How to install CR-Touch on Ender 3 v2 and CR-Touch REVIEW

hello youtube welcome to my new video in this one we are going to attach cr touch into a crayola and r3 version number two and i'm going to show you step by step how to make it we will start from the hardware we will do the cable management connecting to the motherboard and we will edit its firmware and do all those kind of stuff and we will do all the ssh steps it is pretty easy in the description of this video i put the jumps between the steps so if you want to move forward you can definitely do that and all the details are in the description down below you will need some links to download something rare and those links are also available in the description below before we start don't forget to subscribe to my channel and if you have any questions comment down below and if you like this video hit the thumbs up button and now we will move on to the hardware step right now i have my crail tender 3 version 2 right here and we are going to install our bl touch to our create and that version number two but before that we are going to shut it down and unplug it so from the back of it i shut it down and unplug it so the machine will stop first steps first is the safety next we are going to get our cr touch and install it to the our end r3 version number two okay i got my cr touch and this is the cable connection we have and it has two sides this will go to the board this will connect to our cr touch there's no wrong way to put it in because it's a one-way socket and you are going to hold it like this and plug it in this one plugged in next what i'm going to do is to get my attachment and we are going to attach it together i'm going to attach it like this and fasten it this bracket connection is for kriltender 3 version 2 there are other socket connections too so get this one and another reminder there are there are screw threads on this portion so when we hold our circuit like this we are going to turn it upside down and we will put the screws from here and the screws that i'm going to use for that section is going to be metric three eight millimeter ones and i'm going to connect them so after i get my matrix to eight millimeter screw and the related end wrench i am going to hold my crt edge and the bracket aligned and after you align the hole it's just fastening all the way in i'm going to do the same for the other connection other hole here i'm just gonna get it and fasten it okay this one is done connected the cr touch with the bracket over here now i'm going to connect this bracket to the extruder on my cr10 okay the assembly is completed up to this point now we are going to connect it to the exterior over here i'm gonna get this two fasteners metric to six millimeters and this time just let you know that this one has the full hole so i'm gonna put it in here but this over here the bracket screw holes on it so basically put it in and fasten it and next is to put the second screw in there and fasten it so i just completed fastening the bottom one and i'm going to fully fasten the top one i didn't fully fasten it okay got it and it is solid as rock so right now our bl touch is connected we will reroute the cable and then we will connect this cable to the motherboard so let's do the re-routing now i'm going to follow the same route here to re-wrap my cable so i just pull this one out from there and one by one i'm going to cut these zip ties and connect my cable and then re-zip tie them i'm just gonna give it a little bit slack check out this so i gave it a little bit slack over here okay i didn't make it to all the way tight now we are going to move to the second zip tie portion previously to these zip ties my tubing was connected but i upgraded my tubing to the bolden setup so i forgot to take out the zip ties so yours might be already carrying the baldon tube in there so just replace it it's the same thing and we are going to cut the last final one okay now i re-routed it so i'm going to cut these extra portions now i'm going to continue re-routing it for a bit until this point i have more zip ties here so i'm gonna put one more one more to here and i'm cutting the extra portions again let's get a little bit wider i get the cable rerouted from here by following this one and as you might remember we need to attach this piece here so that it doesn't get into the way of the print don't forget to give it enough slack before you do that and the other thing that we need to be careful of is when the z-axis goes all the way up our cable should not pull it down and when our z-axis is all the way up you just need to give it a little bit slack over there i get my cable from here so that it can go all the way down to this portion i decided to add two more when it goes up like this so let's do two more here here this is definitely up to your taste and you can skip this portion to the next one if you don't wanna uh continue doing these zip ties but i like organized much better than unorganized also one other rule of thumb is when you are using these zip ties do not over tighten them because you might end up damaging your cables just tighten them enough to hold the cable organized not like chalk the cables simply this portion is done so what i do also suggest i don't have it with me right now but i'm going to definitely do it is there are aluminium profile uh 3d printed parts where you can print it and lock it here and turn it and you can basically make your cable hold and organize in there so i will share the file when i find it or you can just like comment down below the thing givers link or any other link that has that stm file that we can print and put it in there so you could be faster than me we will have that file we'll put it in so that we can zip tie this cable to here as well and now we are going to the next step where we connect this to the motherboard now we are going to open the motherboard portion and remove the z connection so let me remove this connection from here and we are going to remove this cable other end from the motherboard and we are going to connect our cable into there so when we are here before we open it make sure that you remove all the dust from your printers portions the slots over here as you can see this is a working printer and i'm keep 3d printing with it as a result it just accumulates in there and yeah just clean it so that they don't fall into the motherboard area when we open it okay so with the proper allen wrench just open it if the alienware is just come with ndr3 version 2 does the job remove this screw from here taken out and there's one more screw at the back that we need to take out for that pull the bed all the way in and remove the second screw from here as well second screw is longer than the first screw don't forget this is first screw this is the second screw and i'm going to put the bed back now we have to remove two more screws over here and for that i need a different element range a bigger one put it in and turn it i'm not making the advertisement of capricorn they were giving me the logo when i ordered from them so it's paid but i taped it here and i never think that i will be making this video so here capricorn free advertisement huh just remove these screws so here i have two more screws under it i'm going to remove them as well we are back to the small rail range and at this point we have one more screw left we are going to remove this too okay so be careful when removing there is this um cable that goes to the fan so you don't want to damage that so i just left it hanging but you can just like remove this for the ease of the job and we are going to plug it back in the main important thing why i remove all the cables is we want to reach out our z-axis from here to out for that i wanted to remove this so from the back find your z-axis limit switch connection and pull it and goes under your cables pull it back okay and now your z-axis the message connection is in here you want to remove it all the way just pull it out so we removed it and we have this wire right i'm gonna put it under the circuit caption over here you can see so i'm putting it over here and i'm bringing it back to where it was before so that i can arrange it see it's like this and we are going to connect this to the place that is below it so let's take a look at it close so this is the location where we remove the z-axis the missive and this is a circulation where we are going to put it in just plug it in and it is done we plugged it in make sure that you don't pull any other cables and we are going to put back our fan connections here so what i'm going to do is give a little bit slag and actually you can pull this under all these cables too i'm gonna do that so i'm just gonna let's do this i'm just gonna re-route it from under this bulk okay you don't need to do this but if you want to do it just do it and then i just basically plugged it back in here so push it all the way make sure it is plugged and it's not going to come back don't pull anything too harshly the touch connection is done and you might also see here it says the blt bl touch so there was an already designated space for that we are going to put back everything what i'm going to do is to get my um i get my fan cable and i'm going to connect it back to here as it was before so it is connected and now we are going to put our shielding back and remember the cable connection locations some of them were coming from the bottom okay and this one was here so we are going to connect back those screws that we took in this is a longer screw compared to the other two okay the bottom screws are good now we are coming back to the other screw part that we detached now i'm going to put back these two other screws so these two are fastened last two screws left here are the last two screw locations remember this one was a short screw and the other one behind the bed as a tall one okay fastened and i wanna grab your attention to here the main reason that we took all those screws not only the three bottom is basically give a space right in here so that we can put the socket head now i'm going to pull my band and i'm going to install the final one here okay i fastened this one back now our cr touch connected with the cable and communications everything next thing i'm gonna take this one off because we don't need it anymore because it's not connected you can use it for other purposes okay this one's taken out as you guys can see at this point with this video we completed the hardware section so we connected touch with the socket to the rx to the reroute the cable down and we connected to the motherboard and we connected to the motherboard of our printer create r3 version 2 and we removed the z limit switch that was already connected to this printer what we are going to do next is update this firmware so that it can recognize the cr touch and we can start testing it and reviewing the quality okay now since we completed the hardware stuff what we are going to do is software so as you can see on my screen i went to the creator.com download in here we are going to download the software that we need for our create and that version number two so come to the end our series on the screen and in here you will see ender 3 version to 3d printer same preview for bl touch and cr touch click this one so after you click this one there will be different options over here will come up so we need to download one of these two either for 4.2.7 main board or 4.2.2 main board so where do you see this if you can recall in the assembly step that where we were connecting the main board where we were connecting the z socket to our main board in there if you remember i zoomed in and show you the main board number so make sure you take and look at that properly hopefully you did and take a note of it this is either 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 in mind i'm putting the picture here yours you should get to the same place it is 4.2.2 so click that one and it will download it so save it to the desktop and click save also i find a really good video on version 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards they are discussing it and please make sure to watch that video if you are interested in it it will give you a lots of know-how so here it is from th 3d studios i forget to subscribe them let me subscribe them and don't forget to subscribe to my channel too and i'm putting that into the link down below including the link where to download the firmware for your ender 3 version 2. and this step will be it now what we are going to do plug in our sd card flash it and install this zip file into our sd card simply we will get our sd card and plug it in okay and our computer will read it here is our zip file it is right in here i downloaded it to my desktop and this is our ndr3 version too and inside of it there are lots of things if you have the similar things inside of it just save them to somewhere else which i'm just going to create a folder in here and there three and three v2 yes sd card so i'm going to basically move everything inside this one because i'm going to delete everything in there by flashing it now i emptied all the files inside my and that's reversion 2. it's empty i copied to my desktop this is something that i don't need at this point and i'm going to flush it so for me i'm using mac and we're just going to use mac and increase it just a regular flash and i'm going to do that it's going to be the same thing and i think it's not going to make too much of a difference but if you have a windows you should do it with fat32 let's do this it's gonna just erase it amount of mounted bag it should be a very quick aries and it is done i'm just going to close it and it's back here empty fresh and now i have this zip file i'm just going to unzip it open it there's this bin file dot bin i'm just going to move that bin file inside my sd card and unplug it and then i will put it into the printer and run it so this should be very quick so the computer part is done let's eject this and plug it in now we are back in our printer i'm just gonna plug this one in the sd card and we will look into the board here and it's gonna take around 10 to 15 seconds to upgrade the firmware i'm just gonna run it it's coming it opened late from the previous as you can see our firmware is updated and now this logo here before was info available now it's a level logo and the information section that was there printed information went under the control and info so you can still see it in here let's go back and in here let's click prepare and click auto home but not level so what i'm going to do is just auto home the printer x y z and after that we will move on to the leveling of the bed with the cr touch [Music] and it goes to the center to complete the z-axis homing done the auto home is done printer is waiting mode right now very important step here is basically take the sd card and delete the firmware that we put inside of it that is the dot pin file otherwise we'll keep re-uploading the firmware again and again each time we run the printer on now i'm going to delete that okay now i plugged it in as you can see it's in here everything is done wprom.here so i'm going to delete this.bin file because we don't want it to regenerate every time and it should be it is very it stores the leveling mesh okay now i basically emptied the firmware from my sd card and put back my old files into it make sure that there is no other firmware file in there otherwise it will basically change everything back to the previous one so simply this is done just close it and eject it and this file is empty for me move the trash and eject this now i'm going back to the printer and install it now what i'm doing is i put my sd card back after deleting the firmware in there and i'm just gonna run the printer and make sure everything is everything is normal and there's no downgrade to the previous framework as you can see when there's no firmware update it just opens really quickly and we are still on the correct runway and when i go to the print i can see all my previous prints in there too but it's not matter anymore because we are going to do one more software trick before we continue with the new prints so it was probably pointless to carry my old prints in there but i just want to keep them anyways okay we plug back the sd card and everything is looking fine what we are going to do is click prepare and click auto home so the system will auto run itself first okay as you can see now it's autumn but it's above the bed and we need to control the z offset but before that i will click the move and moves my z to the zero position so i will go to this i will tell the z to go to the zero position so when i click it it goes to zero position and here we got a close look so this is a zero position of the z and we need to right now arrange the z offset so i'm basically on the screen clicking the z offset and i want it to go down like let's say 0.2 millimeter at this point and when i click this the z will go over down and i'm going to change that so we need this paper over here and i click that and as you can see it goes your point down 0.2 down but it's not enough and now we are going to go down more i'm going to make it 0.4 i don't want to crush it to my bed now it's more close but my paper is not getting any friction yet minus 0.6 still no freaking i get the friction on the paper i can feel the vibration of the fan and to be honest with you guys my zero set is one minus 1.5 which is pretty high but that is how it is and now i'm going to click this as the mine z offset okay and now i can remove this i get the group good grip on the paper where my zips are minus 1.5 so it worked that way now we are going to go to the main bed leveling so i will click level and it says auto leveling here now it what leveling going on and i'm going to put the camera here and we will watch it goes and it will do a nine point leveling for us and it will be completed after that so that the leveling will be done okay leveling is completed and now we will go and now we will go do a test print and we need to change one more thing on cura that i'm going to show you now what we are going to do is to change one settings and cura so this is our cruelty and dirty version too i have my test print ready in here which i will do with the same settings uh to compare the manual leveling results versus the auto leveling results so you will come here and click settings and in here come printer and click manage printers in here you will find creation data version 2 and click machine settings and again in here you will see start g code okay under g78 where you home all the um axes you will click g79 and this will do the mesh leveling for us every step actually have a nine point mesh leveling for us so you will just create put here g29 and that's it close it if you wanna double check if you put it and if it's saved which is saved come here and again you will see that there's g29 here and that's it very simple very straightforward and now the name of g code that we send every time every selection object can generate g code there will be gt event in mind which will give our ender tree version 2 a command to make that nine point leveling mesh and that's it now i'm going to use the same settings that i did before to create this leveling test platform and i'm going to print that again i mean i'm just going to click slice and it's going to take 28 minutes i'm going to save it to my um sd card and i'm going to rename this as auto underscore over here it's renamed and i'm going to now save it to my um sd card and stick it to save so to be like precise right now i'm just gonna come here this is the inside of my g code and this is the auto the one that i just saved and let's open it and yeah just let's open it and you can see from the top when you go down you can see g29 right in here where it will do the nine point leveling for us and let's start this okay now i can eject my um sd card and start printing now i came back to printer plug the sd card in one more time and i came to here and click print and here is my final g-code with the g29 command in it and i'm going to print the bed leveling test stl that i get from th 3d and we will print it after i complete this test sample we will take a look at the test sample when i use manual leveling versus the auto leveling with the cr touch and how consistent the print height is let's start the sprint now the print is starting it just did the gt98 now it's moving to the g29 where it's going to conduct nine point leveling after autohoming it is step 8 so far you guys are completed all the requirements and now your printer is basically working with the cr touch and what i'm going to do is to review as you can see i 3d printed this bed leveling test test piece and i took it out and right now they are in front of me the left hand side you can see the when i do the manual bed leveling so i call them manual so manual top right manual top left bottom left bottom right and this is the automate auto bed leveling with the cr touch top left top right button left bottom right and these are designed to be 0.3 millimeter thickness so we are going to look for which one is more uniform for 0.3 millimeter thickness what i'm going to do is to measure them at five random locations per piece and see how they are off from 0.3 millimeter and show you guys some average and show you guys some average values and standard deviations for each and we are going to take a look at them and on my exam file here my excel file and i have all the values here on the left section i have the values after automatic bad level and by using cr touch on the blue section i have the manual bed leveling results after print i measured them and as you can see here i have all the locations marked for both of them starting from bottom right bottom left top right top left and center and for each location i get five different samples randomly measured so i randomly selected points for each sample print and as you can see we have this average values per section starting for the automatic bed leveling it's it starts with zero point three zero point twenty nine seven nine twenty eight zero three then we look at the manual uh bed leveling section i do see lower values towards the top left and bottom left where i see zero point and 0.25 these are all in millimeters by the way and these values shows me that my left section of the print bed was a little bit crook like this and here i also represent the standard deviations too for your comparison and then we look at the overall average i think that's what i'm going to focus on the most is vc overall bad average at different locations when i measure with the caliber it is 0.29 millimeters and the real value that we want to see is 0.3 millimeters so 0.01 millimeter ish is off h less than that and standard deviation when you look at it is 0.009 millimeters which is like really low value as i want to recall 0.3 millimeter is the real value that we want to see in the final print and here when we look at the overall bed the then i do the manual leveling i think i'm doing really good manual leveling uh it is 0.28 millimeters it's like 0.02 millimeter off from the reality but when you look at the standard deviations when you use the cr touch it is more uniform throughout the bed so you get a really low standard deviation and when you use the when you use the manual bad leveling it is human error that's what we can do but again it's low to 0.02 so what i'm going to conclude here is basically siata is doing a really good job in terms of the precision and if you want to use it use it if you are feeling you are not enough and if you are feeling like you want to go real good in the size of the prints go with the cr touch if you are doing your if you are doing real good bed leveling by hand sure continue doing that because like the difference is 0.01 millimeter but the good thing is this machine is going to do it automatically for you when you use a cr touch and i think that is really important thing to have as a winner out there because you don't want to do the bad leveling all the time by your hand that's time consuming i think this concludes my review section i like it i love it uh bl touch versus cr touch i think those are almost a similar thing and and from the creative's website if you are going to buy the sierra touch or bl touch uh both of them like almost the same value there are like couple dollars difference in between i would go with the sierra touch because it's more looking good it's a little bit darker i like the good cover in there but it really doesn't matter at this point i'm also putting one more video down into the link where another youtube channel compared sierra touch versus blt is really good regarding the repeatability of the measurements they find sierra touches much better on uh that compares with the bl touch i think that's something to consider too however the difference was very low it's the final words for sierra touch i think i like it a lot and i show you guys the precision of the cr touch itself in this video we didn't do a direct comparison of the belfast versus sierra touch and you can see that in another video that i put the link down below but as far as i know the bl touch has a replaceable tape crash doesn't have it it doesn't seem to break very easily or crush it to your bed it's very low probability but it would be better to have a replaceable tip as far as i understand however it is not a big drawback in my scenario i really like it it looks good there's like a couple bucks difference between them and the cruelties website but again go watch that video in the link description below you will see a much detailed review between co you will see a much detailed comparison between them based on my review it definitely is superior than doing a manual bed leveling and it's gonna give you more time to drink your coffee because it's an auto bed level and you don't need to do anything it is easy i think this entire video is a guide to how to install it much better than the uh the piece of manual paper that comes with it because they're like some confusion points that i try to understand a little bit harder so i think this video will help you a lot for the entire assembly steps and how to do step by step i keep it long for the video it's safe so that you guys don't miss any step and i show it basically clearly out there when i'm doing as well so that should help you a lot and last word i think i like it am i going to buy it yes and i would like to put it to my cr-10 cr-10s and r3 as well i think it's a really valuable i think it's a really valuable auto leveling bed sensor yeah that's all and this is the end of the video i hope you guys like it if so click the thumbs up button don't forget to subscribe to my channel if you want to share this with your friends please do it so and i can get more views and i like it and i get motivated when i'm continuing these videos and yeah if you have any questions comment down below and see you guys in the next video

Channel: 3D Printing Doctor

Views: 176,443

Keywords: ender 3v2 crtouch, cr-touch, crtouch install, ender3 v2 cr touch install, ender-3v2, ender 3v2 bltouch, ender 3v2 firmware update, ender-3 v2 bltouch, ender-3 v2 3d printer upgrades, bltouch ender 3 v2, bltouch install, bltouch ender 3 v2 install, bltouch ender 3 v2 firmware, ender 3 v2 bltouch install guide, ender 3 v2 bltouch wiring, creality ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware, ender 3 v2, bl touch ender 3 v2, ender 3 v2 bed leveling, ender 3 v2 bltouch firmware, ender 3 v2 bltouch

Id: lN5n7Dy0quk

Length: 35min 17sec (2117 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 10 2021