How To Install Baseboard Like A Professional With No Gaps! DIY Pro Tips And Tricks For Beginners!

in this episode of fix this house i'm going to be showing you how to install baseboards like a pro using my tips and tricks so you can have those nice tight corners and ends so stay tuned welcome back to fix this house if you're new to the channel please consider pressing the subscribe and notification bell so you can always be in tune on diys how-to videos and product reviews that i do within this channel as you can see not all walls while most walls including mine is not perfectly 90 degree angle so what we're going to do is we're going to manually measure each one of these base boards so that we can have that nice tight fit on every corner and each end so for here you can measure and mark off one of the ends against one of the baseboards on the corner or you can just measure it so on your miter saw you want to place your angle on a 45.5 angle so that's just a little tick mark right after 45 degrees between 45 and 46 now that is very important so that you can have the gap on the back side of your miter instead of on the front and you'll see that in a little bit after we make this cut so when you're cutting also another tip is that make sure you cut nice and slow if you cut too fast you're going to end up with a crooked line on the front so like what you see here on the left side i cut real nice and slow on the right side i went a little bit fast and you can see how little crooked that is so make sure you take your time to make that end nice and straight so take your time when you're cutting nice and slow with your measurement make sure you transfer your measurement from the end of the miter cut all the way to the end and then position your miter saw back into the middle and make sure you account for the thickness of the blade so as you can see that there is my laser mark and i account for the cut and the thickness of the blade now take your second measurement to the very end of the end of that wall now scoop it over to the 45 degree again 45.5 right between 45 and 46 angle and make that cut nice and slow make that miter cut and from the end of that miter cut and transfer your over your measurement mark it at the top and make your clean cut back to zero on the miter saw what we're gonna do now is we're just gonna position them we're not gonna nail them onto the wall just yet we're just gonna dry fit it as you can see right there it is nice and crisp at the very ends look at that how flush that is very beautiful and very professional looking and there is a gap on the wall as you can see because the wall is not perfectly 90 or even straight it has a little bulge here or there but we're going to count to that we're gonna use this activator and glue this is gonna make those two pieces join together now you're gonna place one end with the glue and the other end you're gonna spray it with the activator now be very careful three to four seconds right after you spray it it's gonna adhere in three to four seconds if you want a little longer wait time put glue on both ends so that will give you a little more free time to adjust but three to four seconds is what you got after you spray the activator and glue and this will hold up nice and tight so there you have it it's nice and flushed at each end and it just has that nice um no gap at the ends and there is what i'm talking about that little tiny gap at the back for accounting for that 45 degree well 45.5 degree cut now i'm just gonna place it right against the wall as you can see not all walls are straight including mine because mine is very old house and those walls are just curvy that's why the reason was a gap right there if we didn't use that glue and activator to glue those two pieces and i would just staple this separately that piece would have just sank right to the wall and would have not end up straight so this end i'm just gonna keep on a flat straight cut because i'll show you a little trick later on after i nailed this to the wall but now we're gonna nail it first right on each end two on both sides to be exact boom boom and then we're gonna go nail it at the ends right there um don't don't over staple it another trick that i like to use is i like to use my stud finder to find those studs so that you know where to stay staple those um nails or brad nails to the wall now i'm just marking those spots with masking tape just so for i can show you by instructional purposes only and then we're going to staple it right to where those tape marks are now just take it off easily nice and straight as we we see it now it's a little tricky working with this bigger piece right here you might need an assistant or somebody to help you out when you're cutting this miter because it is a long piece when you are going to be cutting that miter on that end so we're going to just butt it up right there and you can see that this one is way far too short it doesn't reach to the end and i'm going to show you a trick on that later on how to continue that cut now this one we're going to mark it to the 45 degree and then again we're gonna cut it right there 45 degree cut nice and slow cut that miter and here i want to show you a cool trick so flip it over just like that and then make sure that the blade is aligned right to the very edge so that it cuts um right on the very end on the 45 degree angle so that it's only cutting the back side the reason for this is we're going to stop right on the the profile right there on the curvature we're just cutting on the straight line this will help you save time so you don't have to cope this now what i'm doing is the cope what i'm using here is a coping saw with the with the blade and the teeth on the up stroke right there it's going on the up strokes because i'm going to be cutting on the upstroke motion and with your pencil mark the profile right there so that you know where you're going to be coping or cutting so i'm going to be slowly cutting on the upward motion until i get the nice and groove i'm going to be holding the one end with my hand so it doesn't break off because this stuff is very fragile so right when you get in the groove just start striking it on the upward motion depending on where you need your blade is you can go on a downward motion but just take your time and i'm just gonna make this into a fast motion because yeah you might get bored so here we go we're going to cut it following that 45 degree cut from my our miter saw and then you should have this nice clean cut there you have it you saved your time so much time using that miter saw to cut that straight piece and there you have it you got that nice coped miter end right there so there you have you can either use a rounded file at the edge to clean that up a little bit but right when you butt it in the reason why we're coping actually is that you as you can see if you place it right on more than 90 degrees 45 degrees whatever angle it's still gonna sit flush that's the reason why we cope and as you can see there is barely any gaps right there when you place it right against the next existing ones that you just installed once again we're going to try to find those studs mark it with your masking tape just like we did before and then we're going to nail it right to those spots and then continue on along the run and then right here what i did here was i i cut a 45 degree angle so that we can join that to the next baseboard that we're gonna cut with the opposite 45 degree cut just measure it from end to end and then make your 45 degree cut on the remaining piece here's a little trick right here take your measuring tape and then mark it when using your laser leveler if you have this type of miter saw it helps out a lot with that quickness and then you're just gonna cut it nice and slow on that existing 45 degree that you just made right there and this should sit flush with your with the other 45 degree cut just like what you see there and it should flush nice and perfect boom that is beautiful right there it's nice and flush and then what i do is i actually nail down the first side first and then move along the second side it might shift a little bit but then after you nail it it should sit flush professional right there and then nail the existing now what we're going to do what i'm using here is the caulking uh dap but stretch this one is for indoor and outdoor and also paintable after two hours i love using this stretch not is very nice and only cut an eighth of an hole you don't have to cut a quarter inch don't make it such a big hole here's another trick that i like to do i like to use this wet rag the reason for this is right after you caulk the end right there and you swipe it with your finger to make it nice and flush the remaining caulking that you have on your finger just dab it on the towel and then you should keep going and yeah that'll prevent any other stuff from sticking to your finger and that it's just easy clean up right there it's just a good practice good tip and trick that i'd like to show you now this end right here barely even needs any caulking i don't know why i ended up caulking this end because it's nice and flush already but just you know the ocd kicks in and you want to just you know put a little bit here and there just to close up the tiny gaps if it bothers you which it bothers me so i ended up putting a little bit of caulking right there just so that i can have that nice end then finish caulking the rest of the the pieces just like what you see here again an a a 1 8 inch hole on that caulking and then just dab it onto your rag and on that very end just for safe keeping place a little bit of caulking on there and then dab it with your finger after you have called those hands right there on the inside corner and it should sit nice and flush we're going to continue the full run take your time this is actually the a really fun part of the project and as you can see look at that very nice professional looking and no gaps with that if you follow this simple tips and trick you can have this great results as well and if you look down the line you can see that is is ready for another coat of paint again another tip and trick is that before you install this baseboard have it painted already to save you some time so that you don't have to end up masking everything and painting it once again again if you found this video helpful please hit that big thumbs up press subscribe and notification bell so you can always be in tune on diys how-to videos and product reviews i do videos channel i'll see you next time

Channel: Fix This House

Views: 1,962,091

Keywords: How to install baseboard like a professional with no gaps, DIY Pro Tips and Tricks For Beginners, Baseboard DIY, Crown Moulding, baseboard install, trim install, baseboard miters, coping saw, baseboard corners, baseboard edge, perfect baseboard install, fix this house, caulking gun, coping baseboard edge, miter saw, butt joints, baseboard pro tips, baseboard pro tricks, baseboard how to install, how to install baseboards, install baseboard like a pro, baseboard DIY

Id: U1fbyJ2nEg8

Length: 10min 17sec (617 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 06 2021