HOW TO GO FROM BROWN TO PLATINUM IN 1 DAY!

[Music] so here i have a client who's sitting in my chair today she has extraordinarily thick hair and even though we were originally booked to do some highlights today she decided that she wanted to do platinum blonde bleach out and go basically as white as she possibly could her roots are a natural level six and down near the ends where you see that reddish tone that has been dyed with a demi permanent color in a professional line i don't know which one but she's done it a few times she's told me so that's something that we're going to have to work around today for all you stylists out there i'm about to give you my tips and tricks for a proper consultation step one current level versus desired level evaluate your guest's current hair versus the color they would like to be in an ideal world then ask yourself how many levels of lift does this require step 2 hair history has your guests had previous chemical services done to their hair all of these types of services should be taken into consideration as they affect the lift and the integrity of the hair henna bleach box color professional color perms and permanent straightening and step three your plan of action determine the best course of action for your scheduled time there are many ways that you can approach the service but which way will be the most efficient and least damaging to your guest hair will you need several appointments to achieve this look is it even possible choosing your lightener for your formulation choosing lightener is just as important as choosing a toner your lightener will determine how many levels of lift you get in one sitting it's also important to keep in mind the integrity of the hair that's being lifted does your bleach contain a bond builder if not are you adding in a bond builder to your bleach developer is extremely important as well i prefer to approach my color correction max blonding services with a low and slow method lower volume developers keep the warmth at bay when lifting the higher you go with the developer the more warmth you'll have to fight during toning this is a double-edged sword as higher developers are more powerful so keep in mind that when you choose a low developer you might not get nine levels of lift depending on the hair type today i chose to use schwarzkopf blond me and 20 volume 20 volume is going to have the power and the longevity to lift my client's hair to the level that i need it to lift i'm also mixing to a creamy consistency similar to a greek yogurt i don't want to make my formulation too dry otherwise it'll give up before i'm even done lifting this is the time lapse of the process you're about to see so hunker in because this is a long process but i'm going to go through literally everything that i can think of to tell you guys on how to do this kind of service tips tricks formulations everything that i know [Music] now this is being done in real time what i like to start with is i pull up my section and i take literally as thin of a piece as i possibly can for each oil the thinner your section is the more saturation you're going to be getting with each of these foils now i'm not trying to like take my time with each of these foils but i am being very careful because every single foil matters if you have some foils that are inconsistent you're gonna see that at the end result they're gonna be orange so for me i personally don't care how much bleach i use i need to make sure that every single foil is being totally totally covered in bleach i'm making sure that my pressure underneath of the foil is also pretty consistent so that i'm able to push the bleach through each hair so you'll see me put my hand underneath of the base here while i'm applying bleach to the ends of her hair this is so that i get proper saturation everywhere and what i'm also doing is after i'm done applying to all the strands i will take more bleach and i will smooth it out so i don't get any weird lines in the hair then i close up my foil and i make sure that i do not zip the bottom of it if you zip the bottom of your foils you're going to get an orange line halfway through your highlight and nobody wants an orange line in their hair you might not be able to see super clearly right here but i'll have another shot where you can see closer to the top of the head but what i'm doing is i'm not applying the bleach right to the scalp and on the root right now that will come later what you need to do first is you need to apply the bleach to the mid lengths and the ends and what that's going to do is that's going to give them more time to lighten up because the roots actually process a whole lot faster and if you've ever watched a brad mondo video you'll know that's because that the heat from the scalp will process the bleach faster putting in all of these foils took me about two and a half hours took me about you know a minute for each foil sometimes a little longer sometimes a little bit shorter you just want to make sure that every foil is consistent and you want to take razor thin pieces with every single foil i'm going to be saying that a lot by the way because it is so important if you don't you will get inconsistencies it's going to look like highlights and low lights but we want our client to have literally like a solid platinum blonde [Music] now i know when i'm applying these mids to ends that i'm going to have to reapply to my ends later because of the demi permanent color that's in there i know that it's only going to lift so much with one sitting and when i take these foils out my plan is to put more bleach on the ends to refresh them and then go into the root and apply onto the root as well the root for her is probably going to apply very quickly because i have bleach everywhere else and it's also going to process very quickly because the heat from her head is pretty high right now especially when you consider the amount of tinfoil and bleach that's all over her head she's like an oven right now she is very very warm this is processing it very quickly but that's the important part of this kind of process is that you do want to make sure your insulation is even everywhere and that you create an even heat field for [Music] everything if you look at her first section that i applied it's kind of bulging out and the bleach is spilling out the side that's something that i expected to happen that's why i didn't fold up every single foil because also that would create more bulk in an area that i want to keep as flat as possible to keep the heat field even so what i'm doing here is i do have a back bib by framar on her to protect her and the cape and the chair from any kind of bleach spillage or residue i don't want any water or moisture or anything getting on her because that's just so uncomfortable and she's already pretty uncomfortable here she's probably got about nine pounds of bleach and foil on the back of her head right now she is pretty uncomfortable if you need to pay attention to how i'm using my brush too sometimes i'll be brushing in a horizontal method and sometimes i'll be brushing in a vertical method the vertical method applies a little bit more pressure to specific areas maybe areas that are a little thicker or areas that have a little bit more of that demi-permanent color that i can see flowing through it that's just so i get extra pressure on those areas so keep that in mind so here are my keys to max blonding number one paper thin sections taking thick sections will only result in inconsistent lifting paper thin sections will allow the lightener to saturate all the way through to the back and lift as many levels as possible in one session number two fresh lightener your bowl should be refreshed every 15 to 20 minutes max lightner starts to process from the moment the developer mixes with the bleach keeping your product fresh will allow for max lifting number three saturation lightener only works when it's wet scraping your lightener over too much hair results in it drying out too fast use a generous amount of lightener in every foil to keep the hair lifting for as long as possible as i'm putting in my last few foils here you can see how thin my sections are and how close i'm getting to the scalp i am going to be putting on the bleach on her scalp later so it doesn't really matter to me too much if it does kind of bleed into that area and create a little bit of some yellowness or orangeness because i'm going to be covering over that after i chose to use the framar foil roll today because it's got a smooth texture and i can choose the length that i want to use for my client's hair because she does have pretty long hair and the reason why i like to use the smooth texture today is so that i don't have to use a little bit of extra bleach to get into those grooves and that the hair sits really flat against itself making a really good insulation level you may be wondering how long i'm going to leave the bleach in you're about to find out processing to max blonde lightner is deceiving most brands of lightner contain purple or blue pigments to help fight brass while the hair is lifting when the lightener is on the hair it looks like the hair is lifted to a much lighter color than reality beware of the real tones that lurk beneath your bleach the root versus the ends roots process faster than the ends that's why i put them on after the mids to ends have had time to process check through the entire length of the foil to make sure it's not just the root that is lifted all the way five minute rule my personal rule of thumb is if it looks like it's done processing give it five more minutes you may be feeling short on time but having to reapply your lightener and go through the whole thing again takes so much longer than five extra minutes to be sure [Music] now that my client has sat for a while i am checking on those last foils that i put in in the first two sections that i did which are in the back i'm unfolding the foil the entire way and it looks like it's done so i am doing a scrape test to see how much the foil has lifted you can see that she's lifted very very well but she still has some that warmth from the mids to the ends because of her old demi-permanent color so what i do need to do is i need to take fresh bleach for areas that are too orange or what i'll be doing is i'll be taking the bleach that's already processed in the foil and shifting it down towards the ends to make sure that they're still hydrated if it's almost there but just not quite enough i do this with every single foil and the reasons why i do this with every single foil is because i also want to check to make sure that there's no mist areas because those areas will be brown and super super obvious even though the bleach is very weak when i've scraped it down to the ends if it keeps the hair moisturized then any tiny bit of lifting that might need to happen until i rinse out is going to still happen but if any areas are still looking pretty orangey to me then i will actually apply new fresh bleach to those areas so that it gets rehydrated and it starts going from the top i tried to make sure that all of my foils laid completely flat but you are going to see one foil that comes up right here where it didn't lay completely flat i had a little bit of the ends fold up and you're gonna see how orange that made the hair look right oh right there oh my gosh you can see that the hair wasn't properly saturated so here i'm kind of almost detangling the hair pulling those areas back down and rehydrating it with brand new 20 volume and bleach because look at how yellow that is compared to everything else ew that's gonna show so much [Music] i'm applying with a back and forth motion here so that you can see that i am spreading open the hair to make sure that every single hair gets properly saturated so that i get maximum lift in this area because it super needs it [Music] now it's time for the roots to be done since the ends have been resaturated and all the foil has been pulled out we're ready to apply those roots [Music] [Applause] i'm using the same formula for my bleach that i used before which is schwarzkopf and 20 volume there is no cool additive into this it is just the same formula as i used before and i don't actually mind that i am overlapping a little bit onto the hair i'm not obviously really trying to but when you overlap a little bit when you're doing your bleach roots this won't really add a lot of extra damage to the hair however if you have a client who comes in with previous bleach roots and she has a very clear line of where her new hair starts and where her bleach ends you have to be very careful not to overlap because that can be the point of breakage so just be careful when you do a root touch up this is almost an easier route touch-up to do because you can just literally slap that bleach on everywhere i do make sure to take super thin sections though even in that top little area if you don't get perfect saturation everywhere you will notice because your toner is going to have areas that it absorbs in more because of porosity issues or you're going to have some really orangey areas or really yellowy areas because of improper saturation so this is not a time to get lazy this is a time to make sure that you do take paper paper thin sections and get everything fully coated keep in mind this is also being sped up this is a long process to do it probably took me about 35 to 40 minutes to actually apply all of her bleach roots because i didn't want to tear at her hair i didn't want to pull too hard do you remember when i was talking about bleeding through a little earlier on the sides that can happen because she's a very flat side of her head so the foils can actually slip a little bit down and reveal the bleach onto areas of the scalp but i am still applying my bleach everywhere because i want to make sure that i don't have any yellow areas i'm also heavily coating onto the hairline area because i want to make sure all of her baby hairs get lifted with each new quadrant of her hair i am getting new bleach because of course i do want to make sure i have the freshest bleach available because as i told you earlier that bleach is developing from the moment you mix it [Music] [Music] and some time has gone by by now and so i am taking a little bit more 20 volume and bleach and i'm mixing it through those ends to give them a little bit more of a kick some of those ends as i told you before i only use the bleach that was still in the foil which had been basically all the way used up so i'm just going through and getting in any of that demi permanent that i can super super saturating and what i'm gonna do here is i'm actually going to be insulating her hair with the plastic wrap that's wrapped around her back so that she can be fully insulated keep nice and warm and those ends can catch up to the root [Music] so here i've used a processing cap over her root area and a processing cap to keep in her ends and now i'm using the framar back bib and i'm flipping it back on itself so i can get triple insulation here keep everything away from the dryness of the air and i've also done a little brad mondo tip where you do mist a little bit of water on the inside of each of those processing caps to make sure everything is nice and moist 20 to 30 minutes have passed and now i'm checking up in her root and that looks like a beautiful lift to me if the color looks like it's the inside of the banana yellow when you pull away the bleach i find that that's a good indication that you're almost ready to go i did let her sit for another five to seven minutes just to make sure here she is in the sink and you can see that her roots are a beautiful raw lift and her ends are a beautiful lift even though they're not quite as light or as yellow they're a little bit more on the orange side but they're still at a level nine the roots are at a level ten so this is what we call an uneven canvas and i'm going to show you a toner formulation to even out that canvas with every single platinum blonde i have i do put in my toners i put both gold and violet tones in both of them it just depends on how much gold they have in their hair now my formulation is written down right here from what i use the most of down to what i use the least of and then my developer where i used one to one for my developer to my toner 9-2-4 is a very very ashy slash beige color 9-1 is like a sandre blue color and 9-5-5 is 9-gold gold gold and violet neutralize each other out creating more of a natural color in between which in this case is going to be more of a white tone creating an even canvas inconsistent lift this guest had come in with virgin roots with multiple sessions of demi-permanent color from her mids to ends while it was a professional color line it did make my task a lot more difficult than having virgin hair her roots were a level 10 and her ends were a very brassy level nine we needed to create a formula that would simultaneously fill correct and tone her hair her end result isn't quite perfect but the toner formulation balanced her out without compromising the light color we had achieved consistent lift this is another guest of mine who had a bleach out done in one session she started out with virgin hair at the top half of her head with an old balayage at the mids to ends i was able to give her a consistent lift because she had no previous color in her hair her roots to ends were a perfect level 10 making it a much easier formula to create we didn't even need to even out her canvas because it had all lifted very evenly because of the formulation i used it actually does look a little deceiving in the sink it looks like her ends are a little bit lighter than her roots but that's what i needed it to do i needed those ends to be neutralized and i needed the roots to be toned so when i do rinse her out you're going to see that most of this color actually drops out and she does look brighter than normal so here is her before again level six root with multiple demi colors halfway down again thank you guys for sticking with me out this long and here is her after this is seven hours later but she agreed and i agreed it was totally worth it we're glad that we did it that night she has a tiny bit of warmth kind of at her ends but i told her if purple conditioner doesn't handle that then she should come back and i can add a little bit more ash to her color the reason why i didn't do that today is because i didn't want to give her bright roots and dark looking ends we want to see how this color oxidizes over the next three days and then she can let me know how she feels about it thank you guys so much for watching please remember to like and subscribe to my videos and let me know if you learned anything today thank you so much

Channel: Bobby Hair Studio

Views: 62,590

Rating: 4.9488816 out of 5

Keywords: Hair, bleach, diy, hairstyle, how to, tutorial, brad mondo, hairdresser, balayage, highlights, color correction, bleach hair, hair tutorial, bobby hair studio, satisfying, educational, black box dye, box dye, hairstylist, redhead, blonde, brunette, tiktok, educator, hair school, free education, Vancouver, Canada, bobby, schwarzkopf, Goldwell, Joico, curls, hair cut, bangs, layers, long layers, curtain bangs, bleach out, balyage, blond, hair education, bleach out diy, diy hair, tik tok

Id: 2hrO_HDX3gI

Length: 19min 21sec (1161 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 06 2021