BUDGET Chevy GM 88-98 C1500 Truck Rear Disk Brake Conversion EASY! UNDER $400

how's it going guys welcome back to my channel my name is leo and today i'm going to be going over how i did this rear disc braking version on my chevy pickup truck i went online to check prices to see how much it was going to be to buy a new set of shoes and drums and i noticed that it was kind of expensive and a while ago i had already considered doing this rear disc braking version but i decided not to because of the cost so financially the difference between putting a new set of shoes and drums versus doing the disc brake conversion was only going to be a few hundred at this point i decided that i was gonna do this rear disc brake conversion i realized i ended up taking way too much footage of how to do this conversion i'm gonna try my best to make this video as short as possible and get as much information in there as well okay so let's get started at the beginning i'm showing all the parts that i bought in the description i'm going to give you guys a list of everything you need to buy for this conversion i ended up using brackets from cunningham machine before buying all these parts i actually reached out to cunningham machine to get a parts list and i checked the prices for everything online and that ended up being under 400 and i did confirm with cunningham machine that it was okay for me to share this parts list with you guys they did send me a set of their heavy duty tie rod sleeves for free however the actual brackets i paid for myself initially i was going to go over each individual part that i bought but like i said earlier that's going to take way too long so instead here's a list of everything you guys need to buy i also made a list of optional items you can buy i would suggest buying the optional items or you can reuse your old parts it's up to you guys before we get started i am not responsible for any damage to your truck or any harm you cost to yourself i started off by jacking up the truck and i put two jack stands underneath the differential remove both wheels i'm gonna pull the hats off the drums now start taking off the brake shoes and all the hardware that comes with it i'm not going to show you guys how to remove all this stuff there's plenty of videos on youtube i'll give you a quick tip i remove these parts first and that'll give you enough space to pull the shoes over the hub and finish taking off the rest of the parts according to cunningham machine you don't have to remove the axles to install these brackets as they left the opening notch to allow the brackets to go over however if you don't pull the axles you will need to find a way to cut the old backing plates i'm going to pull off the differential cover i actually made a mistake earlier in that i put the jack stands too close to the center of the differential cover so i couldn't slide my oil container underneath i've since moved the jack stands over a little bit to the side 10 13 millimeter bolts [Music] [Music] with the differential cover out of the way i'm going to remove this eight millimeter bolt which will allow me to slide the center pin out the correct socket size is a 5 16 with the bolt out of the way i actually ended up fitting my hand in through the back and i push it from that side towards and now i should be able to get it out and now that the bolt and the centering pin are out i put the truck in neutral and now i can spin the differential by hand once you get to this point push in both of your hubs from either side and you'll be able to see that c-clip that holds it in there so i'm gonna go get a magnet so i can grab that c-clip with those out of the way you can now slide your axles out same process on the passenger side next i'm going to remove the drum brake cylinder two bolts holding it down you also have to remove this brake line and remove these four bolts holding the backing plate 15 millimeter there's a nut on the other side 15 millimeter wrench on the other side remove your backing plate there's this little bracket that's part of the parking brake cable press those fingers in it'll release i'm gonna hammer these seals out of here i got my hardware laid out each bolt gets a washer each nut also gets a washer i got all my hardware set up now all right guys so at this point i went ahead and tightened down all my hardware and i'm gonna repeat the same steps on the other side while editing i noticed i installed the driver side bracket with the notch facing up and did the opposite for the passenger side i confirmed with cunningham machine that either way is correct and doesn't affect anything i'm going to go ahead and install my seal reinstall the axle making sure not to damage the new seal repeat the process on the passenger side [Music] remove the old gasket and clean the inside of the differential put back these retaining clips for the axle put the pin back in reinstall the pin bolt using some blue loctite i'm going to be using one of these felpro paper gaskets i've also cleaned up all my bolts put the cover back on along with the gasket i'm back at the driver's side i'm ready to start assembling this use some silicone paste around all the rubber bushings make sure you have both of those metal bushings that should have came with your caliper to assemble this all together push your bushing through and same with the other side apply some thread locker on the caliper pins this retaining clip will grab on to the upper lip of the piston and then the bottom opens up they'll snap right into place whenever you receive your brake pads it may have come with that spacer you will not need this so make sure to take it off when you guys are putting the pads back on make sure that the notch with the deepest groove the one where my finger is touching is where the boss of the brake pad is sitting on that's a little boss on the brake pad mine has to be rotated for it to line up properly you'll notice that the spring has two hooks on it those hooks will grab on to the bottom of the brake pad like that and nieces sit flush against the piston and hold itself together the brake pad on the other side only goes in one way and drops into place the holes for the rotor have to be drilled out 9 16 hole in order for this rotor to fit over the factory hub i got my rotor i'm going to put it on clean the rotor to get the shipping oil off the pad surface to keep the rotor from moving on me run a couple of these lug nuts in install the caliper and the pins grab your bottom pin and feed it through as well the bolt is a 3 8 hex so i just finished adjusting the parking brake lever i'm not going to go over how to adjust this because there's a bunch of different ways to do it and it's a bit of a pain in the butt to get it just right more often than not from the factory they will come pre-adjusted already so you won't have to mess with this when you actuate the lever it shouldn't travel more than a quarter inch before the brake pads actually grab onto the rotor in case you do need to adjust yours i'll post a link in the description to someone else's video i'm gonna be putting on the brake line now one aj 4290 rear left hand side at this point you have to make your own custom hard lines that goes from the end of the soft line to the distribution block on the differential this end will bolt onto the caliper this other end will go to your distribution block install both of the copper washers on the brake line the bolt that comes with the brake line is different use the one that comes with the caliper this is a brake line one side has a little lid to it and the other side is flat this was for a 2001 chevy pickup truck on that caliper that lip would lock onto the outer edge of that brake caliper and keep it from moving around because this brake line was not made for this application we're gonna flip it around the flat side is the one that's gonna be resting against the brake caliper and this will not work any other way because if you put the lip facing against the caliper the holes don't line up i'm going to go ahead and install it i'm going to angle the brake line parallel with the axle i decided to mount this bracket where the gray circle is i will drill and tap the hole the brake line for the passenger side did not come with the bracket so i went to the junkyard and pulled the brackets off the 2001 silverado you will see how i used one of the brackets to mount the brake line i also brought the corresponding bolts with me i used an m8 by 1.25 tap tap drill bit size it's a 7 64. i made a dent with the punch to make sure my drill bit starts right in the center [Applause] i'm going to put the bolt back on and use a little bit of blue loctite disconnect the old brake line that went to the distribution block the passenger side assembly is the same so i won't be showing how to assemble it in detail the passenger side brake line i installed the same way as the driver's side from the two brackets i had brought from the junkyard i used the passenger side bracket i flattened it cut half of it off and drilled another hole in it make sure to bring the retaining clips with you as that secures the brake line to the bracket i also drilled and tapped the hole on the shock bracket similar to the driver's side and finished off by tightening the bracket down with the remaining junkyard bolt cn-320 is a brake line i use for the driver's side and cn 330 is for the passenger side you will need to use your brake line tube bender to route them along the differential this is a finished product i had temporarily taken off the differential cover while test fitting you won't have to do this once you finish installing the brake lines make sure to refill the differential at this point i start assembling the parking brake cable for the brake cable cut this spring i'm going to feed it through the back through the spring this will lock and push it a little bit under the opening for this bracket when you press on the parking brake pedal it will pull the lever back using the cable putting pressure on the pads once you release it the spring will push the lever back to its resting position the other goes in through that same hole on this bracket pushing it in will allow the tabs to open up and lock into place you will end up with extra slack i adjusted my cable equalizer and i was able to get rid of the slack another option would be to modify the cable and at a cable stop for the driver's side i'm going to be repeating the same process the driver's side ended up with minimal slack i got rid of most of it by moving the cable over this hook i also ended up using the spare bracket i had from the junkyard i bolted it on to an existing hole on the frame of the truck and put the parking brake cable over it that ended up removing more slack the driver's side has no adjustment for the passenger side i ran the rod on the equalizer all the way in make sure your parking brake cable is able to move freely inside the black sleeve it will not allow the caliper spring to return properly if the cable can't move easily i will briefly show how to adjust the equalizer but this will vary by truck with some vice grips grab the end of this rod take a 16 millimeter wrench put it on there turn the wrench clockwise and you turn the vice clear clockwise that'll thread in the rod and pull the slack off that cable on the passenger side the caliper uses a ratcheting mechanism to push out the piston as the brake pads wear out remember to use a parking brake pedal when parking the truck otherwise the mechanism won't work properly over time resulting in too much travel before engaging once both of the parking brake cables have been adjusted you can start the brake bleeding procedure i upgraded the master brake cylinder to the updated new body style version you can skip this step but the goal of this project was to remove as much of the spongy brake feeling you get from these obs trucks this black box is the controller for the abs and this right here is the dump valve this abs system was not a true all-wheel abs system as it only worked for the rear brakes removing the dump valve and abs controller is also optional the brake pedal feel was significantly better after all these changes to the braking system however i cannot confirm how much of an effect removing these two parts had overall i'm going to get started by undoing the brake lines going to the dump valve i'm going to remove the one on the bottom first once the dump valve has been removed it's going to screw onto this end of the proportioning valve or that bottom brake line going to be a 9 16 flare nut wrench next remove the brake line running to the bottom of the proportioning valve the other brake line is a half an inch flare nut the dump valve is now being held on by that bolt it's a 13 millimeter bolt and then there's a harness going to it as well this harness can be disconnected in the back lift up on that tab and it should come loose once you remove the thumb valve you can finish removing the abs controller or leave it mounted to remove the abs module disconnect the last connector in the back lift on the plastic tab in the back and evenly pull towards you the rear brake line will attach to the back of the proportioning valve you may need either of these two adapters or no adapter at all in my case i did not need the adapter carefully unwind the brake line and thread it in unfortunately i damaged my brake line so i ended up replacing it remove the two brake lines going to the master brake cylinder using a 9 16 flare nut wrench to get the master brake cylinder off i'm going to undo these two nuts there's one on either side you will also need an adapter for this brake line the one in the back will screw right on once your master cylinder is off look for the brake booster seal clean and add dielectric grease if necessary and reinstall next bench bleed the master cylinder i use this doorman kit to make it easier i won't be going into depth for this step install the adapter for the brake line closest to the front of the truck install the brake lines before mounting the master cylinder back to the brake booster you will have to wrestle the brake lines into place cunningham machine provided basic instructions for this install and i found instructions from another company that sells a similar kit i combined both sets of instructions to figure out how to do everything correctly the final step is to bleed the brake lines it is important to note that the bleeder screw must be parallel to the ground due to the design of the calipers it is also suggested to slowly pump the brake pedal when bleeding the brake lines i used the one man bleeding technique with a bottle and a hose remember to start from the brake line for this from the master cylinder and work your way towards the closest one i won't be showing how to bleed the brakes either as there are many ways to do it i have been driving with this conversion for about four months now and the difference in braking is significant in my opinion it was well worth the money the sponginess has been reduced by a lot but there is still some sponginess there however i do feel a lot more confident when driving this truck as the braking distance has been reduced making the ride feel much safer once you're done bleeding your brake lines that's it take it for a test drive and make sure your brake lines are working properly you will need to bet on your new pads and rotors you can find instructions for this online i spent a lot of time filming and editing this video please leave me some feedback in the comment section below and subscribe if you're interested in car repair related videos this truck and a 69 camaro are my project cars so there will be plenty more videos to come thanks for watching peace

Channel: Tech Stuff

Views: 124,264

Keywords: chevy, truck, 10 bolt, drum brakes, conversion, disk brake conversion, disk brake, disk brakes, GM, GMC, 88-98, C1500, 1500, 1988, 1989, 1990., 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, cunningham machine, littleshopmfg, easy, budget

Id: dDalm1BI_QU

Length: 14min 33sec (873 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 10 2021