3D Printer Upgrade Tutorial: How to fully upgrade a Creality Ender 3 V2

what's up guys pj here from 3d printing canada and today in front of me i have an ender 3v2 i'm literally going to turn this thing into a totally different printer things going to be worth over a thousand dollars by the time i'm done with it let's get to that video [Music] to start off i'll show you a couple things we're going to install so what i have in front of me first is i have our linear rail kit now this gives you z access y-axis and x-axis linear rails next so that's four linear rails one for each side of the z as well now we're going to install the dual z kit along with the micro swiss linear rail direct drive kit my favorite we're also going to reduce the weight in the stepper motor driving the extruder to a 25 mil pancake stepper motor take some of that weight down and avoid ringing the saat santa custom mount of course the yellow springs a bl touch and a wham-bam flexible build system now you can also use carbon fiber or stick with the glass but we're going to go with the wham-bam flexible build system for this video so we're going to start guys by opening up the linear rail kit it's going to be the best one to start installing if you're going to go all out and do them all at the same time so we'll open up the first one which comes with our first round of linear rails and our second round of linear rails then in the big box you get all the other fun stuff all the different mounting plates so first we're going to start by taking the bed off and we're going to install our first rail kit part which is the bed plate and we'll install everything start by removing the leveling knobs all right so we got all four of our leveling knobs off take this glass build plate off okay next we're gonna remove the brace here and we'll loosen the belt tension and we'll take the wheels off all right there's our old bed plate with wheels now we are going to have to remove the actual motor to feed the belt through so we're going to take this off take that out we don't want to lose these screws because we'll be putting them back in after we get the belt line through take the front tensioner off so now that we have the belt fed through the 40-40 extrusion the easiest way to do that is to tape it to a coat hanger and send it through and then just replace your back motor again with the two screws and then we'll move around to the front where we will loop back through the belt tensioner and i like to leave myself enough room the belt tensioner back on just thread the little blue knob on there and then go ahead and take your three mill driver and your three mil screws and reinstall it okay now that we have that installed we're gonna move on to the next step in installing some of the hardware and the linear rail to the plate all right so after you've taken the t-nuts they provide in the hardware we're going to want to go ahead and place this rail into the left side or the right side if you're facing the front front of the printer you can print a piece to clip into here to make it line up but i prefer to use a set of verniers and measure and have it be very precise so after we've started after you've installed the rail you've either used it to use the piece you've previously 3d printed to guide it so it's even or you've taken a set of verniers and just measured the distance between here and here all the way down you want to i just snug them up at first and then i go ahead and tighten down so now we have the bearing and rail installed rolls nice and smooth all right so next we're going to actually install the belt i'm going to show you here there's a couple little pieces that come in the kit the little clamp piece and then this triangular piece go ahead and pre-install and leave loose the little clamp piece it comes with just leave that loose so you can feed your belt through i've already done one for example here now if you take a look at the plate make sure you do this the right way i've made the mistake already once that if if you have these flipped on the opposite side of each other as you can see it'll be wrong and it'll be the bearing won't be able to bolt down so what we're going to do is take this now throw it on here get it hand started there and then i'll thread it down of course not tightening it and then i'll get the other three installed all right so just make sure you have this on the right way with the two bigger holes they'll be facing the if you're looking at the printer the right side of the printer and the smaller one being in the front so once you have your first belt looped in go ahead and take that second belt send it through pull it taut go ahead and pull that as taut as i can tighten down and then i will cut this off leaving a little bit just in case i have to do anything with it again we'll leave a little bit there next i will install the plate to the linear bearing so just find the holes line them up again don't over tighten there we go we have our linear rail installed okay so the next step we're going to install the end stop so what you're going to have to do is on the back of the machine here normally this is in here like so there's one screw down here you're gonna take it out you kind of gotta pop this off then you're gonna go ahead and unscrew your end stop from right here okay we won't be using any of the hardware then you'll have this blue piece here you're just gonna take the two screws that are in a bag by themselves screw your ends top down and now this is the m4 our m5 style nut and t-nut so we're going to want to take those get them ready ahead of time get your t-nut on there and then again when you're installing t-nuts always just have them threaded on loosely like so that way you can wiggle it into place etc so what i'm going to do is before i even tighten that down i'm going to position it to make sure i know it's hitting that end stop properly you don't want your bearing to come off the track and drop balls so now that i've got that in place i'll take my to my three millimeter driver i'm gonna recheck to make sure where it hits the bearing there we go but doesn't [Applause] actually let the bearings come off of the ball so just make sure those turn inside if they don't your end stops not going to be secured correctly so now i'm actually going to go ahead install the end stop and there we go now the end stops installed now we might be able to fit this piece back on i really don't think so no so the stock piece doesn't look like it'll fit back over so i'm sure there might be something on thingiverse i'll have to actually take a look to cover that piece not necessarily like you need it but it will not fit back on now as you can see our bed comes back hits the end stop as well as does not lose any of the ball bearings so the next step is really simple we're just going to go ahead and install our new bed springs so we've got the yellow bed springs here all right because uh the ones that come with the kit i mean to save cost reality obviously uses some less tense springs very simple to install your bed springs i like to do one side at a time so i always start with the the beds excuse me the bed power side so i'll get those two installed first okay there's one two i'll just go ahead and actually get the wheels started here so i'm not going to level the bed yet i'm just going to get them on there there's that side and then i'll take and do the other side this way you can just carefully lift up slide your spring in same with the other side carefully lift up slide the spring in and then go ahead and we will take bed knobs we'll take our bed knobs there and get them on now i'm just starting this i'm not actually going to go any further with that but what i am going to do seeing how we have the bed on we're going to take my favorite build plate for pla we're going to take our wham-bam sheet we're going to install the magnet and show you guys what's going on with the wham-bam and as well as do the steel wool part so you have your spring steel and your magnet now these magnets are good up to around 120c and they won't let go they're a high-powered magnet and we're going to go ahead and install this one it's got the 3m sticky on it and then we're going to peel off this here it's got a protective coat uh plastic on top the first thing you want to do is scuff this up with the steel wool and then take some alcohol and clean it after before printing on it so very simple circular motions going to scuff it up this is so your print will stick to the pecs so make sure we scuff that up really good and you can put it aside for later down the road if it's kind of not adhering as well anymore also you can put another piece of pex or any other material you'd like on the other side whether it be polycarbonate or anything like that wham-bam sells all those different pieces so you could have it a double-sided mat or you could just use the spring steel and some glue stick on the other side depending on what you're printing say you were switching to pet g you could just flip it over put a bunch of glue stick on there and print on the spring steel side i actually do that a lot here in the shop so once we're done here the steel wool we're going to take alcohol spray that down i like to use isopropyl alcohol the 99 stuff it works the best so we'll take and clean that off but before we do that we're going to go ahead and we're going to move to installing the magnet now we want to make sure this is all clean this is a brand new printer so i'm not too worried now what i like to do when i'm installing these is i like to just peel back a little bit here just peel back the first little section like so so you can grab it now this is me a little awkward on camera but i'm gonna go ahead and take it make sure you line it up good that way you've just got the front started and you can slowly i like to do it slow just kind of pull back that 3m protective film away from the glue and i just slowly i don't like to do it quick because we don't want any bubbles or anything going wrong in this process so just nice and slow like that slow and steady always wins the race and it's going on beautifully [Applause] bambam also gives you some instructions in there for people who might be a little curious [Applause] about how to do it but this is how i like to do it and that's it no bubbles no problems that magnets on there perfect go ahead and slap the wham-bam sheet on there we'll clean it with some alcohol later on before we start our test print for now we'll just leave it for the video purpose okay guys so the next step we're going to do here we're going to take off the top bar as well as our whole ex gantry that way we can install both z rails as well as the dual z setup all at the same time it'll also make it easier to reassemble our x gantry pieces in the process so first things first i'll take off these top bars because we've already built this ender correctly we won't have to worry about any slat slack in the um [Music] and the z's at all so the linear rails will be nice and smooth because everything's squared and true since we have that out we'll go ahead and set that aside carefully take off our x excantry and i'll just turn to get this side off so we want to go ahead and take our t-nuts and get them all set up ahead of time into our linear rails to make it easier for installation so you want to do at least five and space them out accordingly there's one with all the t-nuts set up and we'll go ahead and do the second one all right so now that we've got all of our t-nuts and screws into our linear rail we want to go ahead and put something on the bottom here to stop the bearing from falling off so so the bearing doesn't fall out i've just put a screw in place here we don't lose the bearing while we're doing this now what i like to do here just get that in there and this is just going to be a temporary hold for now so i'm not lining it up i'm just getting it in here temporary i'm just gonna snug it up and then i'll line everything up afterwards this is just a temporary hold and some screws inside here for the bearing again just a temporary hold with that screw we'll take the second one and do the same thing i'll pop a longer screw in there let the bearing fall down on it and then again go ahead and install those now again i'll measure afterwards and line everything up afterwards so for now it's just a little temporary hold all right now that we have that installed i'm going to go ahead and get out my dual z and get the z rod and everything in place all right so next we're going to be taking apart the whole excantry literally everything's coming off of here we're not using any of the stock components not even this extruder motor so we're gonna go ahead start by taking off this side with a 2.5 if you've got a brand new printer none of this will be assembled it'll make your life a lot easier we're going to go ahead and take off all these components quickly go ahead and take this one off and i will peel off this little sticker let's get rid of that two mill driver to get this one off go ahead and take the motor off all right so next you're going to take this plate here make sure you're laying down your bar so this is the one with the two closer screw holes facing like this after you've got that installed and tightened down so actually when it's done it's going to look like this and there'll be some standoffs in between the two so i'm gonna go ahead and install the longer screws and these two spacers there we go just line it up with the motor kind of hold it in place get one started and i'll hold it still get the second one started so next we're going to install the other piece which is going to be with these two screws and these nuts as well as this standoff so i'll start by installing one a little temporary hold for now so i have room to install the other one the first one tightened down and then the second one now you want to make sure the holes line up so when you're tightening down just double check to make sure mine didn't line up so i'm just going to loosen them off a bit then what i'm actually gonna do is take one of my drivers here put it through that way as i'm tightening they don't go off kilter there's one go for the second side all right and now we have our first section of the ex-gantry installed all right so now that we've got the x motor and carriage installed we're going to go ahead and put the lead t-nut in just take your two-mill driver [Applause] thread it down now i just snug these up in the beginning because we want to make sure we have free moving z-rod and you want to go ahead and take the next bracket and your 2.5 and install that you get the x gantry onto the z blocks take your 2.5 driver just get that one in place for a second and we're gonna do the dual z so we'll be installing the second dual z bracket also for this part you're gonna use the longer bolts not the ones you use to install your linear rails you're going to use the longer ones they provide you eight of them just for this reason because of the double plate so now that we have that installed we're going to go ahead and put our last rail on now that i've got all this rail prepped up i'm going to go ahead and plop it in place now again i won't be tightening any of these down right off the hop reason being is i'm going to need to align everything correctly so you want everything nice and clean and aligned properly so i'm just putting this in temporarily just like disease this is extremely important here like i said guys you can go ahead and there's a piece you can print to line these up or you can do it like i do and i like to measure with vern yards to make sure each point coming down my z as well as my x are level that way my print isn't crooked due to the rail being crooked so keep that in mind guys you can either go ahead and print the piece out ahead of time before you do all the upgrades or you can do it like i do and just choose a set of vernier calipers so you can go ahead and use those if you'd like again this is just temporary snugging it in there next thing i'm going to do is disassemble my head unit and the stuff i need from here which isn't much the only thing i'll be utilizing out of the head unit will be the thermistor heater cartridge and fans everything else is useless now useless for our application anyways we'll be using a micro swiss direct drive linear rail kit my opinion it's uh i mean if you've got a creality machine or a machine with a end stop on the side here like so you might as well put it on there unless you need to print peak or altem i mean you can hit that thing at 300 i do it all the time i've never had a problem so i'll go ahead and remove these really simple process guys don't be afraid to do this kind of stuff to your printers because it's just nuts and bolts and creality already has the firmware for the bl touch available so you really don't have anything to worry about at the end of the day it's pretty simple so we'll take our 1.5 here remove our thermistor set screw or excuse me our heater cartridge set screw and then we'll take a phillips and remove the set screw for that and i'll take that one all the way out way it doesn't pinch on anything and the two should just come right out especially if your printer's new should pop right out no problem now i'll just cut away these zip ties and literally we are not going to use this ever get rid of that okay now i'm just gonna take out these fans two screws for the heatsink fan and there's a few for the part cooler which i'll show you guys in a moment so you got one here it's a phillips go ahead and remove that one here two mil and then another one right here try not to lose your hardware here at 3d printing canada we sell hardware so i'm lucky that way i can just turn around and go get some more if i need it so don't be like me let your screws drop all over the place because we all know how they can disappear into the carpet okay so next we're going to be installing the micro swiss linear rail kit here and our 25 mil pancake stepper motor we're not using the stock motor anymore so you won't need any of this this is all see you later no more we'll start off with the bracket provided hardware so now that we have the front face plate on we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna take our pancake stepper motor and we're gonna install that next onto the plate for your linear rail kit i absolutely love the lightweight motor as opposed to the stock motor again that's an option you guys don't have to they're only 19 canadian so i mean to me it's worth it to lose the weight with a direct drive you'll definitely lose you'll have less ringing having a lighter motor so now i'll just put on that idler arm and then we'll take our heat sink and now one of the last things we'll actually end up doing is installing the nozzle and heat break and everything because i like to heat tighten those without them on the system so first thing i do is install the heat sink and the bowden tube and all that fun stuff go ahead and install our piece of bowden tube our little red clip you want to make sure that's facing the right way when you install it but first thing let's get our gear on go ahead and we'll take our drive gear the screw side facing in towards the motor loosen it off so it'll go on and what i like to do is bring the idler arm up now be careful when you're tightening that set screw you do not want to strip it and we'll go ahead and take one of our screws for our heatsink insert the bowden tube like so and get our set screw our uh screw for our heat sink in place just snugging that up there i'm not over tightening it also going to take the set screw that holds your heat break in it's that little tiny guy again be careful with these don't want to strip the aluminum just put that in place for now our second screw line them up tighten down all right there you go have our bowden tube installed just make sure everything's clean in there yep everything lines up well next we take this bolt then the spring and then our thumb turn nut we'll go ahead and install that now extremely important we do not want the thumb turn nut to have the so you don't want the screw sticking out far like that you'll just wear your gears out and stress out your motor just to the end like that that's perfect that's enough tension on there everything's good okay now that i've got that installed i'm going to go ahead and i'm going to install the thermistor heater cartridge and heat break here we'll actually power up the printer heat tighten it and then we'll go ahead and go around and line up both of our z's and our x gantry rail go ahead and take that wrench a little tighten get our nozzle in there again we're gonna a little tighten them there i like to take my heater cartridge and thermistor and install them the reason i do it this way guys is because i even do my nozzle changes this way i don't want to take the chance of ever potentially bending my heat break or causing something weird like that to happen so even when i change my nozzles i actually take off the fan shroud piece and just take that set screw out drop your heat break so you can do what i'm doing now when you change nozzles and not have to worry about anything [Applause] now be careful whenever you're re-tightening down for the thermistor because if you pinch those wires and make them bare you're going to get a short if you've done that you'll be running a new thermistor in so now i'll just take and tighten down the heat cartridge like so nothing's coming out and i'll dangle the fans over the back here careful not to get the heatsink fan blades in anything we'll actually plug the printer on turn it on we're going to heat up to 260 heat tighten the nozzle install it and move forward okay so now that i've got this printer up to temperature this is where you need to be careful it is always going to thermal run away 90 of the time because you're putting an adjustable wrench on a hot block it's gonna drop it below the 10 degrees uh and as a safety feature it's gonna shut down so the quicker you do it you might not have it shut down on you so get that on there hold it extra little tighten now that's it i did it quick enough that it's not gonna thermal run away but if you oh there you go see it dropped low enough in temperature that we thermal run away now that's normal i'm putting a big adjustable wrench on there it's instantly taking the heat out of the block but now that that's done we don't necessarily recommend doing this while it's hot you can burn yourself i do it all the time so i do actually take my seven mil wrench i kind of grab here like so on the nozzle so i can just insert that into the heat sink now i'm not going to give this as a recommendation i don't want you guys to burn yourself but this is how i do it you can wait till it cools down or you can do it this way just if you burn yourself it's not my fault i can actually feel the heat transferring into my wrench while i'm doing so now we don't ever want to lose this little clip this is really important you can pick them up at hardware stores and hobby shops and stuff little c-clip little e-clip i think they call them it goes in the top here to hold that little piece of bowden tube to help guide it in so we don't want to lose that i'm going to throw it in the box for now until we get to that step now that we've got that all heat tightened we've got the heater block installed i might as well go ahead and put the sock on now before we put any fan shrouds on but before we do any of that i'm actually going to take these screws out i use to you can tape your bearings too as well so you don't have to worry about things like that happening but i want to make sure that when this nozzle comes down to the bed my my z rails are not gonna i'm not gonna lose any bearings so it looks like they're good there and just to make it a little more accurate i will take that screw back in here so my so it doesn't fall down i'm gonna take a measurement this one was a lot nicer i'll take a measurement from the top of here and then i'll match it on the other side so the way i like to do it with my vineyards so i'll set that on the top and i'll just push that down until it touches the rail lock it in place and then i'll move this rail down until it's in place so get my 2.5 and loosen these off just a bit just enough that i can move everything so now it's got to move up just a little bit there we go now that's perfect go ahead and tighten the top one down i'll take a measurement from here and zero it out make sure it's clean zeroed i'll do the same thing here lock it in place and then i'll check the bottom and i'll put my vernier there and kind of push my rail in until it's flush tighten down there we go double check my measurement and it's still perfect so now i'm going to check just slightly up in my next screw perfect so just as long as those are even on both sides and i'm going to keep that measurement for the opposite side your rails should move up and down nice and smooth like mine perfect perfect crank those down perfect okay so the next step will be to install our belt tensioner and then tensioner belt so after you've ran your belt back through and hooked it on you've left this loose enough this is pretty straightforward just going to go ahead and take our 2.5 go ahead and install this one there we go we'll go ahead and tension that belt up make sure it's lined up underneath guys with the track that side's good and this side's a little bit off so i'll realign it pinching that belt there we go next i'm going to take the fan shroud and install all the fan shroud and we'll just slip our wires in there carefully line up our holes i like to put the first one in and i'll just snug it up i'll go ahead with the second one here just pivot it until i line it up with the hole and tighten down next i'll take our heatsink fan and i'll plop it in place i only use two screws to hold this in it's all you really need you can use four if you'd like but i'll just use the two for our build so now i've got some two by eight screws here to go ahead and install into this fan there's four four of them i'll actually use all four on this one just try not to over tighten them where you end up popping this plate off next i'll take the motor cable i'll install the motor cable to the e-cable here reinstall our x okay get all that installed now next step is is i'll take this i don't use the bowden tube i find it be a waste of time i just use it to hold the filament in place and then we'll take some of these zip ties here zip tie everything in place okay that's all our wiring managed now now i'll go ahead i'll reinstall the top piece now we have our top back installed all right and from here we're going to move on to our dual z so now that we got that all installed we're going to go ahead and i'm actually going to take the top off because for the dual z the top goes on last i'm also going to take off the spool holder and reinstall it later so we'll get rid of that spool holder we'll take off our top brace we're actually going to have to take out the existing z-rod and because we're using the fize tech kit here for the linear rails we don't need all the excess parts and hooking up to all the um old stuff so we won't be using this piece at all and a lot of the hardware won't be being used so we'll go ahead and remove that top piece i'll take out my other lead screw here go ahead and take this lead screw out because now it's too short for the dual so i'll go ahead and put the next lead screw in which is going to be the proper height go ahead and get that in and then i always lift up a little so it's not touching the motor shaft make sure you tighten those down good all right now we got that lead screw and we're going to go ahead and we're going to take the bigger bearings here and these plates we're going to go ahead and install those and give you some screws here like a thermistor hold in screw go ahead and we'll thread that in there and that's going to hold the bearing in place i'll install the second one same process next i am going to take and install the t-nut the lead screw nut excuse me got some screws right here for that i'll go ahead and take my two mill driver and i'll install that and the nice thing is with this kit they actually give you some room to play with here so i'll show you on this side and the nice thing is is you can move this back and forth if the z-rod doesn't line up properly so install the t-nut and again i'll just snug that down just in case i've got to move it in position so we're going to go ahead and take the bearing this way this way and then our spacer i'll let jaren zoom in on that that's how it should look and then that's going to go ahead and go through here with a nut okay so now we're going to reinstall our top bar along with the z plates here [Applause] looks like we have to use their hardware [Music] okay and i'll just snug those up i'll go ahead and i'll take the next one same step so go ahead and get that one installed and that second lead screw okay so now we'll go ahead and install the pulley system and you want that to be flush with the top of your z-rod go ahead and tighten those set screws in and go ahead and do that with this next pulley make sure we tighten those down good so next after we've got these installed we're going to go ahead and we're gonna take the t-nuts to the other piece we've already built a little guide wheel for the belt we're gonna go ahead and let's get those t-nuts on now we're not gonna tighten anything down yet because we're gonna make sure everything aligns and we're not binding at all now this isn't a dual z kit with a second motor they are out there we will make them available as soon as possible but for now we're just working with what we have in the store so this one's not running off of a motor it's more of just um to keep everything in sync so i'll just go ahead and again making sure those t-nuts turn inside because if not they won't grip anything sometimes i'll take a driver or something and flick it around in there just to get it to line up and now go ahead and take that belt it comes with loop it over the first one so now what you do is you take that piece and you've got it screwed in just make sure that last t-nut spins around i've been having a bit of a hard time with it so i'll go ahead and take the screwdriver and try and pre-spin it inside here because it's just giving me a hard time go ahead and push that all the way forward to keep the tension on the belt definitely need that tension on there we'll reinstall our spool holder and then we'll move on to our bl touch installation which is going to be very simple now you do lose a little bit of height with the direct drive on your printing volume but i mean i still think that's very sufficient height in my opinion for the size printer it is so losing about 20 30 mil isn't the end of the world all right so now that we've got most of the build done we're going to install our bl touch and flash the firmware but first things first because we're running a 422 board might be a 427 we'll see when we get inside but what we need to do is we need to put a 5 pin jst on there so we're going to crimp that the nice thing is we'll just d-pin this one and then we'll just crimp on ends onto this one at the same time i'm going to flip the printer sideways so you guys can see here we'll open up the bottom of the printer all right so after you cut off the servo lead you're going to go ahead and take wire strippers and strip off the ends once you've got them all stripped off like so we're going to take our crimpers then you take your crimper you put it in the 1.4 slot take your wire now this one you want to squeeze down very hard really make sure it gets a good solid crimp on the wire the second one you want to pre-fold the tabs over then go into the 1.6 this one you don't want to squeeze very hard because you don't want to kink the wire now so just a little bit of a compression there and it'll fold over like so repeat that through the other three so our bl touch cable is going to plug in with the tabs facing downward now what you need to keep in mind and you can look underneath here it shows you ground voltage signal ground signal so in that order you take your plug with the tabs facing down you go ahead and you insert the ground it should just pop right in and we go ahead and we take the power cable into the second hole and then your signal next step what i like to do so you don't have to crimp again is take a pair of tweezers now you need to be careful doing this but you don't damage it but i find if you take a pair of tweezers put it in the hole there push down you can go ahead and pull out your cable but then you got to take your thumbnail or a knife or a razor blade and lift that tab back up so it'll hold in place again like so it's probably really hard to see on camera but there's a little tab here and you need to lift that up okay we'll do the same thing with the black wire which is the ground i'll push that tab down and pull my wire out all right next again we go ground and then signal now what i like to do is i only use the one meter cable and you guys are gonna see why i don't route the bl touch in the same spot as everybody else i like to keep things simple and easy for you guys without a bunch of headaches of running cables through and potentially kinking the cable so i'll pre-install this and then you just kind of pinch move it down pinch move it down let me just squish that together and it'll keep going down it's a lot easier than running it through all the other cable and back to the board then you can save money on your cable by just getting the one meter and we also sell this braided cable stuff on our website we'll leave links for all these products in the description so you guys can purchase everything if you'd like that we have here today once i've got this ran all the way through i'm going to show you guys a little trick i do okay now what i like to do is i'll carefully pull off this crazy amount of glue that they put on it the factory so we can get the z end stop out we won't be using the xeon stop anymore so i'm actually gonna take this right out i'll be taking it out of the zn stop and removing the zn stop now all i do here is the little screw that's on the back here of the printer i loosen that off i don't take it all the way out when you loosen that off oh well it fell out so it's off now but now i can actually take that end stop and they can remove it right out of here now now i'll take that bl touch cable and i'll actually bring this end up through that hole where your zn stop comes out now that i've got that through i'll pull all the excess cable through [Applause] we'll flip it around in a second so you guys can see what's going on and what i like to do is sneak the bl touch cabling that way the fan can still cool the drivers without that in the way go ahead and plug in your bl touch cable now i'll actually reinstall that screw that just fell out if i can find where i put it ah there it is so make sure nothing's getting pinched and then i'll reinstall this [Applause] now i don't always recommend that you close up your board it's the first time you've done anything like this you might want to just unplug your fan and go ahead and not reinstall this just in case something you might have plugged something in wrong or something's not right i'm very confident in the work i've done today so personally i know that this is gonna go back together okay so i'll go ahead and i'll reinstall the bottom now you just want to be careful get that one that screw that goes for the opposite side over first and then i just take my two wheel driver go ahead and reinstall these and i like to actually so i'm going to remove i'm going to remove the zn stop first because we don't need that anymore so that's done just take that off save that you can use that as a spare if you ever break one on another axis so what i like to do is just run my bl touch cable through and put it through the hole ahead of time here i'm actually going to have to zip tie this after because it won't fit through the hole on my mount i'll go ahead and put it through first and i'll cut some of the mess back here all right we can go ahead and re-zip tie it we'll just install the bl touch first here plug it in and get our two set screws for the top i mean nuts for the top here pop those into our print there's one there's two and then we go ahead and take our screws pull that cable back through let z access up a little so i can get my driver in there and i'll go ahead and thread these in now so now that i have the right length screws for this bl touch because of course i grabbed the wrong ones we'll go ahead and drop one because it wouldn't be a video without pj dropping stuff and then what i like to do is i like to actually zip tie the cable around the bl touch so if it ever tugs it's not going to damage your bl touch plug might damage your cable but not your bl touch plug that's really important all right i'll have to get some more tie wraps and just kind of clean this up and put them together like so now our bl touch is installed we just simply have to flash the firmware and we'll bring my computer over we'll do our first home and get ready for uh some time lapse test prints guys okay guys so the first thing we're going to do here is we're going to go ahead and we're going to take our usb stick and plug it into our computer first thing you want to do is go ahead and right click over that h drive or whatever drive pops up for you format that now you want to go fat32 we don't want 32 kilobytes we want 4096. okay we're gonna go ahead and start that format if you needed to back up anything on the card go ahead and do that ahead of time i'm not worried it's all downloadable from creality's site if i ever needed it okay now that it's formatted i'm gonna go ahead i'm going to go into my downloads here actually let's just walk you through the right way we'll go to creality's website and we will add a site here and we'll go creality download okay we'll go to the download center and you're going to want to scroll down click on ender series enter 3v2 if you have the pro you're gonna want the pro okay so this is where a lot of people mess up i've noticed it a lot what you want if you've got the four two seven you select four two seven you get the four two two select four two two these are for the other um filament detection etc things like that so if you've already done filament detection and wanted to do stuff like that you can go ahead we're just gonna go ahead and download the 422 because that's the board we have all right now you're going to need winr or winzip to unpack this so now i'll go ahead and go back to my downloads i've got the 422 firmware here i'll right click on it i'm just going to extract it right back into my download folder double click on here double click on the file now we want bl touch without adapter board because we're not using the 27 pin board that plugs in with your screen we did a crimped end that's meant for the 5 pin jst so we'll go ahead and we'll select this one and what you're going to do is you're going to right click on there you're going to copy this you're going to go to your in my case h drive i'm going to go ahead and paste it here make sure we jack to our sd card all right i'm going to go ahead and i'm going to install the sd card move my computer out of the way a little bit here and i'll have jiren kind of zoom in on the screen so you can see what's happening i'm just going to get the power plug and plug this printer in all right so we'll plug her in and then i'm going to go ahead and turn the machine on and as soon as i turn the machine on the screen is going to go blank yes the bl touch is going to do its thing because it's plugged into 5 volt but the screen's blank right now it's going to take a minute it's writing the firmware once the firmware is written it's going to do the loading screen and we should have blue light on our bl touch this was a very long build video a lot of hard work went into it so i really hope you guys enjoy it [Music]

Channel: 3D Printing Canada

Views: 4,792

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Id: DpBEGGSE5Zs

Length: 60min 49sec (3649 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 25 2021