How to Install a Complete Bathroom Step-by-Step

now the first thing when you're fitting any bathroom is a bit of planning and if possible I like to work from a drawing a detail drawing with all the dimensions on it because that way sewed in embarrassment when you swing the shower screen around and it hits the basin but if you're an architect or a bathroom designer block up your ears at this point because as a plumber I've seen a few drawings which don't quite work out in reality so what I like to do is transfer all the dimensions from the drawing onto the wall measure them up so there's no mistake and we can verify that everything is as it should be and the other thing that I really like to do these days I first came across these on the continent and I just think there's such a good system manifolds as opposed to doing those t connections and these are configurable you can flip the plates over you can go for hot and cold you can put them for baths to share whatever you like and fit them on the wall here and then you've got individual control of every circuit and what could be better than that that's just hidden underneath the shelf and it's there whenever you want to the other thing is of course you can put all the carcass again isolate the system and then carry on with your second fix [Music] now as we all know there are one or two of these systems around different makes but the thing that I really like about this one from Amba course is that they are a British company they understand British plumbing and they've actually designed this to work with our systems everything you need to do the job is in this kit so that includes having a straight and an angle waist outfit you won't need two of them obviously but whichever one you want is there so as I put this together you'll see a lot of unique features that I think makes it the best one out there so I know quite a number of plumbers who see an instruction booklet and then throw it away that's crazy because there's quite a lot of good information in here and honestly there's some unique features that you won't want to miss on this system I'm gonna show you them in a video but the instruction booklet is there to refer to now the basis of all these wall-hung systems is that you're going to create a pre wall off the existing bathroom wall and that's going to be used for basically for your soil pipe now there was a time when we used to put the loo in and then run the soil pipe longer silent box that in and it just looked all for I mean things have really moved on this is neat it's all hidden so what we're basing it on is 225 millimeters in this case off the wall to the front of the frame and that's going to give us ample room for that soil pipe behind and the thing about the amicus package system if you like is that they even give you two sizes of bolts so that you can cope with whatever the installation is so this is one of the rare occasions where you don't worry about having a few bits left over in the kit because they're giving you things you won't need just because they're giving you all those variations now I know there are people out there who are gonna be saying hang on a minute you mean I'm paying for bits I don't use that's a bit of a waste but actually when you add it up if you look at the cost of some other frames and then you go buying all the extra bits that you need to complete the installation it can add up to a lot this is a competitively priced frame even with all these extra bits in it it really works out because the fective now one of the things people worry about is you got considerable weight onto a frame I mean people aren't getting any lighter for start so you need to make sure it's really secure you've got about 65 percent of the weight going down into the floor so there's some secure fixing is in a floor plate and then that means you've got thirty five percent that's coming back from the wall now in this case we're fitting to a stud wall so what I want to do is use up in a uni strut to spread the load across the wall and actually will pick up the basin frame with it as well now the thing about the unis strut is that the abacus system is made to fit they've actually got the fixings that will fit directly into the unis strut so you're not having to build it up and add on brackets the first thing we need to do is to fix these plates down onto the floor and they do supply the fixings to do that but I know there's a lot of plumbers are a bit nervous about going directly down onto chipboard floors I mean this is moisture resistant and it's fine but if you aren't worried about it if you think the floor won't take it you can put a piece of pry through there as a billion reinforcing the important thing is that it comes up here's the mark this is one meter from the finished floor level so maybe they're putting that prior through by the time you put your tiles on it's the right height but if it's not you've got some adjustment in the feet but the important thing is not to start raising that frame up too high because that's gonna throw the whole installation out keep it at that meter and you'll be fine now a really great feature of this frame is that it's got these lovely large feet which means it got a nice white distribution there I fitted frames where they got tiny silly little feet and you're trying to get that drill in and make a decent fixing honestly it's really difficult well this one you can get down behind it and you can make the fixings very easily and of course you've got these rubber pads on the bottom which stopped the noise transmission down into the building [Music] so I've got a nice parallel line along the front here at two to five where the front of the war's going to be that Center so now I can assemble the brackets for the top of the frame to fix that now these are the wall brackets they've got abs to stop that noise transmission and the great thing about this is that you can use them that way if you're going into a unis truck or if you're going into a bit of timber or something like that you can put them on the side or that way it means you can get the drill in but I would just say that if you do that and you've got a basin frame coming in very close you may find those two brackets touch each other so in that case you would just turn it round but easy enough there's no bulk cutting to be done they simply go in you've got the two different lengths of bolt to choose from and we've got a nice little clip that goes in there we put the bolt through and we wind it in I'm using the long bolt rather than the short one you're just on the cusp between the two but you can see there's plenty of fixing there and when I'm happy I put that in to lock us in place so just another thing they've really thought about here is that whichever way this bracket goes around it's still level with the top of the frame so if you're mounting a shelf you don't have to worry about putting any extra stud work in you can just run the Shelf from there to there and it's supported now I'm gonna just work out where the union struts gonna go in place fix that on the wall and we're ready to go and how clever is this this little clip lock not hold it in place simply clips on there and turns around to hold it now I can just get that groove to line up with where the unit starts going to go and Mark that on the wall [Music] so just show you how this clip fits into the unis truck there's a noob on the back of the ABS bracket and that sits in that groove and to lock it in there we've got a washer that spins around it's gotta be the right way around so that when the nut turns it tightens that washer on so do it up hand tight if you turn it in spin it around and then tighten it [Music] when you're using a floor-mounted pen the height is predetermined you can't change it but with a wall-mounted pen obviously it can change it can go up or down and I've had its coram discussions with customers over whether the pen has been at the right height or not obviously some people are short some people at all that may want it differently but the important thing is that you establish all this before you fix the top work out what your floor buildups gonna be whether you've got underfloor heating or whatever in there and obviously the tile it also helps to have the pan now I know that to the center of the bolt here I'm looking for 320 millimeters off the finished floor level and that spot on there so now I know that I can fix the top if that needed to be altered it can be altered very easily by these bolts on the side here you can move it up or down but the important thing is that you must do that before you fix it finally because when you've got it all child and limiting us it's a very difficult thing support right so that's pretty solid I'm really pleased with that so now I can carry on with my first focus get my car cursing finished and I've got the choice of connectors in the kit these can cost you quite a bit of money if you have to go out and buy an extra but I'm going to use the bent connector on this one [Music] so that's the waste water out to me that's always the hardest part because it can only ever go downhill and we're going to pop these on here to protect the threads while we're doing the tiling those bolts can be adjusted in or out afterwards by the way to suit the pan some people worry about these bolts they wonder whether this is capable of holding all that way well it'll hold 400 kilos and I know people are getting heavier but they're not that heavy and then we've got the debris stop as they're supplied they pop in there and then the tile guide which goes at the top clips in there now we're ready to do the supply now when it comes to filling the supply you've got a choice of either coming in at the back or changing it round to come in at the top and to do that you simply take the plate off and it's great because everything can be accessed through the front and that includes servicing even when it's tiled up you can get to everything so we've got the supply to the fill valve going around on a flexible hose here and that is isolated there now if we want to change this around to go through the top we just take the connection off here and then take the valve out and put it through the top and when you put that back you've got an o-ring to seal it so it doesn't have to have any paste on it or anything like that the o-ring will do the job just make sure that it's turned up but there's no need to get a large wrench or pair of grips on it the o-ring is doing the seal just make sure that that's tightened up to there and that's absolutely fine [Music] and then I'm ready to connect up test the system and then I could begin boarding and tiling you will notice here that there's two options for putting these studs through and this is the hundred eighty mile most of them one hundred and eighty build pansy studs but you do get some that are two thirty so they're getting this important I'm making sure you got your sanitary ware before you finally commit to start tiling because afterwards changing that over is not easy now let's move on to fixing the basin so why would you want to use a basin frame for a warm basin well quite honestly it just makes life easier you can't build up storage in people bolt them to the wall but actually using this frame makes the job a lot better and you get a better job it's a lot more secure it's fully adjustable so that you can change the position for the pipes and the waist and so on the important thing is to get your basin first so you know what Basin you're going to be fitting to this because obviously different sizes different shapes different pedestals they all fit slightly differently but if you've got your Basin on hand there is nothing complicated about this job [Music] in this case because we're fitting this next to a WC frame we're going to use the same bit of unis truck to hold it to the wall and it gives it a really secure fixing but if you didn't want to put this in a wall alongside the WC if you wanted to put it in a cloakroom or something like that you didn't have the room you could move this back as close as a hundred millimeters to the wall so there's plenty of versatility there's adjustment everywhere on this frame we can rise and fall on the waste outlet we can adjust the inlet position so that we can accommodate a chrome trap if we want or a pedestal so there's lots of adjustment the important thing is get your Basin get your pedestal so that you know where you're going with it and then you'll be fine another thing I really like about this which is different to a lot of the continent ones is we've got a good inch and a quarter waste out there which is brilliant we've got an inch and a quarter into here with the bunk which is great so everything is made to work with the British plumbing system and you really will find it a lot different if you've used those continental ones you'll find this is a lot easier [Music] so the good thing is that we've got a nice level fixing we don't need to put in any more stud work or anything at all that's ready to put the shelf on the top if a shelf is what you want to do [Music] so now I've got that frame securely fixed there's still actually adjustment here I know from my finished floor level which is my elements ball plus my tiles plus a bit of adhesive that I want to achieve 850 to the top of the basin so I could measure that up and that gives me 7 9 5 for the bolts here the center of the bolts so all that can be adjusted very easily on the socket set up or down I know that with this particular Basin I need to adjust out so that's a 280 adjustment so I can move that in or out so that I get the correct adjustment centered of course on on there and I can also by doing a trial fit and I would recommend a trial fit at this stage I've just put the basin up check where your trap is gonna go where your waste is going to go because you've got to rise and fall here so we can go up or down with that we can also go in or out or up or down with our pipe connections there so we're ready to go once we'd start that tiling the basin is going to go on there perfectly and everything's going to line up so once we've established exactly where all those are going to go we can start our boarding and our tiling and we know we haven't got to make any adjustments afterwards okay so now I've got the frame in position you can see that everything's adjusted everything's in place to suit that particular basin and I've got the bolts in here the great thing about these bulbs is that unlike some where you've got to cut them to length and worry about with these you can just wind them back and forth so that you've got them at exactly the right length so that's a really good feature and then I'll just pop on a couple of sleeves here just to stop the tile adhesive clogging the threads and also protect your eyes and here we've got some debris stoppers to go in the end so that when we do the boarding and tiling nothing gets in there but also if you put a bit of PTFE tape around the you'll find that you can use them to test the whole system to test your carcass in up before you start palling so we're absolutely sure that everything behind there is leak free and it's ready to go and you know I hear a lot of plumbers moaning about the white plumbing is going these days they talk about plastic fittings and all the rest of it and I must admit I think if they go through a bit of a low spot you know for maybe 20 years or so but I think now there's some real design and innovation coming into plumbing days helping us and if I was a young plumber starting out today I'd be really pleased to be using kit like this so that's the first fix done and now we're ready for boarding and tiling so now let's just look at where we've got to according to our drawing here we've got the frame in position for the base and all nice and secure we've got the WC framing at the correct spacing we've put a bit of stud work in and the great thing is that you can fix through the side of this frame to make that stud work really rigid which I really like that and then as we go along on the drawing we've put a stud in for the over bath shower screen and then centered on the bath itself we've got some 400 Center stud work there which is going to take a shower and our bath plumbing and you're really going to like this next bit because instead of having a mess around when noggins and bits of plywood we've got a really innovative solution one thing I've noticed this that shower heads are getting bigger which means they're also getting heavier and it seems to move that shower manufacturers aren't always thinking of a plumber when it comes to mounting those in a way they're leaving them high and dry but there is a really good solution here and that is this purpose-made showerhead mounting plate which allows you to mount securely onto stud work and it's adjustable we've set it up for 400 centers here that you can adjust it and it gives you a really secure fixing for that showerhead so rather than having the mess around try to put bits of plywood in there and make it up to yourself you might as well use one of these because they're really inexpensive items now let's face it plumbers aren't joiners and why should they be but when it comes to mounting shower valves you have to go and scrounge a bit of plywood from some where or maybe I've even seen people using bits of old pallet to try and make up some kind of secure mounting there's actually a much better way of doing it and that says purpose-made shower valve mounting plate which is a solid really solid bit of plywood and with fully adjustable to suit these studs between 350 400 centers and that gives us a really secure fixing for any manufacturers valve so obviously you set this for the depth of a shower valve and also for your board and tiles and to complement this system we're going to use an over bath spout and we've got a mounting plate for that two here which will allow us to either put in a 3/4 or we can push that down for a half-inch spout but again a really great solution it's their safe drilling the bath or anything else and it looks really integrated and neat [Music] okay make a real good progress now I've got the shelves on all the debris stoppers in place all the Plumbing's done so you might notice that I've set this pipe back against the wall here rather than running it directly up and there's a very good reason for that because what people are looking for nowadays they're looking for those storage areas inside the shell but it can put the shampoos and things and we're going to make use of this service for it it's absolutely ideal for that now when a lot of people do this they make it up at a plywood or plaster board and try and waterproof it not very satisfactory here's a much better ready-made solution which fits directly in made for the job and they're going to that 200 mil void and then we just bring it flush to the front with the ball and the great thing is we don't need to worry about breaking that waterproof structure with anything because we can put it in with our adhesive so I'll just let that set go off a bit but when I do board up I'll put the waterproof adhesive all around the edge there to make a perfect seal that's built in braces and of course you can also put a little LED light in the top here that looks really good and then the whole thing will be totally waterproof ready for tiling and it will mean that no water will seep down the back there and get into the structure it's a perfect ready-made purpose-made system now in the UK and probably the world over we never seem to have enough storage space inside bathrooms and shower rooms and we have got this void here of course which we can make use of which means we don't have to worry about putting a surface mounted cabinet on so we keep everything neat and we've got a really clever solution to this the studs which run up beside either the WC frame or the basin frame can be utilized to fit this preformed module in which can be fixed them all at this stage before we really boarding and then we brought up to it and we've got a little lip here to tile to and that means we've got a ready-made opening but at this stage we don't have to put we can leave that to last knock install the works been done and then just slip that bath cabinet in as our last job it's a really professional solution and as a plumber I would be challenged to do this in timber but using this system it's really easy so now we've tested all the pipe work everything is sound we've tested the waste and everything is in exactly the right place ready for the second fix but obviously before we do that we've got to do the boarding and I always like to ball right down to the floor behind the bath now what are you bald with there was a time when people bordered with this plaster bought but every plumber seen samples of plaster bald instances where the water has got down through the back even with moisture resistant plaster board as soon as you put that screw in where's your moisture resistance gone the best thing to use is this elements insulated waterproof board now this has got several advantages one is that it's got great bond strength because this is cement basis surface it's an ideal surface for putting tiles onto and it can actually support 62 kilos per square meter of tiles which is a hell of a lot but it's also insulated which gives you a better u value but more importantly it cuts down on condensation by warming up the surface area of those tiles if you like it means that you don't have that same level of condensation and of course conversation is the number one destroyer of bathrooms it really is a major problem cut out the condensation and the bathroom will look better for longer it's easy to use is easy to cut it's easy to fix and of course it's incredibly lightweight [Music] okay so that's the last bit of the called fixed you can see that I've used these plate washers here have 300 centers on the studs and they're just recessed in slightly into the surface so that we can tile straight over without any of obstructions and when you come to cutting round here I know it's tempting you use the angle grinder and put yourself a diamond but it's much better if you just do it nice and neat hole there and that way you can make sure you've got a good surface to tile onto and you've got plenty of support for that wall hung WC [Music] so I had a good days first fix I'm really happy with that and just before I going to fit the bath I just want to reiterate this point because this is so important I've seen it so many times where people have had to make alterations after the tile has been in to avoid this just check everything if you got your basin check your centers are right check that your outlets are right here and that that if you're using a semi ped that that will go inside the semi ped and then we put our debris Stoppers on and we also sleeve over the studs to make sure they can't get filled up with adhesive similarly when we come to the loo we've got the pan so we know we've got the center's right for that we know the heights right we've got debri stoppers in there again to stop it getting filled up with tile adhesive so everything is ready to go there now when we come over to the shower valve it's very important that you set that at the right depth to allow for both the board and for the tiles and a bit of adhesive of course you've got a little bit of adjustment there the plate can move backwards or forwards so so long as you get that just there just right and also when you come to the bath spout and the shower outlet make sure that you've got those and that you can check for that tile thickness so that you're not ending up in that situation where you're having to make alterations after the tile is done is a bit now I just want to make a quick point about shower valves and about sealing around them obviously when you put the valve in there's a hole there and when you come to cover it use a sealing plate of some kind over the top of the tiles and often these days that silicone on to seal it but obviously that can break down over the years you can get movement and if you do you can find that water seeping down you've got that big void there so what abacus have done is come up with this neoprene gasket that fits over the valve this is under the tiling and that's sealed up with pro seal before the tilings done so that if any water seep down behind that cover plate we've got our second barrier to stop any water seeping into the structure itself that makes an enormous difference because again is this belt and braces approach that make sure there no point in the future are you ever gonna get any problem with water ingress and similarly on the bath spell we've got another neoprene gasket around there and even on the showerhead we put one now you might think why do you want to put one on the showerhead the water is falling down but you do get situations where there's a loose joint and the water tracks back along the arm of the shower head down into the structure so by pulling a neoprene gasket on there as well we make sure that we're never going to get any problems from any of those areas obviously this is subject to a great deal of water over many years so we want to make absolutely sure it's a hundred percent waterproof [Music] now here's one of my pet subjects fitting baths I've been to so many over the years that have been fitted incorrectly and they've moved and allowed water to seep down the back and we all know what that leads to so it's very important at this stage that we get it fitted properly and solidly the first thing obviously is that we need to make sure that it's level and not just level along one plane but obviously level along two planes now that's important for a number of reasons one is that the bath is built with this slight falling from the edge into the bath so that any water that collects on the edge will go back into the bath and if you don't get it level what you sometimes find is you get water pooling around the edge of the shower screen and leaking out there so that's essential that you do that and the next thing I do is to make sure that I've got a good solid timber barrier behind that long edge at the back layer to stop any movement and if you do that when you come to put your sealing tape in and your silicone seal you make sure there's no movement there no stretch on the silicone joint then we've got this seal this no more leak seal that goes all the way around the edge of the bath to give us that Belton brace is that second seal if you like around the back edge so we're going to make sure that no water can ever leak down the back [Music] now when it comes to choosing a path you can of course fit a standard abacus acrylic bar through all high quality baths nothing wrong with that but because this bath is over a shell people tend to move around in it and I think that that requires something a little bit more and I intend to try and persuade the customer to use this armor plus bath which has got a gel coating way on the outside starts to give it a kind of rigidity that you get in a car style bath but without the weight and you'll also notice that there's no overflow now the reason for this is that on some jobs you're required to reduce the capacity of the bath of the water saving and so on so they allow you to fit the overflow position the overflow where you need it now if you look at this this is another innovation from that because a template so you don't have to be Archimedes you don't have to work out the capacity of the bath it's already written on there and you just drill the hole for calling to where you need that capacity to be now just the general point about fitting baths is that I like to fit them on bearers I know a lot of people don't bother now they say that the chipboard is now water resistant and you don't really need to worry about the feet dropping through the floor but I also think that when you fit the bearers it also means you can shorten the legs slightly it becomes more rigid and you can also screw the feet directly to the bearers and slide it into position so that's just my preference I think it makes for a better job [Music] so what I like to do at this stage is to just toss screw these bearers to the floor but of course you could be worried about there being cables or pipes below and if you're not a hundred percent sure that you're not going to hit anything the best thing to do is use a bit of quality adhesive stick those barriers down these days that adhesive is so good that there's plenty do enough so I'm going to fit the Baths to the wall now and bad old days we used to use brackets but now I just use this MD adhesive which is really good this waterproof and quite honestly nice a thin bead along the back and once you put that and it goes off that's gonna go nowhere now at this stage what most people would do is to tile down to the edge of the bath and then run a bead of silicone along there to stop any water ingress and when you dealing with a shower you're dealing with a lot of water over a long period of time and very often it doesn't take long for that joint to break down and for water to start seeping in down the back of the bath I've seen it so many times and as this video is all about showing you better ways of doing something here's a product that will solve that problem once and for all it's called no more leaks kit and it's from abacus in the kit you've got the waterproof tape you've got two preformed corners and you've got the pro seal for sticking out to the wall to make a flexible waterproof joint and even a brush for applying it and this comes with a 15-year guarantee they're that confident [Music] at this point it's really important that you protect the bath because Tyler drops a tile into the bath chips it that can all kinds of mishaps gonna happen we all know that so make sure you protect it that way when it comes to the end you're not even for any nasty surprises so what I do is I tape along the edge with a masking tape put a sheet of protech on there tape that down and leave it there until everything else has been done [Music] so now we've come to the bit where we fit the bath panel years ago used to fit plastic bar panels I spent many hours of my life struggling with those things I'm really glad to see and going out the style they're dirt traps and these days people want something a lot clean a lot more substantial and the thing to do is to have a tiled bath panel now that used to mean that you've got a joiner to make up a bit of plywood but that's not a great surface the tile onto in the end the humidity will move it the joints will crack the grout will fall out so a much better solution is this abacus Elements bath panel which is made of exactly the same material as the elements board but thicker it's got adjustable feet and it makes the perfect surface for tiling onto rather than using a timber batten along the floor you can actually use this bath panel mounting kit which is moisture stable it's a lot easier to fit and cut [Music] so now we're almost ready to do the tiling but I want to overboard this floor because you don't want to tile two chipboard or anything like that now a lot of people would just put nine mil ply down but the problem with doing it with nine mil ply is it's not a great surface for tiling onto the adhesions not good and it tends to follow the undulations in the floor a better way of doing it is to use this timber aluminum elements board and that means that we could just bed that down on this KST of these if we can take out any undulations we could even build up by 50 millimetres to take a dip out for floor and it gives much better adhesion to the tiles it's stable it won't lift and also it's got good insulating properties so if you're using the under tile heating it's going to give a much faster warm up to the tiles that heats going to come up rather than going down so it's a win-win all the way around so the first thing is to prime the wood floor before you put the adhesive down [Music] now the adhesive has gone off it normally takes three or four hours but it's gone off a bit faster today because it's quite warm and now I can mechanically fix it so just like the walls I'm fixing a 300 millimeter sensors or there abouts and obviously fixing down the edges and all the corners so now I've got the floor board it through I just want to go around and tape all the joints and especially the ones in the critical areas where we're in the shower we need to be using this neoprene totally waterproof flexible tape now people talk about waterproof plastic board and all those kind of things all very well until you put a hole in it or a joint and then that's a path for the moisture to get through so this way we make sure that every single area where it would be possible for any moisture to get through if the grout broke down and there was water getting in we make sure they're all sealed off for the other areas where we don't need to worry about this sort of critical moisture ingress we can use this alkali resistant scrim tape which is a standard sort of scrim tape that you might see plastering and we put that over all the other joints so obviously we don't want to point load this board until it's been tiled over so I've put a piece of bald down for this hop up to take my great way [Music] so now you can see that the first fix is really complete now and we've got all this area in the wet area around the shower covered with a neoprene tape that's totally waterproof and this area is covered with the scrim and also the floor so all this investment all this time that we've spent getting this absolutely right it's going to make the second fix an absolute breeze and the great thing is we've got bring any of that stuff in no none of a sanitary ware none of the delicate things have got to come into this room until the tile is completely finished now I'm not a tire I wouldn't pretend to be one but I've had to do a bit in my time and one thing I have learned is that setting out is critical if you set out right from the start you save yourself a lot of trouble with silly little cuts and also the whole look of the room is improved if it looks like it was planned that way so we've centered the tiles on the flush panel here to work both ways from there and also from the top of the bath so hopefully we've avoided any silly little cuts and it should make the job a lot faster and the finished job look a lot better so now it's over to the Tyler [Music] you know every time I do a bathroom it seems to me the tiles are getting bigger these are the porcelain marble ones from abacus a large-format tile but the great thing is they make a quick and easy job of tiling so now I'm ready to do the second fix and I'm going to start over with the bath we've got the spout we've got the shower mixer and we got the showerhead to go in here [Music] so now I'm fitting the basin and the reason that I like using this Basin frame as opposed to sticking a bit of wooden stud work up there it's because it gives you all the adjustability gives you a really solid fixing I mean if you take for instance these bass and bolts here we're not talking about having to cut the bolt off we can adjust that bolt with the screwdriver in or out to exactly where we want it so that gives you that adjustability and then even when you get down to the feed pipes the supply abacus give you in the kit a couple of isolating valves and they're just any old isolate nice isolating valve but they've got a really seal on there when I first saw this I didn't quite believe this but it actually works really well and then we've got a nuttin on live for 10 mil on there but if we don't want to use the 10 mil if we're going to go on with a 3/8 thread we've got the 3/8 thread but if we want to go on to a 1/2 inch tail we've got a Bush here which obviously put PTFE rent and you can push up so you've got isolating valves in there in the kit you're not chasing around looking for bits and pieces and that to me is the thing that really makes your day a lot easier [Music] so I've almost finished connecting this Basin up I just want to show you a couple of things about how we finish it underneath we could use a semi pedestal like this and if you use this abacus one it's got these really clever cable ties system so you hang that on to the basin bolts and you thread the cable tie through there and then you pull them up tight and you can even release it if you need to but you even get a spare cable tied with that but we're not going to use that system here what we're gonna do is go to something that's also very popular this is really stylish school hair trap and it's fully adjustable so we can adjust it for height and if you're going on to a basin frame like this you need the 35 mil end now a lot of people get you an adapter to do this but they've actually squeezed this pipe out so that you can go on to 35 mil but if you're not using a basin waste if you want to go into a McAlpine trap or whatever you can go into 32 mil so the 32 Emmure will go there and depending on which way you're going it depends on which end you cut that pipe from so obviously if you're going 32 and will cut that end off if you're going on the other end cut that end off so it's a versatile system it allows you to get onto any basin and of course you've got a nice long length as well which is very important and a lot because sometimes you finish up a little bit short on these crack pipes which is a nuisance [Music] so this is really all heavy-duty brass even when it comes to this cover plate here sometimes I was a chrome Preston or whatever a solid brass here so for me a really quality for the kid [Music] so now we come to fitting the wall-hung pan and this is something that worries a lot of older plumbers my generation if you like because they worry about them falling off the wall well if I tell you this is tested to 400 kilos I think that covers most people and like all abaca sanitary ware this is made for them by a leading German brand so the quality is absolutely guaranteed you're not going to get much better than this but of course whichever type of pan you're fitting whatever make this WC frame will fit is fully adjustable so you're okay and of course they fit in a variety of different ways this particular one from abacus has got this innovative side fixing on the bolt which is really discreet and it requires you to set the bolt out 35 millimeters from the tiled surface and then wine this on so the idea is that if we set this 14 millimeters off the tiled surface wine that in and have that indent on the outside on both bolts when the grub screw goes in it's kind of tapered there and as you tighten up it pulls that pen really snugly against the walls quite clever little idea so a little explanation as to how cut this soil pipe in this flush pipe what I like to do is put the both in position snugly home where they're gonna go [Music] and when I've done that I mark up on the back and that gives me the position of the wall so with both of those marked I can then take out the debris Stoppers put the pipe in and mark up where the wall is on the pipe now we're not take that mark and I take the other mark that I've made on the pipe and the distance between those two marks is the amount I have to cut off the end of the pipe but with this one cut a couple more we're all off just to allow me to push that pipe in without it hitting the end stock because there's an end stop there and if you push it in too far if you cut that just a little bit too long you run the danger of knocking the end stop on and pushing the pipe in too far into the into the flush pipe so just that's it just cut it there just two or three mil short and you'll be fine so same idea with a pen connector we put it in we're not trying to guess we mark up the position and that way we make sure that we're completely accurate I can't emphasize enough how important it is to cut these accurately because you don't want any trouble behind the pages I want any leaks and if you do it this way and you're careful about cutting measuring and cutting you'll make sure that it is perfect [Music] so the great thing is that as you wind these in it pause the pan back against the wall and some people worry and they're a little bit hesitant to wine that in but you've got to make sure that's firmly against your tiling so long as you're tiling is perfectly supported behind and that's about it tell you what that's solid [Music] so now we get to fit the flush panel and in the past I've had a bit of trouble this because one of the critical things is getting these rods to the right length so they operate freely but with these ones instead of having to cut them you just simply turn them in get them to running and click and turn so it's a great system it saves you cutting and being plastic they don't rust up the whole of this can be serviced we got the float valve the flush and also we've got a little isolating valve here so everything can be serviced from within this front panel so there's a choice of different flush panels here this one I'm going to be using is a rectangular 2 button but there are many others to choose from so whatever your customer wants I'm sure that we want to sue them so just one thing about these flushing systems is that they're actually all WRAS approved and they come preset for the six and three liter flush but you can reduce them if you need to by adjusting it [Music] so now we're getting very close to payday and I've never really seen the point of all those unboxing videos that you get on YouTube but in this case I'm going to show you how to take the box off this because it is important some people get this wrong now this is the cabinet and the cabinet's heavy so what we need to do and remove the box [Music] so this is a when's recess cabinet it comes in six different colors and if you want the door to open the other way all you got to do is flip it through 180 degrees and the great thing is that because it's put into this frame it means that it's centered absolutely dead center on that WC [Music] now I'm going to fit this shelf has been cut to size and you can see that it fits on these brackets behind there's no need for any further support and of course that does give us access to that manifold below when we need it [Music] you know one of the things that I really like about this bathroom is it is built for easy serviceability I've got isolating valves under the basin I've got the manifold hidden under this shelf so that each component could be isolated very easily the WC can be serviced entirely from behind that flush panel which makes it even easier than a close-coupled WC and even the seat can be unclipped for easy cleaning now what I have found in the past is that some people overdo it with the silicon on share screens they seal up the inside you should never do that because what happens ed is the profile can start filling up the water so just run a tiny bead of silicone along the outside and you'll be fine [Music] [Music] you know I'll be fitting bathrooms for many years and over that time I've seen lots and lots of changes but all too often those changes are cosmetic they're just skin deep even after six months sometimes I've gone back to a bathroom I can already see the signs of deterioration but that mold is starting to build up but with this bathroom as you can see because we've built in that build quality all the way along we've got insulated board in there which will cut down on that conversation and mold we've made sure there's never gonna be any leaks down the back of the shower area we've built in quality of every single stage of the job and so I can be sure that this bathroom is built to last [Music] you

Channel: Skill Builder

Views: 455,450

Rating: 4.8302288 out of 5

Keywords: How to Install a Complete Bathroom, how to fit a bathroom suite, complete bathroom suite, how to install a bathroom, abacus bathrooms, wc frame concealed cistern, wc frames and flush plates, bathroom design, hidden flush tank, shower tray, concealed toilet cistern, concealed wc frame, concealed cistern fitting, wall hung wc with flush tank, how to, wc fixing frame, wc hanging frame, bathroom remodel, bathroom makeover, bathroom fitting design, wall hung wc and frame

Id: vNYNigge1C0

Length: 57min 58sec (3478 seconds)

Published: Sat May 19 2018