How To Layout And Install Large Format Tile On Concrete

[Music] it's titled a welcome back to the basement job we are taking a look at finishing all the flooring that's not getting laminate and it's not on the subfloor system so because we have our subfloor system that you've probably seen previously what we're doing here is we are recreating the same tile floor that's upstairs and we're bringing it down here so that we have a nice constant flow through the house you see the same flooring patterns emerging over and over again it gives you the feeling that everything was pre thought right it's very intentional they didn't just go to the store and find something and slap it in the basement so now this becomes an extension of the upstairs but what we do have is a different in elevation because we have subfloor and then non concrete so what we've done is prepared this concrete in advance we use the Eco prime grip from map high and that's a brilliant little product basically what we have is raw concrete that hasn't been painted except when they prime the basement originally they use the spree machine so there's spray powder everywhere and that is going to interfere with our adhesion with our cement so what what I did is I use the equal prime grip and then I've used the protego you lament this is an uncoupling membrane this is not a Detra product this is red not Orange so don't have to adjust the color on your screen this one is what you know the world would call a knockoff it hasn't been tested to the same degree for working in areas with deflection and that sort of thing but for me I'm comfortable saving a couple hundred bucks using this here it's on concrete when you're building on concrete all you're really looking for is the elevation I don't need a whole lot of performance from this product and so I'm more than confident that's going to work just fine so we prime it we put down the underlayment now we're ready to tile we did this yesterday I don't like the tile right away cuz it seemed that dent the cement as is drying so the today what we have to do now is we have to measure the set we got to map this out you can't just start a project in the fire corner and go left to right and fill it all in you need to think ahead where are my grout line is going to be what's the pattern I'm using and where it is the square versus non square walls in the home remember this is a modification to an existing space so this used to be a wall we removed it this is existing from the Builder this is existing from the Builder and we just finished doing some measuring and found out they're not parallel so it's very key now that we think about how we lay our tiles so that we don't over emphasize the fact that these are out of line we don't want to have our tile finishing here with no grout line and then opening up to a grout line and going wow what a really nasty looking tile job so keeping in mind that people are coming down the stairs what's in their line of sight what is the most common traffic flow and then where do we want to have our grout lines and interrupt our grout lines how is it going to meet with the other flooring all these things we got to take into consideration so let's begin so these are our tiles or 12 by 24 this is a porcelain it's Ala Paabo so it's not a modest flat it's not a gloss it's kind of like semi-gloss for paint it has a little bit of texture in it and it's really nice for floors especially if you're going to go in and out to the hot tub or coming out of a shower because it will give you a little bit of grip it also very easy to clean you know the tile floor upstairs which is what we're going to mimic so that we have the same continuity is an 8 inch offset pattern but it's not a brick pattern this one is a little bit different so I'm just going to lay this out real quick so that we can have a look as far as what this is going to look like as a finished product all right this is the offset that they're doing upstairs okay so here's our pattern this is an eighth inch offset but this isn't a brick pattern it doesn't keep stepping down the way it comes back again so what we end up with is two grout lines and then two grout lines with the larger space in the middle and this can be very beneficial for us so what we're going to do is we're going to use our laser level that we've already established a line all the way down and we're going to just have a quick look at what kind of off cuts we're going to get if we start in that particular spot so here we're fine it'd be nice if this was not more than half of a pitaya yeah let me have lemon 1/2 that's good so because this wall is going to give me half cuts but it's not square I'm going to just measure from both ends make sure that I'm starting in a place where my off cuts I can use again and I'm not throwing tile away but I like this pattern the like words going down here I'm not going to end up with little slivers against the wall I might end up with something over here yeah I'm going to end up with about a 3-inch piece there and that's going to be fine but that's out of the way now if I do the same thing down here because that's on my laser line I can find my laser line put my tape measures down check my two-foot tile see where I end up so there I hit the wall at one foot there I'll hit the wall at 16 inch and that will lead me right into my bathroom wow that doesn't happen very often but I think that's going to work alright so here's the secret when you're doing a tile job first you want to identify where your grout lines are going to be what the condition at the visible edges are going to be like so you can adjust your main line off your laser secondly also got to consider where you want to finish up so down at this end we're finishing up on a door to transition under door so it doesn't matter the conditions going to the storeroom over here we got an entrance to a bedroom door secondary it's out of the line of sight from the main living area but over here is the main living area the French doors leading into the great room now we're going from one type of flooring to another so we will have a cap transition but we don't want to end up with a piece where we have it like a 2 or 3 inch sliver there so what we're going to do is we're going to measure off from over there because I need to start way over here there's a two-day tile installation so today I want to do all the floor and then tomorrow I want to do the shower and the rest of the bathroom floor but I need to have tile going into that room so I have something that I can stand on while infinitely on space so my tile is really kind of odd it's actually 11 and a half inches including my grout lines so it's not a true 12 by 24 so I need to measure right from where I want to finish down to where I want to start and then I can establish my line okay so I come down here there we go there's 19 feet I'm gonna make a mark and I'm going to do my mat so I have 19 feet minus half inch per tile okay so it's 19 tiles and a half inch half a 19 is you nine and a half so mine is nine and a half inches so my mark minus nine and a half inches is where my tile will end and then I can go back 11 and a half this is where my first tile is going to go now I'm going to just get my square bring it down here off the laser line draw my marks and then I can start tiling okay so this is not too difficult but little paying attention going on here we got our square we got our laser line we're going to build the entire floor and that is actually our grout line so our tile that we have going down here well every other tile is going to touch that line so I'm measuring off putting the waste square on that line with both my fingers perfect and I have the other point here with my measurement that I put down just a minute ago and I'm going to just draw my line with my black marker make sure I am good to go there we go that's where I'm starting so just a quick lesson on how to mix your cement but first where to buy it I use matte byproducts because I go to a local wholesaler for tile and flooring products the company name doesn't really matter at this point but the point is this my bag is cement this is an LST large-format tile cement and when I buy this bag I believe it's like sixteen or seventeen dollars if you went to the local harbors sorted by this bag you're looking upwards of 35 to 40 now to do this type of cement on that type of tile for 1224 you're probably going to get 60 or 70 square feet per bag so in a project like this I'm going to go through five bags of cement you can do the math that is about 150 dollars you're going to save and it's better in your pocket now what you want to do start off by adding a little bit of water ended up being about 20 percent water give or take snow depends on the tiles that are some people like more or less this particular batch is a little warm I only have access to it from the hot water over to overflow from the tank so I'm going to have issues with my cement drying quickly on me so once I get going I got to move fast okay good so because it's warm water I've got to work quick I'm not going to make as much willing to make a half pail I'm using a slow speed mixes it doesn't rotate as fast as a lot of the other like VSR drill and this is designed for cement and for mud mixing so already I can tell it's going to be a little too stiff you want to add water if you're going to add more the very beginning of your mixing process once you're finished mixing it needs to set for 10 minutes before you use it if you add water during that time you're destroying your Smith [Music] there we go that's what I like to see got some ridging some peeking it's holding its own shape and yet it still looks nice and loose okay so once again for the DIY wires out there we're using a half inch by half inch trowel it works very good with the large format tile cement and the idea is we want to fill up these holes that are in this in order to transfer the contact point from the stone right down into the concrete underneath if you don't fill these or have a bunch of air pockets and you run the risk of cracking your tile and I use my trusty little cheapy tile cutter from bubbling store I always put a nice wheel on it and it works just fine when you're installing this way on a two day tile and so I'll almost always just go for the square footage on the first day so I'll do my square cuts I won't even pull up my grinder I won't do do details around the doors and that sort of thing I won't pull out the web saw until the second day I don't like to set it up and clean it up twice so here we go we're looking to fill up these squares to matter from a couple of different directions make sure you don't bury your your line see you will end up going through a lot of cement so what we're going to do I'm going to just try all this out real quick and then I'm going to knock it all in the same direction so that when I'm putting my file in I have a nice consistent underlay there now because it's a large format I'm going to steal a little bit back butter my tile then we're going to place this down on my line that needs to be up there and I'm going to check for my laser level a little too far over perfect a little bit of pressure slide it to my line now in our last tile videos people have commented all you don't have enough adhesion anyway so with one of my viewers misses why don't you lift the tile and show everybody there you go industry standard for floors is 80% this is about 97 I ought to be just fine there we go there's our cornerstone now I got to do is the same thing over and over and over again till the floors now so flip this box they're equipped basically it's the same sciences all the clip systems they break off you just place them underneath the idea here is you just get rid of the extra cement that's in the area because you don't want to have cement popping up between the joints now some people use a margin trowel I'm a little old school I just like to have one tool in front of me all the time so I use that trial always visually inspect your corners make sure that things are good good remove packaging like this and this is usually installed with tiles that have a some sort of a polished finish on it to protect it from scratching during shipping once again I'm going to back butter we'll lay that in position Lanta put a quarter off put some pressure and push back to collapse the ridges okay nice over this way and this way we'll go both directions just River Clippers to the camera now I usually try to put those wedges in with fingers first now here's the basic idea the clip goes over top here we go I'm sorry I'm on backwards can you just squeeze the wedge through the clip causing compression and it should create a nice flush surface [Music] [Applause] [Music] proximally they're got eight inch offset and we are pressure and I will collapse my ridges now the only thing I'm going to do differently is woo I'm going to use different tile click system [Music] you see this works pretty quick [Music] here we go this is for everybody who's been sending me messages about my PPE you got to use eye protection I got this from that crazy Russian hacker I love his goggles [Music] so for those of you who have never done this before this is a continuous reminder so if it touches you it'll burn your finger it won't cut your finger off which is lovely the idea here is stone is somewhat sent to the specialness porcelain and I know people get upset when I call it stone but it's a bad habit you want to cut all the way through on each end and then you want to basically plunge cut here so that the weak spot is going in both directions so if it does break turn cutting the piece that you want to keep stays in set [Music] Linda's felicitous [Music] [Music] [Music] here we go inside corner very important make sure your clips are pushed all the way in guys basically that's it has been for the techniques we're going to scratch the corners we're going to fill in as much of this as we can without using in the grinder so we can get a lot of square footage done today this will allow us all the room we need to be able to walk around and finish the job tomorrow so today I'll be about a half day we'll put down 150 square feet or so and come back tomorrow and finish this off max isn't available tomorrow so you're going to have to wait to the final reveal probably to see the tile job if you're enjoying these videos subscribe to the channel hit the like button but most importantly comment on the videos by all means or a suggestion of videos you'd like to see let us know we'd love to be in touch

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 1,157,323

Keywords: jeff thorman, home reno, renovation, bathroom, do it yourself, diy, how to, tutorial, step by step, tile, large format tile, tile clip leveling system, peygram leveling, can i tile over concrete, tile on concrete, uncoupling membrane, crack isolation membrane, can i tile on concrete floor, basement tile floor, tile floor, cracked foundation, mapei, concrete floor, how to tile floor, protect tile, concrete slab tile, affordable, cost effective, floor assembly, never crack

Id: SkrcARVRFf8

Length: 19min 22sec (1162 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 17 2017