4 Types of Shower Valve Assembly Installations

so in this video we are going to show you four different ways that you can do your own rough-in shower plumbing now stay tuned because it doesn't matter what your skill level is how comfortable you are with a torch or how much money you have to invest in your tools we've got a system that we think is going to work for you so as long as i've been in the renovation business i have been running into diy plumbing this is really kind of a lot of fun for me one of the reasons we do this channel is to help people do things not necessarily perfect but better than they're doing it now so we're going to show you four different ways that you can do your own rough and plumbing all right and we're going to go back old school we're going to start with copper copper supply lines it's a brass valve all copper extensions and we're going to show you how to solder it and get a really good fit the next video we're going to show you is again copper supply lines but we're going to do a little soldering and we're going to convert that copper to pex and then we're going to run that pex into the shower valve and that's completely plastic after that we'll show you the new modern crimpers out there they're really cost effective and you'll love doing plumbing with that all right so the next video we're going to show is all pex supply line this is a newer build and it's all pecks in the house currently so we're going to show you how to just tie into that and run a brand new valve system off that and then finally we're going to show you a situation where we convert it from copper to pex and this system is for people who really don't have a lot of tools in their toolbox and you can convert with a fitting called a shark bite you got to make sure you got access to it to keep an eye on it over the years in case you have a drip but stay tuned we're going to show you all these techniques let you decide which one is right for you so today's video is all about soldering in a brand new plumbing valve and the reason we're soldering is because the original valve is all copper and solder joint and so we run out and we bought a valve that matches the same kind of installation so we don't have to do any pipe cutting just got to clean all the fittings up and put it back together with a brand new shower valve this is the way to do it nice and simple [Music] so the secret i mean the big secret to doing copper valve installation from an existing valve or this right here anyone who doesn't take time to read the instructions on a product nowadays you're just setting yourself up for failure guys every one of these products that comes out has new design elements different requirements for how deep goes in the wall different techniques for building and removing parts every manufacturer is a little different and every manufacturer is now developing more and more and more complex unique scenarios because they're more concerned with the design style than the function it seems nowadays so you have to be really careful like for instance this one this plate gets put on the wall and then you attach this handle to the cartridge body and you tighten it up real tight and you can create this compression fitting between the handle and the plate and and the valve on the other side of the wall and then the shower functions from here if you don't get the depth set on this properly you're not going to have contact with the wall or you won't be able to your hand will be sticking out and it'll look like junk or you won't get proper contact with the wall so do your measurements take great care here because this is almost a little bit too tricky it's a little ridiculous now because we've got the water off and it's been draining for quite some time that everything will be nice and dry so we're going to start off i checked the tub spout the connection for the tub spout with this particular kit requires a longer stem on the copper so i'm going to put in a longer piece of pipe for now after i'm done on my tile work i'll measure back and cut it later so for today i want to make sure that i get this one removed first and that's what we're going to start with so here we go just got to add some heat until the solder starts to bubble up try not to burn the wood in the wall i'm just gripping it with my pliers and giving it a bit of a twist as soon as i see a solder start to melt out of that little spot there i'll be good to go on baby here we go just about and there we go okay the reason you want to use pliers for this situation is because it gets very hot now inside that elbow fitting it is beautiful it looks like a solid silver but it's nicely coated the weld there was done really well all right so i've got a piece of copper that's just sitting in my my plumbing kit just for such an occasion gonna give it a good fresh scratch make sure you got some good copper color and then put on some flex paste on this bad boy now may or may not go in probably not exactly so what we're going to do is we're going to heat that joint up again when that slides in then we're going to add a little bit of fresh solder done [Music] nice and quick take our piece and we're just going to wipe that in okay there we go make sure it's nice and square to the wall the whole joint now is all heated up so we'll just let all that seal up nice and square beautiful now that that's done it's time to take apart the old valve the hot and the cold lines okay so now we're gonna take the hot and the cold out again we're just going to heat this up till we see the solder start to drip off and then i'm just going to hit the elbow hopefully all of this connection will stay intact just waiting for the drip and there it is not quite yet got to heat the backside the brass is very thick and it takes a long time to heat up so when it finally does there we go that one's released now this side okay so now we're going to heat up this body and we'll pull the bottom off it's not attached anymore so we'll separate this okay now that one's gone so i've got the water of the house off but you always have a reservoir handy all right now now we can hold on to that beautiful so now we're going to take the rest of the valve body off the shower headline which is still attached to the ceiling there or up at the top of the wall so i can actually grab the valve body with my pliers and i can twist it or i can just wiggle it here we go see this little wiggle up and down and we're sliding up there we go okay it's like being a blacksmith in the 1400s so now we're going to put this valve body in we're going to start with the hot and the cold and the shower all at the same time basically so we want to do is we want to just prep all of the ports on this valve body nice and simple now when it came together it came together in a certain way and it usually has markings on it it'll say hot and cold hmc this one just has arrows that means intake and on this part it marked cold so make sure you get it going the right way i don't know if it'd make a great big difference i mean it looks like a pretty mirror image not going to take any chances i didn't engineer it so i don't want to reinvent the wheel all right now that part is done so the other thing we want to do is we want to get flux inside all of these you'll see that these fittings are designed for a half inch copper or you can put compression fittings on whenever it's possible to solder or to crimp versus using compression fittings i prefer to do it i've had really bad success service calls and compression fittings over the years you just never seem to get that thing on tight enough it always wants to drip in the wall cavity after everything's all finished drivers are bloody crazy all right now this is most likely a little warm all right we just want to give it a little bit of love with the sandcloth because we don't want to be fighting too hard putting this valve on holding in place stick all right the idea is is i'm gonna heat up this one and i'm gonna stick this up here solder that on and then we're gonna let it cool for just a minute and then we're gonna put the hot and the cold in so first you want to heat the old pipe up the old solder connection not too much you don't want to burn it all now you want to heat the brass okay not the solder the brass will get hot it'll in turn melt the solder on the copper above it and then turn will heat the copper and so when this brass is hot enough and it'll there you go you see if the son of sucker right on now we just want to get it squared off with the wall a little bit of paste [Applause] here we go now i'm pretty confident that the solder that was on the existing pipe is now sealed inside my brass ring okay i put that on there more like a weld just in case it's still hot i wanted to be able to hold its weight here now now we're going to hold this now take this off set that aside for now now you'll see that the original hot and cold are not in line with the new valve different manufacturer right so we have a different issue going on and that is fine what we're going to do is just take my drill and we're going to disengage it's warm but it's not too hot we'll go with one screw at the top for now now we're going to line this up we're going to do is we're going to add heat to the brass now okay and then force pop these two hot and cold lines in and when all the silver disappears then we know we're ready to go i do want to do make sure that the copper around the outside of that weld is nice and clean so i can just force the issue with some new solder joint to the brass in the event that the other pipe wasn't in as far as this may go this time all right so let's add some heat and we'll suck that all together here we go and then this side okay lovely [Music] okay now we're going to put a little flex paste on here and then we're going to add a little bit of fresh soldering we want to be patient here because we want to make sure that the copper is heated up as well as the brass so we're waiting for the solder on the existing copper pipe to start to sweat and melt up and then we'll add a fresh bead remember keep the heat on the brass cartridge so that because it's thicker it takes longer to heat up and you'll know it'll be hot enough to receive this weld as soon as the copper starts to sweat here there we go [Music] okay same on the other side and this is just to make sure that there's enough solder material inside that joint to seal it up after we've removed and sanded it from the last joint all right there that's step two okay so now we're we have the roughing three quarters of the way we want to set up our center line before we start attaching things to the wall so we're going to come down here and measure the the screw head on our overflow it's 14 and 5 8. we're going to see yeah they were off center okay and the original instruction was off center that was awesome and not just a little bit it was off a full half an inch now that's not a lot if you're using subway tile but if your grout line is anywhere near these center line of these fixtures one glance you can say oh that sounded square that's just ridiculous brilliant i'm going to do this with our pliers [Music] okay again we're gonna heat up the valve body and slide this up there we are now we want to square this off now i'm just going by eye you only have a few seconds here until the solder starts to really set up so oh all right okay so now we want to take a little bit of flex around this joint as well and just throw a little fresh solder up there and make everybody happy i'm going to hold this up with my knees it doesn't slide out of so you don't want to fall down here hold it in place and then use the solder and then now it's cooking well if at first you don't succeed try to try again [Music] and that was just to square it off i lost my alignment okay so check our measurement here as well 14 and 5 8 perfect now the wood that i have installed for this valve is too short so what i'm going to do is i'm going to prop this up this way a couple pieces of scrap from the truck and then i'm going to put that to there and that'll be set the perfect depth behind the shower okay so now that our valve body is all cooled down we're going to go and install this now just looking for my cold marker which goes on my right side we'll line this up there we go these are all machine threaded when you're working with machine threads just put it on reverse really easy when you start and you'll feel it catch you just set right in place [Music] that way you can avoid ever having a strip on you and then going back to the store and starting all over again [Music] and when i tighten that valve on to the tile see how it can be moved around it'll tighten right in the right spot there for me i'm just loving this time for the blue thing this is my little half inch pipe thread with a gasket when i'm doing my pressure test just in case right you don't want to come down on your head it's one thing if the tub fills up with water it's another thing that the shower starts spewing all over the room okay so let's go get the water turned on and then we'll see if i know how to solder let's pressurize this bad boy okay we're good yeah nice bear it up okay we're all done we did a water test everything's pressurized no leaks hoorah if you like this kind of content give us a thumbs up it's a little old school but old school is still reliable all right and if you have any questions about soldering techniques and products and where to buy them and all that kind of stuff the tools we use put in the comments section below we'll see you again next time don't forget to check us out on instagram in this video we're going to show you how to renovate your shower plumbing from copper to pex so if you're like most people you're in a home that's got a bathroom that needs to be renovated and you've got it all ripped apart and then you run into this copper plumbing now you may not be the best plumber in the world but if you can learn how to make one simple solder joint you can convert from copper to using pex and then you can just use a crimper to install all your plumbing through the rest of the shower this will enable any average homeowner to be able to add jets and range showers and all kinds of fun features you can even run your plumbing around the nooks that you want to build on your walls but you need a couple of simple tricks and here they are first you're going to need a copper cutting tube this is really simple little tool pick it up with a hardware store about 15 bucks and copper is a really soft metal actually i'm going to go a little bit lower so when i'm torching i'm well away from the wood copper is a really soft metal you can actually just tighten that tube on look at this and it starts cutting right through and every time you make a turn around the pipe you just turn it up a little bit more they come in different sizes so if you're in an unrestricted area you can get one with a big handle it makes a little bit easier but in this environment just a quarter turn and then just keep on running it'll take about six or seven times around and then you'll be able to cut right through the pipe now if you're good with the torch here we go we just broke through you could always just heat up this joint and pop both of these at the same time a lot of people might find that a little tricky so this just kind of eliminates all of those problems there we go and tighten that on and just work it around you'll notice also that this control area is really low back in the day this used to be standard to have it really low because the tub was used a lot more than the shower nowadays people are using the shower almost exclusively and the times that this functions the tub is very rare and so we're putting them up a lot higher so it's a little more convenient for while you're having shower use there we go so now we're completely clear all we have to do now is identify how they've got this mounted on looks like a couple of nails a couple of nails this is a fancy little stiletto tool it's like a little mini hammer but it does so many wonderful little things for those hard to reach places now in this situation we're not going to try to save any of this plumbing so you can be as aggressive as you like because we have drained the water there we go and then we'll just lift this up to loosen the nails and pry that right off there we are now important don't throw this away you're most likely going to want to save this copper to add for your tub spout and that is a good piece of copper so no sense thrown in the garbage okay so we got our hot air cooled traditionally hot's on the left if it's not you're going to be in for a surprise um what i'm going to show you here is how to clean this how to torch it and then how to convert to pex or just put a brass cap on and the reason you're going to learn both of these options is if you have options it might save you a trick to run into the store now this is sand cloth and it's funny because the last time we did a copper to pex video i used sand cloth i called it sand cloth says sandcloth on the box and people were giving me different uh opinions about [Music] why i was calling it sand cloth in the video in the comments section below and uh it's cause that's what it's called on the box so that's what i call it if you have a different training for it that's fine the goal here is to get it nice and clean you can't torch on dirt you have to make sure that your coffer is copper in color before you try to torch anything and you want to do about an inch and a half don't try to just get cheap and clean around the top because all it takes is one missed spot and you're going to have a leak so here we are here is the fitting that we're going to use to convert from copper to picks now this is plumbing language we talk male and female things that get receiving and things that go inside right it's the way it works this is the male version this is the female version female version goes over top of the copper okay which is the male version is the same size as the copper and so this would be convenient if you're on a joint or using a coupling just thought i'd throw that out there for you to see but what we're using is the female version and because the part of the plumbing we're doing right now is kind of mid-demo we're just getting this all capped off so we can pull the tub out i could also use just a regular plumbing cap and i can cap my plumbing that way too okay but since we're going to be converting to pecks for the long haul what i'm going to do to save myself time for tomorrow so i'm just going to put six inches of pex on there put on a test cap which is one of these little plastic caps here and that'll be good for tonight and then tomorrow we can just cut and add the fittings when we're ready to run the plumbing now basically this comes already cleaned comes from the factory it's brass doesn't really tarnish but what i like to do is scratch it up just a little bit so that i have somewhere for the solder to sit into okay so when i'm doing my torching if you haven't done torching before what i'm looking to do is i'm going to use this solder there we go you heat up the joint where you want the solder to go to which is up here and you add the solder from the bottom all right so what you want to do is create a nice clean scratched up environment so the solder has somewhere to sit and you're basically sealing it for the whole width of the joint all right so you end up sealing it about 50 times more than is necessary and that is the goal to get such a good clean joint that there's no risk of it ever leaking and then you can sleep at night you'll see when the fitting is hot enough the solder will melt on the opposite side of the pipe at the lowest part and now you know when it's going in area pushed in and it dripped out i know that whole thing is full of solder now i'm adding the heat to the top left i'm adding solder for the bottom right the heat goes up so when it gets hot enough to melt solder on the bottom right i know it's been sucked because i added the flux and there we go it's been sucked all the way to the top and that's it that soldering job is done so i just ran into the car and got my hex cutting tool so i'm out of breath it's too cold to be staying around a t-shirt i wanted to show you this two different fittings you use to cap the end of the line these are called test caps they're made of plastic and this is the brass cap that's if you're going to have a line and it's going to end and you want to crimp that and not ever think about it again for the rest of your life now using that today we will be using these and they're wonderful you just slide them on okay get a couple of rings slide those on and crimp it and that's it so we're going to just stick this on the line and then crimp it all up okay now we torched that only two minutes ago but i'm not concerned about if it's too hot this pex handles a lot of heat the way you do this is you would put this test cap on and it has a little stub on it and you bring your ring right up to the the end here and that tells you that you're in the right place line on your crimper and done okay so you want your ring about a quarter inch off the end of the pipe snug to the brass fitting boom and this might seem a little bit tedious and frustrating but it is a lot quicker and a lot more flexible than doing soldering all right so we are back here now to finish our conversion from copper effects and install our shower valve this is the typical shower tub system it has hot and cold shut offs as well as it has integrated pex adapters so that you can run pex directly to this and the tub line comes with a three quarter inch pex adapter which solves all of the problems we've been in this industry going to pecks and having dripping from the shower head when you do pecs to your tub so what we need to do here is really simple it's just a matter of doing any of our our copper work first we can let everything cool down and then we can just crimp everything together so these systems come the tap just threads off like this just be careful this is all machined brass and it is sharp you may want to wear gloves for this case this is just the test cap with the ring on it and there we go that's our valve so i'm going to suggest since i'm going to go with the copper option for the bottom i'm going to suggest that you take out the stops for the hot and the cold just pinch them together and slide that out okay and just give it a tug there we go it's all one piece now the instructions that come with this do not tell you that it's required however experience says when you're using a soldering wet tool if you have anything on that fixture that's made of rubber you're probably best to get rid of it there we go and that is why we put the drain cover on [Laughter] there we are so now there's nothing left here but solid brass now as far as the height that you install your valve at it's completely optional and consulting with this particular client she has grandchildren that she uses to bathe in this tub so she needs to be able to access the water while she's bent over at the tub so it's not as low as traditional for a tub but it's high enough that you can reach it without having to bend over while you're having a shower so it's kind of the best of both worlds here so before we get started don't forget rule number one turn off the water drain the line just because you turn it off doesn't mean you're not going to have a mess the lines are pressurized so always drain the line first so this valve is going to go on our center line which is about here if you're in a situation where you have more stud space pex is awesome they have these wonderful little holders and you can actually bend it around to go to a 90 without using a crimp okay in our situation here though we're we don't have enough room to turn that so i'm going to have to use an elbow and since i'm using an elbow on the hotline there's no sense using this on the cold because i'm only going to be able to have as much pressure as on the hot side anyway in a shower so the easiest way to hook up your plumbing is to use a laser level get your laser level on the center line and then just mark all of your lumber where the line is okay all the way up to the shower head and that's it now there's no more measuring involved done got to own a laser level if you run away at home next thing is to rough in just to measure all your components we're going to temporarily screw this to the wall good to know in this system the there's two holes for screwing it and two holes for attaching the plate the ones that you screw to the wall with this manufacturer don't have any threading in them so they're easy to identify i know some companies thread all the holes regardless there's always drives you crazy so we will put that there and now for this you're going to need a half inch coupling for the tub i like to use one of these bad boys because i can attach it to the wall it's a 90 degree able that comes with the mount on it now what you measure is you measure the gap and then add one inch so you get a half inch for each fitting so we're gonna go seven so i need to cut an eight inch piece of pipe and measure my eight inch with my thumb of course this is a rough cement if you're at all concerned you can just take off a little bit for good luck okay have that there for now and you also want to cut at the same time about a five inch extension the tub spout now the particular tub spout fixture that we have is a slip-on tub spout where the attachment happens near the wall you really only need about two inches out of the wall i just like to go a little overboard so that i'm guaranteed i'm not going to have any soldering on the pipe where i'm trying to slide it over the top fixture later because we're dealing with copper and we're dealing with our hands we're going to have oil on the line we just make sure we clean up the copper all the ends give them a good scratch with the sand cloth [Music] of course use the fitting brush inside all of the fittings give them all a good scratch including here and you want to scratch up the valve as well before we continue we just want to get all of our torch products sitting here handy ready to roll one of the best ways to do your soldering is to have your fixture mounted somewhere so that you don't have to be holding on to something that's going to get right on i like to wear my safety glasses when i'm touching because when i get my fixture soldered i like to use the brush with the flux and just give it a quick wipe it guarantees a good seal and you may get something flashing in your face so that takes care of that now before we solder we want to assemble all right so we want to get flux inside all of our fixtures [Music] all right so i put this together temporarily for now i've got a screw in this elbow so that while i'm heating things up in the in the side and the sorry the um the flux goes kind of very liquid a lot of times these fittings will fall off and i don't want all the stuff falling in behind the tub so this will just anchor it all and keep it all in place until i'm done i've thrown a screw here to get my water line bent out of the way to keep it away from the heat so now we're ready to do this so [Applause] i know it looks a little archaic but the fact is we're not welding we're soldering so you know in a perfect world it's nice to have a nice little pretty joint but my goal is to get the solder not at the joint is to get it inside of the fitting where we scratched it up now i've got a scratch fitting and a scratch pipe and solder stuck in all those little grooves that's what the flex does it's like a magnet and it pulls all the solder into the inside of the joint where the heat is so you heat where you want the solder to go and then when it's hot enough to melt it it sucks it in so although maybe a couple of points here you might see what you think is a pinhole i'll guarantee you that is water tight and before we close up the wall we will guarantee that it's watertight and do a pressure test so we're going to be okay real quick note don't worry if you get any of this solder on your acrylic they do not bond together and it will just wipe right off okay now because we have turned off the water right yeah and drain the lines i'm confident because i'm looking over the bathroom tap and it's open and nothing's coming out yeah all right yay all right so what we're going to do is we're just going to measure how where we want to be here with the water line with our thumb just a little bit below this again is eyeballing and it might be easier if the blade is facing you sit in the cradle and this is you want to cut while you turn that's how you cut it straight without collapsing the pipe if you just cut it straight on you're going to crush the pipe out of shape like that and then putting on the fittings is real pain in the butt so always add a ring as you go okay and it's not going to stay where you want it to but that's okay we also need to add enough to go from here to here i love the fact that this pex is covered in numbers because it makes it really easy to measure okay again we can put the rings on ahead of time we're gonna have two joints all right now here's one of these situations everything is so tight together that we can't connect it [Music] now we can take that off and put it all in place then we'll throw another set screw on again just keep it all in still while we're working all right same with the other side twist and cut and there's no good twist ring fitting two rings connect that eyeball it cut it [Music] all right there we go then we have to take our trusty crimpers now these are awesome i think the last time we did one of these copper to pex videos we used a different locking system since then crimp right has come out with a crimping tool that is around forty dollars instead of four hundred so it's finally making something that a homeowner can use so you can use these solid rings to crimp now as a homeowner without a huge investment in your plumbing again this means that you can do your own plumbing and the tools will be a lot cheaper than hiring a plumber now the goal here is to get the ring about a quarter inch away from the fitting all these fittings have these little barbed rings on it so as long as you're making solid contact on one of these rings you're going to be fine but if you aim for the quarter inch rule you're sure to be good at school [Music] you know the scary thing is plumbers today are using exactly the same system that seems like an awful lot of money to play with lego pay for a plumber now don't get me wrong i love my plumber and there's a time and a place to call in a professional but when they make plumbing systems this simple man man oh man you better learn how to do this yourself or you're just throwing away your money now what we're going to do is we're going to take our valves and we're going to put them back in in the closed position which is straight up and down and we will put back our clips and this is a pretty simplest system to install a little bit of a push push that down and then close them into the end of the cradle you probably see it easier on this side i just got to push it in right drop this in there okay we are good to go the last thing to do here of course is we have to put in the shower system just thread this on again go backwards until you feel it sit right nice and gentle in case you're cross threaded there we go i know i mentioned this when i was taking this apart when i'm putting it back on you've got to use a pair of gloves here you're supposed to do this hand tight you can use a wrench just for a quarter turn but hand tight is plenty but wear gloves all of these machine lines here if your hand slips at all it'll just slice you to shreds all around the inside of your palm and i learned that one the hard way all right so now we're at a point where we've got our hot and cold water supplies all crimped on the shutoff valves are back in our cartridge is back together our tub supplies all installed and capped now it's time to do the shower and this is just a pex to pex this is a drop ear connection again put it on your line and tighten it down to the board so i'm just going to eyeball it to the perfect cut add a little bit that'll never hurt wonderful thing about pex is you can always cut it a little bit long because you can bend it in place and then just drop it down get your crimping tool set that to a quarter inch well we now have plumbing now let's go turn the water supply on and double check everything please all right so my son's downstairs turning on the water supply what we do is we get on the phone together so that i can communicate with him if we have any leaks and the first thing we're going to do is with the taps closed we're going to check our solder joint here and our connections leading up to the valve and we have no initial issues can you go full pressure please all right and we're all pressurized okay come on upstairs buddy okay so now here's a great little invention that i get at my plumbing supply store um i haven't seen this in the hardware store before so if you're looking for one you might want to go to a specialty supplier but this is just a simple little cap has a gasket on it an extended pipe so that it's easy to cut wall board and identify things when you're doing your tile work but it just threads into your shower head spout okay it's exactly the same diameter as the fixture itself and you just tighten that on nice and tight now you can test the pressure in the whole line because i'm capped up here with this and i'm capped down here with the solder so now we're going to open up the cold water supply [Music] perfect we're all finished our plumbing rough-in system now the final trim goes on after the tile and that's also where the cartridge gets installed in here the reason they have the shut off valves on this bracket is so that you're not mixing hot water through the cold water line i know that there are some systems out there that come with a test cap that don't have the locks and i've had situations like that where you install your shower before you know it a couple days later the toilet's running hot water while you're busy tiling and such so these are designed to keep the water from flowing until you get the rest of the system put together and that's about all you need to know so if you want to see how this is all finished up i'm sure we'll have some of the finishing trims in the project video later on but uh thanks for watching thumbs up if you like it and comment down below if you've got questions about this system or other systems we're always here to help we answer your questions every day and we'll see you then [Music] so today we're going to be installing the new riobel pro line shower valve on this bad boy here it's a new product on the market the new pro series this is a mixing valve hot cold and then one outlet and then the second outlet now oddly enough this one comes with it's a three-quarter inch line for crimping or it's a half inch piece of male copper here so that you could just put copper line right over top and extend down to a tub or you can add that little stopper there with solder the other option you might want to try is a shark bite but on further inspection we found that when you compress that on there as hard as it can go it doesn't allow for the interior of that valve to actually work and that pops off without any don't use the shark bite on this valve [Music] there's just not quite enough room note to real bell pro if you want to make a modification so that this valve is stem is a little bit longer then we could use our shark bite in this situation the back of this wall is the storage room we'd have access to it that'd be a perfectly legitimate installation so what we're going to do instead is we're going to open up this valve and this is just a temporary thing here we're going to take that out because it's got a rubber gasket on it and we don't want to overheat it so we're going to actually solder on our half inch copper cap okay and so this is how we're going to do it we're going to do that first before we get into any of the construction because we want to give this time to cool off again before we handle it now at the hardware store you can buy a little soldering kit for dummies it's a pretty new stuff comes with solder it comes with flux okay so we're going to just light up our torch really simple you'll hear the gas out of flame all right so here we go so what i do is i just set my torch on the ground we're on concrete if you're over top of any other kind of flooring put some protection down when the solder drips out it's actually quite hot and it can burn your flooring so we're going to scratch out the inside of our cap just to create some grooves there where my solder can sit in and get some flex paste we're gonna just wipe that up and that acid basically sets up that copper so it's nice and clean so we're gonna just heat where we want the solder to go so we don't want to heat that part we want to heat over here because that's where we want the solder to go so we'll put that in the flame now this gas in this system it's a little slower than a mps gas or a plumber's torch an acetylene torch [Music] we want to heat the copper to the point where we heat the copper and the brass when the brass is hot enough over here that the solder melts on there he goes starting to suck it up now i'm just going to push my solder rod right in the side when there's enough left over that it falls out [Music] now we're done we'll just give it a bit of a wipe there we go so when i'm doing a job like this i like to think ahead of myself and i set up i know my water line's coming down my center line is going to be here it's really tight to get bring a water line down and join it over so i'm going to drill a hole bring the water from this side so i'll just lay out my fittings make sure i got everything i need before i get started you have to pay attention here because you need something to mount this diverter on this valve body needs something now so the middle of this plastic line which is basically it tells you anywhere here okay that's where your wall needs to finish so i'm going to set this back three inches two and a half inches plus my wall board and i'll be at three inches finish plus tie i'll be great the way you set this is to pretend you're standing in your shower and you just go grab it boom this high okay and we're gonna go back two and a half inches with my lumber 38 so we're just setting up our 2x4 on the wall now you want to be nice and sturdy so it's not going to twist you don't want to have your valve body moving around inside the wall mark our center line for our valve body right there okay so that's the center line for my valve body all right so we're going to hold this up on that center line that's where we're going to mount it here's my mounting screws right there and there and this is where i need my hole for my water supply okay i would use this bit here it's three quarters it's plenty big enough but because it's so close and so tight i'm gonna give myself a little extra wiggle [Music] using this self-feeding auger bite [Music] so really simple guys we're going to put our copper ring on the pipe and it's nice we got this color coated pex line here we're going to go a quarter inch up and this is this wonderful little tool now you pull these back and it opens it right up okay and then it's a crimper as well so once we get the crimper on position we'll turn the fitting and then squeeze now there's a position in this handle it like really is stiff and then once you get past the point of where it needs to be it just collapses on you so again we can take that off has this wonderful little plate here and it says go or no go it has the different dimensions three eighths three quarters we're using half inch so we're going to just see if that fits perfect you see kneading that's how you measure this little gauge to measure that your crimp is the right size awesome give ourselves that quarter inch okay and quick double check and good to go okay so now we got that one set up here we go so now we have lots of line to play with and we're going to cut it on the short side first get that ring installed and then we'll make this a little bit shorter here we go put in our ring personally i find it easier to connect my plumbing before i mount it [Music] again come by check your fitting with your gauges make sure it goes on nice okay i'm going to uh install this supply line for all these guys on youtube upset about the o-rings that i used before this system i mean yeah great it seems like it works great has a nice compression but this is a two-hand operation and these rings slide up and down off the packs way too easily so you almost need a third hand to operate this thing so this isn't just a simple shower valve so it's not a valve with a shower head what we're putting on here is uh it's adjustable slide bar so we're gonna have our hose attached to the shower head which releases off the slide bar comes down under and over attaches to this drop here here so now we got to get our water supply from here through the other side of the wood and then down to this location i usually like to have it you know somewhere close so that it hangs nice not a real big issue so we gotta drill another hole there we go [Music] here we go [Music] okay now using this testing gauge might seem a little monotonous but this is a great way to find out if you missed locking one of your joints so i got a few flooring screws here i'm going to use that to mount my drop here they're a lot stronger than drywall screws and yet they don't stick out the other side and cause any friction with my line when you're buying a system like a rebel pro a lot of times you'll get the rough-in or the valve body and then a trim kit separate buy from the building stores you'll get it all in the same box the roughing valve comes with this temporary plug very similar to a delta system um and if you don't have the finished kit when you install this and you put it together this is a great temporary fix right you screw that on now you're watertight you can turn the pressure on but now they're sharing that area with the hot in the cold water line and the hot water will win so that heat will travel back up the cold water line and presumably over to the toilet and put hot water in your toilet then the toilet starts to sweat something fierce and then your client calls you up and says how come my toilet is making water all over the floor get the trim kit at the same time and install the finish valve right away when you're done your entire job you might want to open it up again and flush it just to make sure there's no debris in the line so it's operating properly we're going to do is just check the paperwork real quick all right that was warranty finish valve yes it calls for a two installation okay one just slides over the other blah blah blah blah good all right now i'm not guessing it's pretty straightforward actually but i just don't want to guess okay so that lines up like that and this lines up like that these two holes there [Music] okay it says you do finger tight and then a quarter turn with a wrench meet the wrench now all that's left to do is pressurize the lines make sure it's not dripping and we can complete our wall installation and our tiling then we'll come back and put the trims on at the end of the day [Music] what we're using to convert from copper to pex is a shark bite connector and this is what i was mentioning it's like a chinese finger puzzle so the more pressure is on you know instilled in this connection the stronger it holds now we can just generally just stick it right on the copper and shove it down and create the connection but before you do you want to take some sand cloth and clean your fitting just to make sure that you don't have any burrs [Music] because or any solder bumps like this if you don't have a nice smooth connection it will leak just set it on there and then just give it a push now that's locked in place [Music] and set it on nice little twist and a push locked in place now we're going to take our pecs we just want to rough measure up to where our pipe's going to go let me set that in there and push a little bit twist push now both fittings are locked in place they're not never going to come off this is the claim so today we're going to find out if it's true basically what we have here is there's water intake that are designed for pecs that reduces the amount of work that we have to do and then there's two outs one is for the tub and one goes to the shower head it'll work with a physical diverter on the outside on the shower tub typical thing you pull the trigger stops the water backs up comes out the shower head so this is kind of system we're gonna use so what we do is we use this wonderful plumber's paste and we put it on the threads so in order to prep for our valve we need teflon tape we're going to do a few runs on the threads so basically when it comes to plumbing there's outside diameter and inside diameter of the pipes what we're dealing with is all half inch outside diameter and the reason that's important is because when you go shopping they'll be different sizes half inch three quarter and so when you're dealing with most water supply the copper pipes in the house are half inch if it's all modern it's still half inch but it'll be in plastic piping if you go to three quarter supply traditionally that is a much larger volume of water sometimes people use that on the hot water going to their their tub if they have a large volume they want to fill but traditionally half inch is all you get so we're going to put this on here we'll just hand tighten these and then we'll get the wrench out and then we'll finish that off now traditionally it's not really necessary to use teflon end plumber's paste a lot of guys will just use you know just the teflon or just the paste but since it doesn't hurt [Music] i use both unfortunately there's a lot of products manufactured overseas nowadays and then you find in my experience doing warranty work that a lot of times there's not really a problem with anything except for the fact that it's just not manufactured up to snuff and nowadays manufacturers don't seem to worry about quality control coming off the assembly line they just replace something when it doesn't work so with that in mind a little overkill on making sure your compression fittings are nice and secure it's probably a good idea because the net effect of something not working is a flood destroying your ceiling possibly your flooring and all they're going to do is giving you a brand new free 79 fixture who cares about their 79 cents traditionally on the back it'll have markings it'll have cold hot up and down and that tells you which way to install it pretty simple [Music] so we mark the center line on the wall you place your fixture against your 2x4 and use a couple of short screws mount it [Music] now this product here is the sherlock rings blah blah blah blah they're half inch rings which is half inch diameter the outside of the pipe which is the same as the copper has the plastic these rings as we take that we just slide it over the pipe and we place them on our fixture [Music] now we put this ring within a quarter inch of the end that way we're clamping down on one of the rings on the brass okay we want to have pressure in between these rings and that's where you get your fit so we just simply push this on crimp them together this takes a little bit of force make sure you close the tool entirely and then from there all we do is we cut back our water supply where we want it [Music] put on the other rings slide them over the top take our elbow as you can see the advantages to all of this are really quite obvious it's rather quick and when i'm done crimping this together we're finished with the water supply we can test it right away so the tools that we're using here don't require a whole lot of skill just a couple of simple crimps the average homeowner can do this without any difficulty a cutting tool for the pipe a decent ability to measure and you've got modern plumbing the downside is is you have to rely on your ability to crimp this to the exact depth that it holds the water pressure back and not too close not too far away that you get a proper seal and by the looks of it there is room for manufacturer defect that if the crimp ring doesn't grab properly it could break loose so we'll have to wait until we do a water test to find out if it all holds together 14 7 8. [Music] my center the next step here is to install our tub spout [Music] and it operates just the same concept as the other we want to just take our packs measure the depth of it take our pex cutting tool turn as you cut so you don't crush the pipe put your ring on each end first slide one on [Music] now for the shower head extension we're going to put the ring on we're going to attach what we call a drop ear i don't know the story behind why it's called the draw beer i'm sure it's fascinating [Laughter] it is definitely a it's basically just a threaded brass fixture with built-in mounting ports here to put the screws in set up the height that we want measure here with our eyes cut the tube put on the ring stick it on there adjust for our quarter inch [Music] gap here [Music] crimp 14 and seven [Music] eights there we go life is simple so as you can see we have a brand new shower valve with a tub spout and a shower head spout all plastic pipes crimp rings brass fittings sharkbite connection and this has enabled us to convert from an old system to a brand new system without the use of any torch or soldering or any special skills no need to hire a licensed plumber and we're good to go the advantage of this system is that it's safe it holds the water back and anybody can do this so in the end i give sharp sharkbite an a plus for home users the only downside is the cost [Music] if you're going to use this on a regular basis you might want to learn how to do traditional plumbing with a torch but if you're doing a home renovation or a simple upgrade the 10 of fitting is worth the money because 10 20 and i can switch over to plastic plumbing and i don't need to hire a plumber i did in about 20 minutes fantastic all right well thanks for watching that video i know there's a lot of information but hopefully you were able to find something in there that's going to work for you now remember there's not just one right way to do everything there's what's called industry best practice but the best way for you to renovate and do your own diy is where you're comfortable and you're going to get the result that you can go to sleep with so make sure that you check out the playlist that we're creating for this because we're doing a lot of compilation videos now to help take you through the different steps to show you options okay because everybody's a little bit different and we're going to have different skill level so we're just going to help make sure everybody has an option to get the job done right if you like this kind of contact hit the thumbs up love the interaction with you and if you have questions about plumbing or any other kind of renovation questions then feel free to put it in the comments below i'm just gonna answer those every single day and don't forget if you haven't subscribed to this channel then subscribe we have a lot of awesome content coming up really looking forward to seeing in the next video [Music] you

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 2,373,838

Keywords: home renovision, renovation, bathroom renovation, reality renovision, jeff thorman, ottawa design and build, construction, diy renovations, renovations, do it yourself, diy, instructional, hrv, odb, shower valve, copper to pex, copper to brass, torch and solder, solder, torch, easy plumbing, plumbing, diy plumbing, bathroom, bathroom plumbing, crimper, crimp rings, sharkbite

Id: sr_8vF84Y2g

Length: 70min 14sec (4214 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 12 2018