How to get more power out of your small block Ford part 2

hey welcome back guys so i told you that we were going to get the last video that we're going to get the 289 well here it is i i think we're going to do a little bit of inspection on this engine to see what happened to it see if maybe we can figure out why it was running hot things like that there's a few things that i noticed right off here on this board and that is if we look at the flex plate here when you see this kind of stuff here on the flex plate they took a metal marker to it that is a a ford factory code that's something that that ford did from the factory and usually when you see that that means that this is the original flex plate and i did measure the bore just with a set of dial calipers in here and this is a standard bore engine now i can tell that the heads have been off of it because this is not this is one of those aftermarket composite gaskets it leaves that that crud on the block that is not a ford head gasket so the the heads have been off at least once and i noticed the lifters in here and i got to talk to charlie about this i'm not sure he might have changed this or something but the lifters look brand new i mean they don't even look like they've hardly even run so i'm not sure what that's about also on the intake here instead of having the end gaskets it's just got a big blob of silicone across the back of the front which is pretty typical when you replace an intake manifold this has definitely been off here and also the the the timing chain cover gasket i can tell this is a fel pro gasket so somebody's been into this engine at least they've done a top end and a timing chain or whatever this actually looks like the original ford balancer but i'm not 100 sure on that because it is black so it might have been changed i'm going to get the we'll get the flex plate and the engine plate back here off and i'm going to put this up on a stand so we can flip it over and take a look at it and see see what we got on the lower end and i'm also very curious since this thing was running hot to pull the core plugs the freeze plugs out here and see if those the bottom of that cylinder area is clogged with a bunch of crud because that would definitely cause an overheating problem on one of these engines so i'll get this off and then we'll start looking at that bottom end all right guys so here's a tip before you turn this engine upside down in the shop take it outside and rotate it upside down where you're not worried about a bunch of crud and liquid and antifreeze and everything getting on your shop floor [Applause] that wasn't too bad but you never know what's in that block just let it sit there and drain for a minute and we'll take it back inside and start looking at this lower end i also wanted to show you guys this this is what the pan looks like i mean there's all kinds of pieces of plastic probably from the plastic gear metal pieces look like pieces of piston ring i'm not sure and lots of sludge so yeah this thing has it's seen better days but you know considering how old this car is it's nearly 50 years old so and i think this is the original pen i don't think this pan's ever been off so because of that i can see actually a piece of a plastic gear right there so so let's get into this bottom end and we'll see what else we find here all right so now we're able to take a look at the bottom end of this thing i don't see anything really catastrophic here and the engine turns over real nice uh pretty loose actually pretty typical of something that's got a lot of miles on it one of the things you want to check is move your rods back and forth you guys make sure all of these rods move side to side if they don't that's an indication that something is very wrong you got a spun bearing or something's wrong these rods are all moving also take the crankshaft like this and pull it back and forth okay and make sure you don't got like a ton of end play this end plate feels a little bit excessive all right so now that we get to this point we can just take our piston and rod assemblies out and start inspecting these bearings and see what we got here the torque on the rod nuts for the ford is only like 24 foot-pounds so it doesn't take a whole lot to loosen these up you can use your small impact we'll just pull that cap off and see what's going on here oh that doesn't look too bad now you'll notice in that bearing right there there's a pretty big score mark all the way across that that's usually caused by dirt or debris and you know on the bearings on the fords if you look on the back side they literally have the year stamped on them if they are the original bearings and this is a fomoco ford motor company bearing and the casting on it is c5 which is 1965 but they did use these bearings for several years they might have used a c5 up until 68 or 69 depending on how many they had in stock that does denote that this is the original bearing right from 1968 i believe this car is so if it's a c5 c6 c8 bearing whatever something in that range c stands for the decade 60s so this would be a c5 bearing but they like i said they used them for multiple years and actually that bearing doesn't look too bad there is a few track marks on that crank we're probably going to get the crank cut now hang on to these you want to set them aside so you can see if you have any major problems also guys very important these caps and most of you know this already but these caps are married to this rod they're married to position and location you can't ever mix this cap up with any other rod now the nice thing is a lot of the ford early stuff especially was marked this has a number one on it and if i look on my connecting rod right over here where the cap mates up it actually has a one stamped on it too this one here is a number five which is correct so four numbers there are cylinders one two three four on one bank and then five six seven eight on the other bank so one and five actually go together here so now also on your connecting rods you want to make sure that you put some kind of journal protector or something on these studs so you don't damage that crank i like these here if you have studs this is real handy there's a company called powerhouse and you can look them up on the internet and they have all kinds of engine building tools and stuff these are really cheap i think i paid like 12 bucks for these and i bought like a four pack so they work really well you just put them over the stud like that and that is gonna protect your journal plus it gives you a handle or something to push this connecting rod and piston out just gonna gently man that came out like butter all right so that is definitely a 289 piston so this is a 289 rod now one thing i want to make note of here you see what we got going on here we we are down into the copper here now when this piston is in the engine all the force is pushing down on this rod bearing here and when they start to wear out you start getting into the copper once you're into the copper you got pretty significant bearing wear but again it's not catastrophic the bearing is not spun but we definitely got pretty significant wear on that on that connecting rod bearing and i who knows how many miles this thing is this is the original crank and rods from 68 so it's probably got a bajillion miles on it but honestly i mean this is a standard bore engine and that is a ford motor company piston so that tells me that it's original and man i'll tell you considering the age of this thing i mean it's showing some wear it's definitely got four corner scuffing which means it's got pretty substantial bore wear but nothing catastrophic or crazy it's they actually look pretty decent the rings look decent the rings are not stuck they're all moving so we got a we got a pretty good builder here it just has some normal wear and tear but once we address those problems and bore the cylinder with new pistons and rings and everything this thing will be a real gem so to get the rest of them out you basically just do the same thing guys i'm not going to film every one of these coming out if you really want to see all eight pistons come out like i've said so many times before just rewind what i did with this piston and watch it eight times it's the same exact thing so once i get the rest of these out we'll take a look at the crankshaft and the main bearings and see what we got going on here but so far this looks really promising this this you know nothing is stuck everything looks like it's in pretty good shape so yeah we got a nice little motor here so far okay so i've got the the rods and pistons out you guys and there's something i want you to take a look at so every single one of these rod bearings on the back side so this is the upper bearing that goes up into the rod on the on the back side toward the back of the engine they've all got this heavy wear mark down into the copper this is the the lower bearing the lower bearings don't have it but all of the uppers have that area of copper the thrust bearing is a little loose on this thing the crank is a little bit the cr the thrust has a lot of wear what i think that is is the the crank had excessive thrust it was moving back and forth and it was putting pressure on those bearings especially during the power stroke now easily fixed with a new thrust bearing and and hopefully grind the crank and all that stuff the thing that's more disturbing to me here and this isn't catastrophic but i'm looking at these journals and also if you look on the bearing you can see that brown stuff on there okay that is not copper what that is guys is that is rust and if i look on the crankshaft i see rust embedded in this crank what that tells me is and again this engine had a severe overheating problem there's liquid getting into the oil gallery on this engine somehow i don't know if it was through a head gasket or whatever but there's liquid mixed with this oil there's no way if this oil was just oil alone that these crank journals are going to get rust like that and it's every one of them they all have rust embedded in the surface of those those rod journals and so yeah this crankshaft this engine even though it wasn't the the oil wasn't milky and it wasn't noticeable there was definitely moisture liquid coolant or water or whatever in this crankcase so we we've got uh we've got some kind of a head gasket problem hopefully it's not a cracked block or anything not likely these blocks are pretty stout i'm gonna guess it was probably seeping past a head gasket somewhere and that also would explain the overheating on the engine so those are just a couple of things that i noticed right off on this and this this thrust here this is my thrust bearing i mean man that that thrust it's only supposed to be i don't know five six thousands i've got at least thirty to forty thousands of end play there on this thing so that thrust bearing is wiped hopefully the crank is not bad i'm going to pull this third cap here i want to take a look at that thrust surface and see what's going on here the the number three cap on the ford is your thrust bearing and it just smells like old oil you get you get the caps off of something that i've been on here for nearly 50 years and you get a pretty good order okay so here's my big concern with this crank guys so that's what we're looking at you see how that bearing this is your thrust flange now your thrust flange it has flanges on this bearing and i'll take it out of there we can probably just tap that out that is your thrust cap unlike the other caps it has a machined surface here and it's designed to accept this thrust bearing now i want you to take a good look at this thrust bearing the reason that we have so much end play if you look at this thrust bearing it is absolutely wiped out so so what it's doing is it's allowing the crank and you can even see if you look close there you can see the copper embedded in this crank and hopefully our our thrust surface is not worn too bad we're going to have to mic that but that thrust and that is why on the upper bearing you have the back side of the bearing with that severe wear on it because the crank is being thrust forward and it's putting stress on the back side of those bearings and that's what you end up with so yeah uh boy it's a good thing he decided to do this because this engine uh it was doomed this this is this is catastrophic here or i shouldn't say that let me correct myself this had the potential to be catastrophic and look at all the copper it was just shredding and wiping out those bearings so the nice thing is it actually isn't catastrophic we can save this this is buildable but it was on its way i mean another 10 000 miles and this thing probably would have just shredded this crank so it's a good thing that we caught it when we did but yeah the thrust is wiped out of this thing i hope the crank is good the crank doesn't look like it's severely worn here it looks like the bearing took the brunt of it so we'll have to get a new bearing in there and see what our clearance is if not i mean if this thrust flange on the crank there's a machined area here and here if those are wiped out uh the cranks jump yeah so we're hoping that that doesn't happen all right so i'm gonna get the rest of caps off and then we'll come back and i'll show you exactly what we we got here okay so these are the main bearings you guys very interesting and again that's our thrust bearing you can see all the copper there but if you look at these bearings on the outside edges here there's there's shiny spots where you can see the crank was putting pressure moving back and forth there's a shiny spot this is my number four there's a shiny spot there and here down to the copper on this one here too you got shiny spot on the edges and into the copper the front one it's got right a lot of wear on the front in the back here so that crank was moving back and forth excessively it was causing a lot of stress on those bearings and and pretty much just wiped them out same thing on the rod bearing what's interesting is these bearings here that don't have any copper showing these were the the lower bearings that were in the cap the upper bearing that was in the rod where all the stress is pushing down on it every one of them now the back of the motor is over here so every one of them had this copper on the edge of the bearing where the crank was moving excessively and just wiped out the bearings so that's what happens when you when you have a thrust that goes bad that crank just has too much movement back and forth it just wipes the bearings out but luckily i think the crank is okay i'm gonna mic it and see bearings wear out that's what happens and so we'll take a look at the crankshaft we'll get it out and see what we see where we're at to get the the crank out guys we got to take the front cover off now the the ford balances are not a press fit but they do after a lot of years kind of get stuck on there don't take a hammer and beat on this thing man i know we're probably not going to reuse this old one but still don't don't beat on this put your puller on there and it should come off relatively easy i'm just going to use this little tiny impact this thing only has the capability of about 30 foot pounds so it's really weak because this thing is a not a press fit it should come off relatively easy yeah just pulled right off of there so that is your harmonic balancer and again the 289 302 is externally balanced that's why you get this big old weight here that's that's normal that's par for the course we'll get our front cover off here and take a look at that timing chain there's a couple of bolts on top of this that you need to be aware of don't start prying this thing off just yet make sure you're aware that these bolts up here right up here there's two bolts in this cover up against the block you can see them there you gotta make sure you get those out and you're probably gonna need a half inch wrench because it's really hard to get a socket on those i had a guy last year to bring me a 302 and he had busted the cover here he had it upside down like i did and he forgot about these bolts and he tried to pry it off and just snapped the cover he had to buy a cover covers aren't that expensive but why break stuff and have to buy new ones if you don't have to just be aware that these are here and also if you have the oil pan on just be aware that there are oil pan bolts that go up into the cover too from the bottom we've already got the pan off there it looks like we've got all the bolts out of that you don't have to get crazy and kill it but once you break it loose it should come off of there so wow this cover looks really good and that's a felpro gasket this has been cleaned up and definitely been into and it's got a it's got a brand new timing chain on it i got to talk to charlie i think he probably did this that is definitely not original and that has got very low mileage if this was original that timing chain would be so sloppy you wouldn't believe it and probably have a plastic gear matter of fact we can probably reuse that timing chain now one of the features of the ford block that i mentioned earlier one of the reasons that this design is so good is if you look at the distributor mounting here the distributor mounting is fixed into the block the distributor mounting on some of the other engines and like the small block and big block chevy the distributor goes through the intake manifold so if you put different heads on or if you deck the block or you mill the heads it's going to change where that manifold sits and it's also going to change the mounting point of the distributor sometimes you got to shim this or whatever ford has the distributor mounting fixed into the block i don't ever have to worry about the gears not meshing right here when i put my distributor in where they mesh with the cam it's a really good design you know the engineers were really thinking when they made this all right so now we can turn the engine over you got a fuel pump eccentric here and you got to take this off to get the chain off but we want to turn the engine back over i actually stuck the number three cap back on so just to hold the crank in so it wouldn't jump out on the floor you got an oil slinger on here that's really important you got to make sure that goes back inside because that blocks all excessive oil from getting to the sealed in the front cover so you want to hang on to that and clean it up man i can't believe that okay so look i did not put any kind of a tool on this that cam bolt is finger tight i gotta talk to charlie and see if he ran this after this chain was changed but i literally just finger-tighted that cam bolt that's not good all right well anyway when we put it back together we'll make sure that's true now the chain and gear on this guys a lot of these gears are pressed fit on the ford they're not and just work your gears off and they both come off together there's no press fit here there you go there's your timing chain and gear set and that looks like a newer set so i think we're gonna you wanna hang on to that pin also for the cam i think we're going to reuse this it's in good shape so you grab the crank pull it straight up out of there and that's really all there is to it we're going to mic this out and see how it is but i there's there's some wear on this i think we're definitely going to have to grind the crank we'll deal with that later now we can take a look at the bottom end they don't look too crazy but again you can see that copper on one half of that bearing that thrust force going back and forth it looks like they all pretty much took the hit down here that one actually has some rust embedded in it so we got a couple of different problems here we have liquid in our oil and we also got a thrust bearing that's wiped out now if you take it just kind of tap on that bearing it'll come out and again major wear major wear from the back side so everything was pushing forward the block looks good though none of the mains are wiped out or anything like that the caps look good camshaft and that is definitely got a lot of wear on it that cam got some flat lobes the camshaft has a retaining plate right up here they take a 7 16 socket here so you just want to zap those two bolts out hang on to that bolt those are special bolts you want to keep those and then of course we can just pull our retaining plate off that's your cam retaining plate and uh we're going to set these aside in our in our box that we're putting everything in because we're going to want to reuse what you can do on this camshaft you guys is you can just take a pry bar and just gently get in behind the lobe there just kind of work it out of there they usually come out pretty easy you can just kind of gently work this out we're going to replace the cam and the cam bearings and everything so that is our cam shaft and oh yeah we definitely got some pretty flat lobes here so seeing better days but it's a flat tap but i mean who really cares stock flat tap it now one thing that i see right off here is man there is a lot of rust on those cam bearings that that is not copper that is rust it's just rust embedded in there on that bearing so it definitely had liquid in it we take a look at our cylinders here now really what you want to see is you want to see some really good cross hatch on this thing i do see some of it there is some cross hatch in there but there's a lot of areas of glazing too so it's it's just wore out and also i see um one of the things i notice also wow okay guys so i don't know how you can see this but i mean there is a lot of rust and even some pitting in that cylinder i wanted to show you that that's one of the worst ones there actually both of these two the one next to it also there's a lot of rust and a lot of pitting i'll try not to shine the light directly on it because it the glare is just too much but that that is rust that's just been imprinted with russell water has been running through this thing for a significant amount of time i'm gonna be really curious to see if his other heads that he took off are warped or have cracks in them we haven't really checked those out so that's interesting so but that's actually kind of good news as long as the block's not cracked and i don't think it is because you know the whole thing this kid thing the whole reason this thing came apart is because of this severe overheating problem and um so yeah it looks like we found it and we're going to be able to correct it so those new heads uh good set of head gaskets i'm also going to check the deck surface i mean we'll deck this block if we have to if we have any discrepancies i'll just set it up and and mill the deck surfaces that's not a big issue so all right i'll get it cleaned up and i'll get back with you stay tuned there's more coming

Channel: Myvintageiron7512

Views: 78,883

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Id: V-JGrB_rVrg

Length: 23min 37sec (1417 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 26 2020