How to Lower OBS Silverado (Fixing Prior Drop) Plus New Steering Shaft

what is up guys welcome back to the channel my name is travis this is tw motorsports and today we are going to be dropping the front of this truck the correct way so if you guys know if you haven't um checked out any other videos on the obs chevy truck this thing is lowered in the rear with a flip kit and a weld in c notch which i'm fine with it's got some air shocks which will probably change down the road but the front in order to get the front drop the person who lowered it just cut the springs now it actually rides pretty decent but i'm not impressed with the camber it's got a ton of negative camber on the front and it has been aligned so we're going to be fixing that today with new spindles and springs so i actually bought new front spindles new springs and we are going to be putting those in today also as you're going to see as i'm going back together i'm doing a brake kit which is in another video so you guys will have to check it out i will link it up above as well but let's get this thing off the ground and get the wheels off and we will get started on the front because i'm only messing with the front i'm not going to be addressing the shocks or any changes in the rear we're just going to focus mainly on how to drop the front the rear flip kit guys it is very similar to the videos that i've done on the green truck and other ones in the past it's very very simple you do have to cut the frame in order to get the notch in and um you do have to put the axle on top of the leaf spring as opposed to the bottom so as far as the rear lowering if you guys want to know how to do that check out the video on this truck which i will also link above here but let's get started by getting the wheels off so once you have the wheel off we're going to go ahead and take the brake caliper itself off now it uses you can use probably a t-55 if you wanted to but 3 8 on a allen head is what takes these guys off and a lot of times guys they're pretty tight so sometimes i use a mallet if um well these these have obviously been moved before of course i'm sure that when this thing was lowered the guy had these off so we're going to loosen these up and get this caliper out of the way you may have to use a pry bar here to pry this thing back a lot of times you have to so we're going to go ahead and get this out of the way and then we will move on to unbolting the brake line since i'm doing new lines um we're gonna need to get the brake line out of the way as well now i'm just using a pry bar here to pry this thing out of the way and once we get it out then we will set it aside and move on to getting the rotor off unless you are removing your brake line and then obviously we'll go to that step so to get the rotor off we need to get this dust cap off and a lot of times they're pretty loose and i know i'm using a claw hammer but i haven't found a hammer that i'm in love with let me know what you guys use in the garage i've just always used this unless i need like a small sledge i've got like a five pound sledge well there's a good amount of grease in there which is good so we need to take this cotter key out there's a little cotter key that's been over i'm going to bend that back take it out and then we need to loosen this outer nut so we can pull this thing off i generally use a pair of needle nose to bend these back sometimes you get lucky and they come right out and sometimes they fight you like that we've got the old one out now i generally just use an adjustable wrench like an adjustable end wrench to get this off and the main reason why i do that is because i don't believe that i have a wrench that big i know i have a sock you could use a socket if you wanted to but i generally like to do it with a wrench because when you put it back on i do it by feel and i just don't have as much feel with how tight it is when i'm going back together so i'll go grab the wrench it shouldn't be real tight we'll take that off and then our caliper will be loose let's see what i'm talking about it's a big one you can almost take them off if they're a little loose you can almost take them off with your hand and it grabs now if you're replacing the bearings at the same time a lot of times you'll pull this out and i'm going with all new brakes but a lot of times you pull this out and then thread that back into place once you've got the inner bearing out thread that back on and then pull it to get the seal off of the caliper or sorry the rotor is generally how i do it makes an easy seal puller but because we're going to new breaks it doesn't matter but like i said if once you get that inner bearing out you can put the nut and the washer back on and then just pull and it will grab everything and yank that rear seal out leaving the seal on the bearing here and then you can just pull it off but now we're ready to get the dust shield out of the way at this point we're going to take a half inch and take these out so you've got not only the backing plate here but your abs module so we're going to take all this stuff out and it is half inch a lot of times there's a bunch of junk on it so if you have to clean it off with a screwdriver or pick before that is the size so we're going to take these off get this out of the way now i'm just going to kind of lay it over to the side for now because i'm not going to unbolt it the actual abs line runs to the upper ball joint here so i'm not going to mess with that i'm just going to kind of lay it over here to the side now that i've got that off and set over here to the side i'm going to go ahead and take all the cotter pins out of all the suspension that we're going to be taking loose so the tie rod here the upper and the lower ball joint i'm going to go ahead and take those out get them out of the way and then we will grab what tools we need to take the sway bar loose because it needs to be loose these things are always they always fight me anyway once we get these out like i said we'll move on to the sway bar and get the end links loose on it let me end up cutting this one off get the sway bar loose and then we'll move to the upper and lower ball joints i'm probably going to go ahead and take the shock loose as well now we can take this sway bar loose and it is 15 on the top and 9 16 on the bottom now this is an aftermarket sway bar end link so i'm pretty sure for the most part they're 9 16 the newer stuff is 15 millimeter which is pretty common unlike any of the other trucks that i do but we're gonna get it out of the way and you need to make sure i'm now i'm only showing you guys one side but you need to make sure you loosen this on both sides otherwise um you're not gonna gain anything here now that we got all those pins out we need to take the shock out so the shock is now this is an aftermarket shock i don't know what it is but it's 9 16 on the bottom it's 15 actually 14 on the top so we're gonna get it out of the way and then it's a one inch that takes this loose we're just going to loosen this run it down a little bit same thing on the bottom ball joint and on the tie rod we can go ahead and take it out and i don't remember what size it is i think it's a three-quarter on it and it's gonna just be determined by whether your suspension components have been replaced before but yeah three quarters here one inch one inch i'm gonna go ahead and take this one completely out and guys these boots are completely trash because somebody used a pickle fork to take these apart i like to use my hammer my sledge to knock on the actual spindle to loosen these up i don't like using a pickle fork just for that reason so we're going to go ahead and get all that accomplished and then i'll show you guys once i get everything loose here where i'm going to be hitting in order to get this broken free so inevitably when i'm working on something i always find stuff that i don't like for one separating joints with a pickle fork i don't like that because it messes up the boots so all these boots are torn and they're gonna have to be replaced the other thing i noticed is this is super super loose it shouldn't be so when i loosened this up it was um it was rattling around which made me a little nervous but what i do guys is i back these off um until you can see a space between them okay and then i'm gonna use my big four pound sledge here to hit here and right here and loosen that up now i have the jack underneath the a arm here and that's to keep pressure up against this so once this is loose i'm going to lift it out and or take this nut off then lift the top a arm out of the spindle and then lift the spindle off and then we will release the pressure on the jack and the reason i do that is if you tick this apart and that spring still had pressure which this spring's been cut so much that's not going to have the pressure a factory spring would have but if you're doing this on a factory truck and you're lowing it for the first time that spring is under a ton of pressure so you want to make sure that you get this loose with pressure under this bottom a arm once that pressure is relieved by taking this out you can gently let the jack down and that a arm will come out now sometimes the spring still does like to pop and just be careful while you're letting the jack down be on the other side of the vehicle make sure there's nothing on this side and we'll get this all out of the way and we'll start going back together now i don't know that i'll show you guys the boot replacement literally i think the the bottom this bottom joint here or the bottom i can't even think of what i'm talking about ball joint the bottom ball joint the bottom ball joint here i think is no good and so if it's not good i'm going to replace that i might show you guys that but if not what we'll do is we'll start going back together but i'll show you once i get it all out of the way it actually didn't take nearly as much as i thought it would so we've got both the bolts off the top one's out bottom one's out and golly that's that's still in good shape so what i'm going to do is i'm actually just going to get a new boot for this because that is still in great shape and they've been replaced obviously so at this point let's lower this jack down you'll see what i'm talking about here i'm going to go ahead and move the caliper over here [Music] and that is how it comes out but generally the caliper was holding it but um at this point we're good to start reassembly after i get some new boots so i'm just gonna get some replacement boots as you can see at this point i cleaned up the upper and lower a-arms and put a coat of paint on them just to make them look a little nicer but i found myself in a little bit of a conundrum in the fact that all the ball joints so the upper and lower ball joints are all new and so were the tie rod ends and uh they're in good shape however the boots uh were destroyed they um they just were in bad shape the top one here is good but the tie rod and the bottom one the boots were bad so what i did was i cut the old boot off um this one you could still see a little remnants of the blue on the round outside on the tie rod i was able to get all of it off and what i chose to replace them with is if you guys are ever looking for boots just boots and there's a company called energy suspension and a lot of people said these wouldn't fit but they do fit so this is the lower and i'll list this stuff in the description below but this is the lower boot and believe me it's in way better shape now with that being said it doesn't cinch on the bottom so we can set it on here and while it fits over the actual ball joint itself it's not going to seal on the bottom side but the main reason you want these is to keep dust and dirt out and not so much the grease in now i is it the best replacement no but i'm not going to press out that ball joint or replace good tie rod ends just because the boot's bad so this is a good alternative this one actually fits really really well the one on the ball joint or the tie rod end but the one on the ball joint is just not it's not as good now once you get the spindle in place it will push it down and kind of seal up the bottom a little better but you probably will have a little bit of grease that pushes out around the bottom lip the other thing i had to do is obviously we took the old springs out and on the top of the old springs was a rubber piece it's kind of like an isolator now i think it's very important that you reuse this if possible a lot of times these things especially with these mileage are just completely shot so what i did was i kind of zip tied in a couple places where they need to be and so at this point i'm ready to put the spring back in and in order to put the spring back in you can see get my light up here you can see there's a kind of an indention where the bottom of the spring goes and then the top goes in that cup up there so we need to make sure that we align that uh both in that spot in the bottom where the indention is and in the top so what i like to do is i put it in the top first and then i use a jack to kind of help lift the bottom of the arm up to try to start compressing the spring once we do that then we can go ahead and put the spindle on and get a couple of these um ball joint nuts started just to keep it in place and then we'll come back and torque everything so that is the next step that we're going to be doing uh just like i said sliding the spring in and i'll try to show you i put the jack underneath the bottom here and i'll try to show you guys that once i get it in place but there's no good place for me to set up the camera to actually show you it going into the top here so let's get that finished and then we'll talk about the spindles you can see we now have the spring in place this is what i'm talking about i've got pressure up against it and if you guys don't feel safe about this you can also put a chain around that just to make sure it doesn't pop out because it takes some effort going back and forth moving it up and down to get it in now i don't know if i told you guys this but i am using a three inch djm spring and i'm using a two inch drop spindle and i've got both the spindles here so you guys can see the difference what this does is it moves the mount so the mounting point the hub here it moves it up two inches so with a three inch spring and a two inch we should get a total of five so it may be a little lower than it was before because i'm sure that he wasn't able to get five inches of drop out of just cutting the spring so as i said that's really not the way i like to do it so that's why i'm replacing all this stuff so at this point i've got my boot pressed down this new boot i was talking about looking nice and we're going to set this in place i'm going to go ahead and put the bottom one on first and then i'm going to pull this down in order to hook the top one in so i may have to lift it jack it up just a hair more but at this point we're ready to get on with the spindle now that we've got the spindle in place i went ahead like i said and put the nut on the top and the bottom and we're going to go ahead and torque these so 94 foot pounds on the bottom one and 50 on the top one now keep in mind uh once you get to that setting you're also going to have to put a cotter pin in so you can you may have to swing it past a little bit so you may have to go a little above that torque setting in order to get the castle nut lined up to get your cotter pin through now i've got both them torqued down like i said 94 on the bottom 50 on the top and both the cotter pins in so now i'm going to go ahead swing the tie rod up here into place and torque it to 46 foot-pounds and get the cotter pin in it as well then we can move on to the abs ring and putting the brakes back together now have the tie rod hooked up and the cotter pin in so one thing i probably should have told you guys i'm replacing the brakes obviously and the brake lines if you're not that brake line actually goes back behind the spindle so i should have told you guys that before i put the spindle in place i wasn't even thinking but i think you might be able to sneak the brake back behind there by pumping the jack up and giving yourself a little more room here so if you didn't do that i'm sorry but that does need to be done but we are on to the abs ring here and that's just these half inch there's three half inch bolts that go in the plate so we're gonna put it into place and tighten them down now guys about 18 foot pounds is all i put on those there's not a ton there and then we're ready to grab our new wheel bearings and slide the new brake into place at this point ready to put the rotor back on and the rotor that i chose to go with is a cross drilled and slotted this is all part of that kit that i got from little shop manufacturing and i chose to there's a couple different ways you can order this you can order it there's different rotors that you can get if you don't care to have this one thing i really like about the zinc washed or zinc plated rotors is they just don't get that rusty nasty look after a long time you can see i've got them on the old truck i've got them on the green truck and there is a side specific and generally it's marked on the box they happen to etch it on the front as well your veins are going to want to flow like you'd be driving forward so you'll see once i get it in place um i chose to go with their they asked if i wanted new bearings i chose to do that because i don't have any idea how old the bearings are in this truck uh while they didn't make any noise and they did look relatively new hey they're cheap and guys i think you should do that now i went ahead and packed them that's like my least favorite thing to do is packing bearings and so i've got them setting in here in my tub of grease so i'm going to go ahead and set them in place also you have two different sizes obviously your back bearing is going to be bigger than your front bearing as far as the inside hole and the outside diameter it is a little bigger you can see that this is tapered but one thing that you're going to want to do is if you buy it with the bearings i don't know if they do this with everybody but they went ahead and tap the races in so i do not have to do that i just use i'm using the bearing only but i do have to put the back bearing in and then put the seal in place which i also have right here if you guys have never done that literally once you get the bearing in place this does have a that is the back you're going to press that in just like that i just use a rubber mallet and easily tap until it's nice and flush so we're going to go ahead and get that done we'll put this into place and then we'll put the front bearing in followed by the washer and the nut and then we'll tighten it all up you can see now that we have that installed with the rear seal here and i'm ready to put it up in place now i do like to put a little bit of grease on the actual spindle itself um you know if you're using reusing your old one and you're just replacing the brakes it probably has grease on it but it doesn't hurt to put a little bit more or some fresh grease on it so we're ready to put this rotor up on there and guys until you get the front bearing in place it's going to want to move around on you so it's going to kind of move back and forth so sometimes it wants to fall off depending on the angle you've got your truck lifted at just be careful if you have the other bearing and you can put it in which is what i'm going to do at the same time go ahead and do that and just push it up in there and then like i said we'll grab that washer and the nut now we have our washer here and guys it only goes on one direction there's a cut out and there we go and then we're going to grab the nut and we're going to thread it on now generally what i like to do is get a adjustable end wrench and thread this down while i'm spinning it and i'm sure there's an exact method to this but it's just kind of one of those things you do by feel you don't want any play so i put my hands on both sides of the rotor and pull back and forth to make sure there's no play so basically i'm spinning it as i'm tightening it down and when it gets to where it doesn't want to move i back it off just a hair then i make sure there's no play in it and then i put the cotter pin in and the dust cap on so if you don't feel comfortable with this there are torque specs for this i don't know that i necessarily trust them because the amount of grease in there would probably change that just like i said spin it while you're tightening this down and once it starts to not want to spin you're going to back it off just generally about a quarter of a turn and make sure there's no play and then we're going to put our cotter pin in so i wanted to show you guys how much there's too much play here you see that it's spinning good not making any noises but that means we have too much place so we need to keep tightening it up still have play and generally what will happen is this will get hard to turn notice that it's still turning pretty freely now now it's starting to snug up not turning quite as easy so at that point we're going to back it off just enough to get the cotter key in which is generally about a quarter of a turn and then we want to check it again so we don't have any play now so i'm going to go ahead and put the cotter key in and then put the dust cap on so at this point we're going to put this in place now it does have the brake pads in it and it is pre-assembled there so all we need to do is go back together the same way we came apart and i may have to compress that just a hair get this in here and then we will use the torx bit the same or the sorry the allen that we used before there we go and it is i don't remember what size it was i think it's 3 8. so we'll get this into place get it started and then we'll move on to the brake lines once you get this in place go ahead and torque the bolts the guide pin bolts back here that we just put in to 34 foot pounds now i'm gonna go ahead and put the shock back in i have no idea what kind of shocks these are but they seem to ride okay so we're gonna try them and if i don't like them i can always replace them but obviously these two guys sandwich around that upper mount so i just put this back together because i took it off and then you have your two either 15 14 13 depends on if somebody's replaced it before if they put the right stuff back in it but normally it's standard on these things but for some reason i think mine are 14s or something weird but anyway we need to get this in place then we can get the wheel back on now obviously guys if you did breaks like i did at the same time go ahead and bleed your brakes at this point but um other than that there is something else with the steering shaft that i want to show you guys because obviously i've been fighting some issues with turning um or having play in the steering wheel so we're gonna go up there next but for now i'm gonna put this in get the wheel back on get on the ground then we'll move up to under the hood and i'll show you what i'm replacing there now on to under the hood and what i was going to be replacing guys is that steering shaft so there are several different options available okay so you can buy obviously the new rag joint that goes down here at the end and i haven't peeled back the plastic boot here but you can replace that you do have to drill it out and bolt the new one on which if you guys didn't know i did on my two-door tahoe if you want to see how that's done the other option is there's a whole replacement shaft that you can buy which was my original goal is what i was going to do and it instead of having like that rag joint at the bottom it has like needle bearings and so that was the plan that i had in mind but somebody turned me on to this and this is from cunning i think it's cutting hand machine and i'll list it in the description down below but here's the deal guys uh it uses the u-joint so a lot of people have used these jeep shafts uh apparently a jeep jam grand cherokee shaft will fit but this is the piece that um i'm going to be putting on i'm going to try this and see if that improves my steering so obviously that steering column is two piece and we'll have to get it out of the way to put this in but this slides up in the factory top and replaces that junk u-joint or steering shaft or rag joint as you would call it with a actual u-joint so this should be a way more firm feeling and i'm really excited to try it because um well obviously you guys know my frustration with the steering now do i think it's going to take all the slop out no i still think there's probably a little bit in the box but before i adjust it i wanted to try something like this and how you put this on obviously you take your 11 millimeter if you have the original i believe it's 11 millimeter you're going to take it out and you're going to take the top out as well and i like to tape the steering wheel in place on the dash so i'm going to take this old shaft out now if you have a replacement rag joint which this one does i'm not even sure what size it is but we're going to pull this one out of the way off that splined in that goes into the box and we're going to put this one in place but how this one works is there's a set screw in the middle and then there's a jam nut that you tighten down on top so not a whole lot to this the other side is already done for you so all you have to do is take the old shaft apart which i'll show you guys once i get the old one out kind of how this is going to go into play and i'm like i said i'm really excited about this i think this is going to help a lot even if it doesn't take all the soft out i think it's just going to really firm up the steering wheel so as you can see i got the old out of the way like i said there's two points that you need to undo the first one being at the bottom here and actually i believe it was a 13 millimeter which is kind of surprising i took the little boot off the bottom honestly that thing's completely trashed anyway and then this is the top section this was completely rounded off so luckily uh 15 millimeter fit the other side here that gets the top off so this is a two-piece shaft you can see i've got it separated here this piece that goes up closest to the firewall comes out of this section here now this has been replaced and it honestly looks like it's in pretty good shape you can tell that it's been replaced because see how it's bolted together there that means it's been replaced the factory one would be riveted like you see here so um yeah it's definitely been replaced my guess is somebody's attempt to fix that but all we have to do is we're gonna slide this piece and you can see there's like something to keep tension up against it right here i'm gonna put a little more grease on that and um we're gonna slide it into this shaft and then guys all we have to do is just go back the same way we did the diff the only difference being is you're gonna use i believe a four millimeter is what size it is yeah four millimeter allen to tighten up this and then a 12 millimeter to tighten up the jam nut on top once you get it cinched down obviously the other section so the piece that goes up in the firewall you're going to reuse that 15 millimeter but that's all there is to it there's not a whole lot to it it's probably a little bit of a reach here now i'm not going to be putting i don't think i'm going to put this back on like it was from the factory i just don't think it's i don't think there's a point in it and i don't want it to interfere with anything so in my opinion i'm going to leave it off and there's no instructions that come with this but i i don't know i'm not i'm not going to put it back on i probably will put this back on and the only reason i'm gonna put that back on is just to try to keep water out of this joint here um i you know not a lot of water comes under the hood but if something were to splash up in there dirt and debris i think it just helps keep that clean so i am going to put that back on it connects at the top and then the factory had kind of a zip tie of sorts to keep it on the bottom now this shaft is not quite as big i'm just going to concern myself with putting it on the top and not worry about the bottom because as you can see it gets a little bigger on the bottom so we're gonna put this thing back together and uh then we'll go test it so we have it all on there i will tell you guys that um there was a little bit of play as far as like when you turn that and it seems to have eliminated some of that so i think like i said we're gonna get better and i'm kind of optimistic hopefully that um we'll we'll see a huge difference but bolted it down i will tell you guys that i did have to use a pry bar against the frame like right there by the header in order to get the bottom down far enough to get it on so i like to hook the top first because there's really no good way to put it on second but it's pretty tight those two pieces so put the top in first go ahead and put your bolt in and then if you have to use a pry bar to kind of help pry this into place and uh get it all bolted down and cinched down so we are ready to take it out and see what kind of difference it makes so with the suspension obviously we're quite a bit lower now and um well i kind of want to go out and see what it does so it's probably the windiest day of the year to test this but i wanted to take it out and i wanted to walk you guys around the outside of it once it is reloaded i guess you could call it so um as you know we put new springs new spindles in the front and i did the brake swap at the same time so i actually filmed two different videos but this is the first time i'm actually going to be getting it out for the most part with that new steering shaft in so i want to let you guys know how i feel about it but i will tell you that um as far as the spindles go you know before we had just a cut spring to get all of our drop and i put some air back in the back bags it'll actually come down a little further it will come down until it hits on the cross member in the bed so we're going to have to notch that at some point but anyway as far as the spindles go when this was cut um the spring this wheel would lay in because they couldn't adjust that negative camber out of it because that is not the proper way to lower it so with that being said you're probably going to have to roll your fenders a little bit i rolled mine just a little bit and actually my east my eastwood fender roller won't fit a five on five and a half so i'm going to have to get an adapter like a wheel adapter to make it work for some reason foreign 4.5 on five and four point seven five on five um seems to be the only sizes that it fits it's just a little too small to fit on this um bolt pattern so anyway i did roll the fender a little bit with just a wooden bat and um this thing's probably going to be going to paint so i didn't really worry much about that because he'll fix all that and make it look nice when he does that but i will show you guys you can see that i just rolled it right here and you really can't even tell but i think it's gonna hit just a little bit just because like i said for two reasons um one of is that anytime you lower one of these with the spindles majority of your spindles this is why i used djm it pushes it out about a sixteenth of an inch now beltek is more like a quarter of an inch so that's why i chose to use dgm now there's actually a new one out there which the company who sells the brake cells um that says it doesn't push it out at all so i probably if i didn't already have these i probably would have went with that option but um let's take it down the road and at least test the steering with that new um u-joint as opposed to that rag joint just backing out of the driveway there seems to be a pretty substantial difference as far as how tight the steering is um you know and i still haven't had this thing aligned since obviously we've dropped it here let's see if i can adjust this down did it with one hand but it acts to me and i really won't know until i get out on the road but it seems to me like there's less play i mean there's still some and i don't know guys it it may just be the steering box i may just have to try to adjust that adjustment in the steering box and see if that fixes my issue but there it felt like there was a little bit of play just then let's pull out here and see because i really i really can't tell until i'm on a road and uh we're driving and an alignment might help this a little bit but and by by no means is this a rack and pinion that's for sure but this is what i'm talking about so see we're going straight in order to turn you see that how much until i actually got it to go the other direction it's like then it goes then it goes but it is tighter i will say that it feels more firm when it is going it's not quite as loose as it was before so i just still think i have some work to do here now whether i opt to put a rack on it um i'm not really sure what i'm going to do yet but seems to be driving pretty good it definitely um i don't know what brand of shocks those are and i'll probably end up replacing them down the road but it actually rides pretty decent for just a no-name shock or at least i don't know what name it is it's not a bell tech or djm or anything i've always had really good luck with the beltec stuff so we got it backed in here in the garage again and like i said guys i don't it's better okay it's better and uh chances are if you guys have that rag joint i actually think this is probably your best replacement option i know a lot of guys go with the jeep cherokee but cunningham um motorsports i believe it is i'll link their information down below is where i got the steering shaft and of course the rest of the stuff the spindles and springs i will list that in the description down below as well there from djm and um and then the back i actually think it's got a beltec flip kit so if you i didn't show you guys how to do a flip kit in this video but if you would like you can go back and look at what i did my green truck or you can look at when i did the two-door tahoe because actually they're the exact same so literally you're just taking the rear end off the bottom of the leaf and putting it on top and so if you watch the two-door tahoe video it'll actually give you the torque specs because they will be the same so um i will link that in the description as well but um i'd still need to get it aligned and we have a long way to go on this truck guys i'm going to be real honest with you when i bought this truck i was really excited about it and um i kind of lost some of that excitement especially when i bought the sonoma gt but i'm going to hang in there for you guys because i know a lot of you guys are wanting to see this obs come to life and so with that being said um the next video that you see on this truck will be us starting to pull stuff apart because yes as of right now it is going to paint and um so some of the things that i'm going to be doing i'm going to um have the bed linex just like i did on my green truck over there so i'm not going to worry as much about the inside of the bed but while he's got it he's going to take the bed because it's easier for him to get this in right now and then we'll bring the truck back home and then when he's ready for the whole truck we'll do the truck but when i do the whole truck i'm going to pull the glass all out now we're going to pull obviously the door handles i'm going to start pulling the trim here soon i'll show you guys that in the video where we start disassembly when it's ready to go to paint but i'm going to leave in the bed we are going to be reversing the tailgate handle just like i did on my green truck we are going to be shaving these guys so the stake pockets will be gone um and we'll talk more about what all i'm going to be doing when this thing goes to paint but the original plan was to just drive it for a little bit i think and now i've kind of decided that you guys love this thing and so we are going to keep hammering down on it uh i'm sure i'm going to try not to disappoint you guys unless somebody comes up with some major amount of money but i can't handle this thing not being painted um i'm just afraid with the the the rash that's along the bottom it's going to start to rust then it's going to need cab corners and whatnot and i'd rather just knock it out now while the trucks in pretty decent shape the paint's all original you know it's got its share of dings and scratches and we're going to be addressing all of that obviously in paint but if you guys did enjoy this video if you like this obs truck which i know a lot of you guys do please go down there and smash that thumbs up button guys while you're down there doing all that make sure that you subscribe ring that bell icon that notifies you every single time we drop a new video and stay tuned to see what we work on next you

Channel: TWA Motorsports

Views: 82,708

Keywords: How to Lower OBS Silverado (Fixing Prior Drop) Plus New Steering Shaft, how to lower obs silverado, twa motorsports obs silverado, how to lower 88-98 silverado, how to drop obs silverado, 5/7 drop obs silverado, obs drop kit install, obs silverado drop kit, obs silverado 5/7 drop, how to install obs lowering kit, how to drop obs chevy silverado, obs chevrolet silverado lowering kit, steering shaft replacement obs silverado, obs steering slop fix, obs steering shaft with u joint

Id: JEof7M7F9vQ

Length: 39min 11sec (2351 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 12 2021