then I glued those two segments together with the final piece some people think that it's the end of the world if you build a cutting board using anything other than tight bond three many of the professional cutting board makers I know who actually make a living doing this choose to use tight bond too because they find it to be just as good and a fraction of the price and if it's good enough for the professionals it's good enough for me and cutting boards have been made for many years before tight bond 3 came to market though in this heat I would appreciate the extra set time tight bond 3 would give me as the stuff is getting tacky pretty quick you you you to help ensure that the boards are they're linked if I like to take a clamp and apply pressure along the seam this forces the two boards to slide into alignment you you you once the two halves of the cutting board had set enough for me to handle them which in this case was overnight because it's been so hot here this week that it saps the will to live much less to build cutting boards then I can take the two pieces and glue them together with the final piece into the final blank size and I use my clamp trick again to line them up you once that assembly is out of the clay Shadid on the table saw just barely to make sure that everything on the end lines up here I'm using a router sled that I had thrown together from some scraps to flatten the board the bit I'm using is a two-inch surfacing bit from the white side I would leave an affiliate link to it in the description below except that Amazon said I'm too small a fish to qualify for an influencer account you generally want to avoid running an ingrained board review a planer due to the tear out it can cause board explosions planer explosions general death and dismemberment doing it with a router sled is much safer but man does it make a mess I'm definitely going to redesign this thing to have some kind of dust collection okay the next step is going to be to cut the finger grooves that go on the side he'll pick the board up I use a half inch core box bit mounted in my router table for that and the distance between these two stop blocks is equal to the board plus the width of your handle the board ended up being just slightly under 12 inches and I've decided a six inch handle will look good there so the distance between my stop blocks is 18 inches centered on the bit and the distance from the fence obviously is half the distance or half the thickness of the board which ended up being about an inch in five-eighths after planing as a sanity check what I generally like to do is put it down on top of the bit and scratch it across if I can keep it straight it's all that easier to do this when you're actually cutting I'll scratch it across between the stop blocks in the fence and then look at the scratch pattern on the board and see is that where it looks like it should be and in this case it is so we will go ahead and cut it I've only got this set at about 3/16 height I'll cut that and see if I like the depth and if I need to increase it I'll do that by a little bit and that will help us get a little bit cleaner cut now that the first cut is made I'm going to flip it over keeping the same face out so that way if there is any error in where I have the bit centered on the width of the board it'll be the same on each side instead of being offset you can look at our cut actually feels pretty good what I'm probably going to do is make this same depth cut on the other side and then just increase it just a hair and go back in again on each side just to clean it up taking off just the slightest bit of material to help get rid of any burn marks all right we're in the homestretch now the only thing left to do is to sand all the surfaces apply a 1/8 inch roundover to all of the edges and then we get to apply some oil I'm going to start with 80 grit paper on my random orbit I'd really like to have a drum sander but unfortunately supermax is not sponsored and yet I'll probably stop at 220 grit you know if I'm feeling like it I may pull out the 400 grit sanding net just because it leaves a really nice glassy smooth surface the problem with going too high on grit is it can make it more difficult for the oil to get into the board next to glue ups this is probably the most boring part of the build so I'm not going to make you watch the entire process but if I don't show you some of it how will you know I did it have I used that chip before I need new material [Music] since I'm too busy sanding to explain to you what I'm doing I figured I would come talk to you instead so I started out with 80 grit paper and sanded that all the way down and then I moved up to 150 which is traditionally considered a little bit of a jump but I don't have any 120 or anything in between so I sanded with that and then I wet the surface of the board with wet paper towel and to raise the grain so that it can be sanded back down and then I hit that with 220 and I did that twice or I am doing that twice and after that I will do the edges with a router bit and then we will put it in the oil and that will be finished for this board good job me [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] alright guys I hope you enjoyed watching me make this board as much as I enjoyed building it if you did leave the video a like consider subscribing and I'll catch you on the next build take care [Music] [Music]

Channel: Brandon Hartman - Woodworking

Views: 205,342

Rating: 4.8758912 out of 5

Keywords: cutting board, end grain cutting board, how to, basketweave, basketweave cutting board, basket weave, basket weave cutting board, basket weave cutting board instructions, how to make a basketweave cuttingboard, making a basketweave cutting board, woodworking, how to make a cutting board

Id: 3RfA--IzZ9E

Length: 34min 0sec (2040 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 18 2019